I could but they are all faulty and you will face problems like the controller wont detect in the software and then you need to reboot ur pc several times until it is detected...So ur fans will be stuck on rainbow mode with full RPM allways. Until you rebooted enough times to get it to work.
​
Also with the tax and shipping then i bet it will be cheaper for you to buy a pack of 3 fans from TT that has the cables and controllers incl.
​
Or you can buy these strips as the cheapest way to get a controller.
​
What exactly is it you want to controle ?
Two problems. I have two Theraltake products.
1) Temp Sensor: Thermaltake Pacific TF2 G1/4 Copper Core Construction TT RGB Plus Software Monitoring Celsius/Fahrenheit Temperature and Flow Indicator CL-W275-CU00SW-A
2) Controller: Thermaltake TT Sync SATA Powered 9 Port Addressable LED Controller TT Premium Edition (Compatible with ASUS Aura Sync, GIGABYTE RGB Fusion and MSI Mystic Light Sync) CL-O015-PL00BL-A,1 Pack
All fans are on full blast. Can see water flowing from tubes. The manual sensor is spinning. On startup, the temp and flow sensor register my flow to be ~220 L/Hr showing for about 5 seconds. Then the flow drops to zero, and an annoying beeping will never stop. Flow alarm is at the lowest it can be at 10 L / Hr. Can’t go any lower.
I figured I needed the Thermaltake controller to make it work, so I bought that, and my system can’t find the controller.
I used some c clamps with rubber on them that I bought at my local hardware store for the top fan, one of the extra included GPU brackets for the vertical fan behind the GPU (which blows air up the riser cable towards the motherboard), and these for the horizontal fan behind the GPU.
All fans are 120mm.
Hey everybody. I wanted to share this simple mod I did for my View 71 to improve airflow. I felt the glass was too close to the fans in front and on top for decent airflow. My coolant temps just were not where I wanted them to be. I used 1/2in spacers to increase the gap from case to glass. I saw a significant improvement in coolant temps on the order of at least a few degrees under full load. What you don’t see here is that I also installed some standoffs to the original case bushings, so that I could use the original thumbscrews. They are inside the spacers.
Spacers:
The Hillman Group 58595 Thick Heavy Duty Spacer, 3/8 x 3/4 x 1/2-Inch, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUFR82K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7V0P6XFDRMXAY6YJX01P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Standoffs: Small Parts 310806HMA Aluminum... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K35LV62?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PK23VC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I want to say I used the longest standoff + one of the smaller standoffs. It looked extreme at first, but once it's all said and done it doesn't look strange.
I had a 120mm cooler and had the same issue, the pc was not as cool as I would like it to be. So, I replaced it with a 280mm Floe DX and I am much happier with the temps. CPU gets to like 67 max.
Thermaltake Floe DX 280mm, Dual Ring LED, 16.8 Million Color Software Enabled (TT RGB Plus/Alexa/Razer Chroma), AMD (AM4)/Intel (LGA 2066/1200), AIO CPU Liquid Cooler CL-W257-PL14SW-B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCN8M3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GR897P8R779EQ0Q35XM2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>Solved: Buy this
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-2-Pack-Female-Dupont-Motherboard/dp/B06Y5C7DKH?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp
>
> then use a normal USB to microUSB to connect the controller. The original splitted cable is the problem.
Solved: Buy this https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-2-Pack-Female-Dupont-Motherboard/dp/B06Y5C7DKH?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp then use a normal USB to microUSB to connect the controller. The original splitted cable is the problem.
Edit your post, then go to the photo tab and upload to your original post, easiest way is with a tablet or phone with the app
Either that or go to a website like this and share the image via an upload/share service
Hmm, I'm wondering if you even need the splitter in this case. I think those fans are almost entirely controlled by Thermaltake's software. Also, their software is a bit of a pain in the ass, FYI. I found these ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVY3N55/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 to be much easier to work with. The TT software is always buggy and I could never get these fans to sync up with Amoury Crate.
The downside is I'm not sure if you can get a big enough aRGB splitter to split 21 fans, the Riing's may be the best option here.
Anyway, I would try it with the three controllers. I think all you need to is one cable to plug into the aRGB header from only one of the controllers.
So, i ordered 3 of these: Thermaltake TT Sync SATA Powered 9 Port Addressable LED Controller TT Premium Edition (Compatible with ASUS Aura Sync, GIGABYTE RGB Fusion and MSI Mystic Light Sync) CL-O015-PL00BL-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079FYL6LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YJBN8907RKZ23PY9B0FB
And one of this, so i can connect those 3 on this. Do you think it'll work?
novonest 5V 3Pin Addressable RGB 1 to 4 Splitter Cable,Y-Shaped Fan and Pc Led Strip Extension Cable,LED Strip and ARGB Fan Connector,Equipped with 4 Male pins,53ARGB(1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097JS75LV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HRP5VESNHTMX3X87A2T8
Hooked to this and then hooked into JRAINBOW1 on my MSI Z390 MB. Only have one aRGB slot on the MB too.
Thermalright Integrated ARGB Fan Hub, 10-Port 3 Pin PC Fan Controller, 5V Fan ARGB Hub, Support up to 10 Fans, SATA Power Cord Direct Input https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CH13K2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8RDW7M9YK165TM6WHYGR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Going to try to use the VDG connection for my fans and convert to RGB via this
LICHIFIT 5V 3PIN RGB VDG Conversion Line Cable Connector for GIGABYTE Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082MHMP79/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YSG85056W3T0X1YK080M
If it's really tight might have to bust out the locking pliers but if you just can't get a grip on it with your fingers simple channel lock pliers will work. In the future installing new fitting that you wish to protect the finish with while tightening down you can use a rag/microfiber towel or plastic ended pliers like these: https://smile.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Pliers-10-Inch-2-Piece-CMHT82547/dp/B07QN1PYYM
Not sure if a regular plumbing fitting has enough girth... I think they had a fair bit of ass mass... Sorta like one of these? Yellow Jacket 19037 Quick SealRight Coupler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW1YTD0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XBR86A2Y9B1Z7ER8C26G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
FYI - there's just enough space to fit a 80mm fan behind the HDD enclosure (slim fans fit with extra clearance). I've drastically reduced HDD temps from 50 degrees Celsius to 35-39 on load.
Read that temp where via software or added external temp sensors? You should download HW Monitor and then while gaming take a look at the cpu package temp and gpu temp max columns.
Did you look at the wires and end points? Could be just a loose wire or chafed insulation. It'll be easier wiring your own power switch(Something like this) rather than trying to get help from thermaltake.
This is the razer chroma 6 port ARGB controller https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Chroma-Addressable-Controller-Compatibility/dp/B08KC2VZ2V/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=razer+rgb+controller&qid=1629573256&sr=8-1
You need to buy 3pin ARGB cabling for anything you plug into it, but this will work with either fans if you want to chose a different controller+software package.
These are the cooler master rings https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterFan-Addressable-Independently-Controlled/dp/B082LRNQJG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=cooler+master+ARGB&qid=1629573162&sr=8-1
Comes with a simple push button controller, 60USD.
Or you could use it as an excuse to upgrade lol my core V71 case came with 3 fixed blue 200mm and I replaced them with these TT 200mm.
That's thermaltake only(proprietary) if you know which wires are 5v/signal/ground you just cut off the connector and splice into a standard 5v.
I ended up doing that with phantek/thermal take argb devices since I have over 13 of them from all different manufactures I'd go broke buying cables from each lol.
Do you currently have 5v argb fans? Or are they 12v rgb? I use this TT sync module to control my TT 200mm fans with synapse 3 software and my asus headphone stand.
I'm assuming you bought one like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Controller-3-Pin-Ports/dp/B08MTCSH55
If so the pre built in controller on your case has a output labeled M/B lighting that will go to the cooler master now. If your motherboard doesn't have a 5v argb then you need 9pin usb 2.0 controller so you can control argb thru the software side.
Did the case come with the thermaltake proprietary 4pin to pwm cable by chance? Look at this thermaltake controller that I used for my RGB use but also does PWM fans. Look at the 5th picture that's what you need to replace the cable you have going to SATA now it would go from your case controller to the motherboard pwm header. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079FYL6LM/
I have the Core P3 case and added the Bykski bracket to the front.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083S4GG32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inexpensive option if you can't find the original one.
You make a good point. That’s why I like these: Thermaltake Pure 12 ARGB 5V Motherboard Sync/Analog Controller 16.8 Million Colors 9 Addressable LEDs 120mm Hydraulic Bearing Case/Radiator Fan, 3 Pack CL-F079-PL12SW-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MVY3N55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NT13FZKEY8DPYT3HF2TK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This (Core p7) is heavy, but I found TV wall mounts (VESA compliant) that hold
77 and 88 pounds respectively (bought 2). They were both under $30 with tax.
here is one of them, perfect for mounting the Core series cases.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08865Q8Q8?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Imgur isn't working ATM- IDK about USB, mine was powered through SATA. I plugged it into the
It was a miss for me. The software didn't recognize the controller. I ended up using the standard headers used by Asus/MSI. Reinstalled RGB Fusion, so far the system is not going bonkers.
I wish Gigabyte would have specified which controller to use. Using the Gigabyte cable was causing too many problems mentioned above.
Phantek version designed to slide into existing horizontal slots: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MW73HTJ/
Also have your experimented with having 3 exhaust and 2 intakes? Some cases cool better closer to a negative pressure.
i did a little research, looks like some versions come without it.
i use this for my wife's PC but it is not super sturdy.(you'll get a bit of sag..
Have you tried emailing TT support?
Size #6-32 seems like the thread might want to try this type first just need the right length. I think 6.5mm might be cutting close with the added O-ring and 5mm glass. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MYHMB4X
You should measure your existing screws if you have any left that are the right size on the other panels.
This is mine ID-COOLING ZOOMFLOW 240X Snow CPU Water Cooler 5V Addressable RGB AIO Cooler 240mm CPU Liquid Cooler 2X120mm RGB Fan, Intel 115X/2066, AMD TR4/AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GLGJN5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_qvtTFb97Z2MH0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
its been a long time but if you havent figured this out you have a 90 degree riser cable you need a normal one like the thermaltake one or you need a new mounting bracket https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
it won't work with the standard TT rgb hub controller you get with fans, but it will work with the 9 port sync controller you can buy seperately. Make sure your motherboard has an (a)rgb header!
If you can't find the cables you can run the argb fan led cables directly to the motherboard but your front case led button work only in motherboard control. Since your motherboard only has 2 you'd need to buy these type of splitters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z122WPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_br8qFbS93HZ3Y
You can do the same when the fan headers for motor power too.
The 6 quads will hook into there own hubs that have their own fan and RGB control. For the rest just use 3 or 4 to 1 fan splitters https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Splitter-Sleeved-Extension/dp/B07FNQC63R/ref=asc_df_B07FNQC63R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242158345562&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10977180396480669882&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h...
The stated specifications for the stock fan are 130 CFM, 1 mm-H2O static pressure, and 29 dBA.
Your best bet would probably this (New Egg/Amazon) just doing a quick search. There are some cheaper ones from Cooler Master, Phanteks, etc. but they are louder, have LEDs, or weren't looked into by me.
As for switching to a 140mm, you would lose that upper limit of airflow which is usually around 80-90 CFM for that size. Most 200mm go above 100 CFM. So it all depends on your set up. Has the temperatures been okay with the stock 200mm fan running full speed while you're gaming?
Hope this helps!
That's one cool looking case just looked it up I think a simple vortex fan would resolve you cooling issues. I'd try this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BF3XYMQ
If it doesn't work Amazon is cool on returns too. Does the case get dusty easily?
Thermaltake TT Sync SATA Powered 9 Port Addressable LED Controller TT Premium Edition (Compatible with ASUS Aura Sync, GIGABYTE RGB Fusion and MSI Mystic Light Sync) CL-O015-PL00BL-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079FYL6LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CGoTDbXBTWHYC
This if you want to use your motherboards header to control them.
Their fans come with a controller for use with their own software.