What are /r/MustangTech's favorite Products & Services?

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Well currently, the deer I hit last Monday at 55 mph... :( the damage came to $3481. Luckily I have full coverage with a rental car. That rental car? A Chevy cruze. I went from a fun car that got 22 mpg, to a turbo shitbox that gets 28mpg. Driving 400+miles a week. I don't want to get too crazy with the build due to it being my only vehicle and that mileage. Once it's paid off, I might buy another and build this one.

You can buy the tpms sensor tool for $30 and I just do it myself. It has instructions and is a process of turning the switch on and off a couple times and placing the tool at the stem until the horn blows to acknowledge the tpms is reprogrammed. This is what I have. Check compatibility with your vehicle. I had come down in price greatly since I purchased mine!

JDIAG TPMS Sensor Tool, TPMS Relearn Tool for Ford Auto TPMS Reset Sensor Programming Training Tools Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS-19 / 8C2Z-1A203-A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZKJ4TS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_Eb4HFb846QTQA

Actually, I think this is the adapter you need if you've got the Mach460 radio system and are using the factory amps:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-5510-Amplifier-Integration-1986-2000/dp/B0007WRQOO/ref=psdc_10981131_t1_B000271NH0

You're supposed to have a plastic "sub"woofer enclosure mounted under the rear deck that houses the rear woofers and tweeters and the woofer amps mount to the bottom of it. If you have a convertible then you'd have a pair of 5.25" speakers mounted in enclosures in the quarter panels and the amps would be behind the seat.

If the PO added subs and removed them then there's no telling what they've done back there (mine took the enclosure out and sheetmetal screwed the speakers and amps to the rear deck to get more clearance, but at least the wiring was mostly intact.

That Crutchfield adapter is overkill. You want a Metra 70-5514 adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-5514-Wiring-Harness-Bypass/dp/B000271NH0

It doesn't say it's for a Mustang, but I've installed that adapter in 3 94-95 Mustangs and it works. I believe you only need 3 of the 4 adapters. You then splice the wires from the Metra adapter into the one that comes with your aftermarket head unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Starter-SUNPOW-Lithium-Battery-Portable/dp/B08MDYKRBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6_sspa?crid=2UAFXWHQEUO6A&keywords=sunpow+jump+starter&qid=1668523783&sprefix=sunpow+%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9...

I got this one 2 years ago, and it still seems to hold charge well.

If you have amz prime, this 1500A model is only $60, $80 without prime.

There is also a 2000A also under $100.

Check out Energy Suspension?

https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-5123G-19MM-BUSHING/dp/B000CN7BJI/ref=asc\_df\_B000CN7BJI?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920869249902&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hv...

You're probably not going to find an OE replacement unless you go to a junkyard

I would search on amazon for "cigarette lighter cover" or cap. I picked up these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V32H4FV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've never used this stuff on an engine but I've used it on boats quite a bit.

BOSH CHEMICAL Aluma Bright, Aluminum Cleaner and Brightener, 1 Gallon Concentrate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFZTTHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4KR80VZEG50F681B9HX5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm talking about the visible corrosion on the outside. There's not a whole lot you can do short of tanking the block.

This is for fiberglass but I've heard it works on aluminum too but honestly, I wouldn't bother. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Marine-Heavy-Oxidation-Remover/dp/B0000AY4YX/

I looked at your other comment too, and here's what I have.

https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Stabilizer-Protector-Regulator-DC10-36V/dp/B06Y5JHZG2 (not a sponsor, not mine, just a suggestion/example, you do you.)

Get one of these and put it in the power of the radio to ensure it gets 12V constant. It's not liking the spikes past 14V and is shutting itself off to protect itself.

Now, the fact it's going 15+ volts, even if it's at redline, means the regulator in the alternator seems to not be working correctly, but... yeah this is an extreme thing anyway, so maybe it's just the way it is. In any event, 15+ volts over enough time is probably gonna kill your battery due to overcharging, and possibly other items which aren't made for 15+ Volts. Brief though it may be.

Hope that helps. I'm sure I'll be lambasted by others, but hey, that regulator would certainly solve the problem I'm thinkin'.

Flasher relay. Ten bucks on Amazon. And if you get the electronic flasher relay, you’ll be able to upgrade your turn signal bulbs to LED and they won’t flash super fast. I did all my bulbs in LED last year and needed this as well. Easy install, but my factory one (the yellow) refused to come out of the holder. I ultimately unplugged the harness, plugged in the new one, and zip tied it to the old one. Also, if this doesn’t correct your problem, it COULD be a short from a bad wire in the harness. That would be a bigger issue, so start with the easy cheap fix first by replacing the relay. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZRSYX5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another thing, to try and help diagnose other things though, I got the free version of the torque app on my phone along with this obd2 scan tool. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_KSaHub1Q96KSM). It'll let you see the readout of how your car is running plus read any codes. it might help you pin point where your cars problem originates

Not sure if you meant LED bulbs for tail lights and blinkers, but I replaced all mine except headlight and this is what I used. 99 cobra. Fixed everything. XtremeAmazing 5 Pin EP27 FL27 Electronic Flasher Relay for Car Vehicle LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs Hyper Blink Flash Fix https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZRSYX5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HY8HK42DW40XWQF1ZQ7T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have a set of these on my 2000 -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0874VBJX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bzDjFbS0FGEG3

If you decide to buy these, put a need of silicone around the two pieces of plastic all the way around to keep the moisture out.

Newer generation LED bulbs will work but they May not be legal. Brighter halogens will probably be a better choice

You can get a diagnotic tool and plug it into the odb 2 port to get data directly from the computers. At least this way you will know that your tempurature is ok.

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I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

Here is what fits your car.

http://www.amazon.com/Hawk-Performance-HB183F-585-Ceramic-Brake/dp/B000COAZE0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1456340559&vehicle=2002-54-688------------6-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2002%3Aford%3Amustang&keywords=hawk+hps+plus+mustang

Part of it is going to be the cost of the clutch/kit and then the labor..

I just did this a month or so ago and the LUK Clutch kit (clutch/pressure plate/slave/flywheel) ran < $275 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0TWU6

In town, your local shops may charge you $600+ for the same setup. It depends on the shop. There is a shop in town that will actually send people to buy it themselves to help save money (they can't beat the price anyway)...

As for labor, well I don't know what book time is but it took me 3-4 hours to do it on our 2006 v6. I used a lift and it took a little extra time since I replaced the lower grille insert and lubed things while I had it on the lift.

I don't know the actual book time but I'd guess 'around' 4 hours (/u/dougtabor 's link shows 4.4 hours) so out this way, assuming you aren't replacing the clutch master at the same time, it's a $700-$1100 job.

There can be a big variance on parts prices and labor.. Out this way, it's only $80-$100/hour.