What are /r/litecoinmining's favorite Products & Services?

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I say start mining ASAP. There will always be market for GPU mining. Infact, it is this market that gave litecoin its growth after ASICs took over bitcoin last year.

It's funny how litecoin.org currently states:

> One of the aims of Litecoin was to provide a mining algorithm that > could run at the same time, on the same hardware used to mine > bitcoins. With the rise of specialized ASICs for Bitcoin, Litecoin > continues to satisfy these goals.

Really, litecoin Dev should remove this statement on the main page since it is no longer a main litecoin's mission statement.

You are off by a factor of 10 (no way his power is .70 cents per kWh) will cost around $120/month. I don't understand why you guys don't just google this shit. Here is the link you lazy bums! https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=1500&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=2400&CostPerkWh=0.07

Hello there!

It is not. The fans can counter the rotational direction. The focus to exhaust the heat is more relevant. They can bring in the air on their own, but you do not want a fan directly up to them. At a distance to move air and create that wind tunnel effect of air passing through, but not up close.

Since this is going to be in a basement, I would recommend the following fan from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VPG5KR1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Of course, anything larger with more CFM is always a good idea, but these work well in basements to move overall air.

I'm not a brit, but I'm a little to the right of you and I've used Kraken successfully. It supports really cheap SEPA transfers in less than 24 hours.

That was possible 5 years ago but not anymore. You wouldn't make enought LTC to cover the cost of power, even if your power is free you won't make enough with a single GPU for it to be worth doing. Most importantly, you would earn vastly more mining something other than LTC (and optionally selling it for LTC).

If you want to mine with a GPU you can mine other coins (check whattomine.com ) , It will take you about a year to break even on the cost of your GPU unless you get super lucky with both a good price on the GPU and good timing when mining a particular coin goes up in profitability. https://www.nicehash.com is another good resource to check out, if you don't want to be bothered with choosing a specific coin to mine you can use nicehash to simply mine whatever is most profitable and be paid out in BTC.

Keep in mind the law of diminishing returns with crypto mining, as time goes on and more hardware starts to mine your hardware will earn less and less, meaning when you see something that will make $1 a day, or $X a month, thats at best a guess and will continue to decrease over time.

You can see all the example cards on WhatToMine if you'd like suggestions on some good cards to buy and what you can expect to earn from them at present. The site also has an ASIC section if you'd like to research scrypt ASICS for comparison. It is MUCH more expensive to buy ASICs so for someone just starting out you probably want to find a good GPU and a coin to mine with it rather than trying to dive straight into the deep end with ASICs.

special way to set it up. Bamt is running APACHE web server. google the two places you need to change a port. Make it like 81

then get a free Dns at https://freedns.afraid.org/ theres HUNDREDS to choose from. Once u get one it binds to ur IP address by default.

THen u gotta use the WEB FORWARD service on the left to forward to a specific port. example: my site http://icebeast.mine.bz points to port 81 but its hidden.

next on ur router u gotta forward port 81 to ur miner ip

repeat for each one

GPU_MAX_ALLOC_PERCENT sets how much of the GPU memory you're allowed to allocate in one call. Default is 50%, but most cgminer settings use more than that - it really depends on how much memory there is on your GPU.

GPU_USE_SYNC_OBJECTS tells the AMD drivers to enable OpenCL/OpenGL object syncronization.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J2FQETH3QR3FG3D278EY

Word of caution.... If you don't have a good grasp on Ethernet cables, ASIC miners are WAY more complicated to understand. Be careful.

Do you know how much you pay for power? I would make sure it’s actually profitable before plugging it in long term.

This website:Cryptocompare has good info and mining calculators to estimate profit.

Good luck out there!

I'm looking into mining Litecoin too. I came across this Profitability Calculator you might want to check out. https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=20&HashingUnit=GH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=140&CostPerkWh=0.12

It's alright no need to apologize. Happy to help. The ROI (return on investment) right now is around 6 months. However this ROI could change as it is dependent on a few factors: Price of the coin (1 LTC = 60 USD currently), Difficulty rate per block (lenght of block and amount of miner available) and Pool payout.

If the coin keeps going up ( as we all hope it does) ROI in term of time will shorten. Check out this calculator

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=1000&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=1600&CostPerkWh=.13

But will it pay itself off, power is about 0.18USD/KWH. Nice hash says it will, https://www.nicehash.com/profitability-calculator/bitmain-antminer-l3?e=0.18&currency=USD, but it doesn't predict the difficulty increase.

https://www.nicehash.com/?p=calc

Here's a calculator that let's you select by specific cards. You can use this to at least get a rough estimation at hash rates. I would find some other coin to mine than litecoin.

You can try out the site whattomine.com that lets you select certain cards and get an estimated hash rate or there is another that I cannot remember off the top of my head but I'll edit this post if I remember it.

Edit: of course I remember it right away lol https://www.nicehash.com/?p=calc

Thanks. I'd love to upload it to Thingiverse but i'm not in agreement with their TOS. Section 3.2 reads:

> 3.2 License. You hereby grant, and you represent and warrant that you have the right to grant, to Company and its affiliates and partners, an irrevocable, nonexclusive, royalty-free and fully paid, worldwide license to reproduce, distribute, publicly display and perform, prepare derivative works of, incorporate into other works, and otherwise use your User Content, and to grant sublicenses of the foregoing, solely for the purposes of including your User Content in the Site and Services. You agree to irrevocably waive (and cause to be waived) any claims and assertions of moral rights or attribution with respect to your User Content.

http://www.thingiverse.com/legal

I'm not willing to forego all of my intellectual rights to Thingiverse and its partners. Wish there was a better site out there that didn't force me to give up all rights.

I'd be happy to directly provide the files to you if you don't want to download them from the Mega links i've provided. :-)

Here you go: http://www.sendspace.com/file/jiwm1o (filedropper 404d on me)

I also included the modified version where I set the minimum allowed voltage to 0.85v. The modified version has been working well for me, so unless you're returning it, I don't see the benefit of using the stock.

Nice, maybe you can get more kh/s with optimized kernel files.

1. Download: https://www.mediafire.com/?u51e55bz5y9e3is
2. unzip the bins to your cgminer folder. (make a backup of the old first)

Now start cgminer and you should get 10-20kh/s more. Don't know good configs for the new bios tho :-/ just have the old one

Try setting your temp target higher, maybe that will allow a bit less rpm. on the fans

Might still go the isopropyl route, the cheapest I found

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1ZCR48/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thanks

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=electricity+ethernet&qid=1629078217&sprefix=electricity+eth&sr=8-3

I use this for gaming, it's a 2 piece device that you plug to the electricity beside your router, you plug in a Ethernet cable and then you plug the second device wherever you want it to be, as long as is within the same main electric panel and then you have Ethernet. In gaming a have a 20ms ping so its way more than enough for mining.

GENNEL 10g Thermal Conductive Glue, Heatsink Glue, Thermal Adhesive for 3D Printer, LED, PC and Various Electronic Components That Need to Be Bonded - G109 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TSH6MNT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VCJ9WTMWGTWY45ZZ97X4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 5-Shelf Adjustable, Heavy Duty Storage Shelving Unit (350 lbs loading capacity per shelf), Steel Organizer Wire Rack, Chrome, (36L x 14W x 72H) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0A4B9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T8G0MEBRN04KAFGDNX4B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I believe you can upvote each response individually... ;-)

At any rate, since you are just using the unit as a bridge to give your miners WiFi access, you don't need to get another one in order to "extend" your coverage area unless you're 50+ feet away from the Internet router/hotspot.

Re: port splitter

What splitter did you buy?? Since most generic splitters I have seen/used are typically 2-in to 1-out SEMI-duplex port connection, you would likely not be able to use the two L3's independently since EACH needs its own assigned data link to/from the access point. This is why each miner is assigned a local network IP address by the router/hotspot and you are much better off with a cheap network SWITCH, which has the logic to process multiple DUPLEX ethernet connections simultaneously without data collisions. A low cost solution that would work for you is: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM

Scott-

This works great connecting one of my L3++ miners to the 5GHz band of my WiFi network and keeps pings to litecoinpool.org below 35ms.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R92CL5E

I'm not an electrician, so I'm not 100% sure that I'm using the "best" or most correct thing. But these are the cords I use:

From the wall to the PDU a 6-20P, I of course have a 6-20R outlet. I think the PDU came with a L6-20P if you already have that sort of outlet. I got a new cord instead of switching to the locking outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7JMRDA

Then I use these from the PDU to the miners.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00REWQWAO

I use this PDU to plug multiple L3s on a single 220 20A breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052NM4JA/

I currently have 4 plugged in and they're drawing 12A. I am pretty sure I undervolted them years ago, but I forget the details of exactly what I did.

Anti static dust brush would be best for anything compressed air won’t get off Meoliny Microfiber Delicate Duster Keyboard Brush Anti Static Brushes Computer Cleaning Keyboard Slot Cleaning Brush,Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N6BJXLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5D2NC3MME95G9HDXXSB1

Never a bother, no worries.

At 475 with an L3+ you're pushing the envelope, and they could easily approach the 75-80 mark. Some folks will tell you that is bad, as the hotter you run them, the less life they have. That is true, to a point...

However, I've seen these run high 70's at 475 and operate just fine. As long as you have airflow (as I cannot stress enough), these puppies are workhorses.

The intake air needs to be cooler than the air coming out of the back of it. I'll link the adapters that folks use to clamp on an exhaust hose, as they do work incredibly well.

I've also seen some folks back these up against a wall of plywood and insulation, with holes drilled out for each miner's exhaust to back up into, with the dryer vents aiming out a window, or into that heat box I mentioned. Just so long as your heat box has a way to exhaust to an outside source and away from the miners, it will keep them cool.

Check these out:

Exhaust adapters

Yeah I’d keep an eye on temps when you setup a heatbox. For what I got here anything more than 3 fed into it and the temps actually rise on the miners connected. Hoping when I get this it’ll be able to either have 4 fed into it or at least lower temps of the ones already fed into it. exhaust fan

i use these for the fans that are air pulling https://www.amazon.de/120x120mm-Kühler-Lüfter-Staubdicht-Computer/dp/B075MB7SR1/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=dust+filter+pc+fan&qid=1620725489&sr=8-3

To be honest we run these now . Easy to get and have worked great for us! Noise will be more but noise vs cooling . We pick cooling . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SQDKN7Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FJWMW6G1X7B2WKPDEKBS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

When you do get around to adding a breaker, make sure it’s a 240V breaker. That will cut the amps in half and leave plenty of room for overclocking.

Also, be careful. For the 120V circuits that you’re currently running on (which I’m assuming are normal residential 15amp circuits), two miners at stock frequency is still taking those circuits to the max. Just because the breaker doesn’t pop doesn’t mean you can’t melt wires and start a fire. Generally accepted practice is to not run a circuit over 80% of what it’s rated for, so 12amps for a 15 amp circuit. Two miners at stock frequency pull about 13.3 amps. And that doesn’t even factor in the moon landers or how old the wiring in your house is or anything else that might be plugged into that circuit.

If you won’t be adding a new breaker for awhile, check out this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRSXKN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XWBBGXBY4RR07WAJMETW?psc=1

Somebody posted it elsewhere on here. You can plug it into your dryer’s outlet. Will be much safer than your current setup.

The power cable you're going to use depends upon the outlet your electrician is going to put in. First your electrician is likely going to be unhappy about the setup anyway because this dense of a power setup can be difficult in some areas and still meet code.

6-15R outlets will get you 240v at 15A This would be the appropriate cable from Amazon.

Whatever cable you go with, I suggest staying with power cables that are at least 14AWG thickness.

Not sure how familiar you are with cabling but in very basic, non electrician speak to not burn down your place...before plugging stuff into the outlets your electrician will prepare, read the side of each power cable you use between the receptacle and your APW3+. The cable will have an AWG rating on the side. It should say 14AWG or LOWER. If it's higher...ex.(16AWG)(18AWG) etc...do not use it.

Np, I just wanted clarification. I think you'll get $4k no problem based on what they've been selling for on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/AntMiner-L3-504MH-Litecoin-Miner/dp/B06Y6KTH7P/ref=sr_1_4?m=A1LBZI6C51C6OJ

The APW3++ is a bit pricey due to it being brand new and in high demand, but the first batch from July is due to be delivered soon and they're still available on Amazon. Plus, they're specifically designed for the AntMiner L3+, which is what I assume you're attempting to power. Also, they can output 1200w over standard 120v power (up to 1600w over 220v), which is a nice improvement over the older APW3 and APW3+ models. https://www.amazon.com/AntMiner-Power-Supply-1200W-Connectors/dp/B0733JRFVL/ref=sr_1_6?m=A1LBZI6C51C6OJ

Are these the same as the ones on Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/I-Miners-Cooler-Simulator-Emulator-Antminer/dp/B07G7GXX2R/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=20BBCW8YFMTA&keywords=fan+spoofer+antminer&qid=1657298668&sprefix=%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-8# Would you need 5 per L7?

Something like this? 4 Prong 220 Volt Splitter, dé Dryer 30 Amp Splitter [NEMA 14-30P to 14-30R], Y Splitter for Dryer, Tesla, and Level 2 EV Charging, 10 AWG Wire, 3ft - UL Listed https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09N92CWV5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EJFH7ZKGPQW878SEE7V4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I think this is what you are looking for,

Parkworld 68871 NEMA 10-50 Splitter Cord, Industrial Male Plug 10-50P to 10-50R & 5-20R (T-Blade 5-15R) Female connectors, ONLY Output 250 Volt (3FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PWX2ZFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GWB66Z4X4CJ48P8Y82NY 70$ on Amazon

Use these outlets, one for each L7

ENERLITES Duplex Receptacle, 20 Amp Electrical Wall Outlet, Industrial Grade, 2-Pole, 3-Wire, 20A 250V, UL Listed, 62081-W, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YF2Y751/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RYTT16D1K5QW6MER8FBT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And use these cables

Heavy Duty Power Cord 220-250v UL 14 AWG 6-15P, Works for BITMAIN Miner APW3++ for Antminer T15, S11, DR5, A3, S9, D3, L3, T9, V9 and Also ETH and Many CryptoCoin Miners https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B3Z196P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XRHNMMKPW8J2VFSBHV8X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you have American outlets this is the right cable you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027JRMD0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SYHRW27VD8FA5VX477ZW

In the case you have another kind of outlet, only search for power supply cable 14 awg for 15A with the right connector

Unfortunately not. Your best bet is to just pick up another power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Bitmain-Antminer-Supply-APW7-Connectors/dp/B07FG81F7H/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=V6D7G07T6MEN&keywords=miner+power+supply&qid=1650507037&sprefix=miner+power+supply%2Caps%2C61&sr=8-3

And this is the receptical I use

ENERLITES Duplex Receptacle, 20 Amp Electrical Wall Outlet, Industrial Grade, 2-Pole, 3-Wire, 20A 250V, UL Listed, 62081-W, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YF2Y751/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VH2P6QDA1KNKPN3AE605?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not the same receptical type but this plug has been working like a champ...

Heavy Duty Power Cord 220-250v UL 14 AWG 6-15P, Works for BITMAIN Miner APW3++ for Antminer T15, S11, DR5, A3, S9, D3, L3, T9, V9 and Also ETH and Many CryptoCoin Miners https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B3Z196P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M1CV194902RD4S8E9VMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these and they work great.

I-Miners Cooler Fan Simulator Emulator for Antminer S9 S11 S15 S17 D3 L3+ A3 T9 T15 T17 Z9 Z11 E3 DR5 E3 Oil 3M Novec - Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G7GXX2R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2SSTNC97CSK7ZGWCZBBG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yo a hole in the wall vent or go on Amazon and get a widow vent and connect in Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 18 Inch Through 24 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB6IYNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4TVECYJA559R9AK1WWRT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cut a hole in the wall and vent. Get a bigger vent than you think you need.

iLIVING ILG8SF16VC Shutter Mount Exhaust Fan, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2NZGDV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_77R1CKEY86DJGJAWZQ58?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hi ThomasPancito, I appreciate the help and open to any suggestions. I’m on 240v 30 amp L630P connected to a tripp lite
PDU https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N28WRNDYWIAR&keywords=tripp+lite+pdu+30a&qid=1648154997&sprefix=tripp+lite+pdu+30%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-3

XFX Radeon R7850

GPU Clock - 1015MHz

GPU Memory - 1250MHz

Voltage - Locked @ Default (1.138V)

Temp - 72C

Fan - 74% (Auto)

Litecoin.conf:

host port user pass

protocol litecoin

worksize 256 aggression 15 threads_per_GPU 1 sharethreads 12 lookup_gap 2 gpu_thread_concurrency 10124

Reaper.conf:

kernel reaper.cl save_binaries yes enable_graceful_shutdown no long polling yes platform 0 device 0

mine litecoin

Using Reaper Controller, I get 344.4 kH/s with a stale rate of ~2.5%

I can turn the Intensity/Aggression to 16 and get 353.3 kH/s with little issues, although the temp runs up to around 75-76C

I use this. Sense Energy Monitor – Track Electricity Usage in Real Time and Save Money – Meets Rigorous ETL/Intertek Safety Standards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KY62DGWNWGN851KNYNHY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, that is a 3 phase power system. In the US, 2 legs of standard 480 v 3 phase gives 208 V. You are most likely in an industrial/commercial location. The APW3 is rated to run at 200 to 240 volts so 208 volts is fine. I would not worry about load balancing for this one 20 amp circuit. I'd switch it for this and you wont need a PDU.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5822-W-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U3I1S0/ref=sr\_1\_13?keywords=6-20r+receptacle&qid=1643286530&sr=8-13

Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 30A, 4 Outlets (C19), 208/240V, L6-30P, 12 ft. Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Power (PDUH30HV19),Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZPOIPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_JCS3S2JCNJF3JVVDJP9W?psc=1

They work decent enough. But definitely limited with larger power draw units.

I’m wondering if two of these are also ok. I’ve done the math and I say yes. But I’m wondering if u/levicam would agree.

C14 to C13 Power Cord - Black, 15A/250V, 14/3 AWG, IEC 60320 - Iron Box Part # IBX-4903-06 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085CE9O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_DTE8V5NSXYNKWV8WY7Q1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I’m wondering if two of these are also ok. I’ve done the math and say yes. But I’m curious if u/levicam agrees.

C20 to C19 Power Cord - Blue, 3 Foot, 20A/250V, 12/3 AWG, IEC 60320 - Iron Box Part # IBX-1704-03 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFQMQ22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3YXP9A7H5R79JQPKCHG9?psc=1

Sure thing buddy what ever u say. Buy more l3s and prey n hope doge keeps .20

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=500&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=800&CostPerkWh=0.12&MiningPoolFee=1

Not for litecoin, no. Etherium, is definitely worth, but your window for profit on that one is closing due to the upcoming PoW to PoS switch. Just be mindful of this and set your expectations correctly going in.

Ethereum Mining Profitability Calculator (cryptocompare.com)

Proof-of-stake (PoS) | ethereum.org

This is what we use. Has replacement modules in the event of a surplus surge whole unit doesn't need replaced. There is a heavier rated unit also available, comes with its own 50k warranty/insurance also. Not sure how honest they are with that policy though. Haven't had any issues so far on ours.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SBC0LTE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_08RGRTGJG8PCBXSHNCZW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yes and these are the boxes I ordered BOX USA B303025 Corrugated Boxes, 30"L x 30"W x 25"H, Kraft (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2763ZI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZEWP4WZXGNWFVC2R2JV7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Google or Amazon search audio equipment special power cords. They even make 10 awg c13 12awg c13 $25 There’s even odd ones like 11awg c13

Audio power cords also called hifi power cords

https://www.amazon.com/WAudio-Hi-End-Audio-Power-Cable/dp/B01L2SBWKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=XVHFCRBQK1I6&keywords=audio+power+cord&qid=1640469922&sprefix=audio+power+cords%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-3

You need 12awg wire from 20A breaker to receptical.

If you want to go with a 14 gauge for the power cable you can go with these

https://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-220-250v-HEAVY-Power-Antminer/dp/B078SW9WCW

Stored funds are not at risk, and never were at risk.

https://www.reddit.com/r/litecoin/comments/9habyx/litecoin_core_v0163_release_litecoin_project/

Upgrade stats:

https://blockchair.com/litecoin/nodes

So far, it's still profitable to mine. With my electricity, my realized LTC price is $65.30:

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=550&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=942&CostPerkWh=0.08&MiningPoolFee=0

$660.15 / $10.11 = $65.30

I am going to keep watching. If the price ever gets below my magic number, I'll be powering it down. So far, it isn't.

I am doing the same thing, but it may behoove you to do the math on what your LTC costs you to mine. If the price gets too low + difficulty too high, the cost to mine it will be more than just outright buying it.

Go here, and put in your stats:

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=550&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=942&CostPerkWh=0.08&MiningPoolFee=1

Divide the power cost per year by your total coins mined per year. Using the above numbers at the current difficulty, my mined LTC cost me $68.48 each. So.. if the price drops below that, and/or the difficulty increases to run my cost up, then I will shut my miners down and just start buying again.

If you don't already have an antminer L3+ you may not be able to recoup costs. These machines become obsolete in months. It may be better to wait for Gh/s miners to release. Check out this litecoin mining difficulty projection and then do the math: https://steemit.com/litecoin/@xbm/litecoin-difficulty-forecast

Do you think you will recoup your costs with the September batch? All the litecoin mining calculators seem to have it wrong as they keep difficulty static. This is what difficulty could look like in the coming months: https://steemit.com/litecoin/@xbm/litecoin-difficulty-forecast

I doubt it's the extension cord. It sounds like you may have a heat issues, or you might have a hashboard or control board that may be on its way out. I'd reinstall the firmware. Then change your PW. I'd also run the miner at defauts settings or at the default frequency and with a reduce volts. Also, just for safety reasons and to ensure it's not your extension cord use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V8BMZWH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_50V5WZEPJ2QMP0B02263

I have them on all 11 of my miners.

I have used these and they work great. HotTopStar 6000 RPM Case Fan for AntMiner D3/L3+/T9/X3/Z9, Quiet Computer Cooling Fan DC 12V 2.7A Replacement 4 Pin Connector for Antminer S7 S9, RZ1238H12B-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SQDKN7Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JSDS5XWRNH826C08GBWK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I used this - seems to be holding up pretty good thus far.

Halnziye 10Gram Thermal Conductive Glue Silicone Plaster Viscous Adhesive Cooling Compound for LED GPU Chipset Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L7WFSJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F9CC4NDB7KVY962G0QEJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use this and it connects to my cellular wifi hotspot.

It's about the only option bc the hotspot has no physical connection to it.

VONETS VAP11G-300 Mini WiFi Bridge/Repeater/WiFi to Ethernet Convert/WiFi Hotspot Extender Signal Booster /2.4GHz 300Mbps with 1 RJ45 Male DC/USB Powered for DVR IP Printer Network Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SK2H6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_WBY2PRC9X22KJ14W195P

I swear by MultiMiner. https://github.com/nwoolls/MultiMiner/releases

"MultiMiner is a graphical application for crypto-coin mining on Windows, OS X and Linux. It uses the underlying mining engine (bfgminer) to detect available mining devices and then presents a user interface for selecting the coins you'd like to mine." - Scrypt and SHA-256.

All credit and a HUGE thank you to Nate Woolls!!! https://github.com/nwoolls Never met you buddy but I look forward to every update....

Here is a approximate calculator:

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/ltc?HashingPower=320&HashingUnit=KH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=112&CostPerkWh=0.12

This estimated your card costing you ~$10 a month after cashing out the ltc.

If you want to do this for fun, you'll be good, but don't do it to profit.

Do your own research, but 3 months ago I was told that in two months you would be making negative money from it and it would not be worth it at all and I would just go in the hole more and more every month.

3 months ago, people with a L3+ was making about 1500$ /month with Nicehash. I was told in to onths it was going to be about 200$/month. 3 months later, it's at $1600 and I have seen it up to $1900 in between then.and that's AFTER electricity costs. I have kicked myself many times for not buying it..

Let us know what you decide!

https://www.nicehash.com/?p=calc

I would check NiceHash.com's profitability calculator, found here:

https://www.nicehash.com/index.jsp?p=calc

Just multiply everything times 6 and it should give you a rough idea of how much you may rake in.

My thoughts: set -w 128, and you have 2 spaces after some arguments, instead of one, cgwatcher does not like that (I know you use .bat-s, but maybe the same applies).

My x15 relevant settings r9 270s: -d 0-2 --algorithm bitblock -o stratum+tcp://*** -u *** -p *** --failover-only -o stratum+tcp://*** -u **.1 -p x ** --worksize 128 --gpu-fan 20-85 --auto-fan --gpu-threads 2 --intensity 19 --thread-concurrency 8192 --shaders 1280 --gpu-platform 0 --gpu-powertune 20 --lookup-gap 2 --temp-cutoff 85 --temp-overheat 80 --temp-target 69 --gpu-engine 1100 --gpu-memclock 1250 --api-listen --api-allow W:127.0.0.1 --hamsi-expand-big 1 --failover-switch-delay 15

Note that this gives me a few HW errors (1-2 in 8 hours), but I can't do shizz about that so I just ignore them. This: "--hamsi-expand-big 1" does nothing for my hash speeds tbh.

Edit: miner is sgminerv5 from here: https://www.nicehash.com/software/ they update it regularly.

to answer your question, yeas i do repair asic boards , have 16 L3+ boards i got to get done, plus have some asic testers to get finished as well as hash board hex code editors done as well.. yea we busy busy lol plus bachelor of CS at Purdue. I've been fighting with my previous host, it crashed a while back. i didn't get the customer support i expected, or needed, so its gone, i spent sooooo much time on that site, i just signed with siteground.com they pitched me a number i couldn't refuse. waiting on them to get the dns stuff switched and all that jazz. I'm working on the right now, on top of we just spoke with an attorney about a civil suite against eBay and PayPal. as of today they have honestly cost my wife and roughly 250k in revenue with my projections being verified and realistic. im working on my sight and simultaneously loading Linux on some pcs.

Are these plugged into powered risers or directly on the motherboard? I recently had an issue with only 2 identical r9 270x's plugged directly into the motherboard, The 2nd card was hashing a bit slower ~10-20khs and the system was kinda unstable. Reboot every 12 hours or so sometimes it would hard lock. One day I thought it had hard locked but when I got home the 24pin motherboard connector was burned pretty badly. Turns out even though I only had 2 cards on the MB they were still pulling too much power through the PCIE bus.

Luckily the motherboard was salvageable. I ended up getting a EVGA power boost: http://www.evga.com/articles/00600/ Once I got the pc back up and running with the power boost in there the cards are now mining with identical hash rates and the system is rock solid.

Step 1: Download the Xubuntu ISO image. I got the 64-bit version. <a href ="http://cdimage.ubuntu.com/xubuntu/releases/13.10/release/">

Step 2: Download this Linux Live USB program. <a href ="http://www.linuxliveusb.com/en/download">

Step 3: Burn the ISO image onto a CD/DVD or a USB drive. On a flash drive, choose Format in FAT32.

Step 4: Reboot the computer and have the BIOS boot from either your CD drive or the USB port (hold down F2 or Del key to enter BIOS/UEFI). From here, you can run a Live version of Xubuntu, or you can install it onto a hard disk partition or another USB drive (at least 8MB needed).

Let me know what my daily average earning should be after 5 days of consistent pool uptime. If it's comparable I'll gladly join. In the meantime if you need help making sure the pool is secured from things like ddos, brute force attacks and things like that let me know. I can help you there buy initiating those kinds of attacks against your pool for test purposes before you start having others join in. Just make sure you pm me any info you don't wish to share with others here and we can coordinate what kinds of test you want and when you want them ran.

If you're going to be running this on OS X I would recommend you install some additional network packages from homebrew that you can use while testing so you can see and track results from your end.

https://brew.sh/

Some packages that may be helpful would be tcpdump, tcptrace, httpflow and ntopng.

Or if you're not familiar with working from the terminal you could just run wireshark.

Did you get yourself setup with a nice hardware firewall?

Depends on what was in the tar file. If only contained an image file, that won't work. You'll need to image the card with something like balenaEtcher.

That said, I've never done this before. So, I googled it.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=5149789.0

Yep flashing it back to an older stock version, either the hybrid BIOS-EFI one or the good ol' award BIOS.

only for the gigabytes tho, the MSI's have the option even in UEFI.

edit: howto link - http://www.tonymacx86.com/general-help/62361-official-method-flash-back-gigabyte-bios-efi.html

By the way, in case you didn't already do this...

http://serverfault.com/questions/243343/headless-ubuntu-server-machine-sometimes-stuck-at-grub-menu

It configures GRUB to continue launching Linux on a timeout even if an error occurs (e.g. a GPU gets SICK or DEAD). This costed me half a day of mining today (had to go home and figure out why sudo reboot wouldn't work).

Also interested. My guess is use srvany to create the cgminer service then active directory script to launch service at sign out. http://superuser.com/questions/146141/best-srvany-exe-for-windows-xp-and-windows-7

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/magazine/dd630947.aspx

sgminer --algorithm bitblock -o X -u X -p X -g 2 --xintensity 80 -w 64

I'm still using: X15_AMD_06_29 for a miner with 13.12 drivers, but with the 14.6 beta dlls inside the sgminer directory.

--intensity 17 also works fine, but --xintensity 80 gave them a slight boost I found

the 14.6 dlls and the -w 64 are very important.

Since you're in Windows already, I'll just leave this here.

• zero cost
• doesn't require rebooting
• simple GUI
• doesn't require your drives to have assigned letters

Make sure you "burn" the image to the SD disk, not copy and paste.

I format them to FAT16 before I burn the image to a drive, Not Fat32 like the 8gb cards.

If balana etcher is having a problem, I use Win32 Disk Imager (link below). It seems that the etcher program doesn't like my laptop's SD drive and always fails check.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjZm6yVrbfyAhWzAp0JHXeTD50QFnoECAUQAg&amp;usg=AOvVaw1SNdrXwADj0DUttQ_zrJzF

After testing have to concur with Drogean, worth another 10 kh/s on Gigabyte 280x. This kernel is now included in 4.1.0. too in the kernel directory, filename is "zuikkis.cl" If you are running 4.0 replace your scrypt130511.cl with this one and delete your .bin, it will be recreated based on the new scrypt130511.cl

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_EJYw4JvsnvbndpY3F0ci1BOUk/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-SlmekBENeSGJoNlZUMW1zbGc/edit?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-SlmekBENeSTZKQVlvekdaNHc/edit?usp=sharing

here is syslog and dmsg

I read an entry to the effect of "IOMMU is not available on this system" from my research into the issue I have come across instances where IOMMU must be enabled to utilize GPU's in the x1 slot. Could it be Ubuntu 12.04 that is the problem?

I think this is really more of an effort to rally actual coins behind whoever steps up to the plate to do it. I pledged 2 LTC on the condition that an Ubuntu repository is created similar to https://launchpad.net/~unit3/+archive/bfgminer

Tripp Lite Isobar 4 Outlet 230V Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Right-Angle Plug, Metal, (IB4-6/220) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HZ4N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZE2PFC72P6CCCW5PY1D8

I use this but I need something for my network cables

I bought a bunch of L3+ at about the same price and I'm making decent money, will pay off the machines in like 6 months if things stay steady and I'm paying for power where you aren't. Nobody knows what's going to happen when L7s join in. As for your wiring you can always do what I did and get an adapter to change your dryer plug into a 220V twist lock that you can plug a PDU into. You gotta stop mining to use the dryer but it's better than nothing.

Just installed two of these. Super quiet, but reduced airflow and a noticeable increase in PSU case temp. Went from 83f to around 90f with ambient at 72f. I'll keep an eye on temps as it gets warmer to be sure it doesn't cascade.

Found these to go with the fans, no cutting, splicing, or soldering. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083CRN5L6

Just FYI: 80C is suppose to be the BM1845 ASIC (and a few other components') max operating temperature, not the median temp. Ideal is to keep the miner chip temp below 55C. If needed, you can also try reversing the air flow where the cool air comes IN the rear of the miner and exits the front - below the RJ45 jack.

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For the APW-3++, the Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX works great as a replacement [quiet] fan. All you need to do is change the fan header plug to fit the stock 2pin on the PSU or solder it directly to the PCB. I installed 25 that have been doing great for over 6 months now.

Scott-

U can use any regular 20amp receptacle.

But if ur paranoid and worried that ur mom might walk in unplug ur asic and connect a vacuum cleaner or ur not aware of your surroundings and or your worried that NEC might brake in to ur crib in the middle of the night n issue 10 dozen tickets for improper electrical wiring n usuing wrong receptacle.

Than u can buy one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5822-W-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U3I1S0/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1GHLFCXH9RL0R&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=20amp+250v+outlet&amp;qid=1633264616&amp;sprefix=20amp+250&amp;sr=8-9

I installed this shutter fan in my set up with a digital cooling thermostat. I works great!!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G8I7M30/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_fabc_EVS2ANCSTRBQN8HQJTNQ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZV591B/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_fabc_230836B2PGGT6QEMSBX8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Sound isn't an issue. My problem is searching for fans meant to be vented straight vertical. Like I really want an airlift T16 but the sales rep told me not to do that because of the shutter system for weather proofing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9265QZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3DD9EGRDXSKEWHWTC1WE?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Price range is under $400

Hello Accuto, I bought an LT5 pro recently and I'm not able to figure how to start it, I was reaching out to so many people, please let me know if you can help me , here is my issue:

I bought a cable from amazon to power my LT5 pro from here: Link to the cable, I was able to power up my lt5 pro miner, my miner did start properly but I was not able to get the hash rate displayed on the website, It says 'failed to start up' on all the CPB 0, CPB 1, CPB 2, CPB 3, Is this because of the power cable I was using or is it some other issue with the miner.

&#x200B;

Thanks

Ajay

[email protected]

615-438-7836

Garrett Preston

&#x200B;

I you wanna buy one right now he has 1 left on amazon for $1189

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https://www.amazon.com/AntMiner-L3-504MH-Litecoin-Miner/dp/B06Y6KTH7P/ref=sr\_1\_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=l3+antminer&amp;qid=1631799891&amp;sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HY9E2?psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

This is the one I just purchased. Two of them.

Here is the Amazon links to the contactor and app controlled switches that I used.

Sonoff WiFi Switch 8-Pack Alexa Switches Wireless Remote Control Electrical for Household Appliances,Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Home,DIY Smart Home Devices on Your Phone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S21X9T/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7P3F5VTY07XSTN6E4RZR?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Packard - DP301202 C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BWDVZB8MPX02EGB7AGWD?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I dont have a pic or schematic handy but basically you power the app switch with 120v and then that connects to the coil of the contactor. When the switch is engaged, it makes the contactor turn on. Then you just run your 240v in one side of the contactor and out the other. May be able to google some wiring diagrams.

I ran off my panel:

2 Pole 30A Breakers

From Breaker to Outlet ran a 10AWG 2 wire and Ground to a Leviton 2620

Leviton 2620 30 Amp, 250 Volt, Flush Mounting Locking Receptacle, Industrial Grade, Grounding, V-0-MAX, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NAT9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_PVYVYQF2B0ZHW7N7D556

Off the Outlet I bought a PDU 24A 14 Outlet

And plugged my units into this.

Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 14 Outlets (12 C13, 2 C19), 100-240V, C20 with L6-20P Adapter, 1.6-3.8kW, 12 ft. Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Single-Phase PDU (PDUH20DV),Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q7I8D4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZAB8HPVXP6YH9GSQCX2V

He may also want to run a 120V ckt as well so you can plug for fans/switch(internet)/anything you want to power nearby

Board has a boost circuit that takes 10v and gives out 14v. For some reason that part of the circuit gets damaged, and an easy fix is ti put a jumper wire from the 12v input to that 14v(dead) output(chinese repair). Or You can Buy a small board that is a booster circuit and conect it to the 10v dc and the output to the 14v. It has a potmeter where You adjust the output voltage. It cost a few bucks. Here is an example https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Paquete-m%C3%B3dulos-convertidores-impulso-XL6009/dp/B07XG323G8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Boost+Converter&amp;qid=1629579548&amp;sr=8-3 Hope this helps.

There you go

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/inteligente-compatible-concentrador-electrodom%C3%A9sticos-cualquier/dp/B08R5C2Q26/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=240v+smart+plug&amp;qid=1629250480&amp;sprefix=240v+smart+&amp;sr=8-4

Try to do a quick search, everything it's readily available for mining at home.