What are /r/300zx's favorite Products & Services?

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The fuel gauge senders are commonly defective, the resistor material breaks down and gives erratic or no reading. Gauges go out too, but it's more common for the sender to fail.

Nissan released a upgraded unit that it the traditional float style. 240ish at the Nissan dealership, or 212.00 from Nissan on Amazon (that's where i bought mine in 2016, still working fine)

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2478209325788115/

Here's mine on FB marketplace. Cared for by SpecialtyZ.

Recently bought a Z33 HR and am having a baby next month so looking to turn my Z32 into a sedan. Maybe WRX or Evo, idk yet.

You could have got the wrong mast or the retainer collar that holds it in place is worn/broken or the set screw is loose or the clutch grease is contaminated and the clutch is sticky and exerting too much force.

I refurbished a couple of these last summer for my cars and used this mast and this lubricant

I'd have a guess that the retaining collar is worn. iirc, one of mine was but i had a spare that i ended up using.

They're just generic led H6054 headlights off Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/V-spec-Headlights-Headlight-Sealed-Cherokee/dp/B07R8X22MC?pd_rd_w=lsH7O&pf_rd_p=4eebd874-436f-4f05-a794-09646834b2dd&pf_rd_r=CADX240KNQE2TMV7WCY0&pd_rd_r=99ed8646-d6cc-4db7-a178-68c0c17c271b&pd_rd_wg=LHqwJ&am...

Your new pioneer aftermarket stereo is your amp now. Replace the entire plastic black box speaker things in your door and get non bose speaker mounts:

https://www.amazon.com/1990-1996-Nissan-Speaker-Adapter-Spacer/dp/B016YS70OU

Alternatively you can even get the OE 5.25" speaker brackets new on z1 or cpz, though this is a more expensive option.

Similar situation in the back. Your audio will always sound terrible using the tiny drivers that fit in those plastic housings for the bose system. After putting in 5.25" and a modern DIN stereo replacement, your audio quality will be substantially better than the factory bose system, even without an additional amplifier.

Ah I see what you mean now. I can’t recall seeing that for sale anywhere. Is yours leaking or cracked?

When I had a ttop Z and I had a little leak, I bought this grease off Amazon that kind of brought the rubber back to life and softened it up and “thickened” it out if that makes any sense.

Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NMYBb6YYEP9N

https://www.amazon.com/NRG-SRK-140H-Steering-Adapater-Nissan/dp/B00HKM5WKY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3Q9SSLRGQVFFW&keywords=nissan+300zx+short+hub+adapter&qid=1660168515&sprefix=nissan+300zx+short+hub+adapter%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-4

timing belt, should be changed about every 5 or so years.

hoses under the intake plenum, delete them entirely, only there for 90s cold start emission regulations, doesn't affect smog since by then its not utilized when car is warm so no matter where you live its a good idea.

tires ASAP i would not trust those. fucked around with my fair share of tires with similar stories and even driving slower around city streets they like to spontaneously fall apart in unexpected ways and can damage some other stuff lol.

do yourself a favor early and get a obd plug and some software like ECUtalk or preferably buy a copy of nissan data scan so you can get more information from the ECU for future tinkering or diagnosing.

If you set the marks on the cam/crank to the detents on the engine and the marks on the belt, the next time you rotate the engine one full revolution, the belt marks will no longer line up to the marks on the cam/crank, but the cam/crank marks will still line up with the detents on the engine.

As far as tension goes, this is the FSM: https://i.imgur.com/MTLFdZ8.png

I use a analog dial fish scale to pull down on the belt to the proper weight and then measure deflection. https://www.amazon.com/JOOKKI-Hanging-Portable-Digital-Electronic/dp/B0719MS2LZ would probably work.

Neither.

Realize that by eliminating the stock filter, that pulls air from the passenger headlight bucket and putting a cone filter in it's place that now will be pulling in air from beneath the hood, which will be warmer and if anything, negatively affect performance.

To benefit from a filter like this, you need to duct in fresh air from outside the engine compartment. You performance will be determined at how effectively you can feed the filter fresh air, more than filter design.

Besides, these are better

Take the money you save and do a PRW-2 swap if you want more pep in your throttle response.

as others have said, try removing one belt at a time and starting the car to see which belt is squeaking. Next you can try "303 Protectant Spray" which you can usually find at any auto parts store, just spray it on the belts and pulleys, it makes the belt rubber stickier, pic here:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/?th=1

Also check for leaks - in my Z32, the power steering pump was leaking onto the alternator, making the belt squeak, but you could also have a coolant leak or an oil leak at the front of the engine which could be coating the belt or the pulley. You can use brake cleaner to clean the belts and pulleys, but you will probably also need to fix the cause of the leak or the squeal will come back.

Lastly, are you sure your belts are tight and the right size? If you have the wrong belt, it could have the wrong number of grooves or the wrong length and it won't sit properly on the pulleys. I'm not a Z31 expert, but you can Google to find the correct belt sizes if you think this is the cause.

If you pull the entire fuse block out, you can get access to the back side easily. Some have a cover, but some are open.

Once you can see the back, cut those 2x wires, then solder or crimp connect on a fuse holder. $8 on Amazon

MCIGICM 12 AWG Inline Fuse Holder with 30A ATC/ATO Blade Fuse, 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DHT8Y7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RG7Y9VZ1BBJ8225PC0BB

If you wanted it to still be in the stock location, you could probably trim down the first holder, Dremel out enough space to slide it into the oem location, but that's a lot of tedious work.

looks like an aftermarket power cable for a stereo amplifier, the end looks like it screws into an inline fuze, something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Inline-holder-Gauge-including-wrench/dp/B07CG98ZVR

these fit pretty well between the seat and center console in my '94 NA 2+0, can't say how they would fit in yours, but they give you some storage options for a phone as well as a cup

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0866RS2PD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JI8Q5M2/

I've replaced the mast on two antennae assemblies with this and they worked flawlessly. The gear housing needs disassembly to install it, while you're in there it's a good idea to clean out all the old grease and replace it with some sylglide from NAPA

ATOTO S8 Gen2 Standard S8G2A74SD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HPZP1NV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Is the unit I got, obviously needs a double din face plate as well or modification to the oem one. I used a metra wiring adaptor and it was a relatively easy install, my z32 still has the Bose system but it appears to work with the amps without any modifications but YMMV.

ATOTO S8 Gen2 Standard S8G2A74SD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HPZP1NV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Is the unit I got, obviously needs a double din face plate as well or modification to the oem one. I used a metra wiring adaptor and it was a relatively easy install, my z32 still has the Bose system but it appears to work with the amps without any modifications but YMMV.

Have not attempted this type of repair myself, but if the tear is small enough then maybe this would work to adhere the torn parts together.

If it's a larger tear and some material is missing, maybe you could get a cheap bicycle inner tube, cut out a square that covers the entire area and adhere it with that 3M stuff.

If the

I'd skip pliers and hammer and chisel and go straight to the extractor. It'll save you from waisting time with the other ideas and they are a very worthwhile addition to any tool box. I have a set of these and they are fantastic. They have saved my ass more times than I can remember

You can get a cheap borescope, remove the blower motor or resistor and look at the evaporator inlet to see if there's any debris.

I bought one of these recommended from the fordmakeyouloco YT channel. It works way better than my $350 snap-on scope.

https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=depstech+endoscope&qid=1636895871&sr=8-5

OP, seems lazy. There's nothing like taking your time out of your day to talk to someone and guide them to do things right only for them to re-ask the question to look for an excuse to not do it right.

There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to solder properly. Hell, they even sell these new things now that incorporate all-in-one.

TICONN 150 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (150PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCNTZ2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_F6QATKGQ2VYV5B2AFDE2

You'll probably need a locking clip for the belt if it's not just a booster seat. Something like this:

Locking Clip

It will keep the seat from getting loose once belted down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RHAGIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_BDZ18YQZJM8F0XG3HJXR

One thing I would do differently is dilute it with water. I think that would have helped get into the deeper parts of the nap with less coats and preserved the softness of the fabric a bit more. I’m satisfied with the outcome, nonetheless.

If this is you burping the coolant, you're doing it wrong.

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

Jam it in the opening for the filler cap and pour coolant into it until it's around 2" deep. Run the car and top off as the level gets low and/or there are no more bubbles.

I was gonna say they're cheaper on rockauto, but they only show one in stock and thenfound them for 45.46 on Amazon + free shipping

The dash isn't difficult to pull. The stock heater core has plastic end tanks that are crimped on and that's where mine leaked. Aftermarket heater cores are a bit smaller in size and i used inuslation material as to fill the gaps, otherwise the air will just go around the heater core and not through it.

Also this replacement will introduce a lot of air in the cooling system. I could never get the air bubble out of the heater core until i got a Lisle coolant funnel and properly burped the system.

The new style spring clamps are actually really nice, they are double lined so they are less likely to loosen. But as an alternate, you can get a box of stainless steel fuel like clamps on amazon for fairly cheap. Something like this.

I replaced my dual waffle ones that at the time appeared to have never been replaced in 18 years.

It made a difference in reaction.

That one is missing some parts. Like a MAF adapter Kit.

I got this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IMJK30/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its been on there for 6 years no issues.

edit: if youre a TT its a different kit with dual MAF adapters.

If you have no spark on all, or like 4 of the 6, cylinders your car will not run. If you have weak spark, which is more likely, will cause issues like rough idle, low power issues, hard to start.

Likewise if you have a fuel pressure issue you will not be getting enough fuel per cycle causing hard to start issues, misfire, no start at all (if bad enough).

If you have never changed the plugs I would recommend going ahead and doing that, I think its about $20 for 6 and lots of swearing if you still have all the OEM stuff in your engine bay. Since your car is old'er' you might at well change the vacuum lines also. I dont know how much you need for all the OEM stuff but it shouldn't be terribly expensive and it give peace of mind that you will not have a vacuum issue for a while.

Anyways, I am not sure how to test spark for a distributor, or how contacts on a distributor are supposed to look. I could make guesses but am no expert. I used one of these for my COP https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71240-Energy-Ignition-Tester/dp/B00A8FO87S/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1474061791&sr=1-8&keywords=spark+tester and it worked but might not be needed for your situation. Testing wires, plugs, distributor and coil would be my first recommendations. Then check fuel pressure or vacuum leaks.

I used a viper remote start similar to this works amazingly never had an issue and the two way remote is worth the money, use two good quality relays, and this is the best i could find for the actuator and i 3d printed in abs the mount for the solenoid, i actually sell these. and i couldn't bring my self to sell it, i'm keeping her. 13psi with a JWT ecu and boost jets - super fun to drive