But you have to keep in mind... Apple is often wrong about how much RAM your Mac can hold.
For instance, every piece of Apple documentation will tell you my Macbook can only use 4GB of RAM. But I have a 4GB and 2GB stick in it working just fine.
For real RAM maximums... check Mactracker.
tl;dr get the 15-inch MBP if you can spring for it:
The 13-inch MacBook Pro is basically a slightly more powerful MacBook Air with a retina display on it, but I would not consider it an adequate tool for video work if you can afford to get the 15-inch MBP.
Sources: Mactracker (great for comparing CPU benchmarks between Macs), PassMark, and my experiences as a video editor working primarily on a 2014 15-inch MBP.
Feel free to ask if you want me to help clarify anything!
10.6 and 10.7 no longer receive security updates, so I'd say yes, they're too old. Check out http://www.mactracker.ca/ and see what it says for the serial number and what's the latest version of the OS you can put on there.
> I would not be surprised if some of the info in the Wiki pages OP references was lifted from OWC. Show them some love!
As much as I appreciate OWC, I suspect a lot of the data from the Wikipedia Mac page actually comes from Mactracker, the best Mac tech spec reference tool around, not OWC.
The next time you search for an ipsw file, do it by model number. In your case, that would be iPod4,1 You can get the exact model number for any Apple device ever made by downloading the Apple tech spec bible known as MacTracker. It's free and there's even an iOS version, also free.
Consequently, your google query should have looked like this: iPod4,1 iOS 5.0.1 ipsw
You'll find the link you need (it works, I tried) at the bottom of this page.
Enjoy!
Since no one mentioned it, the free program Mactracker has an insane amount of information about every mac ever made in a super handy and easy to use format. It's available on mac and iPhone. For memory it tells you what Apple calls the max and what the actual max is. I use is as a quick reference all of the time when helping friends or upgrading my own stuff.
On pure horsepower, the new Mac mini with the Ivy Bridge chip gets better bench ratings in the Primate Labs Geekbench 2 test (8362 v 10784). However, the used 3.1 GHz 4 core Sandy Bridge machine will probably come with a 1 or 2 GB Radeon HD6970 which will rent out some additional horsepower to most every task assuming that Mavericks is the OS. The mini will come with Intel HD 4000 integrated GPU so it will be sufficient to run at the rated 2560x1600 (thunderbolt) display with a second "HD" monitor at 1920x1200 but not much more.
So the iMac would be better for gaming and have the grunt for big tasks. The mini would be good enough for everything but not outstanding anywhere. Both will write papers, check reddit and Facebook easily. And both will play some time wasters and let you compile big videos and math-stuffs sufficiently.
Just to be clear, you know that the mini takes PC3-12800 (1600 MHz) DDR3 RAM and the iMac takes PC3-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 right? Also, the mini can only take 16GB (2x8) and the iMac can take 32GB (4x8)—I only mention this in case you're into RAM sitting idle. It isn't really "the same RAM" in case you've already got the sticks in hand…
But you already knew all that that since you've compared the models in Mactracker and read the benchmark testing. Maybe you could describe what you want to do with your computer and /r/applehelp can give you more useful information.
MacTracker is a wonderful resource for all Apple products.
Depending on the MacBook you have (5 versions of the Black MB were produced from May '06- October '08) they'll have different specs. For some, the maximum OS is 10.6.8, but you said you have 10.7.5, which for even the newest black MacBook is the maximum OS you can install.
Download MacTracker (OS X or iOS) and check everything out about your Mac.
well a SCSI Cable wouldn't connect the monitor to the tower.
According to MacTracker (http://www.mactracker.ca/), the 7500 had a DB-15 port, which is traditional old VGA, so it would connect to any VGA monitor just fine. Most Macs before this point used their own specialty ports, but the 7500 was a high-end machine, and allowed for the use of Windows monitors. Most monitors sold in stores today should hook up just fine, if not looking kinda lousy (the card in this machine allowed for, I think, 800x600 max resolution... a veritable landscape then, but tiny now.)
Now if you mean connecting the SCSI ZipDrive to the tower... well there's the rub. The cable to connect a SCSI Zip Drive to this machine isn't hard or rare - though they're not usually sold in stores anymore, they're perfectly available online.
However, Zip Disks are notoriously fickle and prone to failure at any time for any reason. They had a famous error, the Click of Death (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Click_of_death), and I can't think disks after nearly 15 years would have a good chance of being viable.
So just a heads up: there's a more then reasonable chance that even if you get the machine running, the media might not be readable.
If you need VGA or SCSI Cables, try http://www.cablestogo.com/
Edit: my brother suggested one other idea: go to eBay or Google Shopping and look for a USB version of the Iomega Zip drive (either 100 or 250 - the 250 is backwards compatible to the 100 disks) and open it up on a modern computer. These drives are less likely to experience the Click of Death issues, and you won't need to try and resurrect this old clunker of a computer. However, you still have the probable data degradation issues. If you do get your files off, back them up to Optical Media ASAP. :-)
Well, if you want to know which OS most likely came with it when it was shipped (though this might have changed if it were purchased when a new os shipped during a cycle) then open up System Information and in the Hardware section, check the value for Model Identifier – In my case MacBookPro11,3. Then, go grab an app called Mactracker ( it's free, but you should donate because it's awesome: http://www.mactracker.ca ) and find the model that model that matches your identifier. In my case: Notebooks -> MacBook Pro -> MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2014) -- and when I double check that, in the General tab I can see the model identifiers that match my machine. In the Software tab, I can see Original OS – in my case 10.9.4 (13E28).
For the record, Mactracker (free) states the native capacity for the battery of every Mac model ever made (those with batteries, obviously). The data is stated in W/Hr. and can be found in the "Connections" tab. Hope this helps.
green is good news, power supply should be fine (though I would keep it connected to AC).
You cannot boot a G4 with Linux (OS X or OS 9 only depending how old it is, use mactracker [http://www.mactracker.ca] to find out the specs of your machine and what OS can be run)
Once you found the exact model you got, you can create a USB stick to boot or use another Mac in FireWire mode to use as start-up drive. Use this service manual to perform the same troubleshooting that an Apple Tech would perform to reach a diagnosis: http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/powerbook/pbg4_17in.pdf
According to a program I use called MacTracker (http://www.mactracker.ca) You need 204-pin PC3-12800 (1600 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM memory.
So you will want to buy two 4GB sticks of that type of memory. Although you can technically go up to 16GB, OS X can only utilize 8GBs. Any brand should be fine. Look for what's popular/has good reviews on a site like newegg.com. Just make absolutely sure you are getting the right type of RAM.
As for doing the RAM replacement, it's fairly straightforward. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Unibody+Model+A1278+RAM+Replacement/757
The best tool for finding specs of any Mac is MacTracker.
MacTracker says your iMac has four memory slots, maxes out at 32GB, and uses: 204-pin PC3-8500 (1066 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM
My go-to place for purchasing reliable RAM is OWC.
Here is their page for RAM for your machine: http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/iMac/DDR3_21.5_27
If I were you, I'd upgrade to 16GB instead of 8GB. You'll get better performance, especially if you're going to be running 10.9 or 10.10 on this machine. I'm contemplating an SSD upgrade for my 2010 iMac at home because the rotational HD just isn't cutting it anymore. OWC has these upgrade kits as well.
As far as I know, you can install pretty much any drive you want in your MBP, as long as you use the same type (SATA, in your case). Because of overheating issues however, you might not want to get a very large 7200 rpm drive. An SSD would be a good choice, since it would give you a snappier machine as far as everyday ouse goes.
Once you've physically installed the drive, boot the Mac with a CD/DVD/USB drive with the OSX installer, format the drive using Disk Utility, then install OSX on it and be on your way.
After OSX is properly installed, you'll be prompted after it boots to import data from a previous Mac should you so choose.
Let us know if you have other questions. Also, you can download the free Mactracker application (Mac/iOS) that will give you all of the possible upgrade paths for your machine based on it's specs. See here: http://www.mactracker.ca
I've upgraded to "unofficially" supported memory sizes in the past, but never on that particular model. Mactracker (which I have found to be an excellent source of information on this particular subject in the past) corroborates your anecdotal evidence.
The problem is that, as far as I can tell, nobody sells 3GB sticks of DDR2 667 (5300) SODIMM RAM (bonus points to anyone who can find some!), which means you will have to use a 2GB stick and a 4GB stick. This will work (on this model anyway,) but you lose dual-channel mode on your memory (which is kinda like RAID 0, but for RAM instead of a harddrive.) Because of this you will see a slight performance hit in the actual transfer rate from your RAM.
The trade-off may be worth it if you are doing a lot of memory-gobbling work (like running a virtual machine, or Chrome with a hundred bajillion tabs... Guilty as charged...)
If your memory usage is closer to 4GB, then you may wind up ahead by getting that instead of the 6GB set.
The new models are a bitch to work on (on the inside that is) because they're assembled so very tightly, like kingyubba said before me.
The older ones (iBook, Powerbook, iMac G5, Power Mac G5) are way easier to work with because they come from an age when Apple apparently didn't mind customers working on their own Macs.
For specs per model, you can always use MacTracker or apple-history.com.
Newegg is the best for RAM. Avoid the Mac section and browse the "normal" section (laptop/desktop, the iMac would be laptop since it has the smaller sticks for compact design) for it. You're guaranteed for the "Mac" RAM to work and fit, however you'll pay more simply because the company bought a Mac to test it out with, and the occasional case where a Mac will only take a certain higher end RAM with better latency.
Just don't buy a no-name cheapo brand and you'll be fine. Crucial, Kingston, and so on. Some other cheaper ones are becoming competitors that I just can't name off the top of my head.
MacTracker is a free app that will tell you all about your Mac and what kind of hardware it takes for upgrades.
I have never ever heard of soldered in RAM on a recent, traditional Mac (the only maybe is the Air... that's most likely a different style RAM that's integrated). 7-8+ years ago they did on iMacs with the control-arm and on the iBooks, however, if that were the case there was still at least a single slot for you to upgrade manually.
Previous iMacs had 2 slots, now they have 4, and for the past 5-6 years at least the laptops have had 2 slots that are also user replaceable.
Do this to answer your questions:
under the apple symbol (top LEFT of screen) select: about this mac> more info (system profiler)
[LEFT side frame/window] Hardware > Memory write down the TYPE and SPEED of the RAM you already have installed see if it matches what is being offered on special
Then to make sure you can actually use it I use MacTracker to check the max RAM allowed. You maybe restricted to matching the max amount vs using a 2x8 gig (16 total) in a machine that can only handle 8 gig total.... (forcing you to look for 2x4 gig (total 8) as a match set to install.
To answer these questions I like to use MacTracker
it lists all the info you want, by model / year I fine it quite valuable for many different types of questions that come up.
The install is simple enough a 6 grader can do it unaided on most models.
RAM : PC-2700 DDR333 200-pin SO-DIMM
It has 512mb built in. So add a 1gb for 1.5gb.
I'd recommend getting it for that price.
Edit to add : Download MacTracker -- It's an easily accessible database to old and current Mac specs.
> I thought the 2008 aluminium Macbook only allowed up to 4GB of RAM
This is Apple's recommended maximum (4 GB), but for some reason they often low-ball the actual maximum (8 GB for this model). The MacTracker app is pretty good for listing these type of specifications.
I used two 4-GB 204-pin PC3-8500 (1066 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMMs and haven't had any trouble. These look to be around [$65+ on Newegg](http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=204%2Dpin%20PC3%2D8500%20(1066%20MHz\)%20DDR3%20SO%2DDIMM&IsNodeId=1&N=100007609%20600000401).
Edit: fixed the link
Download a program called MacTracker > http://www.mactracker.ca/
Open it up
Actually, from memory I think the cutoff for Mavericks / Mountain Lion is 2008 (possibly 2007). Might be wrong though, haven't been working on Apple stuff every day for 6+ months now.
Easy way would be to check with http://www.mactracker.ca/, I'm just not at a system with it right now
Apple at least tells you the speed of the CPU. And, I don't know what on Earth else you're looking for, but the tech specs page on Apple's online store for whatever you're buying is usually actually pretty detailed: http://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs-retina/
Also, they usually will do things like noting the current tick/tock of the CPU at the keynote. It's pretty clear what you're getting. Most people don't need to actually know that much detail: Maybe this isn't the best forum for airing this concept, but too much information without understanding can be just as paralyzing or misdirecting as too little. Worst case scenario, have you heard of Mactracker?
Depending which model of MBP you have, you should be able to go to at least 8 GB RAM, possibly 16 GB. Download Mactracker:
and it will tell you, by model, what your maximum RAM is. Upgrade your RAM. Then do like the other folks are saying and get an SSD. That machine will fly.
You might download Mactracker. It's not going to upgrade you, but you can use it to see how far your equipment can be upgraded.
Use "about this Mac" (on the Apple menu) to find what you have.
In Mactracker, find your machine.
On the Software tab, look for Maximum OS.
You might learn that your machine will only support "Mac OS X 10.7.5" or you might learn "Maximum OS Latest release of OS X", in which case you can go to Yosemite.
Apple often never upgrades their RAM specifications from the maximum they offered at the time the machine was sold. It is therefore left up to the upgrading community to see what configurations the machine will actually run under newer versions of firmware and OSX. I always suggest checking with MacTracker and/or Other World Computing (OWC) to find out what people have actually tested and found to be compatible.
You can check the exact specs and limitations of your Mac by downloading Mactracker. It's free and it will tell you what's inside your machine, what version of OSX are supported and what kind of hardware upgrades you can do.
Apple seems to never change their specifications from whatever the maximum they offered at the time of release, so it is up to the upgrading community to figure out on their own. Other World Computing (OWC) is a leader in aftermarket upgrades, and they report your machine will support 16GB:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3_1600MHz_SDRAM
Likewise, the excellent MacTracker App gives an actual maximum RAM for your MBP as 16GB, but states that Apple acknowledges will only support 8GB. You can get a free copy of this really handy app here:
You obviously know the difference between a HDD and RAM, but I think the word you're looking for is "stick" or "chip" of RAM as opposed to "drive".
It happened a with a few models in that era where you could max it with 4GB, but only 3GB would be recognized by the system, but I want to say that was before that machine.
Download MacTracker at http://www.mactracker.ca/. It's a free app, has every model of Mac ever made, and will tell you exactly how much RAM it can take/read amongst other things.
Check out the free app MacTracker. It will tell you the max amount of RAM for all Macs (amongst a ton of other data).
As for type and kind of RAM, that is typically more hardware restrictive than just the amount.
I'm not 100%, but if the same type of RAM has various speeds, it typically runs at the lower clock speed on the older machine (this is coming from my old PPC using PC-100 or 133 sticks). This obviously could be different for the newer machines, but I would check MT for starters.
This is not entirely true. Certain 32bit versions of Windows Server can address far more than 4GB of RAM and Mac OS X can address the full 8GB ammount and more without booting into a 64bit kernel. You will, of course, need a Mac that supports the ammount of RAM you install. There are limits based off the board/chipset/EFI in your Mac. For anyone who's interested, try Mactracker to find out how much your model supports.
"Mactracker provides detailed information on every Apple Macintosh computer ever made, including items such as processor speed, memory, optical drives, graphic cards, supported Mac OS versions, and expansion options. Also included is information on Apple mice, keyboards, displays, printers, scanners, digital cameras, iPod, Apple TV, iPhone, iPad, Wi-Fi Cards/Base Stations, Newton, and Mac OS versions."