What are
/r/RVLiving's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/RVLiving:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/RVLiving:
AddToAny
Facebook Marketplace
Calendly
Swagbucks
Roadtrippers
Hotels.com
CoPilot
Inoreader
Windy
DD-WRT
Startpage
Roku
Zapier
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/RVLiving:
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/RVLiving:
The most popular reviews in /r/RVLiving:
Another vote for zero-g ... blue one for potable water needs, black for all other hose related duties.
Maybe use a tension rod system (floor to ceiling) vs drilling.
Like this: Prince Hanger, Multipurpose Shelf, Holds 20kg per Shelf, Heavy Duty 32mm Vertical Pole, Clothes Organizer, Wire Shelves, Ivory, PHUS-0041, Made in Korea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BKP2PC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F390YZ21SNCD1ZXRTGPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You should also try a pressure wand like this https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0184VP-Master-Blaster-Nozzle/dp/B000BGHYDO/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rv+black+tank+wand&qid=1629683903&sr=8-4.
The gurgle/ bubble is usually indicates the tank is full to the vent opening in the tank or the vent is otherwise clogged. So gas cannot escape until you flush then it bubbles up thru the toilet. You didnt say if you move but if you do put some Dawn detergent and a 10 lb bag of ice down the toilet and drive for a while. The ice can act as an abrasive and help clean the inside of the tank. Also good advice on getting a clear sewer elbow so you can see when you’re getting clear water out of the tank. As someone else said use the tank flush inlet or use the wand and/or a water hose to refill and flush til it’s clean. Good luck!
Since OP didn’t, here is the link
Cq acrylic Slim Plastic Trash Can 1.6 Gallon,Trash can with Toilet Brush Holder,6 Liter Garbage Can with Press Top Lid,White Rectangular Modern Waste Can for Bathroom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089RBPCZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_STWB2SZDTZRJE68AQ5YF
Depending on how off grid you are, this or something like this was magic for us. Filling our fresh water tank wasn’t an easy thing, but this helped immensely. But it’s only helpful if you’re close enough to water to fill the 5gal buddies. Good luck and I hope you enjoy the freedom!
For those that want to get this monitor, you can save about $25 by getting the exact same product but with a different brand slapped on it: https://www.amazon.com/AiLi-Programmable-10V-120V-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B081SXH9TK/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=renogy+battery+monitor&qid=1610920187&sr=8-7
Marketplace didn't turn up much, but there's this. Graphics are different, but that's not a hard thing to do. Year's off too, but it's not hard to swap a vin either. It's in Knoxville, which isn't too far from where it was stolen. Might be worth a look?
In addition to what everyone else has said, get yourself some solar motion lights.
I’ve used these in plenty of places and they are very bright: HMCITY Solar Lights Outdoor 120... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZSC6TNB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Link below! We got them as a wedding gift, so they are a little pricier than something i would normally recommend. Saying that though, these indestructible little jars are great. Highly recommend!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LC84XH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_68A3GPS1PXTGKYBVR12H
Our baby girl was born in our trailer in January.
Your list looks good, I can't recommend the following two mama items enough. They've made my wife's life so much better than the previous two babies.
My wife wears the catchers to bed and during the day and there are no more leaks or waking up wet.
They make a tee connection that goes right on the end of the propane cylinder connection before the pigtail that comes with a good length of HP hose (I want to say 25'?) Most RV parts dept should have them or know what you're talking about if you go in. I'd just do that and not over think it.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NHLG6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_KHNNBVJSKY7PRNK37V2X?psc=1
That and then just buy whatever length of HP hose you need
Thanks to your digging, I ordered these: - Electop Car Charger Power Cigarette Lighter Female Socket Cable Plug Adapter - 1/4 Inch Jack, 6.35mm Mono Male Plug for Guitar/Speaker/Microphone Cable That can be Solderless Screw
Well that was easy. Those are called rv bunk light sockets. And yes, you can use a standard guitar amp male connector.
Read the question and reply for this bunk socket on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Lumitronics-RV-Bunk-Light-Socket/dp/B07MDXVWM2
Here's another link with info for you. https://www.etrailer.com/question-309172.html
The amount of time/effort to build the adjustable stand (added with cost of materials), you could probably just buy folding adjustable legs that are meant for it. In the end you will have a tried and true and much cleaner setup.
$34.98 and probably 5 minutes to install.
Renogy Adjustable Solar Panel Tilt Mount Brackets, with Foldable Tilt Legs on any Flat Surface for Off-Grid Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSKFWK7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8321WNS20ZB7DN4CFK9K
If you have a Costco that's where I get mine. Also get a tire pressure monitor for the trailer tires. Could save you from a lot of damage. I always see camper trailers with tore up wheel wells, it's difficult to know what's going on back there doing 65 mph.
I put this on my door using the existing screws to hold the Velcro so it would be removable. I’ve never removed it! Sun Shield 16 x 24" Door Window... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP9GYPF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought these to put up in my vents from the inside.
Camco RV Vent Insulator And Skylight Cover with Reflective Surface, Fits Standard 14" RV Vents (45192) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6QX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R0CSKY6QK45S8TD7QM2Y
Arcturus Heavy Duty Survival Blanket - Insulated Thermal Reflective Tarp - 60" x 82". All-Weather, Reusable Emergency Blanket for Car or Camping. Thermal Barrier Blocks Infrared Signature https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6NC8XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S4PG98995FNQ3S8WDTCS
I used these when I had a hybrid trailer. Attached with some binder clips to the canvas. Worked pretty well for keeping the bunks cooler.
Got me a tankless one off of Amazon and I will never look back lol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BWN8E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_86P484432BEMD43WKETR
The component held on by the four bolts can be replaced without replacing the entire valve assembly:
Terrible idea to look used. They aren’t that expensive new and they’re super easy to install.we bought two of these and they worked great. Looks like the price has gone up a bit.
Don’t get used! You have no idea what life is left on it.
I'm not sure what generators you should use, but I would make sure you have very good UPS systems between the computers and the generators.
This one is considered good:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM
You may want to try the BAL leveler. We use it for our pop up and love it! It handles lifting/leveling, then we use the stabilizing jacks to, well, stabilize. Our instruction manual stated not to use the stabilizers to lift the trailer, as they can break.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SlZiFb2413RGG
I had a clog in my lower 4" pipe right before the valve, I used this poured in about half the bottle and let it sit for 3 days. Drove back to the dump station and most flowed out. Hooked up back flush hose and the rest came out. Poured in the second half of the bottle sat for a week and then totally flushed the tank. Was surprised how much was still in there. I use about a half a bottle everytime I move the camper now to clean it out. But I am also fulltime & live alone.
They make spraying wands you can stick down and break up the clog with. It’s a pretty shitty job.
Camco RV Flexible Swivel Stik with Shutoff Valve- Creates Powerful Cleaning Action that Dislodges and Flushes Stubborn Waste Deposits and Combats Odors (40074) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX7YC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3H8eFb3R76R61
Happy Campers! You can be like me and buy the small bottle to try it out first, but you'll be ordering the big tub pretty much immediately once you see how well that stuff works.
Here's my comment about it from a few days ago when someone last asked on a related topic: "I wasn't really sure I believed it would work so well myself, but I picked some up on the recommendations and had it in my rig for when I ran out of the previous box of throw in pack things I had. On my last trip out, in 100F temperatures the black tank smelled SO bad that in desperation I added some of the happy camper powder as well, as the throw in packs just weren't working in the heat. Within 24 hours, the really bad part of the smell was gone completely and all that remained for the rest of the trip was a smell more reminiscent of dirt than poo. Long story short, it actually DID work as well as people say. I'm definitely a convert now, and I'll be ordering the giant tub next time."
An an update, that earthy "dirt" smell went away a couple days afterward too, though it wasn't nearly as objectionable as the smell that was cause for the desperate pitching in of the extra tank treatment to start with.
edit: Here's an amazon link in case you don't know what Happy Campers is: https://www.amazon.com/Happy-Campers-Organic-Holding-Treatment/dp/B007S0LDME
They make mesh wiring you can secure to the outside of the various vents on your rig.
For example: https://smile.amazon.com/TOODOO-Flying-Furnace-Stainless-Installation/dp/B07F2L4QJM
They make them to fit most any size vent.
I would probably get a generator and/or a wind turbine to help top the batteries off
I used to do car alarms for years when I was a younger in the 90s and I can tell you all about 12v security systems. For an RV, I would use just a "squeeler with a motion sensor" thats 12v and uses keychain remotes. Let me see what they have these days on Amazon.
This is basic motion with keychain remote and SOS panic button. We currently use just a keypad motion alarm with NO motion sensing but it has no panic, so if you want to scare off someone while you sleeping then you have to use your gun or a pipe or bat instead. The point is to not let it get that far, so I recommend this.
What you want is something simple, either keypad set or key or remote. Do not get a full alarm that has door and window sensors, it will never stay working and you will always be changing batteries. Simple is best when it comes to security.
This is the one I bought and I have had a few of them now. This one is the best and let me explain why. First it has both indoor and outdoor and weather prediction but MOST IMPORTANTLY, its USB on the back. It comes with a plug in USB charger like for cell phones but because RV's are 12volts and have cigarette lighter adapters and now USB ports everywhere it will natively run off the batteries in the RV, so they DO NOT have to be on Shore power and the display is on all the time if you want WITHOUT AC shore power. Most require Shore power to power the color displays, this one does not and you get al the features off a USB port on the RV. Also it has 5 brightness levels so its NOT overpowering at night lighting up the whole RV. Trust me on this one, the number one problem with most weather stations is the screen is super bright at night and cannot be turned down. This one on its lowest settings you can have it just feet away from your face and sat your phone on it at night. Best one for RV's so far.
Emerson 1E78-140 Non-Programmable Heat Only Thermostat for Single-Stage Systems https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00204WWGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EBPPGD6YYKB8JBE3NDRQ
Here’s the thermal fuse you need for back up. Installed behind the fridge. Check out YouTube videos to replace. You can have a dealer do it for you but it’s not that hard and much cheaper to do yourself.
VG_S 5 pcs. 152C G4A00 Microtemp Thermal Fuse 152C TF Cutoff 10A 250V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BVWPKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2EzTd6YBLLq4X
I make $75-100 per week using swagbucks passively. You wont get rich but if you use it right you can make some pretty easy side money. You answer surveys and watch videos and other small tasks to earn money. If you sign up through my referral code it'll give you a starting bonus and other good offers. I can also send you proof of the income I've earned if you're nervous or need tips. https://www.swagbucks.com/refer/swaguser21276774 (don't leave the page once you click the link or you will not get bonus)
You can also DM me for more info or help.
I personally would get a DD-WRT compatible unit at the thrift store and set it up as a repeater. Shouldn't take more than an hour or so for a first timer with ok computer skills. The DD-WRT site has good info for each model. Just check to make sure the router will run DD-WRT, they have a search as well, before you get one. Some are okay but can't run all functions due to small amounts of onboard storage.
Thank you! It’s very doable with a lot of planning & common sense! We targeted a lot of lifestyle/travel companies with more progressive work/life balance. There are a lot of fully distributed companies you could target depending on your experience. We used LinkedIn to find the heads of HR & sent along the idea. (It helps that we both are at a senior level of our careers and brought our experience into the conversation as an asset).
To add onto everyone's response, I highly recommend getting wedges to level as opposed to blocks (I still use blocks under the stabilizers and tongue jack). I have the ones linked below, but there are many to choose from. They make it very easy to level because there's no trial and error or guesswork. Just keep backing up until it's level, then put in the chocks.
The home light switch with the screwless plate in that location makes me think the previous owner did some kind of hack with a "wireless switch"
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K
I'd pop off the trim plate and first see if it's wired or wireless. If wired, is it romex (120v) or stranded 12v wire.
It's going to take some investigation to discover what's going on here. No one here can look at a picture with no other information and know what's going on.
There a lot to digest here. If I only read the first sentence, I would recommend adding a “master” gate valve at the drain. It’s not uncommon for campers to have some water trapped in the pipes that settles to the drain cap. When you remove the cap, if spills out a half gallon or so. One of these will mitigate it if that’s your issue:
Now to sentence two+. Did you use the fresh water for showers and stuff? How much time passed between reading full and reading empty? If it was filled and no activity occurred and later showed empty with grey 3 full, all I can think of is that you have a dripping faucet (or shower or whatever feeds grey tank 3) and it ran continuously until your fresh was empty. One time my son left the bathroom faucet running after washing his hands and we left for a while. It almost flooded the rig. Things happen.
If you filled the tank I assume you then had no city water connection. For water to leave your fresh tank the water pump would have had to run constantly. Did you hear it running?
Standard garden hoses aren’t designed for drinking, lots of lead and other chems not compatible with human life. This is actually dangerous, so not drinking the water is smart. Assuming you can experiment and determine this isn’t from the camp supply, I’d get one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1FB9EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UGPEEA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
That's the one we got but there are, i think, 3 different models depending on the space between and the type of your jacks.
Dometic 310 is just the toilet. It was an upgrade over the molded plastic Dometic 300 that was originally in my trailer. A bidet attachment wouldn't have fit on that. The bidet attachment I used is linked below, but most standard ones should work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MMHQX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Andersen levelers make for much easier work. I wish I had mine for the last 7 years of camping. Simple rv levels at the front corner should be good for most situations. I haven't used the LevelMate but have seen good reviews of it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_A5WYBWR7YNDE7Z3E22AF
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXBAJBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_48BZ2N42VEZ9JYE761AB
evaporative bandana worn around neck cools blood flow to the brain. Works great, very low cost.
source: I survived Death Valley at 120 degF on a motorcycle
I don’t know if Amazon links are allowed on the sub Reddit, but this is the one I purchased a little while back. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TGEFV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why not just disconnect the battery when it’s going to sit for long periods? Maybe put the battery in the garage with a trickle charger on it ?
NOCO GENIUS1, 1-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W46BX31/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QC62FDEEWW955GBK4HWX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A friend of mine created this and it’s quite beautifully done:
The Ultimate RV Logbook: The best RVer travel logbook for logging RV campsites and campgrounds to reference later. An amazing tool for RVing, ... (Leather-look Cover Edition (Matte Finish)) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1790808340/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HKD6G6NPX36D9S0ENGJT
Thank you.
The hitch I ordered is this unit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W919F4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MKKJXJ484B8HWGYHMBDV
Travel trailer is a Forest River E-Pro E16BH:
https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/flagstaff-e-pro/E16BH/3889
TruckMap
iOS - https://apps.apple.com/us/app/truckmap-truck-gps-routes/id1198422047
Android - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.truckmap.truckmap&hl=en_US&gl=US
Go to the settings page to the height of your RV
We have a combo in our class A. Works well but is as old as our rig, if it dies I'll replace with a Samsung combo
We have an older version of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PZA2UG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MRGVZHQZVQYM8FGNGJZ0
I have seen some people use an electric water dispenser like the one below. They mount the dispenser near/next to the sink and drill a hole to run a longer tub to the 5 gallon jug in the space just below the sink.
I just put the jug with the attached dispenser on a table out side. Makes it easier for the kids.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Y4D3P1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZS2D9J7AM0JTFMWB5NJ0
Get a sewer cap with a small auxiliary port that you screw on a regular hose. In the event that you do find the black valve open before connecting your actual poop shoot, close the black valve, hold your sewer hose and unscrew your smaller port. Catch the nasty in your sewer hose and let it drain normally into the dump once that’s been solved, uncap the now drained sewer outlet and attach your sewer hose as normal. With any luck this will result in minimal spillage.
Camco Durable Sewer Cap with Hose Connection- Caps the Sewer Connection to Prevent Leaks, Easy Install and Simple Use (39463) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQKBP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SMTAA690PF7QAT76MNJC
Split wire loom aka convoluted tubing is what I use along with zip ties. Just be careful what you zip tie to, obviously not exhaust but be careful as hard fuel lines temp people.
Don’t forget a fuses, I would have one to protect the wire coming off the alternator. A second one just after the DC-to-DC to protect that wire.
I would be very careful before you do this. Charging through the existing 7pin is not going to be a issue. However, running heavy gauge wire from the truck electrical back to the trailer can cause damage to both truck and trailer batteries.
The alternator in most tow vehicles are sized just large enough to run the vehicle. It does not include heavy duty or dedicated alternator till you get in some 3/4 or 1 ton trucks. This means if you lower the resistance and flow too much amps you will be overworking the alternator and cause it to fail. The solution is to tie your alternator into a Buck-Boost DC-DC converter that can do some regulation.
The other issue if you can inadvertently turn your lithium batteries into helper for the starter batterie. You can see that even with a normal 7 pin a fairly high spike in amps attempt to flow back to help the starter. The batteries should have protection via the BMS but I would’t risk it, a option to fix this is a one way diode.
When you do run the wire, I would go down the engine bay and under the truck. I would encase it in wire loom and route it under the vehicle. Then you could use a Anderson plug set between the truck and trailer. Keep running the wire all the way to the battery compartment, if you tie into the breaker on the tongue you won’t get much better charging rates due to the limited fuse size and wire gauge.
Not the greatest TV, but it keeps power consumption down. SuperSonic SC-1912 LED Widescreen HDTV 19", Built-in DVD Player with HDMI, USB, SD & AC/DC Input: DVD/CD/CDR High Resolution and Digital Noise Reduction https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057IM9EU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_r9sdGbV1TPXJJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes exactly and I use This too
Searched for it on Amazon and that led me to this driveway fabric that might do the trick.
ArmorLay Commercial Grade Driveway Fabric, Stabilization, Underlayment (Black, 12.5' x 60') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MDB596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_b5PbGbFY2W6Y3
Are you connected to a sewer hookup? Is it frozen or just clogged? I had to end up getting this when I had a 4 foot section clogged up. Dumped half the bottle in and drove around for a half hour then let it set for a few days. Had to do this twice then called a septic company to come suck my tank out and flush it.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083FQYHCH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 He used these foldable shelf brackets and a cutting board. Simple idea..and I LOVE the extra space.
Her husband: Yes, pictured are both 15.6" USB monitors, cheapos but work well from Amason: amazon.com/gp/product/B0885RN8FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
yes, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0885RN8FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm this is second monitor. It works perfectly with this setup.
Yeh coming home to no more LPG means no fridge or hot water until you replace them... If you have a pick up scale (like those for baggage) you'll figure out how much fuel you have left
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Luggage-Accurate-Reading-Batteries-Measure/dp/B07KL6G4K9
You could maybe secure yours with a simple chain and lock just to deter opportunists but I would want to have a box built to store other stuff and bits and make that lockable
If this isn't permanent, I think a stay-a-while kit would be a much better answer. Made for exactly this purpose. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Connection-Auxiliary-Appliances-59123/dp/B0014JG7RQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3T2GEBJR2CQL&dchild=1&keywords=stay-a-while+propane&qid=1602957843&sprefix=stay-a-while%2Caps%2C1356&sr=8-1
No. But Dicor is really really good. To fix leaky joints you have to completely remove the old sealant, then clean it very well with acetone or mineral spirits. If it is wet inside/under the affected area you have to let it dry out before applying the Dicor sealant. In many locations (where screws go through) I cover with Eternabond tape long after the Dicor has cured. This is a very good multi-year solution. I use the self-leveling on horizontal surfaces and the non-sag on sloped or vertical joints. It's about $12 a tube.
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Products/s?k=Dicor+Products
https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-2-50-RoofSeal-Sealant-White/dp/B005GOM2I8
Great info. Im new to the trailer world (just bought mine and am waiting for the utilities to be installed at my property) but one thing im not sure if every rv has, is a 30 amp mode.
If your rv doesnt have a breaker for 30amp vs 50amp (dont know if mine does or not as I haven't take possession yet), be careful with the 50 to 30amp pigtail
Now, im coming from an electrical engineering pov (my trade), im just not sure what safety measures are in place an overload.
But if the rv is 50amp load, and pigtailed to a 30amp circuit. You risk overloading the circuit (protected by a breaker... But...) as well as the pigtail.
Personally, i would but a 30 dollar volt ohm clamp on ampmeter (measures current via the magnetic field produced, and is safe to use withotu having to go inline as you normally due to measure current) something lile this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_SmaFFbEJFC9G5
Then, when you plug in the rv to the source via the pigtail, and turn on each item you can monitor the current load and comfimr you are staying under 30 amps.
Make sure you watch it during appliance startups. The motor on the fridge, air conditioner etc erc.. They can have a 30% increase in current need during startup.
Note, i hope i am 100% wrong and this is unnecessary. If i am, i would love to be told how its done!!
But this is the procedure i use when working with people setting up an emergency generator at their home. So they know how much they can run in the house before overloading the generator.
Great information otherwise. My EE hackles jusy go up when pigtails get mentioned for current reducing....
I put this in my old trailer and it worked quite well: Emerson 1E78-140 Non-Programmable Heat Only Thermostat for Single-Stage Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204WWGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dVrzFbGRCJD5C
The only draw back is it is powered by two AAA batteries. They lasted a long time between needing to be changed though. Maybe once or twice a season.
We kept the TERRIBLE mattress that came with our RV and bought an AMAZING mattress topper that changed our world. Made our mattress perfect. Saved money too. We needed the full sized queen topper, but it can be trimmed to fit the shorter version. Don’t know if that’s even an option for you. But if it is... https://www.amazon.com/LUCID-Ventilated-Lavender-Infused-Mattress/dp/B079M1L3GN/ref=sr_1_8?crid=224LR10KHJH1I&dchild=1&keywords=lucid+4+inch+memory+foam+mattress+topper&qid=1600003512&sprefix=LUCid+4”%2Caps%2C396&sr=8-8
Looks like your pump strainer filter is broken. It's a $10 piece.
​
The smell getting into your camper is due to the vent not working properly. There’s all kinds of products you can put in your tank to deodorize it or mask smells but the smell is really only telling you that air from the black tank is getting out into your living space. Deodorizing the tank doesn’t eliminate the problem and can cause other problems with chemicals etching the tank or making it brittle. First things first: check the vent for obstructions. If air flow is unimpeded but the vent is an old style then consider changing the vent to a siphon vent. These create a better air flow and aren’t affected by wind direction the way some older vents are.
I use 360 siphon vents
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Components-389380-Siphon-Roof/dp/B01EXKU53E
I’ve been full-time for years. I don’t use “Happy Camper” or drop-ins and don’t have smells. It’s important to use the black tank correctly too (only empty if it’s 3/4 full, not less and not too full, flush the tank after dumping, add a couple gallons of fresh water to the tank after emptying it).
Just to clarify OP -- when a job says hardwired they mean a home internet connection usually on cable or fiber, usually trying to omit folks on more unreliable connections like LTE.
But in the off chance they are just more worried about wifi, which is a little weird, you just need to connect your jetpack via usb c to a GliNet router as I did in the past or to really upgrade, get a Pepwave LTE Router and connect that via ethernet to any router of your choice or direct to your laptop
I connected my 7730l and 8800l Verizon jetpacks via USB tethering to this router to provide wifi and ethernet routing https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750-300Mbps-pre-Installed-Included/dp/B07712LKJM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=glinet+router&qid=1596059486&sr=8-5
Had this problem a few weeks ago. Too much TP, not enough water. Tank was about 3/4 full.
I dropped an extra tank treatment pouch and went for a vigorous drive to move things around. Then hooked up the valve linked below to reverse flush. I'd let the pipes fill just enough to nudge the clog (brown water in the clear section) and then drain the pipes. Eventually it broke up the clog enough to dump the remainder. Make sure someone is watching the tank level like a hawk so you dont overflow. 🤢🤮
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9DV78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8.jfFbNCY0RD1
We use Happy Campers as our everyday blank tank treatment. When things need it we use Commando tank treatment. It's designed to be used quarterly or as needed. Make sure you follow the directions for both as they differ. For reference we live/camp mostly in the Deep South so we've got it on the heat.
I used this when I had a build up. Worked great. Just have to use plenty of water when flushing in the future. Might help to get the water over top of the solids to get them softer...
RTV silicone will last about 1 year (maybe 2 if not in direct sun). If that's all you need you'll be fine. However, Sikaflex 1a Polyurethane Sealant will last up to 10 years (near permanent). This stuff is nuclear. Both Lowes and Amazon have it.
Honeywell RTH2300B1012/A 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007BHLUWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nxxvEbDEVCGMW
This isn’t the exact one. I bought mine about 2 years ago. So this one is slightly different. But pretty much the same. Got mine at Canadian tire for cheaper than amazon.
I have these ones. Just level the trailer out first, slap them on straight.
Hopkins 08526 Never Fade Two Way Graduated Level https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXBAJBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vwJNCb41GQP6B
The wire in your hand is connected to the igniter that lights the propane when heat is called for. It should be plugged into a control board that is missing from your water heater. Based on the heavy rust, and missing parts if it were me I would replace it.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-Manufacturing-5239A-Water-Heater/dp/B01MY7FHKM
Yes, but I had to "upgrade" my Dometic toilet so that a standard toilet seat design bidet would fit. It's definitely made a difference in the amount of TP going into the black tank. Brondell
This is what we use in our home and trailer. Having a dog, these are easy to slip off and toss in the wash.
Is it a 4 season RV? Usually on a 4 season TT there is a heating pad under the fresh water tank to keep it from freezing. If you don't have that then the question is how long will it be sub freezing? Is it sub freezing for the entire day, it takes a fairly long time to freeze 50 gallons of water. It's going to be negative degrees by me this week but only over night, but the heat pad will protect it well enough. https://www.amazon.com/Heater-Holding-Gallons-Optional-Toggle/dp/B07ZJN2JW7/ref=asc_df_B07ZJN2JW7?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920869053493&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520395454627&psc=1
From what you have described and your location, I believe you can leave your fresh water supply on and connected.
To add, I would have the grey waste tank valve closed in addition to the black tank so that sink and shower water doesn't freeze and build up in the drain hose outside.
To your propane dilemma, You can get a propane adapter and extension hose to allow the use of portable propane bottles. How the adapter is connected is by disconnecting your propane regulator from the onboard propane tank valve, connect the adapter to the valve, then connect the regulator to the adapter. An extension hose connects to the adapter. This hose then can be connected to a portable propane bottle such as a 20 lb, 30 lb, or 40 lb size that sets on the ground just outside your RV. You'll still be able to use the onboard propane tank, when you get it filled, with the adapter still in place. Just disconnect the extension hose when portable tanks are not being used.
Here's a link to the Propane Adapter , If you have an RV store nearby, they should have this in stock.
I full-time in an RV as well (stationary) and am much further north than you are. I utilize (3) 100 lb. propane tanks with this adapter. When I've run out 2 of the tanks and connect to the 3rd, I take the 2 empty's and get refilled, rinse and repeat.
Mine looked similar in my 5 yr old trailer i bought used, too. I flushed and replaced and so far so good after 2 years and checking anode rod each winter. Have not seen any rust colored water in taps or when flushing/draining.
This is a great flush wand. Plastic so wont scratch anything inside tank:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-Cleanses-Sediment-Collects-11691/dp/B002XL2IBS/
Give this a whirl very radiate heat. Heats up in like 30 seconds. Its basically Mica stone that gives that same warmth a fire does. It has a TStat to a degree. Basically a dial.
I got this from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B823NC2R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Says it's unavailable right now. It definitely helps conserve the hot water (I can take longer showers now). The 'Stop/Pause' button is easier to use than the ones that have a slider that is stiff and difficult to use if your thumb is soapy. Hope this helps.
If they don't have them already -- hiking poles. They work wonders for hikers with minor mobility issues, and they make downhill specifically much easier on the knees. I bought these as a mid-range starter pair and still use them.
I use these instead, because they are more versatile and also work for the tongue jack at different heights.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VSBLH7
As to why?
- Less cranking of hand levelers.
- I'm paranoid when parked in Tsunami areas, and figure the block would allow me to just pull away faster. ;-)
- Soft ground.
None of these are all that common, so I would not call them "necessary." The main benefit is less hand cranking, and that's not a huge benefit. If you're low on space don't buy them.
I have a Class C, and considered installing a leveling system. But in the first year, we used leveling blocks under the wheels. After a few campsites, decided NOT to install the leveling system.
Figured it out with a standard level inside the rig. I look at the site, and see where the most level part is, I back in, and check my level. I then tell my assistant (wife) how many blocks for each wheel.
We place the blocks, and I drive up on them. Problem solved (and saved THOUSANDS not install the leveling system). Here's what I use, grab two packs, and you should be good:
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K
Yes. I remove any loose material using a plastic scraper - something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DC7WGG
Then clean the surface with mineral spirits followed carefully by a little bit denatured alcohol. Then seal it. If you apply too much clean excess immediately with mineral spirits.
This Watchdog UPS device will allow you to monitor your power usage on your phone. If you just want it for when running your generator they also have a 30 amp version, but if you have 50 amp I'd by this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Watchdog-PWD50EPO-Bluetooth-Protector-Portable/dp/B07PMJ2K95
I use this at home when running my generator during power outages just to be able to monitor draw.
Trailer: Apex Nano 208 BHS
Truck: 2019 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Bighorn, Tow Package, Auto Leveling Air Suspension, 1863 Payload, 5.7 Hemi Gas V8
WDH: Curt 17062 with sway control
The longest trip I have taken with the trailer is a few hundred miles with grades going from 0 ft elevation to 6500 ft. No problem with pulling ever. Just have to pay attention to cross winds, passing traffic.
Having towed the same trailer with a Titan XD pro 4x (8200 lbs curb weight) I notice the difference with the Dodge vs a more heavy duty truck but its still a pretty comfy tow.
Do something like this on your bed and you can heat it with an electric hand warmer: https://www.amazon.com/Crua-Cocoon-Insulated-Dome-Tent/dp/B07BTK97K9/ref=asc_df_B07BTK97K9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312111913661&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=123557423232413720&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m...
Water Bandit - never leave home without one....
As far as hanging wet towels, I hung two of these on the shower wall so we can just hang them in the shower. We full time and they’ve worked great for over a year.
It’s our largest expense by far. But we both still work full-time remote for our NYC tech industry jobs so having reliable, redundant, perfect internet is not something we have any wiggle room on. (We often bind them all together with Speedify)
It's a let's go aero jack it https://www.amazon.com/Lets-Go-Aero-Jack-Carrier/dp/B01MYRM7MM. Directions to put it together suck but I like where it is as I have no back ladder and wanted to save space in the bed of the pickup. Towed it this way about 8000 miles now and no problems. Bikes held rock solid and I can keep an eye on the.
Not a huge purchase, but I really like these small lights 3W LED Touch Lights I mounted the magnet plate inside of each wardrobe on either side of the bed. They can be adjusted to be really dim (enough to see at night, but not wake up the wife). Since they’re magnetic, they’ll also stick to the hood vent or other steel areas in your rig.
Your counter space is more valuable than one use appliances. This is the best improvement I've ever made to my RV: https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Thermostatic-Showering-Temperature-Control/dp/B071ZP4ZHN/ref=sr\_1\_16\_sspa?crid=F69IKBTHH5Z9&keywords=thermostatic+shower+valve&qid=1668864100&sprefix=thermostati%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-16-spons&sp\_...
Sure. We had a popup for ten years. It had no A/C but was wired for one so it had a 30 amp TT plug. We used another adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Dogbone-Electrical-Innovative-PowerGrip/dp/B000BUU5YA/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3BR8IH5FW836R&keywords=power+dongle+20+amp+to+30+amp&qid=1668823849&sprefix=power+dongle+20+amp+to+30+amp%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3) if only a standard 15/20 amp plug was available.
Enjoy!
50 amp service is only needed on larger trailers running two A/C units. Most campers like you describe are 30 amp plugs.
I