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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/blueyeti:
![Pop Filter,PEMOTech [Upgraded Three Layers] Metal Mesh & Foam & Etamine Layer Microphone Windscreen Cover Handheld Mic Shield Mask,Microphone Accessories for Vocal Recording,Youtube videos,Streaming](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51ErUAzNUmL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/blueyeti:
The most popular reviews in /r/blueyeti:
I've been using the 5/8 to 3/8 knurled kind with my Blue Yeti like this one for use on a cheapo boom arm:
amazon.com/gp/product/B01FFL0RTW
but it should really fit the 5/8 thread unless it's not a 5/8-27, and if it's stripped due to different metals like what the reviews say on this tap. There are a variety of threading options for 5/8 such as 11, 18, 24, 27, but the one you need is 27.
Hi there! Sorry to dig up an old post but I was able to thread the mic stand fully into the microphone by using a right angle usb-micro usb cable from star tech!
StarTech.com 2m Micro USB Cable... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EBGGXS2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yeti nano and elgato wave stand work flawlessly fully screwed in!
yeah... I picked up a micro-usb to usb-c cable for use with mine. and have a bunch of those fifty cent usb-a to usb-c adapters lying around which also work.
if it helps, this is what I use:
Due to the length, youll more than likley require an active USB extension cable. (Normally anything over 5 meters would require this)
It was a standard one from Amazon. It's good but a little too big for my 24 inch monitor if I want it pushed right back against the wall.
The link can be found here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08BYJ5BCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't care for the esthetics of the foam mushroom top that makes an already phallic mic look even more like a dick sitting on your desktop or hanging in the air with a mic arm. lol
Maybe someone on youtube has done a test for ambient and off-axis noise limiting with one of the foam tops? That might be one of the only things that comes to mind as a benefit for the foam dome, but if your Yeti is in the cardioid pattern, the item linked below should theoretically help with that as well.
I went for the following a few years ago and have enjoyed it for limiting plosives and such on my Yeti. I also didn't want one of the clamp-on pop filters that would move around too much or be affected by jostling. This one was a nice solution for my needs. It's closely connected to the mic, has a sleek look, and does the job well of helping with plosives.
you can also get one of those USB hubs with on/off switches like this: amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O
otherwise it will always be on when your computer is plugged in. There should be USB power options in the bios, which should be the easiest no-cost way, or the windows "usb selective suspend" way in power settings. Some ports and bios that don't give you the option are always on and you can't do anything about it besides the on/off usb thingies.
You're gonna want a mini-b to type c cable like this, or an adapter thingy like this, but the adapter is probably gonna make it a bit too long and have the cable bend weird and get damaged.
I haven't ever tried any of these, but reviews look ok. Do note that since the mini-b spec is only to USB 2.0, you will only get 2.0 speeds. But even then, the audio will never ever get close to 2.0's max speed of 480Mbps.
It's a USB 2.0 mini-B kinda like this one. It's very likely the ones in your possession are the "for charging use only" and so it's missing 2 of the 4 cables for data. If a new regular mini-B cable doesn't work, then the port is probably bad on the yeti. You can DIY fix it for less than $2, with some labor and soldering experience.
There is for sure supposed to be threads there. Looks like you bought a fake/clone, or is factory defective (prob not worth that much as a collectible). You can tap your own threads with a 5/8"-27 tap kinda like this one. Be sure to use some sort of cutting fluid/lubricant like tap magic or wd-40.
For an intro set, you can probably do well with any of the focusrite or m-audio xlr usb interfaces. Shure, Rode, Audio-Technica provide good value XLR mics. Basically, just get equipment from reputable companies and sources. XLR cable thickness also matters quite a lot, like at around 18AWG for each of the 3 connections (just don't get anything smaller than 20 gauge). This monoprice XLR cable looks very good quality, with 16AWG per wire. I don't know what your specifications are for sound engineering (and are unlikely to use intro-mid end equipment like the streamer stuff I listed), but if it's to get the most precise and accurate sounds, it will likely cost at least 5k worth of equipment, and probably up to somewhere around 20-40k. /r/audioengineering should have way better suggestions than from me haha
From another site that describes your exact problem (do a ctrl+f on "tiny fraction"), it looks like you're doing it right by using teflon tape to wrap the threads around, like plumbing. You could try the knurled ones if you want to, if they gave you the cheapo ones that go all the way in. I use these, since I'm kinda starting a mic collection and need multiple. You might as well get 4 for $7 than 1-2 for $7.
I ordered a few different cables from Amazon before I got this one which works for mine
Does the same thing happen on your PC? If it's a grounding issue, I've seen folks install ferrite chokes or use cables with one on it.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KLCWH6/
Can't guarantee it'll work, though.
I found this on amazon Amazon.com: CAMVATE Mic Screw Adapter 1/4"-20 Male & 3/8"-16" Male to 5/8"-27 Female: Camera & Photo (disclaimer: i dont know if this will work, its better if you did more research on that yourself), but if you can't order from there, you could try searching for a quarter inch screw hole adapter anywhere else.
It ended up in the trash, sadly. I got one of these and, the quality may not be as good and it might look cheap and nasty - but it works - all of the time: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microphone-Fifine-Condenser-Recording-Videos-669B/dp/B06XQ39XCY
ok, so what is happening is. the cable is vibrating causing vibrations in the mic. (static/buzz)
the fix! is to get a 10 ft usb 2.0 or higher extension to dissipate the vibration threw the wire. thus removing the buzz.
here is a link to one on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1NNTYY3U4I65T&dchild=1&keywords=10+ft+usb+extension+cable&qid=1595558207&sprefix=10ft+usb%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-4
lol this had took me a year of testing shit to find the problem.
A lot of people like this arm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7UYBO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a lot of arms don't fit the Yeti so be sure to double check before you buy a different one.