These are going on this weekend to finish up cable management along with a power strip mounted underneath. Will let you know how it turns out but intent is to have only ethernet, power strip and maybe the desk motor power going through the snake.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J4173VD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I put together a more in depth summary in another thread about casters if you wanted to give it a read, but the high level is look for M8x15mm stems, dual locking casters if you can.
These wheels have come up as being used successfully by others, though I don't have them on my desk, I have many of the plate caster variety in my shop for several years
The mount is this: “WALI Extra Tall Single LCD Monitor Fully Adjustable Desk Mount” (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWOCCOW/)
And the portable monitor is some brand called “Newsoul” (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWGBG3P/)
I would think "workbench casters" would be a good option to permit the greatest stability when you don't need to roll around often. Mounting them on the legs may be an issue, tho.
https://www.amazon.com/SOLEJAZZ-Workbench-Retractable-Construction-Urethane/dp/B07V6X2LNB/
I bought two sets because I'm neurotic. One set would have required cutting off part of the stem but these worked perfectly and are what you see in the picture without any modifications.
I didn't want the top outlets so I got the duel bar off Amazon. Will be setting it up this weekend once the desk is delivered. I'll post pictures once it's done.
Fellowes 10-Outlet Metal Split... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HRT1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yeah, that's cool with the shelf on top. I only asked b/c you might want to cut a curve corner instead of a hard angel.
The C-Channel was a little greasy from Home Depot. I degreased it, then sprayed a primer coat, then a black coat. I also placed a thin Neoprene Rubber Strip between the C-channel and wood top as a little bumper.
There is a metal shop at work and I wanted to shorten the C-channel to 34 inches so I asked a co-worker to do it. But I could have drilled holes myself since I have a black oxide drill set. You can buy black oxide or cobalt drill bits at Home Depot. :)
That is probably better approach than my default thinking of running the power line down for each individual item on the battery backup side. One strip for battery backup items and one for standard.
I am going to give these cable holders a try as they are metal and are wider, so they should be able to hold the power strips within them.
https://www.amazon.com/Management-Organizer-Computer-15-75x4-72x4-72-Raceway/dp/B0B6HN3DTT
cable straps) and reusable cable ties) are useful for cable management.
my frame came with some cable straps but i found them sometimes too small/short. The cable strap has adhesive and screw hole but it's better to remove the adhesive and mount them using screw instead. Since you already have to screw the frame to the top, you can add cable strap to some of those screws as you screw in the top and just add more if needed.
for cable ties, you can tie cables to the 2 rails or to each other.
don't know much about power but I'd probably just use my Tripp-lite surge protector had I not got the 3-in-1.
Color me surprised but this has been working great
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F9PTX8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a one of the larger fractals, it's heavy. I put some extra straps that snap together just to be sure it stays in place.
It's not glamorous, and a pain when I want to take it out to clean it, but it works.
I have 3 of the below and they're great. I just couldn't get the position right on double or triple mount. indvidual is the way to go.
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Sorry for my late reply,
The lights I bought are the Govee Smart Bluetooth Wifi table lamp. This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098NLCGVK
They work really well, I'm happy with them. :-)
Definitely get a style that has a wide base clamp mount! We like the Amazon basics licensed version of the ergotron LX -> https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Premium-Single-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00MIBN16O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27V41CRXY31AI&keywords=amazon+basics+monitor+arm&qid=1658417666&sprefix=amazon+basics+monitor+arm%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-3
You can always just retap the holes. We’ve sceen this happen a couple times when the screw in installed on an angle and a drill/impact is used. Strange that it came that way.
If you have no luck, we can get you a new column Tuesday but retapping will take 30 seconds.
This is the set we have used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WN8BGWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECMPZGRFGQNPRGBJE8GG
I appreciate the post and the pictures! As I am moving forward in building my desk, I am trying to design the best way to mount my =9", heavy= pc. In reading above, you are using the Humanscale CPU600 with the 16" track. In reviews, I recently read, I recall some people are experiencing a lot of flex and strain on the Humanscale CPU600 mount, to the point it either sits crooked or breaks (https://www.amazon.com/Humanscale-CPU600-Adjustable-Under-desk-Holder/dp/B000V64ELO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2QZEE9DIEPXGG&keywords=Humanscale+CPU600&qid=1651169637&sprefix=humanscale+cpu600%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-2#customerReviews)
My question is, how is the CPU mount holding up and did you make any adjustments or special installation?
Again, great post!
I've been using this for the past 5 years to share my USB peripherals between my personal and work laptops.
My work laptop has it's own dock for multiple monitor out and I have an Anker USB C dock for network, audio and USB. Then I use a video splitter to go from mini display port to 3 HDMI.
My monitors have dual inputs, so when I swap over I just push the button to "find source" and it swaps over.
That’s my thought about mounting.
The dock is a Startech. This one has a lot of lot of various connections. It works great. It’s a little pricey (I got it through work so I didn’t pay) but if you don’t need this many ports, then you can probably find a small version for cheaper!
I got this one: Amazon Basics Dual Monitor Stand - Lift Engine Arm Mount, Aluminum - Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MIBN71I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6PKSJTGP63SGRX0KMS7H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Apparently it’s basically an ergotron but without a 10 year warranty? I figured I could drop $116 and if I hate it, I’ll invest in a better one in a few years.
I just added it to my desk and so far, so good!
Thanks for the box suggestion. I think that’s a good idea. I don’t mind the box off the side of the desk as it’s facing a wall and it’s better than the current disaster!
The top is pre drilled and hardware inserted. Easy to bolt the legs and frame on, just don't overtighten.
The wire snake hides wires. In my case, I only have one wire. I mounted a surge suppressor to the bottom of the desktop, just behind a leg, so I could turn everything off with one easy to reach switch.
Tripp Lite ISOBAR6Ultra Isobar 6 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Right-Angle Plug, Metal, Lifetime Limited Warranty & $50,000 Insurance White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000513US/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EG75YQAD09RZ0Q8MZA5Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Premium-Dual-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00MIBN71I
This dual monitor one is not much more than the Amazon basics single monitor one. But definitely cheaper than Ergotron. But as another said, Ergotron has a better warranty
I used these from Amazon Threaded Insert for Wood 1/4-20 x... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082Y6QBKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I will say they are cheap tho and the cheap pot metal they used started to warp as I screwed it in. Not to say they didn’t do the job and my table is holding extremely well but would deff want to one day replace them with stainless steel ones. I used apex pro and my top was a kitchen island butcher block that I bought at lowes.
I did something different... instead of marking the pilot holes with a pencil/marker... I just drilled them directly with the base on the table...making sure the table would never move in between marking the holes. To do this I used extended drill bits
wesleydrill Extra Long Brad Point... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VHYNVT7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mine was vertex pro
You’ll want to get a spacer bar.
FERSGO Under Desk Keyboard Tray Track Elevation Kit for 30" x 24" Desk - Easily Install Undermount Tray for Maximum Comfort and Better Posture Even with Desk Underside Bars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4QLW5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_SX5AXDZPCWK9YQD7MNGG
So I’m in your same boat. My old tray wouldn’t fit the new table so I’m going to attempt this and see how I like it AboveTEK Large Keyboard Tray Under Desk with Wrist Rest, 26.7"×11" Ergonomic Desk Computer Keyboard Stand with Sturdy C Clamp Mount System, Slide-Out Drawer Keyboard Mouse Holder for Office (Birch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NB9RLWD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QHPRBAPSVF0XB0E9ADR8
If you have the budget for the max go for it, but honestly the side to side wobble on this really isn’t noticeable I can send a video of it if you want. Besides the price I knew if I got the max I’d rest my feet on the crossbar and I wanted this setup to be as ergonomic as possible.
The smart paddle is a little tricky to stop right where you want it. The install is a little tedious (watch the YouTube video Putz posted). There’s nothing “smart” about it. I do really like the look of it though and I think once I get used to it I’ll like it. (My previous desk was a programmable one)
Startech server rack cable raceway 3” x 3” server rack cable raceway 3” x 3”
I love the butcher block top from desk.haus, I went to Home Depot and checked out the one there and it’s no where near the same quality. The top is insanely smooth, nice edges, it’s not super shiny almost has a matte finish to it. It’s definitely very high quality and worth the price it’s still cheaper than the walnut top which was my second choice.
Used a 1/8 drill bit and put masking tape a bit below the depth of the desk so I didn’t drill through. Probably could’ve used a larger bit but wanted to go smaller to play it safe.
Actually pretty easy to undermount a tower. My tower is a Fractal Meshify 2 (extra large case) which made it more difficult because fractal cases are wider than standard. But the actual under mount was fairly cheap and easy.
Use these brackets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4QLW5S/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I used this tower mount - the only one I could find that would fit the extra width.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F9PTX8N/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One thing I will say is that I always check the screws in the brackets. I do believe they may eventually come out over the years with wear and tear, but my tower is 20+ pounds so until I get a better top than HPL I'll just have to keep an eye on it.
I have an apex pro and I've used these brackets to mount a slider for my computer tower. Has about an inch of extra clearance, and I'm trusting my (heavy and large) computer with them. So far they've held strong, screwed into HPL top.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4QLW5S/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
FWIW, I ordered this from Amazon: Stand Up Desk Store Under Desk Cable Management Tray Black Horizontal Computer Cord Raceway and Modesty Panel (White, 39") https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B089YY5355/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WNNGFPAPCXQDN2B27WYV Not sure if that's the style you're looking for. Also, I haven't actually received it yet, so I don't have any first hand expertise with it, but it's what I'm planning on using with my Apex Pro.
I just drilled some holes with a Vertex frame to a island top that I bought from Home Depot. I got my frame centered on the top and don't forget to account for any peripherals that you plan to attach to the bottom of the desk.
I used this self centering drill bits after I setup my frame and left it as "template". Then it's less measuring to take place and can be used as a pilot hole.
I took the hole drilling a step further and used EZ Lok threaded inserts so I can bolt my frame to my top. It's not necessary but something I chose to do.
This is the block I used: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
It's raw wood, so if you go this route make sure to sand and seal it immediately (I used Rubio Monocoat) to prevent swelling and cracking with humidity changes.
Monitor arms: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q9DJ7V
Is there enough clearance to mount an under-desk tower mount? I use a Humanscale mount (https://www.amazon.com/Humanscale-CPU600-Adjustable-Under-desk-Holder/dp/B000V64ELO) with my current Uplift Desk but I find the weight on the side of the desk causes it to have tilt issues and frequently go out of level. It seems like Deskhaus would be much more robust but I'd like to keep my tower off the floor but not on top of the desk.
I believe I used some M6x15mm inserts. I bought a kit years ago of various sizes and used the largest I had enough of. As for the LEDs, it depends on your level of skill and time. I had a dewalt router with a plunge base. So I bought an edge guide. if you go this route, make sure you clamp the top firmly to something. The top moved on me and the channel is not perfect (you can see it if you zoom on the left side of the last pic), but the lip on the channel covers it mostly. The channel I used is similar to this, look around for the best price to cover your distance:
The cheapest and easiest method for LEDs is just to secure the strip to the back. Not the nicest looking if you can see the back of the desk, but easy. The other downside is you can potentially get LED spotlighting depending on the density of the strip, closeness to the wall, and so on. The 3 major benefits to the channel is aluminum functions as a heatsink, the install looks clean, and the channel includes a frosted plastic cover for diffusion.
If you have any other questions, lmk.
I use these on my Apex Pro, which I've seen recommended by others and incorporated into my build: https://www.amazon.com/Standing-Wheels-Polyurethane-Casters-Capacity/dp/B0894RKS3G
My desktop is 64"x39" butcher block and I have a bunch of audio equipment on it, which includes 2 wood 4U studio racks, 2x 35lb studio monitors, and my PC mounted on the underside. I'd estimate total load to be over 200lbs easy. I needed the flexibility to roll the desk back and forth from the wall to adjust cabling and access the window, and I've had no issue with the Apex base or the casters.
>https://www.amazon.com/Standing-Wheels-Polyurethane-Casters-Capacity/dp/B0894RKS3G
Thank you so much for sharing this! I just ordered Apex 3 leg and am trying to order caster wheels. I tried to search tips on it and ended up this thread. Do you think I can order the same size of caster wheels for Apex as recommended for Apex Pro Max? Apologies if this is a wrong place to ask this question!
THAT IS GREAT THANKS!
Do you happen to know what a Jchannel is? Is it like a holder that attaches to the bottom of the table? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZPYP7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EBM50VG6557KEX42XQXW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That makes sense
Thanks sooo much! I have to figure out which $1600 base to go with lol
I used these on my Apex: https://smile.amazon.com/Anwenk-Furniture-Threaded-Connector-Assortment/dp/B07HR63VF5/
The rampa ones look good (a little pricey). Definitely stay away from the brass ones with the slotted tabs. They break like crazy and then you have to extract the insert.
E-Z LOK - 653-6 E-Z Lok Externally Threaded Insert, 303 Stainless Steel/Metric, M6-1.0 Internal Threads, 3/8"-16 External Threads, 10.31mm Length, Made in US (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KLPW96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0RPS3TKZBGNX8B3D5JDR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes! Please keep me updated! I ended up going with this runner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066HOPM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It'll definitely be too long for my desk, so I expect to cut it and spray paint it black
side note this helps if you dont want remove these pillars (I just added this today until I can do the swap)
This is the Cable Organizer I used and here are the cable ties I used. I ended up screwing in (predrilled holes) many of the cable ties as they were more "load bearing" than others...
PreSonus Eris E3.5 BT-3.5 with these sound isolating pads
Nice! That type of cable is in my cart currently, as well as this one to skip a step
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Computer-Power-Splitter/dp/B07KKMCRGN/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1
Haven't looked at power draw yet, to determine if 18awg is enough to supply power to both. I know the power cords supplied with them are 18awg, but that's 18awg for each one. Odd though, that it says that it's got a power draw of 120v 10Amp, but that would require 16awg wire I thought... I'll have to get my kill-a-watt out and give it a look I think...
I got these arms
I can’t recommend them though. They’re cheap and well constructed, with one major flaw. The quick disconnect mount that attaches the VESA plate to the arm has too much play in it. This results in the monitor wobbling and any tilt/rotation adjustments not really being where you move it to. I would have preferred a hard mount. The rest of the mount is solid though, I especially like how the clamp tightens from inside the pole rather than under the desk, keeps a cleaner look.
I got those because the Amazon basics/ergotron ones are too short, and I needed a taller pole. In use, there’s not really an obscene amount of wobble, though it’s noticeable when typing a bit harder. A bit distracting but still usable.
Note that the USB ports are not a hub, basically just a usb extension attached to the base.
Nice, thank you. I just ordered a 30x80 HPL from u/ILikePutz. Already bought most of my cable management stuff, too. My under-desk mount is supposed to get delivered today, too (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXD9C54). Was just curious as to what others were using, thanks again.
AVLT Single 13"-43" Monitor Arm Desk Mount fits One Flat/Curved/Ultrawide Monitor Full Motion Height Swivel Tilt Rotation Adjustable Monitor Arm - Black/VESA/C-Clamp/Grommet/Cable Management https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819BLM2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N37VJA8RFDGF6B3NR55X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It isn’t rated for a 49” size, but the spec narrowly supports the weight.