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Added an additional 2 GoPower 190W solar panels to the factory setup over the weekend. Looking forward to getting a bit more off the grid this year and this should be an awesome setup for doing so.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C90ZTDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've bought two of these and been very happy.
Linenspa 3 Inch Gel Swirl Memory Foam Topper-Queen https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071Y8GR8C/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_8DSGP7PKJJKNJT7V42E4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Came here to say what u/dubie2003 said:
Check this one out though. There are a lot but this one has a lot of really solid reviews and you can't go wrong with Camco really... they make pretty good stuff. I will be purchasing one next month.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K87FR5C/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
You don’t need to spend $500 to get a quality WDH. I’ve been running this hitch for 2 years now. It’s absolutely amazing and I wouldn’t tow my 19ft camper without it!
Husky 32218 Center Line TS with Spring Bars - 800 lb. to 1,200 lb. Tongue Weight Capacity (2-5/16" Ball) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W919FL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7846BVH6J87AQ4V5Z9G9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Anderson levelers are great.
2-Pack Camper Leveler, Chock Kit | Andersen 3604 x2 | Less Than 5 Minutes to Level Your Camper or Trailer | Levelers for RV | Simply Drive On. Chock. Done. | Faster and Easier Than RV Leveling Blocks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FKTKK2BX3JV3GPWEBJ0V
Get the biggest deep cycle battery you can afford, preferably AGM. Make sure it's not a dual purpose or marine battery, it shouldn't have a CCA rating. Bigger battery boxes are pretty cheap and easy to install if necessary. As mentioned, you don't want to go below a 50% charge or battery life drops considerably. The best way to monitor this is with a dedicated battery monitor, but those aren't cheap. You can get by with a simple voltage meter like this and don't let volts get below 12.3 for AGM, 12.2 for regular flooded batteries.
Whatever you do will be an improvement over the cheap batteries the dealers install, and you can build on that as your needs and budget allow.
CoPilot GPS is our goto. It includes propane restricted roadways as well as customizable height and width information. Some other users reported it requires a ton of local storage for all the maps (we only use the limited areas we drive in).
I replaced all 4 of mine when I took ownership of our used trailer. One was broken and the other 3 were pretty crappy, so I just replaced them all. It looked to be an easy job since they were just held on by bolts. Sadly, the bolts didn't line up, but I was able to use 1 hole from the old ones. Still, I had to redrill that hole to a larger size, and drill another hole through the frame. That was easier said that done while laying on gravel at storage. At the end of the day, it didn't take me much more than an hour or so to change all 4 out, and the new ones are much much nicer.
These are the ones I bought.
If you have the lippert type that I'm seeing online, as long as it's bolted on, it should be pretty easy to swap out. Welded will be another story.
This one. Not as quiet as a Honda, as far as I can tell, but it's quiet enough. Also, comes with a remote control fob, so you can turn it on and off without going outside.
This one is on sale today, and it comes with a free furrion adapter (look under "promotions"). Everything I read about it looked good, I was just waiting to see if it went on sale for Prime day, which it did. Mine should get here tomorrow, and then I can see how it does.
We found a cutting board with raised feet on amazon that fits like a glove in our sunbeam stove.
Welcome to travel trailers! Its a fantastic way to get some camping and outdoor time in.
That said, your setup looks a bit unusual. No worriers - we've all learned things as we go. I still look around the campground at other peoples' setups for ideas when camping. I usually copy a few ideas every year.
As someone else pointed out, it looks like your tires are off the ground. You should be using those red leveling pads (or other blocking) under the tires to level the trailer. The trailer should be level side to side based upon the wheels alone. Then chock the wheels, disconnect from the hitch and use the tongue jack to level front to back. Once everything is level only then do you lower the stabilizer jacks (emphasis on 'stabilizer' - they are not intended to be used to level the trailer).
What are you using as wheel chocks? It looks like you might want to pick up a different set of them. The photos you posted about a month ago show your setup in a site but I don't see any wheel chocks in those photos at all. Something like the camco 44414 wheel chock works fine, just make sure they are tight against the wheels before you unhitch.
This will only do so much. There's not much pressure that actually makes it into the tank. Get yourself one of these wands and go through the top through the toilet. We have a black tank flusher and this wand is the only tool that will actually get your tank clean.
DOZYANT 12ft RV Propane Quick Connect Hose and Conversion Fitting for Blackstone 17inch and 22inch Table Top Griddle - 1/4 inch Safety Shutoff Valve & Male Full Flow Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHNKMND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RRMJHAG1MQGT8DBQF1VT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I plug this into my propane quick connect.
Ahh, the standard set of issues. As long as the main systems are good to go so are you. As far as things on the walls, this is a lifesaver... You are welcome in advance. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-MR77C-Swivel-Head-Riveter/dp/B0009XAQ8Y I got this one off a youtube video... It does a great job AND the rivets are not too hard to take out without destroying the luan. You can get a tool for that also... Measure twice. AND get a good sensitive stud finder... If you get lucky or the measurements work out screws work also but for anything else the rivets have a very good weight carrying capacity and are easy to use. I leave mine in the trailer.
Was pretty straightforward actually. Disconnected the batteries from the system and then just mapped out their placement, screwed them in with the supplied screws, covered the feet and screws with self leveling lap sealant, and wired them in parallel (Positive to Positive, Neg to Neg) with the supplied connectors.
Purchased a 6ft solar extension cord which I used to connect the 2 new panels to the existing one and then finished it all off going into the existing solar port on the roof. Tied the extension cable down with zip-ties to the AC unit along the path of the cable run. Alongside the solar install I also added a 2nd 12v AGM battery.
Was pulling about 8-9 Amps in good sunlight with the existing single panel. Continuously lost battery power slowly running the fridge lights and vent fan, nothing bad, but enough to be cautious of power usage.
Upon adding the 2 new panels, I am pulling about 15 Amps down with everything on and the inverter running and not losing charge (on a overcast day). So it seems to be working well. Need a good trip to really test the system, but that is coming up soon.
All said, probably took me 2-3 hours to do everything by myself. Oh, and having a nice tall a-frame ladder so that I did not have to try and haul the panels up the trailer ladder also helped a ton.
Extension cable:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TC1L1FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm towing a Springdale 260BH on a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Double Cab. There is a huge improvement in drivability when the tow mode is engaged (transmission setting). I also have the electronic brake controller set at 6.5 and a combo anti-sway + weight distribution system. Keeps everything level and steady going down the road. Lucky to get 10MPG, can go as low as 7 in hilly areas.
It works great.
You can run anything that’s not 120 powered. Your outlets, TVs, water heater, and air conditioning I believe will all run on 120. Your lights, furnace, water pump, and anything low voltage like 12 volts will run off battery power at any time you have battery juice.
Alternatively you can buy an inverter and tie it into your battery and then plug your rv into that with a 30>15 amp plug converter to run the other stuff all the time without generator or power. Obviously you’re going to chew through your batteries a lot quicker that way depending on usage. But that is an option.
Something like this, or larger/smaller depending on how much juice you wanna use. Krieger 2000 Watts Power Inverter 12V to 110V, Modified Sine Wave Car Inverter, Dual 110 Volt AC Outlets, DC to AC Converter with Installation Kit Included - MET Approved to UL and CSA Standards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MF4GD1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_YGTVFbD3NVF3K
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner. Husky dual brake. Here’s the link on Amazon . Husky 34715 Right Handed Adjustable Sway Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RCT0LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fDoeDbFQ4F0YX Had the ball welded to my hitch and trailer frame at an rv shop.
I have a pretty significant drop down ball mount and this WDH and sway set up
Eaz-Lift Elite Weight Distributing Hitch Kit, Includes Distribution Hitch, Sway Control and 2-5/16" Hitch Ball - 1,000 lbs Tongue Weight Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SB6S3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8o2bjcG1DLhwi
I have the same setup in my TT. I used a 47” bed rail that slides down for my infant. Link below. It if perfectly.
It’s a great setup and covers the entire opening. You just slide it down to get access. I also installed smoke maxxair covers for the vents and put a blackout film over the window in the bunk to darken it up for day naps too.
Just to be clear, your old solar still has the controller, correct?
The real question will be, what kind of plug is coming off your old controller?
That port is an SAE plug. And since it's Zamp, it's likely got the polarity reversed.
I use a renogy solar panel/controller, which uses AWG (separate male & female) plugs, so I bought this cable adapter to go to SAE
Do you happen to have a lawn/garden tractor? I bought one of these hitch adapters and now move my car trailer and camper (both around 2200 lbs) around easily with my lawn tractor.
Because of my limited storage area I need to use a Trailer Valet to jocky the TT into it's location. The propane tank mount is in the way of the location where I need to mount the bracket for the Trailer Valet to connect to the frame I'm not sure if it is possible to move the tank mount back and still be secure. So my thought is to remove the tank all together and use a hose extension to connect the tank and just set it next to the tongue if I want to use propane. I can just carry the tank and hose in the back of my truck and pull it out and hook up if necessary. I'm wondering if this hose on Amazon would simply hook up to the hose on the TT then to the bottle. https://www.amazon.com/DOZYANT-Extension-Pressure-Indicator-Appliances/dp/B078KS95DF/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
You’ll want to pick up a 7 pin truck side wiring harness (truck side comes with a door flap). The flat 4 will plug into this harness for lighting. Black and blue need to be run to the appropriate connections (battery and brake light connection (operates the electric brakes)). You can run the last wire for back up lights but that is the most common wire to ignore.
We added a memory foam topper on our murphy bed.
I used a 4 inch fence post cover for the sewer hose, since it didn't fit in the bumper with attachments on it. Cheaper than the premade add on options.
X-Chocks to use when we camp.
Tire table for added table space outside.
Replaced the included outdoor cooktop with a 22 inch blackstone.
Changed my spare tire to a goodyear endurance from the factory included castle rock, and added a 2nd spare since we have a dual axle.
Thanks for that. I think the seal on this one would be especially bad.
Is 'residential style' like with a water tank behind it, or like this Thetford (when I google 'residential style rv toilet'): https://www.amazon.ca/Thetford-Aqua-Magic-Residence-Toilet-Profile/dp/B00DPIVZGC
Or is there a way to make a 'trap' or improve the seal without changing the whole toilet?
You need a low pressure bbq to take advantage of your connection.
Your portable grill has a regulator, but your propane connection on the trailer is already regulated. So your grill is regulating regulated pressure and you end up with way too low pressure to run the grill.
You can remove the regulator off the grill, but RV pressure is 11" WC which is about 1/2psi. If your grill is meant for a higher pressure it still won't work.
Your other option is to add a propane connection before the regulator on the trailer and leaving the regulator on the grill. Something like this
We have duct in our trailer along with a roof vent in the bedroom, what i did was purchase a black fire fan (https://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-Rechargeable-BBM9112-Attachment-Adjustable/dp/B0973PGWHW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=250CFH7FM1GAT&keywords=blackfire+fan&qid=1660607711&sprefix=blackfire+%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-3), opened the roof vent in the bedroom, closed all the windows and pointed the fan up to exhaust the hot air… worked like a charm! Also, put your bathroom fan on exhaust mode to move more hot air out. This will help with the circulation.
Fan also can be used at night to move air around the cabin as well… best $60 spent yet! (Aside from the steak and beer!)
I'd do one of these at roof level exhausting from the bedroom toward the AC and one at the floor level toward the room if possible, though you can configure as you see fit. Even just one at roof level would probably get the job done. They run off USB power so it'll still need to run off an adapter but it would be an easy setup. I just think it would look a lot cleaner than chopping half your wall down and won't hurt your resale value.
If I'm reading the tow charts correctly, you have a max tonge weight of 760 lbs. You are likely at ot over that now. Trails "dry" tongue weight of 690lbs most likely does not include propane bottle nor batteries, plus ot doesn't include anything you add to it.
HEAVILY suggest you load the trailer like you are headed out on vacation and put the trailer hitch scale. I suspect you will find the tounge weight greatly exceeds the 750lb max tongue weight rating of your Jeep Gladiator.
This is the one Curt told me to get for my car. 2005 Honda civic DX special edition 2 door. It costs 100$ and I thought thats a lot so I wanted something cheaper. I went to NAPA they had their own NAPA brand one that they said is the same but it doesnt have the power converter cable or accessories to hook up to the battery.
Do I need that? I am literally just driving the trailer 2 minutes down the road once a week. The instructions for this NAPA one says if stop or turn is more than 2.1 amps I need a power converter. How do I know how many amps its using?
This is the one I got: https://hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-side/non-powered-taillight-converters/48895.html
Says NOTE: A heavy duty flasher may be needed to eliminate rapid flashing. DO NOT EXCEED 2.1 AMPS. PER STOP / TURN OUTPUT APPLICATIONS OF MORE THAN 2.1 AMPS. REQUIRE A POWER CONVERTER.
This is what I use. There's also a kit that includes a couple microfiber towels and a spray bottle for $10 more, but I think it's overpriced. You can get a spray bottle and microfiber towels for cheaper.
If you need this for the long term, you might consider upgrading the stairs on your RV to a set of “Solid Step” entry stairs for your rig. They are pricy though, which is why I haven’t upgraded mine yet. I might try one of these in the short term. It’s a stabilizer device for retractable steps. https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Stabilizer-Trailers-Motorhomes-2020109777/dp/B08TJ36TBL
Champions Inverter Generators seem to be a popular price vs capabilities choice.
The 4500 Watt Champion with remote and electric start seems to be a popular one. Currently is on sale on Amazon for cheaper than the manual pull start. It also has an rv style 30amp plug so no dog-bone adapters needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power-Equipment-200987-4500-Watt/dp/B08HGPR7BD
I have Honda Inverter generators (pair of 2300 watt) and really like them. However, I got lucky, my in laws gave them to me because they didn't use them anymore. If I had to pay for them I likely would not of paid the premium price for the Honda brand. I've had absolutely no complaints with the Honda Generators.
I also have a massive 9kwh DuroMax Inverter generator I use as a backup for my house, it thus far has been very reliable. They also make small inverter generators sized for RVs, with my experiance with the big one, I wouldn't hesitate to by a DuroMax for my RV either.
What are your power options? Are you hooked up? Or on battery?
I have 2 small fans that charge via USB that are really good at pushing air (and keeping bugs away).
I also have a tiny A/C swamp cooler kind of thing like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Vivibyan-Personal-Portable-Evaporative-Conditioner/dp/B09QBY58HM/ . The one that I have (it's not sold any more) actually uses a USB adapter for power (cable is USB to micro USB). So I could run it off of 12V if I wanted to. I use it every night in my home to cool off. But I live in a desert climate, and my trailer does not have moisture issues - two things that could mess you up.
If you are on full hookup and your existing A/Cs are not keeping up, you could try a portable A/C, but maybe put it on a different circuit if the outlets don't have enough amps.
Yes it needs to be auto-reset. You can not risk loosing your trailer brakes if a fuse blows.
Reese Pro 49903 Round Bar Weight Distribution Kit with Sway Control
Reese Pro 49903 Round Bar Weight Distribution Kit with Sway Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071XQ4V8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_P1wsXW8IIU9ol
Hell if I know anything about the brand but it was supposed to be closed to 100° and I didn’t feel like working lol. https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Electric-Trailer-3500lbs-Weatherproof/dp/B08DXNYKB3/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?crid=RAOFRD9QB8MG&keywords=electric+tongue+jack&qid=1653927763&sprefix=electric+tongue+%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-12
We got this one for xmas, it was ordered via amazon. We just installed it after finally de-winterizing last weekend. Haven't actually slept on it yet, but it did fold up fine attached to our murphy bed in our rockwood mini lite 2509s.
Husky 82022 Super Brute Electric Jack with Remote Control - 5000 lb. Capacity https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YSGOD1O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EP4QHF0HNDGA7DC0HMBX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have this one and am pleased with it. It's on a 5500lb trailer and seems to do fine, even putting the WDH bars on with my 700lb motorcycle in the back of my 3/4 ton cargo van.
Sure did. I just got a simple non-electric one, linked below. I did have to upgrade the toilet to a Dometic 310. The basic one that came with the camper (Dometic 300 I believe) has a plastic part on the back that doesn't allow any bidet attachment. That upgrade is worth it on its own too. The plastic one is trash.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MMHQX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
These are what I have. Make sure you take one of your apart and measure the shank/latch length.
FJM Security Combi-Cam 7850R-M-Black Combination Cam Lock, 7/8" Black Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048C8TCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJ7R81TVR5P8YC32EGSJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Lots of trailers have the tanks installed before the framing, so replacing them can be next to impossible. If you do you'd just use union fittings like these.
A rear camera of some sort is something I consider a necessity for the reasons you listed. I like to know what's around me. I'm not aware of any that will go through the screen on your dash.
We use this rear camera from Amazon on our GD Imagine 21BHE. I had to do a little messing around to mount it on the back of the rig and wire it up, but it works great for a fraction of the cost of a Furrion. The Furrion pre-wire is just a 12v power supply with a proprietary plug. I cut the plug off and wired this camera with some weatherproof connectors. Total time invested is less than an hour. I have an F-150 and mounted the monitor in the little storage area on the top of the dash. I like it. You can get it with 1 camera, but I have the spare in the camper for when the first inevitably breaks. 2 years going strong so far.....
I will note that there is a slight delay between the camera and the monitor. It's only a second or two, and it doesn't bother me, but it might be a big deal to others.
Almost all locks are worthless trash. From padlocks to hitch locks. Anyone that’s spent time with basic lock picking can have your security device beat in minutes.
That said, people that steal shit usually aren’t prepared and they go for the easy score. So while hitch locks can be defeated. It takes time and effort. I use a dumb Reese hitch lock I bought on Amazon to make me a little more inconvenient to steal from than the next guy: Reese Towpower 7014700 Tow 'N Store Lock Kit, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IH8PXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6C7EJ1ZRKHSD69F79EXB
Side sleeper here! We bought our camper last year, and after a week long trip, the mattress had to go. My thighs were aching. My husband is a back sleeper and had no issues, but I couldn't do it. We got a ZINUS memory foam short queen and it was a game changer! I don't know if you like memory foam, but if you do, it might work for you.
ZINUS 8 Inch Green Tea Cooling Gel Memory Foam Mattress / Cooling Gel Foam / Pressure Relieving / CertiPUR-US Certified / Bed-in-a-Box, Short Queen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M8KWW1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TGEWHP5S5XQ5DRP7HQ2F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are lots of dual camera with split screens to choose from. Wired or wireless. Amazon is your friend. Here’s one:
Wireless Backup Camera for RV HD 1080P,7 Inch DVR Monitor with Car/Truck Camera+RV Camera for Trailers,Motorhome 5th Wheel Infrared 2 Rear View Camera System with Adapter for Pre-wired RV Yakry Y23 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Z3LZ1QZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_D5ZQ1HKP8AYZDT9MP4AK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>What is the best typical household thing to use to cut said pipe?
it doesn't need to be perfect but the smoother the cut the easier it'll be to fit valve and elbow. you ought to be able to pick up a tubing cutter for under $10 at most big box stores
We bought this one. It is super comfotable, I mean super super confy. I love it. I'm a side sleeper and my hips and shoulders do not bottom out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M8JWGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Disconnecting the battery in storage is the right idea. You can make it easier on yourself by getting a disconnect switch. They're pretty cheap. Something like this (there's lots out there).
https://smile.amazon.com/Nilight-Waterproof-Disconnect-Isolator-Warranty/dp/B07T288VN8/
I cut a hole in the top of my plastic battery compartment/holder thing and installed this there, threw some silicone around it when I put it in and it's been great. Just flip the switch when you hitch up and let your TV start trickle charging the battery as you drive. It'll help with storing the battery as well since there's no parasitic draws.
Why not just change out your converter to a Victron that supports lithium and gel batteries?
We live on the beach, with sand everywhere, and our spot is gravel. These were expensive, but my 100lb lab cannot pull it out of the sand. It’s like weird sorcery or something. Not sure how it works. lol.
Reese Integrated Sway Control Weight Distribution Kit, 6,000 lbs. Capacity, Shank Included https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YLCKJLJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1GF7SB3M9G5N7C6HHXQE
Reese is a great brand.
Lots of people use RV trip wizard. But you have to prep lab everything in a computer first and then you can access them in an app. The app is CarPlay enabled which is great. I forget what it costs.
I used https://copilotgps.com/en-us/ last year $60 and it works through the app.
My parents sold their full timing rig last year and gave me their RV specific Garmin. So I am going to try that next year.
I think this one would be good. Fill it up to your hearts content.
Step2 Choo Choo Trailer | Add on seat for Choo Choo Wagon, Orange, 18 Months - 5 Years https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V4S4F4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KZRFDTHVFC1ZFK75MMAP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2018 Highlander XLE V6 AWD
Had a shop put the tow-hitch on with a proper 7-pin and brake controller.
I put in the airbags myself (AIR LIFT 60732 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit). These are for a Sienna but fit inside the coil springs. I keep 5 PSI in them at a minimum and towed with them at 15/20 PSI. You don't have to take the suspension off (just remove the tires). Just have to lift the flap that covers the rear springs and use an angle socket to remove the nut on the bump-stops. You can use pry bars to separate the springs enough to get them out but it's a bit of a bitch so be prepared to cuss. Once they were in, I ran the tubing up to the small flap in the back (not the brake light flaps). You can get fancy and mount an air gauge if you want but I only towed for the summer as we bought a truck in prep of a bigger trailer as we camp a lot with the kiddos.
Leisure Cords Trailer dogbone power cord plug adapter 30 amp male to 30 amp female locking connector with LED Power Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VVZHK6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_84J1GWWFCCMSC465XA7S
Maybe not "fun", but now I find it invaluable. A set of propane gauges that ping your tank and give very accurate readings to your phone. Best use of muh 85 camping bucks
AP Products 1212.13 024-1000 Tank Check LP with Monitor Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5RQI74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_82FDM16P168E5YFBFDB9
I bought this one on Amazon. When I bought it, you could add the Furrion adapter plate for free as a bundle. However, I finally got around to setting it up this weekend, and due to the shape of my camper (has a rear slide with a rain gutter rail just below the mount), I couldn't make the plate work. So I ended up mounting it right next to the furrion prewired outlet, and just ran the wire over to it and hid all the excess in the outlet. It's plug and play, and just requires that the tail lights are on. It works great and was a lot cheaper than the Furrion one.
Dealership unl3ss you know someone with one. As for when you get one be it RV, Trailer or 5th, you can get a wireless backup camera and monitor kit.
I bought a cheap kit for my 17' hybrid, 2 cams and monitor that takes and SD card and records. Supports 4 cameras should I feel like upgrading. Depending on length, you may want a better kit, or at minimal better antennas/remote antennas for better high speed transmission rates.
I use it for backup, and the 2nd came I put on the front overlooking my suburban and traffic. Worked great and Im very happy with it.
Heres a link.
This is what some folks on here recommended to me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPVO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just run an extension cord from the house and use a 15 amp to 30 amp dogbone adapter to get power to the camper. As others mentioned, you can't run your A/C this way, but you should be able to use just about everything else.
My travel trailer is parked in a space in my backyard, I use this dogbone adapter and this cord for now, with plans to have an electrician run a true 30 amp line for a pedestal out to my shed.
This keeps the batteries charged, lets us use everything but the A/C, and allows me to cool down the fridges a few days prior to leaving town. I usually toss a bag of ice in the freezer and put some ice blocks in the fridge to keep it cool while travelling opposed to running it on propane.
I run the factory 30ft 50 amp cord plugged into this 50ft 50 amp extension. I’ve ran one 15k air conditioner, electric hot water heater, microwave, etc without issues for a couple of years.
Valterra A10-5050EH Mighty Cord RV 50-Amp Extension Cord, 50 ft., Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ON29THQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P9YQEX4DH6H43H90GDQ1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No, that is the stock one.
I think Ive narrowed it down to this jensen link below. Hits all the marks, BT USB, CD/DVD. Im trying to shy away with a screen for lower power usage.
Sub $300 Amazon cool mattresses are an amazing upgrade.
This is our main bed. I prefer it to our multiple fancy $$$ mattresses at home.
Classic Brands Cool Gel Memory Foam 8-Inch Mattress | CertiPUR-US Certified | Bed-in-a-Box, Queen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWTJGDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SN4TT94902B0CJCTZ54P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These for the bunks, cut with a box cutter.
LUCID 5 Inch Memory Foam Low Profile-Cooling Gel Infusion-Hypoallergenic Bamboo Charcoal-Breathable Cover Bed Mattress Conventional, Full, WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082WNHF96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4XAM6CHM7VE50Y4FQVKY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Camco 22243 Drain Valve - 3/8" or 1/2" Male NPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLSN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P5EP4T4TS1YTJ1526VMB
I replaced mine a few weeks back. Some Teflon tape and super easy
I bought this. Cut off the old fitting slip on the shark bite and you’re done. And a nice little valve to drain it with. Make sure you buy the right size.
SharkBite 23036-0000LF 1/2" Ptc x 3/8" Compression Angle Stop Valve https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004XM5GE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R7EDFJ8XP52F9CRGQFV2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Flex-seal is shit. If it's a deal-breaker on the damage move on. You can repair that yourself with Roof Tape If the deal is a good deal you can maybe get some money off and do some repairs yourself. If the floor is squishy then its going to be a large project
This toddler fence was helpful when our kids were really young
While I have yet to install it since I pick-up my TT on Thursday, I have this mount in hand. It looks well made, and comes with a mount for the exterior near your connections. Seems like a great option to me, but time will tell.
CURT 51701 BetterWeigh Mobile Towing Scale with TowSense Technology (OBD2) Apple, Android Smartphones, Tongue Weight, GCW, Weight Distribution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081FTQCYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AD9R6SG1KNVMHXFS10P7
I’ve used this and it’s alright
Bought a tongue scale for race trailer, it was under $200 and made in the USA from Amazon.
Edit: link https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-1000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REJTGI#customerReviews
I’ve had the Anderson. It was... alright. I now own a bluox sway pro and I swear by it. The Anderson did its job but I would still get hit by sway every now and then and it would walk a bit.
With the blue ox I can feel the wind and the semi by the trailer stays right in line. I was haulin this weekend in 40 mph wind and 60 gusts. It didn’t care. Get the blue ox.
Blue Ox BXW1000 SWAYPRO Weight Distributing Hitch 1000lb Tongue Weight for Standard Coupler with Clamp-On Latches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GAO0A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QF3TGYCK4JRP428WKSBD
Ampper Battery Switch, 12-48 V Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (On/Off) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07413JWLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_1BGtGsX2HV6yw
I used this and broke the black/negative terminal. Mounted to side of battery box for easy access.
Worked great this FL winter while it was in storage for 2-3mo.
Found this in the end:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075DP3KV9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seems light, will try it out this summer.
This may be the right one. Measure the existing hole.
RV Camper Trailer Black Entry Door Handle Latch... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08942XTYG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_YR0N62CZT3EPDQAANJTX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
An L5-30 to rv, of course
Leisure Cords Trailer dogbone power cord plug adapter 30 amp male to 30 amp female locking connector with LED Power Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VVZHK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_WSfWFbP9Z1R2M
Planning on doing this in the spring. Make sure you can cover the old hole.
ParkPower 301ELRV 30A Power Inlet, White with Stainless Steel Trim https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E3V9R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_XjeWFbFEFEPE9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
ParkPower by Marinco 30 Amp 125V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QAC66I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_MkeWFb0NS37MN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get some "happy camper" tank powder from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S0LDME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8klKFb34ENHJB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
When you dump your tanks mix some.up in a bucket and dump about 2-5 gallons in each one. You can also add it during the use of the tanks. It stopped all the smells I was getting during use and standby when parked in my yard. Also cleaned off my tank sensors! Hope it helps!
Not saying to buy this one but something like this. They sell the pop up supports separately and you can provide your own shelf... https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Bench-collapsible-UV-Unfinished/dp/B01NAY04LG/ref=sr_1_155?dchild=1&keywords=rv+folding+shelf&qid=1600867974&sr=8-155
That's good to know - thanks for the info. I've figured out that I need a sway bar/weight distribution hitch. I found an Equal-i-zer that should work.
It has an A8 8HP75 transmission and 3.21 gear ratio. It has the tow package, too.
That should work, right?
I had heard good things about Viair and decided to get this one after buying my trailer.
I've used it numerous times to top off my trailer and truck tires but never had to fill a flat (crosses fingers that I don't have to) so far it's great seems quality built and nice compact with a carrying case keep it in my truck behind rear seats at all times just in case.
More detail please. When running off the battery it's unlikely you would ever get shocked as it's a DC system.
When plugged in at home I'm assuming AC shore power. If the metal is shocking you when you are plugged into AC power you probably have a Hot wire reversed with the ground or Neutral either in the outlet or in the camper.
You can pick up a simple electrical outlet checker (like this one from amazon) at any hardware store to make sure. I suspect you'll get one of the 2 red light condition back if you used this model.
Check the Outlet you are using to power your camper first. That specific outlet may be wired backwards. If that outlet is wired correctly then check the camper.
Edit: Just thought of this - if you are using a cord that completely disconnects from both the trailer and outlet is possible the cord itself is bad. Pretty rare, but its possible. Start at the power source (outlet) and check every connection until you get to the trailer. My bet is the outlet itself is wired wrong (easy mistake to make and most things you plug in will still function fine).