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I would use more heat, and employ a bearing puller.

And then I would throw away that bearing and use a new one. I doubt you need to replace the case.

This is a good example of why it's super important to keep the bearing square to the hole and use a proper bearing driver to insert it.

Flexible magnet pick up tool. You will really need this if you do your own work. You will still curse, but you will curse less while getting that dropped bolt from deep inside your bike.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5QRV4/

My Honda has the same covers. I bought this 17mm wrench and it works great. . Since it sits flat on all 6 sides of the head, it's way less likely to keep rounding it out.

You can buy rolls of oil resistant gasket material in rolls like paper towels for super cheap, even from name brands like Fel-Pro.

Fel-Pro 3157 Gasket Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNISM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XZVZ7X3SRRGT2R2G8QCQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That’s your main ground wire for the headlight. I would actually get a crimp on connector with a round hole that fits the screw, be careful when you put it back together that you don’t strip the screw hole in that assembly. I think everybody needs a set of these.

TICONN 250PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connectors, Waterproof Automotive Marine Electrical Terminals Kit, Crimp Connector Assortment, Ring Fork Spade Butt Splices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPF1TTX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XXJ7S3HST4MXX2164Z6X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Heating the screw with a soldering iron first will often help loosen it up especially if threadlocker was used on the screws. For stubborn ones I have one of these. It's a hand impact driver that turns the screw when you hit with the hammer. It's probably in every motorcycle mechanic's toolbox.

4 Mini GPS Vehicle Car Alarm Security Caution Warning Decal Sticker $2.79 Amazon.com - Seller Free shipping

Since a part still sticks out, I'd go for one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70016-Damaged-Extractor-Removes/dp/B01GKEBG9I

Works pretty well in my experience, plus you can put a breaker bar on it which can come in handy.

I got recommended this 3 in 1 dry lock lubricant by someone in this subreddit I think, and maybe it will be the answer to your problem?

All my keyways are butter smooth after spraying some of this stuff in. I looked like a lunatic spraying every keyhole I could find

Bolt Extractor set. worked perfectly for my snapped off exhaust studs. Maybe spray with some pb blaster/liquid wrench beforehand instead of wd.

Fully charge the battery. Put a multimeter on the battery when it’s running and see what kind of voltage you’re getting. Then shut it off and check for parasitic drain.

Attaching an led voltmeter to track running volts wouldn’t hurt.

Some bikes have a separate flasher for four ways, and as you mentioned, are down there by the battery under the seat, little black square things. You can feel it clicking when you run the turn signals and you’ll feel it buzzing when you try to run your four ways. Remove the relay (should pull right out) and check the connections for corrosion, consider replacing it. Also you need a multi meter to check the charge status on your battery because if your bike isn’t running, the battery might not have enough power to run your four ways properly. You need a digital multimeter, I recommend one like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

I work in a shop, but I don't have a monopoly on common sense. If you know about reddit, I'd be willing to bet you know about Amazon.

You may actually spend more on gas or electricity to anneal that washer than to have a pack of 20 sent to your house.

Do not do what the other guy said. That WD40 is going to attract dirt and dust and mung everything up. If you want to use some lube in the throttle housing use something like graphite. If you want to lube the actual cables use actual cable lube and the proper tool.

They make this handy tool for working on drum brakes on cars, I think an auto parts store would rent you one or loan it.

OTC 4590 Brake Spring Plier and Claw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063V40G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S0F300RR6RSREFABKXV6

I'd get it out of there with a brand new vice grips with sharp teeth. If you have access to a welder, just put a big nut over the existing head and weld it on. The heat generated by the welding helps too. I doubt it is very stuck though. That crack should really loosen things up.

As far as the crack you could JB weld it. It would work but it would be JB welded. You could braze it pretty easily and it would be e much higher quality repair. I use these rods

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00012Y0FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZGC7AB4315CVXNDZKR8T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can find lots of videos on how to do it. Being that it's aluminum you can do it with a good propane torch with map gas cylinder. Clean the aluminum with aluminum brightener or aluminum cleaner. Practice on some junk aluminum casting. It won't take long to catch on.

This may work, might find one at an auto parts store.

ARES 70016 - Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool - Grips and Removes 1/4-Inch to 1/2-Inch Studs - Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over, and Rusted Tight Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKEBG9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P4GSTGX7MGTZ0S776E7F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yes. It should come out of the overflow if the floats are stuck. The drain screw is the problem. Any fuel resistant o-ring will do... you don't have to get some OEM ring. I keep an o-ring kit around. In a pinch you can cut an o-ring/gasket out of cardboard, grease it up and use that in the mean time. The only thing you are trying to do here are mate two surfaces and stop the flow of gas (without introducing a material that will dissolve with the gas). Gas is very thin and can travel down screw threads... thus the need for o-rings / gaskets.

> what's likely to charge it better - a ride (gentle? firm?) or just idling in the back yard ?

Riding it would charge it quicker, idling for long periods should be avoided in my opinion.

A battery charger / tender is better than either of those two options and something you should probably get at some point anyway.

The above supplied link is for example purposes only, other chargers/tenders/maintainers are available.

Japanese Industrial Standard. Looks like a Phillips but has a sort of... slightly stubbier head. Not meant to "cam out" the way a Phillips does. Get one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE

Yup, saw the dot, knew exactly what was happening.

One of these will help:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_OSy1FbWMH9653

Also handy on vintage Honda carbs. Somehow, they managed to figure out how to mix metal with room temperature butter, and then make screws, with little dots on the heads. Once they were removed/extracted I swapped them for stainless allens.

Maybe this?

EDIT - Amazon version

Also, I have no experience with this I simply used my Google-fu in full disclosure..

It really sounds like there’s a vacuum leak, and if the diaphragm is torn that would be where the problem could be. You need to find a way to get those stripped screws out and investigate that. I don’t see the holes you were mentioning that spray gas out of the intake manifold, I don’t recall there being holes between the head and the carburetors. When it revs after starting I think it’s because it didn’t start and was cranked for a long time and it loaded things up with fuel. And you’re pretty much running it on choke and when you turn the choke off it dies. Try spraying the front area with starting fluid and if the engine speed increases you’ve definitely got a vacuum leak. If you didn’t know, you need JIS screwdrivers to work on these bikes, or screws get stripped very easily.

Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (New 3rd. Gen) (Japan Import) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QrvHCb3CMH3F1

I don't know how much this will help you but they sure do look like these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Disc-Brake-Pads-Set-For-GN125cc-GS-150cc-Haojue-Honda-Suzuki-Yamaha-Motorcycles-Spare-Parts-Free/962239856.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.41.wLAvf7

EDIT: Those aren't 100% matching above, these look a little closer, the "Dirt Bike Front Brake Pad Set": http://www.scooterparts4less.com/ALL_BrakePad.htm

(I'm bored)

use one of these to get a sight line on the chain:

https://www.amazon.ca/Motion-Pro-08-0048-Chain-Alignment/dp/B000GTVOJQ

you connect it to the sprocket and when looking down the rod, you will see if the chain is not centered and adjust accordingly

If they screwed up the paint that bad, you might want to bring it back to base of factory paint. Generally a good 400, then 600 does the job.

Guy down the street said he use a new 2K (two part) spray can system that did an amazing job. I haven't seen it, it's probably the same as this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

Taking the time to bring it back to a good base, helps to insure that it won't have a bad reaction.

Wet sanding with 400 and a flex sanding block works pretty well.

You need something like this. This isn’t the exact one I have, but there are several manufacturers. There are i six internal spiral flutes which get a grip on the remains of the hex.

I have like six different battery tender brand tenders and they are totally silent. I even had a couple of cheaper ones over the years and I’ve never heard any of them make a noise. Cheap insurance to replace so you don’t worry about a fire. Here’s my current small battery favorite.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9GGNZC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_qgCtFbV11CVCB

There are radiator cleaners, here’s one example. I don’t have any experience with them myself.

Prestone AS105 Radiator Flush and Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B99U088/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZVR6ZSHA7DDH7QHBB68E

Japanese bikes use JIS screws, not philips head. It helps when taking stuck screws off on old bike to use a JIS screwdriver. Use a penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let sit for a day. If the screw has a protruding screw head, put vice grips on the head and turn. If it has a recessed head... first clean out the slots with a metal tool. An eyeglass screwdriver... whatever but get as much rust and grit out of the slots. If you need more torque on the JIS screw driver... put the vice grips on it perpendicular to the driver and use that as an arm to turn while pushing in on the end of the screwdriver.

If you don't want to try the bag or tape method, grab this tool and go slowly: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/

I had a super stiff clutch to the point of getting calluses on my hands from actuating the lever. Used it once for the first time in ~5 years and it's as smooth as butter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-S2235-Hand-Tools-Transparent/dp/B06WGMGTJD/ref=asc_df_B06WGMGTJD/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=271967412945&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2132244765527864312&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...

It may or may not be normal, but I guarantee if you clean, grease and reinstall the battery ground wire to the frame, and also what I suspect is another ground connection in your headlight area, the parasitic draw on the battery will be less. If you ride often I would imagine your battery is OK or should be, follow the link from the auto moderator to RevZilla for testing your battery and your charging system to make sure that that’s working. And I’m a big fan of having a quality battery tender, connect the tender pigtail to your battery and you just plug the darn thing in whenever it’s at home, hopefully you have access to power where you park. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9GGNZC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_qgCtFbV11CVCB

It’s very difficult for us to know and the bike is pretty old but you can send me oil off for an analysis. He was one of many options. Under My Hood Oil Analysis Premier Kit with Return Postage Included and Fast Results https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N98BFD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E2WZ9WBF6PVFWDPNNBSW

I used this tool when I had some broken studs and worked just fine. https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70016-Damaged-Extractor-Removes/dp/B01GKEBG9I/ref=asc_df_B01GKEBG9I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312003160272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8015344238493077671&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004257&hvtargid=pla-524005805694&psc=1

By the way, is that a yamaha fz6?

I think the calipers were rebuilt correctly. Everything was spotless and the pistons are flush (fully pressed in). The dust seal was ribbed on one side, the main seal wasn’t. Check. I’m going to take you up on the vacuum bleeder. Is there one that’s better than others? I know people like MightyVac, but if this is just as good I’ll buy the damn thing right this second: Vacuum Pump

I have a tub of turtle wax polishing compound I've been using for years. It goes a long ways.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2

Red jewelers rouge works well too.

You're not filling them, and in some cases you aren't polishing them out completely, just smoothing out as much as you can to keep wear on the seal to a minimum.

https://www.amazon.com/Workshop-Hero-WH290487-Rescue-Remover/dp/B005JVNQPQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=rust+remover+for+metal&qid=1610308946&sprefix=rust+re&sr=8-12 This worked amazingly well for me but your looks a lot worse than mine did.

1. Cut a slot in the head with a Dremel cutting wheel & take it out with a large flat bladed screwdriver, use a wrench on the screwdriver's square shaft if needed.
2. Drill a hole straight down the center and use a straight fluted screw extractor.

https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-720-Extractor-Kit/dp/B0002NYBIC

I wouldn't normally recommend a screw extractor but this is a fairly large screw with plenty of 'meat' and it's not under a lot of tension so if you're careful to drill straight down the center, it should just work.

Damn what year is your bike? Hoping I don't have repeat problems. I ordered a couple from Delphi on Amazon, Ill respond once I get it fixed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Q3BLGH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OP, I've replied a few different times in this thread but forgot to share my own knowledge. A year ago I broke my torque wrench and did an obscene amount of research. I ended up buying this one on Amazon for under $30. It's less expensive than most, but from everything my research told me it was the exact same type as another, more expensive torque wrench. (I can't remember the name, maybe it was a Tekton.)

I've been using it on bikes for the last year and it's worked great.

I recommend two things, get yourself a multimeter so you can test your battery and charging system and check all of your connections especially the black ground wire going to the frame. And also follow the big red wire to the starter solenoid to make sure everything is clean rust free and tight.

You need a multimeter, here’s an example.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

And here’s a good write up that will make you a Battery/Charging system GURU and can help somebody else in the future!

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery

First though, check the battery cable connections and follow the big wires to where they go, especially the black, ground wire. Clean, rust free and tight.

https://www.amazon.com/Interceptor-1982-1995-07933-3290000-07933-3290001-57001-1186/dp/B0721N3YCL

Might be cheaper somewhere else, or there's ways to do it without if its loose.

Yea the gasket behind that part of the case can probably be replaced with squeeze-on DIY gasket. Once you get that flywheel off you should be able to see into the engine and oil sump plenty to verify that there's no pieces floating around. Did you manage to drain the oil, was it super dirty and/or was there obvious shards of metal floating in it? As if a screw or nut had been obliterated and the bits were floating around in the oil sump?

Really does look like there’s enough of the male section of the hose end exposed to use vise grips on it. Find vice grips with curved jaws instead of flat ones. Harbor Freight or Hope Depot should have them. IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Locking Pliers, Original, Curved Jaw, 5-inch (4935579) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O2T0O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PDexFb7R349RB

With the engine at idol, spray some starting fluid around the carb boots and vacuum lines. If the engine surges, you've found your leak.

Do this only when the engine is cool, not on a super hot engine. And don't go crazy spraying the stuff all over the place, it's a solvent and can ignite so be smart.

Do the connectors inside the coils look just like spark plugs? I have taken some pliers and squeezed over the boots and squashed the connectors slightly so they fit tighter. Easy does it until you get the feel you like. I’ve also used copper paste on these type connections as they aren’t something you disconnect often and you want them never to corrode or let moisture cause trouble. This bottle will last forever, every one of my vehicle battery connections has this on them. And Pro tip, wear rubber gloves and be Very careful Not to get it on your clothes. Don’t wipe your hands on your pants because it’ll get inside the wash machine and mess up your home life... Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM8HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_atBpFbSB4JB9J

Intermittent electrical problems are the absolute worst. Could be a broken wire pushed together that opens at random times. After killing a battery in winter traffic with electric gear I put a Waterproof Voltmeter on all 3 bikes. It may not find your problem but will help you keep an eye on the system and possibly tell you if it’s system volts related. Good luck man.

Not saving any money but this is the kit others are talking about. Buna-N O-Ring Splicing Kit, 70A Durometer, Black, Standard Sizes, 5 Pieces, 7 Feet Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQORNZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nLhlFb5ZA10VM

Hit up your closest autoparts or home improvement store and look for a big bottle of evaporust. Pour it in with some small metal pellets like ball bearings, shotgun pellets or bbs or very small nuts. Seal it all up the best you can without your petcock in there. Plan to shake it for like a minute every hour or so and set it back down in a different position. Do this for a few hours up to over a day depending on how much surface rust and flaking is in there. When its all done give it a quick rinse with gas or alcohol.

Yes. I have a AEM AFR Gauge setup with alligator clips to connect to the battery and a bracket for the gauge to mount via a handlebar clamp.

I'll disagree on the needing a dyno to make it worth it. However I will say using a AFR gauge on a carbureted bike on the street to tune it, does have a learning curve.

I've done lots of dyno tuning. More often than not with the AFR gauge and test rides, I can get the bike dialed in to the point where the only tweaking we might be doing on the dyno should we put it up on it is a little timing adjustment. I use the AFR gauge to shift the bulk of the tuning to me vs having it all done on the dyno.

For pretty much all bikes a Battery Tender Jr. works phenomenal. I have multiple.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CITK8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$25 US on amazon. Comes with a ring terminal harness and gator clip harness.

I found these head light retaining clips on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Carrfan-Retaining-Springs-Headlamp-Headlight/dp/B07XXZZVC4/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=headlight+retaining+clip&pid=VKkfKCj&qid=1592346692&sr=1-9-catcorr&vehicle=2000-729-20900-20-----14107------8&ve... Check them out and see if one will work.

I'm still exploring the problem using the method of scientific inquiry as explained by Robert Pirsig in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

That means I need to form a theory as to what is going on, logically deduce what might fix the problem and try that to see what happens.

Yesterday I verified that my fuel mileage had truly dropped from 50 mpg to 44 mpg after setting the TPS to transition to rich mixture at about 1450 RPM.

I also noticed that every time I roll the throttle all the way off, the mixture transitions to lean and I can be stuck in a situation going down the hill at Granite Station where I don't dare roll the throttle on because the engine may be turning 6000~8000 RPM.

So I have to descend the hill without rolling the throttle on, and that's like riding a bicycle downhill...

The quickest thing I'd check in regards to fuel is draining the float bowls. Sometimes moisture can built in them. It'd also show whether any fuel lines are blocked or you're just out of fuel (as Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance points out, never rule that out just because it sounds like there's something in the tank).

Fuel injected or carbureted? Might want to be safe and drain the tank as much as possible (either pull a hose if you feel comfortable doing that, or use something like this), fill it with fresh gas and add some Seafoam.

I know it's not exactly what you are asking for, but I have a charging pigtail for my bike and recently found this USB adapter, and have been very happy with it. It has a rubber flap to protect the usb side. I'd say it's probably light -medium rain proof when it is not in use. Of course with the USB cable in place, it is open and exposed.

So with the shim tool do you mean this This?

​

I will definitely DM you, need all the help I can get lol.

> first thing I'd check is your charging system

/u/09gtcs said it does the same thing with a (presumably fully charged) car battery attached.

Sure, a failing charging system will eventually result in a low battery and loss of spark but it's not going to happen in a couple of minutes with a big car battery supplying power to the ignition system.

From looking at the video, from listening to how fast the starter is cranking the engine over, the starter appears to be getting plenty of voltage. Whatever the problem is, it does not appear to be from a weak battery. But I would verify everything- put a voltmeter at the power supply to the ignition module and also at the coils.

I suspect the electronic ignition module. Before replacing it I would test / inspect every other part of the system carefully, including the plug caps, wires, and all connections to make sure they are tight and that power is solid at the coils and power/earth is good at the ignition module.

If everything else checks out, I would make 100% sure there are pulses coming from the Pickup Base unit (used part number 4U8-81671-10-00 on ebay for illustration). You can do this with a cheap & cheerful 'scope, or even a computer sound card line input with an appropriate set of voltage divider resistors if that means anything to you.

It depends on the assembly, the photo's too close to see if the lens is separate from the housing and held on by the ring clamp. It PROBABLY is just held on by the ring clamp and a thin rubber gasket, which means there would be 3-4 screws to loosen on the outer ring to release the lens and access the inside of the reflector.

That being said, putting LEDs inside reflector housings? No, bad. Pull the lens and pick up one of the 5" or 7" round LED replacement housings that fit inside your bucket, reinstall the ring. Way better light output and reliability. Not terribly expensive either, they even have ones with built-in turn signals and running lights - if you're looking for a premium brand to spend more money on the same thing, Eagle Lights iirc does them too.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Straight-Fluted-Screw-Extractor/dp/B0002NYBIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2VV65MDWRPQYC&keywords=fluted+extractor+set&qid=1667270000&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjg3IiwicXNhIjoiMy40OSIsInFzcCI6IjMuMDYifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=...

>is 150nm (110ft lbs) maximum torque enough for most bolts on a motorcycle?

maybe. if they were tightened correctly to spec. most bolts wont need to be tightened more then 100ft lbs.

bought ryobi -
https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-3-Speed-Impact-Battery-Charger/dp/B08SHQMXRF/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3MP6C5PAAKYRO&keywords=ryobi+impact+wrench&qid=1667255474&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljc2IiwicXNhIjoiNC4wNyIsInFzcCI6IjMuNjcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ryobi+im...

I make sure to tighten the bolts to spec and mark it mounted. then use the torque wrench to install it to the mark shown. it has 3 speeds and usually on 2 it does all thats necessary. do make sure the nut tightens by hand 3-4 turns so you dont strip the thread. use thread locker when needed.

So all you need is a vacuume gauge set like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Prokomon-Motorcycle-Carburettor-Synchronizer-Balancer/dp/B09VPDM66Y/ref=asc_df_B09VPDM66Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232298885&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16579151769228823352&hvpone=&hvptwo...

And a longscrew driver

Something like these this?

Eastwood makes good stuff. Look on their website.

https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Silver-Hi-Temp-Paint-Pint/dp/B00GBSX87W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1PNOKVKJ3PRNE&keywords=high+heat+paint&nav_sdd=aps&qid=1665443267&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1Ljg4IiwicXNhIjoiNS4wOCIsInFzcCI6IjQuNzMifQ%3D%3D&...

>For a temporary fix, I will use high temp liquid engine gasket,

DO NOT DO THIS!

Get the proper gasket set. They're very cheap. You'll fuck shit up and make things worse using a liquid gasket of any kind.

If the jets aren't beat to hell you can reuse them, otherwise JetsRUs has them. They also have the carb rebuild kits, albeit a little more expensive.

For cleaning it sounds like you're good to go. Those VS800 carbs are a huge pain in the ass to get in and out/setup so if you're doing this job, do it right so you only have to do it once.

> "Destructive" doesn't necessarily mean that it will completely disintegrate the engine on contact.

It means it will destroy it, though.

> http://www.cycleworld.com/2013/07/05/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ethanol-fuel-and-your-motorcycle[1]

"Some fear that the E15 fuel remaining in the blender pump’s hose and pump, when mistakenly mixed into the small fuel volume of a motorcycle’s or other small engine’s tank, might result in a mixture lean enough to cause engine damage". 'Some fear' and 'might' are always a worry when making a point, but KC does know his shit.

However, this is referring specifically to 15% ethanol fuel, and it's wrong to tar all gasohol with the same brush. KC is careful to point out the danger zones and also the positives (modern FI systems compensate for it, for example).

> http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/03/gas-with-ethanol-can-make-small-engines-fail/index.htm[2]

Old strimmers and leaf blowers.

In short, both references you provide are guarded. The warning is more for 15% gasohol, and there are caveats. Saying that ethanol "is destructive to engines not designed for it" is a sweeping statement, and wrong.

"Destructive" doesn't necessarily mean that it will completely disintegrate the engine on contact.

http://www.cycleworld.com/2013/07/05/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ethanol-fuel-and-your-motorcycle

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/03/gas-with-ethanol-can-make-small-engines-fail/index.htm

You can if you use stainless ties like you might for exhaust wrap. Plastic ones will absolutely melt.

https://smile.amazon.com/Metal-Stainless-Tensile-Strength-Self-locking/dp/B08FSVPQ7V?sa-no-redirect=1

For the price you spend on school, you could buy all the books and tools you need and start fixing an old bike, and have money left over.

Honda Common Service Manual, the shop manual for the bike you're working on and a bit of youtube will work fine for a hobbyist.

list of resources

I’m sure it’s late and you made out ok, but this works great on my Yamaha Raider. Just move it front or back to lift each tire, very solid when it’s up.

Venom Adjustable Motorcycle Pivot... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Is cleaning worth a try first? I've seen some videos about folks cleaning their seals with these.

Is the bike a Power Valve model? The Power Valve could be stuck open.

The exhaust could also be full of oily crap and baked-on carbon. This usually builds up around the welded seams of the exhaust, and at sharp curves in the pipe.

The fastest way to clean out the exhaust is to get one of these flexible drain 'snakes'. Remove the exhaust from the bike. Cut the handle from the 'snake', fix one end into an electric drill, insert the other end in the tailpipe and turn on the drill. Move the snake in and out of the tailpipe gently. WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION.

Then insert the 'snake' into the exhaust header pipe, and repeat the above. It is also good to hit the exhaust with a rubber mallet to shock the hard carbon loose. Shake all the crap out of the exhaust, refit to bike, enjoy the extra power.

I would connect to the bike's wiring harness wherever physical access was the easiest. Use best practices, a Posi-Tap makes a nice connection vs. randomly butchering the wiring. If you're careful to remove insulation without nicking any copper wires you can do an old-school soldered splice then cover it with self-amalgamating tape. Try to avoid normal electrical tape as it won't be as waterproof.

Connect the +12 wire to the fused side of any of the constant on fuse box wires or straight to the battery through an inline fuse.

> I’ve not been able to power it at all, no matter what I do with the two leads?

The two power leads need +12V power and the ground lead needs to be connected to something connected to the battery (-) terminal. I would make damn sure the thing works before I did any modifications at all. Hook the ACC and +12V to the battery positive with jumper wires and the ground wire to the battery negative with a jumper wire. If it doesn't turn on it's broken.

If this is over your head, get help from someone experienced in wiring so you don't butcher up any wires in the bike's wiring loom.

If you do go with a high temperature RTV sealant, do make sure to get a product like this to remove it when you need to: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liqui-Moly-Seal-Remover-300ml/dp/B00295I2Q8/ref=sr_1_5_mod_primary_new?crid=7FS30D5J9BLY&keywords=permatex+gasket+remover&qid=1660421620&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=permatex+gasket+rem%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-5.

oh thank you for the information I wasn't aware batteries were considered dead when they drop below their base voltage, do you know if a battery tender/charger would be able to bring it back to life or regardless should I just replace the battery with one with higher cca? if so would this be sufficient?

Amazon Canada Link

> I have no idea where to get the strobing light

Widely available online or possibly at your local do-it-yourself auto parts store.

These are typical. You attach the red and black clips to the bike's 12V battery, and the inductive pickup coil slips over the high tension coil lead to the spark plug.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/draper-xenon-timing-light-495438.html

https://www.amazon.com/OBDMONSTER-Ignition-Inductive-Automotive-Motorcycle/dp/B07THTFKTZ

It's basically like a camera's electronic flash unit (not an LED).

I scanned your post history- your LCD screen on an Arduino was of interest. I've put a small LCD screen on a Raspberry Pi Zero to make a tire pressure monitor display for my car, so I have some idea of what you are capable of. I think this should work out OK if the CDI you got can be programmed to match the characteristics of the rotor's magnetic pole pieces.

I'd probably get something like this picker/grabber tool and fish around in there for a bit first before I dropped the pan. Plus they're good to have around anyway.

I've used this bolt extractor with success on small fasteners: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4CWHO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Alternatively, you could dremel a slot in the head and use a flathead to try and unscrew it.

an automotive spring compressor will be too big.

I have a set like this, i've used it once and it was a nerve wracking experience. and i have done about a dozen automotive struts with the similar but bigger sketchy compressors, the motorcycle spring just seemed scarier to me.

once you take the tension off you need to disassemble the black end. the spring seat probably lifts up and slides out.

as someone else stated, if this is a one time thing for you, just take parts the parts to a shop and pay them to do it. it'll probably be cheaper than the proper sized compressor.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09QCRL84M/ref=twister_B09RHTZSVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That one is my favorite. Works really well. Small camera to get in everywhere. Has pretty high quality images and video.

I have this that you connect to a phone: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07V3S1LSW/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1 it works fine. It's a semi rigid wire. I've used it to look into cylinders, check a stuck valve and so on.

Mikuni vm36 round slide, WAY better than the vacuum carb, as for the filter it's just a cheap washable filter off Amazon with a slight bend to clear the seat, also I had to get a different boot to connect to the head. I had to tinker with the jets to get the main right and adjust the floats, and it idles high until warmed up, but otherwise it's quick and reliable for me

Mikuni Round Slide VM Series Carburetor - 36mm VM36-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZK7LG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4B07QM261WJAXY0GHWNA

I’d reckon fuel pump then. But then again, when we were diagnosing my buddy’s stator it was giving good voltage too, problem is that it was intermittent because of a bolt that was slowly backing out.

Since the fuel pump is super easy to replace I’d just go for this cheap unit on Amazon. Has decent ratings too!

HFP-390-U Fuel Pump with Strainers, Replacement for Yamaha WR250R/WR-250R/WR 250R EFI (2008-2015) YZFR3 (2015-2018) Replaces 3D7-13907-10-00, 3D7-13907-00-00, 1WD-E3907-11-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9FJE9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HPA0KJE278NBWGK9ZA94

An easy-out should work. Also, you might try to twist the dipstick from the inside. Might give you enough leverage to get it to turn.

>is it ok if it's just a mild steel band? not sure where to get a stainless one (i'm from italy)

It's going to rust unless you paint it.

>1/2 what? centimeters i'm guessing?

" <-- means inches after a number so ½" or about 13mm.

The solid section of band from a screw/worm clamp works well. Auto parts, home construction, implement/machinery store.... should be able to find something long enough. Most are stainless & cheap.

I'm a fan of AEM UEGO gauges, they never need calibrated and in my experience are extremely reliable.

I tried an innovate wideband in my car and it was endless trouble. Constantly ate sensors and needed calibration, frequent errors. Total pain. Had 2 aems now and both were flawless.

They were $150 a year ago, stupid inflation

AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YVTJ1XZ78C6PXYST02XD

Q-bond or Rapid Fix is going to be the absolute best. I've broken a lot of plastics on dirt bikes and dual sports and this shit is strong and will hold forever.

https://www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/partFinder/fiche/yamaha/2019/yz250fx/electrical-2#partid-4876392

See #40. Looks like it's just above the rear fender, near/attached to the battery bracket under the seat.

Some pictures here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00578JVYG

That would work for a outside body filler.

Inside of the hole I would do a fiberglass resin and woven cloth kit for the strength and some rough filler to reshape before doing the body filler to get the finished profile.

There should be plenty of fiberglass fairing & boat hull repair videos out there to get a ides. Research before jumping in head first.

I’m not sure but your problem still seems like low compression. You’re not talking about a ton of money to rebuild it. Does it have low power? Go through the manuals troubleshooting but I’m sure it just needs a top end rebuild.

https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/carlosfaun/honda-xr250r-service-manual-19962004

It is best to always patch tires from the inside, but patching them from the outside can work just fine. I own this kit and have ridden 10k miles on a tire I patched with it without issue on my sportbike: Stop &amp; Go 1075 Standard Model Tire Plugger. If it doesn't work, you'll know because your tire will go flat, usually slowly.

Btw, your tires are in fact tubeless.

I routinely change my own tires and for my friends (7 bikes) I have found the two following tools to be the biggest help in mounting/ dismounting

lube

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bead busters (motion pro)

It is a D shaped screw head.

This is the tool. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-D-Shape-Replacement-08-0229/dp/B003CMWC4U

As an addendum to your point about an impact driver, a JIS impact screwdriver (size 2 or 3) would be best. Vessel makes my favorite, the "Impacta" series, this one in #2 size: https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-Impacta-P2x100-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B003BI8HHQ&amp;psc=1

That’s the right tool in the wrong size. The tappet screen plug is the size of a dime.

For this you want the bigger primary cover plug tool, which is more equivalent to what OP is trying to pop off.

I had the same issue and this solved the problem Amazon

Any auto parts store will have a valve stem tool or similar. That will allow you to tighten it up.

There isn't really a way to replace the whole stem without unmounting the wheel. They go in from the inside and are designed to not come out (which is a good thing, haha) so you really only have the one option.

For what you're trying to do a 6gal pancake compressor will do just fine. There are like 10 different brands of what is exactly this same air compressor out there so find the best deal and get it.

Works great for tires, blasting dirt and liquid, pretty much anything that doesn't require a full upright compressor. If you're the home improvement type it does really well with air nailers and the like.

There are tools to pop the center piece of the rivet up which un-expands the rivet. You can also carefully use a flathead screwdriver.

Note that these rivets tend to become brittle with age and easily break. You might want to have some spares.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Restoration/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3EKUUNC8JHGLB&amp;keywords=never+dull+metal+polish&amp;qid=1643992426&amp;sprefix=never+dull%2Caps%2C91&amp;sr=8-3. I’ve like the results from using this stuff.