Guess what?
Freaking Amazon sells them. Prime shipping and everything.
Pro Comps are nice, but dont last long.
Get a set of BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2s there is a reason they have been the best selling ATs since they came out in 1979. You can get the rims on amazon for $80 a piece.
Not OP but I recently put one in my 98 XJ. I used this one
It has a nice voltmeter and charges phones relatively fast. Super easy install too.
Lower your standards. Floorboards? Optional. AC? It’s an Adventure Rally, no need for luxury. Hacked electrical from PO that’s all colored red? It’s a feature now. Hunt craigslist and facebook market, and you’ll eventually find one.
The Gambler 500 is a much lower standard, the cheap beater is an excuse to get into nature, clean up, meet some fun people, and show the communities that they trot through that a bunch of weird cars can make money and have fun.
This 500 had a bigger impact on the local Oregon economy of the Klamath falls area than “the Great American Solar Eclipse”. (episode 2 covers this.)
I got these off Amazon, I have still not figured out how to hook up the day time running light feature, but I really like them. They have a nice light pattern that won't blind other drivers. Best upgrade I have done. Pics of with and without brights in the reviews.
I also did the headlight wiring upgrade that is only like $25, I can find the link somewhere if you want it. K - suspension or k - fab, I can't remember off the top of my head.
That is extremely poor advice. All lubricants breakdown over time, and should be changed out with fresh fluids. This probably come from people putting the wrong fluid in. You need to replace it with GL-4 gear oil. Most gear oils you'll find at local auto shops is GL-5 and not safe for the syncros. If you need to change it, get some MT-90 from Amazon. You'll need to buy 4qts. Also, a pump will help out a lot.
Attach your hook to one of your shackles and pull it taut or else you will jingle.
Source:
Jingled all the way
Also, your plate WILL bend from wind resistance just hanging. Went through that as well. Attach it to the front of your roller fairlead whether it be with zip ties, or buy Smittybilt's- made specifically for it.
I ran outside in the rain just to take a picture to show you as a frame of reference in case you were curious. (The bull bar is pretty decent, even for $100. It protects the winch nicely and has room for nice light setups)
http://i.imgur.com/aif3Tx2.jpg
I'm not telling you how to run your rig by any means, just giving you ideas for problems you may run into, because I already have, haha. Also advise covering up the winch to protect it from the elements and car washes. I got my neoprene cover off amazon for like 10 bucks.
Link to more pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/ze7Wv
Link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013COCXDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIHJzbJK91SHX
From my understanding Bison, Curt and Arksen are all the same rack with different branding. I found a Arksen on eBay and received a brandless rack.
Look like TruckLite (Not sure if that's the proper light for our Jeeps - was just a quick amazon search). Sure light up the road, but be warned that they're useless if you live somewhere with a good amount snow.
It was a big part of the problem I was experiencing. You could see through the gap in the bushing when it was supposed to be snug against the sway bar.
Kept getting a lot of play in the steering so I just pulled everything out and replaced it one item at a time. The tie rod and drag link were the last thing I replaced and it has improved my steering and handling to the point that it feels like a brand new car.
In chronological order this is what I replaced.
All over the course of about a month. I do not regret spending the money one bit. Upgraded the tie rod to the ZJ tie rod everyone always talks about in the forums for 149.00 (all hardware included)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DQT40XO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is why I hate poly bushings. You gotta grease them like a pig at a county fair.
Get one of those spray cans of White Lithium grease and some Super Lube and just soak everything. You might have to take apart some of the suspension to get at the offending areas.
If there are grease points, get Super Lube in a cartridge and have a dedicated grease gun for it.
Cheapest ones I could find on Amazon. No huge problems with mud on the Jeep anymore -- actually kinda nice to not get mud in the car when the window's down.
A lot of cheap flares want you to cut the pinch seam above the rear tires. As much a you want to, don't (unless you plan to weld that yourself later). If the more expensive options don't require you cut the pinch seam, its worth it - pay the $500 for them.
The flares I bought wanted me to cut that entire seam except for six inches (which had two pinch welds and that's it. Instead of cutting all that, I did a cut-and-fold to preserve the pinch welds, body sealed it, and then used a heat gun, saw, and plenty of cursing to reform the ABS flares to fit around the modified fender well. It turned out alright in the end but was tons of effort.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9CTJ6N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Am able to fit 33x10.5" with a RC 3" lift + IRO 1" shackles.
Seems like even people with 00 and earlier have problems with it. Also it seems like people forget you need tow hook brackets to attach it
I bought my brush guard on craigslist and the guy had it on his 93, bolted right up to my 01 sport. So factory brush guards fit all models..... but aftermarket doesn't always
I used the same material a month or so ago on my roof. With just the butyl liner it decreased the heat from the roof a little bit, but did a great job of making it less of a tin can. I ended up putting a layer of the green foam deadener over the top of that, then my headliner.
Works fantastic for keeping the heat down, wind and rain noise down from the roof.
Going to put some under the carpet on the trans tunnel when I redo carpet.
The noico is a great price - Amazon has it, but ebay also has a few vendors that will knock some bucks off with a sale now and then.
Okay, first, don't believe anything that the PO told you.
Get a 3M Eraser Wheel for the residual adhesive.
Get a decent multimeter and/or test light to resolve the electrical issues. Although your window issues are probably caused by broken solders in the door switches or broken wires in the door boots.
If working on the A/C system, invest in a good manifold and gauge set with vacuum pump. They're all over Amazon and eBay.
General rule of thumb, don't fix something that's not broken. Definitely inspect the brakes, but if there's life left on the bads and rotor, leave them alone. There are probably plenty of other places that money could be better spent on.
I was having issues with my heater hoses rubbing on the hood as well as other places. This wrap is tough and has a really good temperature range ( -40°C to 125°C ).
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Here is a link if anyone is interested, I purchased the 1.25" x 10 ft model:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G5MW7ZH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you have a smart phone I highly recommend this thing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KV3J8M2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wUjCub165EVWN , it'll give you engine codes but also real time data like revs since you don't have a tach. Just for future issues
Okay I figured it out. After searching for expanding anchors and expansion bolts as suggested I found an image of one and they are Tri-Fold Exploding Pop Rivets with a rubber cap end. Kinda like these;
Not sure I really want to get a pack of rivets and a rivet gun to install literally one rivet though lol. I probably could have put this on r/whatisthisthing but thought it might be helpful here too.
welder I used 50-80 amps. My first time actually welding so I was just trying to figure things out. But you can probably tell by how the welds look 😆
Door hinge pins are cheap. I know you said that only one pin is bad, but do both while you're in there. Both are worn from opening and closing the driver's door a million times for more than 20 years.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-38439-Cherokee-Hinge-Repair/dp/B000O04H82
There are a bunch of videos on Youtube showing how to replace the hinge pins yourself. Most people even leave the doors on the vehicle and replace the hinge pins one at a time. Here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7h3KuGQRT8
The only time I've seen people replacing doors because of hinge pins is when people let their hinges get so bad that the door latch area slams against the catch and the edge of the door gets cracked/broken around the latch. As long as it hasn't gotten that bad, you should be good just doing $15 worth of hinge pins.
Looks like Amazon has one. IIRC I bought mine for $10 at napa.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000CRDLZM
Do yourself a favor and buy one. I almost guarantee your belt isn't tight enough. The first review on there describes how to use it. 140-160 lbs on a used belt (used = run for longer than 15 minutes).
Take a close look at your power steering pulley. I replaced my PS pump 1K miles ago with a cheap Advance Auto one and the new one started slowly leaking from the pulley onto the belt. Also make sure your water pump isn't dripping on the belt.
edit: fixed stuff
Replaced every light in the gauge cluster with a 194 LED. I purchased a pack of 20 from Amazon. Best $9 so far! No, the don't dim..... but it looks better, brighter and cleaner looking.
Link MF, do you need it? https://www.amazon.com/194-AMAZENAR-Interior-Replacement-Dashboard/dp/B013NT3MKY
Forget the AAL, do it right from the beginning. $250 shipped from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1463-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKFHW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510251782&sr=8-3&keywords=rubicon+express+leaf+springs
edit: $250 is for two leaf packs. Shipped. When you buy cheap, you buy twice.
UPDATE!
The reason I originally asked was because it's getting in the way of where my new hitch would bolt on. Looks like I'll have to remove this, then make a bracket that'll hold up a new one.
Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3frMBbCHHJP47
Oddly my Amazon is showing it as unavailable but that is the way to go, if you still have issues after that then check your fuel pressure at the rail.
Nope, it was $15 through (Amazon)[RoRex Jeep Cherokee XJ Accessories, Windshield Sunshade, Banner, Sun Shield, Fits Every Year XJ 1984-2001, Custom fit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9KW1H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UqT2CbABTSC50]. Gotta have a sun shade here in Arizona, and I didn't have a spare laying around so I figured why not haha. Fits perfect tho, paired with the tint the thing stays nice and dark/cool inside.
Amazon has some black Mamba Moab knock offs for cheap right now. They are a 15” wheel unlike the Rubicon 16” wheels. I have had my eye on these for a while and almost put a set on my old TJ
Just as a side note, if you're looking for inexpensive but good quality oil, try Amazon Basics instead of Walmart. It's cheap and it's rated as one of the top oils you can buy. There's a bunch of videos of guys testing it and it came out on top pretty much every time. I've been using it in everything and it's been great.
It generates ozone (o3). It’s a highly volatile molecule, it kills bacteria and eliminates smells pretty good. If you have fire damage of water damage in your house, company’s that fix it will usually use an ozone generator to get the smell out.
I ordered mine on amazon, it was like 35$. I vacuumed my car ( esp the seats). Ran a extension chord through the window and used painters tape to seal the gap in the window.. ran the ozone generator for about an hour.
There’s still a very mild smel, I wanna pull the seats, vacuum under them and just do a better, deeper vacuum job. Then do another hour or two ozone treatment. I think that’ll totally get rid of the smell... and shampoo to get all the stains out of the carpet while Doing it🤘
WSTA Ozone Generator Air Purifier 400mg/h Multipurpose Ozone Machine for Water, Food, Home and Office Using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N645BVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZVjYDb7QY8GEB
Here is the link for the louvers. Installation was very straight forward! I just placed them where I wanted them on the hood, marked where the holes would drill through, and then stepped the cutout in about a half of an inch. I used a zip wheel to cut out the center of the pattern on the hood, drilled 1/8” holes, and then used the supplied black pop rivets to attach to the hood. Took me about an hour or so from start to finish!
POR-15 fanboy here. That is what it was made for. That very problem, in the same area. Buuuuuuut, you have to follow the directions and take precautions around bolts and nuts. All you need is the little small kit on Amazon. Yes, the little baby cans. Get one extra baby can.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077J66P27/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_W2pMEbWK9Q3D4
I got the same setup an was looking for a light bar that fit the top flat area of the bullbar. Fellow Reddit jeeper pointed me into this direction. It's perfect and super bright.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T9BJ2GE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EAG No it’s not difficult to install. I had two of my friends put it on while I was working on the fender flares. Took them like 45 min from start to finish.
One thing is when you take the stock bumper off there is going to be a little strange ball, you’re gonna have to relocate that it’s the vaccine chamber. I took mine off for now but will be relocating it soon
I just picked these up for my heap for the same reason. I plan on putting them in the space by the brake booster. Run a low gauge wire from the battery along the firewall to the buss bar and then break out circuits from the bus bar to the relay/fuse box.
Blue Sea Systems Common 100A 5-Gang Mini BusBar with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OTJ89Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mrWKBb4N4G7C1
ONLINE LED STORE 12-Slot Relay Box [6 Relays] [6 Blade Fuses] [Bosch Style Relays] [Easy Installation] [OEM Factory Look] - Fuse Relay Box for Automotive and Marine Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KJNPHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IsWKBb8ZKMJ74
I bought these for my 96 Sport. Very bright and clean white. Had them since March and no issues. Had to bend one of the blades a little wider for better contact as one headlight didn’t want to stay on during installation but it is plug and play. Very happy and highly recommended.
(Pair) 5''x7'' 6''x7'' High Low Beam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRXTX32?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
The difference from stock is night and day
I just ordered this kit from Amazon a few minutes ago. It is'nt everything OP did but it's a start. Les Schwab wanted $750 to do all the work so I said screw it and I will do it all myself. I also bought new front coils, the ones that came with the upcountry package and a few other things. It looks pretty straight forward.
Sorry it took so long. Got kind of distracted. That pretty much has all of my Jeep stuff in that .rar and a neat little gem that I use for my recycle bin icon, it's called CEL (Check Engine Light). Pretty much you set the logo for when it's empty to the one that is not illuminated, then when the bin contains contents you set it for the one that is illuminated (like most Jeep drivers usually see).
Sorry it took so long. Got kind of distracted. That pretty much has all of my Jeep stuff in that .rar and a neat little gem that I use for my recycle bin icon, it's called CEL (Check Engine Light). Pretty much you set the logo for when it's empty to the one that is not illuminated, then when the bin contains contents you set it for the one that is illuminated (like most Jeep drivers usually see).
I suggest looking for an XJ with:
The extra uni-body pillars of the 4-door version actually help the XJ flex less while rockcrawling.
Also checkout this book...
> High-Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ Builder's Guide 1984-2001
website:
Its been a little while since I've dropped a transmission on one of this bad boy, but if I remember correctly the tranny venty doesn't have the plastic adapter on the end. Look at this picture of the vent tube
Duct tape is great for keeping your fender on (from experience lol). Wago 221 series connectors are amazing for wiring, they're simply spring loaded wire nuts. Work fantastic for stranded wire, especially in high vibration environments since they only tighten over time. Obviously they aren't a replacement for crimp connectors in an engine bay, but for interior and stationary stuff they're a godsend once you get over the 25¢ ea price. https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B017NQWDY4/ref=asc_df_B017NQWDY4 JB weld is amazing, I guess I never considered having it in my toolbox for some reason.
Yes.
It’s a warbled out oil pump. Happens to pretty much all of them.
Let me guess, cold is fine, off idle fine?
Replace the oil pump with a Melling M167HVS.
Problem solved. Easy one afternoon job.
Stay far away from CSF. They make grossly underperforming radiators and are only coasting on their reputation. Get a Mishimoto and a Hayden cooler for the transmission.
Yes, a tranny cooler will heat up the radiator... but that's a good thing! Where do you think that heat would be going otherwise? Not overheating your tranny is just as important as not overheating the engine.
It’s their OEM design. They make (or made) an improved version that’s basically a tri-Y header that looks like a knock off fancy one. I’ve ran one for years without issues. The spring tube pieces of shit break routinely.
ATP Automotive Graywerks 101212 Exhaust Manifold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EQLCU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V23K28G42CAKG7YCPPQ1
I did have one crack after 120K. They replaced it free of charge.
Luz LED Purishion de 10 x 3/4 pulgadas. Luz redonda para faro delantero y trasero, luz indicadora para camión, coche, remolque, furgoneta, caravana o barco, Ambar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR3G474/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R6AJQZ12FYNJ1RVNVZHV
I am about the same, but, I can grind really well... lol!
Anyway, I was looking at this kit:
They also have a front bumper kit.
Lots of Cherokees have compressors made by Sanden. They're in stock. Here is one that fits Sanden 508 compressors (which it'll say in the metal casting itself on the top surface of most Sanden compressors) https://www.amazon.com/Sanden-Compressor-Clutch-Serpentine-Natural/dp/B01DS6O15M
Here's the one that I got that's supposed to be a direct replacement for the one on my 2000 XJ, also in stock on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZUGBZG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details The way I found that part number was I went onto Rockauto and saw they had 2 listings for AC Clutches (both out of stock) but I never order anything from Rockauto anyway. I just use that website to get the part number I need, then go look elsewhere. I just copied and pasted that part number into google and found somebody selling it on Amazon.
eBay is another good place to look too if you're hunting for parts. Just type a part number into eBay and some savvy seller on there will have advertised their part with that part number (or at least a cross referenced part number) and it'll pop up if it's out there. I always check 3 sites for parts: Rockauto versus eBay versus Amazon. I go with whatever is going to be the cheapest. Rockauto can sometimes really kill you on the shipping charges though.
Rough Country 1.5" Wheel Adapter/Spacer (fits) 87-06 Wrangler TJ YJ | Cherokee XJ | Grand Cherokee ZJ |5x4.5/5x5|1092RED, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNTD7Z9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AWFQDFDC6DWTJ3WXJK6E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah man! Do it! It’s the Calais Extemely Bright H3 LED bulbs from Amazon: Calais Extremely Bright LED H3 COB Chips 30W Golden Yellow Color LED Fog Light Bulbs Plug-n-Play(pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTMT01G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3432BZ3SY29W6SNC0G4F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The bulbs are plug and play, but I modified them anyway so that I could rotate them 90 degrees in the fog casing - just about doubled the brightness I got from the default position. Just had to cut two tiny notches on the metal rim of the bulb.
The yoke is the thing on the input to the axle where the driveshaft bolts on with the little bolts and two metal straps. That yoke is attached to the pinion gear that drives the ring gear in the axle, hence "pinion yoke".
Where the u-joint sits in the pinion yoke, it's centered by two tiny tabs on either end of the u-joint caps. These can break off if there is driveshaft vibration. The strap style u-joint retainers (like the stock ones on a Jeep XJ) are prone to allowing wobble or simply ripping apart under load. That said, it's either broke or not. Don't fuck with it unless you have to, as its not the easiest thing to remove (unless you have a large impact wrench) and you can fuck up the pinion bearing preload.
Fords use the same size u-joint in their older vehicles, so you can simply drill the threads out of the XJ yoke and replace the little straps with u-bolts that are significantly stronger and less prone to snapping off or rounding off when you go to remove them. Takes a few minutes to drill the four holes out. This is what I'm talking about.
For an otherwise fine rear driveshaft, you need two 1310 u-joints and replacement straps (or upgrade to the u-bolts I suggested). You may try to reuse the straps and bolts, but don't they are not designed to be reused.
It’s a “constant velocity” joint, just not what most think of when “CV” joint is used. That term means more than the things most common in FWD axles.
The XJ front driveshaft has a “double-Cardan” CV style joint on the joint nearest to the transfer case. The reason it’s like this is for a standard slip-yoke single u-joint on either end driveshafts, the yokes are required to be roughly parallel to each other. The CV joint allows for the yokes to be at different, non-complementary angles. There is some engineering involved, but basically in a regular driveshaft the shaft itself may not be spinning at exactly the speed as the two yokes on either end, except when the angles are zero, which can result in vibration. Just trust me on this, i.e. hit the “I believe” button.
So, with a transfer case with all the gears parallel, one side or the other can be complementary to one axle, generally the rear, and have a standard slip yoke and single u-joint per attachment point and the other, generally the lesser used end, will not be able to be parallel will have a double-Cardan CV joint (or something else that has a CV function, often like the cup & socket styles you fine in FWD axles.)
Okay, enough with that bullshit.
To do the front shaft, you will need three u-joints. They are all identical. Additionally, you’re going to want to get a Spicer centering yoke 211355X and a new seal. The centering yoke uses a needle style grease injection as it doesn’t have a zerk, but just a small diameter hole to grease it.
Then some Spicer 1310 non-greasable U-joints for the rest of your driveshafts, 5 in all.
Good luck and have fun!
The kit from Metra goes anywhere from 60-80$ and it comes with the brackets and the bezel. I cut into the dash subframe to get the brackets to line up even though I didn't need to for the head unit to fit. I just used a Sawzall blade and some elbow grease to get through the plastic. The unit I got is a cheap Amazon one I saw a guy install into a work truck on YouTube. I haven't ran the backup camera yet because I still need to get my smittybilt xrc bumper and tire carrier swapped over from my old xj but ill put up pics when I get that installed and working. He had to run a toggle switch for the video feed to come onto the screen but I plan to get a few more cameras and run them under the fenders so I have good lines of sight for rocks and approaches on the trails I can't see.
For like 200 less than most units and backup camera included, I'm happy with it. I got the 1 gig ram version so it's not as fast as my phone but it works just fine for gps/video/Bluetooth music&calls and even hooks up to wifi so you can try to get more android apps going on it.
This is the one that fit my 98 XJ. It has inlet and outlet or 2.5" I'd grab a caliper and measure your leftover inlet and outlet to make sure it's the same, I've read that they vary even in the same years with 2.5 and 2.25" piping
Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection Conventional 10W-30 Diesel Engine Oil (1-Gallon, Single Pack) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LH7KO1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XH475MY6YC5T5MZVMEK7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This?
You can press the old bearing out and press in a new one. Will post a link shortly
Link: Omix-Ada 17104.83 Water Pump Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOQ7OQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7AMZW4NK1VQ4T590QDWY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
PB Blaster, or your bolt lube of choice. Even if you won’t be doing the lift for a while, start spraying some of the bolts down.
Now some of these things I’ll list you probably done have all of them. But eventually over time you may collet them as tools.
Get a big 3ton Jack. It seems like overkill now, but once you get 31 or 33” tires you need the extra height the get the wheels off the ground.
(4) 2 ton stands, 2 more 1/2 ton ones if you want to set the axle up on its own. Do not buy from harbor freight.
Angle grinder and some cut off wheels.
You’ll need a 1/2” ratchet and set of sockets for it as the leaf spring bolts are a pain in the ass sometimes.
Put the bump stops in.
Remove the rear sway bar if you want.
If you got a new adjustable track bar it may come with a new bolt for the axle side, I have to slip in a 17mm crows foot socket to hold the rear nut in place while I torque it.
Air tools come in handy with an impact gun.
Torque wrench.
I can second this. Super easy to install the k-suspension wiring relay. I put on these led headlights too. Super bright. Really good illumination to the sides so I always see people/cyclists BEFORE turning at night. AAAAAND it’s got that DOT cutoff. So once you aim them you shall not be blinding others.Jeep LED headlights
I got these for pretty cheap, they have a very good spread, nice sharp cutoff, and have a great distance. 100% recommended
Nilight - NI23C-18W 2PCS 18W Flood LED Work Light Driving Lights Led Light Bar Off Road Led Lights Flush Mount for Jeep Truck Tacoma Bumper ATV UTV,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5AAX5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Fw7bGb19H9V5H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Multipurpose-Spray-Adhesive-AB-530-4-77/dp/B0131SZ660/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3m+super+77+spray+adhesive&qid=1611021448&sprefix=3m+super&sr=8-4 I used this. I sprayed both the shell and the tapestry, let it sit for about 1-2 minutes (to get tacky) and then combined the two together. I didn’t have an issue with it. It was super sticky and is locked on there for sure.
This is amazing, I need a headliner
Forest Tapestry Wall Hanging Starry, Natural Trees on Night Sky Tapestry Home Living Room Decor Galaxy Fabric for Bedroom Wall art Blanket King Size, 71 x 90 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W83B7DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_nGabGbH0C0R3E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just recently redid my muffler, pretty easy job if you have some PB Blaster, a BFH, and patience. Getting the damn thing off the stock pipes could be a beast, I ended up cutting mine off.
If you plan on replacing just the cat, they can be found online for a reasonable price. For a Walker one, it runs about $150 on Amazon.
Death valley is amazing for dispersed camping and trails. Get out charles wells book:
3.- amazon sells some kits that come with remotes and easy-ish wiring setup.
If you have a center console its in there, or if you just have the dome light its hiding in there. Theres a module for remote entry, you can get a new one with a remote paired with it and swap it or you can replace the module with aftermarket and use your own remotes. This is the one i used- Universal Car Keyless Entry... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2SWX2C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Lots of writeups online about replacing the module, and with a little bit of digging you can find the wires for lock and unlock and hook it to the new module.
This is very similar to my setup. Here is how mine differed:
your rear has two large drawers that are three feet deep. The drawer slides have been rated at 300 lbs so I do not need external support. I placed a lid of sorts over the drawer to work as a work platform when the drawers are out.
I have not had any passengers in years, and I have other vehicles if I need to transport people. So I outright removed the seats. They take up a massive amount of space. My instillation was more or less permanent. I have access to the seat storage from the top as the platform is hinged. One side is a very large open space I use for recovery rope and other larger items, and the other side has a cross partition so I fit smaller items neatly. I also use the floorboards in that area for large items, ie powered cooler/refrigerator, backpack packs, etc.
I’m 6’3” so sleeping diagonal works for me, but I’m going to look at a two door passenger seat so it folds all the way forward instead of just barely upright. That should give me a foot or so of room.
This is an amazing mattress I recommend to everyone super comfy and tiny. Feels like a standard mattress.
Best Choice Products 4in Thick Folding Portable Customizable Twin Mattress Topper w/Bonus Carry Case, High-Density Foam, Washable Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01INZBBZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PTaWFbHWDNFD6
I’m looking at this for the colder camping (I live in Alaska)
Diesel Air Heater Forced Air Parking Heater 5KW 12V + Golden LCD Switch + English Remote Control for Bus Van https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WNQFCSR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wfaWFbJYZ911X
EAG Steel Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier Fit for 1984-2001 Cherokee XJ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPBYC65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ruxSFbDQ26Z7X
Looks pretty much like that one. Not a bad carrier, probably need the spindle to make it work right.
Belt too loose, I bet. The xj belt needs to be tighter than you think wise. Krikit II on Amazon is a good tension gauge. Shoot for 120 ft lbs.
Gates 91132 Belt Tension Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRDLZM/
I just replaced mine this fall with this one of amazon and it's worked great so far. Fit right in no hassles at all. Engine temp stays a solid 5-10 degrees cooler now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you don't have one, they're pretty cheap on Amazon: link I use one of these on every electrical project on my jeep for sure
There are cheaper ways to do it but this is simple and convenient. The other easy option is ome springs for the rear although they're sold individually and this seller only has 1 left in stock. https://www.amazon.com/Old-Man-Emu-CS033RB-Spring/dp/B00HR0GU14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489122512&sr=8-1&keywords=xj+ome+leaf
Also, the kit you originally linked is about $50 cheaper on amazon.
A little bit of Google-fu says they might be made by Skyjacker and are the same as the Skjacker Hydro 7000 shocks, but take that for what it's worth.
For regular shocks, I'm running these right now.
Front: Monroe 550016 Gas-Magnum 65 Shock Absorber
Rear: Monroe 550017 Gas-Magnum 65 Shock Absorber
I had Bilstein 5100s on for a while, but I ended up going back to the Monroes due to the softer ride (got a 3yr old riding in the back seat who I have to take into consideration).
A suggestion for you would be to figure out 2-3 different options for shocks and save them to a list in Amazon, then check back from time to time and see what the used pricing looks like. Quite often you'll catch stuff for stupid low prices due to blemishes and returns. For example, I picked up one of the Monroe 550017 shocks for $12/shipped last week that was listed as being "used" due to cosmetic blemishes. No shit, it's brand new though & still has the plastic band on it holding the shock compressed for shipping. Don't need it right now but the price was too good to pass up, so it's going to sit in my "box o'parts" until I replace the shocks in another year or so. By then I'll probably have found a matching 550017 on the cheap to pair with it.
Another suggestion for you is to keep an eye on Craigslist. No idea where you're at, but you might luck out. That's how I found my 5100s on the cheap, and they were still new in the box with the bands holding them compressed.
Those are $57 on Amazon . I just ordered them the other day and should be delivered Sunday. I'll let you know how they are when I install them.
They are the LED headlights from Truck-Lite. Here's the Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-27450C-Headlamp/dp/B007ED7HNY
Edit: Just realized you weren't asking what the headlights were. Well, here's the link for anyone who wanted to know anyway...
amazon link a bit on the expensive side but they do come with bulbs, I opted to buy the hella bulbs but I put one in each housing to test and couldn’t really tell a difference so I just saved the bulbs for if the Hellas burn out.
I did the same a long time ago, got some hate on the cherokeeforum from some crusty ole bastards for making it potentially "too cold". Pshhhhhh.
Afaic, it's a must do mod. It takes away heat from the main radiator, and it eliminates the terrible barb fittings that always leak (I just hose clamped the things). I got mine for $65 on amazon a long time ago - not really sure why the price jumped so much since, but I'm sure there's similar ones for cheaper.
I was just going to grab these on Amazon because they were cheap. The weather here has been super nasty so I won’t be able to make it to a junk yard for a little while. I do need to go for some other things though. Thanks for the help!
In the rear of my 2000 I got Monroe Air Shocks put in in the meantime between putting in new leafs, they're amazing. They were only about $100 on Amazon (CAD).
Here is a link to the ones that fit my Jeep, if yours is a 97 it should be good too, but I'd double check just in case.
Monroe MA765 Max-Air Air Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000C57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oyfJAb32J93GP
Bumper: OR-Fab XJ Front HD Bumper
Headlights: Truck-Lite knockoffs from Amazon
Got the idea from this post and made a desk clock with the old timing set and crank pulley from the MJ. Also used some 1" iron pipe and a fitting to make the stand. The clock mechanism was $9 on amazon.
Don’t forget about amazon, bought a set of thesefalk AT Signed up for the amazon credit card and got $70 off my purchase. Ended up paying about $300 for the tires and 60 for install. Plus they were prime so free shipping.
I bought from here : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792NCNXS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_T4FRBbZ0QY99E
Go to YouTube and look up “decal center hinge” technique, that is what I used to apply these decals. https://i.imgur.com/QsceW2i.jpg I also used a spray bottle with a couple drops of Johnson and Johnson’s baby shampoo to wet down window immediately before application. You’ll need the spray, at a minimum an old credit card (I had previously bought a window tint kit on Amazon for $10) and a razor blade to trim it to fit the window. I took my time and was very patient and both sides took me about 45 minutes total to complete. It was a fun little project.
Looking back, I should have installed it a little higher, cutting the top stripe a little thinner, so if someone gets one, keep that in mind. Also, align the decal to the bottom edge of the window.
Or you could just buy the right tool on Amazon. Here you go, use a socket over the end for a cheater bar. Bondhus 31860 Tagged and Barcoded T60 Star Tip Hex Key L-Wrench with ProGuard Finish, 7.2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KAAR38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OuK2Cb3NVZ5A2
There's a pretty nice new kind of doors I saw on Amazon actually. https://www.amazon.com/EAG-Tubular-Mirrors-1984-2001-Cherokee/dp/B07QSPXDLN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=cherokee+doors&qid=1560089939&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
I think I like mine more still but these are unique
Yes they're cheap, but are they quality? I'd say no. You can piece together a kit from RockAuto for $10-15 more than that kit costs using name brand parts. They might not be the best, but I'd bet it's better than what that eBay kit is offering. I don't trust those bundles.
For example, the wheel bearings: WJB WA513084 are $32 ea.
or on Amazon right now:
Wheel hubs and bearings are $7.77 for Centric 406.34003E Click buying options and Amazon Warehouse
Transfer case drop. They’re cheap and work great for your needs. We have ran them for years on different rigs with no issue.
Try and find a kit that is adjustable (multiple shims). That way you can start with 1/2” of drop to see if that resolves the issue. If not, you can drop further. I wouldn’t exceed 1” of drop.
It’s really easy to install, spray everything down with penetrating oil first. And I recommend getting a stud puller if u don’t already have one (I have this style and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QX35G1L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ifZKFb0GPPX22)
U-POL Raptor Tintable Urethane... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KQCTQ3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought the tint from these site.
Custom Coat Camouflage Series 3 Ounce (Gray Green Federal Standard Color #34432) Urethane Tint Concentrate for Tinting Truck Bed Liner Coatings - Epoxy Resin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSGT777/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jwmKFbHGTYRFZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also watched a bunch of YouTube videos and used a self etching primer
I hate how most aftermarket horns are loud but sound "whiny" instead of authoritative. I think it's an asian market thing.
I spent the cash on these guys and have been very happy with them.
It's screwed directly to the bumper. And thanks! While it's a Reese apparently Reese and Curt are owned by the same company and this one looks identical
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EP0HPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_3XRBFbQ1988BY
Well, those OEM racks are basically hen's teeth.
If you know your rear springs are good, the Smittybilt rear carrier is about the lowest cost option. Weighs damn near 300lbs though. I've seen the OEM racks go for $4-500 when you can find them and they often are rusted as fuck as they were fairly thin gauge steel.
7" 3D LED Headlights Bulb with Halo White DRL & Amber Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08137TP2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-ynhFb0CQG3JG they’re these
Search ATO fuse terminal to find the pins the fuses plug into, and re-pin the problem circuits one wire at a time. If you remove the panel, disconnect the body connectors, unscrew the hood cable handle, and feed the fuse panel over the column support, you can just about hold it in your lap.
Here you go, like this. Replacing the whole plastic panel over bad connections to get probably just as bad is not what I'd consider an option.
Also, that amazon link is grossly overpriced, but a fine example.
There's a brand on Amazon called Harpy Motors.
I just used a can of their Chili Pepper Red Pearl on some lower quarter panel guards and it was a very good match. $40-is bucks get a can and a can of clear coat. but it looks like a single can of paint can be bought. I did notice a dribble from a seam on the top of the can, so it looks like they're mixing by the paint code and filling a can on order. I like it MUCH better than the Duplicolor Perfect Match cans.
All from amazon. The braided lines are RC’s extended brake lines. The hard lines are from inline tube.
RC: $90 Inline: $100
It’s a Surco S4560. It’s 45” wide and 60” long. The company page is here: http://www.surcoinc.com/Roof/Basket_Racks/Safari_Rack.html
And Amazon has it here: https://www.amazon.com/Surco-S4560-45-Safari-Rack/dp/B00029KBGW
The Amazon listing says it doesn’t fit my 2001 Cherokee, but since the company says it does and it’s currently on top of my Jeep I’m inclined to believe that Amazon is wrong. On the Surco page it also lists needing an adapter that connects to the factory roof rails.
It seems pretty sturdy and the PO had the spare mounted up there.
I’ve had this in my Amazon cart for a year now. One day I’ll pull the trigger. Maybe when I’m out of other problems to fix haha
Like u/RumpleForeskin0w0 said, I got them from Amazon for $80 bucks. They are substantially brighter than the stock headlights and work well in winter (I live in Illinois so not the worst winters but we get plenty of snow). Here is an Amazon link to the ones I purchased.