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If you do go with a bigger motor I'd try to get something with a longer can, it seems like you have some room there.
Other thoughts now that I'm not on my phone:
- A motor with a lower kv will spin slower for a given battery voltage, but will make more torque per amp (or the same torque with less amps) and might not run as hot.
- A motor with the same diameter but a longer can will have more copper to spread out/dissipate the heat.
- If the new motor has vents on the end of the can like your current one does, adding a blower fan to shove air through it can help. I have an old brushed boat that was cooking motors until I grabbed a spare fan from my 3d printer.
- You could also try adding a pump to the cooling circuit. With the current setup you're only getting water flow when the boat is moving, so if you're puttering around after ripping at full throttle the motor isn't cooling off much. With a pump you'll always have cooling flow, so you'll get way more cooling when you're going slower or stop.
For a 3 year old? Buy one of those 20 dollar 1s boats from walmart or target.
This but its not worth 32 bucks, maybe 20.
I use the ztw shark 40a - it's been good so far - I run a 2212 outrunner (unknown kv) on 3s and 4s
I don't know if you can get this shipped to Canada and end up cheaper than your Canada link, but maybe? https://www.amazon.com/ZTW-Shark-Bi-Direction-SBEC-Porject/dp/B08FTFM7C6/
Thanks for everyone's help, I decided to go with a water cooled 40A ESC.
Udi 009 - it has 390 size motor - it's $60 right now on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/2-4Ghz-RC-Racing-Electronic-Control/dp/B07FNJPYZQ/ but I bought one from goldwinghobby on eBay, currently $48- I came slowly from California - like a few weeks, but I did get it. None of the other boats on Amazon in the price range come with that size motor - the ones that advertise 370, which should be the same diameter as 390, but with a shorter can, are actually 270 motors, much smaller diameter, so not even close, or interchangeable - but that's a rant for another day🤣 - you can tell alot by the battery size that comes with the boat - if it has a 600, 800, or 1100 mah battery, best believe the motor is smaller than the boat that comes with a 1500mah - and the charger is actually the nicest of all the usb/balance connector chargers I have - looks quality like it won't burn down your house, lol, and 2amp instead of the usual 1 amp.
If you want to go to Banggood, they have the ft009 for $40 something, plus shipping, might go over/under 50 - that boat has a 540 motor, so even easier to overpower😉 but I don't know how the drivetrain holds up
It just over 50 but this is an excellent beginner boat in my opinion. Its quick, reliable and it can't capsize so there's not much to worry about.
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There are 2 boats I bought and can recommend - 1 at $60, and another at $100 - no matter how much you spend there is stuff you will want to upgrade. I'll have a $600 boat one day, but for now these 2 cheap boats are fun, and if he likes to modify, there are things he can improve
https://www.amazon.com/2-4Ghz-RC-Racing-Electronic-Control/dp/B07FNJPYZQ/
https://www.amazon.com/DEERC-Brushless-Control-Capsize-Function/dp/B09V7WLDT4/
Now the cheaper 1 I think is much better looking🤣 but if your man decides he wants more speed, the cheaper boat will be pretty much a "gut job" - the $100 boat he will be able to keep more, like the motor, possibly even the other electronics - and the drivetrain is sturdier/handle more power than the $60 boat.
Please post again with what you end up getting him and how he likes it!😁
Thanks for the recommendations! Question: Wet system is at least 4 times the price of JB Weld, for the smallest economical package. Is it worthwhile for this small crack in my case?
Doesn't take much to rough it up just enough to remove the sheen of the plastic , any two part epoxy that has plastic listed they sell at home Depot ,Lowe's this type will work https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-ClearWeld-Syringe-25mL/dp/B09C6R4VSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?crid=3R4CQ5ED3FJ6K&keywords=two+part+epoxy+for+plastic&qid=1655334206&sprefix=two+part+epixy++for+pla%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-10
Measure the hole. What size is it?
You could always drill the hole bigger if needed and use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Bumpers-Rubber-Grippers-Spacers/dp/B07TXYSYS3/
You could use something like this and cut off the excess:
https://www.amazon.com/Assorted-Sizes-Solid-Rubber-Stoppers/dp/B07MZJG3FC/
RGBZONE 6Pcs MG90S 9G Geared Micro Servo Motor for Remote Control Helicopter Airplane Boat Smart Robot Car Micro Robot https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07RQWV8SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HNJV5KF24FCPN921G74N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are them.
But I fear it’s not a servo issue and the new and old ones have the same amour of right movement.. barly none lol..
there will be a little Cricut board in that boat somewhere, could something be wrong with that maybe.. just very odd that both boats of identical type both developed this bad right turn issue..
Marine hull tape would work just fine and be removable. It will run in salt water but as with all things electronic it drastically shorten its lifespan. For something toy grade like this it may not even make it through a set of batteries. Stick to freshwater.
Not sure where you're located but there's no reason a 4mm x 100 mm shaft should take that long. Here's what you should get. I ordered a pack of these a while ago and they work fine with a 30A esc motor combo.
The ESC specified for yours is only 10 A so your shaft doesn't need to be super strong or precise.
The transmitter/receiver should work fine together, I don't have first-hand experience with either one but according to their specs, you have more than enough. The power for the reciever will be routed through the ESC from your batteries.
Good luck!
Looks like it just wants a simple 3S 2200mAh LiPo battery.
Then of course a lipo charger and I use this style charger.
https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-Accucel-6-Balancer-Charger-JST-XH/dp/B00T3RKONE
Use one of these. Dirt cheap, plugs into the balance tap, and beeps at a set cell voltage. I use them on all lithium rc packs that have balance taps.
5PCS 2in1 1-8s Lipo Battery Voltage Tester,RC Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm,Battery Monitor Checker Tester for 1-8s Lipo/Li-ion/LiMn/Li-Fe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08832NJ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3AFNKXKB0B5RH9QKVBAY
None of my boats run lipo. I just don't need the power nor do I need the light weight nature of lipo. Usually the opposite, I need more weight to get the boats low enough in the water and that's why some of my boats run old lead acid batteries. Lipo batteries are great for lots of things, and I run them in my truck but I just don't need them in the boats. That said, all my stuff is scale, not race or speed oriented.
One option for avoiding the low voltage cutout is using a non-lipo speed controller and putting a beeping voltage monitor on the balancing leads of a lipo. They are pretty loud so as soon as you hear it you just bring the boat in and stop.
Here is one of those beeping voltage monitors. This was just the first one on amazon. You can find the same thing anywhere under gobs of different brands and they all look about the same. I've seen them at hobby stores and hobby expo booths too.
It looks as if the transmitter may have some moisture damage, but you can try cleaning the corrosion (green stuff) out of the battery compartment area and see if that help. Corrosion won’t let current pass from the battery into the transmitter so that is the main problem you are looking at right now. The crystals only connect the transmitter and receiver on the same frequency. When you get the receiver and transmitter powered up and the esc and servo aren’t responding, then you may be looking at a bad crystal set. Also, if you don’t have any sentimental attachment to the transmitter, you can replace it with a very affordable option from Amazon. Here is the link……
FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Rubber sheet.
HULE EVEREST Neoprene Rubber Sheets Black, 8x8-Inch by 1/4 (Pack of 4), Gaskets DIY Material, Ideal for Domestic uses Where Protection is Required, Isolation, Useful for Supports, Furniture Leveling. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MMH78X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q3XYQ9EA7M48GH8V73M5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just ordered my sprint jet cant wait for it to come in. you cant run 3s but heres the brushless system i ordered for it. ill update you and let you know how it works. the guy who i saw had the 5400kv hopefully the 7200kv doesnt overheat to bad.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R238M1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_H6VJH7QVEDW3H3ABZKXC
Check this one's, they are a little bit smaller than the 600mah that come standard on my h102 and the mah is really accurate, plus they are cheaper that others https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08GSFYZLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_11TD9PXQYDDB1PJMMP5F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's a tube that the propeller shaft goes though. There's bearings at each end, and then the whole thing is filled with grease to form a watertight seal.
Something like this
https://smile.amazon.com/uxcell-Propeller-Universal-L130mm-Sleeve/dp/B07Q2ZG4YK
I'm not a boat person, so can't help with the hull. But as a whole, everything looks to be from about mid-1980s to me.
The nitro motor is an Enya .40. Nitro motors run on a semi-diesel principal and require a methanol fuel blend. The electrical panel on your box is for a starter and glow plug igniter to start the engine. There are likely boat-equivalents, but my go-to reference for glow motors is Dave Gierke's "2-Stroke Glow Engines for R/C Airplanes".
Basically your motor is the same as the 40 size airplane engine, except with a water-cooled head. They are tough little engines, and yours will likely run again. But it would be advisable to learn how to disassemble the engine, and give it a thorough cleaning and lubrication. If it is frozen/stuck, don't try to turn it over. A good start is to just remove the engine from the boat, and let it soak in a tub of something like Marvel Mystery Oil.
A lot of people claim nitro motors are unreliable. I disagree (been using them for 22 years). They are reliable, but just like everything have a learning curve, require a bit more thought and patience than electric, and are moderately less convenient than electric.
The old radio gear is likely perfectly functional. Futaba is/was a good reliable name. Servos from that era basically last forever. I fly airplanes with a 30 year old transmitter. The old systems use NiCd battery packs, yours are surely dead, and so you will need to get replacements. If you don't want to get new NiCds, you can generally find equivalent 2-cell and 3-cell LiFe packs as modern replacement upgrades.
I know this has been all over the place; it's hard to distill everything down to a few paragraphs. In summary: what you have can be made to work with a little bit of learning, material, and elbow grease...should you desire to do so.
Damn, thank you! It will take me some time to go through that because english isn't my first language but now I got something to work with.
Someone told me this might be a good fit, what do you think? https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-1275-20-Turn-Stinger-Motor/dp/B0006N6QIQ
Just buy an EC8 connector or pre wired converter from any hobby shop or amazon and just make your own adapter to whatever plug you need that matches your charger.
With a bit of searching I'm sure you could even find one that is 100% premade for whatever you need. Something like this: Big long amazon link hidden here
LiPo is the only way to go. I believe the charger is more important than the batteries. Spend the money for a good charger and your batteries will perform awesome and last forever.
I forked out $250 for a high end Thunder Power charger and I've been running the same 3 LiPo batteries through my Joysway Bullet for 3 years now. I'm at 75 cycles on each battery.
I'll have this charger forever, no matter how much I upgrade my boat or expand my fleet.