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I bought a book. The rest can but picked up at lumber yards or online. Book was written. Easy to follow directions. Walks you through from start to finish. Built mine over summer. Loved it! Building a Strip Canoe, Second Edition, Revised & Expanded: Full-Sized Plans and Instructions for 8 Easy-To-Build, Field-Tested Canoes (Fox Chapel Publishing) Step-by-Step; 100+ Photos & Illustrations https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565234839/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_a1nTFbW3KJWNB
These water socks are super legit. Bought them cuz they were cheap and had pictures of galaxies on them but an impressive little water/camp sock. Feet were protected while cliff jumping and stumbling around camp and dried really quickly. Would recommend esp cuz a cheap Amazon order
Edit: and by sock I mean it’s kind of like a slipper with a reasonably thick rubber sole
You can buy or make something like this. I made one out of stainless and cedar. I made mine so It ends up putting the trolling motor just behind me. https://www.amazon.com/Top-Quality-Trolling-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B07FVMJQH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=canoe+trolling+motor+mount&qid=1622418849&sprefix=canoe+trolling+&sr=8-5
that's about it, from what I've seen. they do make extensions for the tillers:
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Transom-Trolling-Telescopic-Extension/dp/B001PTHKPI
I've used this type of mount on a regular canoe:
https://www.amazon.com/Canoe-Soporte-transversal-aluminio-cenizas/dp/B07FVY72G4
I bought some with eyelets, got a couple of sets because they do wear against the edge of the hood if you use them often. These ones we're like $10 a set a few years ago and they work like a charm.
Very ingenuous! If anyone is interested in a pre-made cupholder my husband uses a Lil sucker and I use a Can-panion
Got them off Amazon
Ohmfluke 2 Pieces Safety Travel Flag for Kayak Red Canoe Safety Flag with Webbing for Kayak Canoes Towing Warning Flag Safety Accessories Flag Sign Kit Reflective https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YDQ2PMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X25JJ7R58A17FFZ2EESC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just got these for my sail kit, but haven't tested them yet. You set them a few inches above the water like a kid's training wheels when he's just about learned to ride a bike so they don't drag in the water. They don't do anything until you start to tip.
> The floats weigh 4lbs each and have a 27lb per float buoyancy.
Would have kept you upright and also kept your boat floating if it got swamped with waves or something.
They're really beautiful for sure! As for more information about his process, his boats were based on the "Herreschoff Dingy", he was actually the Japanese translator for the book about the technique: https://www.amazon.com/Building-Herreshoff-Dinghy-Manufacturers-Maritime/dp/0913372331
Hey! I think i’ve decided to just get an inflatable one for now. That way I don’t have to concern myself with hauling one, buying stuff to hook it onto my van, etc. I’m also going to be super busy starting this August with school etc, so i’d rather not buy a canoe to just take up space in the garage when I might not be able to take it out as much as i’d like to. I found this one on Amazon, (it’s actually a Kayak) and it seems to have really good reviews and is fairly cheap! I’m hoping it’ll last me two years or so and then I can get an actual canoe. Intex Explorer K2 Kayak, 2-Person Inflatable Kayak Set with Aluminum Oars and High Output Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7EXF4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ojMNEbJB01KM7
There was one on marketplace for $200, 12 footer and looked in good shape (just needed a new paint job) but I hesitated to quickly and now it’s gone.
Thank you for asking!
One of these, fill with 20L of water = ~44lbs :
I bought 2 but have only ever had to use 1. They're pretty slow to fill up. I just fill it with my bailer.
no you need marine epoxy. There is some prep work like sanding around the area. Once you find the right product you should be able to find lots of videos.
There is no sane way to fill in the other scratches. for that one small hole something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1919324-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1405604/dp/B00KH62K50?th=1
thanks, can you link me a product? Is this what I would buy? anyone have experience using this stuff? no need to sand first?
So no way to fix the spider-cracks?
I have a similar seat for my aluminum canoe, the only difference is it has two flat metal pieces on both sides for extra support. https://www.amazon.ca/The-Coleman-Company-2000020265-Stadium/dp/B00339C3QE/ref=asc_df_B00339C3QE/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292984996977&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1388711731977133344&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm...
I use Malone's Big Foot canoe carriers on my sedan. They're functionally very similar to the canoe brackets from the big roof rack brands, but sold at a much more reasonable price. I can't justify $200 CAD for essentially just a few clamps with padding. Great thing about Malone's carriers is they come with all the necessary tie-downs too if you don't already have them.
https://www.amazon.ca/Malone-Universal-Canoe-Carrier-Stern/dp/B002616HD0
Or you can go with gunnel foam blocks for the low budget option: https://www.amazon.ca/Malone-Standard-Block-Universal-Carrier/dp/B000SXN90C You put the foam blocks on the gunnel before lifting the boat up, and just readjust the block positions up on the rack. These purpose-made foam blocks would compress less than pool noodles.
There are small companies that have multiple options for seats and seat back for canoes.
If it was me I'd probably replace the plastic seat with a trapezoid-shape piece of marine plywood or thick HDPE then use it with one of the "SitBacker" seats. Around $100 total
Hey, for the lash straps, would something like this work? https://www.amazon.ca/Coghlans-7890-Sleeping-Bag-Straps/dp/B000FAPJLK/ref=asc\_df\_B000FAPJLK/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292948251512&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17782422141165628155&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=...
Hi there! I got it from a local big-box store but it's similar to this one. If I don't have it wedged in with camping gear I put a yoga mat under it to secure the feet a little better. Potato was very unhappy that he couldn't see over the edge when laying down but was settled and much happier once I propped him up. It does obviously raise his center of gravity but since he could see over he wasn't pacing and adjusting as much so I actually felt more secure in the boat.
Heads up - automod tends to delete links with referral numbers in them
Idk if that was intentional or not.
Here's the non-referral link - https://www.amazon.com/GI-Genuine-Military-Carrying-Backpack/dp/B08D2KD79Q/
I'm sure there's a dozen of the same ones all branded with different names, but these are FishYuan. I ordered on Amazon for like $15
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
My sister and I used to sit on the floor of dad's canoe on flotation cushions like below. Not much of a lift, but just enough for us. Might be helpful and they're convenient and relatively cheap. https://www.amazon.com/X2O-Sports-Approved-Floatation-Cushion/dp/B08K3JGV45/ref=mp_s_a_1_33?adgrpid=53586782542&gclid=CjwKCAjw2f-VBhAsEiwAO4lNePSevLleWp9Xdwumj3_MlFliUISnreDcioipa91pCvv4du30GLQjLxoCtX8QAvD_BwE&hvadid=409958475960&hvdev...
https://www.amazon.ca/Quick-trunk-tie-down-vehicle-transportation/dp/B0845G55PL/
Cheaper than Thule but built solid enough for the job. I like these ones specifically because the loops are much larger than other options, which may be necessary depending on the trunk.
It's always good to have a set of foam pads. I like it when they are designed to be used with and without roof-racks. I have a nice Yakima rack for the old car, but it doesn't fit the new car, but the pads hold it off the roof nicely. When you use them with racks you can really get the straps snug because of the squish in the pads.
A couple of straps around the belly, center the front with a line, and you're good to go. I like to use these hood and door anchors for tying down the ends.
I have a Yaris hatchback. I use foam blocks. I have straps front and back since there are almost no good places to tie to on my car. And I use ratcheting straps front back and middle because it’s easier than tying.
I do a lot of plastic welding. It's super easy and can be done to blend it so it looks like nothing ever happened. You are welding poly to poly so the bond is permanent. Make sure to get the good Hobie brand welder- there are a lot of junk welders on the market. It's way more expensive but it works and lasts.
We have used a child bed pop-up tent quick clamped to the gunwales. It's easy to stow, setup, and cheap.
If you are new to canoeing, I can't recommend this book enough. For selecting paddles when starting out, your main concerns will probably be the paddle length, shape and material.
Length can be tough to determine on land, but the basic idea is that the blade, and only the blade, needs to be fully submerged in water. Which means your primary metric is the length of the shaft, from grip to where the blade starts. One trick to figure this out is to sit in a low chair, hold the paddle upside down vertically with the grip touching the floor and look at where the blade starts. It should be about armpit-shoulder height. Every paddle brand/shape is different! So you have to size every different paddle this way. Your shaft length on one paddle will be different than the shaft length on another kind of paddle.
Shape is mostly determined by where you will be paddling, lakes, rivers, shallow, deep. For a starter paddle, you can't really go wrong with a square-shaped or beaver-tail style blade. Pay attention to the grip as well, some are far more comfortable than others. The T-shaped grip can be uncomfortable over long periods of time in lakes (i.e., all day/multi-day), but it does give you a good deal of control for river paddling.
Materials, the best paddles are wooden, but can be quite expensive. Wooden paddles can be a pleasure to use, however, so you need to think of them as an investment. For your Pelican boat, you might be good starting with a less expensive wooden paddle, or an aluminum-shaft paddle. I'd avoid plastic-shaft paddles-- they're mostly for whitewater use. Once you figure out that canoeing is something you and your family want to do more, definitely look at upgraded wooden paddles, it will be like night and day.
You can do this, I used to do it with my Civic all the time.....but, that front strap....no. Bring it all the way down below the front bumper. I guarantee you that there is a hole along the frame or maybe even a tow hook to tie it to. And that rope/knot looks janky as shit. Try something like these.
on our Pelican Kayaks and the Canoe, I use MA1 pop Rivets which has a waterproof gasket, they come in variable sizes depending on the application, also works well on our old Sears and Roebuck Fiberglass flat-back canoe also. You are going to want that gasket seal to prevent water from seeping in around the pop rivet when you are taking your lean to that point of the gunnel.
Thank you for the response. Before I jump at this one, I also found this 16' Lincoln Canoe. Between this and the Mad River 16' which would you say is best?
Cycling/lifting gloves will work, something with padding in those places subject to friction. There are even dedicated paddling gloves to address this problem.
One thing I like myself is a set of knee pads for paddling while kneeling...
I've done a similar setup and used a hand crank to raise/lower my 18' safely. Reese Towpower 74337 600 Pound Capacity Winch , Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WZ4KBS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_30Z24QGD96DW0XTBJ9VJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
30? Years ago I picked up some neoprene knee pads at Trailhead, an Ontario outdoors shop. Similar to these, Cate's Garden Ultra Comfort Knee Pads https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MU40OCI Those have velcro straps, mine are like tubes, you need to pull them on like socks. Most comfortable pads I've ever used. I'm currently looking for a shop that will make a copy what i have.
Chestnut was famous for their cedar strip canoes.
As far as I know, they never made a fiberglass model. Based on that fact, the style of seats, and the crooked application of the sticker, I can confidently say this is not a real Chestnut.
here's a steal on a kevlar boat. the wood looks a little tired but nothing out of your wheelhouse. id check this out. eff that busted grumman
i hear you. i don't love either of those for you. im going to send you 2 links, they're both out of your apparent price range and theyre a ways from Lincoln but they're about the perfect boat for you for a while if there ever was one. they're both old town Packs. 12' and 33 lbs and Royalex. the next best pick would be an old town guide 119 in poly, i see those for $3-400. there's an awesome deal on an old town camper on marketplace in Lincoln nebraska if anyone's looking. i think you'd be wise to keep shopping and spend your canoe time watching some good educational videos. Marketplace - Canoe https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/191729165441337/ Marketplace - Old Town Canoe https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/254401665699737/
I use this on my rack-less Prius and love it. Add some ratchet straps to the front and back of your canoe and you're good to go!
Alfa Gear Universal Folding Lightweight Anti-Vibration Roof Rack pad for Kayak/Canoe/Surfboard/Paddle Board/SUP/Snow Board and Water Sports with Hood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RNBCM83/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_kAZpdOvN2WV46
Hmm yeah I'm looking at that rapids now. The paddling mn book says Sauk Rapids is the most difficult rapids on the river. From the book:
"This stretch of whitewater rates class I in low water and up to class III in high water, with 4-foot waves forming at a large ledge. Use caution and scout from the bridge just downstream. Portage if necessary on the left through the city park."
So yeah, strange the book and DNR website both give it a class I in their short descriptions.
One trick I learned in the boundary waters to keep gear dry is to wrap everything in a separate garbage bag (tent, clothes, sleeping bag etc. each get their own bag) and then divide those into ziplock big bags, like these:
I've capsized out there before with this setup, and although a small amount of water got into the ziplock from small puncture holes made during the trip, the double protection kept everything completely dry as far as I could tell. I'm sure you've got you're own setup, but just thought I'd mention this.
Of course the other option to keep your gear dry are these:
In lieu of foam on the hill I started using something akin to these.
Another option. Nice too for then I have kneeling aids for any position in the boat or if I change boats.
I use an old therm-a-rest ridge rest classic pad. You can still buy them for about $20US. I like the flexibility to fold it over for extra padding if needed, roll up one end to go underneath my ankles while kneeling on the other end, or just lay flat in the boat to make a comfy seat for a passenger in the middle. Also nice to be able to take it out of the boat and use it for comfort on shore. Maybe not as elegant as a purpose-built kneeling pad, but more versatile!
It's a little higher than your budget, and it's in Northern NJ, but here's an Old Town Camper that looks to be a Royalex layup, with paddles and some crappy lifejackets for $400.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/253427335140218
If I had room in my garage for another 16' canoe, I'd probably buy it.
I use one of these they work perfectly.
(http://Advanced Squat Pad - Barbell Pad for Squats, Lunges & Hip Thrusts - Neck & Shoulder Protective Pad Support https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A86Z870/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_D94NWFA2XANSAN50Z3YC)
This one is pricey, but here's an alternate rack that has worked well with our penobscot 16 in case you're still in the return window. Suspenz Flat Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OO8FTM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SG4PP2969118G6MJ0807?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Regarding the tarp- one thing I've read is to keep the tarp suspended above, rather than resting on, the canoe to avoid moisture trapped against the canoe.
This, and I would use a fine mesh screen.
https://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html
If you want to try to color match: https://smile.amazon.com/5Color-Plastic-Welding-Welder-Sticks/dp/B07425BS2D
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QD5NGGR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the ones I use. They come available regularly.
People will tell you ratchet straps can damage boats. I've been hearing that for 30 years while using ratchet straps. I think that is mostly a concern with ultra lightweight kayaks that are relatively easy to crush. I can't for the life of me imagine how a modern canoe could be damaged by ratchet straps. You'd need to do something incredibly stupid to make this happen. What I have seen happen myself personally is canoes being damaged when bad knots come untied and when straps fail.
Just two weeks ago I was pit crew for the ADK 90 Miler- a big canoe race. I spent some time looking at all the rigs the crews used for their boats and got to see hundreds of tied-down boats. It was funny how many different ways people attached boats to vehicles. Some people didn't use any ropes or straps at all- they just clamped their thwarts to a rack. A lot of older people just used woven rope once over the boat with trucker's hitches. That was probably the most common attachment method I saw. Plenty of people used ratchet straps and cam straps too, especially for the bigger 4-8 person boats.
Maybe 50% of people used the old-school bow and stern lines tied to the front and back of the vehicle. That was very much needed in the old days when aftermarket racks just clamped to rain gutters on the car. The force of air under a canoe would sometimes rip those racks off. These days with a proper rack you really don't need those lines as long as you secure your rack to a thwart to stop forward/backward sliding.
This is what I use. I have a 12ft fiberglass canoe and I load it with this pretty easily. I am not that tall of a guy either and don't think a normal rack would work when I go out by myself. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0024FOTOW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_PE8S9MAXCDHMSMX2PKB7
Light is third brake light from Amazon also have two light bars on either side.
Softopper, yeah, gets a little rain in the corners. Toyota sells little corner pieces for the corners near the front of the bed for hard shells for Tacoma’s. This softopper gets way more rain in it than the one I had on my old ‘06 Colorado I had before I got the Taco. I’m moving to a hard shell in October. I love the softopper, but I’m tired of fighting rain where I live. It’s just too wet down here.
Cheers!
Chota boots are a great option with light weight wool socks. We used them in BWCAW during a Northern Tier BSA trip- quick draining and plenty of support for the portages - Chota Outdoor Gear, Hybrid High Top Rubber Soled Wading Boots - HYRB-800 Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2IPP3B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B2N9C3JGK70YTF07QBQ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on what you're looking to use it for, my wife and I have 60L and 90L REI Big Haul duffel bags that have been on multiple canoe trips and they've been fantastic. They're not water proof but very water resistant, and have straps that turn it into a backpack for portaging. We use them for our clothes, toiletries, and bedding items, though for extra protection we organize the clothes and toiletries into dry bags, and the bedding one typically gets lined with a contractor bag. They're also just fantastic camping bags.
https://www.rei.com/product/177055/rei-co-op-big-haul-90-recycled-duffel
If you're looking for something smaller and more of a normal backpack, we also take one of these with us (40L) which has been great. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ5N938/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
Edit: just wanted to add that there are definitely more appropriate portage/dry bag systems than those REI duffels, but we wanted something that would also be useful outside of just canoe trips. And they were massively on sale, which helped.
Mine (plain version) is now a sailboat using a Sailboats to Go kit. I also got the Hobie Mirage sail for windier days. Made for a Hobie kayak, but the hull shape and size is in the ballpark of a Hobie Outback so it sails pretty well. The mainsheet clears my head pulleyed at the rear handle, and there's no boom to duck under.
See this link. This is what you use, not a ratchet strap.
Dagger Reflection is my daily driver. I've done lots of odd repairs on Royalex and I had great results with this product: https://www.amazon.com/Versachem-47809-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B0002JN5G0
Here's my Dagger immediately after the repair work: https://imgur.com/a/7A2pBgj There are cracks under the window flashing skid plate and I used more of that window flashing as a larger patch to cover the cracks after this photo was taken.
If I had cracks as big as yours, I would grind them into a V shape channel on each side and fill with plastic welder from both sides. I might even drill "stitch holes" on either side of the crack so that the bonding agent can attach to itself through the hull like plastic rivets.
I would use some type of fiberglass or kevlar fabric to patch over those cracks. My window flashing probably will not provide the protection needed for your repair.
I hope you can find time to document your work because I could learn from you on this big job.
Don't have a rack or anything yet.
Have a f150, was thinking about getting something like this
Also need paddles. Any recommendations for some good ones?
Have life jackets already.
Checked out buying used but couldn't find anything worthwhile in my area.
Fun/Cheap float bags: Bags of Wine. Drink the wine, then reinflate the bags and secure them inside your canoe. You could get a cheap net/hook system to make a "wall" to hold the wine bags into the front/back of your canoe.
If you're asking about Thule I assume you're looking for higher quality but I'll share what I use anyway. I got these and they work out great on my Sedona. Not sure if it's compatible with your rails, but they work great for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GA2HKAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
See if you can find this book in your local library (or just buy it, it's a great resource). Basic Canoeing: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started. This book was immeasurably helpful when I was trying to figure out paddling fundamentals, and techniques in the back. And have a watch of Path of the Paddle: Doubles Basic. This really helped me to understand how the front paddler and back paddler work together (or in worst-case scenario, against each other, lol) to move the boat. The paddling instruction starts about 6 minutes into the video, but the introduction is fun to watch, too (it was the '70s!)
Is this it?
i have removable sit-backers that i have used in mine: https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Adjustable-Support/dp/B0042WZ77I
they give you a way to recline and take a break, but you can't really put weight against them when paddling, since the paddle is pulling you forward. for that to work, you need foot rests (think kayak).
some canoes can be used backwards (as mentioned by another user) but this one looks like the thwart (the cross strut) is right behind the front seat, and would be very uncomfortable on the legs.
SO, if you paddle solo, the best thing to do is to add a lot of weight up front so it doesn't stick up out of the water and catch the wind. Like 80lbs or more. I use two 5 gallon water jugs.
https://www.amazon.com/ITRAZ-BPA-Free-Collapsible-Emergencies/dp/B0719WRPPT
good luck!
oh, don't go on to moving water at first. learn in a local lake on a windless day.
I just discovered Canada Maps Pro
It has large topographic map selection as well as route planning and tracking. It also allows for map caching for those times you are in the bush with no reception. Once recorded, the track can be replayed on the map and it displays all the stats of the trip.
Kevlar Felt - 1 Yard - 36 Inches by 40 Inches - Used for Canoe Kayak to Protect Boat Bottoms from Rocks, Oysters, Sand, and virtually Any Object That Would Normally Puncture The Bottom - 3.5 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y6KXJKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_29rtFbK1ACZ2Q
This plus some epoxy may do the trick. Full disclosure, I have never done this kind of repair.
I cannot recommend this enough, I know it cost money and not everyone has a hitch receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7018100-Canoe-Loader/dp/B0024FOTOW
The ones the other guy shared are good. I’ve also heard good things about these.
LE KAPMOZ Quick Hood Loops Trunk Anchor Kayak Tie Downs Straps Bow Stern Canoe Transport Secure Lashing Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GF6MK77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q8xjFbGMYP29T
Good for you! Patience definitely pays off looking for such things. I would suggest something like this. They are super easy and work great for me on my suv.
I think option 2 is good enough. I see canoes strap to the roof of tiny little cars like corollas or Honda Fits all the time. But, ideally you want the most space between where your canoe is being supported while remaining in the flat part of the gunwales.
An other options would be to either remove the front or back cross bar and use foam blocks as far as possible at the front or back to give you more distance.
Also if you don't want to buy the Yakima or Thule brackets and you're worried about your cross bar scratching your gunwales split pool noodles will fit right over them to protect them.
Whatever you decide to do I highly recommend getting hood tie downs in the front to keep to canoe centered on the roof
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M300IYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CU2hFb9RX1APH
I found it, its originally for cots. I'm sure there are other brands that you dont need to buy a cot with.
Edit to add, heres a similar one on amazon, or just search "Cot organizer storage"
I got 25 yards of webbing from Amazon (plenty left over) and a staple gun from Home Depot.
If I could do it over I might have gone for 1.5 or 2 inch webbing just to make the job a bit shorter.
Thanks for the advise. I was thinking of getting these on amazon to strap the front cam strap to.
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Thank you! I was thinking of getting these on amazon to put on the hood so I can strap the front
Don't get me wrong, I love Old Town canoes. My primary boat is a Discovery 119 with an anchor trolly on the front. But some of their accessories are excessively expensive.
Yeah, you don't really need much more than 5 lbs if you have a grappler style anchor. Even a 3 lb bell would work. A cinder block would be far too heavy honestly, and I'd be afraid of you tipping over trying to pull it up over the side.
Here's the first one I found on Amazon. About $15, comes with line although you might want to get slightly thicker.not because I'm worried it would break so much as it is just easier on your hands to pull out the water. Make sure to get something to run it through the front or back or an anchor trolley that can adjust, because you don't want to mount it to the side. The current takes you the wrong way and your boat can go over when the line goes taut under your keel. it's best to have it all the way to the front or all the way to the back if at all possible. Just running it through a random loop in the front or back with plenty.
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Kayak-Grapnel-Anchor-Kit/dp/B00URBOKUS
I have a Mazda 3 as well! it is a different generation than yours though. i just remembered the key to what makes my system work. I have a hitch on the back for a bike rack. so I would also use a canoe loader bar like this one. It worked for me because i already had the canoe loader bar thing from using it with a previous truck, and the hitch was there for the bike rack. so that wasn't an up front cost to me. but really, i suggest it. the hitch is useful to have and easy to install yourself. and this bar is cheap. Look at the pictures of cars using it on the amazon link.
It is a waterproof access cover for the front bulkhead. Or as my wife calls them salami sandwich storage areas. They also provide more buoyancy. You can buy them from beckson’s.
8" Clear Center Screw-Out Deck Plate - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XCPNI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RY04CbDWFMQ13
IMO, a rack isn’t mandatory. I regularly put both kayaks and canoes in the bed of my truck. It’s a 6.5’, and you get 20-24” extra with the tailgate. The biggest canoe I put in there is 14’6”. I anchor the noses to tie downs at the front, then tie through the rear handle as well. I’ve been up to an hour of interstate travel with two boats in the back. No issues.
But if you’re worried that you don’t have enough support at the tail, you can always get something like: https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70231-Extender-Ladder-Lumber/dp/B01D4CXIKY
I use a lasso lock like this for my canoe in various circumstances, such as locking to a car or a post, etc - works really well: Lasso Lock-All https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IMPKH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_orVPzbKDBSJZQ
They are not that complicated to build, you can do it! Get this book.
Honestly, if you are wanting something under $20 it's going to be hard to find. You can you use a simple hand chain saw like the one in the link to get the job done. It will be a bit awkward to do in a canoe but, I can see it getting the job done. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GPOO8U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bp5lzb02CJ9JC
I have a rooftop pad that lets me slide the canoe up onto the roof from the rear of the vehicle. It works. Another option, if you have a Yakima rack, is an extension bar that slides out from the side of one of the crossbars, letting you hoist one end and then the other. I think another poster mentioned a similar item from Thule.
Thanks, I have not read that one but i have Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North America. Which is where this design comes from.
Get yourself some wheels. That dude will be heavy at the put-in. Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/TMS-CART-CANOE-KAYAK-KY001-Carrier-Trolley/dp/B0082365AQ
That dude will ride like a tank through whitewater. You got yourself a good deal on a solid boat. Have fun.
If you're just doing day paddles you can get by without one... I picked up a mini dry bag for my phone from the army navy surplus store. Which is great for keeping your phone/ wallet stuff dry and on your person if you tip.
I tried to find it but actually just found a 15 dollar dry bag. Check this out, hope it helps!
https://colemans.com/shop/pouches-bags/u-s-g-i-dry-bag-waterproof/
This is similar to the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0142J43FM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hkZHwb6X35JJB
I had a similar problem when I bought a 70's model Old Town. There were a few deep gouges in the skin and I wanted to repaint the whole thing anyway. One of the best products I used was 3M Marine Repair.
It's a little pricey, but it's great stuff. You scoop some of this stuff onto a palate or into a cup and squeeze/mix in a bit of this gel that comes with it in a small tube and it'll begin to harden. Using a putty knife, you'll have about 15 minutes to put it wherever you need it before it hardens. Don't be too generous with it since when this stuff hardens, it HARDENS. Sand away the excess and it'll be ready for paint. Seriously, it works great and is really not hard to use or get the hang of once you get the timing down right.
I'm going to buy an ash center seat with webbing for my 9 year old daughter. I already have a hard plastic "snap in seat" but it is too close to the front seat to be useful with her lengthening legs.
I'm also hoping to use it to solo paddle.