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Bed leveling is frustrating as hell. This issue has been covered again and again, but for the most part, the paper method works best for me. I usually run a sample, stop right before the filament starts running, and take and 8-1/2 sheet of paper trimmed to fit the dimensions of the bed and lay it on there, then fiddle with the knobs until I feel the nozzle scratching the paper on the 3 points in the manual. The biggest pain on my machine was the fact that the knob on the rear left side of mine seemed to be threaded slightly wrong, so I replaced my knobs with these: Bed level adjuster for Da Vinci printers
They are a DEFINITE improvement since you don't need to grab those knurled rings and can use the legs as a visual point of reference for how many degrees you need to adjust.
The main thing is getting a reading that says success in the DaVinci calibration settings, and then using the paper method to calibrate/adjust.
Try checking out this thread of the the Soliforums, it helped me a whole bunch.
I used that one at first but now use this one, it's much easier to get on. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:623274
Also, I mainly print copperfill and bronzefill which causes the same clicking noise. The combination of the shroud and oiling the filament has let me go through about 3 spools with no huge issues. The oiling part seems to be a must for me though. I usually just spray some PAM cooking spray on a paper towel and run about 2-3 meters through it, then wind the spool back up. That is usually enough for the print no matter how large. I usually repeat that process each print. Hope this helps! Alternatively there are oiler capsules on thingiverse which will do it for you.
Im currently using this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:583800
I inserted a thin piece of 2mm tubing at the top (where the guide hole is) that extends about an inch into the printer this is to keep the filament from catching on the edges. The rear lid needs to be adjusted/moved to accomodate the edge of the holder. this is a remix of a shorter version that another user posted.
Well aware, but thanks :)
Once I go the route of repetier firmware, I'll have XYZWare wiped from my machine and a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint will be driving the Da Vinci.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Accessories-Automatic-Leveling-Pressure-Auto-Leveling/dp/B075FDFYC3/
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Here it is, the ctrlV 3d printer test. Overall, it did really well im my noob opinion, but has some Z axis wobble. Some settings tweaks will help i'm sure maybe some hardware tweaks, but really I have no idea. I'm a noob that just used some settings I got off youtube. :p
my first print with Repetier http://kiloohm.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/davinci.jpg
the model, if you want to print your own http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409
It's supposed to cool down the PLA in the extruder barrel. Apparently a stock DA Vinci will get too hot and the PLA will expand, clog and jam.
Here is a fan mount to fix this problem. I'm not sure how you do the wiring though to bring another fan over.
Is this the one that you are using? I was using the linked one but it puts the spool VERY close to the print bed so if it's not just right the bed will come down on it and start breaking things. It also takes a lot of force to pull the filament which was causing feed issues.
I printed this one: http://hackaday.com/2014/12/29/ingenious-filament-spool-holder-keeps-your-3d-printer-printing/, but haven't used it yet.
There is a picture of a davinci with one on top in the makes section. There also is a guide you can put in the opening in the top of the printer to make sure filament doesn't get caught in the corners of the opening. However, it probably isn't needed if you have the tubing run into the enclosure.
I do wish there was a way to use the original filament location, and even the space next to it. I wonder if we could print an alternative spool that would not be limited by the cartridge size. It does seem that some people just rewind onto the cartridges.
where's the mk10 type throat? The throat in the picture probably won't work in the same place it's threaded and too small. this might work..... https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC/ref=sxin_14_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-2-QWJvdmUgJDI1-ac_d_pm_pm_pm&cv_ct_cx=mk10+nozzle&dchild=1&keywords=mk10+nozzle&pd_rd_i=B01C3HEQZC&pd_rd_r=ec0c5801-efc6-4284-9e34-de995e8c3705&pd_rd_w=MimmT&pd_rd_wg=lfUz8&pf_rd_p=e7796530-105c-494b-a53a-3b9963e9350b&pf_rd_r=J9RFZ5NDM2V9TMZGSFDT&psc=1&qid=1629948776&sr=1-3-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0
and you can use that block and heater you bought but you have to either use the original heater and thermistor or you'll have to splice the connectors onto the new wires reds to reds and whites to whites.... they aren't polarized so it won't matter which red goes to which red and so on with the white thermistor wires. Your auto bed leveling will not work anymore because the probe screw doesn't have a place on the new block.
It was a 6mm drill bit. I stepped up from a little bigger than the stock hole for filament and just kept going bigger.
These are the hot ends I used. The davinci 1.0A thermoresistor will be too tight for the holes they provide, so I just filed them out until it fit in.
No, none that I can think of. You'd need to replace the level sensor maybe unless you wanna customize the auto level in Marlin to use the corners like the stock one does. Even for that though there are slip-on bed level sensors now that are pretty easy: https://www.amazon.com/Accessories-Automatic-Leveling-Pressure-Auto-Leveling/dp/B075FDFYC3/
Would be way cheaper to replace with a 32 bit board than this. Even if you really need WiFi an ESP-01 hooked up to a touch-screen will be cheaper. Can swap to 2209s on-board at the same time.
See something like: https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Control-Screen-Smoothieboard-Printer/dp/B089DBS62S/?th=1
I have a Davinci Pro 1.0 (3 in one?), if you really wanna give me $80 I'll pull it and send it to you and put that kit instead lol The WiFi on the Davinci never worked well/at all with previous routers of mine.
I'm pretty sure this was it. Measure yours with a caliper to make sure. 1/4" PT Male Thread 6mm Straight Pneumatic Push in Quick Fitting Connectors for PETF Tube 10Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLRG8SH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7uBDDbJQ8JKDE
I bought a Davinci 1.0 last year when it was on sale at Amazon. Flashed Repetier on it, and I've been cranking out a ton of ABS stuff with it.
To make things stick I've been using buildtak. Works really well, but make sure you re-calibrate your bed, because it will add some height. If you print to close to it, the plastic will go into the material and fuse with it, making both the buildtak and part unusable.
Best $20 bucks you can spend imho.
Personally I'm still using direct-drive, not Bowden, which is why I'm swapping out the extruder motor for a smaller one. The one I'm using is this one, and you can find details about how to set up the wiring harness on soliforum if you're not confident in rewiring it yourself just going by a multimeter and the spec sheet.
If you're just gonna do a bowden setup though, you may as well just stick with the stock motor since there's no real reason to change it- the whole idea of a bowden extruder is to keep the weight of your extruder off the moving parts of the nozzle, so you can print faster, meaning you won't need to reduce the weight of the motor itself.
I finally bit the bullet and bought some Hatchbox PLA from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MEZEFVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I knew it was going to take some modding to work on my DaVinci 1.0, but I was willing to try it out and see what would happen.
I unloaded the ABS I had loaded, and tried putting in the PLA. It actually fed fine, and extruded the same way ABS does. When I went to print though, I got the dreaded clicking since it couldn't feed. I unloaded and regrouped.
I saw a hint somewhere saying to take some Pam (or other brand of cooking spray) and coat a couple meters of filament with it in order to "prime" the nozzle. I got a paper towel and put a good spray on there, and coated maybe 10 feet of the filament.
I reloaded the filament without issue. I went to attempt a print again, and it started clicking....... but then it stopped. It was extruding perfectly, without any issues at all!
Note that I haven't modded the machine at all aside from a cartridge resetter. I'm using the modded XYZware for generating the G-Code, but the temperatures are set to the standard, which appears to be 210C and 90C.
The above is a pic in progress. I'll update once it is finished.
So... I feel this is atypical. Did I just get lucky? Is this Hatchbox PLA amazing? Can anyone weigh in? Let me know if you have any questions.
EDIT: Finished example with PLA: http://imgur.com/PqlkNrK. Still really surprised it worked so well. Pretty impressed with how PLA looks/feels too.
If you're having trouble calibrating and tearing your hair out because you can't get it right, do yourself a favour and buy this app
http://www.amazon.com/Drammas-Research-LLC-DaVinci-Calibrator/dp/B00LDBC7YC
Is only $2 and after spending hours calibrating over and over again, I caved and bought the app and I was done after two runs.
Your sanity is worth more than $2, trust me