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I got a steel header for my 4.0L and had great success.
The stock header is cast iron, which is brittle, and the ebay ones are steel which doesn't crack nearly as easily.
I ordered some from Napa last year. Looks like Amazon has some. Any local parts store should be able to order them as well.
Note: The left and right may be different.
The thermostat should be a 195*, so anywhere from 195-210 but... I have a Flex-A-Lite adjustable thermostatic switch (I paid $19 for it) and have it cranked down as low as it goes (180*). With the inefficiency of the probe through the fins, it turns it on at around 208-ish and drops the temp down to 197. While driving with the fan off it sits at 197-ish.
here’s the amazon link to what I used
I think the combination of Royal Purple full synthetic and the liqui moly broke down a lot of the crap. When I cut open my filter I took a magnet to it to see if it was metal shavings that I saw on my dipstick, nothing stuck to it. Whatever it was there was A LOT of it. After flushing it out with some cheap O’Reilly’s full synthetic and running it a few hard miles at a time until the oil finally came out clear, I put the Mobil one full synthetic in with a can of restore oil additive. As for what made me decide on using both the oil additives, I’ve spent a lot of insomnia induced time on project farms YouTube channel, both have really good results! Still bummed that I ran through the royal purple so quick though. Should have gotten a few more 5 quart jugs of it while it was $33!
I did not go that way for a couple reasons. From what I understand, por15 needs special surface conditions or it flakes off easily. When it flakes off its worse than paint because it traps water against the steel. It's also very expensive.
I used Eastwood chassis saver and it is basically powder coat. It scratches if you REALLY work at it, but it doesn't flake at all. My plan is to coat scratches with rustoleum rattle can.
I also will be oil undercoating everything every fall. (mainly the rear. My leaking rear main seal coats the front handily.)
For inside the frame I would go with the Eastwood frame paint since I can't see anything being that thorough.
I also made my frame watertight and put a bunch of oil inside.
Edit:
Tub is a different animal. I would wire wheel the heavy scale off, hit with Gempler's rust converter, (a quart will be enough) brush on a heavy coat of rustoleum professional paint, (walmart sells it in quarts and gallons. One quart might be enough.)and then slather the bottom with roofing tar. Basically rust sucks.
nope :)
I just had to snip the line, put the valve in, and tighten 2 hose clamps. I bought a kit that came with everything I needed. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G1DXT4N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Also nice! Maybe I'll see you around campus some time. I'm usually zipping around on my electric longboard
I purchased push mount zip ties, chopped off the round portion on the retainer clip with wire snips, and then looped the zip tie around the base of the retainer clip. Allowed me to reuse the same clips, but have new push mounts. Worked pretty well when I rebuilt that area of my YJ.
Here's what I have. It's advertised as a train horn but it's not actually a full on train horn. I love it nonetheless. It's wired to the horn button and is mounted where the stock jack was on the right front fender. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081MZSFTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Holder for iPhone 6s Plus 6s 5s 5c Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge S6 S5 Note 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRGOKQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bl7NybMKQJ5JK
This is the one I've used and it's fantastic. Had it a year now and it only fell off once and it was my fault for hitting it the day before and yanking on the charger while my phone was still in it.
I bought a seat warmer off Amazon and a cigarette lighter splitter to power it.
Yeah, there are two separate switches in there. One manages the turn signals and the other does the brights, wipers, etc. Let me see if I have them saved on amazon still...
Wiper/multifunction switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9QKWG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the LED’s I used: Amazon link
6 for the center dash, 4 for the speedometer/tachometer. If you want to switch the heater controls you’ll need one more.
Now I need to find a small red bulb for the gear shift indicator.
I did my YJ hardtop with Rhinoliner. Just sanded and cleaned it really good then two thin coats. Came out beyond amazing. Ended up selling it for 3x what I paid for it (hardtop).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFIIHHU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it should make no difference as it is below the air filter. if you really wanted to replace it you could use Install Bay 89-00-9031 ABS Plastic 12 X 12 X 1/8-Inch and just caulk or rivet it on
Yep, the Polks are great! I have them for the speakers and subwoofer is currently a cheap pioneer (was experimenting to see if it would get stolen). I plan to replace the subwoofer sometime as well.
Originally ran two amps, but they took up so much space. I replaced them with a Pioneer D-series amp, which is smaller and packs a lot of juice—more efficient than the older designs. Here’s a newer version of what I used (I have a D9605):
Pioneer GM-D9705 Class-D 5-Channel Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8KKR6X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ln0dFbWPAHC83
Almost any vehicle with a trailer hitch will have this hole. If you are towing something with it, the ball will fit into there with a mount like this. Most people just leave the ball mount in the receiver so you never see the square hole.
Limited-time deal: BOSS Audio Systems BCPA10RC Apple CarPlay Android Auto Car Multimedia Player - Single Din Chassis with 10.1 Inch Capacitive Touchscreen, Bluetooth, No DVD, RGB Illumination, Rear Camera Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V53NQPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_HCHSSMWY18AZT2344S9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the help, those are exactly what I was thinking of doing at first. I do have a clock, but it's always at 5...hasn't worked since I've had the jeep, and that explains why. After a bit more research I am thinking that these should work https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00030CPSM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_gl_i_D3RQCFYV4Q3E3R5D822E.
I'll test out the ports because I need an ways on, like that clock port is.
The headlights are by Auxbeam and I can't say good enough things about them I have their lights on two motorcycles a car and the Jeep now but the Jeep is the first one that I've had actual projectors which make a world of difference with LEDs these lights are absolutely perfect for the Jeep they fit perfect they're tough as nails they're waterproof they're plug and Play and they have a great cut off so they don't blind people but they're super bright when you need them to be. Auxbeam 5x7 7x6 Inch Led... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MRB4R3D?ref=ppx_pop_tab_ap_share
I'm seeing these bumpers everywhere now but I got it on Amazon BoardRoad Front Bumper Rock... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FJ7QSJY?ref=ppx_pop_tab_ap_share The lights are pretty decent actually and extremely bright but obviously you can't easily point them so they're pretty much static where they are. The bumper fit very snug it took a 3 lb hammer and a block of wood to jam it on there which is exactly what you want
New Osram Chips 110W 5x7 Inch Led... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWBRDJ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Simple plug and play replacement. No daytime running lights to tap in, or turn signals to wire with it. This is my final set that i settled on. First had daytime running lights, not difficult to tap in just an extra step. Second had daytime running lights and turn signals, wiring nightmare with replacing relays to dix hyperflash. These replaced the second set after I was tired of chasing bad connections. Have ran great and look fantastic and really light up the road. Just be sure to adjust your beams so your not blinding oncoming traffic.
In case you’re still looking I found
Crown Automotive 33001237 Valve... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VQ0FPA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share for grommets. I put the CCV one in already but haven’t popped in the PCV one yet.
And then https://www.morris4x4center.com/mopar-ventilation-valve-filter-53002466-m.html I ordered the other day then they pushed delivery back by a month.
I bought a cheep universal “front” license plate mount from Amazon. It bolts in the stock holes from the tire mount.
Trunknets Inc Universal Front Bumper License Plate Bracket + 6 Unique Screws and Wrench Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RIVG814/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CZHMSAWKRCXTANFNKW8Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yikes.
That being said, all may not be lost, but the road from here even in best case scenario is a rough one.
This rust at the back end of the frame is common and the rest of the frame might be salvageable.
https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Shackle-Repair-Wrangler-1987-1995/dp/B07YDPVSL3/ref=sr_1_4
https://taboocustoms.com/store/jeep-wrangler-yj-rear-frame-rust-repair
This option will require some skilled welding and you have to take the Jeep half apart to do it, but at least you won't be throwing it in the trash.
I picked up one that used machine screws and matching threaded holes in three strips of stainless. Of course, being a YJ, only 50% of the hole matched up, and the adhesive strips died after a year. I got it at Quadratec and also it is no longer available.
Rivnuts worked out really well for the vertical holes to keep the 2 piece header bars screwed down for a bikini top. For the hard top it's different because the front lip of the hardtop will clash with the back threaded portion of the rivnut. I'm going to have to experiment in a month when I have to put it back on.
In the meantime, how are you securing the hard top at the bed rails? I switched to these five or six years ago and they have made life MUCH easier:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PP79NAQ/
I get enough vibration to have the sheetmetal screws on the windshield header wind up on the floor and out the drain holes, but I don't get any water in (there) when it rains, and no wind. The old thick fiberglass is pretty rigid!
Yeah, it's kind of difficult to tell if it's tensioned properly without the tension tester. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRDLZM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3M02424B6NB07PBN2FC8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Carb stuff: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f228/motorcraft-2150-ebay-guy-quo-1837498/#/topics/1837498
The distributor i bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006CRU9YC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_TN7SZYTWXZ7VB6DWAV7K
Lots of info on YouTube.
I bought a Bluetooth motorcycle unit that hides deep under the dash and makes it so there is nothing to tempt a worthless thief. Just a blank in the dash.
Not actually this one, but this one is similar
https://smile.amazon.com/GoHawk-TJ4-R-Amplifier-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B07MTXYNYH/
TRUCKMALL 5’’x 7’’ 7x 6 inch LED Headlights Sealed Beam with Halo DRL Turn Signal, Compatible With Jeep Cherokee XJ Wrangler YJ Comanche MJ Corolla Tacoma Ford F350 Pickup Car Truck Van Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKY7JY9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SPG9J9E135H4GZZQYDH4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ll PM you some pics!
Firstly, the lights
TRUCKMALL 5’’x 7’’ 7x 6 inch LED Headlights Sealed Beam with Halo DRL Turn Signal, Compatible With Jeep Cherokee XJ Wrangler YJ Comanche MJ Corolla Tacoma Ford F350 Pickup Car Truck Van Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKY7JY9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SPG9J9E135H4GZZQYDH4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They’re great $80 never needed to replace anything. The halos light up orange when you use your turn signal.
But yeah it’s amazing. Was a little skeptical of my hose work, I’m 17, I make mistakes, so I waited until an hour ago to take it on the freeway. Not a problem in sight. Except the belt squeals on start, pretty sure it’s the drive belt though, that ones looser than the power steering. Got out around $400 for the steering.
Yup, nothing like a rattle can spray job lol. I removed all the old paint with paint peeler (Klean Strip) the gel type. This worked ok for the first layer. After that i used the Wire brush on angle grinder to remove the rest. This took a while. I primed the body with Por-15 45401, I highly recommend that stuff! works great and can be applied with compressed air spray gun. 2 to 3 coats of that and then i used Olive green spray paint, 2 to 3 coats of that and then i followed it up with 2 part clear coat. Also, highly recommend. Good luck
I just got one of these for the gauges in the center.
The box on the left is a clinometer.
Wanted to say thank you to everyone for the advice! I have ordered the following:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079TZVCFN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like I have the 3.55 and according to the chart (provided by [/u/TheNaughtyMonkey](/u/TheNaughtMonkey)) that should be a 28T
I had a small budget so I bought this one refurbished on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/REFURBISHED-6-Speakers-Soundbar-Jeep-Wrangler-Cj-Tj-Yj-Sound-Bar-Spice-W-Lights-/133541203399?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 I wanted the overhead lights too. Same one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GINT14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SJQQDNW7SXAKPM4B02QY
I used a different brand, but its the same concept. It pulls power from you batter through the relays, but uses the existing connections for control. It was SUPER simple. Power wire to the relays, plug it in to your existing light harness, and mount the relays. That's it.
I put on these.
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the holes didn't line exactly up so I drilled and used a combination of pop rivets and the supplied screws depending on if could reach both sides of the screw to attach the nut. The front fit very well. The instructions say to cut the back fender, but i just left the fender intact and coated the part of the fender I was suppose to cut off with black bedliner and it looks great.
This stuff is amazing!
https://www.amazon.com/Corroseal-Water-Based-Converter-Metal-Primer/dp/B07Y5XZJFX
It's a paint that has the consistency of cream, is water-based, and turns rust into iron phosphate which doesn't rust, along with priming the area to be painted over. I've used it on my YJ a bunch, and also on a bunch of grandpa's cars.
I recommend wire brush, Corroseal, and then paint. Don't have to get every flake of rust.
This is the one I bought. I have black denim seats so this matched.
Bestop 5250915 Black Denim Targa-Style Strapless Bikini Top for 1987-1991 Wrangler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SA3YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_M7HJjgjZ7nDqc
Something like this would work to put back on any style you want
Top10 Racing Shift knob Shifter Adapter Universal for No... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VMPPCBF/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glc_fabc_Rm9YFb917SSFC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the part numbers, you rock! That led me to this set on Amazon that seems like a good deal.
One last question for you, what did you use for a steering stabilizer?
Z-OFFROAD 2pcs 110W 5x7 7x6 Halo LED Headlights with Turn Signal White DRL Sealed Beam Headlamp H6054 6054 Led Headlight Compatible with Jeep Wrangler YJ Cherokee XJ H5054 H6054LL 6052 6053 - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTC7NK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-nTMFbXSRKK3A
Folex, without a doubt. This is a great cleaner for getting rid of old stains, especially oil. I have a bad habit of working in my garage with nice clothes on and my wife gets everything out with this.
Years ago I was the director for a few high rises in my area and one had a horrible stain in one of the hallway carpets. Turns out someone spilled a crock pot there 8 years ago. I bought this and gave it to my maintenance crew and the whole stain came out.
https://imgur.com/gallery/xiekKf6 I got them off of amazon, they were fairly inexpensive but there was a lot of work that went into them, you had to cut out the old fenders but leaving some parts behind. Here’s the fender: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5JL95I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XI5kCb40R389C
They look like the same pair I got for my YJ from Amazon. They're pretty bright and $88 is hard to beat-- I did have to send back my first pair because one didn't light up properly after a few weeks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QR6BVC
I got these from amazon: Kingopt Black 2x4" 36w with Amber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCWLFHN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share then u/marcspieth helped me out with a wiring harness that made wiring up the turn signal light pretty much plug and play. If you need any help lmk!
That's a Peugeot tranny right? you need a 5/16 . I bought it from Amazon
I installed these LED headlights today. I bought them from Amazon:
7x6" inch Halo LED Headlights,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XL75ZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And the install was easy. The headlights come with a pigtail and plugs directly into the original wiring harness socket. The low beams are brighter than my old high beams.
I still have to wire in the turn signals to the new headlights and figure out how to hook up the Daytime Running Lights. But I'm impressed at how easy it was, and how well they work.
I went with these speakers from Kicker because of their low RMS rating of 15-75 watts meaning the stock head unit shouldn't have any trouble giving them enough power (I'm not adding an amp), they're 4-ohm just like the originals, and although they don't include grilles I can clean up and reuse the ones the soundbar came with to keep it looking as factory as possible.
They're more expensive than I thought they'd be, but I didn't get an old jeep because I thought it'd be a cheap hobby.
Oh, there was one section of torx that was like that on my jeep, I just tap the bolt head in with a hammer to break through the grime and dirt, then use a toothbrush to get the crud out, initially I thought I bottomed out on a shallow bolt until I realized it was caked dirt after probing it with a hook tool. I don't think factory bolts are mistakenly made shallower than the standard depth required to bite in. But here's the bolt set I used, torx
I bought this from Amazon. Not waterproof but wter resistant. Has worked well for me so far. You can also coat it waterproofing and I'm sure it would work well.
Amazon! It's here be warned though it is very meh. They are pretty cheap and perfect for uh... coke cans
7x6" inch Halo LED Headlights, OVOTOR 5x7 inch Square LED Headlamp with Arrow Angel Eyes DRL Turn Signal Light Replaces H6054 H5054 H6054LL 69822 Fit Trucks Jeep Wrangler XJ YJ Sedans GMC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XL75ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oUTXDbY76SR8M
These are the LED lights I bought for my 91 Wrangler. They were super easy to install, and were a great upgrade from the stock headlights. Driving at night is much better.
The low beam pattern is nice and wide, the high beam pattern just has two spots it throws down the road, in addition to the low beams. I've been told the high beams are really bright but it doesn't seem to add a whole lot to the beam pattern.
Overall I've had them for about a month and I'm very happy with them. I have not wired the turn signals and my Jeep does not have daytime running lights. I would recommend a set of foglights for longer distances.
Probably frozen into the door and the bolts are painted over, so stripping them is easy anyway. You can get new bolts if you drill those out.... I think these are the same.
16 Jeep Wrangler CJ 76-86 YJ 87-95 TJ 97-06 Windshield Frame/Hinge Torx Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UIONGMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CNVBGvzL3n4ry
Local shop rebuilt it for me, built it with all new parts stronger than the factory transmission. Can’t say exactly which ones but it drives 100 times better. He’s a trusted mechanic so i went with what he suggested. Here’s the link to the headlights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWBRDJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HHpUDbXXCCWZD So far they are awesome! And they have a ton of good reviews so I would recommend!
These are the ones I tried that made mine sputter: Bosch 4428 Platinum https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYD78W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Funny enough, my oil pressure sender just went wonky the other day too. Anytime the Jeep is running it just pegs to max PSI regardless of rpm. I have a new sender on its way BUT I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you get an oil sender socket as it can be a pain in the ass to replace without one! I ordered this one
This is the amazon link, they are cheap led headlights but work great.
How old is that rubber... and is it the right line rated for fuel, and not vacuum line?
A 4.2 and a 4.0 at this point are +20yrs.
The other thing, consider some of this:
https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-204002-Shield-Sleeve/dp/B004GNLGTQ
Check out metras site. I tracked one down for a 94 this way. Then search for the part number on Amazon, it was only like 6 bucks or something!
EDIT: found it, https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1002-Harness-1988-96-Speaker/dp/B0002BG66Y
Those are the kind of cheap ones I'd stay away from. They likely wont be any brighter than stock and the halos will only show up if its dark.
I run a set of these on each on each side for rock lights. Very bright and easy to instal.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWDJILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_hwY6ybNJXPHGY
i have one that attaches to the windshield brackets, it hold big foam cups and cans equally well, kinda bounces around a bit with bumps and stuff tho. this is it here https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-13306-01-Drink-Holder/dp/B000FQ7BFG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490384072&sr=8-1&keywords=rugged+ridge+cup++holder
YESER 1 Pair Rectangular 7x6 5x7 ( 7x5.75inch) 45W Led Headlights Bulb H4 Replacement H6014 H6052 H6053 H6054 Sealed Beam Off Road Lights for Trucks Jeep Wrangler JK YJ CJ TJ MJ XJ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRJSPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MEWEybPYD2PW4
Check out bedrug. I am going to add it to mine this winter after a buddy with a TJ swore by it. It's supposed to allow moisture to still drain through the drain plugs--sounds good to me!
If you do decide to go all out, I used the monstaliner product as a roll-on and it looks/works great! I still want carpet in there though for noise/thermal insulation and to prevent my foot from sliding forward into the pedals when I climb in with wet shoes.
Here it is: http://www.morris4x4center.com/complete-soft-top-with-soft-upper-doors-gray-denim-rampage-68111.html (and on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X5HGEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
My door legs were slightly bent on passenger side (they claimed shipping error) and the driver side window clips the windshield channel (I think this is a broken part on my side) but otherwise the top fits pretty great! I love the color so much!
It does come with all of the hardware you need. I got new rails, the actual hardware, windshield door channels, and windshield top channels (but my top channel was ripping out so we've drilled through my windshield frame, so I didn't need those).
Could've used some new bolts for the rails though. No big deal.
The soft uppers are great though, they're velcro style so they can actually come off of the hardware...plus you get the hardware! So I now have black upper sliders, black upper zippers, and gray/white upper zippers! :D
Well, if you are in NC, you come get a pretty good set of Rio Grande seats from me. :)
I swapped in Sahara seats, with these covers, and am pretty happy.
no to the dimmer, but i expected that. heres a link for bulbs
they are holding up well, but they are definitely cheap. spend 20 bucks for a better brand
I hate to seem like an advertising dick hole, but here are the links to the safari top and chrome grille inserts incase you ever decide on buying them!
Inserts Rugged Ridge 11306.01 Chrome Grille Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FQ7ATS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JbN1wbAR1A72R
Nets Smittybilt 561135 C-RES '2 HD' Trail Net https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K150QGC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_3cN1wb6P01SQH
For some reason Amazon advertises the TJ net (I used the TJ net on my YJ, but it worked out great) as a JK. It really confused me at first, but that's the correct model number. Not too bad for $150!