What kind of Hardiboard are you are cutting that you need a circular saw? Have you tried the nibblers? https://www.amazon.com/PacTool-SS204-Snapper-Cutting-Cement/dp/B001MUSY6E/ref=asc_df_B001MUSY6E/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&am...
I don't have a lot of experience with Hardi, but I personally wouldn't want to spend to much on a saw for cutting the stuff.
I have a challenger.
Roof Cutter Secrets is a working carpenters book of how to calculate almost every aspect of building a house. Works with Construction Master type calculators.
Rough table of contents: figuring walls, rafters, production cutting, hips, valleys, (bastard, regular and irregular) sheathing, dormers, towers/polygons, bay roofs, miscellaneous roofs, beam work, stairs, arches, curves, domes, skylights, coffer ceilings, pop-out bays and reference charts.
Bud, you ought to splurge and get yourself a deck wrench
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088WCH7KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QNQT288VNHFBYSEW9JHY
There are other ways to straighten out twisted decking boards, but that one is simple, effective, and affordable
You can buy a Jumbo plate.
Leviton, White 88601 1-Gang Decora/GFCI, Wallplate, Oversized, Thermoset, Device Mount, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZNJW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_UYq9Fb3546XSN
3" long straight cutting router bit (like this one on Amazon). Make a good jig for the router to follow, and make multiple passes so you're not trying to chew through too much wood at one time. 3" bit will get you half way through, then flip lumber and jig over to go rest of way through. A sander will take care of any ridge if you were slightly off with the jig. The jig will also assure all three pieces look identical.
Look up “easy out” on amazon. They have a kit that’s made for extracting stripped screws and bolts.
Bosch BSPE6D 12Piece Steel Spiral Flute Screw Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G1M1TQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w5xZEbFKHW99H
Yes. They also make them in a square style like this, Hardware Essentials 320892 Square U-Bolt-5/16-18 x 3" x 2", Zinc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0X93QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EGWQ56BR1W21AF78QDTZ
Thick UV rated zip tie. Cut slot just wide enough to push the tie through. TR Industrial Ultra Heavy Duty Multi-Purpose UV Cable Ties (50-Piece), 250 lbs. Tensile Strength, 8.9", Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ1B5B4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5YNFHQXTQ2A7TM8MB28K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
We successfully got rid of our drumming woodpecker by hanging bundles of scare tape near the spot the little asshole was hammering. Essentially, make a bundle of 2-3' long pieces of scare tape, maybe 4-5 pieces, and bind them at one end like a pony tail.
Its a cool fixture, maybe look into just covering it with a shear fabric or patterned cutout to shine some cool patterns across the room.
They have some cool corrugated aluminum sheets with different patterns that you can cut to size and attach to the light fixture.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GSOHA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_DJWKGSAKJ9JZXQSNX1QA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this
D-Orange 10 Pcs Double Head Ended Wood to Wood Screws Plating Self-Tapping Thread 78mm*8mm for Furniture Fixing Dowel Woodworking Connector https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QCBPVYF/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_Z1CC736R88B70N0NSBTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Metric isnt really helpful in the USA. Helps to be able to do fractions in your head. Plumb, square and level are the holy trinity. Learn to use the speed square and how read a tape if you want to frame houses. The "Roof Cutter Secrets" is one of the best books on carpentry I have seen in 30 years of banging nails. It is only about layout. How to layout basicly any stair, roof, arc, rake wall, etc by using a construction calculator. Seriously, master the calculator and you will always be employed.
Either make the hole smaller or make the trim bigger.
Trim Ring for 6" Recessed Light Can Fixtures (1, White)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MK37OIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Uu69FbK4Z1YVN?psc=1
If you’re going to fill it, slide the can out and put something above the hole. Then fill with some 5/8” if that’s 3/4” so you don’t have 3/4” of filler.
Most wood handled hammers can be re-handled, you could go that route. But I've also seen the blue handled Estwing last year's. Estwing
So there is a cabinet repair plate that you can buy on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-brackets-Stainless-Furniture-Shelves/dp/B0967VZCB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=125212059514&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsfrH4Ov_8QIVhgqtBh1FaQALEAAYASAAEgJYyPD_BwE&hvadid=521194178775&hvdev=m&hvloc...
Man, I love technology. You guys are doing too much. And for what? To save $7 by not buying a small piece of plastic?
Safety glasses and a corded skillsaw would be better And I started using these Howard leight earmuffs they block out loud sounds while amplifying sound that wont damage your hearing. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=mh_s9_acsd_otopr_b2f6bsR_c2_x_0_t?pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=ZT0ADW77A24YNT48KCJ4&pf_rd_t=1201&pf_rd_p=238bc9be-8b7d-5822-b532-21e25206fb86&pf_rd_i=2439671011
Take it down and sand down the areas that are making contact. I’d use a small orbital sander like this one.
BLACK+DECKER Random Orbit Sander, 5-Inch (BDERO100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MLSS1SW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VJ8BC2861W3KVRVHM7YD
I love his title, Understanding Wood. But you are probably better off with the following for your specific aims:
Identifying Wood: Accurate Results With Simple Tools at Amazon.
Asbestos was often added to textures for increased fire resistance and tensile strength. It looks fibrous around the edges and is in poor condition. Have it sampled and analyzed by an accredited asbestos laboratory. If you wish to collect the sample, wear a P100 half mask respirator, try get as many layers of texture/plaster as possible and double bag the sample after collection. If you are looking for more sampling tips please read my ebook it's free for Amazon Kindle unlimited members and a low cost educational guide for non-members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS
I'm about to make 2 tradtional Dutch Tool Chests. 1 for me and 1 for my 1 year old son, I figure he can put his toys in it for now and in about 10 years maybe he'll want some tools for it. Hopefully!
But I plan on installing these lid supports.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMHCJRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WUP-FbRGYXFNN
Everstone TV Wall Mount for Most 32"-65" TVs Heavy Duty Dual Arm Articulating Full Motion Tilt Swivel 14" Extension Bracket,LED,LCD,OLED,Plasma,Flat Screen,Curved TV,Up to VESA 400mm,Height Adjustable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075YQRSBF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MEAXFbQY91711
In Minnesota i see them all the time. But i was never a fan of them. They would bite the bit and pull it out of the drill. But if you really like them this is a link to some on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HV6XJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z983ybHK7YPNE
Pardon my ignorance since I’m using amazon Canada- would this be something similar?
Comdox 410 Stainless Steel Self Drilling Screws Kit Set, Pan Head Phillips Sheet Metal Tek Screws Assortment Kit, Modified Truss Head, 8-18 Thread Size, 5/8" to 1-1/2" Length (Pack of 200) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071G3G7D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_db2bCb12WWT81
I couldn’t find the same product you linked
I use the Novatel T1114 hotspot. They are discontinued now but you can still get them refurbished on Amazon. I think I paid around $40 each for the two I have. They have some bad reviews but don't let that scare you, people just don't understand what is needed to make them work. The factory SIM needs to be swapped and it is inside the unit so you have to open it up and take it to a Verizon store so they can swap it out. Takes just a few minutes. They also get bad reviews for being unstable but the problem is the cheap ass power supply that comes with them. I use a 12v to 5v converter and hook them straight to my 12v battery bank. They are rock solid when you do that, I have absolutely no complaints with either of mine.
The camera system is made by ZOSI. I have three of these altogether and don't have any real complaints. They are a cheap system so the interface isn't really polished but they get the job done. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M2P0LQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dCw7CbCQ4W4FC
That is the exact system on the van but they have cheaper versions that are 720p, smaller drives, less cameras, etc. I have a couple different versions, they all work the same it's just a matter of what you need.
Everything on the camera system is 12v so I have them hooked directly to the battery system as well. I also have solar on the roof to charge the batteries. In addition to all of that I have a 3000w inverter if I need real power.
Keep in mind that you will probably not be able to get a license plate number from a camera system unless it is a really high end system and the vehicle just happens to be in the right spot. This is especially true after dark. Usually a good face shot is enough to identify someone so try to aim for that.
In case you can't tell, I despise a thief. There is not much lower than a man that would take something from someone who worked hard to get it.
A 19/22mm scaffold wrench like this guy (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TR4KQR7/ref=dp_prsubs_1) Super handy for removing and installing scaffolds and has a very easy reverse function. Relatively cheap and works on most nuts/bolts in concrete formwork. I should note though that it doesn’t replace a crescent wrench though.
Yeah, that's good stuff. But it doesn't always pertain to good carpentry practice.
Look up;
A Roof Cutter's Secrets to Framing the Custom Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/0945186061/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KBApFbXY7NB1X
Or
Carpentry and Joinery Book 2 by David R. Bates (1986-11-19) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKWOD96/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_iDApFb7VZ3ATM
Please note that these are classics and the subjects covered, principles addressed, and lessons taught will always pertain to the current jobsite.
A = 2'-10 1/2"
B = 2'-10 1/2"
C = 4' - 0 51/64 or 4' 0 13/16 in the real world.
This wont be the last time you have to do the math.
This: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.hydrix.laurene&hl=en_US
Is a great lifetime investment. I'd feel naked on the job without mine.
100x this. It's a waste of money to buy prescription safety glasses for construction. All it takes is one moment of absent-mindedness and your money's gone.
If you're not keen on the Lasik, there's another alternative: over-prescription safety glasses. They're a bit harder to get (and slightly more pricey) than regular safety glasses, but you can slip them on over your prescriptions. Thankfully, they're becoming more common now so more options are becoming available.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001922GRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Si0KBbJTYJ69D
Keep grip on a 12/12???? You’re dreaming.
Get a boot with a heavy internal, removable felt boot. Composite toe and shank will help the transfer of cold.
Something like this
I like THESE
I’d probably go with a different tool belt set up. Something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09KPVYJ5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
That is the link on "buy it again" off my amazon account but I would note, at the time I bought my last set, there were multiple different variants sold under the same order, with options selectable. I did NOT order this 45 pack, I ordered the 10 pack, which I believe were slightly different.
It's also NOT the bi-metal ones with titanium coating at the bottom of the page. Mine are not coated. They look very very similar to the ones I linked, and I THINK the manufacturer is the same.
In short, sorry, amazon canada is incredibly sketchy, fraud is absolutely rampant, and it is a pale shadow of amazon US.
Could be a number of different sizes but it is a double demountable hinge. They went out of fashion prolly well over a decade ago if not more. There days most cabinets use concealed hinges and you only find these on retro fits. Take a look here for the hinges. Most popular size would be a 1/2” because it’s easy math in the shop, but you could find 3/8, 5/8, 3/4, and 1”
I just bought myself a $600 dewalt jobsite saw (hasn't arrived yet) to upgrade from a similar scenario. I chose it because according to the internet it's about as high-quality as it gets while still being portable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VNXBN89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought these off of amazon earlier this year and they are absolutely enormous. I'm 5' 10" and I couldn't adjust them to fit my belt above my ass.
If you put some sort of pin on 1 door like this then the barrel bolt you installed should be able to keep both doors locked
Sorry it’s A Fein*… technically a brand… but anything like an oscillating saw. They make cheaper ones, here’s the one I have.
https://www.amazon.com/Bundle-Pencil-Refill-Blister-Packaging/dp/B08GCS1GJT/ref=asc_df_B08GCS1GJT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507734847771&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9537695067419308686&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&... The best pencil I’ve ever owned and it has a holder, built in sharpener, and is a mechanical pencil. Must have.
Yes you'll have to use the paint stripper multiple times, particularly if the paint is really old and lead-based.
Tips:
This is not the time to be eco-friendly. You want the nastiest, most caustic shit imaginable. I like Zip-Strip.
Blob it on, wait a few minutes and scrape off. Have a bucket or container to scrape the paint goo into.
Protect the floors under where you're stripping, cause it will eat away at floor finishing.
Protect yourself - Wear heavy duty stripping gloves. Thin nitrile ones will be eaten in a minute. Eye protection. Plenty of ventilation and fresh air!
Right angle and curved paint scrapers are incredibly helpful for this kind of work. Like these.
Amazon or any home improvement store has these for super cheap. You can change the color for the holidays or just leave it a nice natural white. :)
I would use long bolts to clamp wood to both posts so as not to damage the woodwork. Then I would install a gate with the hing side on the left. The right post could be padded out enough to cover the edge of the first step so no little limbs get caught. Hopefully that made sense. Here's the gate I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CJMMA8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you are having aches and pains and bad eye sight then fix your food intake.
Cut out processed food and drinks and meet your micro and macro nutrients RDAs. Since I started doing that I have recovery from soreness (from exercise and heavy work) faster than when I was in my 20s and I am 38 now.
I use this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.AnimaMundi.VitaminCalculator
But you can try find something similar.
You aren't old 😂😂😉
I assume other brands have these too, but if you have a Dewalt Miter Saw, get you some crown stops. The crown rests perfectly between the stops and your fence, for a near perfect cut, every time. But sometimes framed angles are way off, and if you can learn to use a coping saw, it will save you a ton of time.
Great idea I hadn't thought about that but I did think about rollerballs after you said that. Create two circles around the tree with a gap between them. Enough to keep the Lazy Susan Balanced. You can make an inside lip to keep the Lazy Susan in a circular pattern. I hope I'm explaining myself well enough. I hope I get a chance to do it.
https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Roller-Ball-Transfer-Bearings/dp/B009KASQZW
Trick to keep blades clean, spray "WD40 Dry Lube" after purchasing or sharpening, it has PTFE and dries without a residue. Any buildup flakes right off. Also lubricates the blade, keeping heat buildup to a minimum.
Get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Profile-Gauge-Large-Width/dp/B003A0BLI2
Copy the profile and go to the nearest high end trim/casing wholesaler. If they can’t match it, they can custom cut it.
buddy uses one of those little propane tank-top heaters and just turns it vertical, cooks his breakfast, then turns it back horizontal. (They're designed for this)
This should work. I believe that the image of the top piece is backwards. That top piece would go on the face of the upper sash.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everyday-Woodworking-Introduction-Woodcraft-Tools/dp/1510760164
I'd recommend this book. Great for starting off.
Perfect. But I’m not finding anything by that name (by rustoleum). Closest I’m coming up with is—
Sauce?
I used to carry two but my boss bought new a new one at one point and I recently picked this one up and I love it!
Steel or iron prefabs here
I'd replace it with one of those new metal ones
But hey DIY-er here and I know shit about fuck.
Would attaching a post with surface mounted post anchors be good enough?
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-13617000-Putty-Ounce-Walnut/dp/B0000DI7YY/
Just guessing on the color here, if you go to a hardware store you should be able to find more colors and find one that works best for you.
Of course, you could also bring up your concern with the contractor and ask that they fill it in for you :)
Pull out the rot then use wood hardener.
PC Products PC-Petrifier... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00081FW1I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
After that drys for a day then use System three wood putty
System Three 1600K20 SculpWood... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NSW4F6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Make Sure you leave the putty a little high then you can sand the area down to get it as smooth as you like. I’m not a pro but I have 100 year old house that I have been working on. These two products have been lifesavers.
If the corrugated is steel, a ferrous cutting blade in a circular saw should work.
Thanks! I found some heavy duty weldable ones. They look like normal door hinges. They may get a little squeaky over time when it rains (I’m in California, so we get very little), so I’ll just hit it with some lubricant from time to time.
Bobco Metals 3" Heavy Duty... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETNPS8M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This thing is a life saver. I use it all the time to find angles. I just framed a roof with 4 different pitches that all met in different valleys. Math gets you close but this thing dials it in.
This showed up as ones I might also like. Props for making yours, but I also saw a couple more for Milwaukee. I'm going to be honest, I like the one I linked to better. Yours sticks out the side a little too much for me. That said, I hope you do well with it. It's Amazon so there are millions of people looking for stuff. https://www.amazon.com/holder-Milwaukee-Fuel-Drill-Driver/dp/B0B3MRYDPC/ref=m_pd_aw_day0_sccl_3/135-9557876-0936215?pd_rd_w=lSUox&content-id=amzn1.sym.582df54a-c625-4452-a8fd-89ef8f1db04c&pf_rd_p=582df54a-c625-4452-a8fd-89ef8f1db04c&pf...
These EZARK blades are cheap and better than everything else. Project Farm confirmed my suspicion about them, and they outlasted everything in his testing. This 3 pack lasts me over a month of regular use.
use an enzymic Oder remover specific for cat urine. They make some in spray bottles, you may need a good soak for a few hours.
Then wash in vinegar and detergent.
You need something that can get past the table apron. Something like this might work because the clamp opens to 3.5 inches, but might not be deep enough. https://www.amazon.com/North-Bayou-Monitor-Computer-14-3lbs/dp/B01AI2YGK4.
That's why I lurk here lol . I didn't know they were a thing I needed exactly this for a project and was gonna make it myself . Thank you .
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polycell-Multi-Purpose-Polyfilla-Ready-Mixed/dp/B000TAWG6W
There are various pots of filler that are really cheap and easy to use.
Just sand it down then repaint and they'll never know (if the paint matches).
If I have a portable Bluetooth tailgate speaker with a 10w 6.5" speaker stock in it can i replace it with a say 45w speaker replacement would it work?
The tailgate speaker model:
https://www.amazon.ca/Sylvania-SPA657-B-Rechargeable-6-5-Inch-Bluetooth/dp/B095L28NN8
Hypothetical replacement speaker:
I haven't tried it but maybe something like this would help
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Inkjet-Canvas-Printable-125lbs/dp/B08XMY1W4Z
I find Colorfill pretty good for this kind of application. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unika-ColorFill-Compound-Laminate-Colorfill/dp/B00UNS5JVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=103292560956&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_viWBhD8ARIsAH1mCd4HaKCrQS9kINOKDHKMmukzouUnIoo0L8rwhc-_Eklw1nFPAzNdQUIaAuWTEALw_wcB&hvadid=444247167072&a...
What are you doing demo on usually? Do you need cut protection from cast iron tub shards and mirrors, puncture resistance for nails and screws in lumber, or mostly impact and crush protection from masonry demo? I honestly don’t use gloves all that much during the act of demo, mostly for moving the debris.
I have a pair of goat skin gloves from Vermont Glove that are great for splintery wood with nails and masonry. Much like boots, they’re expensive but can be cared for and last a long time.
I also have a couple pairs of (Wonder Grip double dipped) [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ934I8/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_B6BWJRMPBK504DBBYCP2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1] which are great all around gloves. They’re a bit warm in the summer but great in colder months. Waterproof, durable, not stupid expensive, but they can definitely trap sweat and start to stink. They’re definitely my go to for tub shards, broken mirrors, or moving new cabinets and windows when grip is lacking.
I have been in this EXACT situation and bought a bunch of flat wrenches that STILL didn’t work well.
I guess I didn’t think removing the trim would even help, but I should take a look. Oh
Predrilling a hole will always give you better results, its just a question of how much you can be bothered vs how much you care about it looking nice usually.
If you've any concerns about splitting then I'd definitely predrill.
As for the "surface dent" you are really talking about countersinking the screw head and that also is a great help for preventing splitting. In a pinch either the tip of a very large drill bit or a large Philips head will get the job done but the ideal option is an actual countersinking bit.
They are cheap enough to buy and often come with larger sets of drill bits so you might already have one. The ones with less teeth are much easier for wood.
I used to have a job hauling plywood ripped into 8'x30" and 8'x18" all day, every day... I got something like this from the CVS. it's not the exact one but the same idea.
Basically, it had a "pill shape" thing on the inside and you place that on the pressure point, where it hurts. Then strap that to your arm. It doesn't help 100% but it does help some.
I have these attached to my toolbox and my tool belt...way cheaper...
if there is brick then use an concrete screw see link below. Make sure to countersink the head into the baseboard then putty up and no one ever will now
​
I second the solution of using galvanized post caps:
https://www.amazon.com/Hartford-Standard-CECOMINOD031594-Galvanized-Postcap/dp/B00L4FIDC2
That's just the first link I found, there are undoubtedly cheaper options.
I bought the wire, threaded end pieces, wire cutter, and crimper on Amazon fairly cheap. If I did it again I would use the system that has threaded brackets. This is what I should have done:
Any benefits to these over the ratchet clamps?
Me and my guys carry around utility knives and I always keep a new knife dispenser in the Job trailer. They are tough enough to do some heavy cutting but easy to switch out when they get dull. I'm a fan of high vis tools so this is the type of knife I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Q2EOS?
Not necessarily on the belt: Ear/eye protection. Linesman's pliers or needle nose. Good screwdriver with bit storage in the handle. Something to write with / on. First aid. Advil. Something to remove splinters. Sunblock. Bandaid assortment plus this stuff to wrap so it doesn't fall off, it's flexible and still grippy unlike electrical/duct tape. Spare socks etc. Toilet paper. Wet wipes.
I had a T35 torx screw freeze up on me on a front disk brake. Wish I’d had one of these when I was trying to remove it. Klein Tools 70220 Impact Driver,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000936R6E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thus is as close as I could find for you. Will this help?
The best option is an oscillating tool like this. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS356B-Variable-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07VBB55X5/ref=sr\_1\_4\_mod\_primary\_new?crid=3DNUT2F309MUE&keywords=oscillating+tool&qid=1655227723&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=oscillat...
Sika Flex or simular product.
In the states we have the whole set pre-fabricated by a millworks.
You remove the trim on the inside and measure the rough opening of the framing (not the jamb), height, width, and depth. Not the direction the door opens and which side the hinges are on. That that info in, and have the door builder make it.
When you have your new door, you cut all the nails holding the old door in and remove it, hopefully leaving the exterior trim in place. Tilt up the new door and install.
The "and install" part has a lot to it, but watching 3-5 youtube videos should give you all the really smart tips you need.
Its best to do the door with a helper, bit if you are flying solo, get some door/window inflatable holders.
Air Wedge Bag, HTCELLE 3 Piece Strong Commercial Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088F316V6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_C2B1VK4YQ3A14E3BGW2G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1