What are /r/Woodworkingplans' favorite Products & Services?

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Yes

https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Washers-130mm-Furniture-Connecting/dp/B07955RNLV/ref=sr_1_30?dchild=1&keywords=Bunk+Bed+Bolts&qid=1610650136&sr=8-30

This is what the bunkbed that My family had growing up used.

OK, is there room to move the smaller desk left and right?

If so you could use dowels to align the desks when in use, only glue them in one of the desks.

And use something like this underneath to hold them together.

If you can’t return them, get one of these: EasyGo Deck Board Bending Bow Straightening Tool – GUARANTEED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787HSW6N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7CYX6ZT34DY1EBN91XWN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There are lots of old tricks from old carpenters like me, but try searching the Fine Homebuilding magazine archives online and you’ll find lots of them as well as things you should know about laying decking, such as trimming the ends of the boards square so they won’t fit badly and to space the board edges apart using a nail or screw so they can swell and contract from rain and moisture without pushing into one another.

These are what I used on a bunkbed for my kid. Built almost two years ago, and moved cross country. Anchored into pine and are still tight.

Your plans are overkill.

I would use these instead of your plans. 2x4basics 90164MI Custom Work Bench and Shelving Storage System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NFT7SWZ4X102AQDQPYG9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Saves on lumber. You can make it any size. Comes apart easily if you need to disassemble. You don't have to fasten the table top and it won't move (sits in groves.)

ZJchao Heavy Duty Retractable Closet Pull Out Rod Wardrobe Clothes Hanger Rail Towel Ideal for Closet Organizer Polished Chrome (40cm/ 15.7 Inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LVQ8B0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0A0PGJZMYH19Z23D0530?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

43€ on Amazon. I have been eyeing this item for a while now. Let us know how you solved the cutters.

Here are the dimensions.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09Q12GJK1/?coliid=I12GEUAAKN9LJO&colid=3GDY15ZVGFGA7&psc=1&ref\_=lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it

Ive also been thinking of a similar design for a corner desk! nothing i find is wide enough.

i went and bought these desk legs thinking i would just get two pieces of wood the sizes i want and attach them.

but now im rethinking it. they are bit expensive and i should be able to find a way to make stable, non moving, legs that do the same job, but i want it to be stable.

im considering hairpin legs at the corners, and then one across the seam between the boards, but im not sure yet.

https://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-free https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u80grW1zjOw

Take the time, and learn sketchup. But you should be able to pull that off, and just wing it. I always find out something I didn't realize, when I build it in Sketchup.

Besides the upvote, I would have to second the recommendation of trying out onShape. They even also have available ‘mortise and tenon’, ‘box joint’, ‘dovetail’, ‘Lap joint’ features that “automate” the creation of those joints.

Another plus is the ability to share and collaborate on a design.

If you are worried about function before form… here is what i would do…

Take the 2x4 or 4x4 stock and cut to length you prefer. I’d probably use the 4x4.

drill 1.5” holes equidistant along the stock (forstener bit could work well.) I may not drill them fully through.

Cut the dowels to length

Glue dowels into stock

Here is where some options come into play…

If using a 4x4, glue alone could maybe work

or

you drill a 1/4 hole down through the top of the stock and the 1.5” dowel and drive a 1/4” dowel like a mortise & tenon

or

you drive a screw through the back of the stock into the endgrain of the dowel and call it a day (this would be a weaker joint. i wouldnt do this one)

or

get some kind if smaller, long screw and drive it through the back and into the dowel at an angle (pocket screws could maybe work).

by no means am i an expert… i’d probably go woth the 1/4” dowel method myself.

IRWIN 1966934 Irwin Marples Wood Drilling Forstner Bit, 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JIKBKT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A2Y50DMH2Q1PK7F0F4KF?psc=1

Your aunt might not like it. But in a similar situation I used security plate like Defender Security U 9551 Lock and Door Reinforcer, Stainless Steel – Fits 1-3/4” Doors, 2-3/8” Backset, Reinforce & Repair Wood/Metal Doors, Add Extra Security to Your Home,Helps Prevent Forced Entry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OFTIL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RPHW5PK1VJ9NDP9HAP9A

Depending on the quality you want, you might be able to get a closet dowel rod

They are common in most hardware stores here, but YMMV. They also don't look the best all the time but if you only need a foot long section it could work.

I would build 4 separate units with backs and then mate them together on the wall. Use a strip of wood or molding to cover the seam. This construction allows you to screw the shelves in place through the sides. MDF tends to split, so predrill or use these specialty screws that are incredibly strong and made for MDF. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTT3PS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J7SBWH2AAM9DYBN0GHM4 Get the special pilot bit too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ASBBSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RD4C2AERRV4A8AY3C54S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Glue a thin (3/16") strip of hardwood to the front edge of the shelves before assembly. Plane or sand flush and ease the edges. Make a one piece, continuous base to set the cabinets onto. Level it with shims and fasten to floor. Your cabinets will set on this nice and level. Remember to make some allowance for a molding at the top. Paint and enjoy!

Hey, after my 14.4 mv batteries died I replaced with these on Amazon. They work awesome. No longer available but maybe the brand will be helpful for those needing XRP replacements.

Upgraded to 3.6Ah 14.4V Replacement for XRP Ni-Mh Battery DC9091 DW9091 DW9094 DE9091 DE9092 Cordless Power Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWSHW1L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SWY9PG025BYSYYSMRFQB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Most wireless chargers say they work up to 10mm or so. If you don't have a phone case on, that's still plenty of material left I would think.

There's also other solutions like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6SM54P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZQzaGbGFVMXNR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 But it's not nearly as clean or hidden.

Then there's some expensive hardware like this that claims to work up to 30mm through wood or stone. https://master-charge.co.uk/buy/mastercharge-wireless-charging-pad-10w/

I have a 20' x 20' shop in a two car garage. I have multiple cabinets that can roll around. I use these. They would work perfectly on that bench. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX3T2LO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have a router, you can use the bits for making raised panel doors. These will give tge inside moldings parts and the fitting of your two inside rails. Route the inside edge of your top, bottom, and ends. Then cut your 45's. The two inside pieces will have same pattern routed on sides but the end will be routed with the negative bit so it sits nicely. link to bits I'm talking about

MDF dust is not safe. https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/faq-mdf.htm I would be wary of the dust if I were you. I will not work with it. It isn't asbestos unsafe, but unsafe none the less. Use an N95, or P100. This is the mask I use. Get some extra filters. This is not an organic or gas mask, but when I use spray paint, I can not smell the paint (my own test). Get some extra filters. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=p100+respirator+mask&qid=1600940985&sr=8-11

I realize this doesn't pertain to your question but these were perfect for taking apart and putting back. I made a canopy bed and these were necessary for the top rails to change curtains.

link

This was kind of lazy but instead of slats I kept bed on frame rails and used this to connect the frame to the footboard.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Pocket-System-Pocket-Hole-Screw/dp/B00ZVE8Q2Y That even comes with more than enough screws to get you through a few projects. I build my kitchen cabinets without it and I regret it every time I open a drawer. So much time wasted and depths messed up and material wasted. Highly recommend it if you can make it work. Look at it like this. You will eventually be buying it regardless. So save the $40 and get the whole package. The small one does have uses. Like if you want to add a pocket hole in you can jimmy it into place and clamp it down. So I’m going on at this point, I built my cabinets with small jig, but the big guy is so worth it.

there are several handheld dowel jigs on Amazon for about 15 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1319-JointMate-Handheld-Dowel/dp/B01M8L1WVN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=handheld+dowel+jig&qid=1583094459&sprefix=handheld+dowe&sr=8-3

These see what hold many of the crates together that come across my dock https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-2636-Butterfly/dp/B00JQYUVA0/ref=asc_df_B00JQYUVA0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167142056815&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13844684363498835333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h...

FOLAI Adjustable Waterproof Replacement Shoulder Strap Replacement Shoulder Straps Adjustable Belt for Shoulder Bag Backpack Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VZXDM5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_86MiDbNYCQHCC

I would try these straps out especially since they’re only $12 or so. Then just secure them to the backboard. I personally would just use some eyelets to run the strings through. The rest should be pretty easy. Hope this helps

> collapsible tube ring

What, like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Collapsible-Changing-Dressing-Carrying/dp/B01B4K8W54

You know, the internet is a wonderful place. A quick five minute google search would get you what you need.

Woodworking Project Paper Plan to Build Glider Chair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00491HSSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bskUzbF9YBJVA

Check the local library. I ran across a book about clockmaking there. I didn't find the projects I wanted in it--but hey, it was free.

I ended up buying a book from Amazon, and there were some neat designs in there. Here's the link

OP here. I've done a bit of searching and I found Option 1 and Option 2 from Amazon. They are the style that I'm looking for, but I want them bigger and better. I do like the idea of having cabinet doors instead of drawers. That way, I can make the shelves adjustable in case I have lots of boots or lots of flip flops.

Taklon Brushes roughly $30.00 properly thinned.

Purdy - ox hair. $20.00 (Home depot, Lowes) http://www.amazon.com/Purdy-144300020-Ox-O-Thin-Ox-Hair-Bristle/dp/B000YD318G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458342554&sr=8-3&keywords=purdy+ox+hair

Don't spend a bunch of money on a brush if you don't know how to clean one up. Practice makes perfect.