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First, I am not an expert. However, mine looks almost identical to yours. I think you need a filter more like this: https://www.amazon.com/Trion-Air-Bear-266649-102-3-Pack/dp/B07VBGBLKL/ref=sr\_1\_16?dchild=1&keywords=furnace+air+filter&qid=1627496569&sr=8-16
Try sending down magnet on the end of a stick. Something like this
Don’t think you have mold but yes you should use some type of coil cleaner
Either a new wire needs run or that needs soldered/butt connection and heat shrink tape. There's also something like this that you can use with a heat gun. https://www.amazon.com/120PCS-Solder-Seal-Wire-Connectors/dp/B07S62KYSL
Wire nuts should never be in the elements, high or low voltage.
They have several kinds of flush mount air vents it’s not that big of a deal
Aria Vent Drywall Lite Frame - Air Register (4x10 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W3HLKV5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BK8X163J3BJ9MMSHN9C3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
45mf 370v round is all you need
Might wanna check dimensions but this will work
TEMCo Motor Run Capacitor RC0014-45 mfd 370 V VAC Volt 45 uf Round HVAC TEMCo AC Electric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FBRUZEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nrXSFbST3THD1
But why do you think it needs replaced?
You either told the parts desk the wrong info or it was the parts desk guy's first day on the job. You cannot use a 230 volt motor in place of a 115 volt motor. You need a single phase motor.
Any universal blower motor should work for you as long as you match up the horse power and rpm rating. Many universal blowers have a horsepower range, so make sure to match up the capacitor to the correct horsepower rating.
Here's an example of a common universal motor we carry on our trucks:
NIDEC MOTOR CORPORATION (Emerson / US Motors) 5470 3/4 Multi HP Direct Drive Fan & Blower Rescue Moto https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW26R20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlxQBb4DKHXJW
seems like the conduit was a little bit short and the weight/tension pulled it out of the flashing cone.
if it were me, I would remove the conduit and replace it with a longer piece to relieve the tension/weight and find a place to secure it so that it didn't move much to pull itself out over time.
the quick solution could be to force the flexible conduit to make a 90 degree right at the end with something like this strapped over the outside. that way, the forced 90 degree right before it goes into that flashing will help prevent it from pulling back out.
but I'm not a pro, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
Bryant/Carrier/Payne Fan Coil Filter KFAFK0312LRG - 19 3/4 x 21 1/ 2 x 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D7QOYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KZGW1H28CVW01MMN0TPJ
This is what comes in those from the factory.
They bent the allthread and hooked it over? Haha, that's hilarious.
Usually you want to use sammys or something similar, like this:
Sammys 8009925-25 Vertical Rod Anchor Super Screw with 3/8 in. Threaded Rod Fitting, 3/8 x 2-1/2'' Screw, for Wood (Pkg.=25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074ZCCBK4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3F59FNJE1SFRAPNNTN2E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It would certainly make it easier and a better/tighter connection. - Nylon Tie Tensioning Tool
Or use a couple channel locks or other tools to pull onto the tail end piece, and another to push against the head of the tie where it’s clicks. This likely won’t get you the best seal and secure connection but ya also understand not getting a tool for a one time use.
Sounds like six one way half a dozen the other. The box looks like a 12*4 dimension to me. Here's a link to a booster that should fit and help.
AC Infinity AIRTAP T4, Quiet Register Booster Fan with Thermostat Control. Heating Cooling AC Vent. Fits 4” x 12” Register Holes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8R5G1W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0FDB0W0435E16KSX68C5
Are you me? I posted basically the exact same thing here a few weeks ago and an update just a few days ago. Had the same air blowing out and the same shallow trap. I also had a weird gurgling noise coming from under the sink where the drain line connected on the floor below.
I installed an EZ Trap to get it deeper and keep water in the trap: https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-83114-113B-Trap-Brush/dp/B00BMUFSGI
This worked to keep the trap filled and stopped the gurgling noise.
When I capped the clean out (B in your picture), water would stop flowing out. I think it has something to do with the air pressure in the unit, but I’m no HVAC expert or scientist. So I had to drill a 1/4” hole in the top of the cap, turn off the unit, cap it, and restart it and now it drains fine. Obviously a little bit of air escapes the 1/4” hole but its negligible.
I’m in TX and have my pipes insulated too. Does yours not drip condensation from the outside of the drain pipes?
can you see them kinda? then flexible grabber tool
within 6 feet? hose vacuum
more than /you don't know where they are? call someone or accept airpods will be an HVAC time capsule
You can just get a regular in-line fan it’s a lot cheaper. Not sure if that would help you or not if the ductwork is falling apart it may not help you at all. If you want to put a booster fan in this is what I would get in your situation
AC Infinity RAXIAL S6, Inline Booster Duct Fan 6” with Speed Controller - Low Noise Inline HVAC Blower Can Fan for Basements, Bathrooms, Kitchens, Workshops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPC5GTX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CXE499AZKAH56F4SZBDF
Grab a garden hose and wash off the outdoor unit yourself. Don’t get too close and and use too much pressure like a pressure washer garden hose Will work. 2000 ft.² you could also be a little undersized if you don’t have at least 4 tons in your house. What’s the model number of your outdoor unit? The refrigerant leak they may not be able to find it with dye all depends where it’s at. You don’t know the rate of the leak either. If it takes four years to lose 3 1/2 pounds as a small leak it might be impossible to find. Is it a furnace? Is it easy to get to the equipment you can always measure the delta T yourself with a couple of electronics them thermometers you can get on Amazon
UEi Test Instruments PDT650 Folding Pocket Digital Thermometer,Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YXKJJW616R8N5R9HQXF4
They are all cheaply made. They are also dispoable....when they break, you replace them. The only exception is if it is still under warranty. But they don't typically break during the warranty period.
My personal preference is LG window units. They are quieter than most.
An interesting unit is the Midea U shaped unit which contains an inverter that allows the compressor to run at slower speeds and thus runs quieter. Consumer Reports likes it, but some of the reviews on Amazonare awful...but then again some reviews are awful about every product!
Directly onto the evaporator (indoor) coil. Should probably clean the coil first w/ a no-rinse evap coil cleaner. Something like this…
No Rinse Evaporator Coil Cleaner
Try to clean both sides of the A-Coil (or slab coil). Would probably spray XO a few days later on both sides. May have to treat it every year after the initial
Vancouver WA - The HVAC stores near me do not sell direct unfortunately, but Amazon can get one to me on Friday so no biggie, will this suffice?
try the Nest Thermostat with the Temperature sensors to go with it. You can put the sensors in rooms upstairs so that the thermostat also is taking them into consideration. I installed these for a family with a large home once and they were really happy with them.
What you're looking for is something called a ductulator. It's a moving chart where you can easily translate iwc to cfm. Not sure how to link from mobile but Amazon has them for cheap and there may be an online version if you look.
https://www.amazon.com/Trane-TD1-Ductulator-Sleeve-Calculator/dp/B01BUGXB7G
I work for a heating an air conditioning company and these are the ones we use and recommend. The ones you linked are probably fine-most important thing is that they get replaced regularly.
https://www.amazon.com/Aprilaire-Replacment-Filter-Purifier-Models/dp/B07NSXBNP2
Amazon has them, the prices jump between $175 and $195. One example.
P.S: The replacement is sold as a unit, the bulb and a metal cage/shroud. The metal cage/shroud has a specific metal chemistry, which works as a catalyst with the UV light hits it.
There is a new LED version RGF now sells. They market it as having a longer product life, and improved energy efficiency (I don't see how, both old and new are spec'ed with the same wattage). The LED version has a 4 year warranty on the cell life, vs. the regular bulb model having a 2 year warranty on the cell.
This honeywell is made for electric resistance heaters such as baseboards and is programmable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AUKVU4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm running an in wall heater off that thermostat in one of my bathrooms and it works quite well. I just turn the temp up when I am in that room, but I have forgotten to turn the temp back down for days at a time and have never had any issues with it.
I'm pretty confident a "pilot rod" is a thermocouple.
They are really inexpensive and easy to replace.
What you need to do is pull the cover and find the gas valve. It's likely manufactured by Honeywell. From there you can determine what you need to order.
Do you know if I could use this device to move the air from the vent to discharge out the front from under the fridge?
https://www.amazon.com/Ventilaider-Magnetic-Extender-Furniture-Registers/dp/B086TWZ97Y
I recently had to replace mine with this one from Amazon:
Honeywell Home RTH8560D 7 Day... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKPFPGG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It was super easy to install you just plug those wires into the corresponding slots you don't even need to screw them in.
Just beware - depending what type of heater you have, it is really easy to blow the fuse on the board in your heater if you replace the thermostat without cutting power to your heater via the breaker box or emergency shut-off switch if you have one.
Not a good deal. $179 shipped and I didn't even shop around. https://www.amazon.com/Taco-007E-F2-High-Efficiency-Circulator/dp/B01FKZMK2A/ref=asc_df_B01FKZMK2A?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80539344142742&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvt...
Id really recommend this book
The part is around $250
You're lucky! I've seen other draft inducers priced at $800!
If you are mechanically inclined at all, the replacement is pretty simple. It's installed front and center too...so you don't have to tear apart your furnace in the process.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm an endless tinkerer, and part of me thought that I could pull out the whole inducer unit, open the shell, and inspect where the wheel is interfering with the housing.
I get that most professionals would never do this, as time is money. But, I'm a casual with a bit of time to spare.
But yeah...they're running about $330 new or $135 used on eBay.
I believe I found the correct oval capacitor on Amazon but I'd thought I should just stop and post all three to make sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Trane-CPT00119-5-Genteq-Replacement-Capacitor/dp/B07QZYL1W1
The problem is that there isn't an accessible C terminal for you. If you have an outlet near your oil burner, then get a plug in power adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Thermostat-Competible-Versions-Honeywell/dp/B07DJ7RHS5) and follow the instructions on page 11 of the installation manual.
I'm recommending you not use a C wire adapter and use a plug in transformer instead. https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Thermostat-Competible-Versions-Honeywell/dp/B07DJ7RHS5
You need an outlet nearby the thermostat.
You can got up to a MERV 13 with Aprilaire and still have very low restriction. They sell an upgrade kit that will allow it fit in your cabinet. The static between the 11 & 13 is only .02 points differential but I wouldn’t use it on a system bigger than a 3.5 ton.
Use that cheap 3m plastic sheeting that I despise, or slightly angle a slow-moving fan at the windows to keep them warmer.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
Some things to check before replacing would be the voltage going into the motor and the ohms on the windings to make sure they aren't burned out, FYI you can get the motor yourself for cheaper than 600 if you need to replace it; this is the direct part number replacement that was updated from what I could find. https://www.amazon.com/IEC-70556329-1600-Volts-Motor/dp/B07F3H21M6
Cool. I found this one on amazon. Someone posted its dimensions which seem CLOSE to what I measured but I'm not 100% sure. Sorry to keep bothering you but do you know where I can find manuals? My google search for P2DRB12W05501A is coming up with nothing.
Wiring will be difficult, there is no basement, this is on the 1st floor and no access from above either (2nd flr) but I am sure a creative person with experience in electrical/hvac installation might be able to come up with a solution. I was thinking I could tie cable to existing and just pull it but that might be a problem if it's not just 1 wire, if things are tapped, possible they are being that it's a pretty old house, you can see wires are old too.
Is this the right one: https://smile.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH6220U2000-Programmable-Thermostat-Conventional/dp/B01M6A1GR5
I couldn't find TH4110 on sale anywhere anymore.
That's an EZ trap. They make a brush on a flexible rod. https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-83406-Transparent-Flexible-Cleaning/dp/B072Q36VHX/ref=asc_df_B072Q36VHX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198096371923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8006547689059457608&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hv...
You need a C wire adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP (check home depot if you want it today).
looking at your Nest base, i believe you've had it for a while now. the internal battery has worn down so much that the unit has to constantly charge to stay powered. since you don't have a C wire, it is power stealing and using the Y wire for a common wire. when power is sent down the Y wire (intentionally or unintentionally), the AC will try to run. when the battery was new, it only had to charge for short periods of time so you would have never noticed.
Get an Amrad:
It will last the life of the furnace.
If you have a 24-hour walmart or a good hardware store nearby, they will usually carry the "Hot Shot" and also a couple of different bottles from Power Service.
Diesel Fuel Supplement/Winterizer (white bottle) is a preventive treatment, similar to Hot Shot's Secret Diesel Winter Anti-Gel
Diesel 9-1-1 (the red bottle) is for when it has already stopped flowing
If you live in an area subject to cold snaps, keeping a bottle of the red stuff on hand is a worthwhile prep.
and if you buy the correct screen there is a small notch in the outer casing that holds the screen so condensate can leak out and not freeze up
I wouldn't mess with that. Your best bet is to run a new at least 18/5 thermostat wire bundle. Use 2 wires to replace the existing 2 wires. Then, use another 2 wires to connect an external power supply (https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Thermostat-Competible-Versions-Honeywell/dp/B07DJ7RHS5) to power the ecobee. The only requirement is that you have a a power outlet near the boiler.
Put a condensate neutralizer on it and you'll be fine, some appliances like tankless water heater have them built in but furnaces usually need one added on.
Ah.. Thanks for the tip. So I see from the Product Data sheet that there is Sensible Btu. Which one is the Latent Btu? CFM at Sea level? Or is it assume that the CFM is at sea level?
​
If the booster fan (with the ducting) pulls more than the original fan, you're good.
A pressure switch won't help though. Water heater will start up, creating positive pressure. Pressure switch will trip the booster fan. Booster fan is pulling more air than the water heater puts out, so there's no more pressure. Pressure switch turns off. So you'll have the fan constantly cycling on and off.
I think 400 CFM might be oversized, as I don't think even with those ducts it will get the actual airflow down anywhere near 100-150 CFM.
You might use an adjustable booster like this thing. Then you can tweak it so you're not moving too much air. However the blower will have to exceed the airflow of the water heater's built in fan if you want to prevent condensation.
Your best bet would be the sort of switch used for a hydronic overhead air heater- a temperature control. Strap the sensor to one of the cold refrigerant pipes or the radiator itself. Set it to come on when the temp is below say 45F. (obviously if it gets cold in the room, this may not work great).
So, something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Senville-SENL-24CD-24000-Split-Conditioner/dp/B00UV3LH4Y
I'm certain that the provisions I have installed is for something identical to the above links.
I'm pretty sure 👆 is the prevalent type of ac units installed in my country. If I understand correctly some also have a heat pump while other mini splits do not? Or all mini splits like above are also heat pumps?
Look into a register cover with a built in fan to increase pressure/airflow, I'll put a link below. I almost bought one but our home builder agreed to send an HVAC company to evaluate and they were able to remove two 90 degree turns in the basement which alleviated air flow to our newborn's room.
Lol....ok I'm so glad I double checked. So I should use high temp silicone on this area... https://imgur.com/XGEtVFG
I already bought this on amazon when I ordered the motor replacement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
The one you recommended for me is $90 Canadian 🇨🇦. How bout this one https://www.amazon.ca/ELECTECK-Thermostat-Non-Programmable-Compatible-Electrical/dp/B07ZVVB1QT/ref=asc_df_B07ZVVB1QT/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=360240583603&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6159107230798977309&hvpone=&... If you still recommend the $90 one , I’ll get it .
The nest needs 24vac to power up on the R and C terminals, then connects the R terminal to the other terminals when it calls for something, Y for cooling, W for heat, etc...
Here's what I would do: You'll need a 24v transformer and two relays. Connect the transformer input to the 120v that your wiring diagram shows on terminals 1 and 2, and the output to R and C on your Nest. Connect W or W1 on your nest to one of the relay's white/blue wires, and white/yellow to C (you can do this at the boiler with a wirenut), then connect yellow and orange where it shows "spst thermostats" on your wiring diagram. Adding the relay will allow you to use 24vac to switch 24vdc.
I had a whistling noise from my A/C, but the tech couldn't hear it well. Finally I downloaded a free app to show him the sound. It really helped resolve the situation once he could see the problem for himself.
This is the app I used, iirc: Sound Analyzer at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dom.audioanalyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US
- they make resistive panels that I think don't require much clearance.
- heated blanket while you're sleeping and a regular space heater when you're awake and can watch it
- maybe an electric radiator. should be safe against fires, if memory serves.
This unit can be purchased on Amazon for $1675. $6000 for install is unacceptable. Do not do that. The units come precharged with the correct amount of refrigerant and a toddler could install this. You do not have to have HVAC certification to install it. I just had one installed for $1000. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MSGVQZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_6Z8WFVERTDC6GV3NAZHE_3
Ever use a fin comb to straighten the fins?
You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on air balancing. Get a CFM meter from Amazon and do a vent reading between 4 vents on different sides of the house on multiple floors and then change filters and do the reading again. Simple math.
$36 bucks is all you need to spend.
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Anemometer-Thermometer-Backlight-Collection/dp/B01FTPX566/
They may have a monitoring system but thermometers may need to be read manually. If they have a monitoring system (Building or Energy Management System, BMS or EMS) it should have historical data of the temps in and out of the cooling tower. You'll want to compare those to the temps recorded at your unit. The temperature of the leaving water of the cooling tower (lower temp) should be close to the temperature entering your unit (maybe +1°F). If you're seeing much higher temps the piping needs to be investigated. I believe you're in Ottawa and shouldn't be seeing water temps above ~77°F. This makes a few assumptions but if the building has no known issues with their tower you shouldn't be seeing 82°F.
Aug 17 Weather If this is the day and time it went down, your unit shouldn't have been overheating when the outside air temp was 72°F. You should have been seeing water temps 75°F or below.
I mean you can try and fix the issue without knowing what is consuming the most energy but you are mostly taking a stab in the dark.
I would definitely recommend picking up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3PB3S3RJZ7D9N&keywords=energy+monitor&qid=1664396085&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjM0IiwicXNhIjoiMy45NCIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTMifQ%3D%3D&sprefix...
And determining exactly what is drawing the most energy. Then you can look at the energy usage for each item, and determine where you can reduce consumption the most per dollar spent.
As for determining whether your fresh air ventilator is increasing your energy usage significantly, you can try turning off and see if that reduces your bill but that is difficult to isolate since your energy usage is going to depend significantly based on the weather in a given month.
bonus - light coat of grease (link) and it will last longer. Typically I replace every 5 years for PM.
I don't use an IR temp gun for surface temperatures but rather a probe specifically designed for the job.
The IR is not very accurate and can give wild readings depending on the surface reflectivity, you can always use a flat black paint spot to show the difference between surface finishes.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Temperature-Surface/
Removing the supply register grill may improve airflow slightly. Don't expect miracles.
Since you're renting and can't do much modification, you could also try putting a fan at the bottom of the stairway and aiming it up to the second floor. That may bring a bit of cooler air up there. Something similar to this might help
https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Pro-Performance-Pivoting-Blower-Utility/dp/B077BMBR5B/
something like this for a vent blower?
So when it gets to a temp i dont like, it kicks on and helps push more cold air into the room?
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Register-Thermostat-Control/dp/B07HYJXWKL?ref_=ast_sto_dp
I was in your shoes earlier this year. I had a natural gas water heater in the garage and an electric heater at the opposite end of the house. I decided to go hybrid electric in the garage and completely remove the other one. I had to go under the house and run the hot water supply to the end of the house where the other water heater was located and also install a hot water recirculating pump https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Instant-Recirculating-Install/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1XHMWS0673C33&keywords=Watts+hot+water+recirculating&qid=1663447718&s=hi&sprefix=watts+hot+water+recirculating+%2Ctools%2C165&sr=1-... but I am super happy with this setup and we have significant energy savings monthly.
If you can, try to find an inverter driven unit. With your heat and humidity levels I would up-size from their recommendations.
We have had a brutal heatwave these past few days (105-110), and my AC unit has not been blowing out cold air, and the fan outside was not kicking on. This led me to believe it was a capacitor issue. I found out my unit has two separate capacitors. My feeling is that the POCF5A capacitor (which is smaller than the POCF50A pictured) has gone bad. I was able to "kickstart" the fan and cold air began to blow like normal. Would the following capacitor from Amazon suffice even if the +/- is not 10%:https://www.amazon.com/PowerWell-Capacitor-Condenser-Straight-Conditioner/dp/B07BKPF5VV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WG8CLHRA535V&keywords=5uf+440a&qid=1662946096&sprefix=5uf+440a%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-1 I managed to find the exact model as posted, but there does not seem to be many reviews on the seller: https://www.amazon.com/Packard-Titan-Motor-Capacitor-Pocf5a/dp/B082MQ21Z8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13HJGBWPMK10X&keywords=pocf5a&qid=1662946471&sprefix=pocf%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-2 Any help would be great!
Hey any thoughts on using one of those kits to “add a C wire” ? Example. https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Add-A-Wire-Kit/dp/B008PLWT8C
I could pull a new wire but if this works just as good I’d rather do this and be done with it in 10 mins. Thanks.
No wasn't even going to attempt to do that. He had her buy this and I know it doesn't use this. https://www.amazon.com/ZeroR%C2%AE-Refrigerant-R134a-Replacement-Recharging/dp/B0B1F2SRQX/ref=sr_1_24?crid=1GCWFCRGUUXEK&keywords=freon+134a&qid=1662484861&sprefix=freon+134a%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-24
Genteq Capacitor Round 35/5 MFD 440 Volt 97F9848 (Replaces GE Z97F9899 / 97F9899) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSFO4H6/
I’ve had good luck with these. Just be sure to note the markings before switching over… “C” is common, “H” or “HERM” is for the compressor, and “F” or “FAN” is for the fan. Sometimes one will be blank. You can use process of elimination or just follow the wires.
Unfortunately this is pretty common even on equipment just out of the warehouse. As another user mentioned, there are fin combs you can get ahold of that in your situation, will largely alleviate any issues you may experience based on what I can see in the pics.
Efficiency-wise you're probably not going to notice much of an effect if you did nothing. If you comb out the fins you should be good to go. You're more likely to get efficiency / noticeable performance reduction from bad practices on install (poor ductwork, air leaks, improperly sized system etc.)
What I'd be most concerned with when it comes to damaged fins is the potential for water blow-off. Depending on the design of the coil and other factors, that's what could be the biggest headache. Again, combing out the fins should alleviate the potential for that.
All in all what your pictures show is unfortunately average or on the left side of the bell curve when it comes to fin damage IMO. You could ask for a replacement, but in my experience there's a solid chance that what you get will have similar issues.
Source: Former product development engineer for a large, internationally known residential OEM. That should read as: This guy's a nerd who worked with this stuff in a lab setting mostly and his opinion should not be valued more than a seasoned installer or field guy, haha. Especially when it comes to the brand / product they specialize in.
get yourself a Tray or shitty bag you can destroy and not care ,for crawl spaces.
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And for a tool bag you'll want something like https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Leathercraft-1530-Electrical-Maintenance/dp/B0001ZI4KC/ref=sr\_1\_49?crid=1S8LRZ8SQ5XEZ&keywords=tool+bag&qid=1661914814&sprefix=tool+bag%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-49
this. You have to make sure you replace it every couple of months else you can get a pressure drop. If you have a 1 inch filter prefurnace, replace it with the cheap fiberglass ones. Those suck regardless and overwork the blower.
HVAC engineer here.
As someone else stated, The Res side is going to ID compressors and all other kinds of fancy things.
Many of the compressors on the Res side are Copelands (they have most of all the patents...) and they've been around forever.
This this book interesting, though. There are others, though: outdated.
I have a FRAL SC14 portable AC.
From the website that sells it:
> The SC14 is a 14000 BTU air conditioning unit that allows up to 6m of ducting (optional extra) to be fitted on both cold air and exhaust air outlets at the same time making it a unique and versatile unit.
> This means that the unit to be placed either inside or outside the area you are looking to cool or heat.
With that in mind I'm wondering if the following setup is possible...
I'd like to station the AC unit in my living room, venting hot air out the window. I'd like to pipe the cold air through a long hose (about 5 meters long) through door A into my hallway, and then through door B into my bedroom.
I understand that door B should be sealed as tightly as possible to prevent cold air escaping. Would door A need to also be sealed when in operation or does this not matter?
The "optional extra" ducting and spigot were not available so I fashioned something out of a length of hose and duct tape https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HNKYTMK. The airflow was very restricted so I supplimented that with an inline fan inside my bedroom to help the cold air come through.
I tried it out and it sort of seems to work, but I didn't want to run it for an extended period and risk destroying the AC unit in case I'm doing something stupid.
Should I replace my cheap 5M duct with insulated duct like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-aluminium-insulated-flexible-ducting-hose-silver-10m-x-102mm/90765
Thanks i really appreciate the help.
The capacitor in it currently is an Am Rad USA2221B, the replacement says 370/440. Its probably just best to repace it with the same model then?
https://www.amazon.com/Round-Universal-Capacitor-Replacement-USA2221B/dp/B00GSU4N4K
Or just roll some r19 or r30 over everything.
Yes it is normal to a certain extent. Obviously you'll never go to 0w, just as you would never go to 5kwh. It stays pretty close to the rating (10% give or take.)
You could maybe find a 120v timer/relay that fires up the higher fan speed after X amount of time. I believe when a thermostat goes to 2nd stage, the first stage stays energized which would work perfect to keep the condenser going but bad for the motor since you want it to cut the power to fan tap 3 and a separate relay fire fan speed 4.
You'll need a SPDT minimum. You'd wire the cold tap from the air handler to the common and then N/C to speed 3 of the motor. Then N/O to tap 4. Red wire 24v and stage 2 cooling would go to the input.
When the ac turns on, the 120v would flow as normal to speed tap 3. Then as the relay becomes energized (stage 2) it would flip from speed 3 to speed 4.
This is the device that would probably work.
Functional Devices RIB2401B Power Relay, 20 Amp SPDT, 24 Vac/dc/120 Vac Coil, NEMA 1 Housing https://www.amazon.com/Functional-Devices-RIB2401B-Enclosed-Relay/dp/B000LEUJU6
Thanks for your response. So I’m 99.9% certain that the bathroom uses a different circuit because when it jumped, only electronics in that one room were affected (and the portable ac that was connected to the bathroom outlet via extension cord.) You’re right that it’s an older house though.
I’m not sure how many gauges my extension cord has - it’s really old and the tag was probably removed a long time. Perhaps I’ll buy a new one.
I’ve already returned the portable ac and am thinking of possibly either trying a different one OR ordering a vertical window unit like this one. Both options are a pain in the @$$ but I’m not sure what other choice I have other than to burn to death or run my central AC all day and be hit with an astronomical electricity bill (while simultaneously adding significantly more carbon waste to the environment)…
Thanks for your response. So I’m 99.9% certain that the bathroom uses a different circuit because when it jumped, only electronics in that one room were affected (and the portable ac that was connected to the bathroom outlet via extension cord.) You’re right that it’s an older house though.
I’m not sure how many gauges my extension cord has - it’s really old and the tag was probably removed a long time. Perhaps I’ll buy a new one.
I’ve already returned the portable ac and am thinking of possibly either trying a different one OR ordering a vertical window unit like this one. Both options are a pain in the @$$ but I’m not sure what other choice I have other than to burn to death or run my central AC all day and be hit with an astronomical electricity bill (while simultaneously adding significantly more carbon waste to the environment)…
+1 on needing the model number.
For how long have you been waiting for the part ?
Also, op, I know it may not be financially possible, but getting a window AC in the meantime can be $160 well spent. I'd do that for my mom in 100 degrees weather. Of course, because of Murphy's Law, the day you order the window AC is the day the part finally arrives.
Most of the southeast-midwest is around $0.12kwh, mine is actually 9 cents, some areas are as low as 6 cents, thanks mostly to all the Kentucky coal mines and the TVA hydro-dams.
I'm retired now but have been a licensed electrician since 1986 from Florida but also got an HVAC contractor license in 1992. For the last few years I have been using an Emporia energy monitoring system which I also use to measure the output from my small 1000 watt off-grid solar array.
It makes about 50 cents a day in power and is mostly for hobby purposes, but I do have it charging a lithium battery bank & inverter that can keep both my refrigerator and freezer running for about 2 nights in a blackout.
Your problem is not the number of condensers, though that may play a small part, replacing two 9k btu condensers with one 18k btu condenser may save a little money but if you need the full output then nothing's gonna change your electric bill appreciably except for the power rate you are being charged.
As a rule with these new inverter mini-splits use 900 watts for a 9k and 1800 watts for a 18k, though in practice they are both lower than that, you can't get around physics and the law of thermodynamics.
My bedroom 9k unit only used 1053 kWh for all of 2021 [heat & cool], I typically only use AC for 5 months and heat for 2 months, the other 5 months are shoulder months and need no conditioning. However, due to the heatwave and colder winter this year I am already at 1080 kWh, but don't expect it to go too much higher as I generally don't use heat or cooling between October and December.
https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Energy-Monitor-Electricity-Conserve/dp/B08CJGPHL9?th=1
Cover the returns with filter media to keep the duct clean(ish) without completely cutting off airflow. You can make clips from a paperclip to hold them on the grille.
That's a GE Connect....a rebadged Gree Flexx. Also used as a Mr Cool Universal. Good specs and quiet.
I would have put the thermostat wire in flexible conduit like the AC wire to protect it from the sun. Maybe just wrap all of that stuff in UV protective tape like this: Shurtape LS 300 HVAC Line Set... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEO2XK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Try these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XZWRM2K
I literally have to rip them off the vent to get them off. the key is to get ones large enough to stick to the edges of the vent and not just the fins of the vent.
These are what I've been using. Supposedly they are MERV 4.
I'm replacing a bathroom exhaust fan and discovered the old fan was attached to a totally rigid sheet metal duct. It is long enough for the old fan, but does not really fit the new fan, it leaves no space to maneuver the vent cap into the new fan housing.
So I want to cut this pipe (see pictures, it is currently taped to the adapter but I realized immediately that's a bad idea), remove probably 4-5" and then attach a piece of flexible 3" aluminum foil duct, which I will tape to the fan's vent adapter, and then be able to much more easily connect that to the back of the fan (which has special little clips to hold it, but you have to position it precisely).
Question -- can I use tin snips to do this job? I am thinking of buying this one. Do I need both a left and right offset snips to do this? I don't cut sheet metal often so trying not to buy more stuff than I need.
Well, if you are really wondering, buy a cheap set of digital thermometers from amazon. Put one in the return vent directly before your air filter, and one above (or just past if a down draft unit) the AC evaporator coils (the thing the copper lines go to by your furnace). Set your temp to 70-72f at the thermostat and let it run a good couple of hours. Monitor temps before and after furnace every 20-30 minutes. Monitor how long it takes your house to cool to 70 or 72. If you can drop 4-6 degrees in house temp (make sure there is NOT a vent within 6 feet of your thermostat, if there is, shut it/block it) within 3 hours and the delta between the two thermometers is >18F (likely will be based upon your quicky test), your house is heating up due to whatever you have running in your house or shitty insulation. If the AC runs and cant meet 70-72F or delta is not >18F, you may have an issue.
If you have 1" filters, replace with the cheapest ones you can find in the store. If you have 4" filters - make sure you replaced withing a couple of months. Check all your exhaust vents, make sure they are not closed. It also helps to run your fan 15 minutes an hour or so if your thermostat has that timer function. If you are swinging you temp in the house by more than 6F or so (work/home settings), consider decreasing the upper temp a bit.
FloridaProblems. Lol.
Buy this and shoot it at your ceiling. You’ll find out immediately if you have enough insulation, if insulation has been disturbed, etc. I was shocked when I did this.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-1022D-Thermometer-Temperature-Refrigerator/dp/B01BV0YMH4
Got it, for less technical folks there are other options like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sensibo-Conditioner-Controller-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B07MTGD3D9/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=3FH8YO5D8KV5P&keywords=mini+split+cloud+controller&qid=1660673308&sprefix=mini+split+cloud+controller%2Caps%2C61&sr=8-8
Then looks like I may have to get up into that attic after all to try to find that A/C system board.
Just in case I don't have any other unused wiring running from the A/C system area, do you think I should be able to use the Nest Power Connector to connect to Y + R + C on the control board and then connect other side of the Power Connector back to Y + R to wires running to my thermostat?
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP
As per this photo (though looks like they are using furnace wire W instead of Y for cooling here but I think the idea is the same).
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71sTsWfScQS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
How do you know its the right one? I ordered the same one that I took off. The motor is in an awkward spot so its tough to see what I should have. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQJ8G8L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
If you managed to hook something up so that the condensate water can safely drain out, yes you can keep the AC operating (good job).
There are multiple ways to wire the safety switch and it depends of your exact furnace model.
The universally possible way to do it : you could wire a relay, so that the switch triggers the relay. Then, from that relay, you can shut the furnace down, AND on the coil of the relay you can add a buzzer like this (I assume your furnace control circuit is 24VAC). This way if you ever have this issue again, you will get a warning.
Don't do that. The primary drain is likely plugged. If you plug this hole it will work for a few hours/days, then it will overflow from somewhere else.
Op, what you need to do now is :
1) Unplug the main trap. Until you do that, do not turn on your AC.
2) Install a safety shut-off switch (such as this) on the hole that you are showing so that if the trap gets plugged again, it will shut-off your AC.