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CrystalDiskMark?
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92 reviews of this app found across Reddit:
>Nach dem Drücken des Start-Tasters braucht das Betriebssystem ziemlich lange um bereit zu sein und nach Eingabe des Passwortes braucht der etwa 5 Minuten, bis ich einen Ordner öffnen kann
Hast du mal deine Festplatte gebenchmarkt mit z.B. CrystalDiskMark? Eventuell ist deine Festplatte einfach defekt und schafft nicht die nötige Leistung
An SSD won't make your computer lightning fast at everything, but it should be a hell of a lot better than an HDD. Boot times often aren't a good indicator, as often times the boot process may be taken up by BIOS initialization and the motherboard.
Download Crystal Disk Mark and run it and send a screenshot of your results and we can see if the SSD is bad. I have an old PNY XLR8 SSD that for some reason has fine read speeds but has very bad write speeds (4Mbps???) likely a defect.
May or may not be related by I had an issue with my motherboard where my SSD performance was extremely poor until I installed SATA drivers for my motherboard from the vendors site.
I would also recommend you download a disk benchmark program like CrystalDiskMark and run some tests to verify your SSD is performing as expected based off the manufactures specifications. Keep in mind that real-world performance is usually lower but an SSD should be significantly faster than any HDD.
Edit, added benchmarks for my drives for comparison. The SDD is a Samsung 850 PRO and my HDD is a Western Digital WD4004FZWX
Probably a sign of a bad drive or corrupted windows installation. Before you go crazy buy a new drive and or reinstall windows download this and run it to see how your drives perform (idk you have the game on an SSD or an HDD) and share the write and read speeds of that drive (also the type).
Like the top comment says. They're both 2 different names for exactly the same thing. With an SSD external you can expect to get about 470 - 510 mb/s read/write. That speed can be maintained by your USB 3 ports.
Simple answer, yes, your ports are capable of running an external SSD as advertised.
If you're still unsure, see if you can get your hands on I've for a few minutes from a friend or colleague, plug it in and run a speed test like this https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Install the mobile version of crystal disk mark https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ and check the Smart data if it gives warnings as that sounds like the storage drive might have a issue...
Another issue might be the thermals , do you have any program to monitor the temperatures ?
What firmware revision does the BG4 have? There is a Dell.com tool to update these drives if they have the buggy firmware, but you have to pull the drive out of the Surface to run the firmware tool IIRC.
What SSD model was the factory drive? What benchmarking tool is being used? https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ is probably the one you want.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ Run this and see what your read and write speeds are. If they are around 4,000+, this is much faster than NVME Gen 3.
Use this instead.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Total host read/write just tells you how much that particular drive has written or read so far. It's not an indicator of speed. Also, this feature is exclusive to SSD, HDD don't have it.
You do realize that the 970 EVO scored higher in all categories when compared to your previous SSD? Does it feel like the system is performing worse overall?
Have you done a benchmark with a different benchmarking software, such as CrystalDiskMark?
No idea. The controller in all the reviews is listed as SMI SM2262EN which this one is listed as having. Since you already have the drive installed you could run CrystalDiskMark and post your readings. I'd run it on mine, but I haven't won the zen3 lotto yet.
Shucking drives is an age old proposition. For some reason the external drives have drives that cost less than raw drives.
I wouldn't take it apart just to see what's inside. Just run HD Tune or Crystal Disk Mark.
Should reach easily 60 FPS in Doom Eternal, here an example with a weaker CPU. The hard drive could be problematic, you could test it with CrystalDiskMark and share your results.
But I still think there may be something messing up with windows, what's the process responsible for the 100% cpu usage?
The quick check is to get into your BIOS (I believe for that system it is the F1 key on boot), and then while in BIOS find the 'Reset to Factory' or 'Reset Settings' option.
If you continue to have issues, you can try taking off the back of the laptop (unplug your ac adapter first), removing the CMOS battery, removing the main battery, and flushing out residual power by holding the power button for ~60s. Then connect everything again and boot.
Separately, you can check your memory with a MemTest, and your HDD health with CrystalDisk.
Look up the data rate of your Laptop's port and of the USB hub (manual / tech specs online). Then look up the RW-rate of the HDD type and multiply by two. Then compare.
This should give you a good estimate, although real world speeds are almost always lover and also depend on the strucutre of the data beeing read / written (1 large file vs. many tiny files etc.)
This might be helpful in determining effective RW rates on the HDDs once you have them.
It could be a lot of things, If it's freezing and not powering off I'd rule out overheating.
You can open task manager monitor the performance to see if anything is obviously freaking out.
alt+ctl+del>more details>performance tab
Try this and see if you can rule out the HDD.
- Get a large file (1GB+) and copy it to the desktop.
- Test HDD Speed using CrystalDiskMark
Oh, not sure about best buy but amazon has had problems with a supplier giving them fake Evo microsd.
If you can plug the microSD into an adapter to your pc and run this test or if it is still plugged in to your phone any highly rated app meant to check disk read/write speeds and post the results.
When your computer is slow, does task manager show that any component is constantly being used 100% (in the performance tab)? Or do the drives have a flat line at a percentage other than 0?
You can also try to do a disk speed test when your pc is running normally and when it's running slow. If there is a significant difference in speed, then it's indeed likely a problem with your drive(s). If there is no difference, then the chances it's a problem with your drive(s) are smaller. The only tool I've ever used is CrystalDiskMark, but any other tool should be fine as well. CrystalDiskMark can be found here: https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Have you also tried to run a malware scan? Just to make sure that's not the cause of the issue.
If the above things do not give results that could show the cause of the issue, you can try to run a RAM check. Let it run for at least 3 tests, as the test is not guaranteed to find all problems. You can start it by typing in "mdsched" in the start menu. You'll have to reboot and cannot use your pc for other things while it's checking, and it can take a long time, so if possible, I'd suggest letting it run overnight.
Could be. But I can't imagine 0.6MB/s constitutes 95% disk usage, so either something else is accessing the hard drive as well, or that drive has aged terribly and/or might have some read/write problems causing retries and errors (and thus resulting in the update taking as ridiculously long as it does)...
What does CrystalDiskMark tell you about the drive's health?
I think the windows installation somehow managed to hang itself by 100%, after you have backup all and have done a successful re-install of the windows, run also Smart check for the storage drives while at it (https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/) just in case its not hardware issue...
Try putting the troublesome disks on another machine (ideally not another Dell R730) and run a disk benchmark such as https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
If the disks show signs of failure, then you need to replace those disks. Obviously, if they work normally, then you know exactly what to replace (i.e. take that R730 and give it a kick into the garbage can).
Try doing a write speed check on your drive with Crystaldiskmark (Windows) or Blackmagic Disk speed tester (OSX).
For regular ProRes 422 UHD, the write speeds you need are:
- 24/25p ~480mbps (60MB/s)
- 30p ~590mbps (74MB/s)
- 50p ~980mbps (113MB/s)
- 60p ~1180mbps (150MB/s)
> Also, could you please tell, can i really use s-gamut or 2020 color spaces that my camera has if OBS seems to have only 709 and 601?
Depends what the capture card supports. I don't think the Camlink supports anything other than 709 or 601, so that's what you'll need to set your camera to output.
I see a lot of people say get more ram , but the games haven't changed only the performance got worse.
Are the games installed on the SSD or the HDD?
There's a small chance that the HDD degraded over time and became slower. (HDD lag)
open task manager and take a look at disk usage
Check with CrystalDiskMark how fast the HDD really is.
Compare it to the provided speeds the manufacturer listed. A small bit below that is fine.
Defrag the HDD, make sure it hase some free space.
Fragmentation does matter for SSDs, albeit a lot less than it matters for HDDs. For instance, any SSD benchmark will report a sequential read speed (fast) and a random read speed (not quite as fast). There is still CPU/controller overhead associated with reading fragmented files, even if there is no longer any physical read head motion.
As for wear leveling, yes it is "a thing," and it's one of the reasons that regular people don't typically need to worry about their SSDs burning out. Of course, modern flash storage is robust enough that you'd have to abuse your drive pretty hard to start killing blocks, even without the wear leveling, but that's no reason to pretend it doesn't exist. If it's so easy to extend the life of your drive, why wouldn't you?
There is quite many possible causes ... the corrupted files does concern a bit , download the crystal diskmark https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ and ckeck does the s.m.a.r.t report anything and/or does the diskmark give you green status for the drive(s) in the system..
It could also be windows update issue as its about regular that every month some update causes issues on some systems...
As you rewired the gpu and it worked somewhat, you should check with msi afterburner by underclocking the 1080 so you could test if there is a powerdraw issue with psu, just incase.
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Maybe slow ssd speed.
You could check ssd speed with this.
check the hdd S.M.A.R.T state with https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ , it will give clear marks if there is health issue with the drive...
are the freeze / loops while you are playing ?
Install this https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ and check the result, if it is below 200 MB/s you can confirm its HDD, otherwise, it's an SSD.
Kein Experte, aber miss doch mal mit crystaldiskmark die Platte und den USB Stick. Geschwindigkeiten für squentielles und random schreiben kann durchaus große Unterschiede aufweisen.
Dann schau auch mal die SMART Werte der Platte an, z.b. mit hwinfo
Intressant ist, das laut Taskmanager die SSD der Flaschenhals ist. Dazu extrem langsame Geschwindigkeit, die ich bei einem alten USB 2 Stick noch glauben könnte, aber bei einer SSD ..? Da stimmt irgendwas nicht (soweit warst du auch schon, denk ich).
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What is the SSD brand ?
Better check the SSD speed with this.
>and when I cap my fps (even at 60) it makes the performance worse.
Using the in-game FPS cap option yes? Other methods cause issue in BOCW for me, in-game cap works ok.
>could something with the SSD be corrupted that would cause this?
On the hardware side, I've seen sata cables go bad fairly often. Though apart from just dying I haven't seen SSD issues like that (not that they don't happen though).
You can test your SSD speeds with this tool https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ (grab the standard edition)
I looked at your specs again, do you have 4 sticks or 2? If you have the time to troubleshoot, I'd pull 2 out and test the combinations 2 at a time (with CoD) to see if any have issue. Make sure they're in the right slots for dual channel.
You don't always crash or bsod because of memory issues. At the very least reseat the ram (pull it out, put it back in) that might be all it is, a swift bump is all it can take to cause problems.
Do you remember when playing console games it show's that saving game icon flashing and the warning not to power off your console whilst it's saving?
I would load up crystaldiskmark and check the state of the drive.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
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I'd probably uninstall the Apex and reinstall to see if you can fix the problem. I wouldn't touch chkdsk as it's not a realiable application. Also is the drive MBR or GPT, no reason to use MBR anymore unless you're looking to run windows XP on it.
https://www.howtogeek.com/193669/whats-the-difference-between-gpt-and-mbr-when-partitioning-a-drive/
Okay, I recommend testing it with a benchmark like CrystalDiskMark to see if the SSD's performance is normal. Also verify your CPU's performance and temperature are normal. Does the CPU boost to its rated Turbo speed? Is it running well below a 100 C?
Give Crystal disk mark a go. It should be able to just ask for direct access to the drive.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
The RAM cached note is most likely related to the operating system, if you've got extra ram available and tell the computer to write and then immediately read a file, it has no reason to make it take the long route. Does Userbenchmark have a separate program, or does it run the benchmarks inside the browser?
Please check your SSD performance again with CrystalDiskMark. Make sure that nothing else is accessing the SSD while doing the benchmark (i.e. no downloads or Windows Updates running in the background).
By the way, you can take screenshots by searching for the "Snipping Tool" in Windows Start Menu.
// Tom
I'm assuming your SSD is the primary drive - are you downloading to the SSD or the HDD?
Can you run for this for the HDD? https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Just want to be sure about something - might be exploratory in nature.
With a USB 3 pendrive will be probably better for reading. (there'snt much improvement on writing). Will make a significant improving boot speed and opening allocations.
If your are on linux use gnome-disk-utility, it has a benchmark tool.
On windows use CrystalDiskMark
I am trying to visualize what the behaviour looks like to provide more feedback. Currently stumped.
Can you run this and post a screenshot of the results? https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Bajate https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Los 2 e El AZUL EL INFO salud
Y el VERDE mark escritura y lectura
Capaz se te daño uno de los 2 discos y ese disco te estara dando problemas
The XPG GAMMIX S50 Lite came out fairly recently, so the specs advertised should be what you get. I don't think they have made any revisions yet, but you can always test with CrystalDiskInfo and CrystalDiskMark when you get it.
It is essentially ADATA's budget PCIe Gen4 drive that is supposed to compete with and should outperform PCIe Gen3 drives. You can check out u/NewMaxx's post on it and the review he linked.
Keep in mind that since it is a PCIe 4.0 drive, so you will need a CPU/mobo that can use it.
Is it worth it? Hard to say. It's definitely prices competetively. Though, most people probably wouldn't even be able to tell the difference between a SATA SSD and a PCIe Gen4 NVMe drive doing their day-to-day computer tasks. I rock a WD SN750 on my b550 system and I see no reason to upgrade to a PCIe Gen4 drive.
Did you not find the nvme speeds alone to be sufficient?
I would worry that introducing another software step (spanning in win 10) wouldn't net any speed benefits at the cost of resource overhead.
At the end of the day, Adobe's optimization could use a lot of improvement when it comes to handling footage and files. Even on overspecced machines it can feel sluggish and choppy, in a way that other NLEs don't. Especially depending on the footage.
You could try using something like this for testing:
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
When you have those numbers, you can add up the data rate of your footage and do some napkin math to see if your drives are the bottleneck. I doubt it - modern NVME drives are
That does sound kind of strange. Kind of seems like a slow read problem. Run this with both USB sticks and post results.
Same behaviour when trying playback with different video player? Try with VLC if you don't have another preference.
Crystaldiskinfo and crystldiskmark are two good tools for testing the performance and health info of a drive. I'd start there to make sure the drives are okay.
Also, is the PC running Windows 10?
I'm going to take a stab in the dark here....
The 5tb Barracuda is a SMR drive
https://www.seagate.com/ca/en/internal-hard-drives/cmr-smr-list/
When an SMR drives writes to the disk some data overlaps other data so it has to rewrite part of the existing data. Also with these SMR drives after Windows shows that the disk operation is over you can still hear the drive reorganizing data on the drive.
I have a five 8tb SMR drives in my PC but I only use them to store my media files...The read performance is good, but the write performance is horrible. I don't really care about the write performance just that the data is reliably written and read. SMR are also great for use as archival or backup drives because the per TB cost is so cheap.
SMR drives are the worst possible choice for a boot drive..
If you want to see what the true read write performance is turn the computer on and let it sit idle for 30 minutes or however long it takes for the hard drive to stop thrashing, then do a test with Crystal Disk Mark
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
You really should use an NVME or SSD as your boot drive snd be careful not to buy a cheap SSD, as a lot of those are cheap because they don't have a DRAM cache.
Ignore user benchmark. Get crystal disk mark instead and compare your results to manufacturer stated performance and reviews. I doubt you have any problems judging by the read/write speed results you have so far. https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
I would try running a health or read/write test on the NVMe, it may mean pulling it out and testing it with another system. I like Crystal Disk Mark, its simple and free. If you get speeds like 1000 MB/s or slower on the Sequential test (top one), you could have a failing NVMe.
Crystal Disk Mark DL:
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Edit: Added link to Crystal Disk Mark.
Better ask Shizuku. She'll give it to you straight.
Generally, SSDs (preferably M.2) for system drives and programs which you want to be very responsive (e.g. your webbrowser, steam itself, heavy games with long loading times, in order to shorten these times), whereas HDDs are for mass storage of media (music, videos, emulator roms, disk images) and most games can be installed on them without perceptible performance degradation
Make sure the drive is not write-protected.
Temporarily disable your anti-virus program and try again.
Try to re-install Steam. PS: Using this method will NOT delete your games.
Test your drive for issues and replace it if errors show: https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Your game is appearing as uninstalled, it is not actually uninstalled, all the game files still exist on your computer.
The 2 most common causes to this issue, in order, is as follows:
1: Your Steam games are located on an external drive.
2: You have a failing/dying drive. You can check the health of your drive using this and this.
HWiNFO for hardware details, or CrystalDiskInfo specifically for drives. For general read/write test I like CrystalDiskMark
HWiNFO for hardware details, or CrystalDiskInfo specifically for drives. For general read/write test I like CrystalDiskMark
Try a better/more common tool like Crystal Disk Mark, see what you get.
The X1C7 has a PCIe 3.0 4x slot for that drive, so it should be able to get sequential speeds up to 3500MB/s. Not sure what that WD750 is up to though (I'll have a look while you do that benchmark).
EDIT: WD claims 3400/3100MB/s, so you should see similar numbers for sequential speeds.
Benchmark your drive with this tool:
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
A decent SATA SSD should get you 500MB/s read.
NAND SSDs tend to be a lot slower than DRAM ones, although it could be a factor with the latency part, it wouldn't be that bad.. I would try a different SATA cable & see what's writing to the SSD beforehand, check the SMART status of the SSD using it's manufacture's software and maybe do some write/read stress test with an outside tool like CrystalDiskMark, if you think the test results look normal then you're all set and maybe task manger is just bugging out.
> Is there anyway to test it to see how fast its actually going?
Get a storage device that supports USB 3.1 Gen 2 or USB 3.2 Gen 2x1 at the very least (with very fast storage, maybe an SSD with 1 GB/sec speeds or more?) then use something like CrystalDiskMark to test it out. If you get sequential speeds of at least 600 MB/sec^(†) (provided your SSD supports that speed), it works.
^(†) Well, I've based it off 5 Gbit/sec for USB 3.0/3.1 Gen 1/3.2 Gen 1x1, disregarding overhead.
For the speed impact, just test it yourself, I am sure you don't need step by step instruction but if you do let me know :)
0- in VeraCrypt, you can go to Tools>Benchmark and get result (screenshot it to share it here)
1- Then download https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
run it, and take a screenshot if you wanna share it here.
2- Encrypt your drive using VeraCrypt and run Crystaldiskmark again (share if you care)
3- is it too slow for you? Then go for windows bitlocker/driver encryption (if you are on windows ) and test it again to see the difference
4- share your result here to help others: Having said that, you probably just want an answer, but I forgot and I think to some level it is subjective and based on your needs, for me I prefer security over performance , but as far as I remember, I didn't mind it, why? I don't remember, but I think it was not that much, and I remember reading that in many places that the impact on new hardware is minimum. don't quote me though.
That is what got my attention too. Upload/download are terms that are used for network speed, not storage. The OP should do SSD speed test https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
and share the results so we know better what the situation is.
>So you didn't install it yourself?
>
>Well first off check what type of storage you got if it a HDD or an SSD using the instructions on this link.
>
>After you verified what kind type of storage you have then you can check the write speed of your SSD CrystalDiskMark
Yes, I still have the label on and I also use my M.2 drive for OS. I read a GN article a few years ago about MSI's heatsinks actually heating up the drive, but I imagine they have improved on that design since then. If you're curious try testing it out for yourself by running the drive without the heatsink. You can use CrystalDiskMark to benchmark your drive speeds, which will also simulate the drive under heavy load so it's good for benchmarking worst-case temps as well.
As far as normal temps for M.2 drives go, it depends on the drive itself. I know that NVMe drives run hotter than SSDs. Personally I think less than 60°C is ideal, but 70° C won't negatively impact the performance or drive lifespan as far as I know. As long as you're not hitting 85°-90° C then you're fine.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
I know it has been a month and maybe you already know how to do disk tests, but in case you don't, here you go.
Use something like CrystalDiskMark to benchmark the new drive against the 850, if the performance difference is significant* then definitely explore moving over to that as a boot/game drive.
*significant = worth migrating your OS install and all the pain that comes with that
Install CrystalDiskMark if you don't have it already, to see if the drive is operating correctly. Run the test after you've installed it and post the results here.
Please post results using https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
For both SATA and NVME drives.
If you have a USB adapter then check the SSD connected in SATA via USB also. Should help in nailing down the problem.
You can use CrystalDiskInfo to check what the model of the drive is in the enclosure.
You can also use CrystalDiskMark to do a benchmark on it.
There's several other benchmark tools listed here too:
https://www.raymond.cc/blog/measure-actual-hard-disk-perfomance-under-windows/
Do you have a second drive in the laptop for storage, or just the NVMe SSD? Does the NVMe perform as expected in, e.g., CrystalDiskMark? Periodic hangs like that are often a result of excessive storage access times, if there's a mechanical drive in there, could be flaking out on you, or there could be a problem with the SSD.
When did I ever mention having a titan? Moreover, titans are made for data science, AI research, content creation and general GPU development. Not for gaming. Once again you demonstrate that even in your attempted hyperbole, you don't really know what you're talking about.
ROE is 15 - 20GB on disk, which is really tiny compared to the majority of games nowdays. You should use crystaldiskmark ( https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ ) to benchmark your storage drives, cause something with your setup is super funky.
Is your C: drive an SSD or HDD?
It might be interesting to see what Files are being accessed by PID 4 (System) in the Resource Monitor.
Have you checked the S.M.A.R.T. stats of your drive lately? You can use CrystalDiskInfo or similar tool. Maybe run CrystalDiskMark to benchmark your disk's performance.
Run Crystal Disk Info to check on health.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/
I would also run Crystal Disk Mark and/or ATTO Disk Benchmark to see if any errors pop up.
There are many speed different speed metrics like 4k random write vs sequential write. Or 1MB sequential tests with 1Mb chunks with 8 queues. https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark
Good discussion here https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/usb-too-slow-teslacam.171689/
SSDs have better controllers and gen have a better speed rating across the board especially in random writes/reads making them better suited to running an OS.
Some Usb3 flash drives have ssd controllers making them very close to SSDs, and regardless usb3 drives generally have a better controller than usb2 drives to handle the increased bandwidth.
For the Tesla cam we have 4 separate 720p video streams requiring like 2MB/s of 4 sequential write queues. Most USB 3 stick drives should be able to handle this and microSD cards were designed for this type of sequential write.
The Samsung microSd endurance cards and a mini reader may be the best bet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016W4M5BE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jsanEb71V5DHX
It appears that something in V10 caused the USB speed warnings to start popping up when there prob should not be an issue.
Wish the new cars had USB 3 ports instead of the usb2.
Kingston is a good name so that mostly blows the el-cheapo argument out (granted, any brand can have their cheaper offerings). But a model would still be good, that way I can check reviews and stat sheets.
Try Crystal Disk Mark and see what you get, as windows' way of logging speeds has never been the most consistent.
Get crystal diskmark and see if it’s indeed slower
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
A game will load from disk into RAM (loading screens) then only operate on RAM (because it’s faster than pulling data from disk) as much as it can. unless the game is terribly optimized, or you have woefully low RAM it shouldn’t have to load (or save) more from disk during playtime.
The low FPS during play sounds like it could be a paging issue, where the PC actually uses the ssd as fake RAM.
Make sure your PC has enough ram (Ctrl shift esc for task manager and check memory load during play) and make sure it’s not being paged to disk
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ssd-performance-tweak,2911-4.html
Get faster disks. If you want to see what your drives are doing on a windows PC, grab a benchmark tool like CrystalDiskMark.
From my WD Black 2TB SATA HDD, I can read 190MB/s sequential. You may get close to this with large files if nothing else is choking your transfer. For random reads of 4K files, it reads at .7MB/s. It's just the way drive access works.
Samsung SATA SSD 870 Evo : Sequential = 440MB/s+, 4K = ~15MB/s.
Samsung NVME M.2 SSD 970 Evo : Seq = 2500MB/s+, 4K = 46.5MB/s.
Writes will be slower. RAID can make up for some of it, but small files are still a lot of work for the system to find and keep track.
Without details about the motherboard specifications or machine specs the manual is all we have to go by. And they are pretty generic as you can customize machines when you order them. With the service tag we can get the full specifications of the machine you are using to see the configuration. Without the detailed specs we are guessing about the ports available.
On pages 16 and 17 In the manual it states:
You have one optional m.2 for intel optane memory, one m.2 that may be occupied by a wifi/bluetooth card and one m.2 for sata/pcie ssd.
Intel Optane memory (optional) NOTE: Intel Optane memory is supported on computers that meet the following requirements:
- 7th Generation or higher Intel Core i3/i5/i7 processor
- Windows 10 64-bit version or higher (Anniversary Update)
- Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver version 15.9 or higherTable 7.
Intel Optane memory specifications Interface PCIe 3x2, NVMe 1.1 ConnectorM.2 Card slot (2280)Configurations supported
Ports and connectors Internal:M.2 slot
One M.2 slot for the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth combo card
One M.2 slot for solid-state drive (SATA/PCIe 3x4 NVMe)
If you have the ssd in the m.2 for the sata/pcie then there really isn't anything you can do to increase the speed of the connection.
Make sure you are booting to the new drive, turn off the machine, unplug the sata connection off the old drive, and boot the machine to the new drive. You can test the speed of the drive with a program like this https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Fake SD cards have been a problem on Amazon for years. I remember back in my 3DS days I actually got a fake 16GB SD card from Amazon, from a "shipped and sold" by Amazon listing, that was actually a 2GB card with a hacked memory controller.
I also ran into issues on eBay as well, despite PayPal's generous return policy and only buying from highly rated sellers. Now I test every card I buy, even from BestBuy, because at one point even their retail stores got a contaminated shipment.
Nowadays I recommend everyone verify their speeds with CrystalDeskMark and verify their storage with H2testw. After getting scammed 4 times now, I just assume every SD card lies to me unless I confirm otherwise. I was just extra paranoid in this case because I was dealing with my Nintendo Switch games/saves, which I value a lot.
Run crystal disk info to get info on the drive. Can tell you if it's failing. Crystal disk mark can test the speed. Sequential tests should be over 100 MB/s.
You can try testing the sequential transfer speed with CrystalDiskMark.
Click the Seq Q32T1 button, it should give you performance near the advertised speed of the stick.
According to Samsung's website, your drive is performing as normal. In fact, it's slightly above factory speeds, which is expected with Samsung's driver. That's also faster than what UserBenchmark recorded (if you compare the results for sequential reads and writes.)
>"For a 500 MB/s SSD you did 60x500= 30000MB= 30GB but for an NVME which is much faster you would do 2373x60= 142380MB= 142GB free space needed. Is that why this is not working?"
Yes, that's partially why it won't finish the test on UserBenchmark (because of the amount of free space you'd need), but then UserBenchmark tests are demanding more requirements to be completed. However, with so many unique system configurations, software running in the background and so on, no test is going to be completely accurate. If you just wanted to benchmark the speed capabilities of your drive, Samsung Magician is already able to do that. You can also rely on the use of other software out there, such as CrystalDiskMark.
>Video Scheduler Internal Error
That is usually a GPU problem. If you have another GPU, put that in and see if the error persists. If you do not have another try older (or newer) drivers for your current one.
If you want to test your HDD anyway then CrystalDisk Mark will give you a good count of any problems.
Check your SMART data. Likely a failing HDD and Windows is stuck trying to write/read bad sectors.
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Crystal Disk Mark shows stats. https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
This is not a not a normal result though - I've seen downloads on Steam max out the network connection, at least for short spikes. If you really want to get a reliable result for the disk, use CrystalDiskMark (https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/) and report the results.
Just DL it, and run it, just like you would any other program.
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
It'll tell you if your disk is performing as it should be.
Run CDM and send the output so we can see drive health https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
Go to command prompt and run:
Chkdsk C: /r
That will scan for bad sectors and repair any found issues. This can take up to an hour or 2
Disk management's "healthy" doesn't mean anything with a non-RAID disk. It only shows "unhealthy" if your RAID is broken.
You can give it a quick look with CrystalDiskInfo if you USB bridge supports SMART. Beyond that you'll have to test it with a manufacturers specific drive fitness test or look for weak sectors with Hard Disk Sentinel.
I would replace the Motherboard, CPU and RAM since you cannot upgrade one of those without changing the other two.
1060 is still reasonably good and your power supply is going to be sufficient for whatever you put in within reason. I would guess that your GPU is probably underutilised in you current setup
Assuming you are booting from the SSD and putting your main games on that drive you should be good but I would look at running Crystal Disk Mark on those drives to see what sort of speed you are really getting out of them. A 9 year old disk is probably going to be really slow and you are not going to want to use it for much apart from storing media files or old games, I basically never throw out hard disks until they fail I have like 4 in my current machine
Use um programa chamado CrystalDiskInfo, que reporta a saúde do HD entre outras informações.
Faça teste de leitura e escrita também.
I think /u/HelloDeebs is correct, it sounds like your hard drive (C:) is failing. A slow hard drive will slow down your entire system.
What you need to do is start backing up anything important on your C: drive and start pricing SSDs. Make some space on your 2 TB drive and start moving things over.
CrystalDiskMark can be used to test the speed of your hard drive. You can compare results against User Benchmarks here
CrystalDiskInfo can be used to see if your drive is throwing any SMART errors.
If you're on a budget a 120GB SSD is large enough for windows and a few games by it's self. I just picked up a cheap HP SSD @ Office Depot for 20 bucks.
If you can spend a little more money, I'd look at a 500GB-1TB Samsung Evo or Crucial MX500.
If you upgrade to a SSD it will feel like you have a whole new computer.
I would try something that does a little more benchmarking before making a decision. Namely, I would be interested in read/write speeds and seek latency, stuff like that. There's a separate program called CrystalDiskMark you can try: https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/
There's also this trial version of Passmark's Performance Test you can try: https://www.passmark.com/products/pt.htm
Check storage drive health/speed. CrystalDiskMark for checking the speed. CrystalDiskInfo for checking the health.
If you’d like to test the speeds, google crystaldiskmark not the info one but the benchmark one. Here’s a link to it https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskmark/ The standard edition is fine. And from there you want to install the program and then click on All and the test should begin. After the test report back and tell us what scores you get.
HDD speeds are in normal range. But your SSD write speeds are somewhat slow, read is also normal. Try to have PC idle for few minutes before you run the test, also i guess if your ssd is maxed out with data write should be somewhat slower.
Try bench marking your SSD with Crystal Disk Mark. You can also check the health of your SSD with Crystal Disk Info
It's probably just that your perception has changed now that you're used to an SSD-equipped desktop. When everything was on a mechanical drive, the difference between 5.4k and 7.2k RPM drives could be pretty pronounced. As a result, you 'know' that 7.2k RPM is fast enough, but now you're used to SSD speeds, so even if there's nothing wrong, the difference in performance is above the 'just noticeable difference' threshold, so the mechanical drive seems slow.
There could still be something wrong - maybe try running CrystalDiskMark to get a quantitative picture of the drive's performance. Userbenchmark can be handy for pointing out glaring issues, but in my experience the user-submitted results upon which the comparisons are based are often so far out of the expected ranges for the hardware that I don't really have any faith in it as an actual benchmarking tool.
Check the status of your HDDs using this. It will tell you the health of them. If any of them say caution, or anything other than good, start backing up your data ASAP.
To test your RAM, use memtest to see if your RAM may be in bad health.
Another item to see if your OS has issues, is open a command prompt using admin privileges and run sfc /scannow. That should detect any issues and fix them.