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This is a great charger for starting out at a good price.
I have 2 batteries I run
900 mah for longer rides more trail-oriented
350 mah 70c little beast
Both 2S and stock plug
Barrage motor is the goto replacement on the cheap. bigger more power. You will need to get a motor mount and swap the wires as it's wired backwards or if you want Injora sells a replacement for a bit more with the motor mount and it's pre-swapped, but it does take a bit to get it like a couple weeks.
I used the thermal paste that came with the sinks in the kit. It took a while to dry enough that they didn't keep shmooing around on the motor, maybe 15mins. Was kind of like the 3m super 77 spray adhesive where it seemed to help letting it dry a bit before sticking it on. I've got maybe 4-5 hours of run time on the setup and they're still on there. Came in a 60pack so I've got some extras in case they pop off. They fit two on the outside, one on the inside. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WR3S8CZ
I used the lane boys rc light controller. I also used the bang rc gear taillight housing, drilled a few more holes into each of the light buckets to accommodate the reverse and signal lights.
The LEDs are just plain 3mm LEDs soldered to 26 gauge wires and then crimped to little connectors.
I would assume it’s the same - it has to have the same thermal conductivity properties. I got the cheapest I could get on Amazon at $4.99. It’s 3 times cheaper than 20M weight fluid.
HY-510-25g Thermal Conductivity:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NRG8KJK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have to buy a tap, here's the one I bought. It was less than US$7 on Amazon. I used it to tap both of my aluminum HR emax servo trays and it didn't snap or dull.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z9RR7PP
LMK if you need an M1.6 drill bit. I got a great deal on a package of 6, and I only used 2 or 3 of them. I doubt I'll ever use the others so if you need one I'll send you one.
These are the plastic ones I use. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2-0xL19mm-Steering-Linkage-Helicopter/dp/B07QPXWDCQ
They're true spherical rod ends and when used to convert to front 4-link they increase articulation and completely eliminate all binding.
This paper is for ink jet printers. https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Printable-Waterslide-Transfer-Tumblers/dp/B08DS2WNV2 You'll need to clear coat it before cutting out the decal or the ink will run when dipped in the water to apply it. Lazer jet paper is available too, which doesn't need to be clear coated.
This stuff here works great for course making too. (or something similar to it) It's what our local hobby shop used in the making of their course. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQKE56/?coliid=I67V6RD273U7X
I have a set on each of mine. I installed them right away, so I don't have a stock baseline to go off of. I do like them myself as well.
However, if I tried to add these wheel weights,
Brass Wheel Hex Adapters, the rear axles were not long enough. They worked great on the front with the Treal brass knuckles though.
I've been using this for a month and a half no issues at all, love it. https://www.amazon.com/SUPULSE-Battery-Charger-7-4-11-1V-Charger%EF%BC%88B3V2%EF%BC%89/dp/B099K8XFG6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=39R9M61AZLADF&keywords=supulse+scx24&qid=1671562536&sprefix=supulse+scx24%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-2
I'm not sure there is much middle ground there. There are some vids comparing micro servos on YT, like the one below, and there are some that are better (the one FMS puts in the FCX24 is good), but you'd be in abou $30 for the servo+mount. With the price of the EMAX I tend to run those or a ~$40-$50 servo (NSDRC, Reefs, AGFRC, etc.). I haven't seen much value in something in between.
https://youtu.be/2uOfcvJzSi8?t=2297
FWIW, the the NSDRC micro is usually $10 cheaper than the Reefs and puts out slightly more torque. I haven't tried a Reefs but the NSDRC is nice.
This AGFRC is $40 right now on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AGFrc-Digital-Torque-Bearing-A20CLS/dp/B07PKMC15Z
i ended up getting a brushless surpass motor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q3FBJGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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paired with a furitek lizard esc and the stock scx24 receiver which i think was $80
OGRC brass portals. Still pretty expensive, but they're complete axles, and that should be all of the brass you need. Personally, I wouldn't want brass axles in the rear. It seems like it would be really tough to achieve a front weight bias. One thing I like about the Treals is that I can have all aluminum in the rear, with a mixture of aluminum and brass in the front. That just gives me more options for getting to 60/40.
One thing to consider with your rig is the really long wheelbase. I would think that combining a long wheelbase with a front weight bias would help compensate for a higher COG. Brass might be overkill for your rig.
Got this brushed motor from amazon. I just ordered it so i’ll update you when it comes in and if it’s worth it
as far and all of the red stuff....you could save a few bucks this way........
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Tool set....Onyx makes a great little set for $25. look at hobby town. Love that little set for these x24's
Maybe an aluminum center plate would go nicely with all of the new links and steering goodies.
https://www.amazon.com/Treal-Axial-SCX24-Aluminum-Plate/dp/B08G8QTRGB/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13G73AJZXR1OH&keywords=treal%2Bscx24%2Bplate&qid=1669163743&sprefix=treal%2Bscx24%2Bplate%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-2&th=1
If you don't want to wait for aliexpress shipping, the same receiver is available on amazon, same day delivery for me in AZ, if you're willing to pay a bit more for the convenience. You will still have to solder it though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081CJFVFV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this in most of my trucks and my GT-5 transmitter with no problems.
Mine had some crossbars that were m1.4 threaded and some that were m2, but mine was the slightly different chassis that everyone sells, so YMMV. I had this one:
No, this charges via the main leads and uses the balance plug to balance the charge across cells, so you’ll need to make or buy a new charging lead to suit. Also, the minimum charge rate for these chargers is quite high for the stock lipo.
I use something similar to this :
HTRC LiPo Battery Charger 2S-3S RC Balance Charger B3AC Pro Compact Charger for 7.4-11.1V LiPo Batteries(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HN5DZ5Y
I had issues with a knock off from DKKY. The rods that attach the two rails together were too short by 2mm. This meant that the shelves for ESC and Battery didn't fit. My work around was to use these small brass bushings, however it ships with 5, 3 were needed to assemble the frame. The bushings are actually meant to be used to install shocks, so I was short 2. There is no way that I could get the body to make contact with the front body mount, about a 10mm gap, without chopping off the front grill or leaving off the bumper. In the process of figuring out if I could make it work I fried the ESC.
As for LCG... the rails are exactly the same profile as the originals. Ues the ESC and battery are slightly lower, but not much unless you install the battery in the low area, however this can be an issue depending on your motor (koomdo mini) and can make it more difficult to situate the ESC. I have about 6 hours in to mine and still haven't got a working solution.
I did get my money back.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0B7JBJR5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would love to see pics of completed LGC setups.
Not all parts are winners.
I've drilled out tons of holes into plastics with this set: uxcell PCB Drill Bits 1.1mm-2.0mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVSJZXN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I've definitely used the 1.2 or 1.3mm the most. These bits have worked perfectly with this pin vise: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSCQ98?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So far the best I found are these DKKY axles. They are 104mm in total width, so that is just 3-4mm wider on each side. The downside is that they're made of plastic. If anyone uses these I'd love to hear how they perform.
Crazepony 2-in-1 USB Balance Charger Cable 1A with XH-3P Connector Plug for 2S 7.4V LiPo Battery RC Car Boat Rock Crawler FPV Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNLZBPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CJRmhgqueaIu2
This is the one I am using, it works great so far.
I really like my AGFRC A20CLS! Not super expensive, about the same size as the Reefs99 so it fits the same mounts. They did just release a more powerful one for quite a bit more money.
If you want speed and slow speed crawl something like this might suit. It's brushless so you'll need an ESC.
Brushed vs brushless. Brushless will win in the majority of circumstances.
Was initially going to use led shot for shotgun shells, still might, but I ordered these Fishing weights they're little rolls that weight about 20-25g a piece
Just ordered this bad boy, a mofo black servo, and the mofo servo mount. This power hd is waterproof boys and girls!
Looks awesome! I am working on a raptor body swap too. Where did the donor body come from? I am starting with a die cast Motor max.
https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Max-2017-F-150-Raptor/dp/B07GRJXF4S
I bought these specific orings from Amazon to replace the one in my C10. Worked great.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GKHXBKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It’s the motor, I’m 98% confident. They go out all the time. I’d recommend this motor from injora
I'm using this set. For most bolts (stock and treal) I use the 1.27mm size. For Injora I use the 1.3mm.
<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01632PB34?psc=1&linkCode=li1&tag=thatscaffolde-21&linkId=44905c9b2a12b20dfa48a5c17e884b25&language=en\_GB&ref\_=as\_li\_ss\_il" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-eu.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B01632PB34&Format=_SL110_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=GB&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=thatscaffolde-21&language=en_GB" ></a><img src="https://ir-uk.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=thatscaffolde-21&language=en\_GB&l=li1&o=2&a=B01632PB34" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
I use these batteries and a ph2.0 to jst adapter to plug into the esc.
I use a lektron balance charger and have been really happy with run time.
Here, it's all you need. Can't be more simple, the isdt is for people with a range of battery types. If you're rocking the scx24, this charger is perfect.
So, again, I'm not an expert, but when I was first jumping in, I bought these . And they have served me better than I could have hoped. Truthfully, the batteries last about as long as I care to drive 75% of the time. Knowing what I know now, I might suggest getting a smaller capacity 200 mah battery from mofo, because as you get into the hobby, reducing weight were you can becomes important. And it's have fun things you can vary to examine performance. In the beginning I even bought some 900 mah batteries thinking the extra run time would be neat, I was dead wrong, it just added a lot of extra top heavy weight and the battery massively outlived my desire to drive for the session.
This is the battery I used to replace the one I forgot to unplug. I took the shield off the balance plug so it would tuck under the body better and changed the connector to xt30 which I use on all of mine. The JST would be fine too I just have problems unplugging them.
Im running the flysky gt5. It was like $70 for the combo on amazon. You can also get some tiny receivers for like $20, I'm planning on getting one to reduce weight soon.
I just finished a cliffhanger body I posted yesterday, that was a mazz design cheat code chassis though.
For an extra $45 you can get the mofo pancake and really have a beast. I do suggest you keep the drive shafts stock as a weak point.
I actually spent way too much money experimenting with different cements all the modeling forums swear by. Tried straight MEK and Tamiya Ultra Thin (MEK, Acetone + a bunch of other stuff that will probably kill you) but I kept going back to my 20+ year old bottle of Testors Liquid Cement that I had when I was a kid. Its thicker and seemed to fill the gaps better...plus no MEK which is a bonus. Also used a little bit of CA glue to tack stuff in place sometimes while I let the cement "weld" the pieces together.
The rods are also styrene. If you look up Evergreen Scale Models they actually have a bunch of different shapes. Found most hobby shops, including Hobby Lobby, stock a bunch of it
Thanks! Its made out of styrene which I believe is the same stuff model kits are made out of. Basically just a pack of this and and a bag of 1/8 rod from the hobby shop got me through most of the project.
These are the magnets I use, 1st gluing 2 to the body mount after cutting the pin off. Shoe-Goo them to the ends. Dry overnight, blue painters tape over the magnets, place another set of magnets on tp of the painters tape apply Shoe-Goo and put the body down aligning it so the body is square with the frame. Let this dry overnight. Open and remove the painters tape.
Be sure to wash the magnets and mount with alcohol before gluing.
I’ve had good luck with these cheap ESCs. Reviews say they burn out often, but I have 4, and they all still work like new.
YoungRC 30A ESC Brushed Electric... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX3514Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
With the stock servo not showing the same issues I would have to lean towards a bad Emax servo. It not likely but still possible to get 2 bad servos. As others have said there are a lot of servos on Amazon being sold as Emax. I'm going to guess more clones than real ones. Generally Injora parts are decent. What I've seen is them packaging their servo mount with a Emax servo so only Injora knows if it's real or a clone.
Do you happen to have a servo tester? If so you could hook it up and work it and see if you can replicate the issue. I've got one like this
I have a decent amount of Injora stuff, including knuckles, and haven't run into any issues yet. I'm sure there are more than a few duds out there but they have a good reputation.
Their screws are pretty terrible but you can always use your old ones. I would do yourself a favor and get one of these while you're at it. Will save you a lot of time and stripped screws in the future.
Definitely get some brass parts. There’s some wheel weights you can get on Amazon for cheap but there’s some good quality brands that sell them too. The wheel weights fit nicely inside the wheels of numerous SCX24 models. The ones on Amazon haven’t been running into any issues whatsoever for me, and I don’t think there’s really any problem with buying them over the “quality” brands. Here’s a link to what I got: https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Upgrades-Differential-Compatible-AXI90081/dp/B09D72LQP9 (I’m not sure if it’s the same brand that I got, but it’s exactly the same stuff I got in my kit).
Your body mount magnets are huge in the picture I thought they were the stick on wheel weights used on 1:1 wheels. Here's the magnets I use
This should do the trick. Tons of generic, no name pullers out there but this is the style/size your looking for
Great buy, I'm waiting for my blue Bronco arrive! Fun little cars haha
I use an ISDT K2 charger for my lipos, can charge 2 batteries, monitor individual cell voltage/resistance and has storage voltage functionality. You need to purchase/make an adapter for the small battery connector, male JST PH2.0 to female XT60 since it uses both the balance and ouput cables.
OR you can get these small chargers which will do just fine since your starting out, gave mine to my cousin when he got his SCX, charges them fast and its just plug, wait, play, no tinkering needed https://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Compact-Balance-Charger/dp/B07NQS6LV9
Are you talking about the screws that gold the deadlock ring on or the nut that holds the wheel on?
I have several RC4WD wheels and all mine came with was the little T handle 4mm nut drivers for the wheel nut.
The ring screws use either a .050 hex wrench or a 1.5mm hex wrench depending on which screws came with it.
This what you looking for? https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-4inch-Shank-Magnetic-Screwdriver/dp/B019VHXSB0/ref=sr\_1\_13?crid=HM69ZHFPV3GZ&keywords=1.5mm+hex+driver&qid=1658616166&sprefix=1.5mm%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-13
The body is the revell model . 1/24 . Series 3 Land Rover . You can get it on Amazon for 30 $. The cooler came from a scale construction set also from Amazon . https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Gear-18425-Construction-Set/dp/B001V66YM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=1DQN9PLG1S3WU&keywords=hobby+gear+1%2F24+scale+accessories&qid=1657818160&sprefix=hobby+gear+1%2F24%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-6
This one has a gyro basically it can correct steering for you and keep the crawler dead straight. https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-Receiver-Fail-Safe-Transmitter-Airplane/dp/B07PZTSH71
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Not sure if its useful. Since you have used both, could you say the Flysky is better than the stock? In what way? Thanks!
I bought this combo from Injora on Amazon. It’s their bead locks with mud terrain tires. https://www.amazon.com/INJORA-Beadlock-Crawler-AXI90081-AXI00001/dp/B09JSQ7QBN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=injora+beadlock+1%2F24&qid=1657433889&sr=8-2
I’m running the Injora 43mm Shocks with the stiffest springs they came with in this video.
I guess not so much that they are too “bouncy”, bad word choice. What I’m trying to say is the weight transfer from side-to-side or from front-to-back happens more quickly than I would like. I may need elastic bands from frame to axle in order to slow that transfer down.
Get these and then use jst batteries. More options and easy to use plug and plug in. Just my 2 cents
INJORA RC Servo Steering Servo with Servo Mount Bracket and Arm for RC Car Boat Model Parts Axial SCX24 Upgrade Parts（Black） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M6ZSY9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1S4G5YD29VTR3XHNDJ7G
I'm using a Zues Nano VTX($20) cause I just had a extra laying around. Then I just pulled a camera off one of my old tiny whoops. You can buy FPv cameras for around $20 as well. Then find pack of antennas for cheap. Or you can go with a AIO unit if you have the room.
GOQOTOMO GD02 200mW 5.8GHz 37CH FPV Video Transmitter with Dipole Brass Antenna Ultra Micro AIO NTSC 600TVL Camera Combo for FPV Indoor Racing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y47BXZN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K2R4RN8WD1TDPPRT1NQQ
Here's a link to a AIO unit.
GOQOTOMO GD02 200mW 5.8GHz 37CH FPV Video Transmitter with Dipole Brass Antenna Ultra Micro AIO NTSC 600TVL Camera Combo for FPV Indoor Racing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y47BXZN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K2R4RN8WD1TDPPRT1NQQ
Benedict Harry RC Shocks 43mm Aluminum Threaded Tele Shocks for Scx24 AXI90081 Deadbolt 1/24 Crawler Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PFYNTFH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PZCV1Q8BN0CT1HMDF6ZC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If u want a cheap basic balance charger check this out Hosim RC LiPo Battery Balance Charger 2S 3S Cells 7.4-11.1v 10W B3 Airsoft/Battery Pro Compact Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JGCP3FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VMX7JH6WV7KSV0V8GGBW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think this on/off remote might be how to get the reverse light to work.
Vbestlife RC Controller Switch Accessory, Third Channel Light Receiver Cord Switch for RC Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096B848VJ/
Something like this will work well for these screw sizes
Big Country Toys - Flatbed Trailer - 1:20 Scale - Gooseneck Trailer - Toy Trailer - Vehicle Accessory - Farm Toys - Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4C775E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N4SNHXQE08DBQ4C810Q4
I can't tell you which exactly. I got this kit and used the long male shaft... Lol nothing else was moved around, i did have to trim my ESC tray (rear) slightly to give the motor more room. Axial Driveshaft Set,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SF7JDQS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
RC-Hub 4PCS 1.0In Crawler Tires Rubber Wheel Tires for 1/24 Axial SCX24 90081 AXI00001 AXI00002 RC Crawler Car (54mm), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LYGFGDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X6Z0HNBJF3WK5CAX7M08?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the wheels RCLIONS 4pcs Aluminum Alloy 1" Micro Beadlock Wheels Rims for All 1:24 Scale Axial SCX24 RC Crawler Car Upgrades Accessories https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0989BKN13/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2BAR8ZYZGMSA5P2MYDS7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And here's the tires RC-Hub 4PCS 1.0" Crawler Tires... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09LYGFGDL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Might as well upgrade
4Pack Vgoohobby RC 4mm Brass Wheel Hub Knuckle Counterweight Front Rear Wheel Axle Drive Shaft Joint Compatible with Axial SCX24 Deadbolt AXI90081 AXI00002 AXI00001 1/24 RC Crawler Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095XV57KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VYDFAGMKFBHE5GHVQ7CG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
$43 for 4 lights
Color Changing Spotlights, 12W LED Underwater Fountain Lights Pond Lights IP68 Waterproof Submersible Spotlights Multi-Color Dimmable Memory Adjustable for Garden Yard Lawn Pathway Tree, Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY77DN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDZ7P27TY8AREZV633GX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I see these and im very tempted, only because I can run the brass behind it.
I wonder if these are the same exact rim? https://www.amazon.com/Maleonn-Aluminum-Beadlock-Upgrades-Accessories/dp/B097MZXYBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=30E2G4COD7UIY&keywords=maleonn+scx24+wheels&qid=1651731603&sprefix=maleonn%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-9
these wheels work the same as RC4WD - you can reverse them to make deep dish
RCLIONS 4pcs Aluminum Alloy 1" Micro Beadlock Wheels Rims for All 1:24 Scale Axial SCX24 RC Crawler Car Upgrades Accessories https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0989BKN13/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_J4RXRGCGZ7X39Y6WJNHF
You can find them on Amazon under many different names. They are intended for the 1/18 FMS Landcruiser. They are all brass, weigh 48 grams a piece and are not expensive! I had to file my extending hexes slightly to get them to fit, but totally worth it. They look great and perform great. Mine are here.
BEAUY 4PCS Brass Beadlock Wheel... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09VBXTR96?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Shout out to whichever Redditer pointed me in the direction of these wheels!
Styrene from my LHS & lights from Amazon
uxcell 10pcs Prewired 0805 Orange Surface Mounted Devices LED Light Emitting Diode - DC 6-18V Micro Wired Soldered Mini LED Lights with Resistor https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07W1YM63Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_TXZ9SXDEB6JNW44G9R6J
Injora via Amazon has brass knuckles + brass hub extensiona for $19.99. I'm personally not a fan of hub extensions. INJORA RC Brass Steering Knuckle and Black Hex Extension kit for Axial Scx24 Upgrades AXI90081 Upgrades Parts 1/24 RC Crawler Car Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NQ3GC56/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ZXDS1K833H9GF7TAVB3W
They also have via Amazon: Brass knuckles + Brass hub extensions + brass diff covers + brass steering links for $45. NJORA RC Black Brass Upgrades Steering Knuckle,Diff Cover and Steering Rod Tie Links Set for 1/24 RC Crawler Car Accessories Axial SCX24 AXI90081 Upgrades Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09R1P1J2P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_S7MTG80JSKS42KPZTSFH
I've had a scx24 with an 050 motor drag a scx10iii Bronco with ease. As far as tyres go stock will likely pull it with no issue. But a heavier set of rims wouldn't go astray.
If your heart is set on brushless get a lizard pro ESC with Bluetooth module and this motor. A Furitek Komodo will do it but it's going to cost a lot just for a tow vehicle.
They are advertised as 1/18 scale FMS landcruiser wheels but fitted my axial hexes with a little bit of filing down. I've heard others say they didn't need to fold theirs. They seem to have many different brand names. These are the one I purchased. I really like them.
BEAUY 4PCS Brass Beadlock Wheel... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09VBXTR96?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These motors are finicky and from what I’ve read and experience infamous for dying rather quickly. My C10 and my sons Deadbolt both died after simply adding some weighted wheels.
Both replaced with cheap Injora motors from Amazon with no issues.
You can use one of these
They’re pretty easy to use. Very simple to put simple very small holes for wiring. If this is was a “bashing” RC, I wouldn’t drill holes without making a sort of “grommet” to maintain body ridgidity, but these little crawlers don’t see big jumps, or any major abuse, so it’s not a huge deal.
Alternatively, you can say “what are you doing, step drill??” And get one of these.
Also easy to use. Larger……but I wanted to make my poor joke….And saves you needing to switch bits for larger holes on different future projects.
I got them of of Amazon ill send you the links to them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MJL6TV5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_RD62PHHD7HE0TMMYBW4B
and for the windows just look up jeep window covers on amazon
Furitek Komodo is a great option along with the lizard pro ESC it's a fairly unstoppable rig. Only downside is it's really slow so if you like to trail your truck it's not ideal.
/u/chills32 has had luck with motors off Amazon I am going to replace a Komodo with this at Chills recommendation, it appears to be a punchy motor with decent slow crawl a great option for rock racer style rigs.
If you do go the brushless route the lizard pro ESC is without a doubt the best available at the moment.
Probably a charger issue, here are two good options:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R18YNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KQPSM4Q32T1AXPQYE69F
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LSPZGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TN8Z0TYFWE34PWPMFMWN
You may have to rig up a connector for them
I went around and ordered everything I could find a while back because it was driving me nuts no one made a thin wall driver, this was the best set I found and it’s great for RC, you can also order just the single size you need
Basically these. I work in a print shop and we regularly make name badges so we always have them in stock. If you have access to them, you can easily make your own mount. I had one of the standard kits and just needed the magnet, so I cut one in half. But if you have the means, you could probably make your own with a little ingenuity. I didn't want to spend the $20 for a pack of magnets when I only needed one.
Strong Magnetic Name Badge Holders with Steel Back Plate, 100 Pack Name Tags/ID Badge Magnets, Fastener with 3M Adhesive on Front Plate,Strength Neodymium Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNQ1L6X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_G2BC3ATRD6DK2WKGKVY0
If you get an rc aux switch link and plug it into the “AUX” channel, the channel 3 switch on your remote should toggle the lights on and off.