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It will kill you! The slightest mistake handling that venomous live cable and your dead!
The only safe way to power these items is to properly install an isolating generator adapter.
Like the one shown in the link below:
u/ChimaeraB,
This is exactly what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A
That resolves all of the guesswork and improvising. Use a 2-1/8" deep 4" square box.
awesome! I'll pick up this one then and report back. Thanks!
They make 240v tandems for this application though.
Remove the ballast and use a direct wire LED replacement bulb. Something like this.
Typically they will specify that they are dimmable. It is possible something like this may work better for you and be more cost effective.
Sorry not an electrician but how is your fixture oriented. I "Amazoned" your product SKU and I got something like this with the snap sides and two prongs.
Here is a basic one, it's a buck converter so is a step-down SMPS
That's what you find with buck converter on Amazon product search. Of course you can search for the other topologies - boost and buck/boost, for converters that can go up, and down/up, respectively.
Not that Amazon is the ideal place to buy these things but it's easy and the stuff seems OK if you derate it by like 80%.
I actually did find this 120v adapter that goes down to 1.5v. The point was to never worry about a single battery going bad ever again. Maybe I'll just get a few of these for fire and CO detectors
For anyone else wondering, it's called the Seven star ss104, the ss105 is another one that goes down to 1.5v as well.
If you don't want to deal with rewiring, I've had good luck with this brand, but I haven't tried the adjustable one: https://smile.amazon.com/Lenink-Adjustable-Adapter-Battery-Repacement/dp/B0B2NS62FR
Like equack said, it can't do 1.5V
1.5volt is problematic because ordinary adjustable voltage regulator chips do not go that low. It’s not difficult to find an affordable adjustable supply that goes from 3V up.
Here’s one:
You could buy a laboratory bench supply that will go down to 1.5 volts but it will cost more. Here’s one:
Your HOA would rather you have a tripping hazard, and somewhat code violating, extension cord rather than a proper connection... that's truly fucking dumb.
You could use something like this, on the outside of the shed, to plug into the extension cord and power the outlets inside of it. If there's a weatherproof in use version I would recommend that instead. Check the extension cord before every use, if there is any damage throw it out and replace.
For the solar power side you would need an inverter that can handle the loads you are using. 5w of inverter for 4w of load is roughly the minimum ratio you would want, if in doubt, get the bigger inverter. Note that motors have high startup amps so running them off an inverter isn't a good idea. Low quality inverters will give you "square wave" ac, so something that gets you "true sine wave" is a better choice.
Sure.
You can use either a 2-1/2" deep handy box or a 4" x 2" x 3" deep square box.
How come they advertise them as surge protectors? Like this one.
I'm not just talking about a regular wall tap, is this not different?
This is the style box you have it's a half saddle box that is cieling fan rated because the fan bracket will screw directly into the joist
So sorry, above was in error. You have to search for a 12 Volt transformer:
Here is an example Just look for a 12 Volt AC adapter rated at 2 amps (that’s 24 VA, but higher capacity is perfectly fine)
You could purchase one of these, but you should put the NEMA 6-30P male end on the heater for sure. I know it sounds like a pain in the ass, but it's for safety reasons. That is a 4,800W heater and it should be wired accordingly.
The plug end I provided and this adapter is the cheapest way I can suggest without you needing to change the receptacle.
Maybe this will help? Wire it into the existing light with the 120v wires in the existing box but leave the usb port inside the new weatherproof box to separate your high/low voltages as best as possible, then run a short cable from usb port to camera through preferably a weather proof connector if possible or drip loop with caulking then mount camera to weatherproof cover.
That's normal from what I've seen, for the cheap and cheerful 6-outlet kind. The top and bottom are wired separately, which is either handy or incredibly annoying if you have a half-switched outlet. Here's an example.
It is handy if you have a split receptacle on separate circuits in a kitchen or something.
Of course if the thing has smarts in it like a surge protector it'd only connect to one outlet.
True.... thanks for your input.
I will try to cram these AlumniConns when using non GFCIs and non dimmers in boxes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3R9KTG4?tag=sacapuntas9-20&linkCode=osi&th=1
Do I need to install these to hot terminals only, or do I need them both at neutral as well?
And for when I need GFCIs and want dimmers, I will need COALR devices.
Correct logic?
I am not an electrician. Sounds like my setup, the interlock is required to avoid backfeeding the grid. I use a Champion Inverter generator (7200w or thereabouts) and this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GHR71PY/
The generator hookup has the ground on the outside. The center pin is just a guide. Obviously you can get whatever cable fits your generator but assuming you haven’t bought one yet.
That is a NEMA SS2-50P plug. You would need to buy or make a cord that has a NEMA SS2-50R recepticle on it.
(Note, since the cord os "hot" on a generator, the cord has the "receptacle" and the bic on the house is the "plug")
Here is an example of a NEMA SS2-50R cord end.
Yah, Ecobee says they need 3VA for each @ 24VAC.
So 3VA X 3 = 9VA.
Most small auxiliary transformers are 20VA, 30VA or 40VA.
Get a 120VAC to 24VAC 30VA rated transformer. You can probably find a plug in model if you don’t want to get into wiring this transformer component somewhere into 120V.
Plug in model:
Hardwire model:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXBHYHC
Specifications:
Brightness: 3500 lumens
Supported resolution: 1920 X 1080
Screen: 44~200 inches
Lamp life: 45000 hours
TF Card: Maximum supported 32G
Input Ports: 2 HDMI, 2 USB, VGA, AV and Micro SD
Hifi Level Stereo
if you know how to use a wire stripper, a wire crimper, and have 10 mins for youtube training, you can buy the entire anderson connector kit here for under $20 and hook it up the right way.... and even learn a new life skill
There are options that aren’t revenue meterbase style.
I’ve installed a couple of these with good results. I’m not sure how active the company is these days, which can be a concern since the data is accessed through their cloud. No subscription necessary though.
Kasa
Smart Single Pole Light Switch by TP-Link (HS200P3) - Neutral Wire and
2.4GHz Wi-Fi Connection Required, Not Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa
and Google Home, No Hub Required, UL Certified, 3-Pack
https://www.amazon.ca/HS200P3-Lighting-Installation-Single-Pole-Assistant/dp/B07HGW8N7R
I too would be curious about what problems u/dhottowa has seen, and whether that was with the alumiconn screw connectors or the Copalum crimp connectors.
Another idea for added peace of mind would be to get a $400 ideal suretest circuit analyzer and check some or all of your outlets regularly. It can detect excessive voltage drop which is an indication of a bad connection.
That's like pouring a 5-gallon bucket into a tea cup and saying you just overestimated the volume of the tea cup. I think you should do some studying before doing more electrical work.
https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/0760353573/
> Is 1200W the input or the output wattage?
No idea. That's what the thing says on the package.
https://www.amazon.com/Anova-Culinary-Precision-Cooker-Included/dp/B07QFC6LN6
> Is it ALL the lights in the house?
Yes.
> What is the rating of the circuit the device is attached to? 15 or 20 amp?
No idea.
> What other devices are on that circuit?
No idea. Could be nothing. Could be the fridge, the minifridge, the oven, etc.
Seems simple enough. Run wires from the battery into a fuse and then the switch, and then run wires from the switch to each individual light. Add some screw in waterproof connectors on the roof for when you remove it, like these: https://www.amazon.com/SZJELEN-2Pin-12Pin-Waterproof-Circular-Connector/dp/B07DCKZ171/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Waterproof+Plug+And+Socket+Cable+Connector+IP68&qid=1666116515&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjgxIiwicXNhIjoiNC4zOSIsInFzcCI6IjMuODkifQ%3D%3D&am...
That is a type 2 to type 2 plug that connects to a charging station. You can UK 3 pin models, but if you go to a public charging station, you’ll need that cable.
Follow-up based on your answers so far
> Can Lumex or NMB be fastened to the underside of the cabinets with cable tie mounts and fasteners. Like These
https://www.amazon.com/CKMU-Outlet-While-Universal-4-Inch/dp/B006HYNURS
There's others, but yes there are metal covers available.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.de/Schrumpfschlauch-Reparaturmanschette-f-Kabel-30-10mm-Erdmontage/dp/B004WJAARI
Not sure what the english name is though
You need a G9 lamp socket. They vary slightly depending on what country you're in, but they're pretty much all the same. If you Google "G9 socket" or "G9 lamp holder" you'll find an exact replacement, or something close enough that you can drop it into your light fixture with minimal modifications.
With most inexpensive space heaters, I'd by hesitant to open them up ... the most I would do is put a new plug on the cord.
When I do replace a plug on a space heater with a 2-prong plug, I use a Leviton MS2-P or Leviton 5866-C ... Point is to use a quality plug, be careful in stripping the wires not to accidentally cut strands of wire off, plug should have clamping terminals, and get them tight. Plug should be polarized.
I believe it is this one - https://www.amazon.com/Yinleader-3000W-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B08TTPRFM3?th=1
"3000W Voltage Converter Transformer(220V to 110V, 110V to 220V) 3000 Watt Step Up/Down Converter 110/120 Volt - 220/240 Volt"
The reason you should do it is that it's a code requirement. And code is more about safety than about interference, although it might help that too.
But there are a lot of other code requirements for an outbuilding, including that you should feed it with only one circuit.
I suggest getting a book or hiring an electrician.
https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/0760353573/
My boss has this dumb ass saying of "that wire don't know what color it is"....lame justification for just using spools up.
You can use any color and then just tape it. Widely accepted industry practice.
Can also plastidip wires. Or nowadays they make actual marker pens for coloring wire
You would need any 12v DC power supply rated at at least 1000w. Something like this.
If you're in Australia make sure it can handle 220v input.
I just get these and throw it on. forget about the existing fixtures. Very easy if you already have 6” hole. You can change the lights color through an app.
Recessed Lighting Slim 6 Inch -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQ6V53R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hi Thank you for your valuable inputs.
Just so that i am clear, bathroom already has a 12 gauge independent run with 20 AMP circuit breaker. You are saying, the heater/fan combo (link below) should be on 20 AMP circuit of its own and the 15AMP bathroom GFCI outlet should be on its own 20AMP circuit breaker, so now i will need to run one more 12 gauge connection for heater/fan combo, correct?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086XMDSR1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
You know, direct body heaters are drastically more energy efficient.
https://www.amazon.com/KINGLETING-Heated-Cushion-Pressure-Sensitive-Switch/dp/B08QSBR18W/
For example this one. Note I'm not shilling it, this was searching "Heated Chair Pad" on Amazon. Seems to have a switch where it turns off when you aren't sitting in it which is efficient.
You can see in the picture of the power adapter it uses 30 watts max.
You could keep the air in your place much cooler. Might as well centrally heat - you need the air to be warm enough to keep your pipes from freezing.
Sure. You mount one of these : https://www.amazon.com/Manual-Transfer-Enclosure-Install-Warranty/dp/B086Z6J4KV/ or get the ATS version for $800 (the ATS is UL listed, this one doesn't appear to be) on the wall underneath that box. So you disconnect those red and black wires from the breaker (turn off the breaker first!) and run them down through the knockout below (don't forget a grommet and conduit or liquid tite!) into the transfer switch box and it goes on the load power output terminals in it in it. Now run another wire, same gauge, from the line power input terminals on the transfer switch up to that breaker.
I see plenty of slack, it should work.
Add in your grounds, add in your generator inlet.
I'm sorry. It's not a dumb question. The way it was worded kinda threw me off a little.
Something like this, along with these.
The Senvile Leto 9000 BTUs are 120V. We have 6 open spots in the current sub-panel. Can you explain more about the cost to trench? I was going to do the trenching myself as its 2.5' from the wall to the sheds and I've already dug out 4" gravel pits for placement of each shed.
The wall outlet is a run of the mill GFCI american outlet. 125v 15 amp. I am not at the location right now to take a picture.
This is the adapter ill be using -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RBL5YHS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for your help.
I'm talking about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XPYRT16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
an extension cord
We have similar that require pushing in 1/8 inch and 1/8 turn then fall out when big end of pins clear socket holes.
This would be the simplest change and only change it from using a suicide cord to regular extension cord. Not an electrician and not saying this addresses any other problems. But if you wanted to make just one change to solve that one issue, now you know these exist:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Straight-Flanged-Receptacle/dp/B003ATXIBG
You simply need to
(1) turn off the power to that receptacle
(2) buy a NEMA 14-50 receptacle and install it where this 'socket' is.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-55050-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00004YUNO/
this one is similar to what you need.
They make some ground only wire nut that have a hole in the top to run one extra long to the receptacle https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Grounding-Connectors-Twist-Green/dp/B001EY0UZQ .
This is the switch ELEGRP Decorator Double Rocker Light Switch, Two Single Pole Electrical Paddle Switch, 15A, 125V, In-wall On/off Switch, Self-grounding, Wall Plate Is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093PVRLHX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_GeLemTt5OLcgq
So you’re saying switch the black wires? The one that is connected in the wire nut put on common terminal side, and common terminal side put on the switch side?
This is confusing because when I pulled the old switch out I kept the wire placements the same
Ah I see. When I was doing a lot of photography there were studio setups that were, essentially, mobile sub-panels with plugs similar to what you'd see on an RV. If you wanted to integrate all of your power into the booth and have it be portable, I'd Google or Amazon "30 amp RV" and do something like this with an extension cord: https://www.amazon.com/RVINGPRO-Enclosed-Weatherproof-Electrical-Receptacle/dp/B09B1PQPYT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1527WSWFCCJ48&keywords=30+amp+rv&qid=1661614012&s=hi&sprefix=30+amp+rv%2Ctools%2C169&sr=1-3
30amp would be plenty, even if you had your preamps, A/D converters, and power amps running right on it. Perhaps there are smaller setups (you don't need 30amps in a vocal booth), but this would be off the shelf and more robust than a household extension cord.
Right! The LED dimmer switches don't seem to be any larger in size or have any greater heat dissipation needs (quite the opposite regarding heat). And I ever bought one of these plug-in dimmers that works great on one LED load. Only $15 and look at how small it is. I'm hoping it's just a matter of time before the manufacturers come out with what we need.
I am in the same boat. I've had some halogens inside cabinets and some fluorescents under cabinets. I swapped out the failing fluorescents for dimmable LEDs (these) and when I could not find a dual LED dimmer, I tried a Lutron MA-L3L3. It sort-of works, but depending on what you turn on and off first, the LEDs might flicker and not turn off. I also tried a Lutron MA-L3S25 (one dimmer and one switch) but that was even worse. It seems like a dual LED dimmer doesn't exist....at least not yet. This road to LEDs has been long and painful.
IDEAL Lil' Ripper Wire Strippers
i use these for resi work all the time.
a good multi tool can go a long way as well. i have owned klein and milwaukee, both have held up well.
OK, I was right except for the French part.
You need the other one I linked to above, the DC output is most likely half-wave rectifying the AC load so it appears to be continual on without an input. You need the other one.
You may want to look into to something like this since you already have a 230v inverter;
European Travel Plug Adapter, US to Europe Plug. only $15usd
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2ZNN6N/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc
I'm in the USA, I figured there was slight barrier - I've re-read your question several times. I guess what is confusing is why do you think a 120vac charger will not blow up when plugged into 230vac? The couple of Hikoki's that I found online are not multi-voltage but were only 120vac.
What you need is a 12vdc to 120vac inverter, they are common & cheap and available everywhere. You will need a model specific to the cord end cap on your chargers.
If your chargers are 14v at 2 amps then they will draw about 30 watts each, if they are 18v at 2 amps then they will need 40 watts each. either way a 40x3 = 120 watts x 15% = 140 watts total.
Actually it’s cheaper than the last time I looked this up.
https://www.amazon.com/Ireland-Adapter-TESSAN-Adaptor-Scotland/dp/B07PVMYM3P
Just be sure to pick one that will convert enough power (watts), that one appears to.
Pool was working fine yesterday. Today I noticed it did not come on. I reset all the breakers. When I tried to turn it on, I hear humming, but no action. Google leads me to try the capacitor first. I cut all the power and safely removed it. I'm having trouble finding an exact replacement tho. Wanted to see if I could get some help here before I did something 'close' but potentially harmful.
Pool pump capacitor https://imgur.com/gallery/R6o6FP2
This is closest I've found so far. But volts higher. Is that ok or keep searching?
I found another one (link just keeps going to main site and imgur messing up) and all the info is the same. But the uF is only at the lower number and not the full range. Not sure if that is an issue or not.
I am new here so I do not know if links are allowed. I looked at their Amazon page and they have an easy to understand diagram for DIY installers. Look at the se cond picture/diagram.
https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-DVCL-153P-2-WH-Incandescent-Single-Pole-DVCL-153P-WH/dp/B085D8M2MR
Amazon sells high amp DC switches by reputable brands. Blue Sea is a great brand and will meet your requirements. I have this one for an R2D2 droid project:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-6004-Circuit-Locking/dp/B00445KFZ2/
It depends on the circuit really. I guess if their would only be one led energized at a time it might be possible. If you had a condition where 3 LEDs were on they would be quite dim. LEDs are cheap. Check Amazon.
Hi all! I recently started returning to developing my own film after being out of the game for a while and I pulled out my trusty Bretford light table to view my negatives on and it the lamps never started. Since I've replaced the lamps before (I've had this thing for almost 15 years now) I just bought new tubes for it and now they're flickering hard.
I have the most basic knowledge of electric wiring, so I know that this could simply be a faulty ballast. What would you all recommend I do in this case? I can't find the exact same part (Robertson RA220P) that's in this box, but I found this one with simliar specs on Amazon, seemingly from the same manufacturer. Would I be okay with doing this myself or should I just bite the bullet and get a local electrician to do this work for me?
I want to plug this oven into the dryer outlet and I want to know if it's possible at all. I found this on Amazon and was wondering if it or something like that would do the job.
You answered your own question with your post title... No, it is not right and can be quite dangerous. You would be better off with a fuse circuit breaker.
This one is about $20
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-MB-15-Circuit-Breaker/dp/
OK, so, it seems that it is some sort of a lamp that uses E14 4W LED bulb. You don't need to get a transformer -- you just need to get an E14 4W bulb that is designed for 120V. Then, you will need a simple adapter to go from NEMA 5-15P to BS1363. Those things cost under $10 on Amazon. Something like this will do the job.
>solenoid tester
As a side note I have a 1980 Wiggy that costs about $100+ and works well for unknown circuits by putting a load on it, thereby negating phantom voltages. I just looked up a cheap model for $20, seems to do the same but can't vouch for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GVT-392-Vibrating-Solenoid/dp/
This doesn't sound like a great idea, how about something like this:
I recommend this specific outlet tester, as it can read voltage as well as indicated good or bad connections.
If the voltage is either good (108 to 130 V) or about zero (<10 V), it's simply a bad connection, likely in the outlet where you need something plugged in for it to work. Turn off the circuit breaker and replace it, or get someone to replace it for you. If you aren't 100% sure how to do that safely, the Black and Decker book is less than $20 and much better than bits of incomplete advice you might get.
Replacing the rest if one is bad quality or wired poorly is a good idea.
> would a sceald GFCI breaker be better? https://www.amazon.ca/Outdoor-Waterproof-Leakage-Circuit-Auto-Reset/dp/B07DWVVXTK
The amazon listing for that calls it a breaker, but don't assume it's actually a breaker. It's probably just a GFCI, and protects against ground faults but not over current.
One option is "smart outlets" that have monitoring built in. I don't know that space well enough to recommend one, but here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-Monitoring-Tamper-Resistant-Appliances-TGWF15RM/dp/B07BX13MLF/
Theoretically you could even find a smart home programming expert who could program it to disable the outlet if others in the same building were also using power, so the circuit couldn't be overloaded, but it would be kind of complex to set that up. Also, these tend to have one switched outlet and one unswitched.
Ok, those are unaffordable, as in my bank account doesn't have enough to buy one of those, my card would simply be declined. However, I'm just going to assume that I have to isolate the inverter ground from the house ground, so it looks like I need a 3PDT switch that'll handle ~4.8A at 120VAC, this switch looks like it'll work:
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Position-Terminal-Switches-Waterproof/dp/B084YQYJHC
It's rated 15A at 250VAC, so that's triple the Amps and double the Volts than what I'll be switching. I also won't be switching under load, though I want to size everything to manage switching under load just for safety margin. I've got the parts to make an enclosure for it. I've got a couple dozen feet of 12/2 SO cord, cord ends, etc, to build the switch box and connector setup.
This is just an example and in no way a guarantee solution to what may be happening, especially if you already have a UL/CSA approve charger. You also cant disclude that your charger may be defective.
https://www.amazon.com/Taigoehua-Suppressor
The ring style are best suited by threading/looping the wire through the core several times in a circle to make a transformer, the clamps may also work but may be less effective.
Thank you for your reply... any idea what to buy? Searching on amazon for "Ceiling light power cable" or "ceiling light plug" yielded nothing. Should I just get a basic lamp plug?
Thanks for sharing this.
I'm afraid I have no further knowledge and can't help. I cannot recall ever seeing these in Canada anyway.
I have seen double dimmer (a quick search: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-S2-L-WH-300-Watt-Skylark-Slide/dp/B001JPTFEW) so you will at least functionally be able to replace the broken switch relatively easily to get the devices working again.
Fridge, freezer, clothes dryer: if yours is electric, that draws considerable power. You can buy a clamp multi meter that will tell you how much amperage each appliance draws then you just have to do the math to figure kilowatt hours. The meters are maybe $50 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094-UT210E-Current-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_11?c=ts&keywords=Current+Testers&qid=1656630983&s=industrial&sr=1-11&ts_id=5011677011
You probably need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/KRI%C3%8BGER-Voltage-Transformer-Converter-Approved/dp/B00HDUUL40
Don't see many normal travel adaptors managing 10A/1100W.
But for that price you can probably just get a new coffee pot.
When I say it goes out I mean it just shuts off. The light itself still works and if you connect it somewhere else it comes right on.
Here is a link to the exact lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZVPK7L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They go into a recessed box in the celling. I connected the same color wires from the light to the celling, and securing with wire ties. I can try to get some pictures later today if needed.
Ok, two things before I give up completely. I want to power just a single USB device. It's my understanding that USB is 5V and 0.5A, which is less than the 12-24V range you stated before.
Could I put a single (double, quad, whatever) USB A or USB C outlet here? Something like this: https://amazon.com/dp/B01N0R2VRA/ or https://amazon.com/dp/B08F7JKFNM/ ? If not something store bought, something makeshift?
The light switch is about a foot to the right and a foot lower to this wall blank. Assuming no studs between them, could I daisy chain something off that (theoretically, with an electrician) and make use of this hole in my wall somehow? Literally anything.
I really appreciate this, thank you.
Super Simple,
​
Get this
and This
​
It looks like they offer faster charging with a 240V outlet. One of these adapters would work:
1FT Nema 10-30P 30Amp Dryer Plug Male to 6-20R T-Blade Female Adapter,30A 125/250V Dryer 3-Prong Plug to 20A 250V 6-20/15R Adapter 12-AWG https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081NNSFZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1G5GCG6RVZSSF0S40CDJ
This will let you plug the 6-20 plug from the charge cable into your dryer outlet: https://www.volvowholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-charging-cable-23-feet-16-amp-32257794
If you really wanted to, you could downsize the 30A breaker at the panel to a 20A.
Not at all. I’m very confused.
Other end of the cable is plugged into my friend’s PC’s ethernet port, which was working just fine with a different ethernet cable today. I believe he plugged in his PC side first but I’ll double check.
Sounds like it’s 32AWG. Here is the product page: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4A2N6S/
Generally speaking if the wiring was within code when it was first installed then it is grandfather in no matter what changes afterwards. So if it was wired before the code that required gfci then it would still allowable today. However, I hate to make blanket statements when your cities AHJ may have some other codes in play - so only they will be able to tell you.
If you don't feel safe you can buy pluggable gfci adapters in many configurations. Here is just one example;
https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30440003-Auto-Reset
Looks like a homeowner special to me…someone used a solder seal wire connector (like this) and then used a lighter instead of a heat gun to shrink it, burning it in the process.