What are /r/ploopy's favorite Products & Services?

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Got the nano yesterday and put it all together, working well! Unfortunately the nano and Corne are not integrated, really missing the setup I had with the Pimoroni + QMK with hold-key to scroll. So now it has a “scroll” mode and it acts as a mouse wheel for the ploopy.

Question: when assembling, I noticed some pads on the PCB on the other side under the microcontroller, are those hooked up to anything?

BTW, does anyone have experience with replacing the ploopy ball with something like a Perixx trackball? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08DD7ZDTG/ or is it too shiny?

removed the cone on the wheel to accomodate a 3x10x4mm bearing from amazon (Amazon) added that portion to the holder.

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made 2 versions of the holder:

v1 use with a 36mm long 3mm steel dowel

v2 all in one print in a stronger material that includes the dowel (testing this out in printed steel as well as in petg)

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couple issues I will have to check when the print comes in:

-tightness of the fit (bearing needs to be snug and not slip on either the shaft or the wheel).

- check to see if it fits the revD shell

I will post the files on my github fork once I have these printed and tested.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07D4PSB17/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3RMJZMAP3U4RK&psc=1

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would something like this work?

This was the one I got: (2 Pieces) PGN - 1-1/2" Inch Chrome Steel Bearing Balls - G25 Precision https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4PSB17/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WK55W0VWAK36DFR2AHGZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I think they sell them individually, the 2 pack just happened to be on sale when I got them.

Some of the shine needs to be taken off, but that only took me a couple of minutes. I went from the finest grit I had (3000) and kept going coarser until I was happy with the response of the sensor. I forgot where I stopped but it was still a pretty fine grit like 1200 or 800. Steel wool would probably work well too

Someone on here in a previous thread recommended some 6 dollar amazon steel balls which I thought were perfect for testing out different coatings. I applied some Oxo Blue cream based cold blue. This shit is nasty dude, you're gonna want a few layers of gloves and a mask.

Eventually the blue color settles down into a blue-black color (this is what they use to make guns look like that). The instructions also recommend taking a few passes with some 0 steel wool and reapplying. The coat is uneven but in a way I don't wholly dislike. Definitely gonna give it a few passes later.

So far it solves a huge problem which is lateral tracking with steel bearings on the ADNS-5050 that the Ploopy Nano uses. Along with the BTU mod, it tracks smooth and clean now. I also stripped the oil from the BTUs using ethyl alcohol and lubed them with a paste I made of Tribosys 3203 and Tungsten Disulfide powder and after working it in there the entire thing has a beautiful silky movement. Anyway give it a shot if you have struggled with making steel bearings work for you and don't mind handling corrosive chemicals.

Had it for months and the notchy / bumpy feeling never got better, only worse.

This is what I used on the bearings, it's a liquid : https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_4

This for the plastic case, it's a thick sticky grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-41160-Synthetic-Translucent/dp/B0083R1FME/ref=sr_1_6

> you don't take the bearing shields off at all?

Even when new the bearings have side to side play, so I figured there would be a little bit of play between those side shields and a week would be enough to get in.

3D Fuel 2.85 mm Pro PLA (PLA+) 3D Printing Filament, Made in USA with High Impact Strength & Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, 1 kg (2.2 lbs), PLA Spool in Bone White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L9NV1H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1A9TMKKXP124CSXKBGAE

I used the mighty mouse extensively in my photoshop classes, I absolutely hated every part of its ergonomics as did everyone else I talked to then but I can see how it'd be useful for video editing and music production. I've never needed an additional camera control in my CAD work but seeing as the Spacemouse has seen a lot of success I can see where there's a market for sure. In the case of the mighty mouse the ball was used for scrolling and not more precise mouse movements and also wasn't a part of the mouse you had to hold to keep it steady as you moved it so I have a hard time imagining using it with a larger, more protruding ball to place the cursor. This would probably be an issue for the thumb ball in particular as your thumb would both have to brace the mouse steady and hold the ball in place as the mouse moved which seems quite tiring. It also just seems like an awkward position to keep your thumb constantly tensed up in. There's a video somewhere out there made by a guy who placed a joystick on the right side of a gaming mouse and noting that it made it hard to aim the mouse with and hurt his hand after a while.

Funny enough Kensington and Fellowes both tried what you put in the first concept a while ago, I haven't used them at all but they're def worth a look. IIRC there's a forum.trackballs.eu post about the latter :)

karabiner can do lots of similar things. I'm not totally sure if it works to rebind a mouse into a keyboard shortcut, but you can bind a key or shortcut into a mouse click.

Update: This one worked perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4N9BBZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It can be cut easily, and it fits below the PCB. Just make sure to cut out room for the sensor optic to fit, and reapply the aluminum tape. It adds just enough weight to not push around the desk easily. Another can also be stuck onto the bottom for some additional weight.

Personally, I bought a pack of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M63KXKS

both for the ploopy stuff, but also for my tractyl manuform. It helps a LOT, IMO.

As well as more bearings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHSQX42/

It may be worth using the metal dowels, as they seem to work much better.

I picked these up for my reprints and they are almost identical. Not any cheaper but maybe more convenient.

Brilliant, thank you. Sorry for not finding the page myself, that’s what I getting too enthusiastic and not waiting for the actual ploopy :D

In case someone finds this thread in the future, I found these on Amazon and they seem to fit the specs: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00466Z9MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BVXXHN3FZF8H92A8WGD7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

these are a different brand but almost certainly the same oem