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this may not be your model, but I imagine it looking quite similar to what you have.
Typically there's a rubber piece near the choke, that would be the primer button, push that a few times to get some fuel into the cylinder. For the choke, you'll want to set it as far as it can go on the one side that doesn't have the little picture where it's straight up and down. choke will limit the air entering the engine and once it gets started, you can typically move it to a half choke position until it sounds like it'll run well and then you can take off the choke completely opening it wide open where it'll operate while you're blowing. If it sounds like the engine is going to die, move it down to half choke for a little bit more to let it catch up. That's typically what I do when I'm too impatient with my blower.
I’m going to try these on my Jeep. Assuming this would work on a snowblower.
Nilight - 60001SB Led Pods 2PCS 18W 1260LM Spot Led Off Road Lights Super Bright Driving Fog Light Boat Lights Driving Lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RVH2D3M5E65J1PPYQN16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Carbs are really cheap on Amazon. I have purchased several for under $20 each! I also invested in this worth every penny!
This is similar to the set I have.
Assuming this is an Airens based on the fact that my electric starter looks the same.
The heated hand grips kits are all ~$99. Airens.com is backordered, but you can get them from other online places or from a local dealer all for about that price. I'm installing a pair of heated grips in a week or two on my Deluxe 28 so I've been looking into this pretty extensively lately.
Not sure what you mean by a headlight kit. I'm debating replacing my halogen bulb with an LED one (supposedly this one does not have flickering issues when installed on a similar airens), but honestly I wear a headlamp when I snowblow at night and that is good enough to see what I'm doing.
Very bad idea to run without that cover. The cover keeps the transmission dry. If the rubber wheel, and aluminum friction disk get wet, you will basically lose all of your transmission torque, it will slip immediately. If snow gets up under there, you will have a problem.
Worst-case, could you sort of make a makeshift cover? Cardboard/plywood, secured with tape, something like that? It certainly wouldn't be pretty, but it could at least cover up the transmission. If you were using something like cardboard, which will get soft when it gets wet, I would completely cover the cardboard with something like packing tape, to kind of waterproof it against the snow.
You could also use something like coroplast (the stuff that things like political yard signs are made from), it's plastic, and be cut fairly easily. At least the material itself wouldn't be susceptible to water.
https://www.amazon.com/Brilliant-Yard-Signs-Corrugated-Coroplast/dp/B08KGX4RWS
If you have/get an inline spark tester, you can confirm you're still getting spark with the plug installed, and at the speed you can spin the engine with the pull cord (fighting compression).
The cause could be a bunch of things, of course, not necessarily just spark. But it's interesting that you still couldn't start it after it was warm.
Trying a different spark plug is also a simple/cheap test. And if you had a spark plug gapping tool, you could try temporarily closing the gap down to maybe half of the normal distance, and see if it will start. That smaller gap makes it easier for the spark to happen.
If you have starting fluid, or carb cleaner spray (which is also flammable), give a 1-2 second spray of that into the carburetor's intake, and see if you can pull-start it. If so, that means you're getting spark.
If you can see the carb's intake (may need to remove an engine shroud), look down the intake (with the choke open, so you can see), and push the primer a few times, see if you see a little squirt of fuel in the carb's intake.
https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Diagnostic-Automotive-Lawnmower-Motorcycles/dp/B0B8VHX5DD
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-67900-Spark-Plug-Gapper/dp/B0009OR9A6
Congrats on the new home, and the new machine! Nothing new. As others have said, a bike pump will work. Though a higher-volume, lower-pressure pump will be quicker, and less tiring. Like a mountain bike pump, vs a road bike pump.
Especially if you don't already have a bike pump, it might be worth considering something like this, a cigarette-lighter powered car pump. Use it for the snowblower, and then stash it in the trunk, in case your car ever has a low tire, or if you need the spare tire, only to discover the spare tire is low on air, from just sitting around.
No experience with this one, but there is no battery in it to degrade over time, it just plugs into the car's outlet. $23 after the $5 coupon checkbox:
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Compressor-Portable-Inflator-Light/dp/B07YC12FW1/
Agreed. You can get a drill for $30, if not less. That's basically the cost of a trailer rental, never mind gas, and paying someone.
I used baler belt from Tractor Supply Company, as the rubber flaps, when I did mine.
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Corded-5-2-Amp-DR260C/dp/B00T2VJ93C/?th=1
This is the one I purchased. Note that the gaskets were not the same but the old ones were in good shape so I simply reused them: MOTOALL Carburetor for 951-12705... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFS87FD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I would just buy a carb on Amazon. Get the adjustable screws for carb air and fuel flow. I ordered this for my 9HP, and it worked great. Check your model to get the proper part.
Carbhub 640052 Carburetor for Tecumseh 640349 640054 640058 640058A HMSK80 HMSK85 HMSK90 HMSK100 HSMK110 LH318A LH358SA 8HP 9HP 10HP Snowblower Generator Chipper Shredder - Tecumseh 640052 640054 Carb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NTGG2K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_TZTD7KC56Q82YRPAJ3XY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here’s the two pack for the huskies:
Husqvarna 2 Pack Genuine 583838801 Composite Skid Shoe OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B1JCJMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1QZE8C42FVD054AXP7DD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here are the ones I bought for my toro:
Detroit Thermo Toro Skid Shoe Replacement Non-Abrasive Polymer with Stainless Steel Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTZ8FG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WZV6FPXFYVPYQFWW6K5F
hope this works.
I did a quick search, it looks like there's a compatible part: Briggs & Stratton Shear Pins Compatible With 88291000MA 1501227MA 760875MA E13 https://www.ebay.com/itm/272445275961
i did another search for 1501227ma and got https://www.amazon.com/Murray-1501227MA-Snowblower-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B01BAC94K8#customerReviews looks like two for $9.29
Get an extension cord and use this waterproof cord connector to make sure it doesn’t get water or snow in the connection. Plus this will lock the cords together so they won’t separate
I have a spare compact jack in this style https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-620471-6000Lb-Unijack/dp/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=jack%2Bstand%2Blift&qid=1556896185&s=automotive&sr=1-10&th=1. I am going to weld a hitch onto the top, and attach it to the blower. Also, i am going to add a 3rd wheel in front possibly for tongue weight situations.
Interesting. How good are they? I'm worried less about the depth of snow as I am about the total length of the sidewalk.
At the moment, I was just now thinking of getting this and adding skids: <strong>EGO Power+ SNT2102 21-Inch 56-Volt Cordless Snow Blower with Peak Power Two 5.0Ah Batteries and Charger Included</strong>
I believe I found the replacement carb for $14 on Amazon. It seems that it's worth buying a replacement than cleaning the original?
https://www.amazon.com/GooDeal-Carburetor-951-14026A-951-14027A-951-10638A/dp/B019STCU92
Agree on this too. I just had my driveway paved. It was pristine black until the snowblower got delivered and the delivery guy turned it on the metal skids which made a huge scrape mark. Upgraded to the poly skids. These should be standard.
Toro 38211 Shoe Skid Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OI2RBAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_hU6XFbD57ZE1G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Because both models are pretty old (the big one is from '85, C950-52117, smaller probly 80's as well, C950-52582), finding OEM parts is almost impossible so will have to do with replacement for other snowblowers.
Big box stores don't have those kind of parts, local repair shops are burning thru parts fast, some have several weeks waiting time, but I found one on Amazon (Murray 762222MA) which is super similar to what I would need.
thank you English_Cat
there is only one screw (black plastic one) which blocs how far the governor's arm can go. Is that the idle speed control? I did try to play with it with not much sucess. If I go to far with it far RPMs go really high if I go to low it surges. I failed finding a sweet spot but I can give another try if this is it.
I think I did a good job with cleaning it. I used the carb cleaner and compressed air. Of course I did unscrew whatever was to unscrew inside to get to all the little holes.
personally i just us one of these and should probably use hearing protection but i just tough it out and blast through the 20 mins of blowing i have to do
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https://www.amazon.ca/Tough-Duck-Aviator-Black-Large/dp/B00DOUIUTQ
Good idea...looking for the model, i have a craftsman 247.881731 snowblower and the closest i can find is this one from amazon, but it doesn't say model number, just craftsman. Do you think this will fit?
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-HSSK40-HSSK50-HS50-LH195SA/dp/B01MSNFSAF/
Would Lucas Oil White Lithium Grease (https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/) be okay for the axles? I already have it on hand for the garage doors. Seems most grease options need a grease gun and I have no need for one of those.
Any recommendations for anti-seize? The brand they mention in the manual is $20+ on Amazon...
I'll definitely be investing in white lithium grease spray as it sounds like it is useful for a lot of things.
Thanks again for all the help.
You don't have to, it helps. I just wait for snow to build up and get packed down. If the ground is not frozen it will not matter the skids will just rut right in to ground.
These help https://www.amazon.com/ARMORskids-Heavy-Blower-Shoes-spacing/dp/B019KV29UI
There's a Hayne's Small Engine Guide for 5 HP and less, also 5.5 HP through 20 HP.
Those will cover engines pretty well as basically nothing has changed in small engines over the last forever amount of years. If you want to get something that's related to your snowblower, get your snowblower's model number and type that into Google with 'manual' after it and it should net you some results on disassembly/exploded views at least.
The engine, for specifics you'd have to look up by that model number as well.
I would suggest for the moment to check your spark plug. If the car parts/big box stores aren't open, you can use fine sandpaper to remove any buildup on the electrode and the ground. Before putting your spark plug back into the engine, hook it back up to the spark plug wire, lay it on the engine, and turn the engine over (you can do this by hand, but an electric start would be easier if you've got it). If you have a spark, blue spark is best IIRC, you can narrow that out. Then move onto fuel.
Remove and disassemble the carburetor slowly and methodically. When you remove parts off of the carb, put them on a table or clean work surface in the order you remove them. Make sure to clean the bowl, float, needle, and inside of the carb with carb clean and a lint-free cloth or paper towel. Re-assemble, prime the engine, and see if she'll run.
> I like to use my snowblower though, throw some tunes on and rock out and I get to be in my own little world.
I hear you brother, I got these for yardwork, and snowblowing.