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What epoxy? I’ve found the easiest way to spread the epoxy on wood is to use a plastic trowel like this https://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Plastic-Spreader-Qlt-Marshalltown/dp/B0186IOH1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=plastic+notched+spreader&qid=1668192567&sr=8-3
It basically allows you to spread it out so that the grooves will self level…. You can search youtube for some examples…
If you don’t want to do a clear coat use micro mesh pads then use a polish. These are wet sand pads that will help polish the living crap out of epoxy. Take your time and it will clear up the cloudy look.
The gloves should be OK, but there are many different epoxies out there. Nitrile gloves are cheap once you run out - go for the thicker ones.
While epoxy isn't corrosive per se, epoxy hardeners tend to be pretty nasty substances. You don't want to breathe them or get them on your skin. You can remove them from your skin with alcohol or acetone, but the problem with that is that solvents can help mobilize chemicals in the uncured epoxy - that otherwise would have difficulty getting through your skin - and let them into your body. Aside from toxicity there's also sensitization to worry about.
Newer epoxy resins are usually less toxic than in days of old, but it's still a good idea to keep them off your skin. If you'll be working in poorly ventilated areas consider getting a respirator like this with cartridges meant to filter organic compounds and other various gases.
Just plain old wrapping tape: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Performance-Packaging-1-88-Inch-HP260T/dp/B0016P08SW
You could use mold release but in my experience the resin cannot grip the tape - its surface is too smooth. I use the same tape to stick on boards that i mix 2 part resin glue or filler on. Rip the tape off and your wooden boards stay clean. I keep many rolls in the workshop.
I’ve not used a pressure pot but many of the guys we buy turning blanks from do. It doesn’t seem too challenging. I think the key is finding out what pressure to bring it up to.
You’re correct about the layers and I’ll be honest, I’m not sure how it’s done for a longer piece like 30 cm. I’d recommend looking into this book if it’s available in Europe https://www.amazon.com/Woodturning-Resin-Techniques-Projects-Turning-ebook/dp/B094WC88BD/ref=pd_aw_sim_sccl_1/141-4651930-4310854?pd_rd_w=ti6rD&content-id=amzn1.sym.95cafcb9-4ba5-4c90-bf9e-fc6b560c8cd6&pf_rd_p=95cafcb9-4ba5-4c90-bf9e-fc6b560c8cd6&pf_rd_r=N20NM0HRSN7Q6HW4CV43&pd_rd_wg=Rg8Iv&pd_rd_r=8996ed10-7b2c-4596-a117-8840c627ecec&pd_rd_i=B094WC88BD&psc=1. Hopefully you can find some good advice in there. Otherwise, if you’re on Facebook, there are some good groups to join. I recommend “Epoxy resin ideas & advice”. Good luck
So I did my shower floor and added a slip resistant additive to the sealer. anti-slip additive
epoxy tape works wonders! lil sticky after removal, but nothing that a wipe & some iso can’t get rid of!
Epoxidharz Epoxy Anti-Blasen Korrektor Spray I Epoxy Surface Bubble Remover Spray 400 ml I Entfernt effektiv Luftbläschen https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08FM9TZ61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YV55QS633Q90N9WPH65E
I didn’t make them. Got them on Amazon Palksky Lotus Tealight Candles Holders Resin Mold
This little kit seems to have what you’ll need for a DIY clear coat. It’s 100% solids epoxy so it’s definitely better than any store bought stuff
Amazing idea. I'm new to epoxy too so someone speak up if this is a bad idea but I think you could do half spheres in silicon molds then glue the two halves together. You wouldn't have to do any sanding then.
Be sure to post pics when you are done.
I have seen people recommend this before, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details.
Haven't tried it myself though.
This stuff has worked well for me: Crystal Clear Bar Table Top Epoxy Resin Coating for Wood Tabletop - 1 Gallon Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_49NVPQJWVP4FE6D32SW4
I’ve used it several times without issues. You have to always mix thoroughly and blast the air bubbles with a butane torch.
By “patchy” do you mean that it didn’t self-level? That’s a whole other problem. Especially if you’re putting new epoxy down over it.
Get some silicone mold putty. It will be easier to remove than the clay. And, you can reuse it. Let's say it ends up too big or too small, you can cut it apart, and put it back together just adding a bit more new putty to it. Super handy.
Here is what I used. These are SMALL containers. You can use something as your template or free form mold it.
...includes doodads!
I haven't settled on a winner yet, but I have used this one a couple of times lately: Clearcast 7000, also cheap, 60 bucks. No doodads.
Maybe UV resin that comes pre mixed and you use a UV light to quickly cure it but I would say it still needs supervision and won't look as impressive as the pieces made out of proper 2 part epoxy e.g. might still have bubbles or rough edges. It could still be a cool project to do together to use up some of those other supplies. Something like this would probably be ideal https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S9RRX67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_k7J1FbTSXE9PW
I use curve tip syringes for precision pouring on my smaller wood slab serving board projects to maintain the natural look of the slab while filling in the voids. Definitely recommend this to anyone who wishes to be sparing while doing pours, or to even fill in gaps that were missed like this. Only issue is I have yet to find a way to reuse them, so they can become expensive if you use them often. Here is a link to what I use for those interest.
Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Kit Crystal Clear Liquid Glass 2-4 inch 1½ GL, Self Leveling Epoxy Kit, Clear Epoxy Resin Wood Filler, Clear Pourable Casting Epoxy Resin, River Table Epoxy Resin 2:1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PXF288C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_8cgYFb4J893BJ
This is the resin I am trying. Had a coupon for $40 off so I said screw it.
I think you might be surprised how cost effective some tools are. Cheap random orbital polisher
alright so I have a plastic Macbook case I have decorated with vinyl stickers and one embroidered sticker patch.
I’m looking to seal them with epoxy so the case has a hard protective finish (mainly want to keep the stickers from peeling/getting dirty etc.). All of the stickers are vinyl.
I’m not sure if I’m going to keep the embroidered patch sticker on during pouring, do you think that would be okay to do if I poured it thick enough? It’s pretty thin.
here is a link to the case with more pictures. it’s a pretty basic snap on case, with a matte/soft touch finish (I’m fine with it becoming a glossy finish after this).
I consider myself to be fairly well versed in art and DIY projects but I’ve never worked with epoxy before.
I’ve looked up the basics and I have a general idea of what to do, I’m planning on sealing this inside and edges of the case with painters tape before pouring.
any advice or direction on this would be greatly appreciated, I don’t want to ruin all the stickers on the case and have to start over.
also how much epoxy do you think I’d need? I might buy an extra case to do a test run first.
Get a small sample of acrylic paints or a paint color you want to use. You can blend the paints like normal to the color you want then add it to the epoxy. Don't add a lot, it can affect the cure so less is better. It will also be opaque and not transparent.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MQSZVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Posting for future google-searchers.
Thanks for the responses all - in the end, this is what I went with:
- Some suggested a 3M VOC filter cartridge, so I bought those for about $20 per 2-pack from Grainger and it was the right way to go - it was a *very* strong smelling compound but with the mask, no smell. See https://www.amazon.com/3M-6001PB1-1-Organic-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B000XBKLLE
Also: P100 was recommended in some cases, but apparently is not sufficient for VOC in this quantity since it is for particulates, not vapours - so I had to make sure to go with the linked product. This was per customer support from the manufacturer. - Everyone I talked to (including responders here, thanks) recommended more or less the same temperature range, so I applied the product in the evening (70F) which seemed to work fine.
- It's been 36 hours and product is dry to walk on and some small scent remains but this is apparently to be expected.
- I'll be turning the furnaces back on at 48 hours, this evening.
Thanks, all, for all the responses - they were very helpful.
You can try blue food coloring, but don't use much. It's a water solution and epoxy and water don't mix well so use at your own risk. Second option might be wife/gf's eye shadow for a more glittery blue.
Or you can pick up an alcohol ink for cheap if you want transparent. This one is more of a light aqua blue, but you can find other ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-Aquamarine-Holtz-Alcohol-5oz/dp/B079MNFN5S
100% mica powders IMO. Dyes do not give the shimmer/swirls. I would get a variety pack on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MPD8LJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just mix some in water in a clean cup to get a feel for the colors. Start wuth the blue, add a little bit of black, and keep adding tiny bits until it looks like the color you're going for.
If you want to spice it up you can add in the "pearlescent" ones or a tiny bit of white. They give more of a secondary hue and make the swirls pop a bit more.
How is that brand? I noticed the industrial ones tend to have a yellow tint to them that's really noticeable if you do clear work with it.
Amazon has a great product for 100$/2 gallons. I used the brand that Michaels carries before and it looked very yellow like that brand you linked. Not sure if I'm just ruining my work by not tending to it right
SUPERCLEAR EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 2 Gallon Resin Kit for Casting Resin, Art Resin, Mica Powder, Alcohol Ink, Pigment Powder, River Tables, Live Edge Tables, BAR Tops, COUNTERTOP EPOXY, 1:1 Ratio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM6VH2P/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TdKVEb2GCKD8P