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This website use SSL certificates signed by LetsEncrypt, itself signed by another authority, etc. The certificate at the root or this signing chain expired a few months ago and your TV browser does not trust the new one, so you will see this error for all websites using LetsEncrypt for their SSL certificates.
There's not much you can do on your side if LG won't release an update of your TV browser app. Perhaps find an other browser which is still updated on their app store ?
no offence, but square block in the square hole, round peg in the round hole.
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screw on (F connector) on one end, round push on (Belling-Lee connector) on the other.
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^(I believe in you...)
Probably something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8QSWKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_F96QHSJHQ9V643T37HN7
I couldn't find the other side of the connector, so I would recommend you get the 4 set here
If you looking for over the air antenna you need this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EW098XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_rde1FbFECG07S
You need a digital to analog converter if you are trying to hook up something else.
You can go to shopjimmy.com and order replacement parts there if you look up your model. I also found this a handy device in order to test the LED strips as well as the individual LEDs on the strips with their test points. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPTQKRJ
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Control-32LE5500-37LE5500-42LE5500/dp/B00GYM7FLU looks like this remote is the replacement
If the f type connection goes to your tv antenna, you need one of these..
Or you could do what the other guy said and get a digital coverter. It will probably be cheaper than fixing the TV.
There are plenty to find in Google but here's one on Amazon for $26. They're way cheaper now than when all the old box TVs switched to digital. I paid like $60 for mine back then just so I could continue to watch public TV.
"Amazon.com: Digital Converter, Ematic Digital TV Converter Box with Recording, Playback, & Parental Controls : Electronics" https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Ematic-Recording-Playback-Parental/dp/B09N7VNBL5/ref=asc_df_B09N7VNBL5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563819730143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9704050624920075396&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm...
Amazon $19.99. I'm using it on a very heavy older 55" and a newer 50" I rescued from the curb. The 55" is heavy as hell (2011 Sony model, all metal) and it's easy to slide/rotate on the counter it sits on.
This style of stand I've used a few times, if you search thoroughly, they can often be found under $30.
I wouldn't count on the lens being a magic heat source.
2-Pack Large Fresnel Lenses Φ300mm(11.81") Focal Length 220mm Acrylic Magnifier for Solar Heating,Solar Cooking,Visual Education. (Focal Length 220mm)
Take note that if that screen is anti-glare/matte finish, then the scratch area you polish out is going to look shiny and a bit different from the rest of your screen. After seeing how your repaired area looks with the TV on, you might consider just doing the entire screen so it all matches.
with smaller TVs manufacturers cheap out and combining the main board with the power board, as such with a bad HDMI port you have to replace the whole board, aside from doing board level repair.
the board seems to be $88 on amazon, if you can find it cheaper, and the board model numbers match exactly, you might choose to repair it.
depending on the store, it might cost be more than its worth to fix it rather than buying a new TV and taking this one to an e-waste recycler.
Thanks for the advice fellas. I tried using a better HDMI cable, and I adjusted the settings in audio and the only progress that made was that it was able to increase the volume by a controller however, still no audio was coming out.
I ended up ordering this converter after a few more hours of research https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QTP7FX5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_P79PP49A1RYKG32FCVE0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If this doesn't work, I'll have to return the speakers and the converter to Amazon. I'm not a big fan of having to be some kind of tech wizard when buying something you would assume is simple like a soundbar. When I was making the purchase I specifically looked at connections and when I see something that says, hey this connects via HDMI ARC, I'm not sure I appreciate learning that it may or may not connect this way depending on X y and z factors in the cable or the television. If that's the case it needs to clearly define hey this mate not work because of XY and z factors. Pisses me off.
But thanks for the input!
This is the TV in question. One week old, does this with both xbone and ps4 but has no problem drawing white, apparently. Any ideas?
Hi, I only got around to actually trying to fix the damn thing when I could no longer communicate to the vendor about the item. Then exam time came and the time stretched out even further and I only picked it up now, so I have no way to follow up that purchase.
However, I did make some progress, as this is pretty much what I am looking for.
Ouch! You purchased ALL of the boards but not an LED tester?
At this point you might as well buy that too in order to rule out the LEDs are the problem.
Test each LED strip individually and look for any lights that don't light up and/or blink.
If all strips test fine and have the same voltage then I'd move on to doing the Tcon one connection test to see if either half of the screen works fine. (have one Tcon connection unplugged for a total of 2 tests). If one half of the screen works fine and the other does not then I'd try the tape method.
If the tape method doesn't help then your screen/panel is probably toast. Plus at that point you've exhausted all options minus doing master electrician individual component level testing.
Your backlights are definitely not working, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are the problem.
I would first check the voltage going to the LEDs from the power supply board and make sure each array output was the same. If you have no voltage out of the power supply board then replace the power supply board.
If the voltage out to the LED's looked fine then I would get out my LED tester (which I'm assuming you don't have) to verify any discrepancies with voltage to each LED array. If the LED tester shows voltage discrepancies then I'd take the TV apart and use the LED tested on each LED strip to verify which strip has the problem and replace the LED strip.
If both items check out fine then I'd do the Tcon one connection test to see if either half of the screen works fine. (have one Tcon connection unplugged for a total of 2 tests). If one half of the screen works fine and the other does not then I'd try the tape method. If the tape method doesn't help then I'd check the out put voltages from the Tcon. If those aren't good then I'd replace the Tcon board. If the output voltages are good then next step....
If both halves of the screen react the same as your initial problem them we can rule out a Tcon or screen issue. At that point I'd be taking a wishful guess and replace the main board first. If that didn't work I would replace the power supply board. If that didn't work I would recycle the TV and put the known working parts up on ebay.
Assuming you're in the UK, go and buy one of these.
You're right, a repair kit cost £20,, And a brand new z board cost £38
On eBay page, it says the fault symptoms - Q13, Q14, Q15 S/C or Poor picture quality or Red sparkles on screen. That's exactly what I am having.
I have just started learing electronics, so I use this fixes as a learning tool and to keep me movitated.
:)
Model: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01ICVLK4I/ref=pe_1909141_77686051_tnp_emaildp_1
I use the tv by connecting it to my laptop with hdmi cable. The issue started happening on its own, there was no physical damage or anything like that. I have tried keeping it powered off for some time but that didn't fix it. Also, the TV's menu etc are also flickering like this so its not an hdmi connection issue. I used to keep it on continuosly for long times (sometimes it was on for 3-4days continuosly) so could that be the cause?
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supply-RSAG7-820-7748-222172-Hisense/dp/B07TMQRVSB
Be sure to verify the part number for yourself
You can go to shopjimmy to look up your TV to see what LEDs they offer if you already got it apart at this point might as well replace them all, if you'd like to verify which strips or specific LEDs have failed you can get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPTQKRJ It's worked handy for me a few times, depending on how the strips are wired you can try to power each strip individually or each LED individually on a strip, You're going to have to take off that plastic white shield to access those test points.
This lists the capacitors for the power supply to rebuild it. https://uedata.amazon.com/WESTINGHOUSE-Monitor-repair-Capacitors-FSP273-4F01/dp/B00H7NYZ9U. Find a local Ham Radio Operator. They should be able to do it.
I tried to do a quick search for a manual and there is nothing out there for that model. GE TVs of that vintage were basically crap so keep your expectations low. Also, small sets like that rarely ever had a baseband video input (RCA composite) so the only way to get video into them is via an RF modulator. Those are not easy to find anymore but you might have one sitting around in your junk drawer. The next problem though is that no modern video devices output composite video, so you would need an adapter (plus that RF modulator).
My advice? Put it back out on the curb or cannibalize it for electronics parts.
https://www.amazon.com/PDi-Programming-Healthcare-Grade-Televisions-Compatible/dp/B07VZW7TG7
Not sure the hospital would be happy with you reconfiguring their tvs. They are locked down for a reason.
Unfortunately, they are not all the necessarily same. You'll probably want to take some measurements to make sure they'll fit. Provided they fit, those look like they should work.
Also, it probably wouldn't hurt to go with these 16V 1200uF capacitors: https://www.amazon.com/pcs-Panasonic-FM-Capacitors-1200uf/dp/B073YPSJRF/. They're similar to the ones linked above, but rated for 16V instead of 10V. In most cases it's fine to use capacitors with a higher voltage rating, provided the capacitance is the same, and in this case they're more likely to last longer.
Just to make it simple for anyone who reads this, will these above capacitors do the trick if I ordered them? Are these the correct ones, and high quality?
Like do I need to worry about the measurements too, or are they all the same?
- 10 x 20mm Lead spacing 5mm
You'll need a cable box that does the descrambling and conversion.
But their are alternatives if they decide to not pay the cash on another cable box.
I just recently purchased this HDMI to composite converter for my Sony Trinitron tv. It will allow you to use a roku or fire tv with it. A chromecast will work as well,but you can't adjust the aspect ratio. So it's disappointing watching 4:3 content on the TV and seeing black bars on the left and right of the picture.
If your tube tv doesn't have composite and only has coax, you would need an RF Modulator to allow a composite connection.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077VRY7SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_K8a1FbF49RRPP
Long story short,I'm trying to say you can teach an old tv new tricks and save money in the long run with cable.
Best of luck in finding a solution.
I think what you want is an RF Modulator.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XC9Y3VB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dWjYFbMQ64KDZ
It takes composite and converts it to coax.
If this travel tv doesn't have a coax connector and just some screws, you can use a cheap coax to f type adapter.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BW9YS4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_qYjYFb81R2RBX
Best of luck with your retro project. The links are only suggestions and examples. You can find plenty of alternatives.
There are no cracks. It's just a more prominent scratch.
I do have this kit I bough a while ago, but I can't seem to find the cloths:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU/
I do have some regular old "lint-free" cloth pieces. Can I use those or are those too abrasive?
What’s the third connector on the right there on the TV?
You’re looking to attach the cable to one of the two threaded co-ax ones on the TV, right? So you’ll need an adapter. The one from the wall is “F-type” and the TV has coax for its cable TV input.
Not sure if the F-type on the TV is for cable in or not. If it is you need a F-F gender changer(also called a barrel) if not then you need something like this:
NANYI F-Type TV Aerial Coaxial Coupler, T/F Type Screw Connector Socket to RF Coax Aerial Adapter Nickel Plating (F-Type Female - 9.5TV Male - 2PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8QJZQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wiBSFb2QZNZXW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Let me know if that doesn’t do it.
Sounds like either two things, that main power board or the LED strips....easiest thing would be to try to replace that power board to see if it changes your issue If it doesn't more than likely your LEDs are bad. That involves taking off the screen, If you're already familiar with how to remove the screen and you happen to have an LED tester like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPTQKRJ You can try to test each strip or the individual LEDs to find out which one is bad. LEDs are usually in series so if one goes bad the whole strip goes down. It could then be causing excess power to go to the rest of the LEDs which would explain the bright flash before it overloads them.
Test the strips. See which has leds out. I use one like this: TKDMR LED Lamp Bead and Backlight Tester Need to Disassemble LCD Screen All LED Lights Repair Test Output 0-260V (0-260V 2mA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPTQKRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hgKEFbZYV7S4C
Replace the whole strips, but if you wanted to you could get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPTQKRJ and use it to test each individual LED on the strip to identify which one has failed. or if you want to you could use it to test the entire strip. I recently replaced the LED strips on a 70-in Vizio I got on FB marketplace, that tool came in handy when testing the new LED strips and also finding out which LEDs cause the old strips ones to fail.
On a side note I think commenter mentioned be very careful with the sides of the panel, a 70-in pain of glass is very difficult to move and has a lot of flex so instead of lifting it up I slid it out but I accidentally pinched one of the side cables tab coming out of the LCD, didn't cause a major issue but I do have two faint lines up at the top, hardly noticeable from 10-12 ft away, but overall it was worth the $190 bucks I invested on buying and fixing that 70-in 4K TV.
This is what I'm using : https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W
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It should work, right ? My question is should I solder the coaxial to the UHF or VHF antenna
I have attached a TP roll core (or other tube) to the end of the remote and aimed it at the one I want to control.
Another way is to use an infrared (IR) repeater for one of the TV's. It picks up the IR signal via a sensor and sends it via a cable to an IR emitter which is mounted right over the TVs IR receiver. Black tape prevents the remote from activating directly. The extender is mounted far off to one side. The other TV is operated normally.
Edit: A third way is to put black electrical tape over the remote's emitter or over the TV's IR receivers. Then the remote has to be held very close to the TV before it will work. We use this method on desktops with multiple TVs.
Sorry about that! Using this LED tester: https://www.amazon.com/0-300V-Output-Backlight-Tester-Meter/dp/B01I35ENPG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488245372&sr=8-3&keywords=led+tester
That makes sense why the test points only light 10 at a time on the side lit TV. I found someone able to test a whole string of those on a similar TV with the same tester, so I figured I should be able to as well? 13:00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZypCE6slYo
I don't see any swelling on those caps, but that doesn't mean they're not bad. It'll only cost you a few cents to replace them anyway. I see there are some kits with all the caps you would need on Amazon. Of course you can get them all separately as well, but this makes it easy on you.
https://www.amazon.com/Repair-Samsung-LN46A550-Capacitors-Entire/dp/B008ADD5AG
I had this same issue, when one LED fails the whole damn thing goes out (think christmass lights) I bought this variable 30 volt DC power supply from Amazon to pinpoint which LED strip was failing and simply bypassed it. Yes, the tv does have a slightly noticeable dark spot in a certain area that only I notice, do I care? nope, the TV was free and an upgrade from a smaller older 50" 720p LCD rear projection set, also curbside.
I figure it's a good investment for future curb finds and just to have to tinker with things.
It took me a while to figure all this shit out, I pretty much bought each and every board from ebay one at a time thinking that would fix it. Was about to give up out of frustration but the fact I couldn't get it working drove me to get the transformer. Glad I did.
Does it have holes for a VESA wall mount on the back? You can get table top stands for VESA mounts. Like this.
Think something like Vizio Sound Bar (Amazon) would work?
I wonder if the headphones were plugged into it if it would cut the sound to these speakers? If not, I guess I could get one of those splitters you mentioned.