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Does it have to be wireless? If so, it's not going to cheap or easy. As the other user stated a DA would be your best bet. Something like this would be cheap and easy and should basically be plug and play
I have this switch (which I now know only mirrors instead of extends): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCXHY32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have two windows machines. Ideally, I'd connect my MacBook too but that's not as important at the moment.
Someone recommended getting another HDMI switch but only with one output port, but I'm not sure how that would be wired?
I've attached a picture of my current HDMI setup to the main post.
Assuming it's not some weird configuration issue, you could you something like this to split the optical to optical and RCA before it reaches your receiver.
Do you have to set the zone 2 source separately?
I'm using a multizone amp: https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-MA1240a-Multi-Zone-Amplifier/dp/B003DKVZHQ/
With some audio engine b fi streamers as input sources:
https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Multiroom-Streamer-Receiver-Streaming/dp/B08B7YH7TM/
I'll probably switch to something besides the audio engine because it's pandora support blows and it does not seem to support chromecast (currently using spitify just fine though). All kinds of options here though from an $30 echo dot to really high end streamers. Since I tinker i'll likely try a raspberry pi solution next.
Thanks for your answer. I connect the mixer and laptop through the headphone jack. I've read about using a ground lift switch. I also thought of using a ground loop noise isolator like this https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L which would allow me to keep using the 3.5mm cable. When I use my mics without plugging my mixer into the laptop, the speaker is crystal clear. It's only when I connect the laptop that the hum comes through. I have a power strip. I can only connect it to an extension cord though. The bar's outlet is in the ceiling. It's a basement bar and they have known electrical issues (lamps flickering, etc)
If you already have a hdmi sound extractor you can add a "surround sound decoder". Assuming the extractor outputs surround sound i think this should work.
Sth like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SOUTHSKY-Digital-Decoder-Converter-Optical/dp/B08KD9NVXY
I ended up buying 1 Audioengine B-Fi to try out on the first zone before taking the plunge and building it all out at once.
I did look at the sonos port but the top Amazon review where someone states their sonos connect was basically updated to a point of incompatibility convinced me to go with something less managed.
I also saw one person talking about buying 6 Echo dots and tying them to each of the 6 speaker pairs then using the Alexa config to create virtual zones that seemed like a great idea but once again there is quite a bit of negative feedback on the amazon devices.
replace the HDMI to SDI converter with a HDMI modulator. This will convert the HDMI digital signal to an RF signal that will be compatible with your current setup.
The image quality will not be as good as a proper HDMI distribution set up, and it will not pass copy protected content (HDCP) I haven't tested the bellow product, but the spec say it should do what you are after.
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Converter-Modulator-Old-Transmitter/dp/B07W58PNPP
SIIG HDMI to USB-C Port 4K 60Hz Converter Adapter, for HDMI Source to USB-C (DP Signal) Display, HDMI 2.0,4K60Hz,1080p144Hz,HDR,HDCP 2.2,Stereo Audio,USB-Powered Plug and Play (CB-H21711-S1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WCNYCQT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_HN0NB0CEYQDMQBFPHBMT
here are a couple epson vs260 view sonic a trick when looking for one is to not look for features but to look for brightness, contrast ratio, and resolution
what kind of phone?? You could get a USB-C or lightning port to HDMI so you can mirror the phone on the TV but send the audio out to your speaker.
If you have a Roku you can use the YouTube app for karaoke tracks and use the Roku phone app to link your speaker via Bluetooth.
You could also use a Bluetooth transmitter to send the digital audio out from the TV to your speaker. Something like this
Scart to HDMI won’t get you anywhere in-expensively, unfortunately, as the adapter will need a lot of complex circuitry in it. Actually, this will convert optical to analogue, and is a lot cheaper than I was anticipating. PROZOR 192kHz DAC Converter Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio R/L Converter Adapter with Optical Cable Compatible with HD DVD Sky HD Blu-ray https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EQJSPB2901DMDA25A3E1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. You’ll need to supply power to this. You said the TV has optical out, yes?
After a bit more research, looks like this one would be the right one to go with?
Sanus Premium Full Motion TV Wall Mount for TVs Up to 90" - Brushed Black Finish with FluidMotion Design for Smooth Extension, Swivel & Tilt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9839ZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JC9XY78F2E2CS9AA356M
The TV is much newer than the surround system. The easiest solution (which will work ok-ish) is to connect the a stereo output from the TV to one of the stereo inputs on the amp. If the TV has a headphone output, a cable like this will work. World of Data 3.5mm Mini Jack Stereo to Twin RCA Phono Red White/Black Aux Audio Lead Cable - 5m https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00WX5M9YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1WFD2ZQS3N0PQEG0Y0VF
If it doesn’t have a headphone socket, you’ll need something a bit more complicated. The cheapest would be a Bluetooth adapter (which will need external power, at least for recharging but you may be able to get that from the USB port on the TV. ). This would work. Amazon Basics Bluetooth NFC Receiver https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Q96NYX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9Y8TMRSC5THG1HJHMVXK?psc=1. To be honest, the TV is pretty good, but the surround system is past it. If you’re looking for a budget solution, you could consider getting a used 5.1 AV amp with ARC (this an hdmi-hdmi connection which allows the sound from the TV to be sent to the amp). You can still use your existing speakers, and upgrade when you can afford it. You can a suitable amp from eBay for £150 or so (new models keep on coming out, so older models are available at really good discounts).
If you still have the vhs player or can get one, there are plenty of options in Amazon for VHS to digitalvhs to digital
Thanks!
They seem to have only display port male.
The closest I could find so far is on Amazon.
But it has USB connector in addition to what I need (and more expensive than just the cable):
KEPULU 3.5mm Aux Cable, ProAudioLine [Strong-Braided Lossless Audio] Stereo 1/8-inch Jack AUX Cord, Male to Male Auxiliary Input for Headphones, Car, Home Stereos, Speaker, Phones and More -4ft/1.2m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N13X6HV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_858TX0TC97WDFVKDT1ZD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can get longer cables if you need it to reach the TV.
You need an Ethernet audio extender or balun. Monoprice has them or try Amazon. Make sure they have free returns cause theres a lot of garbage out there.
Something like this.
I don't know how good your ear is, you could start with a small little amp they sell on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hook up an echo dot, stream to that. I did it in my office and sound pretty good. Not audiophile quality but depends what your after.
The mirror or extend in a function of the computer not the external device.
Are you saying you have use 2 monitors now and you need 2 switch both monitors between all your devices at the same time?
The easy/cheap option is to buy a switch for each monitor. That's a button switch for each display.
The ultimate single button solution is a 4 x 2 HDMI KVM switch. However the way it works it it will switch both monitors and keyboard control at the same. So if you wanted to do a combo of one desktop display and a Your switch it wouldn't work.
Depending on your budget and the flexibility you want. What it sounds like you want is a 6x2 Matrix switch. This would allow you to route whatever input to whatever monitor you would like. There are plenty of cheaper options out there but the one I linked is the only one i found that supports 4K at 60hz, not sure if that's important to you but that's a spec you should look at. The Switch you have currently only supports 4k at 30hz.
ARC relies on CEC to work properly... and although CEC is supposed to work between different manufacturers, it has become largely proprietary because alot of brands don't want to promote inter-brand compatibility and potentially lose sales ... I work for a company called Key Digital and we make our model KD-S2x1X or KD-S4x1X HDMI Switchers that has a TOSlink optical output to feed directly into your soundbar. So, all 2 or 4 sources feed into the switcher, then HDMI outputs video + audio to the TV and audio is also de-embedded to the soundbar. HERE is a link... hope that helps!
Not sure about the infrastructure you're dealing with but I'm using this from my Denon AVR out to my roku 6 series arc input. 40 ft and no issues for two years. Does 4k/4:4:4/18gbps/HDR10/Dolby vision/etc. It goes from rack in garage through walls/attic down to tv, and isn't even in conduit. I would try that or a high rated hdmi balun and return what doesn't suit your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGDFCSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_X-dXFbDH6YKAS
I don’t think there is one that meets your requirements, as composite is obsolete, manufacturers aren’t rushing to design new composite switchers. Any switch you can find is likely to be an old design, from a time when RS232 was the gold standard for control.
The only one I was able to find is from Extron, but it’s a 16x16 (smaller ones are RS232 only), and it’s inputs are BNC for the video and Phoenix connectors for the audio (it’s a pro switch). It also won’t come cheap. https://www.extron.com/product/mavplus1616v?subtype=130
If you really need IP control, you can get an IP RS232 gateway. Global Cache make a pro grade one, or if that’s too expensive you can get a cheapie one from AliExpress Global Caché IP2SL-P iTach TCP/IP to Serial Converter with Power Over Ethernet (PoE) - Connects RS232 Control Devices to a Wired Connection https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B003BFVNS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2FjNFb6D4HS80
The diagram doesn’t look like the back of a TV, but the back of a computer. Before USB was popularized, microphone and speakers used Green (Spkr) and Red (Mic) jacks to delineate the correct input/output on a computer. You can see the same jacks on the far left front of the sound bar.
You could get an adaptor like this to convert the 3.5mm to the dual RCA’s (Red/White) that are prolly on your TV. You won’t need the mic on your TV, except maybe for Karaoke night!
No problem!
Check out this converter, has USB for power that you can plug into your TV for limited cabling.
The way I would install it is to get some Velcro and stick the converter to the back of the TV, hook it up with a 1' HDMI cable, and use the USB on the TV for power for a clean setup.
Good luck with this project and happy gameplay viewing!
Ah ok, that's weird that it's not working in that case that everything is set up correctly.
Well then, how many HDMI inputs do you have available and how many devices are connected to your TV? It's hard to tell looking through the manual and emanual. I would be disappointed to find out if it was only one, HDMI is the standard and there are almost always more than one....
The reason I ask is because you might want to invest in a cheap Component to HDMI converter (like this one) and go HDMI into the TV for best quality. If you do only have one input you can get an HDMI switcher with a remote (something like this) so you can have more than one device going HDMI. As you can see they are both pretty inexpensive and you will definitely get the best results using that setup.
Thoughts?
I ended up grabbing this one off amazon just to see if it will work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTWGBHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It says its supports the full 18gbs for 4k 60 at 8bit 422. It also has auto EDID so it should recognize that when I switch between my 4k and 1080p monitor that the resolutions changed. Any switch that supports 4k 60 has the bandwidth to support 1080p 240hz theoretically, so i'm hoping it works.
Bose (Better Off-with Something Else) used to use RCA connectors for speakers which is very non-standard. You could buy a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMW6Q1B and cut it (so you didn’t need to cut the male cable that does into the wall) and connect to bare wire to your speaker outputs. However normally those small speakers connect to a subwoofer which is also a cross-over. Skipping this could blow speakers. Especially if you are sending much low-end to them. That’s my memory of Bose but I’ve never been a fan of anything but their headphones. Good luck.