What are
/r/VintageApple's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/VintageApple:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/VintageApple:
OS X Daily
Debian
iCab
Facebook Marketplace
SourceForge
MorphOS
Gumtree
Endless Sky
tonymacx86.com
Google Groups
uMatrix
MacUpdate
macFUSE
CNET Download.com
WinImage
The most popular reviews in /r/VintageApple:
It looks like Debian has a PowerPC Port.
However, I wouldn't recommend using a G5 as a server. They're quite power hungry and kick out quite a bit of heat, enough to make rooms uncomfortable unless you've got an air conditioner.
I'd honestly recommend looking into an early Intel Mac Mini. Software support will be way better than the G5. Besides that, it would be quieter, smaller, more efficient, and depending on which model of G5 you have it may even be more powerful!
For Leopard it’s
defaults write com.apple.dock no-glass -boolean YES
Then
killall Dock
Poof no 3D dock. I used to have this memorized and would amaze friends and professors back in the day with my “matrix knowledge”.
I had to google it to complete it tho so thanks OS X Daily article from 2007 for the help.
I loved the EV series. My favorite thing though was editing my file to make an overpowered ship and kill ALLL the factions with the forklift.
Also, don’t tell him about this modern spiritual successor: Endless Sky
SunBow mSATA mini PCIE 8gb 16gb... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N9ZWJV2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
CY mSATA Mini PCI-E SATA SSD to... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GRMUQRG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There’s a few TORX screws to deal with as well so make sure you have the right bits.
Yes, use a dental pick to pull it out, then find a replacement "R" key cap, gluing it will not hold and ruin the keyswitch. You are looking for an ALPS style Apple keycap.
Those are generally just byteforbyte disk images. On modern Mac OS X you can use the dd utility in a terminal window with a usb floppy drive if they are 1.44MB images. http://osxdaily.com/2018/04/18/write-image-file-sd-card-dd-command-line/. Replace instances of SD with FDD
If they are 800K or 400K images you need to format a 1.44M disk as FAT, copy the files onto it, then copy them off on the older Mac to use Disk Copy to then write the images to a proper low format diskette
Yep! There's a whole board of tonymacx86 dedicated to Cube casemods (here's a nicely done example). The cube chassis fits a microATX PC board pretty easily so it's not too difficult to do. One day when I have the time and means...
Leopard Webkit is still actively developed, and likewise feels faster than TFF for most things (no small thanks to being a real Cocoa app, which sadly isn't possible with FireFox's renderer anymore). It supports HTML5 playback on YouTube using the ClickToFlash plugin, which forces most videos to load in-page using Safari's built-in QuickTime player.
That said, this browser looks really cool, and the more choice we have on these old machines the better! Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
YES: , A NEW PRAM BATTERY, UPGRADE RAM FROM 64 TO 320 MB, SWAP THE HD TO SSD 60 GB (THE LIMIT IS 128 GB), A SATA TO PATA ADAPTER (https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0817HKC6Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_RWBEVG80Z1QXMWSEDMA8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) AND A DEEP CLEANING 🧼
i've used a 50/68/80 adapter with 2 drives directly attached to it, one 68 and one 80pin. to a Mac Plus. and 3 newer machines. also with more CD drives attached to hard drives. of course the combination of SCSI drives (with or w/o their own termination, term power, et cetera) can be a problem depending on the machine/cables/boots. setting correct jumpers on the 68or80pin drive to allow for coexistence with other drives, is often necessary.
so, i recommend the [more expensive] 50/68/80 adapter with the built-in active termination. those drives linked look fine for use, 18.2 or 72GB. Fujitsu drives are also great, 10K or 15K RPM.
*this is the style: https://www.amazon.com/SCA-SCSI-Adapter-Active-Terminator/dp/B001TJ45FW
the 'SCA 80 - IDC50 Male Header, w/Active Termination' adapter linked is more appropriate and correctly priced.
I think it will work with as low as 12V from the brick (there were car adapters to run the IIc from cigarette lighters). Actually: just confirmed that it wants 9-15 V DC from the Apple IIc Technical Reference Manual (see page 234).
The internal power converter can be pulled out (it uses a card edge connector) and you can salvage the connector from that and just wire in a PC power supply or whatever (the internal converter outputs regulated 12V and 5V DC). Sadly, the pinouts for this are not given in the reference manual.
Once upon a time, I did this with my IIc when it succumbed to the strain of powering my AE Z-RAM II, Unidisk 3.5, and 10 MHz RocketChip, adding an AE heavy-duty IIe power supply. Removed the handle from the IIc and put some rubber feet on the IIe power supply, and used the power supply to prop up the back of the IIc.
I wrote up a text file on the procedure back in the day (would have been early '90s I reckon). I don't have a copy but if you can find some GEnie Apple II RoundTable archives, it's probably in there.
Edit: Found a GEnie A2 file list, it's called IIC.POWER.BXY (file 8306, Aug 26 1989). Can't find the actual file itself though...
I don't think one for the newer versions work, but I asked the Flux team and they pointed me to this version. It's nice that they still host a version that old.
Should work out of the box in OS X. OS 9 just use the stock IomegaWare drivers
Although even without the drivers, the disk should mount.
Your iBook is too new to boot OS 9 directly, but you can run most OS9 apps/games through the Classic compatibility layer in Tiger. All you'll need to use that is an OS 9 system folder, which if not installed already can be installed off the Tiger installation media or just tracked down on the internet.
As for installing Leopard, you have a few options: burn the ISO on a dual-layer DVD, shrink the installer to fit on a single-layer DVD (or track down a pre-shrunk image), or try your luck booting the installer off a USB drive. Note that PowerPC macs were never officially meant to boot from USB so that last one is a bit hit and miss.
Here's a version you could play in DosBox. No such luck on an Apple II version.
edit: looks like New York Public Library has a copy of it on 5.25!
Oho. Will recap that... thanks.
Will this discharge tool suffice to discharge the caps inside before I replace 'em?
Looking even more awesome! Love the System 7 Pro box, jealous on the one! The SoundEdit 16 is also on my list. I want all the Macromedia boxes from that era. Just got the xRES box myself. Love that insane cover art of a "bug?" riding "lizard?" with arrows in its butt? Geez that's high 90's weirdness!
Also just saw it for sale on Amazon of all places for $49. https://www.amazon.com/Macromedia-Xres-version-2/dp/B001ER8U14 .
Different ‘brands’ offer this display with varying prices. As long as it is 10.1” 1280x800 and use VGA.
I used a NiMH pack from Amazon. Cut down on the soldering.
Tenergy 9.6V Flat NiMH Battery Packs for RC Car, High Capacity 8-Cell 2000mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack, Replacement Hobby Battery Pack with Standard Tamiya Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BA292A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CJQ1MBKFNQCN1S26CEE9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I bought for my PowerMac 7500
It has no dip switches and Just Works™ with multi sync and fixed resolution displays.
68k Macs can be slightly different beasts, though. I was never able to get a Mac to VGA adapter to work with my IIsi.
Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZJSBRE6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This was a perfect fit. Just cut a piece that is long enough to cover the plastic piece over the CPU. I also replaced the paste in between that plastic piece and the die itself.
You should get it recapped before the capacitors cause damage to the boards. Also, remove the PRAM battery ASAP if you haven't already.
I had someone on the 68kMLA forums recap my logic board, and recently had the analog board in my Classic recapped by Amiga of Rochester. Amiga of Rochester did a pretty decent job quickly at a decent price. I highly recommend getting both boards recapped at the same time - I made the mistake of having my logic board recapped in May just to have the analog board die a week later. Removing the boards isn't too difficult. The logic board just slides out after you've removed the connectors and memory expansion card. The analog board is a little trickier since you have to discharge the CRT and remove the neck board and anode cap from it, but if I can do it anyone can do it.
If you haven't already, you will need a long Torx T-15 screwdriver to remove the bucket (back) from the machine. I purchased mine here.
> so I am wondering if a dongle is the way to go... and if so apparently I am limited to usb1.1... there are a few on Amazon but I would appreciate input from someone using these...
What I did for my TiBook, lots of us do for our Macs I guess, is use a USB-powered travel router like this one. Powered by your USB port, connects to the computer through the ethernet port, and then can be setup through your web browser to connect to any modern wireless network. Any computer with an ethernet port can use it, and since it's a modern wireless device it can communicate with any other networks you will find in the wild.
It's not perfect (having a tiny box connected by two cables to the laptop, tying up a USB port), but it's certainly the best option on the table at this point.
you can pick up a generic one off amazon cheap https://www.amazon.com/YTech-Adapter-Charger-Powerbook-M8943LL/dp/B01HGD3NCU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ibook+charger&qid=1560195396&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Logic board will need to be recapped. While you're in there check the analog board to see if it needs recapping too. And if there's a battery in there, get it out of it hasn't exploded already. If you don't have a T15 bit long enough, this wrench does the trick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC56XFG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Also, don't use anything metal to pry the case open or you'll mar the seams all up. I took 2 plastic spudgers from my iFixit kit and went around the case, pushing the spudgers in opposite directions.
Need documentation on tearing down the whole classic and more? Here's some info: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/mobile/folders/1nNRHshd6XhyTx6LcqyMD2iGDaqEV4Ctf
100% useless, but here is the kernel and just enough userland to go single user mode....
it runs on Qemu 0.90 which I only have for Windows.. Wine on OS X ought to run it.
I use Airtable to log my entire computer collection, not just the vintage machines. It's free, easy to use, allows me to insert pictures, and allows me to easily share certain snippets of the database publicly while keeping other parts private. If you click on a machine, you can see basic information such as manufacturer, model, model number, date acquired, pictures, condition, etc. In the private view that only I can see, there is the serial number, cost, repairs required/done, etc.
I have toyed with the idea of maintaining my collection inventory on one of my vintage Macs in Excel or some other database program (FileMaker, etc.) but I'm quite happy with Airtable for reasons previously mentioned. Since Airtable is in the "cloud" and can be accessed from anywhere with an internet connection is a huge plus.
Edit: typo
Edit 2: My only criticism with Airtable is that keeping track of add-ons, repairs required/done, etc. can be tricky since there (afaik... not really an Airtable expert) seems to be no support for tables. That's where Excel and other databases shine. Then again, I guess I could keep track of all of that in a separate Excel spreadsheet.
First, I'd just like to point out that if you have an Apple store near by, you can just make an appointment, and they will install Mac on your computer. Should be free.
That aside, I don't know if transmac will be sufficient. Assuming transmac doesn't work out, I would recommend running Mac in virtual box ⟶ instructions on how to do that. You can then mount the USB drive to Mac on virtual box, and use the built in partition app (Disk Utility) to write InstallESD.dmg to USB.
FYI InstallESD.dmg is the important part of the install OSX app you can get from the App Store. Assuming you can't get that for whatever reason. Your main option would be to torrent the installer for the version of OSX you want.
Actually, things could also be easier if you could at least boot into the installer section of the USB backup you made. Do you have that? If so, let me know, and I can write up what to do.
Oops. Just realised I totally posted the wrong link to the Cube. Sorry all.
CORRECT LINK HERE: https://www.gumtree.com/p/desktop-workstation-pcs/apple-power-mac-g4-macintosh-computer-desktop/1225968344
The businessman in me wants to snap this up and sell on/split and sell, but I already have a cube and screen and would rather see someone who will really appreciate it grab one of these beauties at a very good price (plus I'm very much not in the area....so can't be bothered trying to arrange getting it up to Scotland!).
For anyone else wanting a B&W 15-inch flat panel display for their B&W G3 I also saw this going for £45: https://www.gumtree.com/p/desktop-workstation-pcs/apple-mac-power-g4-with-monitor-m8493/1223773958
Tinker Tool! I use it on all my Macs to customize all kinds of stuff - the Dock, Finder behavior, Time Machine (you can disable Time Machine constantly prompting to set itself up on every external drive you plug in), and other fun stuff.
well, current state :
- wifi-to-ethernet works
- SOCKS don't
TL;DR : there are multiple ways to proxy traffic, and i've yet to pick one :
- using mitmproxy with a custom script -> running python on my pi (first gen, 512mb) is a huge pain
- write a custom SOCKS -> maybe
honestly at this point i'm just waiting to see whether people are interested or not, because cross-compiling is awful :/
EDIT : discovered this on the NewtonTalk mailing list. might be useful!
Pro tip from /r/datahoarders - Amazon Drive unlimited is only $60/year if you want a cloud backup. People on that subreddit will use an awesome tool to called RClone ( https://rclone.org ) to encrypt and sync the data, although I get the feeling Amazon's copyright scanners for their Drive product are probably much less discriminating than YouTube's, so these would probably escape it.
You might try this: Mr Clean Magic Eraser Variety Pack, Includes Bath, Kitchen, & Extra Durable Cleaning Pads, 12 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QTZRFYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GX1WV89EFHMZHT4TR0CS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It worked for me to clean up a Thinkpad
I'll also add that mine did almost the same thing yours did when using this IDE adapter with a brand new SSD.
I thought my Powerbook died as half through install the machine would just turn off. If I removed the battery and left it unplugged over night I would be able to boot again and attempt another install but the machine would always get rather hot and continue to fail with the only route to getting the thing to boot again was repeating the steps above.. I exchanged the SSD twice with the same issues reoccurring. I finally exchange the IDE adapter for the same one and the problem was gone.
I'm trying to upgrade I this G3 I got off Marketplace for free as a bit of fun.
I've put in a 120GB SSD and using this SATA to IDE adaptor.
After trying to partition and initialise the SSD an error comes up saying the initialisation failed. Now when I reboot it gets stuck on this grey screen with just the pointer. The keyboard and power button don't work so I can only turn it off by cutting the power.
If I try using startup commands I get the flashing folder briefly before going to this screen.
I've put a new PRAM battery in and am using a burnt OS 9.2 CD.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The glass is pretty strong, it was made to hold up a monitor - the weight capacity is 88 lbs according to the manufacturer. https://smile.amazon.com/Computer-Monitor-Adjustable-Desktop-Notebook/dp/B07DGPBHKH/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=glass+monitor+stand&qid=1623954896&sr=8-6
Sabrent Aluminum USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed [Black] (AU-EMCB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XM883BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GTPZF434G2NWNT0C0EMV
This is the one I got. And yes, no boot chime which is a shame. Does anyone know an inexpensive workaround for getting the boot chime? Thanks!
Well, I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Cream-Peroxide-Developer-Ounce/dp/B0083LJ1XK/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=peroxide+12%25+cream&qid=1619657087&sr=8-7
So yeah. Almost a product, in fact, one could market this stuff as Retr0bright. :-)
The only issue is that the paint on a vintage machine will have oxidised and the new paint most likely won’t match.
There’s actually little devices that you can get that will tell you the colour of an item. It has a calibrated camera and light in it.
101AV Security 18.5 HD LCD Security Monitor HDMI VGA & BNC Input Build in Speaker Audio Video Display Computer PC monitor for CCTV DVR Home Office Surveillance Optional Mount https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00COT8K70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4CV3ZYR4Q0JH7Y9YCPFQ
There seems to be lots of options.
The SATA M.2 to 44-pin 2.5" IDE Adapters are on amazon and ebay, but they seem to all be coming from China. No US distributors... so they're obviously not very numerous... which makes me a little uneasy to choose this path in case I ever have a failure. Still an option that I'm considering! :)
What's crazy is that you can still buy these new with only minor tweaks to the interfaces.
https://www.amazon.com/Harman-Kardon-Soundsticks-III-Multimedia/dp/B0042F3K9W
https://www.amazon.com/Harman-Kardon-SoundSticks-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B008YFD5G4/
I'd recommend sending the boards off to be recapped if you're not good at soldering or electronics re-work. I recently had the analog board in my 1991 Macintosh Classic recapped by Amiga of Rochester and it has been working fine since. (I had the logic board recapped by someone else earlier this year.) Amiga of Rochester did a pretty good job, was good about communicating and did it at a really decent price. He's located in New York, and I think he could do both the boards in the Classic and the IIGS.
As Steve mentioned, remove the PRAM battery ASAP in both machines. They can (and, eventually, will) leak leading to damage to the logic board... sometimes destroying it beyond repair. To do that you will need the Torx T15 screwdriver he mentioned, which can be purchased here. You can leave the PRAM battery out. I know for sure the Classic is fine without one (just won't keep date/time and brightness) but I don't know about the IIGS (but if I had to guess, the IIGS should be fine as well.) You can also order a replacement battery to install, if you want.
Removing the logic board in the Classic is easy... you remove the memory expansion card (if equipped), disconnect all the wiring going to it, and it just slides out. The analog board in the Classic is a little more difficult, requiring you to discharge the CRT and carefully work around the CRT. But if I can do it, I'm pretty sure anyone can do it. You just have to very careful around the CRT as not only can it contain high voltages (until discharged) but is also very delicate and easy to break.
I'd highly recommend having both the analog and logic boards recapped at the same time. I made the mistake of having the logic board recapped and was kicking myself a week later when the analog board failed.
I haven't measured it or anything but USB 2.0 by way of the PCMCIA card is definitely noticeably faster than the USB 1.1 ports built into the PowerBook. The card I bought also has power port that you can connect to a USB port in case you're hoping to use devices that require more power.. but I haven't tested it and probably wont any time soon. This is the card I purchased, took over a week to come from China but it works and looks pretty great in the slot:
Maybe I'm not doing enough to optimize it but I haven't noticed any performance gain with the SSD. I suspect it's just that PATA is the bottleneck more than anything. I just wanted the reliability of SSD vs a mechanical drive. I also kind of don't care too much about speed as this was all just for fun in the end.
Technically I suppose any of them should work, but preferably/for best results it should:
-- not be a widescreen
-- have either a 4:3 or 5:4 aspect ratio
-- support at least 640x480 or 800 x 600 or 1024 x 768
-- probably be 17" or less
I have an old Dell 15" flat panel/lcd that works fine (it might be an E151FP but I wouldn't swear to it), however my 19" Samsung syncmaster 914v (ca. 2004) refused to cooperate.
P.S.
I have a Power Mac 6100 with HDI-45 to DA-15 and DA-15 to VGA that is how I know the above. It was a number of years ago and I purchased my mac-vga adapter from some amazon seller. I believe this may be the one:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-DB15-Male-HD15-Female/dp/B0016OC1J2/ (SF Cable?)
Here are some pictures I took a year or two ago of the manual that came with the adapter (it's a dip switch model):
https://imgur.com/a/YaWST
The very last picture should apply to the adapter above (Mac <-> IBM, DB-15 to HD-15, 10 dip switches)
P.P.S.
If I had to guess why some don't work it probably has to do with non-standard mac resolutions, different sync frequencies, and possibly sync on green.
Assuming it has a proper VGA connector and not the DB-15 of old, all you need is a VGA to HDMI adapter. All you have is analog VGA to choose from. If you have an older DVI Monitor, it needs to support DVI-A, which is analog VGA over the four analog pins.
Converting to HDMI from VGA requires a $13 adapter from Amazon (as an example).
Was just talking about the 1400 series to a friend yesterday. A few guys in an office I worked at had them, but they didn't like them -- couldn't convince these guys that you could not hot-swap the CD & floppy modules.
One of them sprang for the ZIP drive one (Amazon) and he was the king of the office for a while. :)
You need something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Powersonic-Volt-Rechargeable-Sealed-Battery/dp/B00BN69U24
Fits inside the og battery case and you can solder some leads to the og terminals for Charging/running. Also get a 6v charger So the old power pack doesnt flip out trying to charge it. I have two Upgraded batteries and they work just fine.
Www.digikey.com Listed as count x description with part number. So just type the p/n into search and add that count to cart. Bonus is an amazon link to the battery I bought and use but you should be able to get that via Digikey.com as well. Most The caps used are non electrolytic and should be for life. (
9x 47uF 16v Alum Poly: 493-14287-1-ND
2x 10uF 16v Alum Poly: P123684CT-ND
4x 1uF 50v Alum Elec (don’t have polymer): 493-2294-1-ND
3x 470uF 25v Axial Alum. Elec: 4037PHCT-ND
4x 100uF 25v Standard: P14413-ND
1x 220uF 25v Standard: P124223-ND )
battery is a 6v5ah sealed led acid: https://www.amazon.com/Casil-CA640-Battery-Lithonia-ELB06042/dp/B07WTMHBN4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=6v+5ah&qid=1593702645&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTkFXRTRHT0UzRkNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzM5NzI5...
Also, remove the PRAM battery ASAP. They're notorious for leaking, and can destroy the logic board (among other things) if they fail. To open the case you'll need a long Torx T15 bit like this one. You'll need the long bit because there are two screws way down inside the handle. Using a plastic spudger (I use a plastic bicycle tire lever) you can force the two halves of the case apart. You can also push down on the screws in the handle once loosened to separate the halves of the case, but I found that didn't always work.
Once the bucket (back part of the case) is removed, removing the logic board is easy. First, you'll need to remove the memory expansion daughter-card (if equipped), which just pulls out. Then there is the floppy and hard drive connectors, which just come off. Lastly, there's the main power/video cable from the analog board which is a molex plug - just unplugs as well. After all of the cables are removed, you can slide the board out and pry the battery out of the plastic holder.
When working inside of the machine, be careful. The CRT and analog board can contain high voltage even with the computer unplugged and turned off. The CRT is also fragile (especially the neck) so be careful not to put any pressure on it or hit it.
Follow up to this with more details, it uses Alps SKCM orange or salmon switches. To clean the board I would recommend disassembling it (there should be some screws in the bottom) to remove the housings to soak in soapy water and give a good scrub. You can retrobrite while doing this if you'd like (and get the space-bar while you're at it).
As for the keycaps, they can be removed with a keycap puller or something similar (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Stainless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Magicforce/dp/B01HPC88HM/ ). Just make sure you're pulling straight up and possibly wobble the cap slightly to get it loose, alps sometimes like to hang on and you don't want to snap the stems off. They can be soaked in tap hot water with a gentle dish soap and may need to be agitated to get heavier dirt off and then air-dried.
The internals of the board can be brushed out or cleaned with compressed air. If there's residue that won't brush or blow out, q-tips with isopropyl alcohol to clean up. Don't submerge or soak the internal PCB and switches. You will get liquid in them that will bring and trap dirt/dust and/or corrode contacts in the switches.
There's ways to clean the actual internals of the key-switches too, but that requires being a lot more careful and not bending small metal leafs or damaging switch plates. I can explain that a bit if you're interested.
I bought my G4's replacement power adapter on Amazon.
I mail quite a few floppy disks. When they're just single or maybe a pair, I use these mailers. They work really well for one or two 5.25" too.
It looks like those are out of stock right now, but I'm sure you can find similar ones. Just make sure they're rigid.
>Have you confirmed that this KVM can handle a >1080p signal?
Yes, up to 4K @ 60hz link
>What video card are you using?
Radeon RX 580 (has Dual Link DVI, 2 HDMI, 2 Display Ports)
Thanks for the product suggestion. Link I mentioned, I've tried two other active adapters with no luck. Those both had an extra USB wire hanging off, presumably for power. The one you suggested is different, so I'll give it a shot.
Okay, starting a new comment. My brain has been backward and thinking about this wrong.
So, you have a KVM that only supports HDMI. Have you confirmed that this KVM can handle a >1080p signal? If it can't, then all of this is moot.
Also, you say it's a Mac 5,1 - a 2010 "Nehalem/Westmere" Mac Pro? What video card are you using? Because AFAIK, none of those came with a video card that had an HDMI port. Does your video card support >1080p over HDMI?
That also isn't in your diagram. Make sure to include all the bits.
So what we want is:
💻 (HDMI) -> KVM Switch (HDMI) -> (something) -> mDP-to-DL-DVI adapter -> 🖥️ 30" CD (DL-DVI)
Assuming the video card in the Mac Pro and the KVM switch both support HDMI 1.3 or higher (the minimum version to support >1080p), AND you're using HDMI 1.3-certified HDMI cables…
Where I have (something) try an HDMI to miniDisplayPort active adapter - plug the HDMI port into the KVM switch's "monitor" out port, plug the mDP-to-DL-DVI adapter into this device's mDP female port.
I'm not positive, but probably something like this
I'm kinda dumb and found it pretty easy. You should do it. No real wiring involved, I just put an extension cord inside the case. You need an empty shell (eBay), a mac mini (get a used intel one for cheap), and an 8" monitor like this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0818SMCWC/
I mounted the monitors by screwing in 10x1 or 8x1 sheet metal screws into the mounting posts (screw holes) around the monitors, then I used aluminum tape to secure the monitor to the screws, around the corners. This is my second or third time remounting one of them. I've tried to make real brackets and it's tough.
The sheet metal screws slightly wreck the screwholes, but if you're careful, it comes out fine. I can take the screws out and put them back in, no problem.
This is the newer one that I've placed in the black mac: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0818SMCWC/
It's connected over HDMI. The M1 macs seem fussy about screen res. I suspect native res is 1024x768 but I can't get it to do that. It wants to do 1080P squished. Instead I'm doing 1280x1024 and while them are some tiny pixels (and maybe not native res) it works fine. I wish I could do 640x480.
The Mac SE/30 has an Eyoyo 8" monitor. That does run at 1024x768, but I suspect that's because it's hooked to an Intel mac, instead of an M1 Mac. I tried to put an Eyoyo 8" monitor in the black mac, but Amazon sent me one with a dead row of pixels, so I returned it and got this other one instead.
This is the newer one that I've placed in the black mac: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0818SMCWC/
It's connected over HDMI. The M1 macs seem fussy about screen res. I suspect native res is 1024x768 but I can't get it to do that. It wants to do 1080P squished. Instead I'm doing 1280x1024 and while them are some tiny pixels (and maybe not native res) it works fine. I wish I could do 640x480.
The Mac SE/30 has an Eyoyo 8" monitor. That does run at 1024x768, but I suspect that's because it's hooked to an Intel mac, instead of an M1 Mac. I tried to put an Eyoyo 8" monitor in the black mac, but Amazon sent me one with a dead row of pixels, so I returned it and got this other one instead.
Just pick a year. I just found Poker in the Feb 5,2008. Look to the left and right of this for other links, for PPC also links for Intel. https://web.archive.org/web/20080205070323/http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/games/cards_puzzle/imaginepoker.html
You can make a bootable Tiger install USB. These instructions are for Snow Leopard but should apply to Tiger as well. It'll be slow as hell because USB 1.1, but it will work.
The easiest thing might be to connect the G4 on the same network, transfer the .dmg to it using FTP or File Sharing for example, and burning it from 10.4.11 using Disk Utility or Toast Titanium.
But from macOS 10.12 does this work? http://osxdaily.com/2015/11/22/burn-disc-images-os-x-finder/
If not, any decent DVD burning software would burn a .dmg.
I have vague memories of just inserting a Mac OS X install CD, then booting the machine with the CD and there was an option to reset the password? This website is what I was thinking of: http://osxdaily.com/2010/02/21/reset-a-lost-password-in-mac-os-x/
Here's the one that's in my PowerBook: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095HSGN49/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I do think this is an OK solution, but the claims that the IDE bus can take advantage of the speeds are greatly exaggerated. You're going to be limited to Ultra ATA 66 or 100, so you'll be lucky to move either 66 or 100 MB/s.
Thank you for giving your time! Today I’ll try to re place the hard drive, maybe the connector isn’t well-placed.
The mSATA option really attracted me, never seen heard before and I want to try it out. Would these works? enclosure
if you opened it up its done for unfortunately. the something was probably an air filter. if it works it wont for long
if youre wanting to use this it might be worth getting an ide to CF adapter, something like this
ive never actually used one myself so i cant recommend one, this is just the first link on amazon i found so i have no idea if its any good but it'll be like an SSD for your ibook
https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/archer-t2u/ 10.9 or newer, in other words Intel only, no PPC.
Look for something older that can still do wpa2. Or get a wifi to ethernet bridge, I use this thing for anything too old for wpa2 security. https://www.amazon.com/Vonets-VAP11G-300-Wireless-Multi-Functional-Amplifier/dp/B014SK2H6W
I'm in the same boat lol. I wonder if this adapter will work, since it's cheaper than what was linked: https://www.amazon.com/AkoaDa-convertidor-auriculares-computadoras-dispositivos/dp/B089NJPSXN/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_2_5/138-0320513-4935149?pd_rd_w=2apNA&content-id=amzn1.sym.b30e4c74-5a4f-4154-8d95-a6744a519e0c&pf_rd_p=b30e4c74-5a4f-4154-8d95-a6744a519e0c&pf_rd_r=SREN590CDR1ZZA0S1WZG&pd_rd_wg=7Iny8&pd_rd_r=1d78730d-3d9f-47b6-9e7c-4f6d5e08cee5&pd_rd_i=B089NJPSXN&th=1
Just uploaded the mount, simple print that allows you to tape/glue it onto a stand or even the apple if you want and the emulator just slots right in, there is enough room behind it to have the cable run there or around the stand if needed.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5527149
the stand can be bought here on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095RZP2D6
Get a quality screwdriver that fits properly, push in really hard and do not let it slip. These tend to pop loose. A manual strike type impact screw driver would be a final option.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05008720001-Kraftform-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B0035YLT0S (I think that is the right size)
A lot of these older Mac laptops used a modified kind of RCA that uses a TRS jack in the middle instead of the single solid pin that common RCA uses. You can see some of it in the closeup of this 3rd party adapter.
The res is 1024x768. Not bad for running OS 7-9 in emulation, even though it is not the original res.
Here's the screen I used - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY89XPT
I used sheet metal screws and big metal washers (as spacers) to wedge the screen in using the original screw holes. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it.
With vintage computers, after how many repairs and replacements is it still the original computer?
In this picture, the MacTV not he RIGHT is 100% original stock.
The one on the LEFT, has an original MacTV front bezel, the back comes from a 550 (painted). The motherboard is a MacTV.
I had an old Performa 550 that was damaged in shipping, seller gave me 100% refund and I painstakingly pieced it back together with ABS cement. I also had a front bezel for MacTV that I bought on eBay. So is this a MacTV or a 550? or something beautiful and new?
Thanks to u/womtp246 who did this post on painting his MacTV. He pointed me to this paint which is a perfect match for the MacTV!
Hi! I got this Cinema Display 20" I'm trying to use as a second monitor with my M1 Mac.
It's in really good condition and I'm pretty sure it's not broken (it worked before I got it), but I'm having trouble connecting it to the Mac. It does some very severe ghosting (things only need to not move for a few seconds and they'll remain visible for multiple minutes) as well as other weird visual artifacts.
I'm using this DVI to USB C adapter, which has plenty of people it its comments saying it's working perfectly for them with similar setups. I'm not sure why I'm doing wrong, some help would be appreciated. Thank you :)
I tried that adapter too, but ended up returning it. I've had better luck with an Apple DVI -> HDMI adapter and one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LMX8WJ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got two modded displays just like that (Marketing department was throwing them out). They've got digitizers on them, so they're touchscreen (inaccurate digitizers), but Ok, for the occasional finger swipe.
I've got a Mac Studio and with adapters, I'm running a 50" TV, Apple Thunderbolt Display, Apple Cinema Display, and a giant ultra-wide LG. Just try a few, amazon has a fantastic return policy.
Correct that’s good old OBS.
I use a generic USB video grabber from Amazon with a Scart and Composite video in. Would be lying to say I’m happy with it. For instance I need the VCR to make it work… I’m tempted to get a retrotink but can’t justify the cost quitte yet (to much neat old stuff I can buy for that money). Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B07YPRCZXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Correct that’s good old OBS.
I use a generic USB video grabber from Amazon with a Scart and Composite video in. Would be lying to say I’m happy with it. I’m tempted to get a retrotink but can’t justify the cost quitte yet (to much neat old stuff I can buy for that money). Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B07YPRCZXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you want to gamble, you can also get this 100pk of no-name azo dye disks. Only downside is that they're a liquidator selling a repackaged mix of legit and knockoff disks so you'll get a decent number of coasters on verify from the crap knockoffs.
Get azo dye CD-Rs. They have significantly higher contrast than newer CD-R dye formulation and read better in old drives. Only downside is that they're expensive, and since new drives can handle the low contrast dyes, nobody really makes them anymore.
Kingwin SSD/SATA to IDE Bridge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZDOM6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
As mentioned above, I haven’t tried it yet. One good thing about this versus others is that it ships in a plastic clamshell vs anti static bag which has no protection from Amazon shipping geniuses.
SCSI is a daisy chained system, where one device plugs into another which plugs into another and into another. The last device on the chain needs to be terminated with either a physical SCSI terminator or sometimes via a dip switch that indicates it's the last device.
I would strongly advise against it, system is designed for 7.5V (well, 7.5-7.8)... higher amperage than the original 2A is fine, but find yourself a 7.5V adapter - one of those cheap adjustable ones would work, like this (which is 3A max) https://www.amazon.ca/Universal-Adapter-Supply-Router-Speaker/dp/B08ZN9PF6P/ref=pd\_lpo\_1?pd\_rd\_i=B08ZN9PF6P&psc=1
They are indeed center positive.
To pile on to this, I’ve used a LaCie USB floppy drive for ages to make Mac floppies, the 706018 which can still be bought new.
Highly recommended, though typically I’m transferring the other way (something written in Nissus Compact, copied to floppy, then moved into OS 9 or X for final editing/layout) these days.
I think I put a 32GB Kingspec one in, if my memory serves me correctly. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KingSpec-2-5-inch-Solid-SM2236-Controller/dp/B008RVN97A/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=2GAF3MJ0XACBQ&keywords=kingspec+IDE&qid=1655141555&sprefix=kingspec+ide%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-2
Which pdf? One from MacIntosh Repository has 3 files; Installation, User guide and Quick reference.
https://www.macintoshrepository.org/download.php?id=2370
If that's not enough, you can get a book.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AppleWorks-Missing-Manual-Jim-Elferdink/dp/156592858X
OP's B&W probably has a DB-15 video card. Easiest thing to do would be to get an adapter like this
Just a basic 3 foot RCA Male / RCA Male composite video cable, here's one example I found quickly on Amazon. A longer one would let you reposition the monitor further away. You'll also often see these in rummage boxes of cables at a thrift store. for a buck.
SinLoon CF to 50pin 1.8 Inch IDE AdapterCompact Flash Merory Card to 50pin 1.8 Inch IDE Hard Drive SSD Converter Adapter for Toshiba(cf to 50 IDE f) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YSJ12T3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GREAWTZFDMT6R3706RP9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
CY SD SDHC SDXC to CF Compact Flash Memory Card Adapter Reader Type I 16/32/64/128GB CF to SD Card Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JYXNW22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0CE23XHKYX5P8NXMHNW3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LCULWOE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I ended up getting the first one for less than $100... and then I broke it... and now it's more expensive... hah. It's not a PERFECT fit but it doesn't scale (i.e.: stretch) 4:3 resolutions so it worked great for this project.
Super neat 😎, dude that's one awesome project and looks great 👍.
Followed you on twitch like 1.5months ago after the great advice on the RGB2HDMI and HDMI capture setup and midi stuff. I have an original mac a mug floppy (no box though) that works to lol.
Cheers man, hope to catch you someday on live stream would be neat to see my old friend the Mac plus used one from preschool to almost 5th grade until it eventually failed (how many hours on that machine and traveled the country a few times when we moved).
I got a replacement Mac plus ( this was a platinum one and sold a couple years ago still worked) ; I still have the keytronic Mac pro Plus keyboard that works with ADB and (rj-11 plug coiled old school one.
Gear:
RGB2HDMI github: [ HDMI Capture stick: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08HGZF6X9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also needed is your own Pi Zero (T_____T) good luck!
I've had good luck with this style: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SK7G4ZB
They are the perfect length to mount right on top of the original holes. I've installed several of these from Mac SE to iMac G3.
ChenYang CY SATA Disk to IDE/PATA 40Pin Motherboard Converter Adapter PCBA for Desktop & 2.5 3.5" Hard Disk Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GM69L31/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C2ZS084XYS3MRAX088C2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1