What are /r/FixedGearBicycle's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

On Sunday I raced the 121st Catford CC Hillclimb up York's Hill in Kent, S.E. England. It's claimed to be the oldest continually running cycle race in the world, though they did miss a few years for the war.

I've been struggling with illness so was somewhat off the pace but it still hurt enough. My teammate Richard Bussell won in 1:50, riding 56" fixed.

Verdict: Vilano Fixed

I typed out my methodology before finding the frame:

A few clues to look at: 1) Dropouts 2) Braze-ons

Dropouts are probably the best clue. They're stamped - cut from a flat piece of metal - as opposed to forged. This points to a cheaper frame. Look at some common fixed frames and compare the dropouts. Ex: you can rule out Kilo TT.

If you find a few frames that use the same dropouts, look at the braze-ons like seatpost clamp, waterbottle mounts, cable guides. This frame has none of the three.

After that you can look at geometry like slope of the top tube, spacing on the head tube, etc.

I've ruled out: Kilo TT, Dawes SST, Fuji Track, Fyxation, State, SE Draft/lager,

The day before the actual Paris Roubaix race there's a Sportif for fans to ride the course. I rode fixed for the longest distance option (173km) which means I was one of the few people to ride a fixed wheel bike around the Roubaix velodrome this weekend...

I'm in the foreground. Rode my On One Pompino with 35c Compass tyres, 74".

Strava

Cheapest and easiest way:

Find out the spacing of your drop outs, get a disc brake wheel of that spacing (it is almost assuredly 135 mm, and if you already have disc brakes you don't need a new wheel), install one of these and install the wheel backwards:

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Ultim8-Single-Speed-Cassette/dp/B008ZTLVSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523224719&sr=8-1&keywords=6+bolt+cog

or if you wanna be fancier

http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopdisc.html

The velosolo website actually has a ton of information on getting your chain line right on the off chance you have something wonky going on but a SS mtb should match up perfectly just by flipping the wheel and installing a bolt on cog.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

the donut stem cap?

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Unbranded Super Team it was luckily stocked so I received it within 1 week without paying the extra $200 expedite shipping directly from source.

Project Shark was sadly returned. It turned out my fear came true, the frame was too small for me.

Currently using this bar tape. First time wrapping from the top-down and it has held up great. I try to avoid getting my hands dirty while riding. On longer rides, I wear gloves and wash them after 3-4 uses (currently have two pairs and have a third on order). I’ve had this bar tape on since 6 March.

My Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/691573160 Finished in the main group, Aventon got 2nd so we were super stoked. Hardest RHC I've ever done. I got stuck behind 2 very bad crashes, and slowed up by 3 minor ones. Came to almost a complete stop when I ran over someone's wheel. 2 riders ended up breaking their collarbones/arm. Can't wait for Milan! I'll have the full race up from Tristan and myself, and I'll have an edited version with my speed/cadence/HR data. Gotta wait till the states for the last one.

We actually had these in stock yesterday, they all sold out. We are going to run the 2nd batch through Sunday. Once they're gone they're gone. I really dig them. Plus check out the vid :D

https://vimeo.com/92084528

Thanks! It was pretty quick, not blazing, but not exactly slow. I think had it not rained, we would've been pushing the pace even higher.

Here's my strava from the race: https://www.strava.com/activities/561445455/overview

Edited version of RHC BK9. Full version soon.

Recap: Qualified 28th, finished 17th. After 2 restarts, the race went off and immediately started splitting apart. I was basically sprinting between groups for the first 6 laps, dodging some early crashes/poor handling. After making it to the chase group (Colin Strickland went off as soon as I bridged to the group), Aldo controlled the pace and shut down any and all attacks very quickly. I managed to pull away to attempt to work with the Bahumer rider, but he didn't jump on. No one did. Ever. It was harder enough to get into a decent position to attack, but I launched it from the back of the group because it was the only straightaway long enough to pull away.

The gap stayed at 20-30 seconds. On the penultimate lap, 4 riders went down in front of me, opening a gap. I lost positioning but managed to bridge past a few riders in the shattered field. All in all it was a good race, but I wish the chase group made more attempts to get away rather than save matches for 2nd. Huge thanks to Aventon, Giro Cycling, Crank Cycling, and Castelli for all the support! And of course my friends, family and girlfriend for putting up with me!

LONDON IS CALLING.

Ratio: 48/14 Strava File: https://www.strava.com/activities/561...

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/8331115218.html?orderId=79731141059937&productId=32600069764

This is the seller who i purchased them from. I'd highly recommend him. He got me the exact colour and size i needed in a few days and postage to Australia only took about 2 weeks

The Leader Kagero is another funny one. In Spanish 'Cagar' means 'to shit'. A cagero is a guy who shits.

(In Japanese, Kagero means 'heat haze'. I get the feeling they were going for the Japanese meaning)

here are the details of the ride.

Basically I was in a group, 4 mountainbikers, and 2 fixed gear bikes. Ratio was at 46-17 and changed it halfway through the ride since it kept slipping when I skid.

Cramps were the greatest enemy, not the ascents. I wasn't really that fit to go on a century but props to the others for waiting for me when I lagged behind.

This being their first fixie, i think a rear brake is important for learners. I remember once I converted my bike, I needed to get used to using the pedals and cages properly to control my speed. And once I learned it, it def didn't happen over night. In the words of Chang, "SAFETY FIRST!"

[US, SF Bay Area][FREE] A pair of used Schwable Pro One TT 700x28C tubeless tires

These have maybe 1000 miles on them. Both tires have punctures that will seal with a good sealant. But I recommend just running these with tubes. Hoping someone will find good use for these tires that were around $160 new for the pair.

Free local pickup. I don't really want to ship these, but if you want to venmo me for a flat rate box I can drop it off at USPS.

Don't mind at all:

• Camera - GoPro HERO7 Black

• Chest strap

• Pivot arms (to dial-in camera angle)

Purchased through my LBS Mike's Bikes in Mt Pleasant SC. Picked up today. First fixed gear for me. This will be my lunch and dinner bike. More photos here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMBSAewBpTXj9-a28hdBdwzA5Yq-6uo4-ixVq6jBtRSmz9_1Ndsim9O75lgXJSlRA?key=S082dnJReURod1FKXzFWRjRZZzRxTUpibkpzbjln

Based on the Dunwich Dynamo, an annual, semi-organised, self-supported overnight ride taking place near the longest day of the year from London, 190km until the ocean on the east of the UK that draws 1000+ riders. Inspired by this and trying to find a way to beat the heat, about 10 of us decided to ride from Montreal to Burlington. Starting at 9pm and ending at around 7am, down Route 2 between the lakes dividing Vermont and New York state. Almost completley flat, empty roads, on a cloudless night with a beautiful sunrise that hit us at about North Hero. Bonus, I did a work day as a messenger (not riding fixed though), ate and slept for 2 hours, and then did this trip. So about 250km or 155 miles in 24hrs. https://www.strava.com/activities/612297713

I bought one of these Crosslakes from a friend and I absolutely enjoy it.

This is what it looks like now.

I got you fam: Sun UV Protection Neck Gaiter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YCPK72C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I love using these on log rides and protects my face from the sun. Same with the shirt in case you are interested: DRI-Equip Long Sleeve Moisture... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWHUV04?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You can see I’m a big dude but these two items are stretchy and comfy while riding.

Why cant you just get the evo max threaded bb? Feels like the fourth time you've asked.

https://www.amazon.com/Miche-Evo-Max-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B01NAFSOGO?th=1&psc=1

Select BSA and then buy now

Okay, I own a Mataro Low and a Cordoba(Neither have an the aluminum fork I just bought frames, and if anyone is considering getting an Aventon, DO NOT get one with an aluminum fork because they are known to snap.), my friend owns the crew District and I have ridden it several times. Throne is not worth the money, and is the only frame of the three brands to have a video of some dude's frame snapping in the middle of a race. PHOTO, VIDEO NSFW LANGUAGE AT END. I wouldn't risk that, personally. But between my Aventon and my friends Crew I would probably get the Crew, it feels more solid than both of mine and has a higher quality matte finish compared to my Cordoba. Added with the fact the Crew is $200 for the frameset with the carbon fork right now. I like both of my Aventon's though and I think they are great bikes, so if that's what you like, the frames are good and the prices are coming down on them from what I have seen. Sorry for the wall of text.

TLDR: CREW > MATARO > Probably don't buy a Throne

CREW: well built, really cheap

Mataro: Solid frame, don't buy with aluminum fork, frame seems thinner than Crew kind of soda-can-ish? sometimes.

Throne: Video of frame snapping in dude's race, and far less throne are on the streets than Aventons , not worth the risk probably or the money

Hi guys, after some months of riding fixed gear, this Sunday i'm going to race my first race.The event is a criterium in a street circuit of 1.1km, 30 laps 15.53 mph minimum speed. The gear, based on this reddit comments, is 49x16 (71.5"). And the course is : https://www.strava.com/segments/13421644

Any suggestion or recommendations for a first time crit? Thanks!

I have MKS Sylvan Track Pedals, MKS Large Steel Toeclips + VP Straps.

$46 total.

Edit: Added eBay link (where I got my parts).

[USA][TX][WTT] Not my post, but someone should totally buy this thing - it’s too big for most of us but there has to be someone who wants a Cannondale for $500. Trade is that if you buy it, you have to post pics at some point! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/722353928295750/

Might not be quite the same but these are similar - knockoff Cinelli Mike Giant Ram bar/stem combo

they even have apartments here which require you to submit a sample of dna from your dog for reference when they find errant shit on the property so they can give you a fine. it's insane.

here's a much better explanation for horse manure in streets than i can provide

I use a silver version of this which works reasonably well, but I find it's best to remove the brake for clearance reasons (the cable interferes a bit). The aftermarket for gopro accessories is massive, you can pretty much get whatever you want.

I didn't like the handlebar mount because it would sway back/forth too much, especially if track standing. My solution was to mount the gopro to my head tube instead, using one of these with a 90 deg short extender. It vastly improved the stability of the shot as now the camera was pointed in the direction of the frame and not just the direction of the handlebars.

I ride 48/14 and it's definitely not flat only. I can take most not-extremely steep hills.

Rode this century 48/14 https://www.strava.com/activities/190759827

But you make a good point. 53T chainrings don't have a place on the street.

I did my first long ride on my fixie last weekend, just to see if I could. Same gear ratio as you, with a few hills. Not gonna lie, I got off the bike and jogged up one of them: https://www.strava.com/activities/127469362

I think I totalled 83miles on that day. You start noticing the difference between clipless and really right toe clips at about 40 miles… my feet were covered in bruises!

Fan video that doesn't actually show the wallride, but does have proof that Harwood landed it. http://websta.me/p/900445156846913183_1045411328

Including the wall ride his final 200m time was 12.09 seconds.

Oh that makes sense. The numbers of teeth on the gears just have to be coprime for the wear to distribute evenly then.

So no, 44-16 won't be good in that regard, while 44-15 or 44-17 will be perfect.

I felt motivated or whatever and made a little gif to illustrate.

When the big wheel is at the right horizontal (corresponding to a certain position of the feet), the invisible rider brakes, and the part of the left wheel that is vertical toward the ground goes red.

Leg Shield Bike Pant Protector - Completely Protects Cyclist's Pants from Grease and Chain Unlike Existing Straps and Clips - Comfortable, Snug Fit, Easy On/Off (1 Unit) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006J0PHAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XFWXJ5D3AVTENHYGKZ14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

i also rec this chain wear indicator. best and cheap way to check ur chain life.

They’re not the ‘cool’ thing to do but you can get an adjustable stem that would let you angle your handlebars to be at a higher angle. Something like this but just make sure the sizing works with your current bike. 31.8 Bike Stem Adjustable 0-60 Degree Bicycle Stem Handlebar Riser Extender for Road Bike, Mountain Bike, MTB, BMX (Only Fit 1.25"/31.8mm Handlebar) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BYZM4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Sz8bGbAJN9NA6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You won't be able to put a fixed cog and lock ring on the free hub side unfortunately. To remove the lock ring you'll need a lock ring spanner. To remove the cog you'll need a 1/8 chain whip.

Edit: something like this combines the 2 tools

Hey thanks! They are relatively inexpensive pedals from amazon.

I have them in black on my gravel bike too.

Here you go

They were these pretty sure they're just no name Amazon pedals but they took 2 years of abuse and they hit the curb super hard, glad they deformed before my crank arm did. They creaked super bad especially in the cold but otherwise not bad pedals.

Sram Omnium is available for 117E in Amazon France in 17.25cm size ?

That's a crazy good deal no?

It's just tape. even with a front and rear light this thing was scary as it was hard to see.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9QVHX2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

been on about 500 miles and seems to work, there is a noticeable improvement in how cars act approaching intersections.

Take a Look

Best bang for buck you will ever see. If I didn't hate Amazon so much I would feel good about this. I have had many sets of lights both cheap and pricey. These are insanely bright both front and back. They work as actual purposeful headlights on a dark road, for a good distance, even in the rain. For the price honestly you can't go wrong. I've had them for almost two years and the batteries still charge great, though they do not last as long as some of the higher end units I've had. Knowing Amazon there are probably some equivalents on there, but I have not found them, and I have tested many. I would buy them again without hesitation.

Nice!! Yeah, the real food makes a massive difference. And talking in group rides is great.

I'm a pretty spiritual guy so the only way I make it through solo large rides like this one is to pre-download and listen to sermons from an app called AudioVerse. (App Store / Google Play)

Hope you enjoy your rides !

Awesome, thank you. I live in Ireland, so maybe there's a chance it will allow me to watch it anyway. If not, I'll try your way. Thanks a lot dude!

EDIT: So the BBC website doesn't show the WATCH LIVE option for me, and Expat Shield is only for Windows machines. I then downloaded Hotspot Shield for Mac but it doesn't seem to be working for me, the watch live links don't show. The 'Catch Up' feature doesn't work without a VPN either.

EDIT 2: Hotspot Shield seems to only allow people to view US content in other countries, I don't think there's a similar software to Expat Shield for Mac unfortunately :(

As someone who bought a Wabi after recently getting into bikes for commuting, buy a torque wrench and some good hex keys. Those rear wheel bolts will often slip if not properly torqued and unless you have quality tools, you will round the bolts like my Craftsman's did trying to get to that torque. The torque wrench will be useful if you ever install or reinstall some parts. After doing so without a torque wrench to tell me when to stop on the stem a few times, the face-plate was near catastrophic failure because I over-tightened the bolts and cracked the aluminum in several places. Almost every problem I've had with the bike has had to do with not knowing how tight something should be, and buying a torque wrench sooner could have saved me hundreds of dollars and so many hassles.

Hey Dude, Just wondering if you could give your general impressions on the my positioning on the bike, specifically saddle height and setback. I was previously riding a Fizik Arione slammed pretty far back. Felt like I was resting too much on my soft tissue as opposed to my sitbones. Was also getting some numbness along the outside of my feet that I am pretty sure was due to compression of some nerves and/or blood vessels in my nether region. Ended up picking up a Specialized Toupe which I installed in the same position (raised the seatpost slightly to keep the saddle-BB distance the same as with the Arione) and rode for a week or so including one long ride. I did feel like I was on my sitbones a bit more but was still having the numbness in my feet. I went back to my LBS and spoke to one of their fitters. He threw me on a trainer and immediately slammed the seat basically all the way forward so I was KOPS. I felt a lot more stable in this position but it felt like I went from using my entire legs to pedal to just my quads. I lost a lot of power especially climbing. I actually had to check once to see if I had the 16t on instead of my usual 17t. (I didn’t :)) Rode it like this for another week and then moved it back to how I had it prior to that adjustment. I took some video of myself and it did look like I was pretty far back and reaching at the bottom of the pedal stroke a bit too much so I started moving the saddle forward a couple mm at a time.

This is how I have it right now. I am about 4.5 cm behind the BB and the saddle-BB distance is 74 cm. I have a cycling inseam of 32.75-33 in. This feels like a good compromise between the position I had initially and then after the adjustment at the LBS (he had the saddle another 2cm forward) but I’ve only been riding it in this position for a coupe days. Will be doing a long ride tomorrow.

Thanks!

TL/DR - How does this fit look? :)

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=sqmddc%3E&s=8#.VXtiRmCZF_0

that, my friend, was a pretty cool video you linked me to. I think I may use that as a template and modify it with this tutorial it will be a lot more work but a more permanent solution.

Do bssically everything the guy on youtube did only with a foam board (the ones used for presentations for tri fold back boards.) use the resin from the instructibles website. on the foamy side so it soaks up. Let it dry on the wheel, let it take shape, keep in place with zipties during drying. After it dries, sand it down smooth after taking it apart. Painting it, clear coating it. Take a drill to drill holes (where the smaller holes for zipties were) for screws and bolts ( I am thinking of sleeve bolts with square allen head tips) and then reassembling it onto the rear wheel. It will be more sturdier, have to replace way less frequencly and more stiff!

You can get an adapter for the stem. It'll be used to attach to your fork, then you just attach a threadless stem to it.

It looks like this.

So much interesting stuff if you Google the term...

Wat, the only reason I bought my fixed was because the guy was selling it to go on a tour between cities that are 4 hours apart by car... could have gone fixed clearly.

You got a link to his Strava Nordok? I'd love to see. edit: Nevermind JaBig Big Journey

San Bruno mountain is the hill she refers to at the beginning. Beautiful mountain to climb, like she said rarely any cars, so quiet and eerie radio towers up there with little to no signs of activity.

Stage 1 of the Three Amigos!

https://www.strava.com/routes/2884778

Just broke in the cages and brake on a nice long ride! On the way up to Nyack I ended up drafting back and forth with some awesome dude, and netted myself the best times I've put up on 9w. Dangit I need some bike friends to 9w with!

https://www.strava.com/activities/629265403

The Origin8 pedal straps are sturdy. Not real quick for adjusting to different shoes. Would have preferred all black. My LBS hooked me up with yellow. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPjUOrRlmD87XHEbY5f8P_wOyLAT21RwVEqcRJ0ZlL2Da4ENlerTtSxNNPkBLvr8A?key=eVRaZHhyRUNYbkk0YmNMQS1IT1htUW0xSkN4dkZR

Dont get the downvotes. Seriously, everyone who wants a 360 has one, and if you don't why would you buy a used one ever? You cant guarentee the lisepsan left before it redrings or the care that was taken by the prev owner. Factory refurbs are like under 100 dollars. Unless your games are ones with high replay value and the person actually wants them they aren't really worth anything. Not that you won't be able to get rid of it, but 300 dollars is not realistic. First search and at best buy no less. I would take the first decent trade I could find, it loses value daily.

Deep V's are shit. Unnecessary weight. 180 for deep v's and unsealed hubs, major rip off.

You could build:

• 2x Mavic Open Sport rims = $99

• Eightinch Formula Sealed Track hubs = $60

• $20-35 to get a local shop to build it up with spokes.

Strava says I had an average of about 20.6mh, but if I look at the individual averages per lap it's closer to 23-25. I was running 46x15, and I did each lap in just under a minute :52-:58, there were 20 laps. It felt long and it was hard, definitely. Here's my Strava map, should have worn my HR monitor. https://www.strava.com/activities/600000208

Organised by a few friends in LSF (Leeds Singlespeed/Fixed Gear) & armed with Brevet cards stipulating that pints had to be at least four percent - we set off at midday & eventually rolled back into our starting bar around eleven & a half hours later.

We did get a bit wet midway through, but the weather held up pretty well. Only one puncture in a group of nineteen as well, which wasn't too shabby, & /u/jonthedoors didn't fall off once! ;D (Which would have meant a shot of tequila for everyone at the next bar). Looking forward to next time!

Route.

Sure thing: The documentary "Don't Think I've forgotten", and its soundtrack (awesome) this compilation https://www.discogs.com/sell/item/308964763. And the music is from https://www.discogs.com/Various-Dengue-Fever-Presents-Electric-Cambodia/master/221855

Its hard to find records of the individual artists and groups in the States, If I could afford import prices I'd have more than just the compilations.

Sure...and again, I was being blunt, so please don't take that personally.

The trick with saddle height is that it's not just knee pain - I've had my saddle set too high and far back and ended up hurting my hip...getting the contact points on your bike dialed in is important, and often finicky.

That all having been said, there's a difference between riding a few miles a day and experiencing perineum soreness (in which case the proper response is HTFU) and experiencing joint pain over longer training rides. So really, I could be doling out overcomplicated advice - I just tend to err on the side of overdoing it when the consequence could be really hurting yourself on a bike.

Really, to be even more blunt, the question for OP is...does your perineum (aka your gooch, taint, etc) hurt, or is it your joints/bones? Is it sharp or dull pain? Are you noticing saddle sores?

There's a bunch of Miele sticker sets on eBay... restoring it could be cool;

Or is this a better deal?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phil-Wood-Hubs-Mavic-Open-Pro-rims-Track-bike-Wheels-/330609157910?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf9d76716

I want something lightish and durable.

I haven't used one so I can't recommend any brands, but I know there are quiet a few phone mounts out there. Did a quick search and found this list. It's a bit dated but I'm sure they have updated versions of those products.

I'm not actually saying ANY of that though, the only thing I've said is that it is not possible to skid stop faster than using a front brake - in addition to eluding that it is stupid to ride without one in an urban environment.

Chill the fuck out and lighten up.

And, I was making fun of your shitty, machismo, got-something-to-prove title in the first place ass hole.

oh, and - http://olive-drab.com/idphoto/id_photos_m1157.php :P

Or, if you want a garbage truck (like I said) - 60K straight to your door from China http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-quality-garbage-truck-capacity-garbage_60006520631.html?s=p

Yep, I have used rotafixing, but I thought it was a thing only for those that don't have a chain whip tool. Actually, it works way better than a chain whip.

Although, the tool you must have at all costs is the lock ring wrench. I didn't have that and always went the the only LBS that had a chainwhip and lock ring wrench.

I'll try leaning more next time I ride. As for the lower gear cog, it might be easier to skid, but overall speed will diminish. Considering my city has a horrible road system, I might consider trying 46/20.

We have traffic lights every 300 metres and we don't have blocks, so there are roads coming and going from every direction. Most drivers don't use turn signals, they overtake left and right, they take whichever lane has less cars, no matter if they're going straight or turning, and will always speed when confronted by the yellow light. Cops are everywhere but they only write tickets for parking, phone use and seat belts. If they wrote tickets to every road infraction, they'd be stopping 80% of the cars and causing a massive jam. Every pedestrian will jaywalk, mainly because there are not enough zebras and they are placed terribly. Plus, until 1990 we were a very poor isolated country where only politicians and military officers had cars, hence the entire city was a huge pedestrian zone.

Basically, I can't get rid of the front brake. I'd be dead or paralyzed in a matter of days, or going at 5km/h constantly. A few years ago, a friend of mine broke his arm and shoulder while riding, a dumbass opened his door without looking at the mirrors.

One of the fastest LA rides is known as Kushtown. Every Wednesday at 10pm in Koreatown about 50-60 guys meet up for a 30-60 mile ride around LA. Mostly Fixed, some roadies throughout. It's the reason I got into riding really.

I'm wearing the Kushtown Kit.

snood

snooty

Whatever you end up putting on your shirts, maybe have someone spell-check it for you.

FWIW, I've always liked the phrase "Dicks On Everything"

I'm at work, so I can't get the video to play, but this looks like it may be helpful. Your local bike shop should have some good degreaser that will take off the paint and clean everything up nicely. If they don't, gasoline works wonders. Just don't dump it down your sink or into the grass afterwards. Also, you're going to want to invest a few bucks into a tub of bearing grease. Your local hardware store should have some. I use it on dang near everythang.

Let me start off by saying I consider myself a bike activist, I authored this cycling guide, and just recently attended a meeting with vision zero network.

Generally speaking, I follow MOST laws while I'm on the road, the only Law that I bend is at intersections. I use the Idaho stop method to get through intersections, which if you're unfamiliar, is stop signs are treated as yields, and traffic lights are treated as stop signs (you stop, and proceed IF it's clear obvi), and is actual Idaho law.

I don't think we should have to follow the same laws as cars on the road, because we're not the same type of vehicle. On a bike, your field of vision is a lot greater than in a car, which is what lets us negotiate intersections a lot easier, not to mention that we're on a 20 pound vehicle compared to two tons of killing machine. I've also heard that it's actually safer to roll through intersections, because it lets us clear the intersection a lot faster, and gets us out of the way of those killing machines, as opposed to having to come to a complete stop, and then start back up.

I don't split lanes, I don't filter up at intersections, I take the whole lane when it's my only safe option, and I avoid busy streets that don't have any bicycle infrastructure. I'm literally on my fixed gear bike almost every day.

[UK, SCO][For Sale][Not mine]

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/specialized-langster-fixed-wheel-bicycle/1274669396

Not mine, but just found a cheap Langster just outside Glasgow if anyone is in the market....

[US / SEATTLE] Is this a fair price for my bike?

We added that the tubes were flat after two people decided not to buy.

To be 100% road ready it needs new tubes and tires. My Bike

Check out urban outfitters, they have them stocked and $78 a pop once you add the postage they are cheaper than most jeans you'd get anyway. Use this to get 10% off.

If you are looking for a whole wheelset take a gander at these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EIGHTHINCH-AMELIA-TRACK-FIXED-GEAR-WHEEL-WHEELSET-BLACK-/140507359782?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b6e42a26#ht_2426wt_952

I'll probably get a bunch of crap for that but those are the type I use and have had no problems. Tires were great and I have even hit a couple curbs at pretty high speeds with no issues. Highly recommended. I run 38/16 on mine. Very non agressive but I can still keep a decent speed without having to buy a new crankset. Worst thing that could happen is you have to buy a new crankset and chain when you don't like it.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/451237005/Humpert_3H_FIX_CHM_Single_Speed.html http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/451237845/Humpert_3H_FIX_CHM_Single_Speed.html

Not sure of price, but the components seem at least more trustable than the others.

Ive been riding Hollywood for almost 3 years and I LOVE the bike community here. Monday Night Rehab is my steez.

How awesome was that? Probably the funnest most awesomest event/exercise I've ever done. Curious: what was your time? I wasn't trying to win, just compete... Roughly about 1hr 8min or so for the course (with the 2nd start at Tangs). Surly Steamroller fixed 48-17 http://www.mapmyride.com/view_workout?w=626133208412075732

I ride with roadies every week, it takes some getting used to. Honestly it was at least 4 or 5 large group rides until I really got used to group dynamics, how to draft properly, holding my line, accelerating and braking properly within the group (you don't want to speed ahead and you don't want to push anybody behind).

2.9 ratio will not be enough to keep up, if the pace is anything like it is in my city (typical ~cat2/3/4/5 club ride). On flats we move around 26-28 mph with pretty quick rotations and a few attacks to keep the pace high. Cadence at 27 mph for a 76" gear is 120 rpm, you will spin out before the group really gets in its groove. I ride a 48/14 or 3.43 ratio and it is enough to keep up with the roadies, but climbing takes some determination and strong legs.

My recommendation would be to do interval sprint training, assuming that you are experienced and the distance won't be an issue for you. Like others have said, as long as you can keep up for the most part, you can sit in the back of the pack and draft at 25 mph no problem. What you will really need to work on is when the attacks or hills come and not letting yourself be separated. Raise you ratio a bit and get used to riding at a higher pace in general.

105.4 miles in 5:45:49. Planning on doing it again this year and shaving at least 20 minutes off if not more. Rode a 48/14, 90.2" gear. 68 is definitely doable, just be sure to bring enough or stop for water and sugar and lots of salt!

I run the same ratio, and you are kind of right in terms of top speed- it isn't a max, it is just the max that I bet he felt comfortable skidding. I regularly hit it on my daily commute, but it really is the fastest where I feel comfortable. After that, I consider it 'runaway train' speed. ~~https://www.strava.com/activities/278679047~~ edit, crap. Posted a regular hill to show 34.2mph is my max, I have hit 36mph on that hill. Strava doesn't show maxes if you aren't logged in.

Either way, this guy is a fucking legend imo. An absolute beast.

Man, i hear you on keeping up with the roadies. I upgraded from 48:16 to 51:16 and the first time I tried a group/training ride, I was the only fixed among 20+ riders, I was still getting dropped.

Since you're already in Strava, might as well add yourself to Reddit's Strava fixedgearbicycle group.

I dig the splatter effect but the white bar is not doing it for me. For one, it's a pretty generic bit of pizzazz you see on road bikes for new balance dads. Personally I wouldn't mind the bar if the convention were subverted with some kind of faux branding or a contrasting splatter. Secondly, as you can see in the linked picture there is usually a matching bar on the seat tube that helps draw the eye 'through' the frame from front to back, I think the lack of that may be off-putting to some.

Dig the splatter, though.

Yes, blue and brown/yellow are complementary colors, meaning they are opposites on the color-spectrum. Just like red and green, they complement each other like the name suggests.

This is a particularly hasty AM ride, though I'm pretty sure that's not the norm. I've never done one before but I figure getting dropped is the worst that can happen if you know where you're at.

For those who can't read Swedish. He also has one where he makes his own porteur bicycle

I would like to try it out, but these are only prototype bars given to Leader Team members.

Here are some other photos of the Leader EQNX frameset + kit in their Look Book.

What rack is that...get this front fender from SKS...Easy to take off and put on..Sunny days I remove it.

https://www.amazon.ca/SKS-Germany-11317-S-Board-Bicycle-Fender/dp/B016OV15KC/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=sks+fender&qid=1626872776&sr=8-6

I hate to promo Amazon but I bought this solar light early this year and it's one of the best investments I have made in this hobby. Never have to worry about batteries, it's super bright, and lasts for hours in a single night. I did about 3 hours a few weeks ago after sunset and it never even started dimming. Hopefully the battery and panel have a decent life in them, but even if not it's cheap enough to replace without second thought

Beautiful bike bro! If you have some spare change lying around, order an Allen-key quick release for the front tire. They look much better and are practical if you aren’t taking the front wheel off all the time.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMYPWYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PY5DGESV2BJQYEGEKP86

I have a colossi low pro, i did see a threaded option on CRC but its out of stock. I think I have found it on amazon though. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NAFSOGO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

Is this chainring safe to use with fixed? Would the teeth cause problem if I try to skid?

If your chain is 1/8" you can use whatever cog and chainring is available. Narrow teeth fit in a wider chain with no problem. You just can't use a 3/32" chain with 1/8" teeth because they are too wide to fit.

The very easiest thing to do first is try a larger cog.

22t: https://www.statebicycle.com/products/all-city-22t-x-1-8-track-cog-black

21t: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TTU09ZS/

If you get a 22t you'll want a 42t chainring, or even 45t or 46t. 44/22 is only one skid patch and your tires won't last one trail ride.

Edit: FYI 44/21 or 46/22 will be about 10% easier, 42/22 will be about 20% easier.

In my experience so far, the tighter it's mounted to the bike the better. It's the reason I got this Amazon Link Minoura mount for my Sony RX100 when I record rides. (That camera sucks for rides because it has a 10min record limit)

Similar look doesn't mean same. MKS, from what I understand, has been around for a very long time. These pedals came highly recommended. 100+ reviews on Amazon and a 4.6 rating. https://www.amazon.com/MKS-Sylvan-Touring-Pedal-Double/dp/B003Z6PGZU

EDIT - That's the touring pedal I linked. But the track pedals has just as good a rating.

I mean, anything with a gauge and ideally both schraeder and presta valves works. I have a pedro's pump which has shockingly bad amazon reviews as mine is 3 years old of ~daily use and is fine, but who knows.

Even if you're not planning on night rides, you should have lights for dusk/rain/etc. Better to have them and say 'oh yeah i'll go do ride where I might be out late' than be stuck out late and riding without lights. I actually think they are more important than a helmet, but whatever.

The lock is your call - security is important, and as long as you lock smart nobody's gonna bust that thing for your bike, so more power to you.

reviews on amazon say they're round battery powered <not USB> and can fall off easily. Price point isn't bad for $35 though...

I have a camo bike fetish also. One of these days.

I've considered getting a State Black label frame on amazon for $200 and wrapping it.

these are an insane deal on gatorskins, My friend is trying to get new tires. Is there any reason not to order these? I feel like there is because they are super cheap and amazon.

These - honestly tried to do this on the cheap and easy so Amazon Prime BMX bars were a quick fix.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BW3H64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zDFbBbW0Z1MQP

Keep in mind you’ll need a shim if you’re using a 25.4 stem, which is standard. BMX bars aren’t thicker in the middle like road bars are.

if you can convince someone with prime: $6 1/8 inch chain amazon

phone mount

Hey, I don’t know if it is available in your country but basically I brought the ‘Basil Front Carrier Portland’ and a ‘Rothko Country’ basket at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0721FDHBW

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0721FDHBW