What are
/r/wisp's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/wisp:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/wisp:
Speedtest by Ookla
Snipboard
Calendly
VyOS
DNSFilter
Linode
MxToolBox
Udemy
Plex
BBC iPlayer
Alibaba.com
Help Desk Migration
Jet.com
Asterisk
Microsoft OneDrive
The most popular reviews in /r/wisp:
You could use something like this if you’re looking for a prebuilt solution. Plug it in the non-battery powered side so that you know if this goes offline, your electric grid connection is down.
You could do something more cheaply with a raspberry pi but that would be more labor intensive.
thanks for the suggestion, I will check it out, right now i'm considering this one:
I generally start with the following and build to suit.
MeanWell EDR-120-24 120W 24VDC power supply.
MeanWell DR-UPS40 24V UPS Module
For 48V power, either a Netonix DC switch or a MeanWell DDR-120B-48 (DIN rail buck converter).
There is also a MeanWell redundancy module for supplying power with two sources (two circuits, etc). Size your batteries accordingly.
You'll probably be looking at around 60W of power consumption (that's an educated WAG) so 24 Ah at 24V would be a minimum for 8 hrs run time.
this isn't the exact one. I'm not in the NOC to get it at the moment. but this is basically what it is. More expensive than i thought.
this works quite well for most situations. are you a wisp or just looking for a solution for a property?
I used a POE Injector and a 12V24Vto48VDCStepUp to power up a IP camera.
One more thing (because I’m a nerd and can’t help myself), if you end up using the Nanobeams and signal needs a little improvement, or you’re picking up WiFi interference, grab a couple of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ISO-BEAM-19-Isolator-Shield-Nano/dp/B01KYFY22W
We are very close to launch! I'm doing product demos here if you'd like to see what we have built so far:
calendly.com/ispapp-david/ispapp-demo-60m
We've received great feedback so far! For example a startup outdoor wireless equipment manufacturer that aims to revolutionize signal processing called ISPApp "impressive."
This is the terrain.
On the left of the orange, there are landline internet providers. To the right, there is nothing. Where I want to put the tower (family property), I'm trying to see if the local providers on the left of the orange want to run a line for my backhaul.
The red circle is the core that I want to service. There are 16 houses in that circle. There are some off to the right, but maybe something I try later.
As far as trees, where the tower will go, it will need to get above the tree line, but where the houses are on the other side of the road, foliage is minimal.
>https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/help/questions/playback-issues/outside-uk-message
Fuck that. This is why the Internet is standards based. The BBC is not adhering to the TCP/iP standard and is arbitrarily blocking traffic. When they break protocol they should incur 100% of the costs of that.
- Get yourself a massive NAS with at least Gigabit (probably 10Gbase) connectivity to your server
- Optimize all your media so that all the clients can play without transcoding (this is how netflix does it)
- I would say, stick with 720p or lower content to save on disk space.
- Get a lifetime plex pass (worth it)
- If you run your own DNS, set up plex.ispname.ke to resolve to your server
- Configure plex to not use authentication for users on the local network
- Get your clients to sign up for a free plex.tv account if they want to track their watching. Otherwise you will end up with a unusable plex landing page
If you do want to be able to do transcoding, get yourself a high end Nvidia Quadro GPU (as high as you can afford). A single High End Quadro can handle up to 30 transcodes simultaneously.
​
Look at plex tutorials on youtube
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Be very careful regarding the legal implications. If you put copyrighted content on here you will be liable for distribution of pirated content.
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Rust-Oleum 274232 Never Wet Multi Purpose Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4KO4EP/ Any hydrophobic paint should provide similar protection. Just note once you apply this you can’t paint the dish until you sand it off. So apply any paint colors prior to Neverwet. It also leaves a slight haze look, so it is not a clear coat.
I think the most popular and, as a result, the best ticketing systems nowadays are:
- Zendesk
- Freshdesk
- Jira Service Desk
- Salesforce Service Cloud
- Zoho Desk
- Intercom
- HubSpot Service Hub
- Samanage (Solarwinds)
- Help Scout
- Kayako
However, take into consideration that some of them are service desks, and some are help desks, which makes them a little bit different in kind of functionality they offer. So, you need to determine what features are obligatory for you in a ticketing system and then to try out the final options you pick during a free trial. Only then you'll know if the option is going to be helpful.
I have like of sight but unfortunately I don’t have the ability to nought the radios outside. The radios are inside at both ends. Photo of mounting below. Can a glass windows and some aluminium framing really make that big of a difference? Remember it doesn’t have to be full speed or anything. I’ll settle simply for a stable link with just 10 mbps of throughput. All we’re doing in this office is checking e-mails and some light web browsing.
https://snipboard.io/4AcGre.jpg
https://snipboard.io/f5cOtk.jpg
Unfortunately due to the nature of the setup, mounting it outside isn't easily possible, definitely not at the NSM5 end because it is a high rise and we can't get access to the roof (I tried) and there are no opening windows. Penetrating the building structure to get the cable for the NSM5 will get us into hot water.
Anyway, I played with it a little.
- Reduce the PBE & NSM5's TX power to Auto Calculate EiRP limit
- On reboot, I was getting only -70 signal
- I put the NSM5's tx power back to max and began backing it down 1 db at a time until I hit about -66
- I got the Output power down to 21 dBm - signal is around -66
- I then changed the channel width to 10 mhz - just to get that extra link stability
- I changed the "Data Rate Module" to "Alternative"
- I removed the egress limits. I am getting about 30 mbps DOWN and 17 mbps UP from the PBE (Station) side.
- I am not seeing packet loss / latency jumping when running these duplex speed tests, which was not the case before (That is why I had the egress limit set at 10 mbps).
So the connection does seem more stable, latency wise at least, while running throughput tests. The users will report back to me shortly.
A few things to start with.
Check your ip block to see if it’s on a blacklist.
https://mxtoolbox.com/blacklists.aspx
Make sure your provider has your organization listed as the WHOIS contact.
Have your provider check their IRR entries to make sure they are all correct.
How are your routing? Do you have your own ASN? Are you running BGP or just accepting a default route from your upstream?
Some of our customers use DNSFilter to deal with this issue. Such as blocking the 'illegal content' category for hotels, so they don't have to deal with DMCA takedown notices from their ISP.
(Disclosure: co-founder of DNSFilter)
If you’re basing everything on cost just stop right there. Your customers won’t have a good experience, and neither will you.
I’m really not sure you’ve actually looked at ubiquitis products when you’re throwing out statements that the tp link stuff is cheaper. The CPE 710 AP ypu mentioned is around $69msrp https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Transmission-Wireless-Injector-CPE710/dp/B08D71HC9L
A ubiquiti litebeam, the product tp-link ripped off, marked up and calls the CPE710 sells for $65msrp and is cheaper at distributors.
It sounds like you’re trying to base a business model off of someones backyard barn party wifi setup. I started an ISP, please trust me when I say, that reddit thread you linked is the WORST possible place to start taking advice from for a wisp. Never serve a customer on a residential wifi router’s radio/antennas, or a residential router whatsoever. If you want to start simple, get an RB2011 on ebay. That’ll be a decent and low cost router to start. Then use the poe injectors that come with the ubiquiti ptmp access points to provide poe to the AP.
I will reiterate. Watch the video I linked above. Look at ubiquitis product line. A proper PTMP Access Point starts at like $80, and the customer receivers start at $49. They make a $29 Aircube router and a $79 one. Mikrotik hap lineup is good too.
And do not expect to get the speeds published on the website. For any manufacturer.
Im also not a ubiquiti fanboy by any means, I’m just trying to give you the best set of gear to fit your bill. There are several other vendors like Cambium, Mimosa, etc but if cost is a problem those are nonstarters.
If you’re basing everything on cost just stop right there. Your customers won’t have a good experience, and neither will you.
I’m really not sure you’ve actually looked at ubiquitis products when you’re throwing out statements that the tp link stuff is cheaper. The CPE 710 AP ypu mentioned is around $69msrp https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Transmission-Wireless-Injector-CPE710/dp/B08D71HC9L I see you mentioned
This is very true. You need to ground to the electrical system somehow. Usually to the exterior of any electric panel will work just fine, or if you can verify that the ground system is grounded to water pipe, you can use that too on older construction houses.
think of it this way, you need to ground your equipment and mast to the same ground that the customers equipment is grounded to, so if you customers router and POE is grounded to the electrical ground, then your radio and mast needs to be as well. otherwise, differences in levels of power when something goes wrong will cause issues for one or all of the equipment involved.
If there is any EMT pipe, grounding strap running from the electrical panel to the grounding rods or water pipe that is already hooked into the grounding system (you need to verify this) used for the electrical system you can also ground to that, using something like this available at any electrical supply store or home depot will work fine.
so that you can identify equipment ground in the future, use bare copper wire or wire with green insulation
in order to verify that an equipment ground is working when using a houses electrical system in the US, take your multi meter, and hook one end to a hot wire, and the other end to the ground you are testing, you should get a voltage that matches the voltage when you hook from the hot to the neutral.
grounding/bonding is especially important for AP's and backhauls. make sure to use shielded cable for the run to the AP/backhaul and ground the surge suppressor to the equipment ground of the tower. Ground the radio to the tower as well.
Use LTO bases batts and dont blow power on heating unless you got grid. If you got a good insulated box it should take much above 30-40 watts of heating for a few hours to get the cells above 40. I've used these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074SXKPZL/ connected to this https://www.controlbyweb.com/webrelay/ for a few years. Now I dont heat and run LTO based cells that dont care about being frozen and still charge.
We've been using these to pretty good success.
Librenms is cool but only reports in Celsius which drives me nuts. It can monitor & alert for disk space, cpu, memory & much more.
As for temp & humidity probes / sensors I'm looking at these for a vacation home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773M6S95/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LFZOFbSFDDXE4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a 10 GB PoE switch that does multi gigabit.
So something like this should be fine for getting the ethernet connection inside?
I'm not too familiar with networks so i'm just double checking in case.
I bought this package:
They work really well, but they are probably not FCC compliant. HAM license rules and such. I am in a pretty rural area and if I hear any chatter when I have them on I change the channel.
There was also an AFMUG mailing list thread about this subject recently. Some really good information there on that list.
edit: added AFMUG