What are /r/3dprintingdms' favorite Products & Services?

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OPR is now providing free test print models for all of our releases on Cults3D! Please make sure to like our models and follow our page to help us grow!

Get 15 free models here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/onepagerules/creations

The files come both supported and unsupported, and they're perfect for you to try our models before you buy them. Don't forget you get 50% discount on all models in our MMF store by supporting us on Patreon.

3 months (and a RAM upgrade) later, its finally done.

Includes:

• 2 versions: one wearing armor and one without
• 6 different weapons (with 3 pommel options)
• pre-supported versions (require 122x98x138mm)

Check it out on cults:

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/archdemon-of-decay

Yo remedeez - You will never get truly transparent results from PLA, but you can still get close. I faced this same issue, and actually made some flight bases as part of a KS I recently did (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847416). The solution I came up with was to use white or transparent (clear) PLA for the top/bottom but clear acrylic rods. I used this clear PLA off Amazon with decent results: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K - one thing to keep in mind is that you will see inside supports so the less support the better and pattern is important.

Yea, I broke some off its fingers taking the supports off my prints of this model as well. And really your print looks as good as mine does. Maybe you could slow print speed down a little more, to like 1500 mm / min, and get the remaining fingers to look a little more round.

I use a product off Amazon called InstaMorph to mold replacement parts for stuff that I can't just glue back together.

I loved how it turned out! I'm selling the model, if you want you can give it a look in my cults3D profile, it comes Pre-supported ready to be print 😃

https://cults3d.com/es/usuarios/DamianJimenez/creaci%C3%B3n

Check out our late pledge here

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/3d-scanned-trees-and-3d-printable-wargaming-scatter-terrain

Hi! Hope to get some good advice or motivation from here, I'm thinking about starting a Patreon, I only have a Cults3D profile where I sell my 3D models, can I start a Patreon page without followers or "Patrons"? I was thinking of to give some of the models I sell in Cults3D to my Patrons as a "welcome pack", is this a good way to start? some advice?

Here you can check my other models let me know what you think! : Cults 3D Profile

Thank you and hope you like it!

http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html

It's a free, decently powerful software that allows you to modify stls. I use it mostly to break up models to improve printability, but it's also able to do modifications to appearance. The file you linked is a great practice one actually. Import it into meshmixer, then use edit -> separate shells and it'll break it up into the different solids Velrock used to create the mini. Select the sword (and sheath, they're separate here) and delete them. Then use the object browser window that popped up when you separated shells to select everything, and a menu with "combine" will appear. Click that and it makes everything one body again. Last, file->export as an stl and you're ready to bring it into your slicer.

There are a few Chibi Ragnarok online models like

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/chibi-daena-legend-of-mana

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3802065

You could do some quick and easy modification in meshmixer to change some features and weapons.

I've been using Cura for a year, and I recently started using PrusaSlicer with the purchase of my MK3s. Apparently, PrusaSlicer has a level of automatic patching (it tells you how many STL patches applied after slicing), and I've been exceedingly pleased with the results. Once I get my older Printer back up with a .25mm nozzle, I'm probably going to switch to using PrusaSlicer over Cura for it as well.

There is a ton of resources out there. Look into tabletop wargames like Warhammer, Flames of War, Warmachine and Hordes. These games involve assembling the minis and painting them. This means there is a wealth of information on paints to use, brushes, techniques, and tutorials. Definitely something to look into.

As for actual recommendations, I use Citadel, Vallejo, and Reaper paints. I used to use solely Army Painter and Citadel brushes, but now I'll use what ever brushes I can get on Amazon. This is the set I'm currently using.

Hope this helps!

Hey Omnioji,

I am a big fan of yours, would love to help, but some more info would be needed.

I know you say FDG profile, but some things in those profiles are also kinda fluid and need to be adjusted by you. So in particular, what is your print temperature? What are your retraction settings?

One simple fix which would likely give you some improvement would be to upgrade your bowden tube to a smoother PTFE Tube which causes less friction on the filament and therefor reduces stringing.

I use loctite super glue, decent hold after a few seconds and if I can't hold it steady, this helps

Stick Fast Aerosol Activator 7.5oz (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RLZZSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E76aDbKRKPDC1