What are /r/Tailors' favorite Products & Services?

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He could use small scissors, or if very careful, a razor blade. I know professionals who use razors. If he's going to buy a tool I recommend a seam ripper. I doubt those little sewing kits include them. This is a good one.

OP: The way you use the seam ripper is to cut every few stitches with the metal end, then, if the fabric can take it, you slide the red bulb along the stitch line to break all the stitches. If the fabric is prone to tearing, cut each stitch and then gently pull out the thread.

Bear in mind, as someone else said, there may be holes left. With wool, you can steam the holes, the fibers swell and the holes are no longer visible. Shirting made from cotton or a cotton/poly blend doesn't respond like that.

I would recommend an unpicker (also called a seam ripper), you can pick one up at your local sewing shop, or just grab one from amazon like this one alternatively some of these snips would work just fine too.

For fashion design, see if she needs a croquis sketch pad. It’s a sketchbook with faintly drawn human forms in it. It’s an easy way to draw fashion ideas while you are designing.

https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Sketchpad-Templates-Designing-Portfolio/dp/0811877884/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=croquis+sketchbook&qid=1623278341&sprefix=croquis&sr=8-3

To go with it, I’d get a really nice set of colored pencils.

I am in love with hymark thread. I dont know if thats really the name but its essentially really thick, strong upholstery thread. I believe its made of nylon. I work in a costume shop for a theatre and thats what we use when we have really heavy pieces that we cant chance breaking the thread on stage. You can find it on amazon, here: https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Upholstery-Thread-150-Yard-Natural/dp/B003W0Z0GE

Edit: its Hy-Mark

There aren't any both great and easy solutions here. You could use a button extender. You could add velcro. You could replace the whole cuff, starting over with new fabric or harvesting the current cuffs for fabric using both sides (inside and outside) and fresh fabric for the part of fabric you used from the inside. To do the last one, the sleeve itself needs to be big enough at the cuff to accommodate a longer cuff, and you would need to be agreeable to two seams somewhere around the middle of the cuff.

These are herringbone pants but not pleated.

Here's a sweater shaver that's not electric.
But, like another commenter said, eventually the pants will be thread bare.

Dritz Sweater Comb Fabric Care, Dark Navy Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00281Q6C0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_34YWKSQWJY7EB2AGBFTJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If the lint roller seems to keep tugging the filling from the inside of the jacket, consider either sharp scissors or a fabric shaver, this is one example.

I really like this book called Vintage Couture Tailoring.

https://www.amazon.com/Vintage-Couture-Tailoring-Thomas-Nordheim/dp/1847973736/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=30EZS7QCQJ5X3&keywords=vintage+couture+tailoring&qid=1643381402&sprefix=vintage+couture%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-1

I own two books that have been integral to my training and ongoing curriculum — even after 30 years.

The Vogue Sewing Book (on Amazon)

And

The Science of Grading Patterns for Men's and Young Men's Clothing

Mine has footnotes from my mother and her teacher and is the 1936 edition.

You'll want a tiered skirt pattern like this one.

Make the tiers out of a lightweight, reasonably strong fabric. Each tier of your base fabric has gathered tulle sewn to the top before the tiers are sewn together.

I'm not sure but I think each tier has 2 or 3 layers of tulle. You can buy tulle in 6" or 8" rolls. It also looks like the tulle is cut in a circular shape (because the bottom of each tulle flounce appears fullers than the top. I don't know of any precut tulle that is in a circular cut.

jicjichos Women's Sweetheart Strapless Evening Dresses Satin High Slit with Pocket Long Prom Dress J212 Size 6 Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775G3859/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ya2IDb5HRJDEA

Adding tulle to this and a little belt could get you pretty close without breaking the bank! Good luck!

I have two pair of Gingher 8 Inch Left Hand Shears. They are about 15 years old, and sharpened twice by the company. Made to last if well cared for. Gingher 8 Inch Left Hand Dressmaker Shears https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZBLBOC

I have two pair of Gingher left handed 8 inch shears. They are about 15 years old and have been sharpened twice.

I have two pair of Gingher left handed 8 inch shears. They are about 15 years old and have been sharpened twice.

I would recommend trying something like Grandma's Stain Remover. Of course you'll want to test it first on a inconspicuous area first.

I believe I have looked at the SG videos in the past, but I went by the description on the website. As I wrote, video instruction is not the way to go for someone who seriously desires to pursue a tailoring career. You need to have someone experienced watching you.

As for the books, I know both and own the first edition of men's Cabrera and the women's tailoring Cabrera and disagree that the women's tailoring book you suggest is as good or as appropriate for men's bespoke as Cabrera. There is no perfect book, but to start, if I could buy only one book, I'd buy Cabrera and maybe this one, because it has excellent photos. I'm not saying the other book is bad, just that it wouldn't be my first choice.

I've taken classes with older tailors from Italy who started training after school when they were kids. I've made skirts, trousers, and jackets with fine hand tailoring methods. The recommendations I made are solid.

Great tip on the bulldog clips! Obviously once you make a hole in the leather it stays there, and I was considering using a top-marking wheel to lay out the stitch lines in advance so I could pin in locations I would re-use as I encountered them. But the clips should work out much better.

Regarding following the nap/grain of the fur for the pattern, what I'm working towards is this sort of geometry, so it's going to be six-roughly triangular pieces that join top center and run down. Do I want to make each triangle's point forward on the pelt and keep the grain running away from top center, sort of squarely down the body? Or do I want to cut the side triangles more like point at the spine and down to the belly, or does it really just depend on the actual slight nuances in the grain vs. the slight non-triangularity of the panels?

this should help

They are a pretty good set of books that has some patterns, advice on running a shop, becoming an apprentice, basic description on making up garments, etc etc etc. It's a good investment. but mostly you want to learn from a tailor really. not only will a decent tailor show you better ways than an outdated book, you'll also learn the finer points like dealing with customers and gageing how fussy or easy going they will be, noting their body shapes as well as measuring (its an art in itself) and basically learning the day to day hassles of a tailor (it can get stressful sometimes)