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The most popular Services mentioned in /r/bookbinding:
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The most popular reviews in /r/bookbinding:
You definitely can! It can go a bit warped from the glue though, as it has no protective backing. If you are really attached to a specific pattern, try an iron on adhesive- you can buy them cheap on amazon. Not entirely sure what its designed to be used for but it will add a bit of protection to your cloth, and makes a pretty good, cheap, bookcloth. I’ve tried it and it works well :) I’ve linked one I used, but any should work. I think there’s probably YouTube tutorials that use this method you could look up
Neenah linen paper is great for pen ink. It also comes in reams and is quite affordable. I'd use your fav art paper for a watercolor or mixed media journal.
Bookbinding: Its Background and Technique by Edith Diehl is phenomenal if you want to learn traditional binding. I taught myself to bind almost entirely from that book.
Thank you!
The cover material is pleather than I just bought at a fabric store. Theres a softer backing on it though (cotton maybe? There was no info on what the material was, sorry!) Which made it really easy to glue!
The board is binder/chip board that i bought off Amazon ( https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0013JRFUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ThgUFbMP7DRWF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ). Its great quality, I like it a lot. It seems sturdy enough and does have some flex to it-- enough that I can bend the journal in my hands.
I've had this dumb thing lying around for literally years. I ordered it from McMaster-Carr, who don't stock it any more. You can find similar products on Amazon or places that sell woodworking hardware.
>I would like to try making novels. What paper would I use for that?
Can't really go wrong with regular printer paper. But if you want to splurge, you can always try the HP Premium 32lb paper. Fair warning, it is pretty thick, so if you're printing a lot of pages, a book press is absolutely needed to reduce swell and you'll have to learn how to back the spine. Otherwise, the 28lb paper should fit your needs.
>Is there an extra benefit with the nipping press? They are more expensive then the laying presses.
You could consider making your own! At the end of the day, the nipping/book press is meant to apply lots of pressure to the textblock, so you can improvise with some C clamps and wooden boards lying around. As for me, I went to Home Depot to grab a sheet of plywood, cut it into 12x12in squares, drilled some holes near the corner of the boards, and ran some fasteners and wing nuts through to make a few book presses. I did the same for the finishing press, but cut them into 6x12in rectangles to make them easier to move around.
As for the extra benefits, if you follow my method, you could conceivably just make a laying press big enough to also work as a nipping press. At any rate, it's far cheaper to make it yourself instead of buying it commercially.
I have this train case: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Options-Crafters-Train-Silver/dp/B00I0GU8RG/ It's super sturdy and I could also probably knock someone out with it if I had to :-)
I've recently bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NO7PYYI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It is expensive, but it's not MAD expensive like some of the other options, I'm getting some really good edges now. I considered using the sharp knife and metal ruler option, but I couldn't figure out how to keep the blade sharp enough.
If you got for that cutter, make sure you wipe the blade down before using it, it comes with some sort of lubrication on the blade apparently.
If I learned anything from Sage Reynolds(and I've actually learned a lot), its that a roller is an amazing way to apply glue. I bought this from Amazon. It works incredibly well for pasting on endpapers and gluing out cover materials. Plus the small tray uses less glue and is very easy to scrape back into the mason jar I use to hold my glue and then rinses clean afterward.
Hi everyone! I recently decided that bookbinding is something I want to try out, as I'm kind of a bibliophile and always dreamed of being able to do something like this, but never really considered how until now. I bound a small Coptic Stitch notebook with scraps of yarn, cloth, cardboard, and printer paper. It's pretty poor quality, but it is functional, and I'm immensely proud of my first attempt. However, I'd like to work with more than just scraps. I'm in the market for some tools and materials, though I'm going to college soon and have a lifetime's worth of expenses near ahead of me. I've piddled around Amazon for a while, and I've found a starter kit that seems to work out nicely. If anyone could vouch for that, that'd be nice, and if it's a no go any recommendations help!
A couple other questions:
Is there anywhere I can get materials and tools affordably, and do you have any tips for saving money on these things?
Is printer paper fine for simple projects right now, or are there outstanding reasons I shouldn't get used to working with it?
I'm not dirt poor, thank God and God willing, but I need to be conscientious on how I spend my money (textbooks being the most major expense in my future). Thank you all!
https://www.gutenberg.org/ has many books available that have entered the public domain (copyright expired). When a book enters public domain varies from country to country, but I believe the most common time is 70 years after the death of the author. So, a series like Lord of the Rings wouldn’t be (legally) available to just print out at home for a few more decades.
Well, I guess you could print your own. However you should be aware of the laws of your country. For example, in México our Intellectual Property Law allows anyone to print once in a time a personal copy of any work. So you could search for local printing workshops in your area. Before Covid-19, any student finishing their degree was require to turn in a printed thesis, so little printing presses were abundant around universities. I don't doubt that they would print the whole work. You could also how to some office depot and print a limited number of pages, because they don't allow you to print the whole work due to copyright. The following link it's quite sad for printer, but for normal folks it's just amazing. https://z-lib.org You could search for a PDF version and even print it yourself.
It’s absolutely doable. You just need to make sure that the fabric you’re using for the cover (and also the holes created by the embroidery) don’t allow the glue to seep through. To do this, I use Bondaweb, in whole sheets. Bondaweb is the stuff used to hem clothing, usually sold in strips, where you fold the hem on itself and sandwich the Bondaweb in the middle and then iron to bond the fabric together. But with the large sheets, one side bonds while the other side is a smooth sheet which won’t allow glue to penetrate.
So for making the fabric into a book cover, iron the Bondaweb sheet to the back side making sure you’ve got the rough side against your fabric. The heat bonds the sheet to the fabric and now you have your fabric which can be glued to your board without allowing any glue to actually touch the fabric. It acts as a layer in between.
I hope I explained it all well enough, if you have any questions just ask. I only use this method to create covers, as I use fabric I have dyed or utilise old clothing. The Bondaweb can peel off your fabric easy enough if want it to peel off, to watch out for that as I can imagine it would be easy to peel away from the lumps and bumps of embroidery thread. I’ve made a book cover with some simple embroidered lines.
Here’s a link to the Bondaweb, I didn’t know it was available in large rolls which you can cut to size until I researched a way to turn my own fabrics into covers. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vilene-Bondaweb-329-Fusible-Double/dp/B01ALLIDTW
My brother and I used to use this stuff for our camera equipment. Not 100% sure on the dimensions of each cube/if it’s small enough for pens, but it’s easy to work with, and you can completely customize the size for each pen without having to make a mess trying to cut it!
If you’ve got a saw and some wood glue handy, you could also use wood or bamboo strips to make custom dividers, maybe line them with some thick felt or felted wool so they’re soft on your pens.
Keep us updated on what you end up doing!
These days I'm using Canson Mi-Teintes 160 gsm paper. It comes in many nice colours, it is strong and it efficiently conceals the tapes and chords glued below.
I'm also in northeast Oklahoma, and I just buy my PVA off Amazon. It's pretty cheap considering it goes a long way.
If you need somewhere local, I've had good results with helmars acid free glue, found at hobby lobby. It's way more expensive than the stuff I get off Amazon though, so if you're going to be using a lot of it and want to save money, I'd suggest getting PVA from Amazon.
Hobby lobby and Amazon links below:
https://www.amazon.com/Books-Hand-Neutral-PVA-Adhesive/dp/B0025TZ26Q
I just bought some 24 lb Hammermill HAM104604 (Amazon link), which I'm liking so far. I picked it in part because some reviews recommended it for making books.
Thanks :)
I got the Navy cowhide from Amazon: REED LEATHER HIDES - COW SKINS VARIOUS COLORS & SIZES (10 Square Foot, NAVY) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KJ1SGH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4zg-BbG9CDHM0
I sometimes livestream the process on my twitch channel: https://m.twitch.tv/artofpraisemoyer
Here is mine for paper. It is awesome. It features 3 sizes. Whatever you do, do not get Fiskars (I had to return a few) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For medium to thick cardstock / cardboard I have this one, which I also like a lot but not as practical for light paper.
https://www.amazon.com/We-Memory-Keepers-Corner-Chomper/dp/B0024M5GH4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=we+are+memory+corner&qid=1595549705&sr=8-2
A direct-to-garment printer can print on leather! Here's an older model of what I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089R7G6J7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vyYeFbYHGZK6C Most importantly it can print a white ink base layer which allows colors to show up brighter!
I've only been printing for leather patches but custom leather book covers is brilliant, thanks for the idea!
I also got interested in bookbinding through sealemon and I suck at cutting and measuring process so I got a paper cutter Paper Trimmer, A4 Guillotine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5WC82W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share it makes the triming process easier and has a magnetic thing so all you papers will be the same size
Just gonna throw my hat in and say i also have a very similar guillotine (this one). Love that thing. It def takes some practice to get nice square looking cuts but once you figure it out its great. My first cuts were terrible looking lol. But this is my latest bind. Paperback, 50 sheets of 96 gsm, heavy cardstock cover (dont remember weight), cut after applying the cover. I don't have anything thicker on hand to show unfortunately but i get similar results for everything these days. Most i bind is up to 4cm thick.
Maybe try using a tracker like this: this
You might still have to make the covers a little thicker, but just make them all match the thickness of the card, and if you make the covers and the spine all the same thickness it shouldn't affect the ability of the book to open. I am not sure if this is capable of wireless charging or requires a usb cable, but if it is wireless, you can place it in the center of the back cover, and if it requires usb then you can simply match the charge port up with the bottom edge for easy charging while still having it hidden.
Hope this helps!
I'd go to an office supplies shop and punch the pages and 'spiral' bind them. Ones I've used will let you use the equipment if you buy the plastic binding comb there. It isn't much work and it will lie flat from now on.
https://www.amazon.ca/Fellowes-52325-0-375-Inch-Bindings-55-Sheet/dp/B0000DBMDT/
You should be able to buy just one. YMMV
I've got something like this
can trim books up to 4 cm thickness. I guess can use to cut chipboard as well, I've never tried though.
I've used a couple of kits I bought off Amazon, meant more for children, but cheap and they include carageenan powder. I just used a much larger tray than the one provided. We used one kit at a weekend workshop a friend and I ran this summer and the members loved it. I would certainly recommend it as a way of finding out if it's something you'd like to pursue without hurting your pocket much in the process.
This was one kit. I can't see the other one but I think it was slightly cheaper.
As a previous poster said, treating the paper with alum is a must.
I second the recommendation of tape- it’s really strong and will keep your book together for many years!
I have this brand of tape: Gaffer Power
I couldn't find an all-in-one tutorial so I had to piece the information together from a few sources. I did it similar to single cord sewing and used a picture reference from Doug cockrell's book, bookbinding and the care of books (https://www.gutenberg.org/files/26672/26672-h/26672-h.htm) page 100 notes that for double cord sewing I should use two sets of holes, but I think that's why I'm getting a bad separation of my cords or my cords aren't thick enough. There is also a diagram showing the sewing pattern on page 108 , fig 32. For the herringbone pattern which I did on the second book. (I'll try to post a pic link), I used a pic here (https://cool.culturalheritage.org/coolaic/sg/bpg/annual/v02/bp02-05.html diagram 5) for reference. I just learned about the packed sewing method in this comment thread lol.
Cockerells book suggested cutting two holes for double cords instead of just one so that explains the gap between them. (See here: https://www.gutenberg.org/files/26672/26672-h/images/gs111.jpg ). I see the herringbone stitch does a catch up. Not sure if that works counter to how I was doing it or works with it.
Here is my third book: a sketchook with a fold-back cover, following the tutorial by DAS Bookbinding. I plan to gift this to a lady in my D&D group for her notes -- hence the d20 decorations front and back.
The first 5 pictures are the finished product, and then some WIP shots, including some details on the cover decorations.
This consists of 12 signatures of 4 sheets each, for 192 usable pages. I got some sulphite drawing paper for the project, mainly because it was had short grain and a good weight. I couldn't get any less than 500 sheets of the stuff, and only used 24 for this project -- cut in half along the long edge. So I guess that'll last me for quite a while.
I'd never done linked stitching over the supports before, but I really like it. It rounded nice, but this wasn't backed.
I wasn't quite sure what to do about the reinforcing cloth built into the pastedowns. The original tutorial mentioned using starched calico, so I tried using some unbleached linen from the fabric store. I starched it, but probably needed to use more starch. There were a lot of little threads coming loose at the edges before gluing it down that then needed to be trimmed. Also there's a tiny bit of cloth sticking out from under the front pastedown. I think it's under my thumb in picture four. The next time I make one of these I may trim the reinforcing cloth back from the edges of the endpaper just a tiny bit to help avoid that.
I included pictures of doing the cover decoration using printouts on tissue paper, held in place over foil with painter's tape. I then traced over the printout with a foil quill.
All in all, I'm very pleased with how it came out.
I remove the cover and staples, carefully separate the pages, then trim off the
top with the perforations. The paper in top bound pads tends to be short grain,
which is perfect for folding into signatures.
Lino was soooo much harder for me to carve, even warmed up a bit and they wouldn’t transfer well to be embossed. I carve either the pink speedball stuff (it’s more expensive) or I ordered SGHUO 8 Pcs 4" x 6" Green Rubber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJBX2JX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and these were much cheaper and super easy to carve
I tried to get the guy who made lots of my tools to build me one that was affordable. He refused to take my money, and said all you need is this: https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Gourmet-ESB-301F-Countertop-Temperature/dp/B000B2WOWE/. Build some sort of support around the outside. A piece of cardboard taped in a circle with notches in it would work fine (with each handle resting in a notch) — someone posted a setup like that just a few weeks a ago.
Side-binding would be the easiest durable, scalable option that would also provide a nice book aesthetic. That's where the binding passes through the side of the book close to the spine margin. Some forms even a first-timer could do well.
- Screw Post album. You could bind on screw-posts like a photo album - you can buy posts on Amazon etc.
- Stab binding. Otherwise you could sew a stab binding, an approach perfected in Edo Japan. If you do, I'd just recommend you double-bind in true Japanese style: one inner binding, one visible outer binding. Because it sounds like you need a large book and it's the sort of thing that might be handled a lot, and you probably would want to choose attractive thread for the outer binding, not be constrained to something very strong.
Not sure what your budget is. I use Hammer mill for book binding. About 48 pages folded into half makes 96 pages for writing. Total 500 pages makes up for 1000 pages for writing. Plus ivory color makes it pretty cool for writing. Overall good quality paper.
Thank you for your support, I’ll keep trying :)
Yea, why not. It’s Pepin Van Roojen on Amazon. They have other wonderful designs as well. Hope this helps!
Not sure if this sub is the place to ask, but I'm looking for a style of paper and I don't know what the name for it is or if it's something I'll have to make myself.
This is the notebook and I wanted to make my own for a bigger size and more pages, but no matter how I search I can't find the type of paper. Does it exist to buy sheet by sheet? Do I have to print it?
I appreciate it. I found this that someone used for their softcover project. I hope it works well but we'll see.
I'll take a look at it. It's nearly $40 atm and I don't think I'm willing to spend that much on a hobby I'm still dipping my toes in. As for the paper for the text, I found this, which isn't perfect but worth a try.
I’d a heavy duty paper trimmer with rotary blades or a mat board cutter. You may still need to apply a bit of pressure, but you can take your time and you’ll be guaranteed (🤞🏻) a perfect perpendicular edge every time. Here are some recommendations that might help while you look around: https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Rotary-Paper-Trimmer-15inch/dp/B0006HV9NY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QY1FDGU/
If these would also be too much trouble to operate you could also see if someone in your community wouldn’t mind letting you use their CriCut machine or CNC router, that’d be hands free. Some people layer pieces of board cut with these for cool embossing effects. Alternatively, you could pay someone to cut it at a printing or framing shop.
If you get a chance, look for Keith A. Smith's Smith's Sewing Single Sheets: Non-Adhesive Binding, Vol IV, which has some interesting alternatives-- though be warned, they're relatively advanced techniques (at least one is a multi-needle coptic stitch).
Here's another idea I learned about in my book group that's economical and doesn't take up much room. Roll up the paper and store it in the slots behind a door or in a closet. There's 24 slots, so it can hold a lot of rolls of paper.
This is the set I use - it's designed for linoleum or block printing. I actually came up with this method while screwing around in a printmaking class.
Speedball Water-Soluble Metallic Block Printing Ink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SB72O2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_F34HY049GQCBDFMZFK1Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it on Amazon. The paper isn't crisp, it's softer and thicker than regular paper. I've had it for a while now, so I'm not sure if this is exactly it, but here is something that looks like what I used. Antique-look Paper I sure wouldn't call it watercolor paper because it's very pliable and absorbent. I bought the larger size and a couple of smaller sizes later on. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the edges may have been inked on the larger size because nothing comes off the edges and is very clean when handled, but it does come off the smaller sizes.
The product you’re referring to: Lineco Transparent Mending Tissue 1/2 in. x 12 ft. roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G0TPIZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JGNDWSEJQ0H20FVRTVMR
Thanks for the help! I see that it’s basically a tape. How would I apply that to the spine of this? It would remove the flexibility and folds would start showing if I had one half of the length side on the booklet and the other on the cover right?
Depending on how much you want to spend, I use this Crop-A-Dile Corner Chomper by We R Memory Keepers about $20, but it cuts through just about anything. I've had it for years and highly recommend it. I saw one like this PrintFinish desktop corner cutter that can round over 100 pages at one time being used by Bitter Melon Bindery on YouTube. It's a bit over $100, but I wouldn't say no to adding it to my bookbinding toolbox.
Paper Corner Rounder 3 in 1 （R4mm+R7mm+R10mm）， Corner Punches for Paper Crafts， Corner Cutter ，Envelope Punch Board ，Hole Puncher， Laminate, DIY Projects, Photo Cutter,Card Making and Scrapbooking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VHGLBPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DZTDAQVAG71J7PR38HQW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pretty sure this is what you’re after.
A couple questions:
Is this good for bookbinding - https://www.amazon.ca/Grafix-CB121225-Chipboard-12-Inch-Natural/dp/B0013JRFUA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2N0Q713JH1WEU&keywords=binder%2Bboard&qid=1650031167&sprefix=Binder%2Bbo%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-4&th=1
Where can one find larger sheets of the Chiyogami paper at a decent price?
Is it possible to print on book cloth? If so, how?
Has anyone successfully used a cheaper laser engraver to emboss leather covers?
Looks like a Olfa 9mm cutter. They work great and are made in Japan. Here is the Amazon link
Wow! May have to save up for that one. The most tedious part of bookbinding for me is the paper cutting because i have to change my hand blades frequently for clean cuts. I honestly thought i needed one like this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IASY/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_image\_2?smid=AY2ANYVC1YIBT&psc=1
more than i want to stitch! i’ve done 16 on it. you have to get the kind with the big clamps, if your signatures are loose they won’t cut cleanly.
the only place i’ve been able to find one is amazon
If you looking for more coloring books gifts I have a couple books suggestions Easter coloring book for kids
https://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Testament-Psalms-Proverbs-TruTone/dp/1433548208
Size: 2.6875" x 4.33" 6-point Lexicon type 656 pages Double-column, paragraph format Durable TruTone cover High-quality Bible paper Smyth-sewn binding
I use a variety of rulers, but my personal favorite is the 12" Incra ruler. It's thin and flexible and very exact. I like the openings so I can make marks through them if needed. They also make a centering ruler that's on my wish list. But if these are too pricey, a simple metal ruler will do you for a while. A good ol' T-square and stainless steel triangle ruler would be handy as well. Another type of ruler that's been a help to me are Omnigrip quilting rulers. Maybe I have a collecting problem. hahaa!
Mines the HLL2350DW. Amazon link
Also that sounds really frustrating and I’m sorry to hear that. I’ve had luck here but I’m half worried that if you spend money on the one I got you’ll have the same troubles anyway.
For board, this little bit of beefy titanium works great in my experience. I use it to get my signatures super straight before binding long stitch books, and I can't complain. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y29CRQP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_M8YEGN43GKC18VXP74XM If I do this carefully and also clamp/glue carefully, my case bound text blocks come out looking pretty good, too.
Not massive ones :) I use a thin awl, I am not sure the exact size but its this one from Amazon. Usually it's just enough to get my needle through
​
I cut down manila folders like these.
This is the paper I found; it was the largest available that wasn’t newsprint. [Paper](Strathmore (350-118 STR-350-118 100 Sheet Sketch Plus, 18 by 24", 18"x24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ACAMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_V2D4F7EY2QDFSYY8Q9AJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
There is special software like Adobe InDesign or QuarkXPress. But if you don't want to spend a lot of time researching how to make a nice layout with a professional software, you can use MS Word of Adobe Acrobat. Both of them allow page imposition and printing multiple pages on one sheet of paper.
For Adobe Acrobat: http://superuser.com/questions/690065/how-to-print-pdf-for-book-like-binding
Looks good! If you like the embossed tape labels, I have a dymo too and the letters are too far apart. I bought a cheap scrapbooking labeler that uses the same tape and the letters are closer together. Kinda like this one on Amazon
In addition to the comment history, I recommend Szirmai's The Archaeology of Mediaeval Bookbinding (a hardcopy is better than ebook). It is written primarily for codicologists, but because of the quality of writing, diagrams, and observations about mechanical/material strengths, it has become one of the most influential books in bookbinding.
Have you considered something like this for the covers? The back cover wraps around the fore edge and over onto the front cover, and then is held in place with a magnet.
From my experience the set above seems a tad overpriced.
Depends on the style of binding she does but with this budget go to a carpenter and ask to make her a finishing press or a sewing frame.
Finishing press (wooden screws can be substituted with metal, will bring the price down) https://www.startpage.com/av/proxy-image?piurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.shopify.com%2Fs%2Ffiles%2F1%2F0146%2F0066%2F7190%2Fproducts%2Ffinishpresswlifts_grande.jpg%3Fv%3D1614000207&sp=1639056519T56268514905a3a97b0bf933001b17920781673e46302e2ea68088f5be...
Sewing frame (same here with the screws) https://cdn3.volusion.com/auxp2.3jwtb/v/vspfiles/photos/EQ-100-2.jpg?v-cache=1634882111
Otherwise supplies like bookcloth, good PVA (planatol BB) bookmark silk band (the thing to mark the page where you are at) or some really good scissors are always nice.
Amazon has this one. I haven't purchased it. I luckily found a copy press to meet my current needs for a decent price.
As the other bloke said there is the post bind method, which the one I saw had the top strip fold back on itself and uses magnets to hide the screws. Looking at these photos you should be able to figure out how to make one without needing any fancier tools than you already own.
The other method I saw I dont know its name, but looks to be something you would have to buy. It works like a bulldog clip almost to hold your pages, which doesn’t seem all that secure.
Upgraded Hot Foil Stamping Machine 5x7cm 110V Digital Embossing Machine Manual Tipper Stamper for Leather PU Paper Logo Embossing 1.97"x2.76" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H96CSQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NHATH0Q9VYFW35M4BHV4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My pleasure. I should mention if you run into little challenges from Szirmai, you'll probably find the solutions in Jen Linday's Fine Bookbinding. Szirmai is written for codicologists/historians, but nonetheless it has become valuable for bookbinders around the world. Lindsay's book is written for bookbinders, and although it's about modern fine binding, it goes into all the structural details like shaping the boards and paring & folding leather etc - ie the exact techniques and tricks you'd want for anything in Szirmai. So Lindsay is "How To & Why" in detail, and then Szirmai is the encyclopedia of options. Have fun!
Google Docs? Eeugh!
Ok, for free, right? Um, have you already rejected Libre Office? Not as user friendly as MS Office, in my opinion, but if you can substitute learning the program for money, then you're good to go!
I'd suggest setting up the page size (half-letter size, larger inner margins) and then printing it to PDF using a PDF printer (or just converting your document to PDF using the ODF2PDF extension.) Then, you can print the PDF as a booklet using Adobe Reader, Foxit Reader, or another free PDF printer.
Another way to print signatures from a PDF is to use Bookbinder 3.0. It's a free Java program that will take a PDF file of your individual pages (not the spreads - there's a difference) and print out the imposed spreads to make a signature of the size you want.
The tools you need to use are available for free - but please, don't hurt yourself trying to get Google Docs to do a job it wasn't designed for. It's like trying to build a bookshelf using cardboard and a rivet gun; it might be doable, but it's not what you want, and you'll be very irritated when you're done.
*all customers paid in cash. Your prices should be whole numbers appropriate to your country's bills of currency *display your books in an elevated manner. I used acrylic stands to prop them up or open *do not sit unless you absolutely must. I brought a chair but found that I engaged more customers by standing with my shoulders back and head high. Look proud and welcoming. There's science behind looking proud and feeling confident. *print out info regarding your materials and process. It's the first thing my customers looked at *offer gift wrapping services and brand your packaging with branded stickers such as these *have business cards and use them as bookmarks when wrapping up purchased books *be inquisitive and friendly with other vendors nearby you. You may meet fellow creatives that you can collaborate with in the future! *be open to custom orders! Have an email list! QR codes did not work for my demographic. All customers were 35 years or older with the exception of another studio artist
Good luck! Also I landed another art market in December! Keep binding!
I do not recommend any of these. I had a similar one and its utter crap. I’d spend a little bit more and go for a all metal laminator with temp control and preferably dual rollers like this
You could try printing a picture putting it face down on on some fabric covering it in alcohol or solvent and pressing it down maybe put it in a nipping press. You will need to experiment a bit to figure out what works. This is the basic principal:- https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/diy-at-home-image-transfers-onto-fabric-and-wood
You could try printing a picture putting it face down on on some fabric covering it in alcohol or solvent and pressing it down maybe put it in a nipping press. You will need to experiment a bit to figure out what works. This is the basic principal:- https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/diy-at-home-image-transfers-onto-fabric-and-wood
I use the free Quantum Elephant Bookbinder program to convert to ordered 16-page signatures.
Basically if you plan to print on letter paper (8.5x11 in US) and fold it in half, you can set your page size in Word or Libre Office or whatever to half that (5.5x8.5 in US), lay it out how you like with footers with page numbers, etc., then export to PDF.
That bookbinder program then imports any PDF and reorders the pages into signatures (so it will give you a PDF of full 8.5x11 sheets with two pages on each image). You can either generate individual signatures for printing that way or one big pdf. I do one big PDF, and since my printer can duplex, I just set it to 2-sided and it all prints correctly. Then I take the stack off the printer, grab the first 16 pages off and fold them in half together to have my first signature ready to sew. And so on.
If you want fancier software to lay out your pages, I heartily recommend Affinity Publisher, which is currently half off for a lifetime license--$25. They have tutorials on their website and youtube, etc.
"Ask and it will be given to you", Mathew 7:7
Something like this is all you need, although you'll need to have the book block clamped firmly in a press.
Are you talking about the thicker waxed thread that people usually use in coptic stitch? IMO the problem there would be the thickness not the wax. Embroidery floss would be thick also and probably hard to sew well with. I like using thread that's around 0.5 mm thick and waxed.
which printer do you use by chance?
I suppose if not much shows up its one or more of .. too low temperature, not enough pressure, poor angle, not enough hold time, ...
I'm wondering if a meat thermometer (with the long awl like jab, that you plunge into a roast) would do, in contact to the metal. Doesn't sound ideal. So getting the right temp seems tricky ...
If I need to buy a press, for the kind of type I have, I _think_ its this kind of thing:
(about $300 CDN)
I know for the serious brass type (like the $500-800 USD Edinburgh from Talas), you can get the handheld tool (chase or whatever), so I imagine doing things by hand is doable.
I need to get some more dscraps to work on.. this bookleather is pricey, so better make some more books to make more scraps :P
I would def suggest going with something slightly better than printer paper, mostly because it's so thin.
You can actually find really reasonably priced paper 70lb printer paper on Amazon. Here is the link.
I just bought 2 reams the other day to test out, and I'm quite happy with it thus far.
Can anyone identify what kind of binding's used on this edition? Looking for a hardcover edition of Dune but every available edition looks poorly glued (not counting the folio society edition)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dune-major-director-Blade-Runner/dp/147323395X
I never used a corked ruler, but I think it is a good trick to keep it fixed when drawing straight lines, assuming you don't need to care about the length or have some other means to measure it.
I recently retired my old aluminum ruler because painted markings wore off. I put some duct tape on it and I was pretty happy, not having any issues with extra height. Instead I got a set of steel rulers like these. They are a bit slippery but have marks etched onto them.
I have a foil quill pen that I use fairly regularly (actually an off-brand one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HGT21GX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_RSHTHS58CY8M0WF9D41Q). While it's not the same as having actual gilding tools, I've found it's a nice, low-cost way for me to add some designs to my journal covers.
Hey there! I am not sure to be honest. I got it off of Amazon. It's this thread if that helps!
1mm in diameter
There's a jig sold by We R Memory Keepers https://www.amazon.com/We-Memory-Keepers-660443-Binding/dp/B07JQPDD9R that's featured on SeaLemon's youtube videos. She seems to use it quite a bit, so I figure it's a good investment.
I've been using MDF from Amazon. 30 6x8 sheets for $16. I've never actually used real book board, so I don't know how it compares. Book cloth and paper adhere really well to it with PVA. I struggle a lot trying to cut these with any kind of knife, but I just got one of those mini x-acto saws that I think will work well.
I had been using this for my text blocks.
I have a b+w printer now and can make my own dot paper, but what weight and brightness should I be using, I mostly use fountain pens to write
Thank you everyone for your help. Im going to check out all these suggestions. here is a link to a better look at a different chapbook with the same material as well incase the photos are blurry.
https://www.amazon.com/Birmingham-Baja-Robert-Lynn-Penny/dp/0918644046
You can possibly cheat nice hand writing (or have faded text if you don’t mind). There’s transfer markets that if you put a copy of a paper ink side down on your page and scribble the other side with the marker; it will transfer the ink. I don’t know if you need a inkjet or laser printer and they’ll need to be mirrored so the don’t transfer backwards. Here’s a link to one from Amazon, but I’m sure you can find them other places too.
The Original Chartpak AD Marker, Tri-Nib, Blender (Colorless), 1 Each (P-O) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026HC7GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2HE29WTYZYFZBRYT34GF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Something similar to this is carried in most art supply stores: https://www.amazon.com/Books-Hand-Linen-Thread-Yards/dp/B0025U108E/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=linen+thread&qid=1620093279&sr=8-3
Thanks for the response!
- This is what I was thinking towards the end of my post, but every search I make for a frame like this gives me small metal label holders, which clearly wont cover this. Having a hard time figuring out the correct search query.
- This would be effective, but the original texture and color of the book is really fitting, so I'd rather avoid changing it. [The book box is specifically going to be a D&D dice box for a blue dragon character].
- No table press here, haha. I'm JUST recently getting super into bookbinding videos, so I'm but a wee babe in this world.
I am definitely leaning strongly toward your #1 suggestion though. That's essentially where I ended up as well. Some of the bookbox videos I've seen use magnets, but this one's cover is a bit too thin and I can't feasibly glue an early chunk of pages together due to the slightly odd way the book is bound. I DID, however, find a solution that might work. I just have to find a good means of attaching straps to this relatively thin cover without it sticking up, assuming I can manage to have my cake and eat it too, in that regard haha. Are there any adhesives you suggest that would be reliable in keeping straps of this material attached to a book cover? The first thing that comes to mind is glue from a hot glue gun. Not exactly elegant, but typically effective haha.
What everyone has already said works wonders! However, also for straight lines I previously used a triangle tool (triangle square, triangle ruler square). Here's an example amazon link. If you have a metal one, you can also cut with a razor on it - just put pressure on the tool so it doesn't shift! I usually would mark my paper first with these, then cut on my papercutter since it shifted ever so slightly during cutting. The straight 90 degree edge helped keep it (mostly) straight.
The binding you’re describing is comb-binding, and the dimensions and size of the holes used in comb binding is standardized in the binding industry for this style.
It is possible to add pages to your comb-bound book yourself if the comb itself isn’t brittle. You can do this by hand by gently prying apart each individual comb to thread extra paper onto the comb itself. The problem is the extra paper you want to add has to be punched in the same exact way or it will not fit onto the comb. You will need a specialty punch/binding machine to create the punches in your extra pages. One example:
https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-Binding-Machine-Star-5006501/dp/B008WJYMTQ
Doing this on your own could be more bother and cost than its worth especially if you don’t plan to do many comb bindings for your personal use. If the comb is brittle and cracks (this is a common problem with older combs that have been in use for a few years), you will have to buy a new comb to replace the cracked one, and typlically combs are sold in packs of multiples.
Your other option is to bring your book and extra pages to a place like Staples copy center, and ask for them to rebind the book in the same comb-binding style by combining the old and extra pages together with a new comb. They will have the equipment to punch the new pages and rebind the whole thing with a brand new comb. It will certainly be cheaper and far quicker with reliable results than trying to do this yourself. This is the option I recommend.
Hope this helps!
You can buy drill bits that’ll cut holes:
Wideskall 5 Pieces Hole Saw Assortment Kit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07227QK9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XAZXSBJ39F6PP9E3SCX3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCTVGQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's the tool set I bought- and added a bone folder and a bookbinder's glue brush. Thanks!
Yep, that's the one. This view of the inside cover on Amazon shows the same two pictures. I guess the pheasants were under the jacket?
If I wanted to put the least amount of effort into this, I'd just buy some binding tape (black clothtape), cut a thin strip and apply it to the affected corner(s). It'll be noticeable of course, but you should be able to cut it narrow enough so it doesn't cover any of the decorative elements, and it'll make it able to be held and read again. This kind of thing should work: https://www.amazon.com/Bookbinding-Black-Repair-Bookbinders-Inches/dp/B077FXJTTS
It's a really valuable tool to have, and I'm sure if you look around you can find cheaper versions. I buy mine from my local art store, where they sell it at whatever length you want.
I have an amazon basics slide cutter thing that folds and was cheapm its a lot of slog for multiple pages but it gets the job done and scores too. The trade off in small and affordable is more effort.