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I understand not wanting to order more parts when you're excited to finish or start a build, but it's better then finishing only to find out you screwed yourself. I've done it, I'll probably do it again, but you should definitely order some standoffs. There's a great pack on Amazon prime for $10-$20. I can get you a link if you'd like, I just ordered some recently.
Edit: here's the link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8JZWZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kdmK3lKPwvJgr
Probably cheaper than replacing your motors would be buying a 2.5" frame (I'm thinking of getting this one soon) and running larger props on your lower KV motors.
>Are you sold on the Naza V2? The Lite version has the same hardware but different firmware. Rumor has it there's a hack to get the Lite to work exactly as a V2. here
Thanks for this tip, it really helps my budget!
You're going to have a hard time keeping the legs out of the picture with the standard H3 mounting. I suggest an extension bracket to allow the camera and gimbal to jet out from the PCB board.
Something like this: http://www.gothelirc.com/shopexd.asp?id=2312
Are you sold on the Naza V2? The Lite version has the same hardware but different firmware. Rumor has it there's a hack to get the Lite to work exactly as a V2. here
This is a good starting build. I built two 450s and a 550. Let me know if you get stuck.
I bought a venom locally. Some savings buying online, but not much. https://jet.com/product/detail/74f5a453da484e5b8fcdbd53ac884719?jcmp=pla:ggl:brands_electronics_a2:electronics_accessories_power_a2_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=7f0822c9-c092-4b31-9f9e-400a99d7b9af&gclid=CNShotnl9MgCFU06...
I'd get the Eachine EV800 instead of the VR007 Pro, the extra $15 is definitely worth it. The VR007's smaller screen and much lower resolution makes it a much worse experience.
Spend as much money as you can on goggles, transmitter and battery charger, and you can reuse them for quite some time. The QX7 is a good transmitter choice. I'd get an IMAX B6 if can swing it. If you need to save a bit of coin, a knockoff B6 is still a better choice at around the same cost as the Tenergy. You can use your car battery or salvaged PC power supply to run the charger for now, but that little Tenergy will take an hour and a half or more to charge your battery up from full discharge, which will get old fast.
Bad news - Devo 7s aren't compatible with DSM receivers.
Good news - You can get a suitable receiver for your radio fairly cheap
There will be a little soldering involved, but it's not that hard if you've got the equipment.
Please Note - I know nothing about Walkera stuff so I'm making a few assumptions here, but it looks to me like this should work.
Those escs are really outdated. If it's not beyond your budget, go for these.
Other than that, looks good imo. I use those motors, 6500kv with 2.5'' props and 3s, it's a rocket.
Usually its just arms... usually. I suggest either a ZMR of QAV kit. Those are the two most popular frames.
EDIT: Just found this. Everything in one package. Good motors (2204, not <1806) Good ESCs(included UBEC) Okay transmitter (has interchangeable modules which is very good.) Everything else is pretty rudimentary. Only comes with one set of props though.
That isn't a standard frame so it would be hard to get replacement parts- especially since this is your first build. This is a standard frame (very common, very good). It comes with everything but a transmitter and reciever (even includes a battery and charger!)
It's on sale now, ends in 2 days.
A Blade Inductrix BNF is $49.99 on amazon, it binds with a spektrum transmitter. Lots of people use these indoors and out with a camera, google tiny whoop for guides on how to add fpv etc.
Ended up going with the Martian II 220mm frame. Also picked up the swift, the 20a v2s, the vtx osd, the cyclones, and these motors off amazon since everything on banggood was sold out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFD3WBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rn.2ybE6Q1R49
Going to pick up a naze 32 rev6 sometime today from the local hobby shop, not much more expensive and since they've been pretty helpful as well I figured I could support a local business.
Last question about parts to get--- batteries and charger. Might you have a good suggestion on what and where to get decent batteries. I want to get a few of them so I don't want to break the bank, but I also don't want something that's crap.
Again, thanks for the help. Should have all the parts soon. I only ordered things the were in the US warehouse off of banggood and everything else I found for a few bucks more on amazon.... I'm impatient so it was worth the 10 or so dollars extra.
I got the 90c 1500mah 4s from Infinity via Amazon(I had a gift card) so I can return them if they are bad. Will report back.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT43WUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if it's true that graphene batteries have much longer lifespans but I hope so. Sick of my packs wearing out.
Does Amazon sell internationally? I have no idea. The best solder is this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you can find kester 63/37 anywhere that'll ship to you that's the stuff. I wasted a lot of money on little tubes from my hardware store until I just stocked up with a reel of this
you can get real emax rs2205 on amazon for the same price
Telemetry allows you to change VTX settings and pids using your controller buttons and screen. This is really handy, especially if you race and end up changing your VTX channels often. You can do it over the OSD or using a mobile app if you have the right cords, but editing and viewing right on your transmitter is quite convenient.
Audio alerts on battery low are also really handy. Sure, I can monitor them on my OSD, but it's nice to not have to and put my full concentration on flying.
You may not really care about telemetry right now, but for an extra buck or 3 it's quite worth it for future convenience.
Flight controller might have a bad BEC. I’d return it if you can, or you can add one of these
A hex is the way to go, you get much better power to weight. I have a F550 exactly as we are talking about.
Whats your budget? On the cheapest end I would get this APM, no retracts combo here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/S550-F550-500-Upgrade-PCB-carbon-fiber-Hexacopter-Frame-Kit-with-Unflodable-Landing-Gear-for-FPV/32518985677.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_10000009_10084_10000025_10083_10000029_10080_10...
If you want to do it right with quality stuff I would get this frame which has retracts, with retracts, DJI E320 or sunnysky or tmotor or some other quality motor/ESC, and a pixraptor: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/hmf-s550-pcb-hexacopter-fpv-aircraft-frame-w-hml650-electronic-retractable-landing-gear-combo.html
Analog is the way to go! Can you say anything about Aliexpress kits? (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/F450-Multi-Copter-Quadcopter-Rack-Kit-Frame-APM-2-6-7M-GPS-Power-Module-2212-920KV/32476744704.html) Are they crap or average? I dont think they would be really high quality but they dont look too bad
Actually you are right, i should have wrote the build in my head and ask if it will work
2212 920kv motors from AliEx (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-6pcs-2212-920KV-Brushless-Motor-CW-CCW-for-F330-F450-F550-X525-Multirotor-Quadcopter)
6x xm30a or racerstar rs35a v2 (both opto mini escs, will it be a problem? i will use external becs instead)
F550 frame
SP F3/Revo F4 flight controller (not sure about that. I dont need autonomous flight but never used sp f3 or revo f4 with gps or even attitude hold)
And M8N GPS. As i heard its the only one thats worth buying
Or should i go with a cheaper option, f450 kit from aliex? (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/F450-Multi-Copter-Quadcopter-Rack-Kit-Frame-APM-2-6-7M-GPS-Power-Module-2212-920KV/) its cheap and comes with all stuff, but im not sure about their quality
I absolutely love my Devo7e, but it definitely takes a decent amount of soldering to get up to the standard of the i6. The stock radio module (which is the one used for Devo and DSMX/DSM2 protocols) has a power amp which is disabled by default and you need to pop the case off and short out one (practically microscopic) diode to enable it (which you'd need for more than a couple hundred metres rang on Devo/DSMX). It's pretty tricky and easy to screw up, though a replacement module was pretty cheap from BangGood (and already had that increased power enabled).
I haven't actually tested the range on it - looking at maps, I doubt I've gone past 350~450m. It far outranges the cheap 433MHz telemetry radio on the same machine though. On that note, I recommend instead using a cheap bluetooth module (HC06 for example, can't remember what the newer BT4.0 version is) or an ESP8266 (WiFi) so you can configure, check battery, upload waypoints, etc. About two bucks either way.
Thanks! I was looking at this one on Amazon, but yours looks a bit better
Its this. I am also thinking of getting a Taranis x9d because it is the one controller that works with the simulator I use and it will scale up in the future. I would get the kylin vision goggles. I am still deciding on this as my first fpv racer or if I get a qx90? Thanks!
Nothing in these kits are any good. The only benefit i could see is for practice building without worrying if you wreck the components.
The motors are weak, strange brands, only rated to 2-3s. The ESC's are super out dated and underpowered. FC is also out dated and probably a chore to work with.
Can't comment on the quality of the frame, sometimes the cheap frames are surprisingly ok but again i wouldn't risk my parts all getting ruined if it explodes on impact.
This is probably one of the cheaper but still good RTF quads atm http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Wizard-X220-FPV-Racer-Blheli_S-Naze32-6DOF-5_8G-48CH-200MW-700TVL-Camera-w-FlySky-I6-RTF-p-1077100.html
And this is one of the better kits for its price too http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_427259.html?wid=21
UAVfutures and Joshua Bardwell are both youtubers who have a lot of content aimed at helping people get into the hobby, worth checking out their recommendations for kits and such too.
> You'll need a battery charger. I would highly recommend springing for 100W+ upfront, some of the most commonly recommend models are ~60W but those take forever to charge these 3000mah+ batteries (most people fly 250 size quads which have smaller batteries). Also make sure you have a power supply for your charger (if it doesn't come with one) that can push more than the charger needs (plan 15-20% of headroom). A battery charger tends to max out its power supply and most of them overheat and shut down when they run at 100% for too long.
Righto, hadn't picked a battery charger yet, only glanced at them briefly thusfar, and I had planned on getting a pair of them.
>Storm32 is a gimbal controller, you'll also need the motors and other associated hardware. Make sure you have a camera in mind first, and try to find and replicate an exact perfect setup that has worked for someone else. Gimbals can sometimes be finicky and track motion poorly if everything doesn't line up and work together well.
Hmm... what I was looking at was this, which appears to be the whole assembly. Gearbeast does have a listing for the controller board alone as well: http://www.gearbest.com/fpv-system/pp_244970.html
As for the finicky part, that was a concern as well. I saw one video where the gimble didn't work correctly until a gopro camera was mounted to it for weight balance. It seems a lot of gimbles are 'programmed' for the weight of said gopro, which I didn't want to use for this.
And good to know on the telemetry. Thank you for the information, this helps a lot with what I need to look into next. :)
or fit a UBEC which will step down the voltage from the battery voltage to 5v output https://www.banggood.com/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC-For-RC-Models-p-915037.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN
Your power supply is a little under for charging, you want something more like this:
For reference, to charge one 1500mAh 4S at 1C (1.5A) requires about 26W, and chargers aren't totally efficient, so the charger needs about 30W - the PSU you have linked provides 36W, probably a bit less. 120W would allow you to charge four at the same time using a balance board or quick-charge two at 2C.
Get four packs - two is only really enough to warm up.
Can you stretch to a Taranis xLite and an R-XSR? It's such a better option and at the end of the day you'll probably end up switching anyway, so you're spending now to save later.
You seem to have two vTx's listed for some reason - the E709TM3 and the VTX03.
The Martian II is a better choice than the Lissam, or better still the TBS Source One. Both those frames have replaceable arms, but the Lissam is a solid bottom plate. Again, spending money to save it later on breakages.
Kingkong props are garbage - although admittedly that's probably where your first sets will be going very quickly :D Grab yourself some DAL Cyclone 5046's for when the Kingkongs are used up, they're solid, cheap and fly nicely on just about everything.
You need some 30AWG wire for things like signal wires. You might be able to get away with what comes with the components, but you'll probably need some at some point.
Quick note on motor choice - 2300KV is better for a beginner, but you could buy the 2500KV and limit your throttle in betaflight until you feel the need for a little more chooch.
Don't forget a 2mm hex driver and some wire cutters!
I would replace it.
The motor testing screen in the betaflight configurator will use the accelerometer to measure motor vibration when you spool one up. You want to make sure the motors don't vibrate too much when you throttle up. Here's a JB video about it. If the ESCs are acting normal when you run through the throttle range in the motors tab, they should be fine.
It is important to match motor/prop combo with ESC amp capacity. The motor specifications should include a throttle table showing amps drawn and thrust produced for a variety of props. For the motors you currently use, scroll down the page to find the table. For a 5045 prop, the max amps drawn is 27. Your 20A ESCs can handle 27 for short burst, so they are fine. If you are concerned about losing motor bells, look for motors that use a screw to secure the bell instead of a c-clip. For example, this motor.
Seems like you can use most of the stuff you already have. I think it's important you don't have an old flight controller and ESCs as those have probably changed/improved the most.
I am kind of in a similar boat as you.. I am picking up the hobby from previous attempts with some gear I already had.
You can get some pretty nice deals in general. In your case, if you're not doing FPV.. things are even simpler as you don't need a VTX or Goggles (although you could probably even fit those into your remaining budget).
From what I can tell you're really only missing the Flight Controller, ESC, a TX module for your Turnigy 9xr Pro, RX control module for your quad.
Flight controller, I would suggest finding out an F4 controller which can load Betaflight (firmware). They seem to be all the rage and there is plenty of choice for all sorts of budgets. You can perhaps look for similar ~450mm builds and see what they use. I would do the same for ESCs. You can probably score a combo deal as well. For instance something like this should be plenty of power for that size frame (maybe even overkill for a beginner): https://www.banggood.com/HAKRC-Betaflight-F4-Flight-Controller-OSD-Intergrated-PDB-35-2-5S-Blheli32-Bit-Brushless-ESC-w-LED-p-1277962.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Once you decide which module you're going to get for your Turnigy 9xr, you can then just get the receiver board for that protocol (you can get these for about $20 or less). I would perhaps see if you have any friends who are into this hobby and try to standardize on the same protocol. FrSky stuff seems to be the most popular now days, so perhaps that's not a bad choice. Personally I use Spektrum DSMX which is nice because I like flying Inductrix based Tiny Whoops and those only support DSMX.
That drone I think is a bit too big for a beginner, so make sure you have plenty of practice on a simulator, and take it slow.
Cool thanks, any suggestions on a tx setup? Been looking at the Turnigy 9x but it's not in stock on hobby king UK so looking for an alternative. One suggestion is this
I've got the 7'' which flies just fine - here are my PIDs:
https://www.screencast.com/t/QnrRyu6Pl
Let me know if you need any other settings and I'll share them.
Im using thisflight controller and the sticks do not move under the receiver tab, I have been trying to figure that out also, as I have thought that I would need to set the arm first.
Have you seen that Matek all-in-one? Seems pretty good on paper
Spend 5 more bucks and get much better motors
I would also suggest to Martian frame, but I dont think it's going to change the handling much.
Great question! Forgot to add props the build on rotorbuilds.
No FPV gear for now. I want to learn and practice more line of sight before going down that road.
Edit: Martian II looks good. Hows the PDB on it? Or should I stick with the one on my list?
I think the Eachine EV800 is a great starting set of goggles. I also have a set of VR D2s, but find myself using the simple EV800s most.
For Tx I'm not sure as I went straight with the Taranis X9D Plus, as people had made it seem like I'd upgrade to it eventually anyways - not sure if that's still true (there might be something better out there).
The Tarot FY690S is what I'll probably go with next, but I just wanted to point out the other things I've been looking at that are cheap. This S550 I'm sure you've run across. It is not nearly what the Tarot is, but in case you hadn't seen it - there it is. Also this cheap plastic F550 (sometimes called the Q550 I believe).
Are these motors good? Also where can I find DAL-3 blades? I looked them up on Hobbyking and couldnt find them
Thank you my friend. Your post about that FTDI to USB 6 pin tool has lead me to this quote:
"The pinout order on the board won't necessarily match the ftdi, just make sure your adapter cable does."
SO with that being said, the pinout order in that tool there is from left to right: DTR RX TX VCC CTS GND
I need: GND 5V RX TX
SO! then i found this: FT232 to USB TTL Upload / Download Wire Scatter Cable
i think this scatter cable will give me the freedom to hook up to any micro FC pin order.
This JUNCHENG3015 2 is considered 'the fastest rtf nano' and it costs $7 more.
Well, if you buy a kit like this:
http://www.gearbest.com/rc-parts/pp_89757.html
it includes
Includes 3-axis gyro, accelerometer and magnetometer and a high-performance barometer On-board 4 MegaByte Dataflash chip for automatic datalogging One of the first open source autopilot systems to use Invensense's 6 DoF Accelerometer/Gyro MPU-6000 Barometric pressure sensor upgraded to MS5611-01BA03, from Measurement Specialties Atmel's ATMEGA2560 and ATMEGA32U-2 chips for processing and USB functions respectively
and bundles a GPS as well.
It's ready to run the open source ArduPilot software which you can hack on and compile and install yourself.
Draftsight is a free CAD program from the solid works folks. I use it regularly at work. It's a little odd feeling at first IMO but it's really a pretty decent software program. It can do everything you're talking about, no problem.
Second this and adding that FPV is probably easier too. I get really turned around trying to fly line of sight. I'm not sure it's a good way to assess the hobby, even though plenty of people started out that way before FPV was a thing.
I dipped my toes in with something dinky like this. The one I got at the time was actually compatible with goggles I could use for my later builds. I basically threw it all away once I moved past it, but it was an OK introduction, especially if you move from that into a simulator to get a better idea of how a "real" quadcopter would handle.
That's a good question tbh. But i don't think you have to. Since the cable is reducing the Voltage from Battery (4-6S) down to USB Voltage, which should be 5V, but i'd double check that before frying the Runcam :P This is the cable btw.
On the camera, there's a part of the FC manual that mentions OSD input (Page 10 towards the bottom) that I was hoping would just tie right into the camera, but if not I guess I'll have to pass on those options until I can get my hands on one of those controllers. As for the fitment/size, I had no idea there were smaller cameras being used now, but I hope it fits; I got the Avenger 215 5inch since I couldn't find a Martian 2 that would deliver before I have to go out of town for work for a while.
That's good to know that 4-in-1's are getting better though. I did like the idea of them until that guide said they were unreliable. When I start making upgrades or move on to a new build, I'll have to try one out.
And no worries, I realized I screwed up - at least in part - as soon as I saw what I had ordered, thanks for the guidance!
I'd recommend a charger with more output than 80W. The batteries OP has in cart is 11.1v @ 3000 mAh. Assuming you're charging at 1c (3A per battery), that is 33.3W required per battery (V * A = W), you can only charge 2.4 batteries at that full 1c charge rate, leaving no room for charging at 2C or charging 3 or more batteries at the full amperage (charging 3 of those batteries would be divvying up 80W over 3 batteries. 80W/3=26.67W per battery or ~0.8C charge rate per battery, pushing charge times well above an hour for 3 batteries). I'd recommend something with at least 200W output power allowing you to charge up to 6 of these batteries at 1C (200W / 6 batteries = 33.3W per battery -- i.e. 1C charge rate for 6 batteries simultaneously; note this number will change if the battery mAh or voltage changes). I have a HOBBYMATE SPEED H6 that has served me well. Granted it costs more money per W than the chargers you and OP linked, but to get the equivalent charging power from those chargers, I would have to buy 3 of them, taking up 3 wall outlets, and I would need to buy the necessary accessories (i.e. multiple balance boards) for each of the chargers, making the 200W output a better deal overall, assuming that you are not charging different battery types (for example if you have 4s batteries, 3s batteries, and 2s batteries, it might make more sense to buy 3 individual chargers because you can charge each battery type simultaneously whereas the H6 can only charge one battery type at a time because it's only got one channel).
Another good frame is the FPV Cycle Hammer.
As an aside to this, if you’re not running openTX, or for whatever reason don’t have telemetry, get a pack of Lipo voltage alarms. They’re light enough to stash on a quad, cheap enough to lose, and save a lot of headaches
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08J8831WN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_uDkXFbDHFSWGR
Yeah thanks, that's what I figured. I just ordered this M2/M3 assortment that'll be here tomorrow so I can try out different lengths.
Edit: ohh I just realized that doesn't include M2*7... those might not work. I'll look for another assortment. They're mostly counter-sunk style assortments, not many button heads or whatever you call them.
I almost ordered this one, but the other set is the same price for an assortment of m2 and m3. I don't mind that they're not black.
I have these batteries [Gaoneng 6pcs 300mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery FPV Battery 30C 3.8V with JST-PH 2.0 Powerwhoop Connector for Tiny Whoop Drone Blade Inductrix https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9RQNC3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O1WrDbY8XKR97] and this parallel board which is labeled 1S capable. I don't remember or at least I've don't know a 1cell battery with a balance lead. This is the parallel board I get for charge them with the Q6 Pro [ [US$9.49]XT30 1S-3S Plug Parallel Charging Board For IMAX B6 ISDT XT60 Plug Charger RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood.com https://banggood.app.link/4raIxP3OSY]
Nope, sorry lol. You don't want to remove the solder from the pads, just the component from the solder pads. You need a hot air gun to heat up all the pads at once (while avoiding hitting other components) and tweezers to then pluck it off while hot
This is an example of what you would need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRQX15Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R6ZwCbGMH8H5N
So far I have had good luck with the titanium screws sold on Amazon.
Ti is a bit weaker than steel, but much lighter. There is the possibility of stripping them if you over-tighten, and some screws may best be left with steel, but they are great for lightening the quad. Don't crank them down super hard and you should be fine.
M2(Not affiliate links)
You're local hardware store should carry some metric hardware, but they're not as easy to find in the US.
I've yet to find a hardware store that carries tiny metric screws. Micro quads use lots of M1 and M2 screws, maybe M3. it's the diameter or the rod before they use the die to thread it.
you can get assortments of small metric screws on Amazon or Ebay. they don't include every size, tho, so you might end up ordering a lot, say 50 pieces of M2x7 (7mm thread length) to get what you need. screw length for mounting motors and props is critical, you need enough threads engaged to hold, but not collide with the coils inside the motor.
Also, there's different head types. Flatheads are for counter-sunk holes where the surface must be flat, socket-cap for counter-bored holes and Button-top for most everything else.
Some solder irons have a set screw that holds the tip on. Be sure it very tight. I've had a problem in the past where the heat doesn't transfer to the tip efficiently.
Also -- After you get the solder moltant, copper braid works really well for removing the solder. https://www.amazon.com/Steren-400-168-Desoldering-Braid/dp/B004NEUII8
At this point I feel like I should just eat the cost/time and go through the RMA process to swap out all the parts, in order to actually achieve what I initially set out to do with this 6"
How does this look instead?
https://www.amazon.com/HGLRC-5-8GHZ-SWITCHABLE-Female-Connector/dp/B07CTKXF1H
https://www.getfpv.com/t-motor-f80-pro-1900kv-motor.html
Runcam split for FPV + HD recording - is there a recommendation here for small profile pcb? There are a bunch of different models, I'm not sure which is the latest/greatest and the cost difference seems pretty minimal (+$20?)
Also, this would be going with 4 arm mounted ESCs (what's recommended for 40-50a?)
I would be returning the Lumenier Alpha AIO, the VTX, and the motors
Some flexibility and margin of error / room to grow would be nice, so would this route open up the 6s option?
Buy a bag of XT60 connectors, both male and female. The reverb has mounting holes for your cam at the front. Thumb through rotor riots pictures and you'll see how it's mounted. Wire sleeves are nice, and look cool, but are far from necessary. Heat shrink, zip ties, and some double side foam tape is all you really need to secure everything. A couple feet of 14ga silicone wire is a good thing to have as well, you will probably need to wire up your XT60 on the quad.
Infinity 4s 1500mah 90c (70c version is fine too and a little cheaper), CNHL G+Plus 4s 1500mah 100c, Rotor Riot Practice 4s 1500mah 100c. All are good batteries. Since you are just starting out you dont need top of line racing batteries yet. Also, dont pay much attention to C ratings on batteries. As long as they are 70+ they'll work fine. Most manufacturers print ridiculous C ratings that they battery has no hope of ever hitting.
The ISDT D2 comes with a built in PSU but its 100w less than the Q6 plus. Just order something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANFJ26U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hEEyBb8998614 and a power cord and you can have it setup in 20 minutes. Get a parallel board as well so you can charge multiple batteries at once. Just MAKE SURE to read up on parallel charging first. As long as you do it correctly its safe.
I'm currently in the process of phasing out 4s for 6s as I totally prefer the way 6s feels. I have those motors on my 6s racer and they are awesome and very durable. Only downside is they are heavy (which I believe is what makes them so durable). Also if you go to 6s, those 24A ESC's should be just fine as higher voltage + lower Kv = less amp draw. My 6s racer with 5050 props never exceeds 85 amps. For 6s batteries you dont have aot of options but these are all good: Pulse 6s 1050mAh 75c (these dont come with connectors so order more xt60's), Pyrodrone 1250mAh 75c, Infinity 6s 1150mAh.
I would get a small quad (something like a hubsan x4) to get used to flying them. Even with all the hand holds on camera platforms it is really beneficial to have a little practice on something before hand.
Plus it's a ton of fun zooming around your house with little baby quads.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. That GPS was absolutely my mistake. Clicked the wrong listing on ebay. Already replaced it on an updated BOM. Definitely will mount it up and away from the electronics. Though the more I think on it I may just leave it off until i get used to normal flight.
I may still prefer the LEDs for orientation purposes. At least in the beginning. Theyre cheap enough. Same thing with the buzzer. My updated BOM has one that has the LEDs and Buzzer together.
This is the charger. Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs w/ LCD Display Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WLWcBb8SSM3YM seems to come with everything i need but I can get a beefier supply if you think its wise. Pics have the included one at 5 Amps.
Ill look into the making the smokestopper as well. Thaks again!
Awesome, will do. Do you know if the kit I picked out can support 4S batteries? I've read that your components need to be able to handle the extra current. I'll read up on the x6b receivers :). Also, what are your thoughts on the I6x? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/?coliid=I24XHKH2B0O5Y8&colid=3E2Q40NU5VK0A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
OK, so you're looking at a freestyle build - so your powertrain is not bad for a cheap freestyle setup, but it could be better.
First, the frame is expensive, the rest of the parts are not. Personally, I'd just get a basic Martian II frame if you're going to go with commodity parts. It's a cheap, durable, and good freestyle frame with lots of room. And you save over $75 that way.
Those motors are actually not bad - but I'd be wary of them being ripoffs. They look like the Aokfly 2206 that have some really good reviews. Are they Hypetrains? No, but again, the difference between a $14 motor and a $25 motor is not necessarily huge, especially if you're not as good as a member of the Rotor Riot crew.
Racerstar motors are crappy motors that I use in builds that are basically disposable. Racerstar ESCs are OK. But again, you can get a DALRC 4-in-1 with blheli_32 for the same price from a place like Race Day Quads. I would not pay $60 + shipping for those ESCs, that's highway robbery.
The flight controller: ugh. A generic FC is asking for trouble. Spend a couple of bucks more and get something like the DYS F4 V2 that will be much better.
You'll get much better bang for your buck buying outside of Amazon - Piroflip, GetFPV, or RaceDayQuads all have better selections of parts and the prices are comparable, or sometimes cheaper than what you can find on Amazon.
I've looked over a bunch of builds over at rotorbuilds. The trick for me is finding one that will take a runcam micro swift 2 and that is not mounted on top without protection. There doesn't look like a whole lot fit that bill.
I like the idea of a flyegg 100, but I will have to move down to a runcam nano, or do the frame mod.
Would it be worth it to get motors that support 2s & 3s packs, for more punchyness when I fly it?
Thanks for the reply. I think I'm going to buy this to use as my receiver. If my dx6i proves to be super problematic, I think i'll just buy a dx8. I'm just biased to spektrum just because I started out with them and feel pretty comfortable with their radios. As for more expensive vs cheaper motors, is there a huge disparity between them? Like between flight times, durability and speed. I know I shouldn't spend alot on my first quad because I'll have to replace it a bunch, but I also don't want to be dissatisfied by using cheaper motors. Thanks again.
If you're going with something like a raspberry Pi or an Arduino, start with something in the 350-450 range. A flame wheel clone is a great, cheap platform to start with as a base.
Hobbypower F450 ATF Quadcopter Frame Kit & X2212 980KV Brushless Motor & SimonK 30A ESC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RYYLPA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7NASzbXK4MWSD
Yes... I use the VR D2's and the only way I can focus on the screen (even if I could get my glasses in there) is to fasten in a Carson magnifier (removed from it's clip-on base, velcro-ed in for removal so my son can still fly with the goggles too).
For me I needed the +3.0 diopters or reading any of the HUD data was impossible... (is that 11.0 or 11.8v?? <squint... near crash>)
Well the power wire coming off my PDB and going to my vtx is 12v, my cameras operating voltage is 7-12 volts. I'm brand new to all this as you can probably tell, i bought a jjpro p200 RTF, broke the vtx and bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ485SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If the power coming from my pdb is 12v why couldn't i just make a Y joint on that wire coming off the pdb and put one end for the vtx and one for camera, both vtx and camera says can operate 7-12v or 7-24v. Or does splitting the wire like that into 2 mess up the voltage? sorry im not knowledgeable on this matter
I don't see camera specs above and im not familiar with what the 107d packs. I've got a couple versions of this guy that work really well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEGFK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IzMRybC33WXWG
Though you might want something wit a dipole antennae. But you'll want to make sure your receiver is compatible with those channels and you'll want to make sure the hubsan FC puts out the right voltage to power that cam.
The only requirement is a weight less than 500 grams. Right now all my parts (excluding the battery, motors, and props) total 360 grams. Here is a list of my parts and weight:
| Item | Quantity | Per Item Weight [g] | Total Item Weight[g] |
|---|---|---|---|
| Frame | 1 | 220 | 220 |
| ESC | 4 | 6.5 | 26 |
| Computer | 1 | 65 | 65 |
| Flight Controller | 1 | 16 | 16 |
| Camera | 2 | 3.4 | 6.8 |
| IR Sensor | 4 | 5.7 | 22.8 |
| Total | 356.6 |
This leaves me with a remaining weight of 143.4 grams for a battery, motors, and props. This is the frame I used. Based on this a 3s battery is just too heavy because they normally weigh 100 grams or more.
It's always worth buying the best tool you can afford unless it's single use. I have a decent weller that I've since replaced with a very decent Hakko.
This is a very nice iron that will serve you well: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1204
This is my older iron, served me well, the only reason I switched to the hakko is because I bought one for work and ended up liking it: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462577050&sr=8-1&keywords=weller
I'm happy to help! The people on here were awesome when I was just getting started so I'm glad to pay it forward. If you are not planning on flying FPV (First Person View) than the rest looks good! The charger I got is HERE and has worked great for me. The only issue is that is does not come with the power brick that goes from the wall to the charger, but instead comes with power cord that can be hooked to a 12V LeadAcid battery with two clips to power the charger. I would personally recommend going to a hobby shop and picking one out so that you can get exactly what you need (plus shopping locally is always good). That, or if someone else on here can recommend another charger/power adapter to go with this one since I am still a little new to all this myself. The only other thing I saw is that the battery you picked out comes with a XT60 connector to power your quad, but the kit you got appears to have a Deans connector for your PDB (power distribution board). You should pick some of THESE to solder to your PDB instead of the Deans connector so it will work with your battery. The item I linked comes with one male and one female connector. I used the same ones for my build and they have taken a beating but still work great :)
FWIW: Cheaper verson: http://www.amazon.com/22inch-Black-Tactical-Weatherproof-Equipment/dp/B00QPQLWO6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
I have one that I never use. I'd sell it if I didn't think shipping would make it a dumb idea.
Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it and it's helped a lot. I get the whole increase in mass, increase in wind resistance = higher load on engine (more work, more Amps). I wonder if it's directly proportionate. So on a 2204/1960kv with the DAL 5045 Tri-Blade Bullnose it pulls 22.97A at 100% throttle, if it were on a 2204/2300kv it would pull 26.95A~? (22.97/1960)=p and then p(2300).
Anyway, I've heard that starting with 4S could be difficult, why is that? Is it just the added complexity in not frying things with a 16.8v vs a 12.4v? All the parts I picked out are good up to 22v, from what I can tell. Or is it just harder to fly with the added power?
Also, I do have a few questions regarding battery choice. I've been doing my best in reading into Burst amps on ESCs and batteries and other chips, calculating max Amps, and C values and what not. But I'm no expert yet, so I'm not 100% in my choice in batteries. I'm not yet willing to shell out $48+ for Nano-tech ones, or other better battery companies. I chose this battery as a back up. According to what I've learned, my parts should be able to handle it. Can you fact check that?
The Burst on the ESCs are 25C, the Burst on this battery is 35C. So 35C(2.2)=77 and 25C(4)=100. So they can handle 100 max (for 10 seconds?) and the battery can only deliver 77? Do I have that right?
Thanks for the list! I just bought one Turnigy 3s to start out with.
Also, I feel kind of silly asking this but what do you mean by 'the attitudes'.
http://www.amazon.com/Matek-Power-Distribution-Quadcopter-Multicopter/dp/B018I3S3MC?ie=UTF8&keywords=matek%20pdb&qid=1461736223&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 i use that Power distribution board, its really nice can support multiple voltages and has voltage filtering built in, and i run the CC3D Revolution on my 5inch with Raceflight. Race flight is crazy responsive and fast. If you want to go with a F3 i really like the spracing(the one with out the barometer), I've also heard good about the SeriouslyDodo board as well, and for the esc you may want the littlebee 30's or the Dys xm20 or 30, theyre both faster than the lb20's, and not much more. also you may want to check out a 210 like this one http://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Carbon-Quadcopter-QAV210-QAV250/dp/B016ZZN6IQ/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461736493&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=crazyponie+210 (its a clone of the qav), i find the 210 to be a better size for 5 inch props
The flatter side should be the leading edge of your prop. They look upside down. Your props look like they're on in the right direction otherwise, the silver nuts are regular thread and the black are reverse thread, correct?
Get yourself a wrench, tighten them down. I have mine velcroed into my quad case for prop changes. You need to torque those things down. You might be bottoming out on those prop nuts, get yourself some nylocks here http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Nuts-Threads-Team-Losi/dp/B0006O2F9E
Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. I did a little research and apparently Chinese fakes are very common with this particular converter and they don't work with the legit drivers or windows 8/8.1/10.
I ordered a 2102 as well. Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8
You'll need a prop balancer no matter what. vibrations cause multirotors to fly poorly.
Blheli ESC seem to be more popular nowadays than SimonK. Pick an ESC that can handle your peak current, plus, some overhead. The bigger ones that can handle more power generally are only a few dollars extra and should be more durable.
I'd recommend getting ESC and motors that can run on 3S and 4S. Once you've been flying on 3S for a long time, going to 4S makes flying more fun and exciting because you've suddenly got more thrust!
I prefer carbon fiber for larger props. plastic will flex and flutter at high rpm, robbing you of thrust and increasing power usage.
The PDB i had chosen out is apparently not a good choice. Im going to go with the one you pointed out, thanks.
I'm adding the M3 screws to the list as well as the standoffs, thanks :)
I already have LED like these (without the remote), will they work? I have some velcro straps, all the sodering tools and plenty of wire and the such. I need to get the UBEC, thanks
one other thing, taht turnigy accucel 6 doesnt have a power supply. Do you have a link to a power supply, maybe on amazon, i dont really know what im looking for. I dont mind spending a little extra to get a charger people recomend.
As far as props, im going with Thebulkpropguy since it seems to be the cheapest.
Whats your opinion on this solder with this flux pen? Good setup for beginners? Also this drone will be the only time i ever solder really, so i dont want a huge spool
I would recommend getting the naze32 from multirotorjunkies: http://multirotorjunkies.com/products/funfly-naze-32-rev6
You get options with the pins (straight/right angle and soldered/unsoldered), and it's the latest revision rev6b. Earlier rev6 had issues binding satellite receivers, fwiw.
Also no reason wasting money for a prewired buzzer. You can get a 5 pack of buzzers for $4.11 on Amazon with Prime: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B0Q4KKO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
I got those buzzers and they work perfect wired up to the naze. You want to connect it to the naze vs the receiver. The naze lets you use it as a low voltage alarm, lost model buzzer, etc simultaneously. The only downside to using it as your voltage alarm is the naze only monitors total battery voltage versus monitoring individual cells.
I even have two of SPMVA1100 from Amazon coming in case I need more weight loss!
That's the one that folds right? I've checked out a few videos, I like them a lot.
http://www.amazon.com/ImmersionRC-Vortex-Race-Quad-350mW/dp/B00W8LPJ96
I feel like there is so much fragmentation in the parts etc, i have no idea what is "good" for motors, transmitter, etc. I think part of the fun of the hobby is learning (I'm a programmer by day, so it's fun being hands on with technology).
TBQH im not even sure what I'd be getting with this build, but their videos seem impressive
oh there are lots of ways you can build one. the question is should you build one? And if you did, would you know how to fly it safely? Building and learning to fly are separate challenges. that's why everyone is saying buy a small cheap one to learn on. there are lots of kits on amazon like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-Quadcopter-Folding-Multicopter-Multi-rotor/dp/B00DU4A4JK All you need to add is an RC radio, batteries and a charger. I'm not sure about flying back home with LiPO batteries though. If you are going to buy something be careful about the control board you buy. That has major implications on how the quad flies. you really want something that will enable you to dial back the settings so you can't get out of control. as you get better you can loosen things up. The DJI products limit your speed, yaw rate, roll etc with software in the controller. that's why they are good for learning on. I really suggest you do some reading on how quads work and what factors affect performance.
Can you really not get the stuff shipped in from China down in Argentina? If I where you I would go that route. If you walk into a hobby store (in Canada anyways) and try and buy this stuff you will pay at least twice as much as you would get it for online - if they even have it. I'm kind of in your boat in Canada- can't really buy the stuff locally. I just order form china and wait 4 weeks.
That pdb looks......interesting, if you're absolutely against soldering I guess it's ok but......soldering isn't so hard and a solder joint is much more reliable than a plug. You're going to be messing around with power again once you hook up fpv so consider going ahead and working on your solder skills now. The frame you picked actually has a pdb on the bottom panel for what it's worth.
That frame looks like a dji flamewheel clone, which the motors you picked were made for. It is more expensive but they sell it on amazon in kits and all that. The flamewheel is one of the most popular options out there, it's worth a look. I imagine side by side you'd be able to tell why it's more expensive but I don't know.
Anyways, here is a link to a kit with motors and escs for 190, you'd still need the kk board, transmitter, battery, and charger and you'd still have your pdb issue. Here is a link to a kit that comes with a naza m lite autopilot for 309. The naza would replace the kk board and give you autopilot and gps functionality, which is definitely something to think about if you're going to put expensive cameras in the air underneath.
Keep the XT60's. You will need to make more custom cables with xt30s and you risk overheating them with high current draw since they are so small. The batt's should come with 60's which is the standard that everyone uses.
Oh and by the way, the secret to making clean builds is to be able to crimp your own wires! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012EOO9Q0?keywords=dupont%20header&qid=1445387896&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 Use these to cut servo wire, or make your own servo wires. I would recommend the crimper tool if you dont have experience crimping by hand.
[edit] A crimper tool that works
Yeah, my plan was to buy twice, but I was thinking it would be cheaper the first time around. As far as budget goes I really don't know. I think I'm going to have to do some more research before I can say. I want to spend enough to get what I want, but I'm not even sure what I want now lol.
I went with this Hubsan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OV4VVU4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
this nano qx board has a spektrum receiver built in:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYHZOMQ
Here's a cool looking frame design that is designed for hubsan guts, but would probably work with that nano qx frame as well.
The AC/DC converter should work. + to + and - to - and you are good :)
Too large ESCs cost a little bit more and weight a little bit more, but it's really not a large issue. You can fly with the ones you have selected. No problem.
Again, not an expert in FCs, but I will try. Newer flight controllers have 32-bit processors handling more data and responding a bit faster. As opposed to the 8-bit KK2. In general the hardware is more up to date. I hear people here and on other forums talk very warmly about the FC "naze 32". It seem to me as the most popular modern FC for budget builds.
Liquid tape like this is nice for the exposed metal connectors. You might want the heat shrink tube you linked as well to cover wires if you are soldering them.
continuing my response...(was too long, had to break it up):
> HD Recording Camera- I’m on board with the Mobius. Quick question though- A few of my friends have GoPros and I love the quality and the fact that you can see a live (kinda) stream via wifi on your phone with the go pro app. Does the Mobius have an app for this or wifi features? I heard the Mobius also has more recording features, do you like it based on your experience?
As of this weekend, I kind of hate my mobius. I liked it at first...but it's just not capable enough at the speeds I'm flying. I'm going to get the $130 GoPro Hero basic, or a SJ-4000 (gopro knockoff, but very very capable and half the price at $70). Most likely I'll end up with the SJ-4000 from what I've seen in side by side tests.
> Soldering Iron- I havn’t solder’d in a couple of years. Do you have a suggestion for an iron or type of solder?
Yes, This. Hands down. Amazing iron and can be had at Frys Electronics for $69.99 regularly. Get 60/40 rosin core solder. DON'T FORGET ROSIN CORE FLUX TOO. Practice a bit before soldering your components.
>ESC programmer- Based on the ESC you recommended above (DYS SN20a), What type of ESC programmer would I get?
No Idea....I'd have to research a little bit but I'd get the BLHeli firmware on the SN20a ESCs for sure over Simonk
I think that should answer just about everything you asked. Let me know if you need clarification/more info! And most of all, welcome to the hobby :)
Ok
I have an AC/DC converter with me that converts the AC to 12V DC @4A with 48W. Is this good for the charger?
On the DX6i I'll look into those options.
Battery: I will get a stronger one
ESC - I'll look for a smaller amperage one, but the one I have chosen will work just cost more right, it won't fry anything? It just needs to be over the amperage draw from the motors is that correct?
FC - I was reading mine off an old guide. What is the difference between the old ones and the new ones, and which new one would you suggest?
And will these work to cover the connections?
Or you can get a discovery buzzer and a low voltage buzzer serperate. I have never used that screamy one, so I can't speak for it
This is the one I use and it works great.
Battery Charger: ORIGINAL SkyRC iMax B6 Super Multi Charger Balancer for Lithium (Li-po,), Ni-cd, Ni-mh, and Pb Battery
AC Adapter for charger: Adapter Supply Imax B6 Lipo Battery Balance Charger Us Plug+power Cord/power Cable (this does not come with the charger)
I started with 2200 and enjoyed the extra flight time. I would definitely switch to smaller in the future, but you are not going to start off flying like a crazy person, so I would say getting that extra flight time is worth it.
You are correct with the motors. You should have 2 ccw and 2 cw. But you can get all ccw, and flip two of the black wires on 2 of the motors, and they will spin cw. If this doesn't make sense or you have never heard this, let me know and I can sketch up some pictures or find a good video.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. I am happy to help
Looks like I am a little late to the game, but the Syma x5c is also a great starter. Thats what I used and you can take little videos with it!
No problem. And you don't have to use the exact parts/websites. There are plenty out there if one site has them out of stock. And I got the x5c because it has a little camera. The videos it takes are not that great, but its pretty fun for a beginner. If you are not interested in vidoes, I would look at the Hubsan x4. Its a little cheaper. I have never flown one, but they have great reviews
this frame would be suffecient.You can also add extensions so you can use larger props if needed/desired
http://www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-Multi-rotor-Hexacopter-Airframe-Integrated/dp/B00HHQWHGK
http://www.centuryheli.com/products/productdetail.htm?prtnm=CN2228B
Just a suggestion if you want a good frame with lots of online support/users.Good luck which ever way you decide to go.