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I posted this over in /r/ChromeOS, as well.

I wanted to have "set it and forget it" addon storage for my Chromebook.

Sure, the USB ports are way faster, but I use them for other things. The SD card slot is only for SD cards. I just needed some storage, not a lot of speed.

A regular SD card sticks way out. Even a "low profile" SD card adapter stuck out too far.

I found this SD adapter on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015130F78/

$9.99 shipped if you have Prime. If you're looking for something really low profile, you may want to check it out.

I got iCloud services working and iMessage/Facetime logged in, but my iMessage can't seem to detect other iMessage contacts. See http://www.fitzweekly.com/2016/02/hackintosh-imessage-tutorial.html

EDIT: worked after following this http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/an-idiots-guide-to-imessage.196827/

It is strange, because after it crashes it will reboot into the EFI shell seemingly because it can't find the boot partition.

So I power down and then turn it back on and it boots properly...until it crashes into the EFI shell again while I'm doing some work.

EDIT: you mean this program? https://sourceforge.net/projects/gptfdisk/

Make the folder /EFI at the root of your SSD. Unzip this and put the folder in /EFI it so that it becomes /EFI/BOOT/$EVERYTHINGINIT

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yzjcdn8w0dk64gs/BOOT.zip?dl=0

(I'm working on a script to automate this part above.)

You should then be able to use /u/MrChromebox's script in the Getting Started Guide and flash the UEFI ROM for your model. Then next time you boot up, you should be greeted by the rEFInd Boot Manager with an option to boot Linux, which will be your old Linux install.

For safety, you should make a bootable rEFInd USB drive. You can find the image and instructions here if you download the flashdrive zip file:

https://sourceforge.net/projects/refind/files/0.10.3/

>So, is it possible to do so from within my installed Ubuntu or do I have to do it from a USB based linux distro or go back to ChromeOS and do it from there?

Yes. It is possible. Make sure you remove the firmware Write Protect Screw first. You can then run the script in the Getting Started Guide from a Linux Terminal.

cd ~; curl -L -O https://coolstar.org/chromebook/setup-firmware.sh; sudo bash setup-firmware.sh

Select the "Install/Update custom coreboot firmware" option.

> Also, if successful, should I expect some issues with booting (GRUB related. I don't think I need/want UEF or do I)?

This is where it gets complex. The current Full ROMs that we support here use UEFI, rather than Legacy BIOS. This will mean that after flashing, you will no longer be able to boot your current Linux install. All is not lost, however. You should still be able to boot it by booting off a USB containing rEFInd:

https://sourceforge.net/projects/refind/

After which, I can help you if you really want to preserve your existing install.

Ideally, however, you will want to reinstall Linux using a distro that supports UEFI (most mainline distros, not GalliumOS, and I'm not sure if the old DistroShare Chromebook distros removed UEFI support). After that, you can run a script I've made that will set up rEFInd to boot automatically so that you will be able boot Linux without any issues. I hope this helps clarify things! Feel free to ask further questions! ^_^

Cool, use this guide. If you know how to use Manjaro, this guide should be enough.

You can't just drag and drop an iso file on a usb drive and expect it to boot.

Are you sure the trackpad and touchscreen will never work? I was under the impression from what I've read around here that the controller for the I/O was open source, so surely it's just a matter of software?

Please correct me if I'm wrong, my knowledge of this topic isn't the greatest.

I've been running a Pixel 1 since July with the standard ChromeOS and Chroot Ubuntu.

I almost took the dive and installed Windows 10, however the issues stated above are what I've read before and it required formatting the rest of the laptop's drive and going full W10 without any ChromeOS, not something I was willing to do with such limited information out there and no knowledge of whether or not I'd be able to restore back to ChromeOS if I wish to.

There are very few people reporting on their experiences and any guides or work done on this topic are rather old and outdated, or aimed primarily towards other Chromebooks with the Pixel 1 (or 2) as secondary's.

I'd be willing to go a little further and give Windows a proper try if I could get it to boot off USB stick, but I'm afraid I don't know how to.

Windows 10 seems like a more ideal OS on the Pixel than the ChromeOS offering if you ask me.

All that said, if you can get either for a half decent price then go for it if you want a laptop that's visually stunning in almost every way,.but the Pixel 2 will be a pretty penny more than the Pixel 1 I'm sure.

I've had many compliments over how good my Pixel looks, whilst everyone has shunned the OS after praising the laptop itself.

EDIT: How about OSX? Has anyone attempted this on a Pixel 1 or 2, and if so what are the results / issues?

These links may possibly be relevant to the topic: https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-install-windows-8-on-your-google-chromebook-pixel.350111/ https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/ec-development

well I'll be, it's a CN60, so I guess it is panther not guado? I was using Developer Information for Chrome OS devices as my guide, and the only i3 asus chromebox was guado.

Could the i3 use the panther firmware? I'm not holding out much hope. even if it is compatible, would I be able to use clover UEFI emulation for a hackintosh? failing those options, could I install john lewis firmware for galliumOS and maybe windows?

At this point I wouldn't be too disappointed replacing my GalliumOS 2955u panther chromebox with a slightly better/faster machine. OS X and windows would be awesome though.

Thank you for the great resource and firmware hard work /u/MrChromebox.

Ok guys, here it is.

Download this zip file and extract the contents: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jxpzncpz1v3z2z6/HDMI.zip?dl=0

Type in the search bar "run" (without quotations) and open the program. Now type in to the prompt shell:startup. Move the file detect_hdmi.ahk to this location. Move the rest of the files to C:. Also download the files in the op and move them to C:\ along with your edid.bin file.

Last of all, download and install AutoHotKey from here: https://autohotkey.com/download/ahk-install.exe

Now simply restart your computer, give it a couple of minutes to load and try plugging in your hdmi.

Please leave feedback and let me know it goes

I waded through that crappy site so the rest of you don’t have to. Here’s the direct product link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VXXG5WZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DY3WFZRDR5TFA1JZFJNJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'd check Ebay specifically for the parts you need.

Replacement Innolux TN displays that will work are about $20-30. Most of the listings will advertise C720 compatibility. Amazon has lots of listings for them as well.

If you find listings of all the parts you need, I can tell you if they will work.

If you are looking for something to help protect your C720 in the future, I like these cases:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HUWDXLE/

I got a low profile SD Card adapter and put a 256GB micro-SD card in mine to get more space. This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015130F78

The only challenge is getting it back out if you need to.

> That's the thing: I can't do that.

That's too bad. I thought you might be having the same experience mine had.

I was getting ready to directly flash the eeprom and bought this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V2M5MVH/ . It sounds like that might be the path you need to go down.

I'm only looking for laptops that are full rom compatible, right? So the 14c would work instead of the 14a? This one should work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0949PCPX2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6XDTBYA5NFPVB4EKDWXAXA

In the meantime, I've downgraded back to the old 2019.10.28 firmware to see what's changed in the cbmem.log file (and also to get my external display working again 😇).

Here's the cbmem output under the old 2019.10.28 firmware, for your reference:

https://hastebin.com/dodudubede.http

And here are the differences between the two cbmem log files, for your convenience:

https://hastebin.com/ayicaxovap.diff

I hope this helps. Thanks!

As an alternative, have you thought about using an external audio dongle? That's what I did with my ASUS Flip C434TA since Apollo Lake audio doesn't work on any distribution. This is of course assuming you don't mind using headphones.

the SSD needs to be NGFF, this is the one I put in my CN62

Yeah. You can't boot your old installations with this new firmware.

If you put this on a USB drive (use the flashdrive version), you should be able to boot your Linux install:

https://sourceforge.net/projects/refind/files/0.10.3/

Yup it was the drive. Got a 128GB,

KingShark Gamer SSD M.2 2242 128GB Internal Ngff SSD 42MM SATA III 6Gb/s (128GB, M.2 2242) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K72YQ9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FWWGPN68KD5X88KZ9B2M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And it installed in like 20 minutes. So far ran into 0 problems. Thanks everyone for your responses, and of course especially to MrChromebox

No Ethernet port? No problem. Apparently, all the cool kids in Mountain View were using these to resolve that issue. I have one for C740. It works well.

Linksys USB 3.0 Ethernet Adapter, Works with MacBook Air, Chromebook, or Ultrabook (USB3GIG),Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LIW8TBG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7NMCDZH2ZVGX4HJ52VKY

I finally did my 2015 Chromebook Pixel LS the other day -- now happily running Arch. (Spent a day on Mint, decided it would be more fun to go deeper into the Linux world.) Thanks again, MrChromebox!

Seems the method of disabling write protection for your device is different from mine, but you'll still have to crack the case.

I'll leave advice on the firmware stuff to more knowledgeable people, but might I suggest investing in a good set of tools for your work? If you try to use the wrong screwdriver, you can strip a screw.

I had a cell phone repair kit very similar to this, and it made things so much easier. Be gentle with the rubber feet as you peel them off, and they can re-stick.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-17-Piece-Electronics-Repair-Screwdriver/dp/B07V6ZZTBF

Unfortunately, my best "resource with detailed steps" is myself . . . :/

You may need more than a moment . . .

You'll need to create an OS X installer. There are tools to automate this, but it's best to learn it for yourself because every hackintosh is a little different.

The basic idea is to use createinstallmedia like so:

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

And then install Clover on top of it:

https://sourceforge.net/projects/cloverefiboot/

And then mount the EFI partition on the drive and put in needed kexts (FakeSMC, etc.).

You could come on your Discord or on Telegram if you'd prefer . . .

I too have about 2 GB space left after installing essential software for daily use, with a 1 GB page file. There are tools like ntlite which can be used to trim the installation, but is not freeware for the full version. I found this WinReducer which does a similar job and is free to use. http://www.winreducer.net/ I removed most of unnecessary drivers, metro apps and services and after installation I got around 6.75 gb of free space, which I guess is decent enough to install other essential apps.

According to the web page below, enabling Debugging Features will also enable USB boot -

• Debugging Features - The Chromium Projects
  https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/how-tos-and-troubleshooting/debugging-features

But, it is not at all necessary for that alone, it can be done in the shell with:

• sudo crossystem dev_boot_usb=1

Also, you can enable any or all of the Debugging Features afterward by running the below scripts with root permission:

/usr/libexec/debugd/helpers/dev_features_chrome_remote_debugging /usr/libexec/debugd/helpers/dev_features_password /usr/libexec/debugd/helpers/dev_features_rootfs_verification /usr/libexec/debugd/helpers/dev_features_ssh /usr/libexec/debugd/helpers/dev_features_usb_boot

> The Dell LULU can't run Android Apps anyways ...

The Dell Chromebook 13 (7310) does have Android support, see below:

Chrome OS Systems Supporting Android Apps

I have one and Google Play / Android apps work fine.

Brunch is nice, I use it on an Acer C7 that reached its AUE date but it won't add any features to your lulu.

Thanks for the heads up about the Write Protect Screw. https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/developer-information-for-chrome-os-devices/lenovo-thinkpad-x131e-chromebook

Wish me luck!

I will attempt tomorrow.

Thank you for your help thus far.

For anyone (in the future wondering), try searching "chromeos_<version>_<model>_recovery_stable-channel_mp.bin.zip" (with Bing, not google, idk why but apparently Bing got better results) . <version> should be replaced with the version number (ex: 6680.64.0 is one from March, 10th, you can try to get them from some more searching and googlechromereleases.blogspot.com > archive > platform version), and <model> should be replaced with the board that you have (see https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/developer-information-for-chrome-os-devices)

I'm not thinking that's the issue . . .

The switch I'm referring to is #5 on this diagram.

The bottom has to hold it down:

https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/developer-information-for-chrome-os-devices/acer-c720-chromebook

I think SOIC 8 clip is the right one for the job. Also, the BIOS Chip (EEPROM) is located next to the left of the keyboard connector.Take a look at here: https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/developer-information-for-chrome-os-devices/acer-c7-chromebook

The UEFI firmware is better. It's consistently updated and includes fixes that will universally improve your experience no matter what OS you run on it.

If your tools don't support UEFI, that's unfortunate, but it's the tool developer's fault at this point, not your fault for updating and not our fault for not having a CSM.

I mean, is this the Easy2Boot you use?

http://www.easy2boot.com/add-payload-files/e2b-uefi/

What you gotta do is install uBlock Origin. :P

That will help filter out the spammy links you can accidently click on.

An ad blocker is part of any good anti-malware arsenal! ^_^

Unchecky is helpful too:

https://unchecky.com/

In order to update to a new firmware you will need to follow these steps. 1. Get a USB Stick and install LinuxLive. 2. Install Linux Mint 18.1 Download Link: https://www.linuxmint.com/download.php 3. Open LinuxLive and choose the ISO image, then select Linux 18.1. After that click the thunderbolt to start the process. 4. Once that is done turn off your computer and keep your USB Drive in. Power on your computer and now you are in Linux. 5. Open up Terminal and go here in your browser https://mrchromebox.tech/#fwscript

Follow the directions from there. Option 3 is the one you are going to choose.

Yes. This is the only way to fix it. You need a more recent UEFI firmware.

The issue was a typo in the code of the firmware . . . :/

Go download the Mint 18 ISO here and use Rufus to make a flash drive with it. Boot the USB and then run the script from the Getting Started Guide:

https://coolstar.org/chromebook/linux.html

You could also use Stock Linux Mint 18 from here. It really doesn't matter. This is just to run the script, not to install.

https://www.linuxmint.com/edition.php?id=217

For Mac, download an ISO from Microsoft (if you go to the media creation tool page it'll notice you're not on Windows and give you a ISO download).

Then, what I use is Balena Etcher to write the ISO to a USB and boot from that.

Here's a good guide:

https://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop/create-a-usb-stick-on-windows

I recommend using an ISO from Linux Mint, an Ubuntu derivative. I use it regularly, and there are no kernel protections present in some distros that may prevent you from flashing:

https://www.linuxmint.com/edition.php?id=217

That seems to be the ticket! Running that last command now makes it say "Capabilities are default".

Just one last thing. Currently, my flags say "0xc00000", but going off of this person's "video" (https://asciinema.org/a/241078), it should be 000000. Will this be a problem in the future? Is this the boot option flag thing from your script?

Just came across this thread, 10/10 effort, love your work.

For anyone else in here who's giving this a shot, I've used these little extra tid bits to move the Users folder to an sdcard, and remove the unused features from Windows 10. This has given me a few extra GB to live with on the dismal onboard SSD the CB-30 has!

Cloudready would probably work just fine. Follow the instructions on this website and you should be able to get it to work. https://www.neverware.com/freedownload#intro-text

Hmm, I tried your advice (thanks for catching that btw, I literally completely forgot to remove that bit) but it's still not working for some weird reason.

Here's my updated DSDT, maybe I'm just missing something glaringly obvious.

https://ghostbin.com/paste/4uuts

> I have read in a previous thread that it was possible to have audio working with an HDMI to USB C adapter, I wanted to have a try. Unfortunately, it is not working.

works here for me, using this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V68NVR

> Could you please let me know if there is a way to get back to ChromeOS?

I don't have a stock firmware image for you at the moment unfortunately. I could provide a shellball for FIZZ, but wouldn't have the correct HWID for SION to get automatic updates

> If not, is there a way to make the sound working on windows for both speakers and the microphone?

see above for speakers. Mic will require USB adapter - mic integrated into the headphone jack won't work

> I would also appreciate if there is a way to make USB work properly on windows as well!

it works, Windows just breaks it on rebooting. Workaround is to only shutdown/power back on. Issue is fixed in upcoming 4.15 release

I've installed Windows on 16GB, but it pretty much HAS to be LTSC, 32 bit would be ideal since the install is smaller (the C720 will not boot a 32bit UEFI executable, so that's off the table). Then to put literally ANY applications on there, you need to turn on compression for the whole disk. You'll run out of storage using nothing but Chrome and maybe one or two other light apps.

TL;DR: Buy a SSD, it just needs to be a SATA M.2 (2248), Something like this should work fine ($35)

Hello again,

I think I may be in a similar pickle now with the ssd replacement. I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-256GB-PM991-MZALQ256HAJD-MZ-ALQ2560/dp/B08K79T9G5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

And similar behavior, Chromebox boots but disk not detected.

Different standards also?

Thanks

Pixelbook is quite expensive imo, even the used one. I came to a conclusion that it is better to buy a non chromebook but chromebook like spec and priced light laptop to install linux in without having to mess with the firmware. I bought an ASUS L210 instead, link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081V6W99V/ Anyways, I appreciate your suggestion!

Just a heads up, chip clips exist so you can modify a SPI chip without having to desolder it. Just be careful because sometimes another component on the board might try to sip power and it'll overload the programmer so it won't be able to power up properly.

I've been using this ZTC 256 GB SSD since 2016:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YDHKIMG/

I don't really have any recommendation. I'm not really familiar with any of the companies that make 42mm M.2 SSDs.

Also going to try this one, along with a usb 3 card that is connected to the extension. It's possible I won't have to cut the case with this setup because that ribbon cable might be small enough to make it out without much issue. Thoughts? An exposed pci outside the case isn't the most elegant thing, but I bet there's a little case out there somewhere that could house it. Or could 3d print one easy enough.

OK, assuming that I get this device would I be able to flash the BIOS, get rid of the enrolment and install ChromeOS on the device? I'm sorry for the dumb question but I'm not exactly a tech savvy. Thank you.

I would recommend against an SD card since that will be fairly slow. A small USB 3 flash drive would work much better, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hl24Bb7AKZ6AG

I use it and it works great.

I think the best way would be to pick up an old Thinkpad (eg, x220) or cheap Chromebook, and a cheap USB flasher (ch341a) and chip clip, and build coreboot for your device. After you brick it a few times and figure out how to make it work, then you can start to look at the coreboot architecture and how things work.

also, this book is a decent starting point / reference

I just ordered the Acer Chromebook 14 see link for details on processor Acer Chromebook 14" Display, IPS Screen, 4GB Ram, 32GB Flash, ChromeOS, Laptop (Certified Refurbished) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5EBCES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NoEdzb4NCQTMA

I am willing to donate to help Braswell run Windows. How much do you think he'll need?

It /might/ be possible to get BYT's audio working in Windows.

We are looking into contacting Maxim, who make the audio codec, and/or other companies who might be able to help us.

However, please do not make posts like this with misleading titles.

USB sound card is the current best solution to audio in Windows on BYT:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5

This is the one I bought, it's unavailable on Amazon, unless you get the 256GB version. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBZH72I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Windows boots from cold to lock screen in less than 8 seconds with fast boot, and around 13-14 seconds with fast boot off.

I ran CDM, here's the results:

CrystalDiskMark 5.1.2 x64 (C) 2007-2016 hiyohiyo

Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/

• MB/s = 1,000,000 bytes/s [SATA/600 = 600,000,000 bytes/s]
• KB = 1000 bytes, KiB = 1024 bytes

Sequential Read (Q= 32,T= 1) : 327.841 MB/s

Sequential Write (Q= 32,T= 1) : 79.623 MB/s

Random Read 4KiB (Q= 32,T= 1) : 110.350 MB/s [ 26940.9 IOPS]

Random Write 4KiB (Q= 32,T= 1) : 58.043 MB/s [ 14170.7 IOPS]

Sequential Read (T= 1) : 391.785 MB/s

Sequential Write (T= 1) : 105.476 MB/s

Random Read 4KiB (Q= 1,T= 1) : 16.020 MB/s [ 3911.1 IOPS]

Random Write 4KiB (Q= 1,T= 1) : 41.156 MB/s [ 10047.9 IOPS]

Test : 1024 MiB [C: 31.2% (34.7/111.2 GiB)] (x5) [Interval=5 sec] Date : 2016/10/03 11:42:23 OS : Windows 10 Professional [10.0 Build 14393] (x64)

>I was hoping it would have fixes to Keyboard/Touchpad that would allow them to work without having to install drivers under Windows.

Keyboard should be possible at some point, but not ATM.

>Well, I know it's better. I was just wondering what advantage(s) it would bring to justify me blowing away my dual-booting Windows/Ubuntu install that I have working so well.

Added an advantage to the post above for those who can't or don't want to upgrade the SSD.

Edit: Added another advantage regarding a keyboard bug that seems to finally be solved! ^_^

ATM, there may not be much advantage for you, but you might want to at least start thinking about upgrading since it will get you ready for future TianoCore firmwares that will bring greater improvements and advantages.

If you are leery, you might wait until the Windows Anniversary Update is out in about a month. That will give time for the scripts and such to be updated and perhaps more improvements and advantages to be implemented. It will also be an ideal time to reinstall Windows anyway . . .

There are ways to convert MBR/BIOS installations to UEFI/GPT, but they can be clunky and tricky, especially for Windows. :/

I've found this M.2 SSD to USB 3.0 adapter very helpful for making whole drive backups. This might be helpful for getting data backed up to another computer before reinstallation:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XC3HA5K/

This machine?

It has a 2955U processor, so should follow the general guide for Haswell systems, which is linked on the sidebar.

Reading is fundamental.

You can def upgrade the SSD and keep your current Windows install! ^_^

What I did was get a USB M.2 reader and use dd to to back up my drive and transfer it to the new one. Then I resized the partitions to use the additional space. This is the reader I recommend:

http://www.amazon.com/Portable-External-Mobile-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00XC3HA5K

Actually, I have the 128GB, for about $60: amazon.com/dp/B00KLTPUU0/ but I did not buy it on amazon.
I am NOT saying that the brand of the drive you bought is necessarily bad and that you must change to a Transcend, I am just saying that Maybe the one you received is faulty... but I cannot be sure. It's up to you.