Mansfield. Install a pro 45 Fluidmaster fill valve, replace the supply line, and replace the cup seal on the flush valve.https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-510M-001-P10-Mansfield-Replacement-Flush/dp/B07DR52JXD
Damn, I finally see one. Someone quiting an office job for a trade because they prefer to work with their hands. Props man! Best of luck.
Only advice I can give, if you go to construction sites don't leave your things around, never answer questions e.g so you guys installing, removing, adding etc, as a helper that's your mechanics/journeymans job. Don't embarrass them. Oh, I recommend a dust mask you can never go wrong having that. That's the one I use but as you saw unavailable, two years, no silica or sawdust dust for me. Last, don't go crazy on tools yet. Look around, e.g a lot of people use chanel locks (blue ones) I prefer Irwin's V groove. It's about what is best for you, since your using it.
Every time. They sell a repair drain that you can do that has an o-ring in it and the O-ring is what makes the seal so when the shower flexes up and down a little bit from people standing on it the O-ring can slide up and down the pipe and it's less likely to leak. I would recommend a couple spots of spray foam underneath the shower base so it stops wiggling up and down when people step in it cuz that's what's causing it to leak just probably no putty underneath the top in the shower.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E338FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_T5AYT5FES67DDYXY67JK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 drain anymore.
If I was designing this system for myself, I would probably use a dormont 3/4” quick disconnect line that is traditionally used in commercial kitchens. Like this
Run regular code compliant gas piping to the location and then use the Dormont to hook up to your portable genny.
Looks like a Moen. You’ll need one of the special install tools they have and even that doesn’t work if it’s seized on there. Might have to drill the nut in to and break it off.
Just verify it’s a Moen first. It’s hard to say for sure from the pics
Delta Haywood Centerset Bathroom Faucet.
You need 21.5 mm key
New aerator comes with key
new aerator for this sink on Amazon
There are a few types of rubber plugs that you screw to tighten them up to plug it like this
Those ABS flanges breaking is common. You can replace the whole thing, but using a Pasco Quick ring works great. Screw it down to the existing flange and floor and you're golden. This is the only situation I use them. Line the ring with the existing one and line up the closet bolts. Then secure the ring. These rings don't intrude on the wax seal, so you won't have to worry about leaking from under it.
Make sure the water is off. Be sure to have the cartridge on hand before you attempt this. There is a clip that retains the cartridge. Buy this tool. It's worth it.
They are asking if hot is one knob and cold is another like this or if you use one knob for hot and cold
They run a weak acid such as white vinegar through the heating coils on the inside of the heater to remove lime scale. If you read the owner's manual that came with the unit it should tell you want to run through the unit to remove calcium and limescale. If you're trying to save money you can gravity feed white vinegar through the unit enough times to get it clean on your own with some washing machine hoses and some 5 gallon buckets. If not they sell a kit with a pump and everything that would probably cost you less than $120 that you could keep for the rest of the life of the heater. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085BF89QJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_RBVSMEQA17YSQJY3SFSY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Clean out the drains as best you can, it could be from hair/debris buildup in your drains allowing bacteria to grow. There are hair/clog remover plastic tools with teeth on them on amazon for cheap, use one of those to clean out the shower drain, and sink drain as best as you can. Then use draino, or poor boiling water down, or do draino first and then boiling water after waiting for the draino to clear.
If that's not it, your vent line for these fixtures might be plugged, unless you know where that vent goes, that would need a plumber. Or the seal for your toilet might be bad
If there's a floor drain in the bathroom, poor some water down there to make sure it's not dried out.
Some plungers are not as good as others, but basically the idea is to make sure you have water under the cup of the plunger rather than an air pocket. If you’re not in a rush, run out and buy a good plunger, one like this works great for me: https://www.amazon.com/GuroBust-Plungers-Bathroom-Commercial-GB6390/dp/B09LP5TH5V/ref=mp_s_a_1_9
I would replace the P trap because the coupling can't align properly and you will need to get a trap that can reduce, the old trap is a 1980s gsr brand trap that has been repaired. You should cut the trap off at the wall and sand the paint off the pipe, you can then glue on a coupling which will connect to pipe that will attach the new trap with an extension tailpiece.
Disclaimer: I’m not a plumber.
What about something like this ?
Also have you tried liquid wrench or another penetrating oil?
Looks like a spacer that was added on top of original flange when a new floor was put in. Replace with set right
Or a jumbo wax may work here.
I've had a similar tool: https://www.amazon.com/Pasco-7000-Quick-Nutcracker-Remover/dp/B004M3GP50 for over 30 years. They work great. Make sure to lube the chisels before trying it on brass nuts.
Since you haven’t gotten any answers from an actual plumber yet, I’ll give it a shot.
There is no linkage to a trip lever, as your tub is setup with something similar to this style of stopper: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Brass-DTT201-Tip-Toe-Polished/dp/B003E2NUZS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=pop+up+tub+drain+stopper&qid=1659560528&sr=8-17
I think this video will be helpful to show you how to make the repair: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xrOIGlPCgtw
The flange is supposed to be secured to the foundation with at least two screws. Also, when it comes to these all plastic flanges, I recommend installing a reinforcement ring on top to prevent the plastic from warping and breaking over time.
The ring holds the plumbing to the foundation and adds some strength to the slots for the closet bolts. Install that after the flooring is completed so you have a solid finished floor to work with.
Would this adapter work? https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-8381-4-Inch-Compression-Adapter/dp/B008E5CQQ4
Also, since it's outdoors with a cold supply line, can I ignore the hot line?
https://www.amazon.ca/Orbit-SunMate-Brass-Hose-Shut/dp/B004RUFCA2/ref=asc_df_B004RUFCA2/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292957278235&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14184110691723622825&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h... this could be a temp fix
And this is the type of thing I’m searching for https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111KLHKE/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_gccp_rtpb1_sccl_1_4/257-1837965-7740839?pd_rd_w=WJTyZ&content-id=amzn1.sym.e6e6d62e-b9b2-4624-8015-e52e0f0658c9&pf_rd_p=e6e6d62e-b9b2-4624-8015-e52e0f0658c9&pf_rd_r=2QQBFDZN9Q7K2V8MSZ3F&pd_rd_wg=meT5c&pd_rd_r=5d711e97-cbf6-4af7-b135-ad51fbf7867a&pd_rd_i=B0111KLHKE&psc=1
This would work, or something similar.
They're alot cheaper at the supplier and reusable to an extent
Homedepot usually has a cheap crimp tool for under $50. I have this set and it works fine. https://www.amazon.ca/Crimping-Crimper-Fitting-Stainless-Set/dp/B07GYQDRG1/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1SN5WTUQETOBP&keywords=pex+crimp+tool&qid=1656096517&sprefix=pex+crimp+tool%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-16
Very handy tool to have around
You can usually buy bulk gasket material just about anywhere. They come in sheets and you cut them to whatever shape you need. Amazon or ebay will have them in sheets. /
this should work https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3075-Gasket-Material/dp/B000C2G5ZA/ref=psdc_15719731_t1_B000CNKUGO
Because if it fails open, that's it. The water flows back. An ASSE approved backflow preventer, like this one, has 2 check valves with a vent in between, so if the primary one fails, the backflow is stopped by the secondary one, and if the secondary one fails, the backflow drains through the vent and your potable water is safe from the contamination.
If you really don't want the water to ever mix with the main house line, then this is the way to be sure.
That looks like a quick coupler valve for a garden hose. You would use a key like this.
Then you can attach a spigot like this one to the top and attach a garden hose. You can also get sprinkler attachments as well.
Homevacious 16-Inch Long Bathroom Kitchen Faucet Connector Braided Supply Hose 3/8-Inch Female Compression Stainless Steel Sink Faucet Connection Thread x M10 Male Connector x 2 Pcs (1 Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFYBKCW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_WKVZCHGPCD9MF84GBSNA
A self piercing saddle valve should never be used on a braided line like that, there's nothing for it to form a seal with. (They should be avoided in general but this is a particularly terrible implementation.)
I would replace the cold braided line to the faucet and put a t-valve like this between the pex valve and the replacement line for the faucet.
I was just able to test both faucets and the first one filled the bucket up in 50 seconds and the back one took 2 minutes.
Here’s the sprinkler I’ve been using: Melnor 65074-AMZ XT Turbo Oscillating Sprinkler with 2-Way Adjustment and QuickConnect Product Adapter Set, Amazon Bundle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9FH2FL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6K1W4Y4W3NJG1E8BKD9Z
The mechanism seemed to work. The o-rings all seem fine. Really confused. I don't know why it's not working. Maybe something in the cartridge is stuck.
This seems like it's pretty spot on with what I have :
It is just an attachment that goes on your existing toilet and connects to the water line in the back of the toilet. It is not a true bidet that you seem to be envisioning. The toilet is easily returned back to it's normal state.
Also, we were given permission from the landlord not only to install the bidet, but to make small changes.
> log remover is a strip of plastic with notched edges
Will this do the trick?
Get yourself a can of Christy’s Red Hot
That will be ready for service within 15 minutes max. The above is a bit too cautious of a recommendation for this application honestly, you’ll be fine. Don’t bury it and observe when running for peace of mind before backfill. But you will not have leaks if you chamfer the edge of male pipe, and prine both fitting and pipe. Then use some christys for the glue.
Nothing through the studs, these are pex hangers like the following:
Highcraft ID223x50-K Half Clamp J-Hook with Nail For Pex Tubing Pipe Support, 1 in, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F985XWS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2YDGCWPE700304JFXGDX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
these are a thing but they seem silly, here is one sold on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PF-WaterWorks-FlushSMART-Optimizer-PF0550/dp/B005A3MRBW
$11.11 on Amazon
Hmm thats not great to not have the over flow. They make a little tool for pulling hair from drains.
Universal Dishwasher Drain Hose - 6 Ft Discharge Hose - Corrugated and Flexible Dishwasher Hose Drain Replacement with Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093BPZJ4P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4G2YE0D73GXTEM7K3QKW?psc=1
5/8 is the outside diameter. This one can be cut to fit any size
Look up water hammering online and order some hammer arrestor devices line this one. HYDRO MASTER Water Hammer Arrestor,Lead Free Brass,1/2"MNPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KGGPQZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P8X486NB91SFHGBNRGJE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That gasket looks like it got pinched during the drain install. Oatey makes a tool to remove the plastic ring. There are four square notches in it. You can probably reseat the gasket then use a plug. You might even be able to get it unthreaded with some needle nose pliers that are opened up into a X shape
Oatey 42239 Brass and Plastic No-Calk Shower Drain Wrench, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG42488/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EG135KHMMWGYNWK6AP8Q
Replace with a pop up drain with cover plate. Popup Drain
There are a few different styles but anything similar would work. If its not a basement toilet and you have access below I'd cut the whole thing out and repipe it with a new flange
i have something like this in mine to fill the tank automatically. might need to hunt around for the right config but if you are gonna be that lazy (which is awesome), go all the way!
Thank you. I appreciate that. This is the one we bought. Which can also be returned. We just picked one that looked nice and got good reviews.
Thank you. Looks like the trim we bought doesn’t come with the cartridge but I think thisis what we need.
Okay. Thank you. It seems valve and cartridge are used interchangeably. I think I found what I need.
Something like this.
I’ve found that stainless steel works great for removing odors stuck on skin. They make handy little steel bars shaped just like soap that you can scrub with under running warm water. Works amazingly well for me. Here’s an Amazon link to one:
Limited-time deal: amco 8402 Rub-a-Way Bar Stainless Steel Odor Absorber, Single, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F8JUJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_dl_00YPDV2FP1SKBF20J4NN
There's an adapter to replace an aerator with garden hose thread.
Used to get these to fill waterbeds, but they are still used by aquarium enthusiasts
Looks similar to a RP54977. I would double check in person with a plumbing supply place. The model I listed is on Amazon
My first thought when I saw your pic and before I read any comments was that it looks exactly like the drain plug of a hot tub.
There would be a part that screws into this, then when pulled out would open the valve
Edit - this bit
I tried that but I seem to cannot rotate it whatsoever. I'm not sure what braided water line is but I've found something like this that I feel is going to work but I'm unsure of the entrance size of my current one.
The hose should fill the tank even if it isn't in the hole.
CHeck around the base of the column where the hose goes. At the bottom is a little round gasket that wears out on these. I'd check that first to be sure. Here is the part so you can see what it looks like:
ShowerShroom the Revolutionary 2" Stand-Up Shower Stall Drain Protector Hair Catcher/Strainer, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KTT82G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9N394Z2AD1AJXCYZBH37?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the spout: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09231VHGF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I thought I just needed a 3/4 male to male adapter but don't know what I am doing...
Ah, I see. I recently got a seat that used that from Amazon here and didn't particularly like it. But it is the style you're looking for on the install. I've legitimately never encountered a toilet I could not get to the nuts underneath, so it's interesting that they exist.
Pumice stone for the easy to reach stuff. The rest will have to be dissolved. I use a product called Javelin.
I use the urinal cleaner instead of the toilet bowl cleaner though. You remove the water from the bowl with a sponge or wet/dry vac and pour the entire contents of the cleaner into the bowl. Let it sit for 30 minutes and flush. Then clean the remaining debris away with a brush or pumice stone.
I despise those tee’s. They always leak. I would remove all of that down to the copper pipe, get a dual shut off and a longer hose if needed. 1/2"FIP Iron Pipe x 3/8" OD Comp x 3/8" OD Comp Dual Handle 3 Way Angle Stop Water Shutoff Ball Valve, Lead-Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TS278R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AMB3TTQ4KS43AGJ4HK9G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If the supply line to the faucet is long enough then just use a tee. Like this
Litorange Lead Free 2 PCS Brass Angle Stop Add-A-Tee Valve 3/8" Compression Inlet by 3/8" Compression Outlet by 3/8 Inch Compression Outlet Easy Connect Tee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVFG6LN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1M7YJS2ZCXHNPAX80Q94?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
here are your cartridges. I just dealt with this the other day. Delta will not work. These are ceramic cartridges with an internal 1/4 turn stop
Do people still have separate hot and cold taps on the shower? I thought that was 1970s stuff
Standard now is a thermostatic mixer. Sorry for .fr link but you get the idea.
It's been like that for decades
Something like this?
Armour Line RP77323 Tub Drain Remover Wrench, Heavy Duty, Pack of 1 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0756JVM5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FH2GWN0CZSAB6KY4BP14
Maybe I can find a video on how to use it.
The drain plug is threaded but in the last 120 years the threads have worn off. Can a new drain assembly be installed? Or am I relegated to using something like this V-TOP Tub Stopper 2 Pack, 6 inches Large Silicone Drain Plug Hair Stopper Flat Suction Cover for Kitchen Bathroom and Laundry https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076JD153W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T1N3XYZ4JP871GMR1TF3?
Not that expensive I always keep new replacement parts in the event that I need to replace. Good solution to bleach tabs Fluidmaster 8300 Flush 'n Sparkle Automatic Toilet Bowl Cleaning System with Bleach Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YOQXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NGNVTM496J3PX67FDX57?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds like it is siphoning, shouldn't have to prime it that often. Try pouring a cup of olive oil in there as that will not evaporate as quickly and stays at the top of the trap seal; if evaporation is the issue. Or, if that does not work, try one of these.
with the water inlet at the bottom of the tank, there must be another part needed to make this work - similar to this one
I wouldn't use anything but this stuff now
Check if it'll fit if your current plumbing is stuck in the 69s lol ;)
There ya go. all brass. they even sell copper float balls
Plastic thing = your new shower head
Metal thing with rod = old style tub diverter valve. Push the button and it stops the water flow to the shower head.
No tub you say? Welcome to the magical world of cheap landlords. I'm guessing they couldn't get the plastic shower head piece off either and just said "fuck it".
All of these things should come apart. You can try hanging a bag of white vinegar or CLR on the shower arm overnight with the parts submerged. If you get it to wiggle, keep just going back and forth widening the wiggle path in the threads until you can get everything apart.
And for fuck's sake,get a small pipe wrench. Pliers, vice grips, and channel locks all compress the thing you want off to the thing that it's attached to. A pipe wrench grips the outer diameter and applies the force rotationally.
That being said, maybe just look for an adapter so your shower head can screw into the plastic thing and call it a day.
This looks like a Price Pfister which is very common and parts are readily available.
I recommend using genuine parts which last longer
Genuine Replacement Part 2-Handle Rebuild Kit with Metal Verve Knobs
Polished Chrome Model: S10-2100
You can cut the flange off with an inside cutter about a quart inch bellow the floor and install one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MG2SFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_132016EHJ1WG17CJTGNT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Lavatory sink drain with overflow.
Most are Brass or chrome, but here is a PVC one on Amazon:
I think the best tool for this is a crow's foot wrench/socket thing
I have no idea how you'd get a sawzall in there
Nice one! (the joke). Thank you for this advice!
You know, I realized after I saw your answer that I learned enough from overhauling my toilet and bathroom sink faucet a few months ago, that I should have known this. Of course! What I need is an IP-threaded ball valve and that with the modifiers “chrome” and “1/2 inch” I should be able to find it.
During my adventures in plumbing I have been plenty surprised by both what I DON’T know/understand, and also what I DO know/understand, but didn’t realize I knew/understood.
Here’s what I ended up getting. It looks like a quality product and reviews say it has the widest opening when open: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZC6N5Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T5QJ7JN0MY3EBQ70S6F1
>Moen 1225 cartridge shower valv
Would this fit? https://www.amazon.com/Moen-T2471BN-Posi-Temp-Pressure-Balancing-Required/dp/B07N1J35PB
My feed line is 1/2" comp though not 3/8".
I ended up getting this adapter, LASCO 17-6761. And I'm just going to change the line from the faucet to 1/2"npt X 3/8"comp (was 1/2"npt x 1/2"comp).
Would this enable me to screw the adapter I've bought onto the bottom of it, or could the shower cable be directly screwed onto this?
Camco 37463 3-Way By-Pass Valve Replacement - Lead Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDQQCE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4JEH1E9K55R3P3AAJ6V8?psc=1
This one has a smaller handle. It's a bypass for camper water heaters
NIGO Industrial Co. 180SS Series 3-Way (L-Port) Forged Brass Ball Valve, Lever Handle, NPT Female, Full Port 400WOG (1/2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741417WN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_R3G5EZYDVYAMQ5Y8787D?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K7N8RYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_48Z098K306ZMA80K5BWB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 if you try to pull the cartridge without using this tool you will either pull the brass stem out of the center of it and leave all the plastic guts behind or you will fuck up your valve body. Even when you use this tool it's going to cut the rubbers off the side of the cart the old cartridge and leave those inside your valve so make sure to pick those out with a pic or screwdriver or something before you try to insert a new cartridge. When you insert a new cartridge lube it up with something like some KY Jelly or some Astroglide, hell spit on it if he got to you or whatever you got laying around. If you try to pull it out without the removal tool and end up ripping the brass stem out of the middle of it and leaving all the plastic pieces behind inside the valve, heat a flat head screwdriver red hot with a torch and melt the cartridge in half and pull the little pieces out one by one rather than applying heat to the valve itself. And yes those are what's called integral stops. In theory you should be able to either screw them closed until they bottom out or turn them 90° to shut the the water off to the valve cartridges without having to shut off the whole building. If you keep screwing, screwing them and screwing them and screwing them and they don't ever get tight that means just turn it where the slot faces up and down vertically and that should be off.
Sorry... this is the ozone-generation machine for laundry washer that I was referring to:
seems promising, but I'm just wondering if it's worth the trouble of ordering, installing and then possibly returning it.(if it doesn't work as those reviews claims... since a lot of Amazon reviews these days are "questionable" at best) :)
nothing. you could always get a clamp like this if you were worried about it coming loose. Most washers have a plastic assembly attached to curve the hose with a screw hole. Either yours doesn't have one or it's missing if you picked it up used.
Anti siphon valve for your sprinkler system.
I believe you can repair them. But, Your best bet is to just replace with a new one…
Orbit Sprinkler System 3/4-Inch Brass Anti-Siphon Control Valve 51016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004S22H/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_NSVPKJKNKHEEN1SCWE0B
You'll probably need to cut the existing caps off of the existing lines. A pex cutter tool ($10 -$15) is recommended, but can be accomplished with a utility knife (although it will be harder to get a clean cut. Make sure you turn your water off first!
Once you have the caps cut off you can just slide the shut off valves on to the lines (the video on the shark bite website should show you the proper installation method). Then you'll be able to hook up the supply lines to the faucet (most faucets have these installed already on the faucet end).
The drain water (white pipe in the middle) plumbing may be a bit more difficult, you can probably get a proper p-trap kit from your local hardware store when you are buying the shark bites. There are simple style p-trap kits which will get the job done (likely not to code), but I wouldn't really recommend.
Also, I'm not a plumber, just a guy who's installed his fair share of sinks.
This fitting, and a 3 by 4 inch Fernco will get u started. If possible, wash the shower with the lavatory, and tie into this wye
Here is your cartridge
Delta RP46074 Universal Valve Cartridge Assembly- Multi-Choice Universal - 13 / 14 Series, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DU57R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GECAVQAXGC98VX9V546H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Watch the nut that holds the cartridge in the valve. Where I live (AZ) those are know to get nasty and won’t come off easy, and a lot of guys rip the valve out of the wall. If you have to cut the nut off. And get a new one.
Control Devices P2525-1WA Brass Ball Check Valve, 1/4" NPT Female x NPT Male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDXA60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CA2K6DF8R2E28HJF1KYV
This might be the wrong size. But you can install a check valve on the connection to prevent back flow. I would prob install it on the hot side. Or buy two and install them both sides. I think you want plumbers tape. I always have to google when to use and not use graphite tape
Just saw it was a toilet and not a vanity. I should have read the descriptions. I normal just use adjustable pliers. Like these https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-2-Inch-12-Inch-Tongue-Groove/dp/B000189GSI
Thank you for your help.
The hose on the washing machine was installed by me a few years ago. The washer is in good condition. I think that the cold water pipe sticking out of the wall may have bad threads. It’s an old pipe. I manage to fit the hose correctly after a bit of gentle fiddling, but the arrestor just stays crooked. I’d don’t have this problem on the hot water pipe, the arrestor and the hose fit perfectly.
Duly noted for the teflon tape. There was already some on the connection when I installed a new hose a few years ago. I just assumed it was common practice. Would the tape damage the threads on the pipe?
As for the dishwasher, this is the arrestor I got :
From what I understand, I have to unscrew one of the arrestor’s bolt, take the small ring within to fit in the pipe, etc. Seems easy enough, I definitely have the skills to do that. Yay me! However, a clear video or diagram would go a long way to reassure me.
Yeah, it is dark because its temperature is relatively colder than other surfaces on screen. The temp of 48 degrees, and the fitting right next to it is like 56 degrees. It’s a pretty good indication of cold water being there.
I’ve used it to see water in ceilings. The other day, I saw water in a ceiling where a toilet is right above. I checked the toilet, and the last plumber to put the toilet on didn’t realize one screw came out of the falange! I could just lift the right side of toilet up! So, I redid it... and I could also see that the water dried out in about a day. So didnt have to rip that ceiling out.
I keep finding uses for it. I got the one that goes onto the iPhone that’s like $300.
Flir IR camera
That's 3/8" compression.. you'll need a 3/8" compression valve... something like this.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J3WZPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_J454C17E7F3GHG3KEZEV
That should do what you're needing to do..
I have a wrench and a basin wrench. I can’t get a good grip on it. The normal wrench broke the plastic wings on the side of the nut.
Can I even install it since this based on the shape of the pipe?
This is what I’m trying to install. The seat went on fine but I cannot unscrew the plastic nut for the life of me.
Somthing like this but use it to lower the head?
I just run my finger in there after every use. I also run drum cleaner once a month.
Here is a link to cleaning it
An enzyme treatment is your best way to go if a mechanical drain cleaning isn't possible. Enzymes in a liquid form have to have food inside the liquid to survive. A granular enzyme is inert until wet for approx 30 minutes. So the granular formula has a longer shelf life.
This is the stuff I recommend to my customers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N09KN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_PbVYFbF7P91YB
I do have an adapter between one side of each brass Y and its stainless steel supply line. Right now, those adapters are a more coppery-looking brass. Wondering whether just subbing in plastic adapters would solve this problem. And how they would hold up long-term.
Maybe something like this:
After I looked up what a dielectric union is (definitely the right idea), I looked for one that would go somewhere in the mix between the 3/4" washer hose hookup (male) and the 1/2" FIP faucet connector line, but so far, no luck. Any link would be appreciated.
Do i need to replace the sprayer or just the hose? I just want to make sure the connections fit. This one looks similar to the hose I currently have, and wondering if it will work? https://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Sprayer-Brushed-Nickel-Replacement/dp/B07HSSQ896/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1H19LK5LT0L1Q&dchild=1&keywords=kitchen+sink+side+sprayer&qid=1604248233&s=hi&sprefix=Kitchen+Sink+side%2Ctools%2C146&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVlNLSDg0TElBT1IzJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODYzNzkwNTZYREhINkc3MkkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDk0MTExMzNQVlNDSEVTR1VZRlcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl