When my spring broke I ordered a 4 pack on Amazon for 12 dollars. And I think it will last a long time, it feels considerably stronger. Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096RCR67F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4VR8EWTYNQYX4GG60H4J
There are some good upgraded ones on Amazon. You can get an 8 pack for 12 dollars. Makes you knife feel much snappier. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096RCR67F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XT15V2QY0BQHXR9B7S8R
This one is $50 and it’s incredibly easy to use. Bring the edge back to life in a few minutes. Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L72P245/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_T9AGC3G83J04CMAV2BQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd recommend this one from iFixit. It comes with a ton of bits and is super handy to have around. Plus the driver on iFixit kit is very well made.
This one, but instead of the grey stone I have a strop
Lansky Professional Sharpening System with Coarse, Medium, Ultra Fine, and Serrated Medium Hones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KN3OKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QMC8GDM7E3S70FAB3W6Q
It's T6 and just pick up a Whia tool that will cover both the clip screws and the pivot screw (T8)
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Yeah, I’m asking whether you think this version, which has 2 Diamond and 2 ceramic, is the one I should get or if it’s not worth the extra $9 to get over the one you got.
Looks solid, it’s more expensive than the sharpmaker though. I’ve also read about needing a 15 degree angle option too, which none of these seem to have. Is that necessary to have as an option for the knives I mentioned?
No matter what color anything is, you can always dye to black. Sometimes you get most of the way there accidentally by overdying in some other color like forest green or brown. But if you fuck something up, you can always go black.
Be aware too though of a Rit product called Color Remover. I don't know how it works with other kinds of dye, but it works with Rit dyes. If you either fuck up or you just don't like how the color turns out, pull it back off with this.
I've used it twice, and in one attempt I got i'd say about 95% of the dye back off, which is very very close. In the other case, if it wasn't 100% it was 99%. It was so close you couldn't tell (didn't start with white so I was going off memory of the original tan).
But while you could go white->light blue->black, you could not go white-> green -> orange. Whatever you've got as your base layer is going to influence your final color. I've had disappointing results with tan scale for example. In some cases it's the closest I can get to white, which would be perfect, but what it does is dull the final color. I wanted a vibrant red knife and started with tan but it came out dull, muted, and a bit brickish colored. So I undid it and tried purple. Same thing. Just kind of sad.
With that said, some base colors will work with you depending on what color you seek. I had a slate grayish bluish color that went navy very well. I had baby/sky blue that went peacock green very well because yellow + blue = green. I tried some yellow first, lightly, just to test that and was able to get it leaning light green, then came in with the peacock green to go all the way. If you're starting with tan, forest/hunter green or chocolate brown will work fine, etc. There's a banana yellow knife I'll get soon and see if bright red dye will make it bright orange, or if bright orange dye will produce the color I'm after.
I actually just read about loosening up the pivot screw to make it easier to open. It’s a bit too tight out of the box, I guess it was the same for you. Google has informed me I need a T6 Torx bit to do this, and I was unable to get any movement with the tools on my Leatherman or regular screwdriver. Is that what you used? I was about to order this to use for this purpose. Would love to hear the detailed steps you took to make opening it so effortless. I need to buy some gun lube for my new P365XL too lol...