What are
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/lightingdesign:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/lightingdesign:
Vectorworks
Resolume Avenue
Adobe Color CC
MIDI-OX
Vimeo
Wave
f.lux
MakeUseOf
ZeroTier
DaVinci Resolve
XSplit Broadcaster
Unreal Engine
BBC iPlayer
Myspace
Reaper
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/lightingdesign:
Color Grab (color detection)
NEMA Configuration Guide
LDTools
The most popular reviews in /r/lightingdesign:
Show Networks & Control Systems was the biggest help for me. Its been awhile since I read it and it may be slightly dated but it was very well put together. I still put it on the "must read" list for our interns.
No, its generally referred to as a photovoltaic sensor and uses light to generate voltage.
In this instance, the more light enters the sensor the less output the bulb has. So as you move your hand closer, less light enters the sensor so the bulb gets brighter.
Also a candelabra is a type of bulb base (the smaller than normal ones).
Another edit: Looks like a GE 1825
Thanks! I made an app called “LightLink” that can playback my lighting commands in synchronization with certain songs on Spotify.
If you have some Nanoleaf panels and wanna try it out, here’s the link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cyclub.cyclubspotify
I uploaded the programing for this track on there for free so you can check it out if you want! It looks way cooler in person… the video just doesn’t look the same
Honestly, I’ve thrown those generic china made outdoor floodlights - COB chip, silver flat housing. You can get them on Amazon for about $60 for a 100w chip, or even less on aliexpress.
Wide angle, and you can get them in a warmer white too.
I’ve installed these exact ones, as well as smaller wattage (60w LED) ones made by UStellar. They have been fantastic!
100w version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0799GTV9R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-u8MCbH40KD9K
For those in the UK who can access iPlayer the crash is in this video at around 36:40.
It looks pretty genuine to me as she just keeps on going, and it appears the visuals are just a static image although there are weird colour shifts earlier in the set which look like a missing colour channel or something...
Just throwing this out there..... Black LED Tape + Black Channels are a thing.
This actually did happen today lol, I’m controlling the color of a resolume background through grandma2. I made a generic rgb fixture and then mapped the rgb colors to the rgb colors of the colorize effect in resolume.
I followed this guide to get things working, https://resolume.com/support/en/connect-grandma2
we didn’t change any network adapter properties, just messed with the universe and network outs in ma2 and the the receiving universe in resolume. Both computers are hardwired into the same network.
We had been trying for a long time to get this to work and finally got it with the help of a friend. The resolume background is essentially it’s only lighting fixture that I have control of, dimmer and everything
https://www.advateklights.com is a great brand you can buy controller from them then build ur own lights from Stuff like this and led tape
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4LUC6Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And control it with a variety of software such as Light jams or touch designer or processing There’s a ton of them that could work
Probably the single best reference material for this is Steve Shelley's Practical Guide to Stage Lighting. The book will walk you through everything you need to know about how to determine what kind of fixture you need and how to place it for best effect(and everything else you need to implement a design). http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/books/1100526674;jsessionid=41747C5B33E361CA837C36224E845344.prodny_store02-atgap05?ean=9780240811413
And here's a quick video tutorial on how to determine angles and coverage using our software https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2kFQrU7JSo&index=3&list=PLR0T5yaXY7g-G_xgB0qCyZYf3cXKcQdiC
Totally real. Band was called "Insulated in Pink," took me a minute, but I found the rest of the album. You'll need to scroll a bit, but they're fantastic.
Vectorworks is an entirely different program.
You can request a trial/student version here. Basically all it means is that your drafts have an "educational version" border.
So the best way to think about it is in terms of the stage and the lighting areas. Imagine a small stage, where there are three lighting zones across and three lighting zones deep, or a 3x3 grid. Normally, you want to number them 1-3 across the downstage edge, 4-6 in the middle lane, and 7-9 on the upstage lane. Whether you do left to right or right to left is dependent on personal preferences, although most common is to put 1 on the downstage left area.
Now, how does that relate to channel numbers? In an ideal world, you match numbers. So, starting with your front light, you number them 1-9, in accordance with what zone they hit. Down lights over stage would be 11-19, high sides 21-29, etc.
If you have more than 10 zones, say in a 5x3 grid, your numbering would just skip to the nearest ten. For example, fronts are 1-15, downs would then be 21-35, etc.
Moving lights, would be labeled the same. I usually try to start at 101, and move up from there. Obviously, if you have doubled or tripled up on lighting zones for conventionals, you might not be starting until the 200’s.
Specials and practicals I usually start at 900, just to keep them out of the way. And I try and keep them labeled similarly to the lighting zones.
The real key here is to try and keep the numbering consistent across the board.
Also, this is just talking about the channel numbers in soft patch in the console, not the hard patch dimmer or DMX numbers.
Steve Shelley had a good book about lighting design, which might be useful. And Richard Cadena also has a great book, although this is more aimed at electricians, and explains more of the electrical aspect of lighting.
I appreciate wanting to go the DIY approach, and it looks to me like it would technically work as far as the pieces going together.
Would I recommend it though? Probably not. The LED strips are generally not great for lighting up a whole band like that. It can be done for sure, but I'd be skeptical about making it look good.
Honestly it would be cheaper just to get off-brand par cans like these ones and control them with the DMX controller you linked. Keep in mind in either case you will need to buy DMX cables as well and likely cable extensions for the LED strips if you decide to go that route.
You might mean 'cube tap' instead of 'cub tap'. It's a small cube-like plug that allows you to make 1 Edison receptacle into 3.
I'd recommend picking up a copy of Set Lighting Technician's Handbook…), best $40 you can spend for this sort of info.
Sure thing! I found them on Amazon from Muzata. They are the “spotless” series, but you can still see some hot spots shining through. Overall really good for the price.
Muzata LED Channel with Spotless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBB1XJP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
- I've found that generic decoders from Amazon work just fine. You might find that troubleshooting generic devices to be difficult due to lack of documentation, but generally LED DMX decoders are pretty robust.
- It depends on the decoder. There are some that are multi channel decoders. This one for example can control 8 individual strips.
- As long as your power supply can match the amperage used by the sum of the amperage your devices and matches the voltage required, you can put multiple devices on one power supply. The conventional wisdom is to ensure that your power supply can do at least 10% more amperage than your devices need. Also keep in mind that if your one power supply fails, all of your devices will fail.
Light bars are nice because they are generally more versatile than LED strips. For example, the beam spread for RGB5050s (if I recall correctly) is about 5 degrees, whereas most LED bars are much washier. If you're just aiming for flash and trash, I would start with the decoders and go from there.
Hope that helps!
So during those lockdowns, I am trying to add lighting design to my skill set.
I brought the following elements:
I installed the USB driver, Sweetlight software manually created a fixture with 12 channel but I am stuck on how to actually make them communicate.
Could you please help me find what is wrong with my setup ?
just looked into it, and sadly, no you can't use midi over USB with the Obey 40. you will need a usb to midi device, this might work
learning Reaper is going to be an interesting challenge, dm me now to save my contact if you might want some help in finding a good tutorial for using midi output, I also may have a saved project file that will already have the midi output placed and ready to use with the timeline.
>Pretty sure it's 5V. They don't make 12V with individual LED control, they're usually groups of 3
These are 5V, but 12V individually addressable exists nowadays:
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Programmable-Waterproof-Raspberry/dp/B07L3QD1LF
Terribly inefficient (I think they just use a voltage divider and burn off 7v, or maybe an inefficient voltage regulator). But for one or two strips it doesn't matter. When it starts going into the multi kW range, then the extra power becomes expensive.
You’re right, it actually looks to be 60 pixels per meter after a quick look on amazon.
I’m fairly confident this is the exact string in the photo, however they’re super generic so there’s no telling without OP confirming what brand they were advertised under.
Phoenix connector (aka Euroblock) is on all pretty much all modular LED stuff in film world. You can get them in any number of pins you'll need.they are rugged and durable and secure without being a pain.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJGPFWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LwjMFbVD8CEF9
Show Networks and Control Systems
The Automated Lighting Programmer’s Handbook
These are two of the good ones for breaking down the basics and going through the whole process. Both are available on Amazon.
Honestly, the ETC Nomad setup is probably the way to go. Yes, a steeper learning curve but RTC consoles are also going to be what most students will run into in the future and learning early will give them a leg up later. Also, ETC has a ton of free training videos for the EOS family consoles and it’s the same exact software. You will just need to learn the keyboard shortcuts. You may also be able to contact your local rep or a local LD to help out with a quick training and basic setup for one or two people so they can train others.
As far as Qlab, there is a way to trigger lighting cues via Qlab through midi. You can do projections as well if that’s something you’re interested in too. It’s been a long time since I’ve set it up so I can’t help there. I would recommend looking at the Qlab 4 book. It’s an amazing resource.
QLab 4: Projects in Video, Audio, and Lighting Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZMV169/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cd5zFbF2BV44Z
Don’t under estimate the power of teaching students how to board op, or teaching a student stage manager to hit two space bars at once. The only reason we used Qlab to trigger everything is because we literally couldn’t get staff to run each console and they were on opposite sides of the booth.
There’s a pretty easy and cool way to do it if you have a google home! Just buy standard 4pin led tape of amazon and one of these (linked below) Off amazon. Probably need one WiFi thing for every 40-50ft of tape. But the you could control each area indpemently after setting up some easy commands in your google home.
Wifi led tape adapter on Amazon
Nexlux WiFi Wireless LED Smart Controller Alexa Google Home IFTTT Compatible,Working with Android,iOS System, GRB,BGR, RGB LED Strip Lights DC 12V 24V(No Power Adapter Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07116SX41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CSETEbB1XDAN1
If you have an Android phone or tablet LDTools has a beam calculator with distance, beam diameter and angle fields. Just plug in two of the values to get the third.
I have no personal experience with these. But I’m pretty sure there was a post by someone else on here the other day asking about LED replacements.
Certainly not as cheap, but would mean not needing to replace them. And can still use exisiting dimming infrastructure so not needing to upgrade that just yet.
Looks like they make replacement led bulbs that fit that kind of plug. Here is a par64. You need to figure out what size you have and find the bulb for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-500Watt-Halogen-Equivalent-Floodlight/dp/B0929CS333?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&smid=AGDWGCD4XQE31&th=1
You could do it with 12v incan but you'd need a LOT of higher amperage PSUs. Not impossible, just annoying and a resource hog. u/disc2slick is right that you probably want to do this with LED bulbs.
I specced out a show earlier this year with 50 or so 12v lamps on it, we used these bulbs, or similar, for the units. They dim surprisingly well https://www.amazon.com/OPALRAY-Voltage-Antique-Incandescent-Equivalent/dp/B07VDCDT66/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?keywords=12v+edison+bulb&qid=1670333685&sr=8-18
OP if you do that I would suggest you get a handful of different bulbs from different manufacturers and test them for smooth dimming with your decoders. In my experience not all decoders dim the same bulbs exactly the same, you need to do the legwork on finding what works best for your equipment.
They totally exist. You want to search for a "sound active strobe light" you can spend anywhere from $30 to $3000 per light. For a nice cheap "just to try it out" option these came up on Amazon for me: https://www.amazon.com/Roxant-Pulse-ULTRA-Bright-Strobe/dp/B01LVXCDKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa
Get 2 or more, and set them to slightly different sound sensitivities and strobe rates. Whenever a loud sound happens in your room, they'll go off.
Unreal has an online school that is free and extremely well put together. You can find it here: https://www.unrealengine.com/en-US/onlinelearning-courses
Took me about 2 months to get going and feel comfortable around the software.
These lights look almost exactly like some cheap lights that I can find on Amazon, except that the connectors are flipped. These are the types of lights that are made cheaply in China, and many variants that are almost exactly the same are sold all over the place under various names.
I'm guessing this is just a manufacturing error. The two connectors probably got flipped during assembly. But as you have already found out, the two connectors are wired together directly and can be used interchangeably.
Do they really rent for the same? Let’s talk about something like this ($360) vs a Robe Robin LEDWash 300 ($2,943). They’re effectively the same fixture for all intents and purposes, and I can tell you from years of experience that the cheap one is nothing to shake a stick at. Would you really not pass the savings onto your client? If not, how do you figure pricing?
The Assistant Lighting Designer's Toolkit by Anne E. McMills is a great resource
These are just "waterproof" 3 pin connectors. Typical with a lot of lighting stuff. you can get these pretty cheap on Amazon.
These are great. Since they're just simple, dumb fixtures you can stick them on a relay channel and not worry about them.
What do you think of the product I linked from amazon? Would this work as “track lighting” since it is moveable? There are other versions with a longer flexible stem.
Thanks for all the replies so far! Has been helpful to narrow down my search terms. QLC+ seems the path to go down for now as i'm very much on the hobby side of things. Found this tutorial on their website so seems like a good place to start to do something basic
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/make-first-musical-light-show-qlc/
I use these for DMX-to-WS2811 decoding, but it takes some wiring and getting some appropriate power supplies. Good option to have up your sleeve, but I bet your hope was for something a boatload easier!
Not exactly. I'm looking for single fixtures.
This is kinda what I want, but alas its not dimmable.
The amplifier that I keep being told to get is this one that says LED amplifier on the actual item BTF-LIGHTING Single Color CCT RGB RGBW LED Strip 4 Channel Signal Amplifier Controller Work with 2pin 3pin 4pin 5pin DC12V/DC24V Max 24A 5050SMD COB LED Strip Suitable for Long Distance LED Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6XVYBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KP9ZHRJH6RGNC625XAZ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve just been going off of what I’ve read and what has been told to me. I’m a beginner at all of this. Here’s the link to the amplifier BTF-LIGHTING Single Color CCT RGB RGBW LED Strip 4 Channel Signal Amplifier Controller Work with 2pin 3pin 4pin 5pin DC12V/DC24V Max 24A 5050SMD COB LED Strip Suitable for Long Distance LED Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6XVYBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KP9ZHRJH6RGNC625XAZ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
DMX in and OUT are simply connected together, it is a serial bus connection.
So you can use a decoder that has both RJ45 and XLR connectors as a turn around like this one.
But you can also buy a RJ45 to XLR turn around as well. what ever works best for your install.
You can purchase a single power supply and use a cable run to inject power at the end of each LED strip before you start the next strip; you don't need individual amplifiers. I use this one:
Okay!
Think I've got it.
Power supply to power 12v lights and dumb 60/m led RGB lights.
Does that look better?
Okay!
Think I've got it.
Power supply to power 12v lights and dumb 60/m led RGB lights.
Does that look better?
Want a super dirt cheap option? See the link below. I used it a lot when all I had were DJ lights. It has a relatively easy time code like system you can play around with. Just keep in mind it’s only $20, and you’re getting what you pay for. It tends to crash a decent amount, so I wouldn’t do any live events with it.
I wasn't aware that those existed. You mean something like this?
for a dance studio tell her to get these, she will be able to change the colors too, it will look dope when people need to record but also good lighting, it is a bit out of the price range but a solid investment https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Streaming-Broadcasting-Conference-Photography/dp/B08LD3ZHNB/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=3766981KHUE4H&keywords=neewer+led+panel+light&qid=1657659362&sprefix=newer+led+%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&am...
I use a "lightbox" illumination panel that my sister used for drawing. It's really thin (5mm), not too expensive (compared to a customized LED lite pad), and is rechargeable - which in my opinion, is preferable to batteries if it's easy enough to take down, recharge, and then put back up again.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0UUHPO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The one in the link above is smaller than your 16x24" piece of wall art but the light can be dimmed down so that the outline of the panel isn't as obvious when hung.
If you have USB-C video capability, these are actually really nice https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086VJP65W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But anything big enough will work.
Haha, about four years late. I still have laptops without native ethernet though and still haven't had any issues. All of the ones I have work natively with windows. If I'm doing something critical, I usually use the ethernet port in my USB-C dock but usually it's because I need the other ports on the dock too. I mostly use one of my cheapo TP-Link USB adapters. I bought a ton of em so I always have one or two on hand. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Foldable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B00YUU3KC6
So, for any other poor souls reading this post hoping for answers, I was able to order a multi-pack of generic tact switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LCBLB8N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and I harvested the piece from the inside of the switch with the little red button and it fit well enough to work!
I do video professionally. You’re going to have to take on some technical knowledge if you want to eliminate flicker entirely, unless you want to spend extra money, and potentially run around in circles trying to figure out why it doesn’t work.
When you’re asking for advice it’s best not to openly mock those trying you help you. It doesn’t look very good on you.
If I knew what camera you were using I might be able to point you in the right direction, but without that knowledge....
Here’s an led strip made specifically for video. It’s designed to be flicker free. Though it’s pretty expensive for what it is. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Elgato-Million-Control-Integration/dp/B08WCFCP7J/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=141KZ8GTTP1FH&keywords=elgato%2Bled%2Bstrip&qid=1654451798&sprefix=elgato%2Bled%2Bstrio%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
I bought mine from eBay but am having trouble finding them on there again. this seems to be the same exact one from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HBSBP3B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_HZNFM8Y0N2602S6JG591
Here you go
Ahh that sounds like a good idea! I'm looking for the sharpest edges possible, for ultra crisp silhouettes.
So do you reckon this would be okay: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lumitact-Rechargeable-Flashlight-Waterproof-Emergency/dp/B09CKZWMB3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=246ZPLHB5GDXN&keywords=xhp70+torch&qid=1650022366&sprefix=Xhp+70+to%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-4
If not, could you link me a recommendation please? I'd really appreciate it, I've been struggling to find the right light source for ages and fallen down a bit of an optics rabbit hole 😵
This appears to be the same product!!! Philips LED Flicker-Free A19 Light Bulb, Dimmable Warm Glow Effect, EyeComfort Technology, 800 Lumen, 2700-2200K, 8.5W=60W, E26 Base, Title 20 Certified, 8-Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08667GGJW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VD5PKPMNWPKGS8XT7CST
Here's the original listing for them. Philips LED Classic Glass Non-Dimmable A19 Light Bulb: 800-Lumen, 2700-Kelvin, 7-Watt (60-Watt Equivalent), E26 Base, Soft White, Frosted, 16-Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0747P8W5K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CEN5A8N5VKRB3MZZMCYN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would recommend the intro book first. It covers all the basics and enough to get you to a good understanding. Imo, it's more than enough for the general tech. The big book will go into much more technical detail
Introduction to Show Networking https://www.amazon.com/dp/1735763802?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I like what youre proposing. If I have a USB to DMX cable(like this ) ans then connect the DMX to the end of my GigBar2 and USB to my laptop, then load up QLC+ on my laptop, will this automatically allow me to program stuff? Or will I need a "controller" device in between?
I also love what you said about AliExpress, I'm gonna be doing some research on that
The sun has a brightness around 100K lumens (will vary greatly depending on clouds, time of day, time of year, etc). You will need the lights shining on your face to be brighter than that.
If you want something relatively cheap and pretty much guaranteed to cause permanent blindness, figure out a way to point about 8 of these at your face.
Or just do the sensible thing, save your eyes, and just hang a blackout curtain in front of the window
I bought this and clipped it to my monitor arm. Works perfect and is out of sight behind the monitor when I don't need it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GKKR9HF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Nobody has given you a straight answer so here's a light, but remember if your screen and this face-light are full brightness it's going to really strain your eyes while gaming.
A big soft LED panel like this one above your screen will be a nice big bright source to light up your face.
What everyone else is saying is that it's going to be a balance between the brightness of the Window, the Light, and your Screen. You definitely lower the window brightness with curtains or Window Tint Film.
Agreed that it's likely interference as the bars would react instantly if the signal was getting through. 2.4GHz is a highly congested band due to being license-free, so wifi, bluetooth, microwave overns, baby monitors, CCTV etc systems all clawing over one another.
Spec here https://www.amazon.co.uk/CHINLY-Wireless-Receiver-Rechargeable-Stage/dp/B07G34MBD3 states 2.4GHz
This can be a rabbit hole, that is why you really should get a lighting production company to assist.
However, I can give you a quick run down.
It all comes down to budget and time. You can either buy or rent professional or semi professional (DJ quality) gear but each led unit can comes between $200-800. Renting could cost $20-50 a day, then you need control (lighting board, DMX controller, etc)
If budget is a concern then you might want to build it yourself. You can get some LED light strips off Amazon and create something. However, there are two basic types of LED strips there, the self contained units that are controlled by an app on your smartphone and just the led strip.
I do not suggest the smartphone ones, you won’t get the control/patterns you want and without tech support it could be a nightmare.
Get the strips and a cheap dmx decoder such as this:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09DD2W7KL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F9SDQJJ0J9TFPAJY59X4
You plug the bare wires of the led strip into the green sockets on the side. This will allow you to use the 3 pin connect on the front to plug into a lighting board/dmx controller. This unit basically allows a controller to “talk” to the LED strip and tell it what to do.
However, this unit can only control one color at a time: all blue, all red, all green, etc.
So you will need to buy multiple DMX decoders to control multiple LED strips to get some patterns your client wants.
Next you need a control. This is going to be the biggest cost/problem for you in this scenario. You can you can buy software so you can control the light from your computer but you need to buy an adapter to convert that 3-pin DMX output to plug into the computer.
This gets complicated and the costs can spiral and the learn curve is high.
If you want to go the DIY route thats ok but I would get a lighting tech with a lighting board to work with to program things.
This is the product we’re using and while I’m pretty sure it’s a cheapo system, I’ve used it over longer distances before with no problems.
Oh yeah, they just bought something cheap off Amazon and I’ve used it over larger distances (through a few walls too) with no problems, so while I’m not entirely sure it’s the problem, I’m open to trying to upgrade the wireless DMX system. The one problem is budget. I think I could convince them to spend maybe $400 bucks, which is highly limiting, as I’m sure we both know. Obviously, money and price are more important to them than fixing the occasional flicker, so if I propose something wildly expensive then I run the risk of essentially locking myself out of future purchasing decisions, because I’ll “always present something super expensive” you know? Hence why I’m trying to keep it under 400.
Now, I don’t know squat about wireless DMX, aside from how to operate, setup, teardown, and configure the current system. So I have no idea what system would be reliable. Could you possibly link me a few examples of systems that would meet your standards (or come as close as humanly possible) and are maybe under that price range? So at least I know what to look for in a system.
Yep, here’s the Amazon link lol and while I’ve used the same system over larger distances with no problems, this is suspect, of course.
The main issue with other systems (and lighting in general) is of course price. They bought these systems because they wanted something cheap, and, well, you get what you pay for, but you also don’t break the bank. I think probably the highest I could persuade them to go is 400 bucks, but of course preferring to be around 200. Now I don’t know a lot about wireless DMX, being a wired guy myself, so could you maybe link a few systems that meet your standards of reliability?
Since most responses seem to be speculation, you are 100% missing one of these. Normally these fittings are the other way around (The quick release should be on the hose) but it really doesn’t matter. This should stop your leak.
Something like this guy driving something like these guys
Curious to know how you are connecting wirelessly / via what hub. I think an interesting test would be have your wired connection connect to a known working fixture, then add this new decoder after (2nd in line) and see if it works. It is very possible it is a voltage item seeing that it is coming from that USB adapter.
I'm actually doing some testing with this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVLXWD9
​
but I am using DMXIS DM1-1 for my interface, I haven't had any problems yet there.
I'd say if you can get it working a second in line or 3rd while wired after a known working fixture just daisy chained through, it may rule out that the usb to DMX cable may not work with this particular decoder.
For the purpose of testing there is no chain , just a single fixture .
External power for the decoder is 12v 1-4 amp adapters . Also have a battery powered unit , that behaves the same , from what I can tell it’s not a power issue .
This is the usb dmx adapter - Usangreen DMX Control Cable USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RGBWKT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Using Rockville wireless dmx signal T & R
my set up Is like usually under 10 fixtures .
I have tried to be diligent in all my testing too swapping everything around . No changes . My par lights all operate as excepted just not the decoders .
I am a complete noob at lights but I got these on Amazon and they’re pretty nice
SHEHDS DJ Lights LED Flat Par 7x18W 6in1 RGBWA+UV Lighting with Remote Control DMX Control Uplighting, Sound Activated Auto Run for Wedding, Party, Disco, Club, KTV, DJ Show - 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JTRGV1T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_8DCF0VWQ2Y1H3XZN8MDX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought cheaper PARs on Amazon. SHEHDS DJ Lights LED Flat Par 7x18W 6in1 RGBWA+UV. It doesn't say in the manual anywhere what the temperature is, just basic stuff and a DMX chart.
This is what I bought off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Mgorgeous-Machine-Display-Multi-angle-Control/dp/B09RG1MKKY/ref=sr_1_27?crid=2G2DW8V3TPUAV&keywords=co2+cannon&qid=1644523169&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=co2+cannon%2Cmi%2C71&sr=1-27
I also have the chauvet obey 70 dmx controller
It does work. I've used virtual box before and it worked fine. I wanted to use bootcamp but it takes up too much space that my poor little MacBook air doesn't have.
I'd say from what I've seen online, bootcamp is the best way to go about this. But things like virtual box and others work too, you just won't have the same processing power as bootcamp because your Mac will be running two OS at the same time whereas with bootcamp its only one.
Since they are just to play around with, and not for anything professional. I would just buy some cheap generic LED moving heads on amazon.
Something like this (4 pack). https://www.amazon.com/U%60King-Lights-Portable-Control-DMX-512/dp/B073B6Q5CC/
Thanks for the help. For the power supply, would it be something like this? (not necessarily that one specifically, just not sure if that's the type I'm looking for)
A male to male gender changer. https://www.amazon.com/Devinal-Coupler-Adapter-Convertor-Connector/dp/B08341JCZN/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=5+pin+xlr&qid=1643313126&sr=8-9
Or just solder one yourself, just takes a minute
It's tough to tell without knowing what you're shooting on and type of shoot but as a baseline you need to only use LEDs with a CRI of 90 or above.
I use these panel lights for casual shoots.
Bounce cards and a lot of gaff go a long way.
Yeah mowers can pull pretty good juice and people tend to use long cords. If you have a 50+ foot cord I would go at least 14 gauge, 12 gauge for 100+. Using an under gauge cord can make your mower not work as well and potentially damage it.
Southwire 25890002 2589SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord, Water Resistant Vinyl Jacket, for Commercial Use and Major Appliances, Foot, Yellow, 100 Feet, Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQF5/
Depending on the heads for some of our temporary events we run we just set one to a function and cable the rest in and they follow suit.
We use the ones I'll link below and we've had them about 4/5 years, they've not been looked after well, often used in damp environments for extended periods, not properly packaged when transported between events and they're still going strong.
When we don't have time to setup a proper rig, or we're facing technical difficulties we just set them all to the same dmx channel then change the first one in series to be on a preset and the rest follow suit... it does get a bit repetitive after a while if you pay attention to stuff like that but if it's a bar it's probably okay. The types of events we've done this for people really aren't paying much attention to the lighting heh.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BETOPPER-Professional-Lighting-Restaurant-Wedding/dp/B074FFJ165/
When we use them properly we hook them up to lightjams with a sound card input from the decks and beat count with various genres of music pre-programmed, we have dnb, techno, hardcore, pop, disco and so forth which works really well, but get disastrous results when the wrong grid is active!
I set up a youth room with one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Console-Controller-Editing-Program-Lighting/dp/B01C74GLNQ
There's hundreds of brands. The only difference I saw was whether they used an internal power supply with an integrated 110v cord, or like this one with a power cube. I wouldn't say it's intuitive to program scenes and chases, but once it's set up it works fine.
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As madsci mentioned, you can't bend the strips in the way you describe for a custom ring, but depending on your application, you might be able to use something like this mounted in a circle. Feel free to PM me about any of this; I'm about to use a bunch of neopixels in an upcoming project, and I've been working with embedded systems for years.
You can always try the ETC (Electronic Theatre Controls) Education Center: http://www.etcconnect.com/support.education.aspx
I believe they have youtube tutorials as well, though I imagine most of them have to do with lighting consoles, not necessarily lighting design. I think youtube is your best bet to find information on stuff like Magic Sheets (light plotting) and methods of lighting design. I would also check Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/videoschool/archive/lighting They have a lot of helpful videos that are really accessible.
For LEDs you can buy this and it’ll fix your problem: American Dj Supply Led Dummy For Use With Conventional Relays To Stop Led Effect Lights From Intermittantly Flashing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004REW1BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_15CXAWA19V8VQJEA80PB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Christmas lights are not made to dim, you need a full on/off relay for them to work right.
I got these on amazon, they work great so far
3 Channel 5A DMX512 Decoder Controller Relay Switch Kit DIY Converter DMX Dimmer Relay With Protective Shell https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111QOZXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4EHWEYM3XX8SKG0BPDT0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Only downside is no dmx out, so must be end of chain or you need a splitter
There are bunch of cheap pin-spots like this
The basic standard is the McCandless method, named after Stanley McCandless. His book is A Method of Lighting the Stage. That would be a good place to start.
My physical hardware is an ACM3200 access point, Raspi 3b, and Fadecandy pixtape controllers. I use QLC+ lighting software to drive everything. My Logical config is: QLC+ --> ArtNET--> OLA(raspi-3) --> fcserver/pxdriver --usb--> Fadecandy --> 8x64LED WS2812B
data routing config: 2013MBP --> 5Ghz--> ACM3200 --2.4Ghz(unicast)--> raspi3b --usb--> Fadecandy --WS2812b--> LED
Things I did:
- The raspi-3bs I have I turned off wifi-power mgmt and that made a big difference
- tweaked the wifi a little .. DTIM intervals and such .. but that AP is packed right now .. should get it out shortly ( show season starting ) And I can post you those settings if interested.
- the fcserver was getting backed up .. so I re-wrote the tool that pulls from ola ( can find here https://github.com/sandinak/ansible-raspi-dmx/blob/master/roles/pxdriver/files/pxdriver.py ) and took the FadeCandy out for the smaller LED sets. I think it was tied to buffer bloat type issues so the tool I wrote could handle skipping frames.
Given this is 8x256 across 2feet x 32feet of space running at ~44Hz of 10k+ DMX channel led display .. occasionally dropping a frame here isn't noticeable at all. You can also run other pix-tape controllers like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8TVMAZ this way if you have power... and on the other end of the spectrum .. i've run USB Battery based raspi zero w controllers in hand props.
not to sound dumb but if the mw output is the same, why go with a unity laser over something really cheap like this one i found on amazon
Correct, or you could wire up a custom male to male cable to come out of your old console into a port on the dmx king. The settings for each port are handled in the configuration utility from their website.
Depending on which DMXking node you’re looking at, a lot of them require power over ethernet (PoE), meaning you would need it plugged into a PoE network switch or use a PoE injector. I’ve used the below tp-link switch with great results, and you can expand with more nodes in the future.
Both the LED strip and the decoder need to be pixel-addressable. I have used this decoder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2V4WFV/ and it’s fine. The DMXKing node that u/DoomsdayDuffett posted looks great and is probably better if you are using sACN.
Try these I use them for my led bars and they seem like they would work for you as well!
Camera Hot Shoe Mount to 1/4"-20 Tripod Screw Adapter Flash Shoe Mount for DSLR Camera Rig (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018UJLIOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SZT1EP9HSS1Z361NXB5Z
No 0-10v dimming will not work with your 24v power supply, unless it has an input for the 0-10v. you want something like this.
also found this site on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/led-dimmer-remote
it is this sort of stuff that you want. If you wanna talk about APP control from your smart phone or ipod PM me.
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