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You can add a PWM Speed controller inline with the second battery which would let you control how much extra voltage is applied with a knob. This is the one I used: RioRand 7-70V PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Switch 30A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NQ5G71/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KKTDHRRE44XGY3HJ9ZJC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For my project, I wired two 18v batteries in parallel to double the capacity, then added the above PWM to reduce the voltage until my little one can handle >12v.
I’ve not worked on a board like that before. If you’re savvy and know how to test boards you can repair with a soldering iron. Might be better off redoing the entire system.
You can buy whole kits on Amazon for cheap.
weelye Children Electric Car DIY... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082QXXNG8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm sorry this appears to be a 6v. You would only need to buy a battery that can fit the space you have available. this one is a 6v 3ah. If you wanted more run time you could get a larger AH rated battery like this https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Terminal-product/dp/B00K8V2K8Q/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=6v+9ah&qid=1624467525&sr=8-17
However you would need to make sure it can fit the compartment. The battery measurements are in the description.
If you google the control board # I'd be willing to bet it can handle 12v. If you bought a 12v battery you'd get some added speed.
Really easy you can cheat and buy a kit from duplacolor, or you can diy it with a can of black spray paint for your base coat and then you lay a drawer liner over it and spray a white/gray of your choice over it remove liner and clear coat.
I did it diy as I already had a stack of spray paint and got a liner of Amazon and I think it turned out great
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07ZDG1LV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_PQ0B1Y4P412ZSSFZP4AT
Some of these have a castle but instead of cotter pin.
Power Wheels .437 Retainer Cap 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0158ZK3SA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EW34P9Y282QN3S2AEH8R Make sure it’s the right size for the axle.
Link to the board: Digital Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch Cut Off 12V Over-Discharge Protection Module for 12-36V Lead Acid Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y2PF4P09PXCWJEZ680KF
Cost is about the same but in my opinion more reliable. the RX 30 is 33$
You could use something like this. If I can rewire one of these, ANYONE can.
6 volt dumb cars can run on 18v. Motor/gears will fail but that’s the price you pay for over volting. Kids 6v dump truck has a volt regulator so when the neighbors come over we tune it down to get them comfortable.
PWM Motor Speed Controller 6V 9V 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V DC 6V - 30V Pulse Width Modulation Regulator 8A 180W Stepless Variable Speed/Forward and Reverse Switch DC Speed Regulation (PWM 20A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0851HCX5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6200Z50ZRJFVHXCEMM57?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
IS Icstation Digital Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch Over Discharge Protection Module for 12-36V Lead Acid Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-LCFb36VDD0G, depending on the battery, look at specs to see what is considered the minimum.
Gebildet JD2912 Car Relay with Harness 24V 40A 4 Pin SPST Harness Sockets with Color-labeled Wires for Automotive Truck Van Motorcycle Boat (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P17N3M1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iSWjFb85AVN54
85 and 86 come from the cutoff, 30 direct from the battery, and 87 to the load.
According to the pex size chart, 1/2” would work perfectly as a sleeve
If I were doing it, I’d do these
AFT PRO USA 2-Pack 10" Flat Free Tires Air Less Tires Wheels with 5/8" Center - Solid Tire Wheel for Dolly Hand Truck Cart/All Purpose Utility Tire on Wheel (Orange) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MG72136/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-7OcFbVXVYE4C
I've found a bunch of people using DC motor speed controllers like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NQ5G71/
I got this specific amazon listing from the description of this video:
I feel your pain. I bought a brand of ride-on that had a remote for brakes and steering included but it worked over bluetooth and went out of range way, way to early. Lot's more running and yelling that I thought I would need to do.
When I upgraded to 24v i also wired in one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Voltage-Anti-Theft-Universal-Control/dp/B08K7KDV2X) and it's been working great since I don't really need the steering function anymore. There are a few more that are a little cheaper on ali express but they didn't go past 12v so they wouldn't work for me but if you are staying at 12v you could save another few bucks (the one i linked is only $15 though and definitely worth it in saved blood pressure medicne).
good luck!
Nice, that's a cool ride on. If you're looking for more power/speed then yea you'll need to go up in voltage. When you do that you will most likely have a few other things to upgrade outside of the battery. The motor(s) probably aren't rated past 6 volts and the lights will have the same issue, meaning when you pump more volts through them they might burn up. For the motor(s) you'll need to upgrade to one rated to the voltage you're moving to and for the lights you can either upgrade those as well or run a buck converter in front of them (https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Voltage-Reducer-Regulator-Waterproof/dp/B08MZVXHP5).
You probably don't have an ESC (electronic speed controller) in a 6v ride-on in that price range but you should double check for a box that all the wires run through; that would also likely need to be upgraded to more voltage if you have one.
last point, and it's more related to adding rubber tires, as you add more speed and power you are more likely to break parts like the transmission. It's straightforward but expensive to upgrade those parts on a name brand power wheel at a site like MLToys, but other brands are kind of hit and miss. I'd make sure you have access to repair parts if not upgrade parts just in case. This is amplified when you add rubber tires because on most ride ons the slippery tires are basically a clutch that slips instead of putting all the power into the drivetrain and breaking plastic gears.
so I would start with trying to find out what the motor is rated at and see if it can handle 12v. If it can you should be able to switch to a 12v battery (unplug the lights until you can figure out their voltage too) and see if that's getting you what you need. Good luck!
They aren't fancy or anything. Another thing is I did not solder the connections, but I doubt that could be the problem. The old ones were soldered. Just odd they run at the same speed.
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PL2Q6RT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
In most cases, no it won't work. A 3 wire pedal needs an ESC. A PWM uses a potentiometer. It will not work unless the pedal was specifically made for it, and those are pricey for some reason. I tried to fashion my own pedal for a PWM with a sliding potentiometer, but gave up and got the pedal and ESC from Amazon. It works great now.
This is the controller that will work with this pedal: Alomejor Motor Speed Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z39YSNB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cut the power wheel wiring harness. Strip the red and white wires, place them into speed controller listed below. Then place the wires of the DeWalt battery adapter nto the speed controller. Done. Wire strippers and the two links below is all you need. Will take no longer than 15 minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09GW7527C/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That, an 18V tool battery adapter of your choice, inline fuse (30A), and a brake reduction module from ML toys (https://www.mltoys.com/product-p/brake-reduction.htm)…and all the neighbors kids will be jealous
Controller: 24v 500w Motor Speed Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TDJ384?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It does seem to ramp up but the motors do not move. I am charging my battery to 100% to see if that helps at all.
I'm not seeing the gearboxes for this though, they are the straight ones like this
Would this work: 3" pool backwash hose & plastic riveter?
If it's this one. https://www.amazon.com/Aosom-Electric-Battery-Powered-Adjustable/dp/B09HKT3NBC
Then the pictures show where the High/ Low switches are located. those should be able to up the speed.
There is a 30a model of the first one. I'll get it on the way...possibly before I burn something up.
Just get a 24v steering box with motor? https://www.amazon.com/weelye-Children-Electric-Steering-Replacement/dp/B08WHKYMNK
Steering is especially rough as it's turning two wheels via torque on the steering shaft, lots of resistance.
From a stand still the driver motors only turning one wheel can draw 30+ amps. It wouldn't surprise me that the steering motor can do the same.
It is nowhere near that complex
Update: i picked up a new step down dc to dc
DC Voltage Reducer Converter DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X9XX9J8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It fixed the issue, however lost a bit of power. Not sure if it’s the right amperage but my kid is happy nonetheless
PWM DC Motor Speed Controller,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087QDRWBP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the PWM, I know it doesn't have a low voltage shut off from watching your video. I was willing to sacrifice one of my batteries for my son's pleasure. I have 2, but don't use the tools super often
This from amazon works for me. I'm running 24V on ML's 775s with the upgraded gearboxes. You will all need a hall effect accelerator pedal. Use google translate for the kanji on the ESC; unused pigtails wont affect performance. The ESC has an on/off pigtail that can be snipped and spliced together if you want to skip installing a power switch.
Alternatively (but pointless), you could splice the pwr on/off to your existing accelerator switch(pedal), forego the hall sensor, and splice the esc's accelerator wires. This would however negate any purpose to having the ESC in the first place.
If I remember right, that scooter ESC had a lot of extra connections. I only used pwr in, pwr out, and accelerator. I added a brake pedal seperate from the ESC (never attempted nor do I understand the ESC's braking mechanism), mine just short circuits the motors (using the current produced by the motors as they coast to a stop to apply a reversed direction torque).
If it's this one , https://www.amazon.com/Kid-Trax-Electric-Battery-Control/dp/B086BYGCRV?th=1
I would get the new harness and control board setup. The control board you have may only be setup for 1 drive wheel and splicing wires isn't always ideal.
As Far as the radio If you open it up I'd gander that it's 6v and it frying on 12v was going to happen either way. If you convert to 12v you can easily get a cheap radio from amazon to play some tunes
You can order a weelye rx19 with remote for about 25$ on amazon. You can also order an entire harness including faster gearboxes for about 60$ https://www.amazon.com/weelye-Modified-Complete-Children-Accessories/dp/B07ZMNXSQR/ref=sr_1_9?crid=220EQ4ZLJBB2T&keywords=weelye+rx23+wiring&qid=1661972542&s=toys-and-games&sprefix=weelye+rx+23+wiring%2Ctoys-and-games%2C83&sr=1-9
You may want to go through and check the radio and lights and make sure everything is plugged in. Look for blow fuses or resetting breakers along the way.
I already had the batteries, so I just went with the adapter that worked for me
Power Wheel Adapter for Ridgid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091679PC8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
But you can find an adapter for almost any kind of battery.
The jeep kept doing burnouts so I purchased a speed controller
Power Wheel Adapter for Ridgid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091679PC8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Very simple connection. The speed controller has a +(red or white) and a -(usually always black)
The speed controller tells you exactly we're to connect the battery and the motor wires.
I'll second those on here. If you have any need for a drill, get one. I have that almost exact power wheels. Here's my setup.
Power Wheel Adapter for Kobalt... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W1BSLX5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KOB-24V-2-4-0AH-BATT-110W-CHRGR/1003139096
It's very easy to wire that in too. It's two wires. Good luck!
I would get some Ryobi batteries and an adapter.
The reason I say Ryobi is because they have all the low voltage cutoff circuirtry in the battery to maintain backwards compatibility with their old nicad tools. Also, they're inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Adaptor-Battery-Connector-Robotics-Terminals%EF%BC%89/dp/B09839SHRK
The costs can definitely rack up but I'm telling you, the kids LOVE it. They love turning the lights on and off as much as they like driving it.
If you haven't already feel free to look at my other post linked above that has a list of almost all of the other components I bought and have now stress tested. The lights and switches are great.
Heres the battery cut off switch I used. Its removable. I am now realizing its not listed in my other post. I'll update it!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDYGQJA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Its funny you say that about your son. This whole project started because my son would do the same thing on one of our brand new power wheels. There was no easy way to turn it on or off without disconnecting the batteries which was a pain. Then it spiraled from there.
No it doesn't.
I used this one and its worked really well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZTHRD3G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
The LVC link isnt working but i have a good guess at what it is.
You should just need the Foot Pedal, ESC, and Power tool adapter to make this work. I have a very similar set of parts in a power wheels corvette. All these powered cars are basically the same electrically.
That Pedal and ESC are basically same as the parts I have. They do have a low voltage cut off so you do not need the LVC. However it will be set somewhere between 19.5-20.5V so you may not get much run time until it starts to ramp the power down. Basically they are setup to work with 24V lead acid batteries so the cut off is different than we want with 18V power tool batteries. It can be adjusted by changing a resistor on the PCB inside. The ESC does the same thing as the MSC you listed but its output can be controlled with a pedal. No need for both.
Wiring this up should be
- 18V Adapter -> Battery in on ESC
- Throttle pedal -> ESC input
- On/Off switch or just jumper the key switch on the ESC
- ESC motor -> power wheels battery in (+- where the old battery went
- By pass old pedal switch. I think this was center terminal to outside one that was furthest away
A 2.1Kohm resistor in place of the 1.5K would drop the LVC to ~3V. Math on the stock 1.5K s=is 19.93V
I used this pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T3MDQBV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Plan is to use the built in switch to toggle a relay to give it brakes again. I need to do that mod soon and plan to do a write up to help others out. You could get brakes by repurposing the stock throttle pedal to that job as well. Make it a true two pedal machine.
You could consider a toggle switch on the dash, It'd essentially be a kill switch as it'd break the battery jumper connection and prevent discharge when stored and unplugged.
Bonus points if you use a keyed ignition switch like this. https://www.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWare-Universal-Ignition-4-Position/dp/B07MT2N65B/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_2_2/145-0486858-3716520?pd_rd_w=W5PeM&content-id=amzn1.sym.52496815-75d1-441b-a973-439c7b1bea7c&pf_rd_p=52496815-75d1-441b-a973-439c7b1bea7c...
Wiring looks great I'm not a fan of the connection for the Jumper wire between the batteries but that's just me.
However, are you using the sock chargers? If so, for the love of god please switch it out for a better one. Stock chargers are trash and tend to kill batteries.
Consider this one that can charge 24v https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Maintainer-Desulfator-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B098JVY4B9/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?keywords=24+volt+charger&qid=1660153972&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1
2nd Picture on the amazon listing. Left two terminals are power in (battery, run two wires from the positive and negative of the battery(s) to this area)
Right two are Power out (Clip the ends of the normal battery connection to the car and install on these)
You're looking for 7R gearboxes, Other PW's use the same ones so if you find a PW F150 or Jeep they are basically interchangable.
Plus Ryobi 18V has the LVP cutoff built in, so that saves you about $10 per car.
I'd say for the Ryboi adapters and switches, try AliExpress (but verify, because sometimes Amazon is cheaper anyways). Just go there and type in "rocker switch" (often linking there gets you auto-banned on reddit).
The stuff on Amazon is coming straight from China anyways, Amazon just offers much faster shipping if you're in a hurry.
I was offered one of the quads for free, and it turned out to be just the on-off button. This really nice-clicking illuminated metal button that's $13 on Amazon, cost me under $1 on AliExpress.
Plus the cool thing about the button was I could wire it to either be illuminated only while on, or always illuminated when powered, so the parents could see at a glance if the kids had left the battery in the quad, cause the battery compartment under the seat annoyingly needs a screwdriver.
For Switches you can get them on amazon 5 for about 10$ https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Position-%EF%BC%88Quality-Assurance-Years%EF%BC%89XW-604AB3/dp/B07HHVFS5V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dpdt+rocker+switch&qid=1659443895&sr=8-3
Powerwheels brand generally take 18v really well, this bumps the speed and torque and makes them much better in grass and terrain.
Little 6v quads do great when you put a second gearbox in them and run them at 12v.
https://www.amazon.com/Terminals-Insulated-Connectors-Ratcheting-Crimp/dp/B085ZF124Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=2G3C0Q6FMUAET&keywords=crimper+connector+kit+battery&qid=1659395687&sprefix=crimper+connector+kit+battery%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-8 you need a kit like that usualy it use a 6 volt lead battery and the connector are the second from the last in the kit if there is an electronic store nearby they should have all this
So First to address the previous comments it appears your ride on is 24v in stock form. Hence the 2x 12v batteries connected in series. It could be slow simply because the stock batteries are severely depleted and aren't' giving much in amps or voltage.
To go faster you need to see what the ESC ( Control box) can handle in terms of voltage. If it can handle higher voltage you can use two drill batteries in series to achieve 36v. Depending it may output more wattage.
Other option is to replace the controller with a higher wattage output like this . https://www.amazon.com/Wingsmoto-Controller-Electrical-Scooter-Tricycle/dp/B074TDJ384/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1V60MH0ZZ3CFO&keywords=24v+esc&qid=1659358659&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=24v+esc%2Csporting%2C93&sr=1-9
However that could blow your motor since it would be receiving way more wattage than it's rated for.
Well they were lasting about 20-30 min. They drive them on the fastest setting and mostly on tar and level grass. I had a bunch of kids over and they all piled on them and drove them up a grass hill which ended up burning out the controller (I hope) on the 3 powerwheels I have. I haven't replaced them yet but they worked for about 6 months like that for about 20-30 m using 6 aH batteries - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07519F1HR/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If it was me, I'd use a 12v linear actuator like this to raise and lower the bed. https://www.amazon.com/ECO-LLC-Actuator-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B07L7XCSDW/ref=sr_1_3?c=ts&keywords=Linear%2BMotion%2BActuators&qid=1658330690&s=industrial&sr=1-3&ts_id=350654011&th=1
You would need to plan out two mounting points that would allow the actuator to fully retract and the bed to lay flat, while allowing it to extend and fully tilt the bed.
It's a bit of triangle math using the actuators extended and retracted length as C, and the bed height up and down as B, You just need to find the mount point A.
Use this switch to handle controlling the retracting and extending of the bed. https://www.amazon.com/Starelo-Momentary-Reverse-Polarity-Automatic/dp/B09C1QMPWW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=28D62A4K8FOF&keywords=momentary+dpdt&qid=1658331785&s=industrial&sprefix=momentary+dpdt%2Cindustrial%2C112&sr=1-2-spons&...
One, don't use the stock chargers they are trash. Get a good 24v charger from amazon that is an intelligent charger https://www.amazon.com/lifepo4-charger-Fully-Automatic-Lead-Acid-Desulfator/dp/B09CGYLD8Z/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1DV6NXOJD4ATZ&keywords=24v+charger&qid=1658238838&sprefix=24v+charger%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcn...
Two, 12v batteries can be had on amazon for about 20-30$ a piece. Two in series = 24v. Infact you can pry the top off the old battery and take the plug and put it on the new battery.
I'm not 100% sure the accessories are pulling 24v or just 12v. You could probe them with a voltmeter to confirm. Most lights are only 12v.
Have you looked at getting higher RPM gearboxes? You may be able to get some speed without changing voltage. Amazon has them under the weelye brand. Link below. https://www.amazon.com/weelye-30000RPM-Electric-Children-Accessories/dp/B085LN41TJ
at 36v you will likely be going through Gearboxes 30v should be relatively safe. It's always a dance between speed and reliability. If it keeps breaking then the kid will grow tired of it. I'd jump it to 30v and leave it there with the higher RPM gearboxes.
I don't have any links but there is a facebook group called modified power wheels. They've got the run down on all of it, and it's really active.
When that's to slow spawns are ready for a small electric chain drive atv or go cart.
12v 550 40000RPM from Amazon.
Should be able to increase the speed a lot but the gearbox is plastic so I'll do that when she outgrows it at the risk of breaking it again :P
2x12 12ah would give you more run time.
Honestly you need to get a decent charger though. The stock chargers are usually what causes most of the battery failures/ life degradation.
https://www.amazon.com/SUHU-Battery-Automatic-Automotive-Motorcycle/dp/B08GRRRNCK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=28BG58GM8WICI&keywords=24v+charger&qid=1655902852&sprefix=24v+charger%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-10
This gives you the board and remote as a pair. It should handle 12v with out any problems
This is a replacement harness, with motors and all the things But you can just replace the board.https://www.amazon.com/weelye-Modified-Complete-Children-Accessories/dp/B07ZMNXSQR/ref=sr_1_8?crid=260YNX7U5LWJE&keywords=weelye+12v&qid=1654623532&sprefix=weelye+12v%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-8
So if you're looking to change 20v to 12v then you need a buck converter capable of 30a https://www.amazon.com/VOLRANTISE-Regulator-Converter-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B09X1ZGX9H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3M7ZCJHVCJQYK&keywords=buck+converter+12v+30a&qid=1654611468&sprefix=buck+converter+12v+30a%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-1-spons&am...
If you just want something to reduce the speed then you need a PWM like this. https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Stepless-Adjustable-Potentiometer-Forward-Brake-Reverse/dp/B089273KVZ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=RPL3713EFASE&keywords=PWM%2Bdc%2Bmotor&qid=1654611400&sprefix=pwm%2Bdc%2Bmotor%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-4&th=1
The difference is, A Buck converter actually reduces the voltage down. A PWM doesn't reduce the voltage it pulses the voltage to create a specific speed setting.
So I'll assume you have Dewalt based power tools given your comment on 20v. There are 2 issues that will arise for you.
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- It has a controller which uses a 12v based system. Any voltage over 14v will fry the electronics and can cause either a fire or out of control functioning. For me, adding 24v to a 12v controlled car caused it to go into full throttle until he hit a tree and I could pull the battery cable... All this while the radio was smoking.
​
- You will need to cut the original battery cables and wire in your own connector. If you're not comfortable with that go on Facebook, find a cheap old one, and practice on that. or locate a connector identical to the current battery. You can DM me and I can help out.
​
Now 20v is an odd number in the Toy Ride on market but you do have options. You could keep it at 12v but still use a 20v battery using this setup:
This Dewalt Adapter (specifically because it has a fuse in line already!)
This stepdown converter (which also has quick connects)
​
Both items together will allow you to use a 20v power tool battery but not loose functionality.
To boost power is a whole different story. If you want to give it 20v straight you're going to need to loose the controller. If you want to keep the controller you have to go to 24v and buy a new controller unit. If you want the info on that, let me know.
Ok so motors are good, thats decent really limits it down to the board. and it's connections. At this point it'd be prudent to open the box and see if there are any burn connections or blow caps.
The pedal basically is a momentary switch no real power pass's through.
F and R will have different wires as its telling the board to use a different relay for F and R.
H/L is the same but tells it how (series vs parallel) to send the power through the relay hence the same coloring.
To be honest you could tear your hair out fixing it or get a new harness for about 50$ https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Harness-Control-Children-Accessories/dp/B08Q4K8F3N/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3UPI33PMSRN0V&keywords=weelye+12v+wiring&qid=1654465932&sprefix=weelye+12v+wiring%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-6
I run mine like this 18V battery > voltage regulator > Pre existing shift nob (didnt want to lose reverse) > stock motors
I think you have too many unnecessary components. Pretty much anything under 20volts that doesn't have high traction tires or excessive strain on the motor (Off road driving) isnt going to need all that.
This is the voltage regulator I use but its really just used to stop my younger kid from getting whip lash from the acceleration. Setting it to 60% is the same as turning it back to 12V standard.
The quick write up is a PWM pulses the given voltage, a Buck steps the voltage down.
To use that 40v and convert the voltage down to 12v you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/360W-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Waterproof/dp/B07J274LZD/ref=sr_1_17?crid=2A702L5QCMQ89&keywords=40v+to+12v+converter&qid=1653488729&sprefix=40v+to+12v%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-17 Here's the negative, 30a is the max draw and they aren't well known for being able to provide that constantly.
My personal opinion but the added components and decreased reliability are not beneficial for the charging ease. Especially if you're trying to keep the RC Functions.
If you want to keep RC functions and increase speed you can change the weelye controller out for a 24v and put two SLA in series. The control board will be rated to handle the voltage and you should retain all other functions. This is the most reliable in my opinion.
The next most reliable is to ditch RC functions and create your own wiring harness similiar to a Power Wheels one, that relies on pedal and shifter switches that can handle 18-24 volts easily. I usually take a old power wheels harness and graft it onto the kids ride on.
At some point the need for speed will exceed all of the stock capabilities you have and it will have to be custom.
I'm not aware of a drop-in-fit upgrade for that model but if you're handy and creative then you could make something like this fit. It'll likely take some work to make it fit.
For the sake of longevity you should replace the gas pedal with a hall-effect sensor switch like this
The normal gas pedal is just an on-off switch so when it gets pressed then 100% of the power goes to the motor. With the hall-effect switch then he will be able to ease onto the power and be less likely to strip out the gears.
If you don't want to spend as much as the upgraded gearboxes cost, then the next best thing would be to contact the manufacturer and try to get standard replacement gearboxes, and then install the hall effect pedal. Easing onto the power might be enough to make the gears last longer.
I'd use something like a lawnmower key switch, Most of the keys are universal and easily replaceable.
The stock battery is just 2 x 12v 8ah. You could get 2 x 12v 12ah Batteries off amazon for about 55$. Just take the top off the old battery and scavenge the wiring from it.
https://www.amazon.com/ML12-12-Battery-Terminal-Mighty-Product/dp/B088TVX8MK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3753A12BAHFZ9&keywords=12v%2B12ah&qid=1652790809&sprefix=12v12ah%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-5&th=1
I'd recommend getting a good 24v charger to replace the stock one as they are usually crap and kill batteries early, and take forever to recharge.
To be honest It'd be easier to just get a larger Ah SLA battery and a decent charger. Especially if you aren't looking for more speed
Using these types of batteries just adds degrees of complexity that In my opinion leave more points for failure.
Even upping the speed by increasing voltage is far easier by adding a 6v battery in series to achieve 18v.
To answer the question you need a converter than can handle 30 amp minimum, but up to 40a as depending on weight and terrain the motors can draw over 30a.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01LYK6G2Y/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1M76GD94KMJYW&keywords=dc+buck+converter+12v+30a&qid=1652728750&sprefix=dc+buck+converter+12v30a%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-5
I just ordered this set for ours. 2 gear boxes with motors. Probably junk
Peg Perego Official RZR/Gator 12V Motor Gearbox Replacement Kit White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094XDWD7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5SC6SZNG1KS31HYC9V36
Here are the ones I have currently that work well. Low Voltage Cutoff
Yep found that! Looks like the controller is an FY 12v 27m. I found a controller/remote pair and just the remote on Amazon so I ordered both to try. Any trick to pairing the remote? This is the one I found online: weelye 27mhz Remote Control Remote Controller Accessory for Kids Power Wheels RC Car Children's Electric Ride on Toys Replacement Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6CXNBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NYVRQXVCRPA0SV9D42SZ
DC Voltage Reducer Converter DC 8V-40V to 12V 3A 36W Automatic Step Down Up Voltage Regulator Power Converter Waterproof Module Transformer for Golf Cart Club Car https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WY4P7W8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_Y6SKNVAWR7DM03B5E27D
May work
This is the conroller I'm using. I have one running on a jeep for the last two years and it runs great with my ryobi 18v, so I just got another one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083J3WMND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The name for the swtiches is Dual Pole Double Throw (DPDT) 20a rating
Just get yourself a PWM. I used this on 2 vehicles.
PWM DC10-55V 12V 24V 36V 48V 60A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086XJFXV3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Assume your drill battery is about 20v so run it at about 30% to get about 6V and slowly ramp it up as you see fit. Inline fuse is a must.
by converted you're talking about putting something like 18v drill batteries in yea? In my experience it's more common for the plastic inside gearbox to give up first but that's just anecdotal, frying motors by exceeding their designed voltage is pretty common. You can either go back to the old batteries or drop the voltage down via (https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-7-80V-Motor-Controller-Switch/dp/B071NQ5G71), or you can follow the rest of us down the rabbit hole and start upgrading the other components (https://www.mltoys.com/Power-Wheels-F150-and-Ford-Raptor-Upgrades-s/148.htm).
The light bar is screwed in the roof. Then you need to pop out the lenses. I used a sandpaper but on a dremel to get the openings to size to pop the lights in. The lights I used in there (https://www.amazon.com/KEING-Waterproof-Trailer-Caravan-Warranty/dp/B08XVY9V8D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2NNUPQBWFTYXO&keywords=led+round+marker+white&qid=1648791238&sprefix=led+round+marker+white%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-3 ) will take up to 12v, but I’m just using a 9v. For a farm you might be better off just replacing that whole bar with an actual light bar. https://www.amazon.com/Zmoon-Light-Signal-8000lm-Waterproof/dp/B07SWZ1LMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=2QM57EZF2EN2R&keywords=led+light+bar&qid=1648791348&sprefix=led+light+bar%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-11#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
Sorry I guess I meant if I keep the stock battery and use this charger, so I need to pop open the seat to access the battery directly every time ?
NOCO GENIUS1, 1-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Portable Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W46BX31/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_2HP1F55T4E4AZFKSGB96
No, not without upgrading to a 24v controller and harness. If you just want better battery life buy a higher ah 12v battery and replace the stock on. It'll cost you about 25-30$ for a 12v12ah and will net you about an hour run time
ExpertPower 12 Volt 12 Ah Rechargeable Battery with F2 Terminals || EXP12120 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_71589R9Y46XQSBQB12K9
While you're at it get rid of the stock charger as well as they are trash and kill batteries. Find a decent battery charger that does intelligent charging ($25-40)
NOCO GENIUS1, 1-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Portable Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07W46BX31/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7154PPMBZV7GB613CFZK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd gander you have a bad charger and the battery is probably OK. If you have a. Automotive one you can use that to charge it and see if it comes back.
You can get a complete 24v wiring harness from Amazon for about 45$ . https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08PL2NRZL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YQHG1S9SA8G4PZJ2CBS5
If it's looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Control-Suspension/dp/B07YC4VCYH/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=jeep+rubicon+power+wheels&qid=1647547677&sr=8-6
Then you should tread lightly as this model uses a control board. Some people have luck with it surviving 18v, but normally anything over 16v will let out the magic smoke of the control board.
If you're hell bent on 24v you will need to replace the Control board with a 24v model. They can be purchased on Amazon (Rx30). https://www.amazon.com/weelye-Bluetooth-Controller-Accessories-Replacement/dp/B07N1S8KWK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=29H387HS9GCX8&keywords=weelye+rx32&qid=1647547820&sprefix=weelye+rx32%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-2
The other issue is it'll be sending 24v to the steering motor (rated at 12v) stock so remote steering will be touchy.
I believe the accessories pins send 12v but I'm not 100% on that. I don't think anyone has had issues when upgrading to a 24 controller and the stock accessories not working
Quick, easy, and cheap would be this:
I had one of these. Other than arriving dented and scratched it worked just fine. Though I was moderating only 18v on a 12v system. I ended up just removing it since it didn’t seem necessary since our ride-on had low/high speed shifter which brings it down to a manageable speed even on 18v. I did also use PEMENOL Motor Speed Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WR4KBMF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and it worked well to reduce the speed, but I really got it for the “soft start” feature and could never figure out how it worked, so I removed it. It did seem to be of quality construction.
I used MLToys for the (white) headlights and (red) taillights. I also added the voltage reduction module. https://www.mltoys.com/Power-Wheels-LED-Lighting-Kit-p/led-lighting-kit.htm Amazon for the other white lights: KEING 10 Pack Sealed Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XVY9V8D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
DC 24v to DC 12v Step Down 30A 360W Heavy Duty Truck Car Power Supply Adapter Converter Reducer Regulator for Auto Car Truck Vehicle Boat Solar System etc.(DC15-40V Inputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JAIC7OO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_P6FAD3R5480ZNYQDVPWB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m a total noob to this stuff but could I still use the converter you linked with my m18 batteries?
Basically can I use that 24v to 12v converter or should I get a 18v to 12v converter? Like this one?
You can feed more than 12v to the steering motor. Mine has held up with 18v-20v for about 50 hours and I don't see there being any issues in the future. Because the motor is used so rarely, it won't heat up too much.
You do not want to send more than 12v through that harness you bought. It will fry the controller instantly. Don't try to convert the ~18v to 12v with a voltage converter that has a dial on it. All it takes is one accidental increase and the board will fry. Use 24v to 12v converter units that only have ports for wires. Something like this.
You will want a 24v wiring harness. Like this.
The wires are a higher gauge and copper. All of the fittings seem to be done better than the stock 12v wiring harness that I got.
Make sure you use the switches and buttons that come with the harness, many of the 12v buttons will fry with more volts fed through them.
I've learned these lessons through my mistakes, not by someone's word online.
Noco is a brand alot of people use. This one is 1amp which is okay but not the fastest. 29$
I'd recommend the 2amp version for about 50$.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W6B987F?ref=emc_p_m_5_i
There are cheaper one's that do the same features but these are good examples.
First things first, let the kid get comfortable at 12v. Next I'd jump to 18v (12v +6v) but before that you need to determine if this has a control board for the lights and sounds. You may need to trace that and make sure it's not also controlling the motors.
If its not controlling the motors you need to isolate that wiring to use a step down (buck Converter) from 24v to 12v so you don't lose functionality of lights and sounds.
If it is controlling the motors. Then it's time to replace it with a 24v board like the weelye Rx30.
Many people like to use drill batteries and if you have Ryobi batteries they are an easy swap as the have a low voltage cutoff built in. Drill battery adapters can be had for about 15$
So you can get a bigger battery for more run time. Generally 12v 12ah SLA batteries are a solid 1 hr runtime. They can be found on amazon for about 30$. You may need to trim or get creative in the placement of the battery and tie down method. It appears the first linked pic has a tray for a 12ah battery.
Aslong as you aren't going over 12-14v then everything will work as normal.
The best thing you can do for run time and battery longevity is to get a good 12v charger. They can be had for about 20-30$ and will help charge faster, and extend the life of your batteries.
Example - https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W6B987F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3UZ5X63ZX7M8I&keywords=12v+battery+charger+2amp&qid=1642783445&sprefix=12v+battery+charger+2a%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-3 You can get a cheaper one if you want but 1-2amps output is ideal.
Last part is running them in Parallel will give you more run time. but your 8AH will deplete faster due to age and size than a newer 12ah battery. My recommendation is to run matching sizes in parallel or run them independently and just swap them out.
yep, copied wrong link... heres the 24v one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089VRXB2W
With the 2 new batteries looks like it would be ~$115 upgrade. I think I might hold out until we do a few runs and see how long it lasts to see if it's really worth it lol.
I was just looking at a few, might go with this 24v/4amp one so I can charge both at the same time given they will be connected in series anyways.
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Battery-Automatic-Motorcycle-YONHAN/dp/B089VRXB2W
Love the idea of running some wires to the back for easy access charging! Def going to implement something like that!
Thanks again for all the great ideas!
Right now I use 1x12v 12ah and 1x6v 12ah batteries and 2 of these chargers. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BM3B-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6
I ran a 4 flat trailer plug from the batteries to the rear of the vehicle and just adapted the chargers to connect that way.
You can get cheaper but this is a solid choice. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2X2-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B08F37P7H3/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2KN3OVN70QSQ8&keywords=multiple+12v+charger&qid=1642702217&s=automotive&sprefix=multiple+12v+charger%2Cautomotive%2C108&am...
One is set for 12v
Using this 24v board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1S8KWK (also have 24v motor
Is there one that can go past 24v?🙄 Lol
The LVP I have it's rated for 12-36v, so I thought that would be good enough🤷🏻♂️https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GQSDQCC
That speed controller definitely looks more beefy than what I got, but have no idea how I would integrate that into my setup lol. I'll see if I can find some info on it. Thanks for the tips!
The switch is Forward, Off, Reverse. First Issue - Is this going to the stock control board of the ride on? If so sending 18-20v to a stock 12v board will blow it. Not a matter of "if" but when.
Second issue those Low Voltage protections are probably the next item to have an issue, Unless they are rated for 30-40amps they will fail. Best practice is to have the LVC operate a relay that handles the load
That Speed Controller is known to not handle the voltage or amperage very well. I'd say it's your problem.
With a hall effect pedal will serve you better.
So I thought I got everything hooked up and working, but got some funky results when I tested the speed controller from the CPU input, before putting everything back together. (Amateur mistake thinking I will ever be "done" 😂)
So as you see at 6% I barley get any power to the wheels, practically off. But at 7% it jumps up to the current max of of ~19v.
After seeing this, my wife then told me come to bed. 😒 So I didn't get the chance to test the output right from the speed controller, swap it out for another one I have, or literally do any troubleshooting.
So I thought I would share it with you guys to see if you can guess what's going on until I can get back to it tomorrow night, then post what (hopefully) fixes it.
What's your guess?? 🤔🤔
The speed controller for reference: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086XJFXV3/
Simplified version of my wiring diagram (no LEDs): https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1HwyjO794lQXco6jCTUN2ZcUwgYb-qtUzciJaRa4spOI/edit?usp=sharing
I had the same issue actually. My problem for me was the controller had cables going to the wrong port. We have different parts, but the way I fixed the issue was by ordering a complete new wiring harness. Like this.
>That way you're not rushing against time trying to get all the glue out in a big hurry.
Just ordered some of this epoxy "made for plastics".
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EU5ZMK
Wow I didnt know they made glue sticks just for plastics like that. I'll have to give that a try if the epoxy doesnt work out. Thanks!
This is my speed controller/receiver. Cheap and works great! RX30 24V Control Box Receiver Match 2.4G Bluetooth Remote Control,24V Mainboard Motherboad Accessories Children Electric Ride On Car Replacement Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QTD7F6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AF0YGZHX5P0J1ZPTRWQD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1