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Lots of blocking, plus hydraulic jacks. Moving Heavy Things by Jan Adkins is a great illustrated primer from WoodenBoat.
Just keep in mind: if the boat is heavy enough to crush you, you'll want someone with you on the job who's done it before.
It doesn’t. This would be for charging a house battery. The manual says it’s 12V 60W for charging or lighting.
https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/QuixoteMD/bf100-manual-outboard-owners-manual
Page 23
Used copies are available for about $12.
You also can 'preview' read much of the book using the "look inside this book" feature on Amazon.
Get a couple books. Not that much credible material online. Principles of Yacht Design by Larsson, Eliasson and Orych is the modern standard textbook. C A Marchaj is a bit deeper, might be overkill for a highschool project.
As far as CAD goes, if you're interested in naval architecture beyond this project, do yourself a favor and switch to Rhino, the industry standard. A fast, lean, well documented and easy to learn surface modeller as opposed to the bloated and overpriced Autodesk crap.
Free to try for 90 days, and 80% reduced for students.
https://www.amazon.com/Building-Second-Revised-Expanded-Build/dp/1565234839
i used this book to build my canoe. it's simple, concise, and explains things well.
If you want the more in-depth, detail oriented, covers everthing you need and more that you don't - then this one: https://www.amazon.com/Canoecraft-Illustrated-Guide-Woodstrip-Construction/dp/1552093425/
We did this in one of our old sailboats that always seem to take on water. What we learned is to attach a small bit of flat hose to the last bit and tape it down to your lowest point so that the pump sucks in less air and you empty more of the water.
Easy + cheap: something like a PDR racer. You can literally just screw + glue plywood, then paint it with house paint.
I’d recommend this book. It’s got an incredible detailed guide on how to build cheap boats, and also a great guide on decent homemade sails.
Edit: theres this great guide online. You can literally make one for about $100.
If that doesn’t work I can recommend a steam machine. I used it to bend 1” thick Sapele and it worked pretty good. I used some heating ducts to make a 10’ long tube to steam the pieces.
I have the bar lights from rural king. I've also been told this setup is bright https://www.amazon.com/Deformable-Ceiling-Adjustable-Workshop-Basement/dp/B082W6SWPW My dad has the one from Home Depot ans said it was bright.
I was looking for something else earlier, and had found this: https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Electric-Brushless-Controller-Motorcycle/dp/B07KF8M5W6 which looks quite similar.
You could rewire a car alternator, or sometimes treadmills will have DC motors.
Wetted area is a significant concern in hill design. Wetted area increases drag, but waterline increases top speed. Further, bouancy and righting moment are strongly affected by hull shape at various angles of heel.
All of these issues are competing with one another when designing a hull. Increasing waterline allows higher top speed (based on the bow to stern standing waves), but increases drag in the water (needing more sail power for the same speed).
A narrower hull will have less wetted area and less drag, but will also have less stability, and be more difficult to right itself from high heel angles. This could be offset with a heavier keel, but that's more weight and so you need more sail... which means you have more force pushing you over!
I found Principles of Yacht Design to be accessible, albeit highly technical, introduction. But I am a trained engineer in other contexts, so that probably helped... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H878Q54/ref=dbs_p_ebk_dam
This is the safe option.
Alternatively, you could apply the methods in this book to determine appropriate scantlings but, as others have pointed out. you still risk finding out that the hull shape designed for wood isn't developable in metal.
It varies, particularly on older motors.
Most steering systems (i.e. uflex/teleflex) Are designed to slide into the tilt tube -- so as long as your motor has an accessible tilt tube that should work.
You will need a connecting rod that goes from the steering system to your motor, and sometimes additional brackets and connectors depending on the motor, but I'm assuming a motor of that size isn't a tiller setup, so it should have the mounting points for steering already installed.
Would need to get a more detailed description (i.e. serial?) of the motor, but most likely you'll just need this:
​
For those who want to know, I was able to find self tapping stainless screws at menards and amazon as well as mcmaster carr, bolt depot and jamestown distributors. Since they were inexpensive I ordered screws from amazon as well as buying some from menards. The amazon screws are 410 but for my application (freshwater only) they should be fine. The ones from menards don't specify but are probably the same. I was surprised at the selection at menards vs lowes and home depot. Its not worth the trip to those two. The screws from bolt depot are also 410. Id say that leaves jamestown and mcmaster carr plus maybe any other boat specific store for 316 stainless but I think these will work fine they look like quality screws. I will check them from time to time. （350pcs）#8X3/4"Phillips Pan Head Self Drilling Screws, Self Tapping Sheet Metal Screws - 410 Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9MKMVL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5AGHRY2V117TSQC6YVQR
Jetovo 100 Pack 410 Stainless Steel Wafer Head Phillips Self Drilling Screws Sheet Metal Tek Screws, Modified Truss Head Self Driller - Size: #8 x 1" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HX9TZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K76P5DMVDH6M8H4SCM2F
Some sort of deck mount like this?
I just searching for "trolling motor mount" and this is the first one that looked like it would suit your application but I'm sure there are other options.
Do a search for threaded inserts, various sizes and work great for many things.
Get some grow automotive 1705 silicone, wax and grease remover. It'll clean 5200/4200 sikaflex and silicone like it's nothing. It doesn't mess up lp or gelcoat. It's a game changer. Used it for 15 years building custom boats. One customer was so amazed with it he had us include a gallon of it when we shipped his boat to Hawaii.
Grow Automotive Super Klean Wax, Grease, and Silicone Remover, Gallon (GRO-1705-1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IK1SSDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SFQ0JYYZ4TXCJYRXRJ8F
That battery is a bit spendy for the AH. You can get a neverstart deep cylce with twice the capacity for $90. Part of the difference though is wet, that you have to keep upright mostly. Weight follows capacity, so more capacity is more weight, and beyond dollars you might want to consider that. AGM is a maybe a bit better with weight too, but it's not a huge difference like LiFePo4.
For about the same money on the charger, you could just as well get one that could also do 10amp, as well as the 1 amp trickle. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C5SZ2H/ref=emc_b_5_t I've got a similar thing for the cars, but not brand name like that one, and the frustrating thing to watch for on the el-cheapo chargers is that they won't charge a dead battery, like if it's down <10volts.
Trolling motors are built for trolling speed. More power is just able to push more weight. None of them will go faster than a brisk walk. Maybe you could re-prop them for speed, but not sure that's guaranteed. At the same speed, bigger motor or smaller motor will in theory use the same amount of juice for the boat's weight. In reality, that's a little different, but not significant.
If you want things pretty, it might be nice to get a box for the battery. There's something to be said for not being able to drop a tool on the battery and have it touch both posts. If I were running a setup like this again, I'd get a generic battery box, and glue an anderson connector into the box that I could just plug the motor into.
I wrote a book about such minimalistic (cheapo) boat building. Now, this was before the global supply chain uncertainty, in the pre-COVID year of 2019. The title is misleading. Still a fun hobby.
Your Fifty-Dollar Kayak https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084DG778T/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_N0ZM58B9CMAWY1K34PB8
> models
I am a big believer is modeling using models as a tool to learn. Especially by creating lots of models of boat designs from master boat designers. You can get an insight into their thought processes by "deconstructing" their designs. So much of what makes a boat "good" isn't mathematical formulas, but rather intuitive "feel" built from learning from prior masters.
Centuries of tradition involve this. Building on prior successes, making small modifications. Your brain can learn the "feel" of the shapes of well known prior successful boat designs, and then elaborate and bring the ideas forward.
Paper models are great, but computer models are even faster to prototype.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085ZMC4WS
This one worked great for me . Received it fairly quickly and it was solid. I had to put a breaker bar and use all my weight to break it loose and this tool held up without getting damaged.
I would say it’s some sort of pulse with controller but I don’t see any power wires. That means there’s A possibility it’s getting power from the motor itself and grounding one lead or the other to control direction. If so that’s going to be pretty specialized and will most likely have to be bought from the manufacture of the motor itself.
If there are some power wires I’m not seeing then it should just be a straightforward swap for another PWM controller with a reversing switch. Depending on how big your motor is something like I’ve linked below Would be the easiest thing to replace it with. It’s a lot simpler because you don’t need a separate switch or knob but you do have to cut a bigger hole. Having said that I am not familiar with the brand listed. Also, while it has a 20 amp output, I have no idea what size motor you’re running.
Linky to simple pwm control. Once again I’m not recommending this specific unit.
DC12V-60V/20A Motor Speed Controller, DC Motor Speed Controller, Forward/Reverse Electric Motor Speed Regulator, Suitable for DC Brush Motor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TSJ3XPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M6XCPB56N5YFY8P5BBGM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
x2
Tyvek is expensive and they don't last. I use these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EYZHMG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're not perfect, but a big part of it is to just stop noticing. I know that's not what you want to hear, but really, after a while you just don't notice as much. Beer helps too.
Many diesels function the same, as previously mentioned, finding someone to actually repair this beast though might be a challenge. Parts, considering this engine is not in production any longer, will be difficult to find. Ebay and craigslist will be your best bets there.
Search for model numbers and pick up Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/0071475354/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_996WFQZJ64EEKK16G8FG.
I like your approach. Use lots of epoxy, and you'll be fine. I wrote a book on non-perfectionist boat building, in fact. My "design" (if you can call it a design) used the cheapest quarter-inch plywood I could find.
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with Included Bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener Size; Holds up to 265 pounds Each in 1/2-in Drywall by TOGGLER (20 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMCHQ8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_32SACY5CED0RPW6MFQCE
Something like this in 316 Stainless, you can swap the length of the bolts as needed
Rust-Oleum 207009 Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C029O8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This stuff. Cheapo Rustoleum additive. Works awesome. Just be careful, I rolled it on and it flicked specks of paint all over the place when I rolled it down.
I wrote a book about how to build a much more basic boat than what you have in mind, but might be a good introduction to the hobby.
https://www.amazon.com/Your-Fifty-Dollar-Kayak-Nate-Otto/dp/B084DG778T/
I used these clamp-on dealies for a few years, they work fine so long as you reef them down and are not leaning hard left or right
One thing i was going to try was getting the muller 12 gal tank (see reference)and put a universal fuel sender where the fuel guage is on the tank... either by cutting the hole out where the current cap is (if it is small enough of a current spot there) or by dremeling the sender ring to fit under the cap of the guage.
My other option was an aluminum tank like this (see reference) but i am unsure about these topside for expansion or how to hook up to ourboad motor with a single line?
Others have posted some good fibreglass guides (Russel Brown's Epoxy Basics is also good) but I'll add that the most common problems occur when you try to do too much in one go. If you mix up small amounts at first you won't need to rush.
Also, even a small boat is a big project. Keep the momentum going by doing something every day, even if it's just sweeping up. Particularly with epoxy, you'll often find yourself gluing one part in and then not being able to do anything else until it's set, so a little bit every day during the week is often more productive than a whole day at the weekend.
You won't always want it that way up and level, you'll want to turn it around as you work on it. You also probably don't want a massive custom-made stand taking up space all the time. I'd make (or just buy) some knee high folding platforms like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HOMCOM-Folding-Platform-Aluminum-109Lx40Wx50Hcm/dp/B01GR5QDY8/ref=sr_1_3
If you make them yourself you can make the top V-shaped, to fit the boat's keel without wobbling. If you buy them you can make a box with V-shaped sides that fits on the stool.
And maybe a normal height saw horse or folding work bench (if you don't already have them)
Some cheap Chinese made vinyl. Though its pretty durable, it would seem. Not sure how well it will do in the elements, but I'm gonna make a cover for the gauge area anyway, for when the boats not in use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08516V2V3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_BjIPFb4FBGQF2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>Trevanian
Hi, No I never heard of him or the book, I found the name from an album made here in Ireland in the 1990's https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shibumi-Tuesday-Blue/dp/B000091O9S
The name just came to me while lying on my back welding the centre seam of the hull in 2009.
There's lots of great advice here that I won't repeat. I'll just add that I found these plastic putty knives to be really useful when epoxying. I ordered 3 sets since they're semi-disposable. I also used a set of rectangular plastic scrapers sometimes, like the kind you use for bondo, but they weren't as handy. Also, cheap paint brushes are really useful for applying epoxy to vertical surfaces.
The book "How to Fiberglass Boats" is a good resource. You can get by without it, but there's a lot of little details in it and things that make sense in retrospect but that you wouldn't necessarily think to do the first time around.
Good luck!
There's lots of great advice here that I won't repeat. I'll just add that I found these plastic putty knives to be really useful when epoxying. I ordered 3 sets since they're semi-disposable. I also used a set of rectangular plastic scrapers sometimes, like the kind you use for bondo, but they weren't as handy. Also, cheap paint brushes are really useful for applying epoxy to vertical surfaces.
The book "How to Fiberglass Boats" is a good resource. You can get by without it, but there's a lot of little details in it and things that make sense in retrospect but that you wouldn't necessarily think to do the first time around.
Good luck!
Hmm... I would probably just use something like this or even see if a vinyl wrap was possible.
I was always intimidated by fiberglass until I started working with it.
West System Epoxy is easy (their measured pump system is genius).
Don Casey's Book got me started.
Thanks for the advice, I went with your method of laminating strips for the coaming and it turned out great! I I'm planning on varnishing my boats this weekend, and I will create an update post not long after with pictures of the progress.
I wanted to ask though, surprisingly the hardest thing so far about this project has been shopping for spray skirts... Do you have any advice on where to get a spray skirt for a custom shaped coaming? Pretty much everywhere that I found online will tell you if their spray skirts match a specific prefabricated boat, but totally leave out the circumference and/or actual dimensions of the thing.
I just bought this one on Amazon and it has the circumference I need, and it's almost too long from front to back, but it's not even wide enough to reach from the left side to the right side of my coaming, so now I need to return it and try to find another one that's wider, but isn't outrageously long. What can I do here?
> I wear glasses for vision correction so safety glasses never worked well for me.
I also wear glasses and need PPE at work. I use these, they're awesome. I can also wear them with a respirator.
This is an example of the sort of 4-stroke motor I'm thinking of. Of course I would use wind power and/or pedal power as a backup, although I still haven't decided whether I'd use a lateen sail or build a wind turbine that can help drive the propeller and maybe run a small generator.
I haven't launched mine yet so I can't speak to the stability, but price wise it's very duable, two sheets and the book is dirt cheap https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Boatbuilding-Dynamite-Payson-Paddle/dp/0071472649
I'd like to avoid direct contact of water <--> wood if I can help it. If we were to epoxy everything, would something like this work? We used that combo for the fiberglass tape portions.
Not exactly, hypalon adhesive is used for flat surface on flat surface. Aquasure is more paste like and can be used to fill an opening like this. It's a high strenth flexible glue mainly used for diving suit repairs. But it works very well on hypalon too. I've used it a few time on my rib. It is not UV resistant so expect it to peel off in visible area's.
What size of clamps do I need. I found a couple bulk bags on amazon, but I don't want to get ones that are too big or small to use.
The first boat I built in high school was the weekend skiff . A simple boat which turned out nice and the directions were easy to follow.
I also built some simple open, single person, kayaks with a group of kids for a summer camp that was from two sheets of plywood. I don't have the plans anymore but those were really simple and the basic boat could be made in a week course with teenagers.
Ian Oughtred book is excellent: https://www.amazon.com/Clinker-Plywood-Boatbuilding-Manual-Oughtred/dp/0937822612
John Gardner book is also great: https://www.amazon.com/Dory-Book-John-Gardner/dp/0913372447/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1492717229&sr=1-2&keywords=john+gardner+boat
Kit boats are excellent intros, Chesapeake Light Craft is a good provider.
Boatbuilding classes are great too, Piediver suggested a good one
I did find this $10, and if you spend more you might get better quality, variable speed etc. but this one is so cheap and will probably be very worth it
These tools are great, you can sand, cut, grind, so many different attachments for these, they pretty much do it all. It sounds like you are getting the hang of it and you might not need the multitool since you have a pretty good system down but check it out they are great to have especially for $10
Getting the hang of it is one way to put it, I just fake it till I make it. ha Thanks for that link! I think I found one, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F9TE06M/ref=psdc_2445476011_t1_B005AZI12O but I'll probably save it for my next project as I've already completed most of the sanding. I am pretty sure I'll be building another boat in the future. I'll definitely use it on that.
Assuming 3/8" line, put this in a place where the line is not going to move or be tugged on much. WIX Filters - 33003 Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSEUPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LsYKyb6QYQ9JQ
There's this one on their web site:
http://nisboats.com/oughtred/mainpages/construction.html
I guess it covers things that are generic to all their boats - I've not actually seen it, but it seems like a good idea.
If this is your first time working with epoxy, I'd recommend this book too. It'll probably pay for itself in reduced wastage and mess. I bought it half way through my build and wish I'd started with it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Epoxy-Basics-Working-Cleanly-Efficiently/dp/149284182X
I recommend Epoxy Basics: Working with Epoxy Cleanly & Efficiently
It's a fairly thin book, full of pictures, so reading it won't slow you down. It's full of things that aren't obvious to a beginner, but that the experts forget to mention. Even on a small project it'll pay for itself by reducing the amount of wasted epoxy .
try the six-hour canoe. It's a stable little vessel, easy to understand the construction, and very little spiling needed to lay it out. Built one when I was 13 for my first boat, and I still have it (31 now)
A long skinny sharpie-style hull like that can point like crazy. The key is to get a really good foil shape for the board and the rudder, to fair everything down very slick, and to get good sail shape. The difference between a boat that tacks through 110 degrees and a boat that tacks through 90 degrees and beats Lasers to windward is good foils and good sails. If you stick a polytarp sail on a broomstick and grind the edges off a plywood board, you can still go to windward, but it won't be pretty. If you put a good sail on it and buy or make decent boards you can kill people. Long skinny hulls like that are amazing.
Gary's book is $15 or so on Amazon. You'll learn a ton from it, it has drawings in it, and they're great boats.
Okay! So get a hose with a primer and the right adapter, and one more follow up- I'm looking at this part(which I believe is the right size)https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Aluminum-Withdrawal-Tanks-Upto/dp/B000MTB83W/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465786948&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4+npt+fuel - do I also need some sort of metal adapter to connect this to the hose? I'm sorry again for my ignorance, this is a new area for me! I do keep the gas tank within a few feet of the motor so I think that's okay- just curious as to why closer is better? And on that motor you're saying you just had to pump the bulb to get it to start? Thanks again!
I highly recommend Devlins boatbuilding easy to read and understand with loads of really good info that will help you realise your plans. http://www.amazon.com/Devlins-Boatbuilding-Build-Stitch---Glue/dp/0071579907/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462641662&sr=8-1&keywords=Devlin+boatbuilding
The green canoe is wood and canvas. This could be a beautiful thing, but if you have no experience them, I don't recommend getting it.
The red canoe is fiberglass and would be easier to repair, but it looks like it's gone through several poorly done repairs and the seats also need work.
If you just want to go canoeing, I'd look around on craigslist for a cheap canoe in better condition. There are usually plenty of them out there.
If you feel the need to go for it with wood canoe, check this link on canoe repair. Also get the book This Old Canoe
>maybe use sail track and sliders
If you do this, the guy who built the boat might cry. It sounds like a very traditionally built boat. A sail track certainly isn't traditional.
If you look closely at the picture you linked, there is a thumb cleat right where you described. The thumb cleat is used to secure block for the jib halyard. The jib is flown without a stay.
The mainsail should be laced to both the mast and the boom, as shown in the picture. To strike the sail, you fold the boom up to the mast.
This is all described in extensive detail in John Gardner's <em>Dory Book</em>. I would bet a large sum of money that the builder used that book as his reference.
Hey I am currently finishing up a very similar project. My grandfather built a boat in the 70s and I'm almost done restoring it. A few tips: -Get an orbital sander and a buffer disk. It's a foam pad that prevents you from sanding too deep into the wood. Festool has them online. -When peeling off the fiberglass use a heat gun to keep the wood from sticking to the fiberglass. Don't use too much heat though because it can start to burn the wood. -Get a mask. One of those breaking bad looking ones. Your lungs will thank you. -I bought this book and its a phenomenal resource for fiberglassing: How to Fiberglass Boats https://www.amazon.com/dp/0939070065/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xxL4vb9PDP0RH -If possible, find a canoe repair shop and pick their brains. I found a guru in Minnesota and I wouldn't have been able to do it without him.
Finally you should have fun! I thoroughly enjoyed restoring my canoe and I can't wait to get it on the water. Don't be daunted by the project. There are tons of people and resources to help you! Let me know if you have any more questions!
I just finished reading this book, and it's excellent: http://www.amazon.ca/Buehlers-Backyard-Boatbuilding-21st-Century/dp/0071823050/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430013881&sr=8-1&keywords=backyard+boat+building
It includes plans for a few boats, including a 18' schooner. The author originally designed it as 16-foot (http://www.georgebuehler.com/pogo.html) but included the longer version in his book. You can probably build the 18' a few feet shorter, to match your desited length.