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![LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX4090 RX6950XT x570 B550 Z690 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Reverse GPU Socket {23cm} Designed for ITX](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31OYW2Of-DL._SL500_.jpg)
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Anyone telling you just to go a hardware store doesn't understand what the actual issue here is: you have a bolt in imperial threading (#6-32) but a metric length (20 mm). They do. not. exist.
Many rads use M3 screws. Others (like EK) use 6-32. They are not interchangeable unless you want to re-thread the holes (which is possible, but you also risk deformation and cross threading without a proper tool).
Some people will tell you to use 3/4" screws, since that corresponds to 19.05 mm and should be "close enough". I bought some and unfortunately they were slightly too short (just the fans --> rad, not even with a bracket in between as it will be in the case). The threading holes in the radiator are slightly recessed, so you need 20 or 21 mm. Your best bet is going to be buying 1" screws and a wire stripper like this which has a bolt cutter built in especially for 6-32 threading. Then cut them to the proper length.
Thank's for the hand off u/wispy-matt. u/SuprBrown, I'm in Canada and generally get mine from Amazon US. They also happen to be in stock now!
My rear M.2 NVMe drive was hitting 78c while gaming, hitting 80c during SSD benchmarking in Samsung Magician before throttling down to 70c.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X8WCY2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I purchased the above heatsink from amazon and covered the controller portion of the drive with the other half over the motherboard back plate. The thermal pad sits on both the NVME controller and the motherboard (not perfectly flush) to transfer heat.
Without heatsink - 80c
With heatsink - 65c
If you’re concerned about high heat on the rear M.2 slot, this will fix it!
I have two quick things to point out I think we can discuss. The apogee drive ii is another option for the CPU block/pump. I've been in contact with swiftech and they are getting stock periodically. 2nd, just a note on my personal experience, and I believe fabios too, the dc-lt 2600 ultra is the same pump in the lt240 as OT noted. However, mine was no where near virtually silent. It's good. But it's so small and it just has a high pitch noise. I have open back headphone and when it ramps up I could easily hear it and it's annoying. Only when connecting a 7v adapter and then limiting it to 60% was I satisfied. Truly the DDC pp is the way to go if you can. Just my 2cents no one asked for.
Edit: also great write up! I've been following the thread for a long time and this is fantastic. Definitely some new information for me still
Edit 2: for filling the loop with the dc-lt alphacool makes a fill kit that is what I used for filling the loop and it works perfectly
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-11687-Eisbaer-Cooling-Systems/dp/B07QS3L5QN
I replied above. Here is it:
Hey I recorded my part list and process here: https://www.notion.so/congp/Water-cooled-FormD-T1-build-659ca827869b4c69917c543d4c8ea902
Temps are really good. I get 36°C (CPU) and 31°C (GPU) on idle and just played Shadow of Tomb Raider on ultra for two hours and the temps were 54°C (CPU) and 52°C (GPU)! I used to get 70°C (CPU) and 76°C (GPU)!
I don't have a coolant temp sensor so I couldn't tell you but I'm planning to get one in the future!
Hey I recorded my part list and process here: https://www.notion.so/congp/Water-cooled-FormD-T1-build-659ca827869b4c69917c543d4c8ea902
Temps are really good. I get 36°C (CPU) and 31°C (GPU) on idle and just played Shadow of Tomb Raider on ultra for two hours and the temps were 54°C (CPU) and 52°C (GPU)! I used to get 70°C (CPU) and 76°C (GPU)!
I don't have a coolant temp sensor so I couldn't tell you but I'm planning to get one in the future!
This should be plenty. I used it in a similar build as yours and it has more than enough coverage and slack.
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX3090 RX6900XT x570 B550 Z590 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Reverse GPU Socket {23cm} Designed for ITX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092JV2BH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B0CCMY2ZWPZ4BGQ3YKHF?psc=1
I bought a Freezemod pump-res combo from Amazon. I went with 17cm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPHBXKN/ but you could go smaller.
But I also reused that pump for an external radiator.
If you want something even cheaper you can just grab a filling funnel attachment.
I was also struggling with hot M.2 temperatures and now use this on my 970 EVO Plus. I see 80C max now. Still hot, but better!
If price is no object, I'd suggest the Louqe Gen4 riser cable: https://www.amazon.com/LOUQE-Cobalt-RC260-Twinax-Riser/dp/B08D88XFDT.
Hehe, they're some turntable/amp feet I had lying around, got them on Amazon...You'll need to source your own fasteners to make them work as none of the T1 vanilla screws are long enough:
RAM might be in your way, since the GPU is triple slot and you can't use 2 slot mode.
I would go for this one its basically no performance loss, but allows to route your AiO tube runs over it.
Regarding CPU I would either go 5600x or 5900x. 5800x is not a good value, since it has the same cache as the 5600x.
Otherwise looks good :)
Phanteks NEONs
Amazon Link
you can get an extension for the rear ssd.
something like this amazon.com/ASHATA-Extension-Cable-Solid-State/dp/B07RWNBSJR/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=ssd+nvme+extension&qid=1601402213&sr=8-6
I bought this one off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0898QMB6D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
PCI gen 4 will be necessary if you want maximum performance from the new RTX 3000 series cards. Your Mobo and riser will bottleneck if it's not rated for PCI gen 4.
Screws for the most part are M3 countersunk. Standoffs are M3 in 8mm and 20mm lengths. For the screws, I forget the actual lengths included for the T1, but Amazon has a 250pcs kit from iExcell that covers 6mm-16mm lengths but are hex socket instead of phillips. I however, haven't found the smaller M3 screws that the FormD uses for mounting the fan/radiator rails and SSDs.
Link to the screw kit: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073J4CRZV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_2MMJH0Y0WB0YW7P6962J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Easiest would be to get longer thumb screws because the stock ones are a bit short. There's still some wire unused
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I think these are the ones you'd want
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Knurled-Phillips-Thumb-Computer/dp/B01N3YYZB9
The EK AIO has a lightly thicker radiator than the Corsair H100i. That is one of the reasons I returned the EK to amazon. I was never able to get the top on without pushing the fan into the top of the motherboard.
You could also try these thinner fans. https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-SY1212SL12L/dp/B002CYPWTG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Hey, thank you so much for your reply!
I'll definitely look more into the EK and H60i AIOs you mentioned. If possible, I'd want to get ones that either have tubing thin enough to fit in the ~6mm space I'll have between the RAM and the side panel, or tubing that's just long enough to route around other parts and not get caught on or blocked by anything.
If the deshrouded GPU doesn't fit with standard thickness fans, then I'll try slim fans and see how the performance with those works out, but the worst-case scenario would be to just find new screws to reattach my original shroud back on. Also forgot to mention that my GPU had a metal backplate for it and I think my measurement was from the fan to the backplate, but measuring from the fan to the PCB seems to be around 56mm.
Also for the low profile connectors, would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDEBGSQ
I'm also planning on using pslate SATA power cables, so hopefully, those will fit the sandwiched SSDs.
I'm guessing you're asking where I got them?
They're the only mini antennae I could find in white, so I went for them. Turns out they perform super well, especially for their size.
I just installed a blackridge with two slim 120mm fans with 2 slot gpu. I believe it comes very close to the L12 according to the optimum tech youtube review. I bought it over the L12 and L12S because of the flexibility to make it best in class 47mm cooler or add fans to make it competitive with 70mm coolers. I think it compliments well the flexibility of the formd t1.
VLP ram is a must if you want to use 120mm fan under the heatsink. 92mm is significantly louder. L12 with 120mm under fan may be able to fit your current ram setup.
I bought these sticks and they run stable on first try at 3000mhz
Already available on Amazon for the same price as the EK120 ($90US): https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Radiator-Single-Software-Control/dp/B08PHVQBM6
I couldn't find explicit specs regarding pump PWM control or tubing length, but hopefully the latter would allow for more flexible pump orientations. The 300mm of the EK120 was fairly limiting for both Intel and AMD systems.
18cm is very tight, and from the people that have used it, they have said you can make it work, but they would recommend going with a longer one if possible. If you go with the 18cm one, make sure it is a double reverse connector (a 180 degree bend on both ends of the cable)
A single reverse GPU socket longer than 19cm but shorter than 26cm is what I would recommend. This one is the one I normally recommend people
These look a little bigger and they do come with hardware, which is nice.
https://www.amazon.com/Bewinner-Amplifier-Aluminum-Speaker-Vibration/dp/B07QQB3KM3?th=1
They're ~double the OEM nubs we get for feet. Better than nothing in terms of raising it up for a little extra airflow. I *did* have the computer raised on two blocks of steel prior to my Auxiliary Fan Shelf
I'm sure you can find the dimensions for a USB C hole; so long as your MOBO has a USB C header you could route one to the front with this
Thank you!! These antennas were actually from a company called SFF Noir. I wanted something low profile that I could leave permanently affixed without too much issue. Check them out here.
I have a 2TB Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus on the back. The drive never overheated, but it did throttle without some sort of heatsink. Prior to installing this heatsink w/ a Fujipoly thermal pad the drive would throttle speeds. In CrystalDiskMark I was only getting about half the read and write speeds. Once I installed the heatsink I was able to get full speeds. I am using a Linkup riser cable that is a little longer than the stock riser cable, so that allows me some extra slack for clearance.
I tried countersunk screws, and they still were a bit higher to fully close the top panel. So I used these instead.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DS6116L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Performance wise there is no difference between using a modern GPU on PCIe 3.0 compared to PCIe 4.0. Ease of use wise is where things get more complicated.
When you have a PCIe 4.0 motherboard and a PCIe 4.0 GPU, putting a PCIe 3.0 riser in the middle of them can cause problems, like no video output, because the riser cannot carry the Gen 4 signal that both the components think will be fine. You can solve this by changing the PCIe mode in the BIOS to Gen 3, but if you update your BIOS, or if it resets for some reason, then you have to go back into the BIOS to change the setting again. Thing is, to get into the BIOS, you have to connect the GPU directly to the motherboard to actually get video signal. If you use a Gen 4 riser, then there will be none of these problems.
Basically, if you have a Gen 4 motherboard and a Gen 4 GPU, then you might want to consider getting a Gen 4 riser cable (like this one) to replace the stock riser cable that comes with the T1. If you Have a Gen 4 motherboard, but a Gen 3 GPU (or a Gen 3 Mobo and a Gen 4 GPU) then the stock riser will be just fine.
You can read more on the reasoning on why FormD doesn't have a PCIe 4.0 riser option yet in this post, and make sure to read the pinned comment under the post, as it gives even more information. A Gen 4 riser for the T1 should eventually come, but it might be a while.
Maybe these dual reverse ones. I'm am not sure on the length between 18, 20, 22cm but if you look at the 6th image, they recommend 18cm with the T1 so you get your choice of black or white.
Ah okay, that would do it. Now it's normally priced for freedom units
u/Defiant_Course_5511 if you haven't already bought one from the linkup website, here it is on amazon!
Without having to make compromises due to the space constraints of the T1, I don't think so. I too was in your position and didn't want to deal with making space where space isn't already available, so I just went with a docking station lol.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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May not be the answer you're looking for, but definitely an easier route IMO.
Nice.
For those that don't have a USB-C front header and still want to do this, you can always convert USB3.0 (3.1 Gen2) header with this adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_i_4OibGbWAWEJJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sure, it’s just an Arctic brand one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-ACFAN00085A-fan-grill-silver/dp/B075S6HSW7
Tbh I picked it more based on delivery date than anything since it was kind of a last minute idea!
I tried out both the antennas you used as well as these. After some testing, I found that the slightly longer antennas I linked get noticeably better signal strength especially for 5Ghz wifi signal (similar performance as the original Gigabyte antenna that came with my motherboard)
No the command strip is for attaching the round magnets to the case. The magnet pads don’t need adhesive because they come with adhesive on one side. Here is a link for the command strip. But you could use any strong double sided tape.
u/NavicNick u/EngineeredtoCombust
Is this the Link Up PCI-E 4.0 cable that would work in the FormD T1case? Which configuration -- I saw 'reversed' orientation get thrown around, but no clue?
First I tried an aftermarket ek low profile heatsink. It ended up being a tight fit but I got everything in there (2 slot mode). I still had over heating problems and a 2tb 2.5 laying around so I went with that. When I have the time I might switch to three slot mode and try again. I want to say the issue had more to do with too much heat for the riser cable than anything else. My cpu and gpu thermals were fine but I kept getting an overheating audible warning.
This is the heatsink I used:
EKWB EK-M.2 NVMe Heatsink, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RHHYCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_iYIjYdRpnufNa
They are on Amazon under uxcell speaker feet. Cheapest I found was on Walmart. https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-Pcs-20x10mm-Silver-Tone-Aluminum-Cabinet-CD-PC-Speaker-Amplifier-Feet-Pads/967642399
Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SYS49I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_FKGSFb4B1S4JW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yep! You need that bifurcation PCB (ask cpayne for the 3d printed bracket for mounting), and this ADT riser. Then you just need a motherboard that supports bifurcation of its 16x riser, gigabyte x570 and ASRock x570 both do this. Some Asus boards could work but probably too much trouble than it's worth. ASRock has probably the most boards with bifurcation capabilities.
Hey! So i ordered a tool with soft tips, that hopefully wont damage them too much!
Tsunoda, PL-150SC-S PLA-iers, Replaceable Resin Jaw Pliers w/built-in-spring (6-inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756N84VK/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_ertrFbDJS08FY
Silverstone Tundra Slim is 22mm thick https://www.amazon.de/SilverStone-SST-TD02-Slim-V2-Wasserk%C3%BChler-extra-flachem-mm-PWM-L%C3%BCftern/dp/B071NFDNY2
SilentiumPC Navis 240mm is 28mm thick but considering price and amazon's free return policy is worth trying. https://www.amazon.de/SilentiumPC-Navis-ARGB-Wasserk%C3%BChlung-240mm/dp/B07VPVVRTW/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_pl_PL=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=navis+240&qid=1596219368&quartzVehicle=120-1136&replacementKeywords=nav...
I got this one EKWB EK-CoolStream Classic SE 240 Slim Radiator, Dual Fan, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R6FKSBV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_r67cFbCDAY6D0 apparently its this one so i think im good https://youtu.be/CXmQr0V2ziA
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XKHDJG1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ByQaHLBcdTh6l
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^preformed ^^^automatically.
I found some 4x3 on Amazon and they work great, need some extra pad on top to prevent the magnet from coming out of the hole along with side panel. here is the link
Also I plan on selling those magnets individually along with other t1 compatible hardware on hwswap.
Yeah but it's not that much more if you paid for it on a US site at $110 + shipping or 120 shipped on amazon... the LT240 is 90 EUR on their site... so 140 EUR shipped is 155 USD
I thought it was worth and pulled the trigger
edit: just saw the PCC price... that's a tough price to beat lol
That shouldn't be caused by the cable that comes with the case, but instead the cable that came with your PSU. You can find many replacement C14 power cables on places like amazon.
I have that motherboard. With both my EVGA 2080 Super XC Gaming and my EVGA 2080ti XC Ultra, when the GPU was under load, the drive warmed up and throttled in certain games, even if those games werent using the drive. If they were (like BF2042) then it was even worse.
I got this 2mm thick heatsink and a 40mmx10mm noctua fan to cool the drive. With just the heatsink, temps dropped by 10c. Adding the fan into the mix (controlled with FanControl based on drive temp) dropped another 10c.
That cooler will be fine for that CPU. The CPU will get hot, but that is just how the 5800x3d runs. An AIO is basically necessary if you don't want to power limit the CPU a lot.
For the PSU, I would strongly recommend the Corsair SF750. It is the best SFX PSU on the market right now, even compared to 850w options.
For the rear m.2, some people dont have overheating issues, but others do. I was one of the people that did have overheating issues, so I got a 2mm thick heatsink (specifically this one, but it seems to be unavailable, this one is similar but doesn't have the rubber bands to keep it in place, but the thermal pad should stick well enough, i just wouldnt trust it for long travels) and that dropped temps by 10c, and then pointing a 40mm Noctua fan at the heatsink dropped another 10c. You won't be able to point a fan at the heatsink though if you go with a tall GPU like the one you have in your list right now.
That GPU will be cutting it really close to fitting or not fitting in this case. If you can find a similar card that is under 140mm tall, then I'd be more comfortable with that. The card you have now might work, but there's a chance it might not as well.
Nah. I’m happy with the current setup. It’s sufficient cooling for my use case.
PS: this is the grill I tried
Savant PCs 120mm Case Fan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CF2T5Q3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is a really portable setup, and looks awesome.
Have you considered shorter wifi antenna, like these? Would cut down on a cable, since you can just leave it plugged in the back. It's what I use with my sff PC. https://www.amazon.com/2-4GHz-Wireless-Module-Antenna-Omnidirectional/dp/B076SGTMFS/
That definitely is a handy chart! Let's do some practical research. So the silver wire I ordered on Amazon has arrived. This is the stuff. The spec on it is AFR250 PTFE wire 18awg, stranded copper that is silver-plated, and 0.75mm2 diameter. The chart says this should be 1mm diameter wire, but the insulation is definitely thinner than standard UL1007 so it should be skinnier than standard 18awg. It also has a bit more of a rigid feeling to it as compared to the OEM corsair sleeved wires which I was using before, and silicone insulated 18awg I have. Here are some pics to compare the three. So yeah the .75mm2 looks exactly like 1 mm to me, the core of each wire looks the same, and with the thin insulation this looks to measure about 1.5mm total. And with silver plating it's pretty neat lookin. Always good to have a friendly ear/adviser to work through things with! I definitely think the measurement refers to the core, which is good because I need this to handle whatever current the other wires handled. As long as this insulation can handle the heat, which it appears it can.
yea they should include them. Thx so much for the help. Also do you think these would work? https://www.amazon.com/870Pcs-Phillips-Machine-Assortment-Countersunk/dp/B0B23NFKQ6/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=MOQD10N8ZTAR&keywords=machine%2Bscrew%2Bassortment%2Bkit%2Bblack&qid=1662232042&s=industrial&sprefix=machinescrew%2Bassortment%2B...
>20mm (or slightly shorter 3/4 in) 6-32 machine screws
do you think these would work? https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9003132-Machine-Phillips-Stainless/dp/B074ZXQTF1/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZNTWO1BDQ0VP&keywords=20mm+6-32+machine+screws&qid=1662227516&sprefix=20mm+6-32+machine+screws%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-3
Thanks so much for the help btw
This is how I transport my setup whenever I travel via land, when I travel via air it’ll be my carry on in a Nanuk case like I’ve posted previously.
Thankfully the Vanguard 40 case can carry everything I need short of a headset which I’m still figuring so if anyone has some recommendations please let me know.
PC Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5600x MoBo:
Asus B550i GPU: 3080ti FE
RAM: GSkill 32GB 3600 CS 14
PSU: SF750 with PSlate custom cables
Case: FormD T1 v1.1
Travel Case: [Vanguard 40 Camera Case](https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-DIVIDER-BAG-40-Camera/dp/B003G2YZLY/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=323VN7PB1KI6G&keywords=vanguard+40&qid=1662019252&s=electronics&sprefix=vanguard+40%2Celectronics%2C154&sr=1-2)
Monitor: Asus XG16AHPE
Monitor Stand: [Amazon link](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089K6C49L?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details)
Keyboard: Keychron K7
Mouse: Logitech G Pro X Superlight
Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Mobile
I took someone's advice from the discord and bought from Newark. These 6mm ones.
Shipping was cheap to east coast Canada, and the fittings themselves are reasonably priced. No complaints here.
I used this but I’ve actually backed out on using the wireless receiver in the chassis because it isn’t as reliable and disconnects sometimes. Its definitely a cool gadget since the IO on my rig is facing the desk.
I just got these. Tested them last night, and even with my 3080Ti jumping up to 430+ watts in a game for some reason these cables handled the sudden power draw just fine. Highly recommended if you don't want to go the route of paying more for custom PSU cables
Thanks! I believe I used these. Or something like them. I'm happy with the reception... I'm getting about 600DL/500UL on them so they are definitely full bandwidth.
Yeah those corsair cables are pretty long for this case... I had the same problem in my build. I wound up getting an extra set for like 35 bucks on amazon and chopping them up myself, it's an option!
I found these fittings online one day. They looked small and elegant and simple, being push-fit. I searched for tubing that would work, and eventually after testing several different varieties I found THIS which is available on amazon and fits perfectly! There are so many options, copper and stainless with different ID/OD combinations. First did a build with copper tubing which was righteous, and for this one went stainless. The only customization needed was the finish, which I did using sandpaper up to 3000 to give it that shine. Oh and cutting (standard pipe cutter) and tapering (used a drill as a DIY lathe and the dremel to contour the ends). I was happy with the results. Just had to make sure that the runs were VERY secure since they are push-fittings, like reinforced without any play. Don't want them popping out. But honestly, they feel so so secure and the builds I've done with these materials have been the most rock-solid of any in my experience... the PETG and acrylic tubing is delicate... well much more delicate than stainless! Soft tubing is awesome but it can puncture. I seriously feel like I can carry this thing around without any fear. Everything is held absolutely FAST in place.
Go for a single reverse. The 18cm double reverse would be way too tight with the backplate, and the 19cm double reverse would have to make some very uncomfortable and tight bends.
If the one you linked is the one you purchased (ie, a completely straight cable with no bends at the connector ends), then the problem comes from not having a 180 degree reverse connection at the GPU end. This means you have to bend the cable backwards, which uses up length. You instead want something like this, which has the reverse connection at the GPU end.
So I was looking for a PCIe 4.0 compatible riser cable to upgrade my v1.1 build and decided to try the LINKUP brand on Amazon. I picked up the 20cm straight version linked here. The build quality is excellent, and the ribbon cable is perfectly capable of making the tight bends to suit the sandwich layout of this case. Only issue is the 20cm version is too short, at least my unit was. My total ribbon cable length was 206mm, which fits in the advertised +/- 2cm, but I needed another 1cm or so. I’ll be trying the 25cm version of this riser cable next. Just a fair warning to those looking at this product.
Do you mean 180 degree power connectors for the GPU?
If so: https://www.amazon.com/Female-AngledPower-Adapter-Desktops-Graphics/dp/B07P5R258Q
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-internal-adapter-Converter-AK-CBUB52-50BK/dp/B08GPCTRV5/ yeah usb 3.0 UK only :(
I found it on Amazon:
Akasa USB 3.1 Gen 1 internal adapter cable with dual USB 2.0 Type-A ports | PCI Bracket | 5 Gb/s | Type-C Type-A Converter | AK-CBUB53-40BK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GPDK2H7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MP2N8V4NXC0CB4P6C7TD
I couldn't fit this heat sink in with the back plate and the included 2 thermal pads. Thermal Grizzly NVMe M.2 SSD Cooler
The gpu was pressing onto the top of the heatsink.
So I just used one thermal pad on top of the m.2 drive and moved the back panel to the front. I bent the those tabs inward to make them flat.. I hope that makes sense. I didn't take any pictures.
I also have the M2426. The thing is great for reducing cables.
Also it has a JST connector which can be used for any thing SATA or Molex. You just need to get the JST connectors and pins and 16 gauge wire to make the cable.
I used the JST port (12v & 5v) to power my DCC pump on the Aquanaut Extreme. I actually removed the SATA header and replaced it with a JST.
I plan to also splice in a SATA powered fan hub in the near future in preparation for adding the GPU and second radiator into the loop when the V2.0 arrives.
You could do the same for the SATA power on your EK AIO.
I also have the M2426. The thing is great for reducing cables.
Also it has a JST connector which can be used for any thing SATA or Molex. You just need to get the JST connectors and pins and 16 gauge wire to make the cable.
I used the JST port (12v & 5v) to power my DCC pump on the Aquanaut Extreme. I actually removed the SATA header and replaced it with a JST.
I plan to also splice in a SATA powered fan hub in the near future in preparation for adding the GPU and second radiator into the loop when the V2.0 arrives.
You could do the same for the SATA power on your EK AIO.
Hey OP,
I feel like we're in the same boat, here are the links I've found for my research on my build which may be similar.
https://www.notion.so/Water-cooled-FormD-T1-build-659ca827869b4c69917c543d4c8ea902
Hey, I updated my Notion page with the diagram! Hopefully, my terrible graphic design skill makes sense to you...Let me know if you have any questions! I also realized that I didn't have any 28mm extender in my build. It was actually a 14mm! I also updated the table.
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CXKF496/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_TN596XG02J3PJXZ8V75Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I will say they have quality control issues though, had to replace the first one. Hard to beat 1440p at < $200 when it was in stock, though that was also with deals at the time. I have no idea what they would charge now. Also, it technically has freesync, but for some reason if I have freesync enabled on the monitor I don't get display output on the monitor from my PC. Only works with freesync disabled with my PC. Its also only a 60hz monitor. Definitely acceptable for a travel monitor to me though, so long as you get a good unit.
Do you happen to know how thick I was thinking of this one but I have a feeling this is to thick MHQJRH M.2 2280 SSD heatsink, Double-Sided Heat Sink, with Thermal Silicone pad for PC / PS5 M.2 PCIE NVMe SSD or M.2 SATA SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KDDKDNN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_5S44K5ARVQ5MFC4Y926Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For anyone interested, these are the screws I ended up getting. They fit perfectly flush when using a 15mm fan on a radiator: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B096KKDMWH/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went off what other T1 users on this sub recommended and got this bag from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0812Z1MZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, multiple users recommended it to me so I felt confident in using it. I padded it on all sides with clothing and wrapped my T1 in a hoodie, I have flown it before with no issues but I definitely would not continue to recommend this anymore to anyone after this experience
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX3090 RX6900XT x570 B550 Z590 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Reverse GPU Socket {23cm} Designed for ITX
anyone with heat issues with the NVMe sandwiched on the back of the MoBo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0992C2HJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Noooooo!!! If that is the case, I am going to be extremely disappointed. I would either...
a. have to purchase a new cooler
b. purchase new modules
Here are the modules I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083V93HJG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
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I would probably just purchase new modules. I was under the impression these were low profile. Yes, I understand they aren't the lowest profile DIMMs but they aren't anywhere near as tall as standard modules you see nowadays.
Woops, try this: Permanent Adhesive Vinyl 12 Inches by 20 Feet Matte Black Vinyl Rolls for Signs, Scrapbooking and Craft Cutters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W56SS2N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C1GG10JYRV78X236Y1C2
Steel Pan Head Machine Screw, Black Oxide Finish, Meets ASME B18.6.3, #2 Phillips Drive, #6-32 Thread Size, 3/4" Length, Fully Threaded, Import (Pack of 100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F34XH6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZBSJ4TF61F3N85AEBR4V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got these. Do you think they’ll work? If not I’ll go with these, plus these look nicer
I just decide to went this one since it fits perfectly in T1 and less contact with the back of your GPU
Very helpful information! Thank you so much, looks like the screws I have, have the same diameter and thread 6-32. Guessing most AIOs use the same threading. Hopefully with my Silverstone 15mm FW124-ARGB fans they have enough material to be countered sinked. Thanks again.
I tapped the holes on fan frame with a countersink drill bit so the screws are flush with the top surface of fans.
The mini antennas are great. Performs well and fits the look of the T1.
All good. The cap screws I used have a countersink angle of 82°. I found a countersink drill bit with a 82° point angle. Tapped out just enough material from the fans so that the top of each cap screw is flush with the fan frame & cap screws sit snugly in new holes. This will allow you to close the top panel.
- Countersunk Head Cap Screws [6-32 x 3/4" for EK AIO Rad + nf-a12x15]
- Amazon Link
- No countersink angle specified but I believe those are 82°.
- Amazon Link
- 82-degree point countersink drill bit
Top fans do not move once mounted. The nf-a12x25 between the rad and psu is wedged in there pretty good.
Yes, I still have the label on and I also use my M.2 drive for OS. I read a GN article a few years ago about MSI's heatsinks actually heating up the drive, but I imagine they have improved on that design since then. If you're curious try testing it out for yourself by running the drive without the heatsink. You can use CrystalDiskMark to benchmark your drive speeds, which will also simulate the drive under heavy load so it's good for benchmarking worst-case temps as well.
As far as normal temps for M.2 drives go, it depends on the drive itself. I know that NVMe drives run hotter than SSDs. Personally I think less than 60°C is ideal, but 70° C won't negatively impact the performance or drive lifespan as far as I know. As long as you're not hitting 85°-90° C then you're fine.
Here is the VPN I use: https://www.getlantern.org/zh_CN/
The free version will do. Ironically, sometimes the free version works better than the Pro version.
As for the credit card, it is quite easy to get. I've been using it to shop on Amazon US, Amazon JP, yahoo auction japan, etc. And because it has unionpay you can also use it in China.
The included foam stickers that came with the case (i realize you dont have them from original seller) eliminated most rattle. Some foam stickers can be purchased off Amazon for cheap and cut to size. And, Magnets. Small 4x3mm magnets can be put into the holes in the cross-brace and along the vertical portions of the inner ribbed frame. Some of those can also be picked up off Amazon.
I used these screws to mount all 3 15mm fans to the tx with the radiator ports towards the front of the case. They fit under the top lid and didn't get in the way
These are the ones I am currently using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ191Z6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details They are heavy duty, rubber and larger diameter.
I tried some small height feet that were aluminum but the color was off and the bottom clearance was only about half and inch.
Something like what you linked, or something like this.
No word on cable lengths. I'd imagine it would be similar, if a bit shorter, than Ncase M1 cables.
I was thinking that might be the case. You might want to consider some larger rubber feet to get better air flow on the bottom. This what I used on mine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ191Z6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. It is amazing how much comes out the bottom even with the fans pulling air in.
After failing today, I'm going to be on the lookout for reviews for the 2.0 and hope it's a great case.
Until then, I'm taking a shot on this: https://zscases.com/products/zs-st-v1?variant=39984914301123
They have a horizontal case that is similar to the T1 as well.
Basically a vertical T1 and it can be bought with a 4.0 riser. Has front panel USB and USBC. Only drawback is the HDMI 2.0/DP 1.2 extensions, but I'll just use one of these.
It's just a regular slot cover:
I used screws to fasten it to the horizontal bracket, as well as the GPU, as opposed to installing the the retaining plate which comes with the T1. Notice the two holes underneath my GPU which is where the retaining plate would be fastened to. Also notice the two upside down screws underneath the GPU, one to fasten the GPU the other to fasten the slot cover.