What are
/r/CabaloftheBuildsmiths'
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/CabaloftheBuildsmiths:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/CabaloftheBuildsmiths:
Jet.com
EVGA PrecisionX 16
tonymacx86.com
PassMark CPU Benchmarks
ZDNet
CNET
TinyURL
Ninite
Gumtree
Speedtest by Ookla
PlayOnLinux
AV-TEST
ANSYS Fluent
Streamlabs OBS
Furmark
The most popular reviews in /r/CabaloftheBuildsmiths:
The 1080 ti would be a good long term investment if you hope to game for 4 years. It would be on its last legs by then in terms of relevancy to the games of the time (should current trends continue of course).
Here is a good hard drive from Amazon
only thing that could matter to someone that is a gamer is that directx12 works only on windows10.
You do not play any game that has dx12 and there are about 2-3 games where dx12 matters.
There is no real reason to get windows 10.If you want to have old school start button you can download classic Start from here https://ninite.com/
>For starters, how much do you think I could sell my existing build for?
Not sure because i dont know how the market is.I assume that you will keep a hardrive or something.I guess it should sell at maybe 400USD?
>Mobo - You mentioned my requirements made the mobo more costly - is it not worth it to have bluetooth and optical support built in? I just thought it would simplify things.
Its the combination of optical,front panel usb C support and wifi/bt module.You cannot really save money by buying a bare mobo and throwing pcie devices at it to add support so let it be.
>3080 - How long do you think the supply shortage will last?
No clue but i do know stock has been ramping up.If you are quick you should be able to find one in a few days
>Case - Would this case serve my needs just as well?
yep
>Budget - If I am willing to pay more, how much more could I get out of this build? Should I prioritize the zen 3 if I do so?
Nothing more to add really other than a stronger CPU that should be a zen3 one.
>Future Proof - How long can I expect this to keep my settings high before I need to upgrade again? Which parts are the weak link here?
for 4k60hz the GPU will be the limiting factor almost always.Same goes for VR.I cannot tell you how long it will last because no one knows.Next gen consoles games are about to hit the market so things may start to change soon.It's a very powerful build so don't stress about it much.
>CPU Cooler - Can I just keep mine and replace it (in my old build) with whatever stock one I receive?
Yes but if you bought it before ryzen was a thing(or you dont have the am4 mounting kit in general) you will need an am4 mounting kit for it https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-AM4-Upgrade-Kit-Type/dp/B0776XFS2L
Actually the data protection features of the 750 are always relevant because SSDs are more prone to wayward electrical fluctuations than hard drives.
http://lkcl.net/reports/ssd_analysis.html http://www.zdnet.com/article/how-ssd-power-faults-scramble-your-data/
Anyway this drive is tuned more towards client work loads and is the second fastest SSD for that type of work. The Samsung SM951 is faster for what he wants to do the price is similar and I feel the tradeoff in performance for data protection features isn't worth it.
I don't appreciate your condescending response.
Interesting that one of your rules states "Please remember to be polite to your fellow users. Without civility, productive discussion is impossible." Is this a 'Do as I say, not as I do' rule?
I have already previously read TT's article, they attack Blackblaze on methodology and then go on to make spurious claims..
Here's an interesting counter article to tweaktown that I've also read.
Thank you for your time on the build. I feel like the price may just be a little higher than what I would like to pay. With that said, I would still be willing purchase the build you have laid out if you could explain to me a few things. Why could the CPU be taken down a rung? It seems that you also have the longevity of the machine in mind as well, which is mighty appreciated. Do you believe the build at its current state would be "esports" ready today, in one year, and then 2 years time? And if not what would needed to be upgraded in each time frame to get it there? Sorry about the long list of questions. Your questions just got me thinking more about the machine as an investment. I also have a few questions about the wonderful recommendations you have made as well!
​
- What are the dangers tied into buying a grey market windows account?
- I found the monitor for a slightly lower price on Walmart. Are resources such as this reputable? I apologize if the sourcing of parts is more up to the individual to determine rather than build smiths I completely apologize if I am overstepping. This is the Walmart link to the monitor. <strong>https://tinyurl.com/y2qpfymu</strong>
- Is the tower recommendation made off of any specific factors or is there room for me to shop around for mid tower cases based off aesthetic. If the recommendation is based off some great functionality over aesthetic I have zero issues with the case.
- Out of curiosity what is the difference between going with the rtx super cards now over the non super variants?
Those are all of my questions I apologize about the length of my comment I hope it is not too much.
Thank you for your time on the build. I feel like the price may just be a little higher than what I would like to pay. With that said, I would still be willing purchase the build you have laid out if you could explain to me a few things. Why could the CPU be taken down a rung? It seems that you also have the longevity of the machine in mind as well, which is mighty appreciated. Do you believe the build at its current state would be "esports" ready today, in one year, and then 2 years time? And if not what would needed to be upgraded in each time frame to get it there? Sorry about the long list of questions. Your questions just got me thinking more about the machine as an investment. I also have a few questions about the wonderful recommendations you have made as well!
- What are the dangers tied into buying a grey market windows account?
- I found the monitor for a slightly lower price on Walmart. Are resources such as this reputable? I apologize if the sourcing of parts is more up to the individual to determine rather than build smiths I completely apologize if I am overstepping. This is the Walmart link to the monitor. https://tinyurl.com/y2qpfymu
- Is the tower recommendation made off of any specific factors or is there room for me to shop around for mid tower cases based off aesthetic. If the recommendation is based off some great functionality over aesthetic I have zero issues with the case.
Those are all of my questions I apologize about the length of my comment I hope it is not too much.
I'm not sure about the power usage of water but the effectiveness of it is definitely well known.
2x8GBs is a very good start. You might want to look into the scaling on 1 vs 2 sticks of RAM, see if the extra bandwidth makes a difference as a rudimentary test.
The importance of a good motherboard is often not recognized enough IMO. At first I planned on a Sabertooth for my workstation (boy I'm glad I didn't), before difficulties with used boards from Amazon pushed me to go to a x79 Deluxe. I was a stone's throw from a RIVE and I made the very stupid choice not to get one which I wholeheartedly regret oore PCIe slots and I do rock a fairly serious overclock). The same mistake is mimicked in a couple of my other choices, like a mid tower. Moral of the story? If you find out what you have isn't enough or you want more, upgrading becomes VERY expensive, especially with workstations and other professional computers. I'd look into a workstation board myself, $200 now is worth the peace of mind and while consumer ASUS products are a bit more sketchy, I'm sure their professional customer support is a bit more serious. In any event, there are other workstation boards to choose from other companies.
RAID 0/5 shouldn't be considered unless you seriously need the bandwidth and just pushing up to a higher performance (think WD Blacks) isn't cutting it. IE people recording uncompressed gameplay. RAID 1 is solid for ensuring minimal downtime BUT it isn't a replacement for backups. You can do 0+1 or 1+0 for extra performance with the minimized downtimes benefits.
http://www.zdnet.com/article/why-raid-5-stops-working-in-2009/
If you're using professional grade drives with 10^-15 URE rates, then RAID 5/6 is still viable (to a degree
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=06G-P4-0998-KR this 980ti is one of the best out there.
OC the 2500k and if it ends up not working well(doubt but possible) then you can upgrade.
Your PSU is ok
If you gonna spend money on ram that should be ddr4 if you end up going skylake and if the 2500k does not hold up well.
I cant recall how many USB3.0 ports are required but I think its more than 2(with cameras).If this is true you have to occupy the internal usb 3.0 header your mobo has or buy a PCIe usb 3.0 adapter.
Hey guys, sorry but the case and fans went up in price. Can you recommend me some replacements?
Also, I bought an evga gtx 970 ftw used on hardware swap for 270 shipped instead of the r9. This model: http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=04g-p4-2978-kr .
While I was at microcenter buying the CPU i ended up buying a 500gb Samsung evo 850 ssd for $135 and a 16gb ram kit 8x2 corsair ballistix sport for $62. Should I return the ram and buy a different brand? I'm also deciding if I should return the ssd.... it is a pretty good price. It was so hard to say no haha. If I'm patient I'm pretty sure I can get another samsung evo 250 gb for $60 on hardware swap. The sales rep also told me the mobo I was trying to price match was junk and he wouldn't want me to buy it. He did not try to upsell me on another product either. I still trust your opinions more, but is this mobo something I should consider upgrading?
Thanks for your replies
We can get you a 5820k system.It will not be plug and play with osx though.
after that you go down to the xeon 1231 which is not plug and play either.
I am not really aware of the installation process of hackintosh and trying to get info from tonnymacx86.
I can give you a 5820k/4790k/whatever you want.
Any of those will work eventually.I am leaning on the 5820k system.
Lastly what kind of monitor is that Eizo?Since there will be budget to spare do you need something better?
That quote pretty much sums it up, yes. Also, not hating on religion here, just saying that most hardcore religious people fall into the category.
Also, IGN and their $1400 Steam Machine.
>(http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=1780&cmp[]=828[2] )
Red flag number one: Using sites that use synthetics and bare spec sheets to compare hardware. Using this type of website again (including game debate, CPUcompare) will result in a warning.
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICVeN6WEGgg&feature=youtu.be
Red flag #2: Using Linus benches, and benches that prove you wrong.
>It maybe true that a 8350 won't outperform a i5 right now, the main reason is that the 8350 is an octa core. When it utilizes all its cores it is stronger than most i5 s. The problem is that most programs are not optimised for so many cores and that why it will lose in games right now. Give programs some time to get optimised for multiple cores and you will see that the 8350 wasn't so bad after all. A good example of a game that uses multiple cores is crysis 3.
We've been hearing that same harpy song since 200-bloody-9 with the hexacore Phenoms on the horizon. It's still bullshit. The games that manage to thread properly are one out of a hundred, and even those tend to be outperformed or matched by a cheaper Intel. It's not worth buying an FX for those few games, only to lose performance in virtually every other game. Period.
For fok's sake, your linus video shows a 3570k @ 4.2 matching a 8350 overclocked to 4.6 Ghz! That should be proof enough that even Crysis 3 basically shows that the FX series can be equal to an i5, and nothing more.
It maybe true that a 8350 won't outperform a i5 right now, the main reason is that the 8350 is an octa core. When it utilizes all its cores it is stronger than most i5 s. The problem is that most programs are not optimised for so many cores and that why it will lose in games right now. Give programs some time to get optimised for multiple cores and you will see that the 8350 wasn't so bad after all. A good example of a game that uses multiple cores is crysis 3. This video is what I'm talking about (https://youtu.be/ICVeN6WEGgg). (http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=1780&cmp[]=828) in synthetic benchmarks it is also noticeable, although it depends per benchmarking program. Try looking up different benchmarks.
Windows doesn't do well if you just change all the hardware. The 7200 RPM drive is probably also faster.
I would recommend to copy all data (not programms) on an external drive and install a fresh windows on the new laptop. If you don't have an external drive, you can transfer the data over your local network:
http://lifehacker.com/5658090/whats-the-best-way-to-share-files-with-a-nearby-computer
Ninite is also nice if you set up a system. It installs a number of programms like chrome, firefox, notepad++, vlc player and avast.
The noise on the second quieter keyboard doesn't seem too bad.
but I do have a few questions.
First of, the case and monitor look great. I like them
Second, Why not an i7 or i5 processor instead of a Xeon? Also, is this completely hackintoshable?(I don't know much about it, so I'm going by tonymacx86's Buying Guide, and neither the Mobo, Processor, or GPU are listed on there. Will this be a problem? All the Motherboards are Z97, but this one is 87.
Thanks!
The shipping price is too high from Britain to Ireland ,so no.
I would prefer a mic with the headphones, but it is not essential
I could get a second hand monitor and I may use Ubuntu with this https://www.playonlinux.com/en/ so that I can play games
Hey so I just spotted this deal on r/buildapcsales for an EVGA 1000W 80+ Platinum PSU. Will this unit function as well as the XFX unit you recommended? I placed the order to take advantage of the promotion and snagged it for $111 compared to the $149 XFX PSU.
Can also get a cheap $31 120gb SDD, got one for a friend 3 months ago as a cheap boot-drive. I think it's worth it.
Adding this on because Mad is a lazy bum, Jet.com has a few coupons (though, you save more if you spend more) that you could use for yer new 'phones.
If you have any questions about the CAL! or HyperX Cloud, I can answer them. I'm pretty bad at describing sound, though.
Congrats, Pierre, that is a really nice piece of work! Looking forward to see it in action. Can't wait to get started on mine, but I think I'll wait a bit longer — and it won't be such a beast as yours ;)
Have you already tried to run a furmark test?
Guess your CPU should do pretty well in the Prime95 test as well…
Hmm, I think I'm mostly going to stream Overwatch and I currently own two monitors, one which is a 144Hz monitor is my main and the second display is for the chat and is set to 60Hz.
I was told that with this build I should have no issues streaming but in diagnosing it seems like the load is too heavy on the CPU. I use Streamlabs OBS with very specific settings otherwise I get massive screen tear & lag.
Encoder: x264, Rate Control: CBR, Bitrate: 3500, Keyframe Interval: 2, CPU Usage Preset: Ultrafast, Profile: main
My downscale filter is Lanczos (Sharpened scaling, 32 samples) and I stream at 30 fps
B
Based on that, my recommendation would be an AD900X - there are a few other options (quite a few, really) in that range, but if you're not picky, it's an easy pick. You can snag one new for around $140 on Amazon, or around $110 used. On the more audio-centric used market (Head-Fi, /r/AVexchange), you might be able to knock off a few dollars from that used price, though AD900Xs have held their value oddly well, probably because the price abruptly fell fairly recently and the used market hasn't really adapted yet.
The AD900X is a very open headphone, light and comfortable for most (though AT's 3D wings don't work perfectly for everybody - if you have issues with it sliding down, try a rubber band between the two "wings" to increase tension), with very good positional audio. They're quite easily driven as well, meaning that you should have no issues running them off integrated.
Thanks for the info. I think the RAM is ECC, but I'll double check later today.
Would the Asus Rampage III GENE work with the xeon? It is insanely expensive for such an old socket and used board. Amazon says they're getting some refurbs in stock for 179 on September 1st though.
Project isn't time sensitive, I just have parts not being used and that's driving the wife crazy. So, it's either do something (or two somethings) with it, or sell it.
Know where I can offload a server?
CPU Cooler question: on PCP it says that the Scythe Kotetsu supports LGA1151 but on SuperBiiz it only lists the following: LGA 2011/ 1366/ 1156/ 1155/ 1150/ 775 Do you think that it's safe to buy since it has both 1155 and 1150?
Answered my own question while typing it, going to post it here in case anyone else is looking at this.
According to this Amazon page Q&A which also has it Prime for $39.95 it will work on all 115x sockets and they linked a PDF on the manufacturer's site, they also noted that it comes with thermal paste. It seems to be Scythe's official store on Amazon and it has great reviews for being quiet and efficient so I'm going to pull the plug on Amazon here.
Neither of those are in stock. The guy that called me said that right now it's impossible to sell them for that price. The one I posted from amazon was 77€! But they also have single kits for 73€: https://www.amazon.de/Ballistix-Single-PC4-19200-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B0198X44VA/ref=sr_1_13?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1480438024&sr=1-13&keywords=ddr4+16gb
Sorry to keep bothering you, but I have another question.
I was wondering if this has the same specs or better than the one you recommended. I really need the Prime shipping (since I have Prime), so I would prefer to purchase something from Amazon.
>I know at this point I am pretty much just being nitpicky, but will the yellow color of the RAM be apparent when inside the case? It'd be better if the colors matched a bit better. Would something like the G.Skill Ripjaws V in this 2x4GB alignment perform well with this setup of speeds at either DDR4-3733, 3200, or 3000?
Spending that much extra just so you don't have to paint ram is silly IMHO. Paint wont hurt cooling much and you can make them whatever color you like.
>Any suggestions for a case around that price that is microATX with a window (and if possible a PSU shroud)? This is the list of cases under $65 and to be honest not a lot of the cases on there are great, and those that stand out are more around $60.
Understood, but if we are being efficient, a mid ATX case is going to save money, and fit the PSU (referring to your post below). Going with the carbide 88R, define c mini or masterbox 3 would just be spending more money to be smaller, compromise part fitment and likely cool worse. If it has to be smaller, the masterbox would be best - comes with two 140mm fans and is widest for CPU cooler clearance. Fractal runs second coming with two 120mm fans and being a bit narrower. Carbide only comes with one fan, I wouldn't waste time with it.
>I did some research and found that the Thermaltake H15 case that you linked earlier is not sold in NA, but is sold in Aus, UK, LatAm, and more.
Strange, amazon seems to think its available. But no matter were on to windows anyway.
Hello Mad_Economist!
There is $147.00 +/- left in the audio budget
Currently in house / on hand, we have available:
I wasn't aware the Sony set had a flavor with microphone. That's neat. I've used this model of over ear for some time and have been happy with them. Model with the mic is at the $25 price point on Amazon
The Astro A10 Headset set is heavy, but has the audio adjust on headset cable which is handy. However, the audio from mic didn't work well with trash salvaged 32bit Ubuntu machine.
She says she wants over ear
She doesn't have in-depth knowledge of audio specifics
If it we're plugged into anything other than the PC, she would be laying in bed using a phone or kindle with a headphone jack, head on pillow
For portability I touched on use cases. Well, I mean, she might use them in the pop-up camper on camping trips?
Used equipment or refurbished is fine with us
Thanks again for all the help. I'll look closer at my hand size and the mouse reviews when I can accurately measure my hand size. This one can wait, as I can use a cheapo mouse to get the pc setup initially.
On the monitor you've listed, how would that compare to this one I found on buildapcsales?
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16824011162?amp
I'm putting together my Amazon and Newegg carts right now and hopefully I'll be at Microcenter either tomorrow or Monday.
I hope you won't begrudge me nickel and diming myself on a case I like a little better, I think I might grab the Fractal Meshify C.
Okay, so closed back is a kind of small market? What about open back? I know it gives it a more natural sound stage, but has a more sound leakage, which I'd be fine with if it got me a better product. My only real worry with sound leakage was audio getting picked up by the microphone, which is a current problem in my cheapo openback.
As far as expanding budget I could probably squeeze out another 50-100 onto the top for a max of 350. if that'd help get me some good options. I was also talkin' with my buddy yesterday and he brought up USB Condenser microphones might not be a bad idea to look into pairing with a headset? He sent me this link as to what he had [Amazon Link: TONOR](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NRP9N5/ref=psdc_11974641_t1_B07GQT8879?th=1) which something in that price range would leave 250-300 for a good headset.
​
While I suspect that issue is antenna related and you could upgrade the integrated Wi-Fi card, looking at the cost of a bare AX200 card and new antennas is about the price of any of the cheap ~$30 Wifi 6 cards (of which all are using AX200 cards at this time and will only have differences due to the included antennas). If you can spend the cash, I'd go with the TP-Link card just for the antennas, otherwise go with this guy: big antenna boi
https://www.amazon.com/1MORE-Earphones-Headphones-Resolution-Smartphones/dp/B01A7G35S0/
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C
and this so that you can have both the mic and audio working on the front panel of the case.
Thanks for all the help. Ordered CPU, MOBO and Ram. Decided to go with 8gb x 2 Crucial sports LT 3200cL16 at 75$ with delivery in 4 days with cpu and MOBO. As 16GB is sufficient for me right now in my current system and have heard 8gb overclocks slightly better than 16GB. Can upgrade in few years and sell these if needed.
​
I am seeing scythe fuma 2 in stock at amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Original-Design-Towers-Cooler-SCFM-2000/dp/B07QMK5R45/) at 60$ and Noctua NH-D15 at 90$. I don't mind buying either as I saved more money on RAM for now or waiting a little longer as I can manage with stock cooler till then. What do you think?
Some great info here, thanks! A few things:
Is Ryzen 3600 really enough to comfortably run today's games? For example, the recommended specs for Mount and Blade II: Bannerlord on Steam lists the 3600X as the recommended CPU for performance. If I'm investing in a large upgrade of my system, idk that I would want to go for a CPU that's already below the recommended specs for soon-to-be-released games. I would want it to last for a while. With that expectation, do you think I need to rethink my budget and go for a better Ryzen CPU?
The RAM issue is definitely something I wouldn't have caught, thanks for that.
For the PSU, yes the one listed on the first PCPartPicker list is the one I have - this is the Amazon listing for the one I have in my current rig: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85X2AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I think that's the same one I listed, yes? If so, why does that make you think this should be bumped up to a 2080 super?
And sorry, yeah, I did post about a month back, but due to circumstances at the time I wasn't able to pull the trigger, and I've since re-thought it a bit. I was hoping to scale it back a bit price-wise and lean more into upgrading the existing rig rather than doing a whole new rig & just stripping parts as needed from the old one. With that plus the fact that you never know how quickly the hardware landscape changes, I thought I would post again.
I found a different case and I know it's more expensive, but was wondering if it would work for this build?
Ok, thank you--I will stick with the I5! Would the case that I found above be ok for the Intel build?
Is this the same case as your first link, just with a tempered glass window? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K9JNT3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
If so it'd be a bit cheaper once shipping is applied.
FYI I went by microcenter today and they had several b450 mobos that are ryzen 3000 ready, including both the asrock pro4 and k4. Don't know if that helps with future recommendations.
Re: the 144Hz monitor, does it have freesync or g-sync? The pcpartpicker specs say freesync, but the amazon listing says g-sync so I am confused. (edit to explain further: I'm still undecided which gpu to get, but don't want to pay for g-sync if not needed and want to make sure freesync will work if I go with the 5700 xt)
Lastly, are there any other accessories I may need? ie all chords are included? If it's not clear already, this is my first time building a pc.
Awesome thanks. Nice to hear that the 3600 holds up very well.
Oof I think I'll settle with 60Hz instead.
I got a nice deal from a friend for a 1440p monitor. It's the Dell U2715H. Looks like it's same specs with the BenQ monitor you linked. What do you think? I can get it for £100!
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/vQjG3C/silverstone-power-supply-sstsx600g it comes with an ATX to SFX adapter.
From what i see,you will need cable extensions if you want to route the cables from the back and im not sure if its possible to have them reach from the front.This adds a bit to the complexity of the build
Check the frequently bought together section here to get an idea of what you need.
You will likely also need sata cable extensions but im not sure.
IMO we see how the GPU market looks like in a month and go from there.
Good to hear - a hearing aid will be a better place to put money than better speakers, particularly if you can convince him to consistently wear the thing and keep its calibration updated. FWIW if you're a member, Costco has decent rates for this sort of thing.
However, built-in computer monitor speakers are...typically pretty bad, and for at least one of /u/transam617's recs not present. You might want to consider something like a Micca PB42X or a similar $100~ powered pair of bookshelf monitors - they'll get louder and sound better than the monitor speakers. I wouldn't necessarily put them before a hearing aid, though, if it's a tossup between the two :P
You mean something like this? Is it compatible with the rest?
>There are no haswell motherboards that have type C built in as far as i know.Your only option may be this https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Including-SuperSpeed-Connector/dp/B073NZFM9V
I didn't know such things existed, that's a great idea. Have Haswell mobos been dead for a long time? I mean, is it really interesting for me to change the motherboard to another Haswel in order to have more pcie slots whilst keeping my CPU, or should I get a newer architecture and new CPU now that will last a decade?
I like the build you've presented above is great! Motherboard has all the features I requested. It's reassuring to know the I7-8700k is still well recommended. I think i'd like to keep the current CPU cooler, unless there was a specific reason you added the Scythe? Thank you for helping me out during the holidays. Appreciate it!
edit: Looking closer at the motherboard, it seems a little short on usb ports and has a displayport which seems superfluous, at least for me, since the monitor will be hooked up to the 1070 at all times.
What do you think of this motherboard?
Hi OP,
Myself and u/Mad_Economist can try to help you pick some speakers if you are in the market to replace your cyber acoustics.
I sympathize, they don't come very highly recommended, but probably served you well.
First question really has to be what do you have room for in the space your PC is? $600 is a decent amount to spend but its good to start with your room size and what you expect from the system. Our standard recommendation for replacing something like you have would be JBL 305's with a cheap powered sub for stereo listening in a small room.
If you need surround sound, have a larger room, or have odd sources besides the PC let us know.
Sounds like the 305's would fit the bill then, you may have to hang them, but for the dollar they are very good.
>Years ago, people used to be all about tweeters. Is it worthwhile having one?
Er, the tweeters on the LSR's are very good, Im not sure if you are confusing the waveguide tops on the speakers with a traditional dome tweeter. Both serve the same purpose, but the waveguide just distributes sound better than domes do at this pricepoint.
The only thing you may want with these speakers is a separate subwoofer. If you want to get one, it'll be a tight fit in the $600CDN you have to spend on the audio stuff.
This would probably work, but would put you $50 over:
https://www.amazon.ca/America-12-Inch-430-Watt-Down-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B0000Y2WYS
Good response down to about 30Hz, which should compliment the LSR's nicely in your small room though if you can spend a bit more, the F12's are a bit better:
https://www.amazon.ca/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/
Decided a pair of HIFIMAN HE400I's and a Modmic 5 should do the trick!
Thanks as always, dear leader.
how about these could they work with my Mobo and my CPU?
Turns out the Direct is also available here
Yeah, you sold me on the R1. As far as I can see reviews give 1-2 ºc lower temps to the noctua vs the cryorig so that's negligible. And, being things as they are with ram prices I don't think it would be wise to cut off rams from the list just because of clearance problems with the noctua, plus the r1 looks better I guess. I've read about it being a bit louder but I suppose I can change the fans, although my current rig sounds like a plane reactor so I don't think I'll even care :D
The case, the thing is googling about coolers and rams took me to here and there and ended up at gamers nexus reading the review of the r6 about the modularity and good performance and since I had saved a bit on some components (i.e. 40€ less on each monitor) thought about giving myself a present. Not that the meshify is a bad case, on the contrary, every review puts it as a really good mid-range case. I don't know, do you have any suggestions you feel particulary good?
Didn't look at the ram CAS, but yeah, I don't plan on overclocking so no problem there. Just any 32 gb you feel is good enough without breaking the bank.
Perfect.
is there a difference between the Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB and the Nvidia version ?
Thank you.
It's this one, purchased October 2016, after my previous one died.
I know the D14-H has RAM clearance issues occasionally, since it hangs over very far. Does that RAM fit under the heatsink?
Thank you!
So uh, how much budget is left for me to work with, here?
/u/Truenoiz, I've got a few questions:
How much are you comfortable allocating to audio? Depending on how much budget remains, some pretty neat stuff might be in reach, but I know that some folks have limits on how much they're comfortable investing in things like headphones and speakers?
Does the mic need to be integrated into the headphone itself, or would an in-line cable mic (ala V-Moda Boompro) or attachable boom mic (ala Antlion Modmic) be suitable as well?
What have your previous headphones and speakers been? Is there anything in particular you'd like to improve on?
What are your preferred musical genres?
Is competitive gaming usage/positional audio/soundstage important to you?
Is noise isolation a requirement?
Is portability a factor for you?
Do you have a preferred sound signature/tonal balance/frequency response (e.g. bassy, neutral, etc)?
How do you feel about buying used? The audio world has a vibrant used market, in part because components don't go out of date very quickly compared with PCs, so you can swing some rather compelling deals by buying used.
https://www.amazon.de/TP-Link-TL-PA4010PKIT-Netzwerkadapter-energiesparend-kompatibel/dp/B00ADW9R22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493549248&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapters forgot powerline.How fast is your internet?If you are going to have super fast internet any time soon we can look into better adapters.
these dell computers have locked down bios and have compatibility issues with some gpus out there.I was reminded of another dude that came here with the same request and started doing some google searching again.
http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19566955 see here some info.
It would be better to get a gpu like the gtx 950 75watt version.The rx series appears to be having compatibility issues because the dont support 103 vesa mode
the solution is displayport,Mobo in build above has it.
If your TV does not have a displayport you can use an active dp to hdmi 2.0a adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS or this one https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017BQ8I54&pd_rd_r=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5&pd_rd_w=uMnWY&pd_rd_wg=9rDBd&psc=1&refRID=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5 and then an hdmi 2.0 cable
That is...a surprising amount of neutrality. Well, one compelling option would be an Audio-Technica AD900X. The AD900X is a very spacious-sounding open-back which a lot of folks like for gaming, it's very easily driven, and I personally consider it exceptionally comfortable owing to its very light construction and "3D wing" headband system. However, the AD900X - like most open Audio-Technicas - really falls down on the lower bass response, so if you want more kick on the bottom end, another option might be preferable.
To some degree, I'm struggling here because I don't have any solid indicators of preference to fetter options. The AD900X is probably among the highest fidelity options you can get for the money, but I'm having trouble reading whether you'd like it or not.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BenQ-GW2765HT-inch-LED-Monitor/dp/B00M913DVG?ie=UTF8&tag=pcp0f-21
You could get 1440p for cheaper but we decide to pick 1440p monitors 27 inch and above due to poor windows text scaling.
I'll reply to this one for clarity's sake.
So get rid of the Yamaha (it's been collecting dust so it will continue to do so).
The simulated surround sound would be lovely. Movies, games, etc would all benefit, but if an external piece of hardware is going to be much more cost effective it seems silly to spend extra for it. And it seems that if I get a soundcard with an amp then it would cover my amp need?
Seems like I have two options for what I'm looking for.
Sound card that has HRTF and an amp, removing my need for an external amp, but pricier.
An external sound card (like this?)
Seems like the second option is about 75% cheaper but I would need to figure out some housing for it so it wouldn't just sit on my case/desk (which wouldn't be a big deal at all, my company makes custom mounts)
Oh, thanks for clearing that up for me. I am adding all the parts into my cart, however, the other fan splitter: http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQSZ68/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447094528&sr=8-2&keywords=3pin+fan+splitter, is out of stock. Is there any other alternative?
Hi, I've read a little about the limitations of 4k TVs, but i'm not really sure how that translates on the user side. Are you suggesting that for true 4k gaming I would need a monitor, not a TV?
As far as the sound system goes my requirements are very minimal. I just want to have a good experience. I don't even have a TV or any sound system right now, so anything would be an improvement. I just wanted to maximize my immersion experience, but sound is definitely a tertiary consideration here.
I'm thinking about this package for sound/TV. Thoughts? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LSW1WM/ref=gbps_img_m-3_4382_4a674b6e?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2309274382&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=5550342011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0VZN5ZFE0Y8SBK3PTMDS
Definitely. Check out WSGF.org for lots of stand help as well as game reviews specializing in testing for compatibility with widescreen and triple screen gaming. Also, for VESA compatibility with these monitors, you'll need these adapters. Three of them (obviously).
Also, for your audio needs, I highly recommend getting the full treatment from /u/Mad_Economist. He's a moderator over at /r/headphones and should be able to set up up with some good headphones.
980ti costs around $600 and has almost identical gaming performance,I see no reason atm to keep the titan x when you could get almost 2 of those.Case is on the very expensive side also,but it is always up to you if you want to keep it or no.
You could also get the 5820k from MC if it is worth the drive(you save $60)
Lastly for powerline you will need something with Gigabit ports+AV ready+500mbps or more transfer speeds
this one should be good enough.ALWAYS plug the kit straight to the wall and not on some power strip or UPS to avoid dropping sync 24/7
I have two for you to consider.
This Vivo V03 is not a box and is red and black. It will just barely fit the space you have. The fans it comes with are loud though so I would recommend replacing them and buying 120mm filters because the openings in the case don't come with any.
Alternatively, this Bitfenix has filtered intakes, but is a bit more plain. You could change that with a couple red LED fans though.
Let me know what you think of these so I can further improve my sense of what you want.
With the UCA202? Something like this, RCA to mono 6.3mm or XLR. I believe the UCA202 is plug and play, actually, though if the instructions say otherwise, just follow them.
This should do the trick
That way OP can power and control 6 fans plus the CPU fan.
You do indeed. A TRS 3.5mm to 2xmono TRS 6.3mm cable will work, though you could also use a 3.5mm TRS to dual XLR cable if you had one handy.
I was looking at these Shure SE112-GR's and the model linked in my previous comment. Entry/budget level models.
I'll check those subreddits you mentioned- thanks.
Mind if I ask what hardware you use and in what context?
Everything is ordered. Thanks! Just an FYI, I got the monitor on Amazon because its actually cheaper and I have Prime. Not sure why this price wasn't reflected on PCPartPicker...
If its pictures of the how it will look after I moved into my apartment then I will get those. If you're talking about what I'm thinking of using then this is it.
edit: Nevermind on using that stand I just linked, I didn't notice it was not big enough
Monitors:
My main monitor is the ASUS VN247H-P. @ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AVYNS7M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
The second monitor is garbage and just use it for work (spreadsheet references etc).
Storage
The OCZ Vertex is about 2 years old and currently running fine. The Seagate drives are older - both running fine at the moment. Not a priority to replace any of them really but I'll trust your suggestions :)
Audio
Not sure of the model number anymore but I have a Logitech 5.1 setup. Happy enough with the performance there. edit: Its a Logitech Z-5300e. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Z-5300e-THX-Certified-280-Watt-Surround/dp/B0002SQ0AE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1439924537&sr=8-7&keywords=logitech+5.1
The HyperX Cloud is essentially a Takstar Pro80 (a.k.a. Gemini HSR-1000) plus a mic for a fairly significant price premium. It's not a bad headset - indeed, it is one of the few good headsets - but for its cost, you can get an equivalent or better headphone and a clip-on mic like a Zalman Mic1.
The Cloud 2 is just the same headset plus a USB DAC-amp with surround sound, memory serving.
The majority of gaming headphones, including the G430, have quite poor sound quality and build quality for their price, relative to actual headphones. They also tend toward using USB connections, mandating an integrated DAC and amp which is usually of lower quality than the integrated in your motherboard and increasing cost (and, thus, price).
The HyperX Cloud is one of a small body of headsets which are literally just normal headphones with mics added onto them - the Takstar Pro80, specifically. It's a fine headphone, and in fact is well regarded as a budget option, but the (entirely appropriate) price of its cheapest incarnation, the Gemini HSR1000, should give you an impression of how it stacks up to $80 or $130 headphones.
On a very good sale, one of the better headphone-cum-headsets would be fine - the Clouds have dropped below $60, which is entirely reasonable for a $45-50 pair of headphones plus a decent mic and some extra accessories, for example - but in the vast majority of cases it's cheaper to just buy the right headphones for you and add on a Mic1 (if budget is crunched) or Modmic (if you want really solid quality). Gives you a heck of a lot more options, too, as the market for good-quality headphones is massively larger and more diverse than the market for headsets with good sound quality.
Believe me, answering questions about audio is no trouble at all. If anything, I have a tendency to doggedly pursue people, hurling unwanted audio explanations at them...
Save yourself some money on the kb/mouse and invest it in a larger ssd or more aesthetic case. Maybe this combo for 36.
Do you have a recommendation for what type of powerline adapter to get? A cursory search reveals these, but this is super new technology to me, so I'm not sure if this what I should be looking at.
Everything is purchased now, should be shipping within the next couple days. The only variation from the first build is I somehow didn't submit to buy the RAM from newegg I guess, so when I was putting in the amazon order I found this which was on flash sale or something for $46. I ended up getting the WD caviar Green HDD you suggested not noticing it was 5400 rpm, but I'm not too worried about is as my SSD has plenty of capacity for the stuff I'll be using most so it'll likely be a backup/school work drive and not even have games on it. Speaking of games, it was a nice touch finding a GPU with a free download of GTAV on it, so I appreciate the crap out of that too.
Hm, pretty tight, but still doable. I would recommend the HE-400is plus a suitable amp or DAC-amp - if you can import it at a reasonable price, Schiit's Magni 2 would be a good option, as would whatever local seller has Objective 2s, but in a pinch a FiiO E10k will work.
That being the case, you don't need to consider going used/refurb, as a new HD558 is within your price range. I'd suggest a Zalman ZM-Mic1 as a cheap clip-on mic to make it into a gaming headset.
Can you clarify a few things for me? What do you mean by "video capture (ultimately, but not for the build--don't need a capture card...i'll get that later)"? Are you recording gameplay on your PC, or on something else like an Xbox One or PS4? Are you also editing video, in that case?
Do you need any other peripherals other than the wireless Xbox 360 controller? (Which is very easy to get by the way)
Where are you getting the $220 i7 and 970 from? If you're just gaming at 1080p/60hz, it isn't strictly necessary to get either, an i5 + 290 would perform very well.
Also, you can just edit your post with more information, but including the information in the comments is fine too.
Is this a good one as well? I'm actually wondering about a slightly larger one than the one you posted
EDIT: I canceled the other and ordered this one but can still cancel/order something else easily enough if necessary
How much heavy gaming are you doing? It looks like most of the games you listed are unreleased/not particularly twitchy/demanding, so this might be a case where 1440p/60hz would be fine. And regarding your question about 1440p/144hz, a single 980/970 will certainly not be sufficient for demanding games, but since most of the games you listed aren't out yet, we have no idea how well they'll run or if they'll significantly benefit from 144hz.
Is a single card really mandatory? Apparently Linux supports SLI, but even if it doesn't, you can just disable the second card.
Do you have any preference for form factor or LEDs with the keyboard? With your budget, you have the option of going for more exotic options, like a TKL/60% keyboard, or LEDs.
How does the Func MS-3 look? /u/Mad_Economist has 9" hands and says they were comfortable enough for him to use a palm grip.
What speakers do you have at current? We're big on peripherals, and audio is a big part of that.
i believe it is seated all the way the fans are on and the lights are on and i am using two separate cables, these ones, however i am using the two male ends and leaving the female end open
I suppose overclocking isn't super important to me. I was thinking of doing it to increase fps in certain games (even though i know it doesn't make much of a difference)
I understand the price of some of the things might change a little in those 2 weeks- i suppose i am looking more for suggestions on what might improve the performance for around the same price as what i have picked out. unfortunately this is kind of the way I have to do it... it's a long story. I wont be coming back to get new prices. I'll be going with what you guys suggest regardless of a small-medium price change in the next two weeks.
The Blue Ray reader was mostly because I have some plans to use this PC for home theater in the future.
My mouse and keyboard aren't really anything special, so I suppose I wouldn't mind new ones if they fit in the budget
this is the monitor I have from my old pc I just sold. I bought the monitor pretty recently: http://www.amazon.com/VE278H-27inch-Screen-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B0099XBO5E/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1428554551&sr=8-5&keywords=asus+27+inch+monitor
Ah, alright. Thank you for clarifying.
Alright, so, just to get final clarification before I start designing a system, the monitor was not included in the $1,250, but is included in the $1,600, correct?
It is with certain switches - buckling spring, MX Greens, MX Blues - but a lot of them are quiet. Within said group, would you prefer a tactile switch, with a "bump" on actuation, or a linear switch, which just goes straight down with no difference in actuation force?
No worries. How high does the quality need to be? IEMs, obviously, don't work with things like Modmics or the like, but a cheap Zalman clip-on would work if you're not overly concerned with quality.
No preference at all? Alright, that being the case, I'll target a fairly neutral sound. One last question, re: IEMs: do you prefer to wear your cable straight down from your ear, or over the back of your ears?
Alright, been running some numbers - prognosis not ideal. Basically, the corner I'm backed into here is trying to fit a decent pair of headphones while also fitting a non-terrible mic. I could quite easily fit a good pair of headphones - AD500xs, for example - and a really cheap, quite shitty mic, or a very cheap pair of headphones and a very good clip-on mic, but unfortunately I'm having quite a lot of trouble finding room for both. Do you have a preference between the two?
Where do you stand on "black with yellow accents"?
Quiet and high-performance are relatively mutually exclusive, barring some really fancy (and expensive) liquid cooling. It's far from impossible, but it's a fairly large amount of effort to set up and maintain, and it will cost, by my count, upwards of $600 at minimum.
Alrighty, can do.
Could you define "too much"? For some folks (DMZ, for example), that's $100, whereas for people like me who have ~~gulped down the flavour aid with great gusto~~ seen the true glory of hi-fi, it's closer to $1,000.
Edit: Having run some numbers, it looks like AMD GPUs may be the superior option, here. You alright with missing G-sync, or is it worth the extra cost to you?
> Nope, all you should need is a screwdriver.
I feel that a three-prong grasping tool is absolutely essential for PC building, if you're doing it at all commonly. It takes dropping a screw into the case from "massive annoyance" to "minor annoyance" at worst. Beyond that, an anti-static wrist band would wise, to avoid risk of ESD.