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Get 22 awg non insulated stranded wire. Getting the right color is a good idea.
Like IFix said. 3mm size screws. [Amazon link] They're called M3 x 8mm if you ever need to search for them.
M3 x 10mm for the screws used to set intonation. (Saddle screws.)
Something to know about FR and screws, especially if it's not an actual FR. The thread cuts can be rough sometimes. So, it's not uncommon to have to give them a little encouragement. Just go slow. Bad cuts may be the reason actual Floyd screws didn't work.
If it's also missing the string clamp blocks for the bridge, you can get those from AllParts. Or if you want to pay three times as much, Stew Mac.
Just say no to big bulky solder guns. Those are for commercial wiring jobs in buildings, not for delicate things like guitar wiring. For the same money (or less) you can pick up a nice Hakko FX888D on Amazon, or for less you can get this decent little xtronic, or one of those neat little knockoff Hakko T12 units
Yes, that doesn't really surprise me, as we see this a lot. I suggest snugging that hex nut that secures the jack, with your fingers, each time you play (difficult with a Strat type jack). Or use the appropriate Loc Tite product.
I use a wave type lockwasher, but they are hard to find in the appropriate size and thickness (the link below is an example of a wave washer, and is not neccessarily the correct size for a guitar jack):
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Locking-Washers-Assortment-80pcsM10/dp/B07PDDBRCQ
Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002908DX0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You don't need to connect the ends to each other. You can set it up so it creates a barrier that makes it much easier to keep the dog away. Folds up and fits in a closet/storage space easily.
Basically anything will work - I've used the twisted-pair wires out of an Ethernet/CAT5 cable in a pinch before and it was fine (no extra noise, no change in tone).
These days, I use 22AWG pushback pre-tinned wire for all my guitar-wiring jobs.
It sounds like you have some cheaper, and safer options than the one I'm going to mention. I worked in an Optical Lab, and they use permanent marking pens on lenses during production. To remove that permanent marker ink, they use the product linked below (which works very well):
https://www.amazon.com/All-Off-Marking-Remover-OptiSource/dp/B07GQ75N4J/ref=pd_lpo_2?
But I have no idea how safe it is for nitro finishes. I just mention it in case none of the other techniques mentioned here work, and you get desperate (maybe testing it on the back of the headstock first?)
I like to use automotive quick detailing spray and a clean microfiber towel on everything but the strings. Don’t use abrasives or caustics.
Any brand detailer will do. Meguairs makes a nice one.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A3332-Quik-Detailer-Mist/dp/B0009IQXAE
Use contact cleaner to clean it out; D-Oxit D5 is a classic suggestion, but I use WD-40's offering.
You will need a radius gauge to set the string radius to match the neck radius..
It is very common for the hex nut on the output jack to become loose. The jack has a lot of activity going on, between plugging and unplugging the cable, and the stress put on the jack while the cable is plugged into it.
Damaged wires at the output jack it probably the number one reason that we see post that say "My guitar doesn't produce signal from the strings any more--it just makes a buzzing noise?!?"
So keeping the nut secure on the output jack is important. What I use is kind of difficult to find--it's called a "wave washer":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154599500505?
I've never seen them sold by guitar parts sellers, and it's difficult to find just the correct size in a bricks and motor hardware store. I've never ordered them online, as I did buy a lifetime supply at an old hardware store that is now closed.
I don't know what the magic is with these wave washers, but I've never had a jack nut come loose with them. Another option is the Lock Tite (blue), threadlocker product:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
Some may ask, "why not just use a star-type lock washer?", but I've never had one preform anywhere near as well as a wave washer.
This is a trs jack, you probably want a simple guitar jack
If you have a stew Mac membership, go with the Kluson supreme or deluxe vintage style six in line locking tuners. I have them in my strat and they’re really smooth. They’re $77.
Another good option in the $55 range- Gotoh Locking Vintage Oval Knob Tuners Nickel (6-In-A-Line) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EB124RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D2W04P2DCMBRMBHA0VPV
https://www.amazon.com/Plate-Guitar-Tuners-Tuning-12-String/dp/B0773WMX9Y
I'm seeing terms used like Six-on-plate, six-on-side, six-inline, or 6L6R.
Posted this before your comment was up.
Idk what to say. If you know how to intonate a guitar and still can’t get it in tune, the bridge has to be moved. They make roller bridges like these which allow for extra wiggle room. The fact that you have a Fender means QA probably intonated it and you’re doing something wrong.
Not really a tool. You can get a pair of little radio transmitters to use instead of a cable between your guitar and amp. One plugs into the guitar and the other into your amp.
These are the ones that I have. There are more expensive ones out there but I’m happy with them.
So this would eliminate any RF that your cable might be picking up. The cable that I used was fairly good quality but I can hear a hum when I use it. The transmitters are pretty clear.
Not pulling your amp over or tripping up is an added bonus!
Getaria Upgraded Wireless Guitar System Guitar Wireless Transmitter Receiver Rechargeable Battery Cordless Digital Guitar Wireless for Electric Guitar Bass https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07L5B64RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J1VFFNCQAG2GJPYF29G7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If this is the one you got the color code that tells you where everything goes is in the picture here: https://www.amazon.com/SAPHUE-Humbucker-Single-Coil-Sized-Electric-Guitar/dp/B09DKK227R/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=rail+single+coil&qid=1644961058&sprefix=rail+sin%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-3
"slipping", meaning the height adjustment screw is not properly threading into the bent steel saddle?
Without buying new ones, I might try swapping it out with one from the other taller saddles (B, D, A, low-E strings) to try to find one that threads-in to the G-string saddle (and hopefully that one you swap out will thread-in to the other saddle).
This one is better This one
Forgot to mention I'm in croatia so I have limited ordering options.
Simplest answer is to buy a new switch and get an inexpensive soldering iron and replace it.
If I needed to not solder to the claw, I’d just use a ring terminal (example below) and place the ring between the screw and claw.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T35GN37/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FBH3VM2AHKJV31GFW84W
Better cables and I’ve never used this for guitar because I don’t get feedback but I have some mics and my record player hooked up to this guy and it cures all him
Compact Mini Hum Eliminator Box -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BARTW3I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You'll need to take off the strings and remove the screws around the edge of the pickguard to get at the guts beneath the pickguard - there should be either a spring or a piece of rubber tubing flopping around in there - you'll see how it should be used with the other pickup adjustment screws.
Speaking of adjustment screws...I suspect the one adjustment screw is completely missing and will need to be replaced, which will be cheap and easy to do yourself.
A new bridge is actually pretty cheap. I personally would replace it. $20 on Amazon for a very similar bridge(ALLPARTS GB-0850-0RF https://www.amazon.com/ALLPARTS-GB-0850-0RF-Rosewood-Acoustic-Bridge/dp/B004MNB884). Scrape the footprint clean (with a burred razor blade) of any clearcoat that may be near the edges/corners , and I can teach you how to make a bridge clamp for very cheap that works great. Pretty easy job really.
The bridge plate is fastened to a piece of metal, usually brass, aluminum, or steel, which is threaded to receive the whammy bar. It also has a series of holes drilled into the bottom where the trem springs hook in to provide tension against the strings. The link below shows the block with the threaded holes for the whammy bar and three screws on top, six holes that go through the block for the strings, and five holes for the trem springs.
Fender Pure Vintage Stratocaster Tremolo Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3XGAX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9Z3XGS0D6XHKBTTMTVW9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sand the whole guitar body with the 1500, then run through a three stage car polishing compound set. One helluva mirror shine awaits.
Something like this should do it.
Most of that will clean up pretty easily.
Zep All Purpose Cleaner is good for the plastics. It's really powerful stuff, but won't harm it. Though, you're going to need to replace that pickguard. Cheap, on Reverb.
You'll want to get a can of electronics cleaner for the pots, jacks, and switch.
As for tools, you'll need a toothbrush, some Q-tips, and those interdental brushes are really good for tight spots.
Regardless of cost, (which won't be that much difference,) the benefit of rehabbing instead of replacing is the learning. I started taking guitars apart in the '70s, when there wasn't any Internet, and few books. Most of it was trial and error; just figuring it out on my own.
But, it's saved me thousands of dollars, and I've Teched. some of the biggest players in the business.
25$, and they look to be small enough to deal with the og tuners' odd tilt.
I've used these on a few custom builds, and they haven't disappointed me yet.
Tuning peg, Amazon or reverb
Edit: here you go TIMESETL 6 Pieces Guitar Machine Heads Knobs Guitar String Tuning Pegs Machine Head Tuners for Electric or Acoustic Guitar (3 Left + 3 Right) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPDHXKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K99PYDNCB82RR9DH4CE9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Realize you’re not in the States, but you can probably find this in Europe.
Jim Dunlop Body & Fingerboard Cleaning Kit (6503) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VZ4HRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6HX65HYMGXK8G35ERYJ2
I use a microfiber cloth and do this cleaning when I change strings. If you’ve got super grimey frets a toothbrush and very mild household cleaner works well. I like to add automotive polishes and waxes to the glossy bodies as well, on occasion.
From your other comments it sounded like your other guitars have humbuckers... those pickups would significantly reduce noise.... depending on where it's coming from, and where it's affecting your signal chain. Here, though, I'm not convinced that would make a difference, its just food for thought.
So if you removed the pickguard and serviced the underside of the pots with a fluid, you may have made contact inadvertently between the pots and the metal shielding under the pickup cover. If that's the case, the grounded signal with electrical noise may be interfering with the pots operation. My recommendation is to remove the pots, thoroughly wipe down both the shielding and pot wires with a lightly damp towel (or rubbing alcohol wipes) to remove any of your cleaner fluid, let it dry, and replace the pots... see if that works.
Also, for future reference, scratchy pots often come from worn soldering connections, so resoldering them would be advisable. Thats easy enough, just watch a few YouTube tutorials.
When you had the pickguard off you may have also loosened or disconnected the ground wire from the pickup cover (or back of the pot) that connects to the inside of the chamber. Check that. And definitely shield the entire cavity and pickguard, being sure to ground it.
I wouldn't do it. You want to aim for Grade 0000 (Super Fine). I'm googling the terminology of steel wools and it goes like this:
0 - Fine
00 - Very Fine
000 - Extra Fine
0000 - Super Fine.
This one's description shows it's Fine, Medium, and Coarse, so it looks like it's Grade 0. Personally I wouldn't risk it.
https://www.amazon.com/Homax-Products-Finish-Package-TV713206/dp/B078JWWCBZ
This is what I use and it works great. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes, it's pretty common and cheap.
Typically I don't like to buy something I'll only likely ever use once, but I should probably make an exception in this case.
How does something like this look? Apparently it's a cheap chinese piece of crap, but for my purposes it looks like it should be deep enough to get the job done.