On the contrary, Consumer Reports revealed some startling information about aluminum repairs, especially at certified-body shops: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/02/the-real-cost-of-repairing-an-aluminum-bodied-2015-ford-f-150/index.htm
Sometime in the past decade they moved all broadcast tv antennas to digital signals so none of those dials on the right will work anymore. It might work with a terrestrial analog to digital converter box. If It has RCA jacks you can use one of these Digital TV Converter Box, ATSC Cabal Box - ZJBOX for Analog HDTV Live1080P with TV Recording&Playback,HDMI Output,Timer Setting TV Tuner Function Set Top Box Digital Channel Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z5RGLK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_83A7S1YE8DP4JQ4E4P3B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 If not you can find them with coaxial outputs.
I'm sure this is part of the Takata airbag recall that is hitting almost every manufacturer. It's taken this long to issue the recall because the scale is so large, and it wasn't easily determined what parts made by Takata had the issue.
Have you tried driving a truck with each? I tried out a 2.7 and didn't notice any turbo lag. Consumer Reports also found the 2.7 was slightly faster than the 3.5 for 0-60 times: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/04/2015-ford-f-150-ecoboost-engine-shootout/index.htm
That is the case. Older vehicles were connected via Smart Device Link but with the latest update, Apple CarPlay is the only supported interface. On the upside, you can get an Apple Car Play module here (mine was half that at the dealer) and it's very easy to change out.
I can't see your second link for some reason but it sounds like your brake fluid pressure sensor needs replaced. Cheap fix.
The headlights are projectors by Spyder Auto with HID bulbs swapped in and the turn signals/corners are by Spec-D tuning.
Get yourself a honeycomb grill like this: https://www.amazon.com/APS-Compatible-Fusion-Stainless-Grille/dp/B005DSO97Y
Take your old grill and put it on ebay in the parts section to recover a big chunk of the cost.
The Impact is really more out of convenience. I can change a flat tire on my F150 in 15 minutes with the factory tools in 110 degree heat. With an Impact you don't have to break the lugnuts loose before you jack it up.
Laptop + ELM OBD to USB + Forscan
If you wanna get a car phone holder, you can refer to what I used
this is generally what a security lug is
That is a swollen nut, gets some new nuts that are not Ford brand
CupHolderHero fits Ford Edge Accessories 2020-2022 Premium Custom Interior Non-Slip Anti Dust Cup Holder Inserts, Center Console Liner Mats, Door Pocket Liners 28-pc Set (Red Trim) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TYCR4RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X4PSJM9MN0YVKN3NVDRJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That should attach to the hose that goes from the PCV valve to the back of the intake. There should be a t fitting with about a 120 degree outlet that the 90 degree elbow in your hand goes to. You can reference a heated pcv hose to see https://www.amazon.com/PCV-Hose-Assembly-Heated-Compatible/dp/B08KHWLFXT
Free 30 day trial code I found, just make sure to cancel it so you don’t get charged after the month. Have your wife try it, see if she likes it. They have lots of promos
Unless I want to mount/balance/install tires myself (I don't and I can't) it's required by law to have the TPMS installed on new tires. Sure, i'd like to save $$$ and not have them on my winter tires but I don't have much choice if i want tires installed at a reputable tire shop.
Compatible with Ford Replacement Key Fob Shell Case Cover Smart Keyless Entry Remote Blank Key Fit for Ford Edge Escape Explorer Focus Flex Taurus Fusion Lincoln MKS MKT MKX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012A3EWYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KGGVSTTY7H3V3REPX1HK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
From the FAQ:
>How do I get Android Auto to run on my car display?
For most compatible cars or aftermarket stereos, simply plug in your smartphone using a USB cable and Android Auto will launch automatically.
So it looks like cars with Android Auto built in will work without Bluetooth.
​
thanks for the help i always feel like i bang my head against a well working on fords i have worked on GM for work for years but only have owned fords
You have to enable Android Auto seperately in the settings before you can plug in. It stops some connected apps from working (FordPass).
If it doesn't appear as an option in settings, then I'm not sure there is much hope.
On the android website, it says only 17' model years and later are supported
Android Auto does list Ford as a company that would carry Android Auto. I'd do some customization to my car to allow this, but unfortunately I'm on a lease and not sure if that would go against the rules of my lease agreement. Either way, it looks beautiful and I want it!
Cause your two fords are Sirius tuners.
I rented a 18 maxima. It can tune channel 300. My 2018 Explorer can’t tune channel 300
I realize the advertising is shit and SiriusXM is a shit company but they actually sell 3 different tuners.
And get 2 different stations.
Tune me in your car Chan 300.
A Nissan can tune that. A gm can’t. Ford can’t. Why?
https://www.siriusxm.com/sxm/pdf/sxm/channelguide.pdf
Why can’t I tune Chan 300+?
I have the all everything package. Complete everything they have
It is the 4 cylinder and I don’t know when the timing belt was last done I will ask Tomorrow I’m going to look at it https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/332903320769359/. Here’s the link to the ad
T-Spec 4Awg 2100W Amp Kit With Rca - V10 Series,AMP Install Kits V10 Series (V10-RAK4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPRBANK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_J15F6BJ9YBZ7543YEVG1
The cable states what it is.. That USE to have an amplifier.
Are they round puddle lights? Iv installed these in f150s and some 2013-2014 fusions, never had a problem
You could try an inline spark plug tester. It's pretty cheap, and you can see which one is underperforming. In general, it is indeed better to go with OEM on the coils when you can.
I'd guess it's probably a 4.6L V8. I suspect you can probably get to all the spark plugs without having to remove the intake manifold. An F-150 I worked on from around that time required me to undo a bit of fuel rail, but it wasn't as tough as the 3.0 Duratec from the same year.
All said, I'm not a mechanic. I like to keep my stuff running, but I'm really only capable of some basic stuff. Doing some of the work lets me keep maintenance more affordable. Ford Tech Makuloko on YouTube is a great channel for Ford maintenance.
Perhaps another method could be to unplug one coil at a time. If it runs the same with it unplugged, that one's not igniting properly. Even better, inline spark plug tester.
Easy install in these trucks. The metra ascw-1 will retain the steering wheel controls. The back up camera in the mirror should not be affected by changing the radio. You can tie that into the new radio if you buy one that has a back up cam input. Check out the expedition forum for the wire colors and location.
You don't have to have two keys to self-program. You need ALL the programmed keys in order to self-program. My PATS on my F150 currently has 5 keys. Dealers typically won't delete any keys you don't have (So you have to come back and pay them $150).
However, since you own a FoMoCo vehicle, you can possibly self-program your own keys without the dealer. You'll need this OBD-II dongle, a windows pc, and lastly the forscan application with an extended license. You will need the new keys cut, which locksmiths will do for a couple dollars (they'll program too, for slightly less than the dealer.). Instructions on programming keys varies from vehicle to vehicle, Forscan's forums can help. If I give you the instructions for my F150, at the best you won't see the options I did. At worst you could bork your PATS. On my F150 the programming with Forscan took 20 minutes PER KEY. Furthermore, if your car has the fob integrated into the key head you have to do that step in addition to the PATS programming.
na, buy some good engine flush. change the oil yourself. buy pennzoil ultra platinum plus, change at 1k miles. see what this does.
I recommend
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR3RXTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WCGR9KZET487M9Z54NBT
If your screen already has a backup camera option/AV ins but you don’t have a camera installed: you’ll have to buy an aftermarket camera, get it installed (not very hard to do yourself if you’ve done electrical work) and run the wires properly to your head unit (screen). You’ll probably have to take the head unit out completely to find the connections you need, and you really wanna make sure you place the camera just right.
Personally, I didn’t wanna do all that work so I went with a rear view mirror camera that also works as a front/rear dash camera. I used this one
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the Mustang Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LBVLDRJ
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
I’ll also send you a DM in case you miss this.
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the Mustang Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LBVLDRJ
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
I’ll also send you a DM in case you miss this.
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the F-150 Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M3R839V.
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
I’ll also send you a DM in case you miss this.
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the F-150 Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M3R839V.
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
I’ll also send you a DM in case you miss this.
Sorry it took so long, but finally got the F-150 Generations poster listed for sale on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M3R839V.
If you’re interested in getting 40% off the poster, I have an early reviewer program for anyone who is willing to leave a review after receiving the print. Send me a message if you’re interested and I can provide the full details.
I’ll also send you a DM in case you miss this.
There are linked Here They are in Amazon.
I'm putting a sub in my 2017 escape this weekend. I bought a harness from Amazon so I don't have to splice into any factory wires, so everything is easily reversible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9W3CHY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OQ4AEb0APD0EB
I didn't see anything listed for a 2017 fusion, but there has to be one out there somewhere.
I swapped mine out for a set of these:
APS iBoard (Black 6-inch Wheel to Wheel) Running Boards Nerf Bars Side Steps Compatible with Ford F150 2015-2020 SuperCrew Cab 6.5ft Bed & F-250 F-350 Super Duty 2017-2020 Crew Cab https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079SMPMXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_EV0FFbF89HF2G
Here’s what they look like
Not a problem. Oh yeah. Hardest thing I ever had to do was working on control arms. It has no coil springs. I had to buy a specialty tool to release the torsion bar, and it was still really, really tough to get done. Main sign for me was a general rattling on all surfaces, even smooth.
I guess the very last thing I can offer: woodworking plans for a 10" stealthbox subwoofer that goes in the back right area, just inside the hatch.
Love how the Westin's are, my dad has a full brush guard from them on his 2013 Chevy Avalanche. Do you happen to have a link to where I could find the one you've got? I'm only able to find the Westin Push Bar Elite series for some reason when searching... Even when I search for the explorer model and not the police interceptor model. Thanks!
Edit: I think I may have found the model you're talking about - regardless, I love the double hood bar and I might just spend the extra $50 on this one: Westin 40-3625
The Toyo are not rated for sever snow. Over rated.
I installed lt285/70r17 load E yesterday.
"Amazon.com: Falken Wildpeak A/T3W all_ Terrain Radial Tire-LT285/70R17 121S 10-ply: Automotive" https://www.amazon.com/Falken-Wildpeak-All_Terrain-Radial-Tire-LT285/dp/B07C4NDP99
"Falken Wildpeak A/T3W P285/70R17 | TireBuyer" https://www.tirebuyer.com/tires/falken/wildpeak-a-t3w/p/tv093001473
You can get OBD1 scan tools for Fords from Amazon. The issue will be it won't work with anything but a Ford.
And you can count the blinks yourself, you just need a Decoder ring for them.
Yes. If you have a bedliner first remove the bedliner from the inside of the tailgate. There should be about 12 screws visible. I think they are Philips screws but they could be Torx. Remove all of them and set them aside. The inside panel should be free so remove it. You will see the latch mechanism in the center of the tailgate so you can grab each of the rods that control the latch and pull them to the center of the tailgate to release the latch at the bed corners. Your bed should be open now. There are two 10 mm nuts holding the handle to the mechanism. Remove both of those and the broken handle will fall out. Replace the broken handle with the new one and assembly is the reverse of these steps.
Very easy. Less than 15 minutes if you have a screwdriver and a 10 mm socket/ratchet.
I purchased a metal handle from Amazon for mine. The OEM handle is plastic and the one I removed from my 2011 was an aftermarket Dorman handle so the handle has broken on mine more than once. Hopefully the metal handle, which was a near exact replacement, will last the life of the vehicle.
I wouldn’t cheap out on brake parts. I installed the following parts in oct 2016 when my truck had around 28k miles and now at around 59k miles, brakes have been great!
Here’s what I used. I used Wagner rotors from rockauto part number BD126433E. And brakes pads from amazon Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1414 Ceramic Disc Pad Set With Installation Hardware, Front https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6BV08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4GSCCb3NT4TYV
Cheap ones read vac. The intake has no vac lines on an ecoboost it’s through a sensor. You have to plumb one in. Or get an obd2 boost gauge.
You have to add it to the engine.
Or get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/AUTOOL-Speedometer-Pressure-Overspeed-Vehicles/dp/B07CHDKN4C
Which use the obd2 port.
Have something like these, great quality but hopefully never need to use
Buy a tool off amazon, long flexible yet sturdy pole, has a flashlight on the end with a claw.
$7 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00275F5I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Think Arnold Schwarzenneger in Total Recall
Changing plugs doesn't fix the ejection issues on the 2 valve V8's. The problem is there are so few threads in the plug well that they fail from metal fatigue. My dad just last night lost Cylinder #3 on his 4.6L SOHC V8. He was just humming along at 65mph and it popped. Ripped nearly every thread out of the cylinder head. Thankfully he was less than a mile from a parts store and got a kit to fix the newly threadless spark plug hole.
Win Power 9012 LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit 6000k Cool White 7200 Lumens HIR2 Cree High/Low Headlight Bulb Replacement+ Canbus(1 Pair)-2 Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0X4X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u0JIAb8NTAZCC
This fits your car
No need, they'll grip the plastic plenty tightly. They should look like this. Auto parts stores should have them.
I put this one in my 2013 F-150:
I might have ordered it straight from Fortin, tho, as it came completely prewired (don't recall if I paid extra for that or not). It was quite literally "plug and play" (save for some programming that was pretty easy to do). They will need 2 key fobs to complete the programming, tho.
I also got the "Flashlink module" and tho it wasn't required, I was happy i did as the default remote start sequence was pushing the lock button 3 times, which on my truck means hearing the horn honk twice in a row. I used the programming module to change it to "lock/unlock/lock" instead.
As for quality/reliability, mine has never skipped a beat! This was my 3rd or 4th time installing an Evo in various vehicles so I had a bit of experience, but I think I had my truck remote starting in less than 30 minutes start-to-finish.
There is a shit fix that may work depending on how bad it is. The real fix will cost $$$$, depending on the dealer, replacing the head will total your vehicle.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42025-HELP-Cylinder-Repair/dp/B000TYVU1U
This guy show the real repair, but, he is good, there is no guarantee the dealer will have someone good there. I wouldn't let our mechanics feed the pigs.
$25-$35 depending on where you buy the key from. This videos gives you all the information and also includes programming. Do not go to the dealer because it's a very simple process which they like to charge big $ for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK6qs3jwdys
Keys can be purchased anywhere like ebay or Amazon, for example: https://www.amazon.ca/Keyless2Go-Keyless-Replacement-OUCD6000022-164-R8067/dp/B00XZ9PEL8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1480021273&sr=8-14&keywords=ford+f150+key
There's a handful of manufacturers that make rearview mirrors with screens for back up cameras. This for example
None of these have overly flattering reviews, but this type of tech does exist.
If you have a flat with a hole in your tire, the use of tire sealant makes the tire non serviceable. Once it touches steel belts it's over, it also ruins your tpms.
My recommendation would be to get a dc tire inflator and aaa. Also places like sams club fixes flats for free are open 7 days a week.
LifeLine AAA 300 PSI 12 Volt DC Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SL4AA2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9bQdybK1VBT04
Yeah. Another thing you can do is throw in the Monroe shocks that have coil springs.
I actually changed my leafs and put those Monroes in as well. They certainly help and are a quick & easy install. ETA: If you go with those shocks you want to lift up the back by lifting on the frame to let the axle sag as much as possible. Then you'll probably have to get a floor jack under the bottom of the shock to get it to compress to be able to get the bottom bolt through.
In the future, use should use something more akin to 303 Aerospace Protectant rather than Armour All, since that can crack plastic. Still, looks great! I have an '01 Escape and it's funny seeing the little bits and pieces Ford used in both cars.
Also, $34 with free shipping on Amazon if you have Prime.
It actually belonged to my buddy in the picture before me. He got a new bumper and gave it to me and a police officer friend of mine helped me install it. My buddy paid ~140 for the light bar originally.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQXKG46/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_IQg9ub1C58YP9
read the owners manual, for seats it says to use http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-430033-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398478927&sr=8-2&keywords=lexor
also maguires makes alot of good products.
I recommend this kit to my customers and I'm running two of these myself. You will have to drill two holes one for the switch and one for the port but you can put them anywhere, they give you enough wire.
This is the setup that I stock at the shop and usually install at least 4 a month.
You need a PIE adapter. It plugs into the CD changer port on the back of the radio and provides you with stereo audio RCA port, that activates whenever you hit the AUX button. You can usually find them on ebay or by searching the web.
You will need to tap power lines for the device to work. I do not remember which lines I tapped when I installed mine, but I went with a switched source so it was not always powered.
I've been told that my F-150 has a system that will deactivate up to 4 cylinders in the event that the system was overheating. Because of this system (to the best of my knowledge) it is virtually impossible to overheat the engine. I am still looking for more information on the topic.
I monitor my gauges very closely, I have a coolant and transmission temperature gauge. Even on the hottest day or driving 16 hours to Disney World they have never reached 50% of their maximum value.
If the fluid normally does last to 100K then my best guess is at some point a bonehead mechanic may have contaminated it with windshield wiper cleaner because it was yellow and not bright green. I let my dad borrow the truck for a few weeks and he had the oil changed at Jiffy Lube with standard oil. Deicing windshield wiper fluid does contain a lot of ethylene glycol especially the nicer brands (environmental concern?). It wouldn't put the engine at risk for popping a freeze plug but the salt in the wiper fluid may have assisted the corrosion.
I always change my own fluids just a helpful tip is that Royal Purple oil is significantly cheaper than Castrol Edge ($7.47/qt vs. $8.99) when bought on Amazon in a case of 12. I have Amazon Prime so it's at my door within two days for free.
I'm at work right now and eBay is blocked here, so I can't view that link. It's something like this
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5606-Compression-Tester-Kit/dp/B000R5CPAQ
It's just a PSI gauge that's threaded like a spark plug on the hose end. Most of them will come with a few different adapters, to fit different types of spark plugs. There isn't much else you can check on without starting to take the engine apart.
This book is pretty good on the motor, has all the interchange and specs. Ford offered an "off highway parts manual" with all the factory info on the motor, it's still around, not much on the fe and only goes to 71 when the hipo program ended. The first set of heads I ever did was from my teachers 390 truck, he said to look them up, it turned out he had 427 medium riser heads on his 390 from the factory. But really, the manifold weighs about 100 lbs, it'll kill ya if you try to take it off in the truck!
TomTom makes an android version:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tomtom.gplay.navapp
I'm not familiar with others, but if the app takes up a good amount of storage on your phone, it most likely won't require data. The only thing the tomtom gps app uses data for is traffic updates or searching points of interest via a built in search engine.