What are /r/MusicElectronics' favorite Products & Services?

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BiXPower High Capacity 96Wh (or 26,000mAh) Multi Outputs (5V, 9~12V, 16V/19V/24V) Rechargeable Battery Pack - BiXPower BP90 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097EQTAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ESEQZR3PH8G7X5CXR6EN

The easy solution is a transformer adapter like this.

Worse-case scenario, you can just buy something like this, a 110v to 220v step-up transfomer. The one in that link is pretty heavy duty at 500W, there are smaller/neater ones available so pick whichever one fits your power needs.

I needed something similar for my US-bought amp in the EU, though in that case it was a step-down transformer.

I see no community responses so I am sharing what I found: https://www.amazon.com/RecorderGear-PR200-Bluetooth-Recording-Recorder/dp/B01CIATFB4?tag=p00935-20&ascsubtag=07A2ftwHJ8B2X9Xz0rVWHsA. I am all ears if you are using something similar of „better” known vendor. Many thanks!

I think what you’re looking for is a passive switch. I.e., something like:

https://www.amazon.com/SOLUPEAK-M1-switcher-selector-Independent/dp/B093FT2PT5/

Your local hardware store would also have switches if you wanted to go the diy route — just explain to them what you want to do.

Something like this? This is what I use to connect an iPad to my digital piano when my kids were doing simply piano.

USB Type-C MIDI Cable -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083FRFCCN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Considering the tools at hand, you're on the right track with the compressed air. Problem is, that stuff doesn't get very cold at all. I would go after individual components with freeze spray

I've located many noisy solid state devices using this method.

It's connected via USB, correct? Your USB port might not be providing enough power. I'd try it in a different computer, or try a powered USB hub.

There are many different textbooks titled "circuit analysis" used in EE and EET BS programs. Looked it up many are affordable

https://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Circuit-Analysis-Electronics-Technology/dp/0314933867/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=circuit+analysis+by+West&qid=1636998069&sr=8-1

You can buy replacements like this or you could just splice a new connector on if you're cheap and willing to risk it a bit.

You got it. This is where you'd use the thin straw on the nozzle to put just a few bubbly drops onto one and only one IC, while listening to the sound. Often, when you hit the culprit device it disappears instantly. Then a heat gun can bring it back. I suppose a blow dryer is better than nothing, but a heat gun is another useful tool to have around.

Yes, sounds more like an IC failure. Intermittent problems like this can be difficult to trace without a schematic and oscilloscope, but symptoms like this are often temperature sensitive. We used to be able to buy freeze spray at Radio Shack but now it's online, and worth it. Compressed air/dust cleaner does NOT get cold enough. I've used freeeze spray and a heat gun to track down problems just like this. Narrowing the noise problem down to one chip is great; replacing said IC is another story. Some of the chips are surface mount with hundreds of pins.

Seems to be this one that a friend let me borrow. https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116D2-Amplifier-Independent-Adjustment/dp/B07CP2KDYZ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Nobsound+HiFi+TPA3116D2&qid=1630406510&sr=8-2

Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
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Something like these

https://www.amazon.com/Golvery-Bluetooth-Receiver-Advanced-A2DP/dp/B01MXF6HFS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T04ERT0P80V63GHMKEJX

https://www.amazon.com/Accessory-USA-Adapter-Replacement-Supply/dp/B07GRZ282Q/ref=sr_1_30?crid=QFGX340T7U3B&keywords=5v+200ma+adapter&qid=1551397039&s=gateway&sprefix=5V+200ma%2Celectronics%2C200&sr=8-30#HLCXComparisonWidget_fe...

Wondering if this will work. I'm pretty sure the cap will fit the same, but the fuse. Can I use what comes with it? I've been looking for a 1A 220v fuse and it doesn't seem to be popular.

I do, i crie for teh poor yuth who get tricked into paying more for less! Even if you could find a midi controller for an appropriate price (seriously, 64 keys plus should be under a hundred, not $250+), I implore you, save your money... Buy something that will enrich your life. You are better off drawing in midi notes on the computer (or actually writing music down). It's only marginally better than using your typing keyboard because you get the shape of the keys and some shitty representation of "velocity."

This is the unadulterated truth. Now regardless... If money is your ultimate restricting factor... why the fuck are being so discerning? It sounds like you're best off going on Craigslist and finding the cheapest thing with a keyboard attached and using that, you'll figure out everything I've explained to you on your own. "B-but Lewdite, it needs to have USB to c-c-connect to my compyooter" http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Cable-Converter-Keyboard-Window/dp/B0017H4EBG

Gl hf