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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/ergodox:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/ergodox:
Karabiner Elements
TextExpander
TIPP10
Typing.com
Barrier
Notepad++
Divvy
WinCompose
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OS X Daily
The most popular reviews in /r/ergodox:
I carry mine around whenever I’m going to work somewhere for the day. I have a regular north face backpack and carry my MacBook Pro, iPad Pro, and headphones along with it. No problem at all.
One hack was to order custom cables from Zap Cables. The usb wire on my EZ has a connection in the middle so I can detach it mid-cable instead of reaching behind my computer monitor each time. So I just disconnect and take it with me, and I have a shorter version in my bag. You could have the other one at work. This way you just disconnect it right there and stick it in your bag.
Added bonus of keeping your EZ USB port from wearing out.
Here’s a pic of the cables, and here’s a link to the velvet pouch I stick the keeb in when I put it in my bag.
When I search "usb-c magnetic" without the quotes on Amazon I get this as the second product and this as the third.
Both of those are capable of USB 1/2 data rates, not USB 3.
A general rule is to look at the number of pins. Power-only adapters usually have three. Power + data for USB 1/2 requires five but is sometimes implemented with nine (first and second examples, respectively). Full USB-C functionality is reserved for the 20 pin variants, those at least attempt to support anything the port supports, though I'd imagine if you tried to run full 40G thunderbolt or USB4 through one it wouldn't go well.
Another clue can be claimed data rates. 480mbit/sec is USB 2, 5gbit/sec is USB3, 10 is USB 3.1, 20 is USB 3.2, etc.
Thanks! I actually just picked them up on amazon on a whim. I’m planning on building a Plank this fall and figured I’d use them then if they didn’t work well on the moon lander, but I’m loving it. Now i just need to find some cool 1.5u vertical ones, i think I’m going to stick with the red launch buttons. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HPLS7R8
I use this one. Cheap price but not terrible quality. Buttons are programmable. No driver (registers as generic HID), works on any OS - but does need the windows application to flash the rom.
You need to put it on a hard surface.
Only product flaw is that the buttons are squishy, but they probably all are.
Speaking generally, footswitches are less usefful than I had hoped. (And I'm even a gigging drummer...mostly because I've been forced off of stringed instruments thanks to hands revolting against me.) In part, I think, because:
- Feet are more about gross-motor movement, vs fine-motor control of fingers. The two don't seem to match up well.
- There's a "latency" with feet, it seems. Pushing out even complex drum rythyms on the feet, in time, is one thing. Matching with keyboard or mouse input is, inexplicably, something else.
So I only really use it:
- When I'm doing heavy mouse stuff (e.g. video production), mouse-click fingers are killing me, and swapping mouse hands is no longer enough.
- The rare times I game. Feet are good for holding down run/walk. And a few other things where reaction time isn't critical.
IMO €16 for the simple cloth bag is a robbery. I would look for something that is not made specially for expensive keyboards, it might be cheaper. Also, there is no real protection in this “soft case”, you may just put your keyboard in plastic bag with the same effect. Look to this case for instance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBKHYJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_E7JgAbGS7P54F I also bought stethoscope cases at amazon for my Planck for just $10, while I see “soft cases” selling at mechmarket for 30 and more.
Anyone can manufacture the PCBs and sell them on Amazon, and not all PCBs support LEDs. That said, this was the first item I found in the search.
I haven't done a board with LEDs so I can't say for sure, but the second set of "square and round" pads below the keyswitch look like they might be where an LED would go. One review mentions LEDs, so I would say signs point to yes. But you post the exact Amazon item you bought so folks can tell you. Ergodox is open source and many folks make the boards, so it's hard to know with the information you've given.
I switched to an OEM profile keycap set for my Glow. That means they aren’t all flat and the same height, but I found the home key bumps to be super useful.
I bought these, then I bought another set to double stack because they're not tall enough with the keyboard in tent mode. Not honestly impressed with the quality. Now I've moved on to full OCD territory and am building new arm/wrist rests for my desk with a jigsaw and a sheet of plywood... Link: https://www.amazon.com/Grifiti-Massdrop-Ergodox-Infinity-Keyboard/dp/B01HQXD5OG
Give it time. My WPM dropped to 22 after I got my Ergodox, now I'm doing better than ever (granted, I hadn't practiced typing before getting the Dox). I also had bad typing habits so I can recommend typing.com for overcoming these. It's really rare now that I type a letter using the wrong finger. It took me a week of daily practice to get to 44 WPM, then another couple of weeks to get back to my normal but that differs from person to person. Just don't give up.
You might also want to come up with your own layout to get comfortable on. The default one isn't really targeted towards programmers. I based mine on this one.
Hi! I had the same need as you. I bought at Amazon a tactile pen and it worked great.
HI Mark -TM Tactile Pen - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIP4ZHI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_86A2SA8EVE6YB3EN9V8J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes!
The one I got was a little too short for my preferred length, but I was able to stretch it out a bit over time.
I have an Ergodox EZ with cherry MX browns. I felt the same roughness you’re talking about.
I used Taeha Types’ tutorial https://youtu.be/qSgPKPoFo2k with krytox GPL 205. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=ppx_od_tab_ap_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I used a tiny bit of lube and I’ve been very happy with the result. The keys feel much nicer and have a more satisfying ‘thok’. It took me maybe 6 unhurried and pleasant hours to pull, open, lube, close, and reseat each switch. My switches didn’t need to be unsoldered and resoldered. I expect that would be much more of a PITA.
Hope this helps!
why not get some labels and write on them what you want?
something like this.....
Unfortunately the current chair I have is at max height in the photograph attached, only the arm rests can go up :( . I have previously tried using an old contured office cushion, similar to this one on amazon and an extra pillow, to add extra seat height, however, at best they both add 2-2.5" to the chair's height, but it's not enough to get the me in an ergonomic typing position. Plus, the current desk I have has a fixed height, and does not come with shorter legs to my knowledge.
I plan on getting a height adjustable desk in the future, like this one from secret labs, however, I am stuck with the desk unit I have until I can afford a new one, probably until black friday.
Lastly, since my Hot Dox is not compatible with the tenting kit for the ergodox ez i'm kinda stuck having to jerry-rig a tenting solution (altoids cans with rubber feet (4 on botton, 2 hidden on top)) to achieve some sort of tenting. I could go on a tangent into all kinds of soultions I'm trying to brainstorm to replace my current tenting solution, but that's a discussion for another time.
If possible, do you know anything that is within my grasp that I can do to get rid of my current typing posture issue and pain(i.e any new or used ergonmic chairs under $150, diy seat height adjustment, etc.). Thanks again for your help and dropping a comment.
I have two vertically stacked 49" monitors and two 27" monitors – my issue was I was scanning monitors like the front row cinema seat. Sitting back is better as I have room for microphone to hang in the center, and have room for notepads on the desk.
Other option maybe to use something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KDWXCK4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I have a similar issue just with my left wrist. Purchased one of these. Angle minimum seems to be 60 and can go to around 85 before becoming unstable.
Take your stabilizer leg off the wing side and attach to the wrist top outside of the board facing away from you for maximum stability. The thing just doesn't move now even at steep angles. I also use Linus Tech Tips desk mat, which adds some grip.
According to your link, your previous keyboard uses "OUTEMU brown" switches. Since your Ergodox is hot-swappable (unless it's an old model), you can order a pack of OUTEMU brown" switches from, like, Amazon.
I bought this one from Amazon, which looks very similar. It has been working fine on my Moonlander, though it doesn't feel any more premium than the price would indicate.
CERRXIAN 90 Degree Right Angle 3.5mm Male to Male Jack 4 Pole Extension Aux Audio Coiled Spiral Cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1P2VRG
Or, maybe a set like this would be good: https://www.amazon.com/Keycaps-Doubleshot-Profile-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B08RYVHDB8/
It comes with 168 keys for the same price as an ergodox set... So, there are extra keycaps to use for the modifier keys...
Or, maybe a set like this would be good: https://www.amazon.com/Keycaps-Doubleshot-Profile-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B08RYVHDB8/
It comes with 168 keys for the same price as an ergodox set... So, there are extra keycaps to use for the modifier keys...
So, if i buy a standard 101 key set... it should have everything for an ergodox?
One question though, if i look at ergodox keycap sets, the keys look different than a standard keycap set.
You say "red keys"...are you referring to the old ergodox, or the moonlander? Most of the ergodox i've seen (not the moonlander)...are just either white or black.
Something like this is what I was thinking though I'm not sure if the 1.5 - 2u keycaps would translate to an ergodox?
https://www.amazon.com/Keycaps-Non-Backlit-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07G9DV8YL/
I bought a used moonlander and it had a cracked thumb cluster hindge. I managed to repair it by myself with some epoxy clue:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG/
works pretty well so far.
Looks great!
I got mine from Amazon, but your straight ends are shorter.
Here's a link (non affiliate) for anyone that is not as handy and wants to purchase one cable:
Galdas Gaming Mouse Pad Forest Background Pattern XXL XL Large Mouse Pad Mat Long Extended Mousepad Desk Pad Non-Slip Rubber Mice Pads Stitched Edges Thin Pad (31.5x11.8x0.12 Inch)-Tree https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GV78VT7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3TBRX1849VYZATDJHYB4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Galdas Gaming Mouse Pad Forest Background Pattern XXL XL Large Mouse Pad Mat Long Extended Mousepad Desk Pad Non-Slip Rubber Mice Pads Stitched Edges Thin Pad (31.5x11.8x0.12 Inch)-Tree https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GV78VT7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3TBRX1849VYZATDJHYB4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used Isolate It!: Sorbothane Acoustic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GBMG14?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It was just enough (I cut it to only go under the main body, not the thumb clusters, as there was not enough clearance). Then, I placed it in the bottom half, and used scissors to press the rubber around the standoffs and cut. This made perfect little holes for them. Had to trim around some of the edges as well.
It was a little tight putting the top and bottom back together, but no issues and it made a huge improvement to sound and tying feel. Worth it imo.
Also, THERE IS A SCREW UNDER THE STICKER. took me forever to figure this out, and almost broke my case trying to get it open.
Took my about 20 mins to do the mod, and so glad I did it.
The joysticks are my Orbit Rat, like a low-budget, driver-free spacemouse for art and CAD software.
I don't have a good underneath photo. Light's bad. But they're just a pair of these VESA mounts clamped directly to the chair's frame.
This is the link for the shortest one. It's a relegendable keycap, but I removed the top cover to further reduce its height.
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https://www.amazon.com/X-keys-Keycap-Cherry-Compatible-Transparent/dp/B00FYO8EDC
Just one set. Anime Keycaps 108 PBT Dye Sublimation OEM Profile Japanese Anime Keycap for Cherry Mx Gateron Kailh Switch Mechanical Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DV1KFCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X79AQVYRH5PVP4F1CW82?psc=1
I use these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761TSWF3/
1.5mm thick, stacked two thick, are perfect for the stock keycaps and Gateron clear switches. (IIRC they also worker for stock cherry brown switches.)
About three keys would register inconsistently, so i took the two 1.5mm o rings out and put one 2mm o ring in.
That's good. If most keys work but a small % don't, that means you're minimizing the travel as much as possible. Just address those problem keys. Another potential problem is 'bounce', where multiple rapid fires register for a single press.
But those problems show themselves quickly and it all works out well.
There are probably better KVM switches out there but this hub does the job for me. Cateck USB 3.0 Aluminum Sharing Switch Selector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TV34NSD
For video I just switch between inputs on my monitor. It does this really quickly when I sleep or shutdown either machine.
I use this one. It may be overkill for you though. If you don’t need dual monitor support or even usb 3.0, they have a 4 port single monitor, usb 2.0 for around $60 I think.
Low profile switches compatible with Moonlander -> OUTEMU Low Profile Switches
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099WYS17H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I have "computer elbow" (a relative of Tennis Elbow) and found a few things by trial and error:
- The simple arm braces that are worn just below the elbow are just the trick for pain and don't ruin flexibility or lock you into wierd positions. Seems counter-intuitive based on where the pain comes from, but they worked for me. I used the Vive brand elbow brace at first, but I discovered the pad shape on their knee brace (worn as an elbow brace) worked even better.
- Split keyboards, even the kind that are a single keyboard that roatate the two halves, are an improvement.
- True split keyboards (two separate units) can be better so you can adjust their distance apart and rotation. Though some fixed-split keyboards like the Maltron are just as comfy or at least an excellent compromise.
- Tenting (tilting the halves up on the side facing the center) are an improvement. How much depends on you.
- Don't type with your wrists on the *palm* rests (they aren't wrist rests!); float your hands. This one is tough to change for some of us. ;-p
- Your pointing device has a huge impact. Some like trackballs, some like trackpads, thumball mice, some raised, some tilted, some in the center, vertical mice…and some like me still do better with a normal mouse (mine is an MMO gaming mouse, so it has a nice ergonomic tilt to it).
Hermano! Grabbed it cheap on Amazon
Coiled Stereo Audio Cable, Haokiang 90 Degree Right Angle 3.5mm Male to Male Jack 4 Pole TRRS Extension Aux Audio Coiled Spiral Cable(TRRS M/M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFW8YZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7HX44V15BZEWX2MZ4K6G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don’t know which OS you happen to be using, but if you’re on a Mac, you can get the pound sign with Option+3. And if you can map a certain key to Option+3, pressing that key will give you a pound sign.
Just adding to this because it works so well with weird assortments of modifiers - TextExpander is a great little app where you can launch snippets of text and code (JavaScript, AppleScript, Shell Script) using programmed keys. Same concept as remapping keys to do a thing, just with a bit more flexibility.
Thank you for the primer! I'll take another look at it and see how it all fits into my desires and capabilities.
As far as the spellcheck code you've referenced, I already have an app at the OS layer monitoring text inputs and correcting minor spelling mistakes (TextExpander - super useful for a ton of other productivity improvements and is an amazing companion for programmable keyboards). I dug into the QMK code / libraries used in autocorrect and it looks like it's doing the same thing as TextExpander. Essentially reading text inputs and replacing known strings of misspelled words with their correct counterparts.
Unfortunately, for TextExpander and the autocorrect code snippet, it's not quite a replacement for spellchecking complex, infrequently used words. I'm a home inspector and I write out my reports on web-based forms. I run into issues when I'm trying to figure out if it is 'vapor retarder' or 'vapor redardar', 'refrigerator' or 'refridgerator', 'desilvering' or 'de-silvering'. Spellcheck on Firefox identifies misspelled words inline. I was just trying to find ways activating spelling mistake correction options using the keyboard vs. right-clicking via mouse.
I might just update my snippet libraries on TextExpander for commonly misspelled terms. Def appreciate your help, though. And check out TextExpander if you haven't already.
If you don't want to clean the board frequently, try wrapping it in cloth, like a t-shirt or something. Then you wash the cloth and have a clean board underneath. Personally, I've cut apart old and torn shirts, which works really well.
As for the rubber feet, I got two of these which work really well together with the moonlander and allow for various positions. If the board lies flat, you are causing back and shoulder pain long term. So I recommend you to tilt the board as close to vertical as is comfortable.
Just found it on Amazon by keywords like "desk arm rests" or something. This is the exact model on Japanese Amazon (that's where I bought them). This is a similar thing on American Amazon.
So have you used a git repository in a programming context before?
A “fork” is a copy of an existing repository that you have full administrative permissions for. It’s not 100% necessary, as you can achieve a similar effect with a “branch” on the same repo, but it can make working on an open source project a tad easier.
If you want to make things easier on yourself, I suggest looking into WinCompose instead.
It lets you customize keyboard shortcuts to output strings of Unicode characters. You could then use Oryx and Wally to do all the mapping and flashing, but assigning keys that you’d never use for anything else. WinCompose lets you set a specific “compose” key that it watches for, which you could assign to F24 or something.
If you were on a Mac, I’d recommend Karabiner for that in a heartbeat.
And according to this Stack Overflow thread, it looks like Interception Tools may have similar capabilities to Karabiner. Perhaps that may be worth a look?
I don’t know how to do this with QMK, but if you happen to use macOS, you can do this with Karabiner.
(And I’m a big fan of Karabiner, so if you were to give that a try and if you might have any questions, feel free to ask whatever you’d like—I’d be happy to chime in.)
I 100% agree about the unpleasant sound. It's almost got a weird pinging to it. Something that helped mitigate that was cutting some foam and filling as much of the inside of the case as possible.
I did a pretty lazy, imprecise job and it still helped make things more dampened. This was pretty critical for my girlfriend to allow me to use the thing while she was on meetings in our shared office.
It shorted so it's dead now.. could smell the burnt circuit. Wasn't sure about getting a replacement as support said they wouldn't replace it a second time if the same issue happened, and then I should use a powered hub. This is one they knew off but the reviews didn't instill much confidence :(
Don't let it get to that point of encrusted grime on the keycaps. Once a couple days I disconnect the keyboard and use a lens brush (example) and dust everywhere (without removing the keycaps). Then I wipe everything with baby wipes and before that dries I wipe everything with a microfibre cloth. Maintaining my keyboards spotless this way for a couple years now this way.
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If there's lots of nasty stuff just remove the keycaps and wash them with warm soapy water. Dry them well. Use a car hoover to hoover up whatever is between the switches. Use a lens brush across the switches. Microfibre cloth to wrap it up. Then use the method in the first paragraph every few days as necessary.
You could also consider a trackball and place it between the halves. Rotating your shoulder internally, towards the middle of your keyboards, is likely less stressful. Rotating your shoulder/arm externally, as you are now, is probably a more unnatural/strenuous movement for your shoulder/arm.
That said, I tried this switch and did not enjoy it. I just try to be conscious of my posture now when I use the mouse. Instead of just pivoting at my elbow/forearm to grab the mouse, I move my whole arm out, keeping my wrist/forearm at about the same angle (relative to the edge of my desk) it was while using the keyboard.
Also, wristpads make a pretty big difference. I use these: https://smile.amazon.com/Grifiti-Massdrop-Ergodox-Infinity-Keyboard/dp/B01HQXD5OG?sa-no-redirect=1
I had these Weather Stripping Foam Laying around from a home project. It worked out really well and I definitely have more Thock in my typing now.
Sure thing, I got these and they’re holding up decently. CopperJoint Fingerless Compression Gloves – Copper-Infused Designed to Support Your Hands - Rapid Recovery and Pain Relief, All Lifestyles - Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D111I8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1WJ2KYV3F8524S18MTA9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ok so wrist rest unsure I can offer advice. But for the keeb and tent kit I purchased this GoPro case from Amazon, ripped out the foam and it fits perfectly. Caveat, the tent kit has to be removed in order to fit.
Other than that, works like a charm.
Then ignore the other advice that you need a "usb 3" cable - the usb3 micro format is almost certainly not what it takes (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Micro-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SPM4M).
You may just have flashed it wrong. Make sure you follow all the instructions exactly, and if it doesn't work, try "the other way." There are two ways to build/flash it - a build for each side, and a single build flashed to both sides, and they take different methods.
What are you using to build / flash it?
I’m just using the cable that came with the Moonlander. This one also worked, but the coil was too short/tight to comfortably position both sides:
https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-Right-Angle-Stereo-4-Pole-AV-1405DR/dp/B078JYVSLB
The foams you linked are way too thick. I used toolboc foam from Harbor Freight for mine and it was a VERY tight fit. Just measured, its ~2mm uncompressed and ~.75mm compressed. The way I used it was to fill any spaces not fit by wheel weights and lower height than the ridges on the bottom case, then one layer on top of all of that (more to protect from metal on metal contact with the weights and PCB).
​
the 10mm foam is far too thick
the 80 milshould work if it can compress, I would just be concerned about the metalized coating.
One of the problems I had with the moonlander was that my thumbs didn’t know where their home key was, and sometimes wound up resting on the wrong key. I also like the tactile bumps on pinky keys, like my Keyboardio M01, so I used this stuff to add tactile bumps and bars to some keys to help my thumbs and pinkies out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YL95BA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a A4 notepad form AmazonBasics (which is quite popular and cheaper in India) and its close to perfect. :)
https://www.amazon.in/AmazonBasics-Legal-Wide-Ruled-11-3/dp/B00QSR9KFU
I have the XS Max and I use the Apple camera adapter thingamajingie with my Planck and other custom keyboard (even my Ergodox EZ works). Needs the power adapter lead to be plugged in as well.
The newest iPad Pro seems to work with only a USB-C to lighting cable, probably the port supplies more power. I tried USB-C to lighting cable and it doesn't work, but the above linked adapter works without issues.
Between a tactile pen:
HI Mark -TM Tactile Pen - Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IIP4ZHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_c91cGbYW4WDP9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And https://pimpmykeyboard.com/
You should be able to accomplish what you want.
I do get stress marks on the stems. I view these caps as ablative: if they break I take one of the spares and put them on. The stems are obviously thicker although they might be tighter. At any rate, they seem to handle the box keycaps without getting loose. I replaced the thumb cluster with 1u keys. I barely noticed the difference.
I agree the stock keycaps leave something to be desired. They don't even have the soft-rough surface finish of cheap PBT keycaps that I actually like.
Sure thing! Something like this would definitely work:
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Tool-Box-Liner-Drawer/dp/B0753G2765
Another option would be Sorbathane, which is a thick rubber material that is designed for sound dampening. Here's a link for that one:
I replaced the 3.5mm chord (with a coiled one) and the problem disappeared. You need a 4 pole like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUKJVMW
What I would love is a device with this form factor, except that the plug part was configured to go to the keyboard rather than the host and where both ports were "live". (I believe this device is actualy a dumb splitter and one port only has the audio leads hooked up.)
If you want a short TRRS cable with right-angle connectors, you can find some on Amazon. I use this one, and it works perfectly.
Edit: Crap, just noticed that it’s no longer available. Perhaps the seller has a new listing for the same item. Worth looking into if it fits your need.
I carry it back and forth from work on the days I work from home. After searching for a case on Reddit, I came across a post where a user bought an Amazon Basics GoPro case: AmazonBasics Carrying Case for GoPro - Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PMMB4X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UfvqCbG3SQ6VQ.
Original Reddit post with pics: https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/ergodox/comments/810pjo/travelling_cases/
You cut out just enough foam to fit the keyboard. For me the right hand side is face up and the left hand side is face down, with a few pieces of foam to keep everything in place. The hard shell of the case protects the keyboard very well and makes it easy to put in a bag or backpack.
For the wires, I bought a second TRRS and USB cable from Monoprice for less than $10, I think. The original wires are setup at home and I use the monoprice wires at work.
Hey there. The cables are the stock 1 meter cables which came with the kit. The Kono.store site sells replacement ones if needed. I used braided expandable cable sleeving that I bought from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07121GN82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-NA3CbA0R98JN ) to sleeve the cables. I used heat shrink sleeving to hold everything in place and give it clean ends. I used a heat gun and coiling technique the add the coil to the cable.
Let me know if you need any help.
Found the first one on US amazon! Took a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Aproca-Logitech-Wireless-Illuminated-Keyboard/dp/B07Q2FL4Z8
>ONECAP on amazon
I've been looking for ones that are red where yours are light and black where yours are dark.. like this:
ONECAP DIY Keycap Black&Red Personalise Keycap Cherry PBT Dye-Sublimated 172 Keycaps Cherry Factory Height for Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (Black&Red)
https://www.amazon.com/ONECAP-Personalise-Dye-Sublimated-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07LFXBM2L
... but for the ergodox keyboard. My whole rig and setup are black/red theme. Not much luck yet but I think some places do custom if you pay more idk.
My wife and I both share the same Mac. My wife is not a touch typist and struggles to type on my Ergodox. I keep a Drop ALT keyboard nearby, and we swap keyboards. I bought a magnetic USB cable (this one) to make unplugging and plugging easier. The magnetic USB cable doesn't have a mini USB adapter, so I also needed a USB C to mini USB adapter (this one) for the Ergodox.
I think you've misunderstood a bit, only the left side can be used on its own, like the right side of an Ergodox EZ can be used on its own by disconnecting the cable between the halves. They've made this change to simplify the use of the left side as a small gaming keyboard (like e.g. the Razer Tartarus), since you often only use the left part of the keyboard while gaming (with the right hand on the mouse).
The right side can have its uses on its own as well, but it's probably a lot less common than the left since most people use their mouse with the right hand.
Unfortunately, that won't give you full coverage. However, you may be able to get blanks from SP/PMK to fill out the rest of the board.
What are "switch washers"? Do you have a link?
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[edit]
Do you mean something like these things?
Fair enough. �� You can buy them premade but without the ability to resize until the fit is perfect. This is a commercial version of what I made.
I bought these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Grifiti-Massdrop-Ergodox-Infinity-Keyboard/dp/B01HQXD5OG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=graffiti+ergodox&qid=1552076454&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0
The materials are good but I don't feel them too comfortable, the surface is too hard for me. I am looking for an alternative for my next keyboard.
I got this little gem https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZR13G4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which works WONDERFULLY for any system that has USB-C on the right hand side (or if you use your computer with an external monitor and want the computer to your right). Otherwise the longer one posted by oxheart might be a better option if you have any slightly older systems that only have USB-C on the left hand side (I have a couple so I'll be picking one of those up shortly).
amazon.
if i was going to move the keyboard twice every day:
for TRRS i would use a 90 degree adapter paired with a cable
for usb you can get the same types of adapters and cables, just depends on what you want to do, but i would suggest not wearing out the connectors on your device.
I have tried many - and this one works for everyone. The Ergodox Infinity is quite picky with the interconnect cable. It needs to have usb 3.0 transfer speeds - which many charging cables do not.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186E9PTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I really like this one. Good quality too.
I got the measurements from a kind fellow on /r/mk already, thanks though! Now I just gotta find somewhere to source foam pads kind of like these: https://www.amazon.ca/Notebook-Silicone-Reposition-Travelling-MacBooks/dp/B00CMJ1S8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483469476&sr=8-1&keywords=macbook+wrist+rest
Not sure I want to pay $17 for some foam and adhesive. If I can source it from AliExpress, that'd be awesome.