I use swingarm bobbins + rear spool motorcycle stand, plus using a little punctuation might help attract more people to post lol
The rear spool stand is better than a roller for my maintenance needs because it allows me to remove the rear wheel.
This looks like a decent product.
These are the headers I got. Apparently this seller is no longer selling them, but they are a dime a dozen. Pretty sure they're all from the same source. Just shop around. Prices varied and I think I lucked out and found them for $70 on sale.
Motorcycle Full Exhaust System... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831M4NKQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The slip-on you go with is up to you. Just make sure it's the correct diameter obviously. I found an unbranded carbon fiber one that looks like an SP project shorty on eBay.
I battled with this as well, but I will be buying LEDs from Amazon. My buddy got me hooked on them for my car and they are awesome. I’ll probably wait to install it on the bike just before spring, but I checked YouTube and they can be installed in the current headlight bucket; nothing more to do other than replace the bulb itself. It’s a low/high beam LED. And it’s only $40 a pair.
Hell if you wanna go halfsies with me that’d be cool — I asked the manufacturer and they only sell them in a two pack:
TECHMAX Mini H4 LED Headlight Bulb,10000Lm 4700Lux 6500K Cool White IP65 Extremely Bright 30mm Heatsink Base CREE Chips 9003 Hi/Lo Conversion Kit of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRVCBSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kg.0FbXMQQ6PM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here’s the link to them on amazon. They’ve got two pivot points so you could move them flush and there’s 0 vibration on them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7CPVSX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought these in black, but they have them in silver too. They go on top of the plate that’s already there. I liked how they turned out a lot.
Yeah you need to use a 4pib to obd2 cable and then any obd2 reader tool, then you can clear the code with the tool. Otherwise just ask a Yamaha dealer to clear it for you. The cable should be similar to this
The obd2 reader I used was: https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A&ved=2ahUKEwjMh8LbuoT8AhUhADQIHX-aCWYQFnoECAwQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2DbRrPebZ0Wsij_I1qnaUz
I had a similar thing with the 2018 XSR 900 I bought - the seller said he thinks it was from spinning the rear wheel when the front wheel doesn't spin yet TC is on (lube the chain while the bike is on a stand).
You can reset the code with a car OBD/app and an adapter.
I reset the code before the test ride and it never came back on.
You don’t have to go to a dealer. If you have a code reader, just buy this adapter and clear it. If you don’t have one, you can borrow one for free from most auto parts stores. The adapter is only $10 and it’ll save you that much money the very first time you use it.
Might've been this one actually "Amazon.com: Motorcycle Windshield Windscreen Compatible for Triumph Bonneville 2001-2017,T100 2003-2017(Black) : Automotive" https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Windshield-Windscreen-Compatible-Bonneville/dp/B07X7LFYJ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?crid=3N2GLF3EXSQXW&keywords=xsr900+fly+screen&qid=1659097229&sprefix=xsr900+fly+screen%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-13
Using the Motodemic side brackets, some really nice Rizoma signals with white running lights, the RPMcarbon headlight bucket, a headlight adaptor, and the light itself being from Amazon is the only cheap part lol
I don't know the exact brand since I was lucky enough to buy the bike with it already installed. But it looks like this:
Yamaha XSR 900 Fender Eliminator - Tucked - New Rage Cycles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5FGDLF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_84HFN88CVQW3CANS0803
The stock seat looks amazing but it’s not comfortable at all, I advise you to do not change it, just bought your self one of these and you will thank me later 👇🏼
Motorcycle Seat Cushion Air Cooling 3D Mesh
Also don’t forget to buy this for long rides 👇🏼
SUP-LIGHT 5 3/4" 5.75 Inch Motorcycle LED Headlight Compatible with Dyna Sportster Iron 883 Street BOB Low Rider Super Wide Headlamps with Round Projector Driving Light -Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8GP9QX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XK712VXFDBA4VN1Y700N
Thank you. And it's a cheap one off Amazon. I don't ride at night so it is 100% about the looks.
You can get a cheap OBD2 adaptor for the bike and then a Bluetooth scanner and then get an app for your phone, like torque to read the codes. Links blow. The scanner is also nice to have for other vehicles.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083JTPVWB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
YONHAN Motorcycle USB Charger SAE to USB Adapter, Total 36W Dual USB Type C PD & Quick Charge 3.0 with Voltmeter & ON/Off Switch, 3 Install Options, for Smart Phone Tablet GPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CGQDXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VT15EMACGWJK2Y3H0KA2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don’t normally go cheap on these things, but took a risk on these Amazon mirrors. I’ve been using them for a couple years now and have no complaints at all.
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Universal-Motorcycle-Mirrors-Kawasaki/dp/B07FCCJR87
Yeah, thats one of my concerns. Been thinking about giving these a try: https://www.amazon.com/Pacsafe-Backpack-Protector-Silver-Size/dp/B000FGVFP8/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=103198NQX5AIB&dchild=1&keywords=pacsafe&qid=1623186459&sprefix=pacsafe%2Caps%2C1051&sr=8-2
I'm using these and I'm happy with them. I think Yamaha officially makes a plastic plug for them too, not sure about the part number though.
Edit: If you're looking for a mount for a camera or phone I'm not sure. I call 'em mirror holes but I'm simple folk.
This is the Amazon page I was refering to, it is in German but if you manage to click on the stars for review one guy postet pics. There you see how it looks: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B079MBQ6GK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_SV6S30J4TWJK3D93CX2V
The Motodemic one is exactly the same as they also get it from Dart. Hope this helps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4MG0YT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_khVXFbHFYMJSS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the one I bought, just $26. It's fairly sensitive and goes off every time I remove my cover if I forget to unlock it first.
Sounds like you have a pretty firm grasp of the pros and cons of alarm systems like these.
Typically, I recommend against trickle chargers anyway since they are fairly primitive and can damage batteries through overcharging and sulfation build-up.
If anything I'd recommend getting a battery charger like this one: link
You can always yank the battery out of the bike and put a good healthy charge on it occasionally which seems to do a hell of a lot more for battery life than any wall-wart tender I've ever seen.
If I were in your shoes I'd consider buying the alarm system to help me sleep better at night BUT also be ready to rip that sucker out if it causes too many headaches.
So the coat I did isn’t necessarily a “professional” ceramic coat. It’s a spray that turtle wax makes that has the same sorts of sealants. The sealants In a ceramic spray are said to be a lot harder than just wax, and it’s supposed to last up to a year. To do a ceramic coating you first need to remove all contaminants from the paint. So I first polished it with a compound that leaves no residue, followed by a diluted degreaser soap bath to remove any oils. You know the tank is clean when water doesn’t bead up anymore.
Applying it is super easy and anyone can do it. It’s really only the prep that may be a little time consuming. The end result compared to before is a very wet looking wax that’s probability twice as smooth to the touch. Only time will tell how long it’ll last.
The whole reason I bought this specific sealant is because of the project farms video on ceramic spray coatings. I highly recommend it, he provides an unbiased and detailed comparison of each products’ performance; all with quantifiable tests.
Here’s the video on the different products
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYPS3PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ukPQFb17S43RM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 cop
And that’s the one that performed the best out of all, which is the one I used.
$35 Rizoma knockoffs from Amazon (The one labeled 'Square Bar End Mirror)
They really are really good so far especially considering the money spent on them. They have a great perspective and don't vibrate at speed. They also match the blue nicely.
Cheap ones from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S21FV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're... OK. Not convex lenses, and they have a weird blue tint that's supposed to cut down glare. They clamp directly onto the factory bar end weights though, which is nice. I actually just replaced them with some different ones that are convex and can be folded.
I'm pretty sure you can get plastic caps for a nickel that wouldn't it perfectly and look great and stay in without nearly as much effort.
I didn't measure the tube but something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/pcs-Round-tubing-Black-Plastic/dp/B07KYLSQK4
Lowes sells them for a dollar each and they're in-store.
Also, I got a set of the inner bags for $100, but it turned out that the seller for some reason included the bags in the purchase without advertising that he would, so now I have 4 and only want 2. I can return the other 2 but I have to pay shipping and a restocking fee and so it's not really worth it, so I was thinking about selling them for cheap, in the event you happen to want them.
just Get these link
The quality is great and they are stable to see through. Plus they clamp on the the stock bar ends. Easiest solution and you don't have to spend $100+ even though they feel like it. Good mirrors don't have to be expensive.
The problem isn't using a torque wrench, it's that you're tightening the filter via the nut, which is not designed to take any significant torque. Using a torque wrench is great - but you need to be using an oil filter socket so that you do not tighten the nut, but the filter body itself.
K&N oil filters are not designed for the nut to be tightened. Tightening to the torque spec via the nut on a K&N oil filter can really easily damage the nut itself, which can cause a leak or the filter can fail while riding. K&N filters are being banned on tracks because this is so common. This isn't a safety sally call out - it's a common mistake to tighten K&N filters via the nut so I think it's really important to explain it.
Remember guys! K&N oil filters have a nut on top, and it's ONLY to be used for removal. Never installation! It will damage the filter. Check the filter's manual for more info if needed.
Ok guys this is really important - don't tighten your oil filter with a wrench/socket. The nut on the K&N filter is meant for removal only. This is why they're being banned on tracks. If you want to torque an oil filter onto the bike, you need to do it with an oil filter socket
Thanks man. Here's the mirrors Amazon
They're fantastic. Have held steady at 130+ mph so far and clamp on the the stock bar ends. The Womet Tech bar end sliders have a notch that's perfect for them too. The position that it's in somehow gives a perfect rear view also.
Be aware that I did break the left one by over tightening it, that's on me though. For the price they really can't be beat.
Don't have any pics handy, but...
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-HURRICANE-Swallow-MT-09-only-HB0294B-10/dp/B0171PT96W
Don't order from amazon though. They're half that price if you go through japan.webike.net They really are perfect for me and I commute almost daily on the xsr.
Guessin they're these.
Just over the $20 with shipping but honestly I'm not sure what the big difference between the chinesium and asv/crg. Guessing ASV replacement is nice but if you aren't tracking (doubt too many trackdays for the XSR) I don't think there's a point. Also can't stand the branding of both all over their shit but I don't have first hand experience with anything besides the stock levers so my opinion is probably worthless.