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L-out = line out, aka headphone jack.
My guess is that it's a normal 3 pole jack and will only do audio out.
Every desktop I've seen is like that, only ever seen laptops and phones have 4 pole jacks that can do mic + audio out so you will probably need a splitter to do Line out and mic in.
One of those female to dual male ones like this https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-KOOPAO-Microphone-Earphones/dp/B084V3TRTV
or get a cheap usb sound card.
OK so first things first:
- Unplug / remove all drives you are not trying to install the OS on
- Check the bios is up to date and you are using UEFI boot
- Check your bootable USB was setup for UEFI boot I normally use Rufus
That is one way to find your driver's but that can often be unreliable, so we are going to do it the more reliable way.
Let's go to this website first, https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/geforce-experience/ and download that program.
That program is geforce experience, this is the best way to manage your gpu drivers. Once you download that go through the setup. Once it's up and running we should go to the driver's tab.
Then in almost the top right, there should be a check for updates button, we are going to push that. Once it's done checking we might see a couple of buttons, one that says "express installation" and one that says "custom installation" we will push express installation.
If that button doesn't come up no need to worry, that just means your driver's are up to date. Once the driver's update test it again and see if it keeps doing it and let me know what happens.
The port on the graphics card that looks kind of like an HDMI with only one slanted side is a DisplayPort output, I would recommend you use that.
If your monitor does not support DisplayPort input, I would buy an adapter (HDMI to DisplayPort). Something like this should work.
The caveat here is that you may not be able to support higher refresh rates (at or above 120hz) depending on your display resolution and which type of HDMI cable you use. Here is a short read on that.
THE BEST 1440p monitor period.
LG Ultragear 27-inch, Nano IPS -True 1 ms, 144 Hz, G-Sync Compatible, HDR 10, QHD Monitor, HDMI x 2,DP, Height Adjust & Pivot Stand - 27GL850 (Black) - https://www.amazon.in/LG-Ultragear-27-inch-Compatible-Monitor/dp/B07TD94TQF
The audio panel connector and its motherboard header have a different pin missing.
They look like this. Second picture shows the arrangement.
I'd suggest installing HWiNFO and turning on the logging functionality to try and capture what might be causing the freezes.
Honestly I'm surprised you've spent so much time trying to fix it - I usually just format and reinstall Windows from scratch now that it's so quick to do it, especially if all your games are on a second SSD.
I had similar issues on my laptop with Windows 11 and the rollback was a nightmare, so I just formatted and installed Win11 from scratch and it's flawless (Desktop is still on Win10)
Probably normal, my guess is due to it being a prebuilt machine the air-flow isn't all that great in that case. When you mention its only with steam games, this is just coincidence, what is happening is the games are intensive and you're using a lot of resources which in-turn is creating a significant amount of heat. You will be able to feel the heat if you put your hand just behind the case at the exhaust.
You can monitor your temps with utilities such as HWINFO, but in order to stop the noise you will need to have your fans and cooler upgraded (you will need to check they are compatible with your case and mainboard), I recommend Noctua fans and a Noctua cooler.
If you're accustomed to PC building then you could do it yourself, alternatively have a reputable local tech company/PC store or a technically minded family or friend do it for you.
That is interesting.
- Check all your cable connections, disconnect and reconnect them and see if it goes away.
- If you've done the above, drop down to one monitor and see if the issue still persists.
- Still in single monitor configuration, try the other monitor does the issue still persist.
- If you reach this far then I have bad news unfortunately.
Last resort: You could check your GPU temps against what the MAX the graphics card is supposedly capable off by looking up the specifications online, check if its getting too hot, if it isnt then its looking likely it could be GPU artifacting which means the GPU is failing. You can monitor GPU temps with a variety of software some goods apps are MSI Afterburner and HWINFO.
Like others have said DS4windows is an awesome program that emulates an Xbox 360 using a PS4 remote making it usable on PC. You can also check steams controller settings. I've been using my PS4 remote to play Death Stranding without using DS4windows.
The 'Classic Version' is the free one. What temps are you getting on your CPU on idle (not doing anything)?
It could be from dust buildup on the CPU cooler, the fan not working, or the cooler might not be making good contact with the CPU (this will require taking the cooler off, cleaning off the old thermal paste and putting new thermal paste on).
What PSU do you currently have?
Have you checked what tempuratures your getting under load for CPU, GPU and chipsets?
CPUID HWmonitor (Classic version is the free one) https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
See if anything is reading a high temperature on any of the sensors that are detected.
If they are high on idle (not doing anything) then that is most likely the issue, but you would need to leave the program open and then play a game so the CPU/GPU and everything is working and heats up. See what max temps your hitting.
As mentioned you should clean up your pc and heatsinks with compressed air. Also look up which component of your pc runs hot so we can help you better. Install HWinfo from https://www.hwinfo.com/ and monitor your temps. If anything is above 80 degrees or so we can invest further
UEFI has very specific certified hardware requirements. Chances are if it didn't come with UEFI it won't support it. Here is a reference article. It is possible but very technical. Not worth the work imo. http://superuser.com/questions/494303/is-is-possible-to-update-bios-to-uefi
100% disk usage can be an indication that the drive is dying. Is it HDD or SSD? If its HDD you can test it with HDDScan. Run the verify test,if you are unsure on the results you can post a screenshot here.
It won't offer a choice on a normal boot-up unless you are using two separate hard drives; this is where a boot manager comes into play. If you have successfully installed both of them, then going into the boot manager should give you an option to launch either one. Figure out whatever your boot manager key is, and press it when booting. Generally F10 or F12, sometimes F6, and I've seen F11 once or twice..so look up what it is for your motherboard, and see if you can boot into PrimeOS.
Here is a helpful article for setting up DualBoot with PrimeOS and Windows 10.
https://primeos.in/primeOSinstructionguide.pdf
There is just so much to go over in those pictures, I didn't really see anything that stood out except the X on the Chipset readings.
Temps look fine, clock speeds fine, although there should be a lower speed in min, which means your probably running on a high performance power profile (in the control panel) rather than balanced, so your computer is using more power than it needs to at idle times.
Drive smart status looks fine, but it looks like there is only 1 drive that has it listed, but I doubt this is an issue anyway.
So, personally, I'd start with updating drives for the Motherboard and Graphics card and see if that changes anything.
You can find the Motherboard drives if you google your motherboard model. It will be on the manufacturers page for it under Support. Download each driver for each component and install. Install the latest for your graphics card too.
CPUID HWmonitor, download the one under 'classic version', it's the free one. Use it and play a game, see if anything is reaching a high temperature. GPU/CPU, Idle tempuratures (not doing anything) don't mean much, it's when the computer is under load that counts.
Also try GPU-Z, play a game with it running and look in the sensors tab, this will show you what your Graphics Card is doing, if the clock speed is changing because your playing a game, the load on your GPU (although this can be low depending on game).
Windows 10 [claims](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-10-specifications) the OS requires only 32GB, however after a clean install you will probably find another 50GB consumed by the WindowsUpdates, 16-32GB for the paging files AND for the hibernation files. Additionally, WindowsBackup is confgured out-of-the-box to use up to 30% of the disk for backup images. In one month I would suspect a typical Windows install would consume 150-200GB. How this poor soul is running on 110GB alone boggles the mind.
Malwarebytes have a powerful adware removal utility, the free version will suffice. Give it a go, it might solve your problem https://www.malwarebytes.com/adwcleaner/
If they don’t have matching ports, you’ll need to buy an adapter. I’d reccomend going from two of the display ports so you only have to buy two adapters. Will cost you about twenty dollars. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G4BXZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_C8MJ1FEA2FMJAR59TAJX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure the fan is in tight too to reduce the chance of vibration and rubbing from that. You could add a braided cable sleeve to protect it further: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW5H57B/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had the same problem buying this made everything better. Microsoft Xbox One Wireless Adapter for Windows (Bulk Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785SFKYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7VDTPY8C00RSZ7VSFBQR
okay - found you one for $34 and it has a 7% off coupon as well so like $32 https://www.amazon.com/TRHFF-Battery-Compatible-Inspiron-Latitude/dp/B0878N93Z3/ref=pd\_lpo\_147\_t\_1/140-3630846-2817219?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_i=B0878N93Z3&pd\_rd\_r=398f43a7-72cc-48a7-af5a-79e7e69a420a&pd\_rd\_w=ifs5n&pd\_rd\_...
Power Supply 750W Fully Modular 80+ Gold Certified with ARGB Light Mode, GAMEMAX RGB-750 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQDFZM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XMAYXRYP7GADARRBCS0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I was going to get this one before it went out of stock and I wanted my pc to turn on. It’s got really nice rgb too with the proper amount of wattage for a healthy pc.
You would want something more like these. 1 adapter per cable so you don't strain the psu cables.
You need something like this, it's called a switch not a splitter
you can probably use something like this. but I haven't personally had one. https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-LinkS-Amplifier-Source-Displays/dp/B0732MD43P/ref=sr_1_omk_4?dchild=1&keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1619177771&sr=8-4
Your board might not have a place for that. I know most of mine don't. I only have one MSI board with a "JUSB5" for Type C/USB 3.1.
You could get an adapter that convert 3.0 to 3.1, however: https://www.amazon.com/Rivo-Computer-Mainboard-Expansion-Card%EF%BC%88Header-180%C2%B0%EF%BC%89/dp/B08SQ88X9S/
Hi,
The cable where you say "there is more than one" is the SATA power connector, you can use ANY of those connectors on the hard disk. A second cable you need is a SATA DATA cable which will go from your motherboard to your hard disk... It looks like this..
​
The other thing you showed is one part of a two part caddy that connects to the side of your HD with screws so you can slide in the big bays.
The mic isnt amazing, but the quality of this headset that i use for only around 30 ish is amazing. It feels great and it sounds great. I dont use the mic at all soni cant tell you of its good or not but i remeber using it once and it was alright then. It also is wired and has good bass like u wanted. headset
unplug the Ethernet cable going into it, install a switch, plug a cat 5 cable from the switch back to the WiFi extender. Use the other ports on the switch to plug in your stuff. Switches are cheap. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+switch&qid=1611962888&sr=8-4
Here are a few that are easy to build in and most people like to look at (shamelessly stolen from the people at r/buildapcsales) 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TC76671/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_tRjaGbPWSKJMW 2)https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Mid-Tower-PH-EC400ATG_BK01-Tempered-Controller/dp/B07TYR1P1G/
Sry for replying so late I was helping my friend with something AOC 27G2 27" Frameless Gaming IPS Monitor, FHD 1080P, 1ms 144Hz, NVIDIA G-SYNC Compatible + Adaptive-Sync, Height Adjustable, 3-Year Zero Dead Pixel Guarantee, Black/Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WSK5W7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7fM.Fb92TAK59
I have this monitor it’s really great Acer KA272U biipx 27” WQHD 2560 x 1440 IPS Zero-Frame Monitor with 75Hz Refresh Rate and AMD Radeon FreeSync Technology (Display Port & 2 x HDMI 1.4 Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQSBNYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Z5L.Fb3R59TFR
You can buy a connector on amazon that will allow you to put many more in
This is what I use. I would also suggest something like this it will protect the drive as well as be an adapter too
Yup that's normal. Cables are not provided with any drives except the external USB kind. Any SATA cable will do the trick.
You can also get SATA power splitters which will turn a single SATA Power connector into two or more, you will generally need to get these if you have a proprietary pre-built machine, such as those from HP, Dell, Asus, Acer etc, as they tend to only supply enough to feed a single drive and sometimes a CD/DVD which is also becoming rare now, CD/DVD is on its way out the door.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-B5196-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0086OGN9E
You might need more watts to be safe. https://www.amazon.com/APC-SYA8K8P-6400W-8000VA-Supply/dp/B0001W2Y42/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=power+supply&qid=1605730809&sr=8-1 try this
some suggestions i would make to the pcpp list is getting a 1000w powersupply. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM1000x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B015YEI7LK, would be perfect. Another suggestion is instead of getting a ryzen 9 3900X, wait for the new ryzen 5 5600x to come back in stock. If you need the pc now then just get the 9 3900x.
Just bought these for my sons new build. They’re great! Light up in the light modes, quiet and not that expensive.
ABKONCORE RGB Fans SP120, 5 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083L9MLNY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Make sure your using the fastest available usb slot (prolly 3.0) although I doubt it will make a difference. Next find and instal network driver simply by typing your processor type then drivers or network drivers. If that doesn’t work then it could be the adapter. If it is I would recommend using a hardline Ethernet which you can get for cheap on amazon. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tenda-AV1000-Gigabit-Powerline-1000Mbps/dp/B01N1JN6CV/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=57147983198&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImvva046Q4wIVBarsCh1ROgxSEAAYAiAAEgKZyfD_BwE&hvadid=274680233988&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9031174&hvn...
Why not simply get another Portal Router?
https://www.amazon.com/Portal-Mesh-Wi-Fi-Router-high-performance/dp/B01JQROZZS
There are some MSI monitors for $150-$200 that are pretty good for the price. You won't be able to find a new monitor for less than $150 that doesn't suck ass.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR7KTG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TymhFbBBS21FV
so i checked out the headphones (these right? https://www.amazon.com/AKG-Cancelling-Headphones-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B0721KKLB4 ) and they look to have trrs adapters (three bands on the 3.5mm connector). try using a set of headphones with just two bands and see if you get sound. trrs is used more so in portable devices, like mobile phones and personal recorders. (one band is an L channel, one is the R, and the third section is a mic). if you need to know what they look like, just google trs/trrs.
Your Motherboard is called the Dell XPS 8700 Motherboard DZ87M01 KWVT8 OKWVT8. Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Genuine-Desktop-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B00WS1DQZA The problem sounds like maybe one of your Motherboard capacitor might have fried out or your motherboard is completely dead, sadly the only way to fix a motherboard is to buy a new one. Guessing that it is a DDR3 Board its probably pretty old right?
It kind of sounds like the motherboard is losing its 5 volt regulation circuit, or the power supply has got a bad 5 volt bus.
Although the data connections are separate, some peripherals have to have power for the data connection to function.
What we suggest to our clients, is the purchase a simple USB voltage and current testing device.
He will help you verify that the USB ports on the computer are putting out 5 volts like they're supposed to, and also indicate anything that is dragging that voltage down as a peripheral.
If the BIOS has been updated, and the CMOS has been cleared, then there's more than likely something wrong with the RAM itself.
Just some observations from us working with our clients over the last few years.
We love Corsair products, but there's one exception and that's RAM. We have more trouble with the RAM they provide than any other brand. Part of this is because the actual DIMM chips aren't consistent, but they never changed the part numbers.
So you think you're buying matching numbers, when technically it's two different types of RAM that you're sticking into your computer.
Another thing that is worth noting, that can be an issue, is 3000MHz sticks. They are timed for special application CPUs, and can be problematic. Same goes for 2933MHz. 3200MHz will often work fine in place of 2666MHz. And sometimes this is more a memory controller built into the CPU, then a motherboard thing.
With the same processor, on a similar motherboards, we've had no problem installing these modules in the recent past.
And on finicky systems requiring 2666, we've had our clients purchased these.
G.Skill 32GB DDR4 Aegis 2666MHz PC4-21300 CL19 Dual Channel Memory Kit (2x16GB)
Regardless, at this point you've done your due diligence and it's just not accepting the RAM.
Yes, that's one of the shortcomings of the HP 27ea. It wasn't truly designed for multiple display use, but connection to a computer and a laptop simultaneously was the concept. That's why it still has a VGA connection.
Part of what you're experiencing, and some graphics cards do it and some don't, is Nvidia's HDMI support channel. A few years back, and they got their way with the industry during the 30 series launch, they would have dropped HDMI support altogether in lieu of supplying a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter. But the pushback was pretty heavy, and the only thing they've done that with, outside of workstation cards, was one founder's edition card.
The reason why you don't see multiple HDMI outs on graphics cards, is that it really sucks when it comes to graphics bandwidth. It doesn't play fair. DisplayPorts on the other hand, are the same shared bandwidth highway. That's why there's so many of those ports on the graphics card.
We're not saying that this will fix your problem, but it has fixed our clients problems that have been extremely similar over the years. They simply purchased the cable, not an adapter, that does the proper communications from the DP on the graphics card that the HDMI on the monitor. Most of the time, people say that they've actually got better display quality coming off of DP to an HDMI device.
DisplayPort to HDMI 6 Feet Cable, Benfei DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Male Adapter Gold-Plated Cord
It's just a suggestion, the primarily multiple monitors weren't designed to be run off of HDMI and DisplayPort simultaneously.
Support:
Silverstone, EVGA semi-modular 750GQ/850GQ/1000GQ 1600T2/1000T2/850T2/750T2
1600P2/1200P2/1000P2/850P2/750P2/650P2 1600G2/1300G2/1000G2/850G2/750G2/650G2/550G2
1000G3/850G3/750G3/650G3/550G3 NEX650G/NEX750G NEX750B/750B1 450B3/550B3/650B3/750B3/850B3
850BQ/750BQ 650GS/550GS
(Doesn't work with 1000PS/850GS/1050GS)
You can’t do that with a headset; doing that will cause you to only get audio
You have to buy this -
It's a fairly common for its day B156XW04 V.8 panel, so it's not worth much efforts. Cheaper to replace.
Sounds like the soundcard is shagged I guess. To verify you would need another headset, so instead a usb dac might be easier and cheaper.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com.au/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/
How don't you find it? I mean, I do a basic Google search on the part number visible on the sticker, and I get like 25 different websites selling it. Though most of them are Ukrainian sites, so not sure if they are still selling.
If all else fails, you could buy this one from Amazon, it is exactly the same memory module, just with a different brand name.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-ValueRAM-PC3-12800-Motherboard-KVR16N11/dp/B0089JIDLC
That's really not the purpose of that type of HDD. I would not be running games off that, you'll most likely lower the life span of the drive. It's really meant for backups.
If your 480GB drive isn't enough, I would seriously consider upgrading it.
For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25NXWC7/
or 2TB model if you need more space.
It is under full load at the moment, it's quiet when not in use.
The noise is the same whether in the pc or in this bay.
They are both Seagate Exos X18s
I'm really sorry to keep asking stuff. But I think this one is the same but 1tb instead of the 2tb. So I'll probably get the one tb one if you think it's good. Why i wanted the 2 tb one is for longer-term. But now that I think about it 1tb is more than enough also the 1tb is cheaper. I only have to pay $44 bc of the gift card $100 Amazon GC. So if the 1tb is good ill probably get it.
Long story short, most any modern PC is using an SSD (solid state storage) because they are very fast. If you want your computer to feel snappy and responsive, you want an SSD. Games will load much faster on an SSD than on an HDD.
HDDs are usually only used when you need lots of storage cheaply.
For this PC, the operating system (Windows) is installed on the SSD so that everything is quick and snappy. You could install some games on the 256GB SSD, but also gives you a slower 2TB HDD to use however you want.
Sorry wrong link. Here is the correct one.
Well,
It's often not the moisture, it's the dirt/dust build up in the PSU that the moisture interacts with that creates this shortage issues.
We have our clients service their PSU's approximately every 24 months by removing, opening and cleaning the inside thoroughly to extend the life of the power supply.
That's for the monitor, anything that you feel has moisture damage, if an all possible disassemble to inspect and allow it to dry.
If you've got a simple one-time task and want the best performance
ARCTIC MX-5 (2 g) - Ultimate Performance Thermal Grease
But if you would rather have great performance in a tube for everyday use
ARCTIC MX-4 (incl. Spatula, 8 g) - Premium Performance Thermal Grease
It's the hard drive 😞
First, you must be commended on a perfect/0% bottleneck match of your Ryzen 9 3900X and GeForce RTX 3080!
But on the other hand, it may be making the other issue more noticeable.
Your 5400RPM has a read/write speed of approximately 60/20MB/s, creating a horrible data bandwidth between the HDD and the CPU. Had the system not been reinforced with the adequate 32GB of RAM, gaming may even have been unusable.
Although he didn't mention the model number of your motherboard, it's safe to say it has a PCIe 3.0 NVMe M.2 slot
A simple PCIe Gen3x4 NVMe SSD like this one that our clients constantly purchase.
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen3x4 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB)
...has read/write speeds of 3400/3000MB/s, making it fairly easy to see where you were true bottleneck lies.
And if you'd like a 2TB NVMe SSD, this is the second most popular with our clients.
So those two items will work, but why not get a full kit rather than two separate devices from different sources?
or
No, you would purchase a USB to NVMe tool like this one, and test it on another computer. Somebody would let you use.
And the best windows installation tool is the one you download online, the Windows Media Creation Tool for Windows 10. It will let you create the latest windows installation key. Plus there's some features that you can use in it that isn't available in some of the store bought versions.
Here's the NVMe SSD our clients purchase the most.
Silicon Power PCIe M.2 NVMe SSD 1TB Gen3x4 R/W up to 3, 400/3, 000MB/s internal SSD
No that shouldn't be a problem.
You may want to look into buying an HDMI switcher though. That would allow you to essentially use the monitor to connect both the PC and Xbox with two HDMI cables preventing the need to keep unplugging and plugging cables.
Basically something like this.
These 8th gen/9th gen motherboards are getting the be harder and harder to come from.
The one we had to buy last month for a client, which just slightly over your budget, was this one.
Questions are what we're all about!
Well, dual channel and four slots are dissociative. Let's explain. We don't understand your full system build yet, but the processor will be dual channel. It will pull from each channel independently the memory addresses what it needs.
As far as four sticks of memory, for each channel, that will be a primary in a secondary. So basically, each channel will have two sticks of memory to write to. This will speed up memory bandwidth, but it's critical in some cases that the secondary memory match the primary for the best stability.
BTW, after some research from your GPU Z information, it appears that the part number for the actual memory modules are HyperX Fury HX424C15FB/4. You may want to physically look at your old ones to verify that. A set of these are going for $40-$50, and you can upgrade to two 16GB sticks for $70.
With your new information, it's starting to sound like you've actually got a graphics card! Apparently your earlier test did not account for that outright, but it doesn't matter because the Geforce GTX 750 Ti is still only 2GB. Math is still the same. We are curious to know the processor being used.
The only "issue" is the motherboard's three M.2 slots has PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMe support, with the one closest to the CPU being directly connected to the processor, and your Samsung is only a slower PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe.
Once installed, the processor will automatically step down to the 3.0 x4 speeds, as that's how PCIe has worked from the beginning.
And we know that the timing isn't right, but Amazon has this insane deal on a Samsung 4.0 gaming stick.
Put a few standoffs between the monitor and the bracket so that you have more space, and if needed use a 90° HDMI adapter
Most mounts come with an assortment of plastic standoffs, or you could just use a bunch of washer. You will likely need longer screws.
We would give it a great deal of consideration.
Besides, we get a brand off of Amazon that we've had a great deal of success with over the years.
This should do the trick. Install this into one of the x1 pcie slots of your motherboard and connect the type c male internal cable into the port.
use an usb enclosure to pull your data off the failing drive?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SS31/dp/B017NIDXF0/ for 2.5" drives
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2 for 3.5" drives
That's a pretty standard cooler and the clips can be swapped to a new fan, which is what you need to buy to fix the noise it's making.
Luckily they're pretty cheap and you can probably use one of your case fans on the cpu cooler until the replacement comes in.
The one our clients purchase the most that meets your specs is this model here.
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower
In our tech community it has become a go-to in place of the equivalent APC.
Here's my suggested RAM sticks - TeamGroup Elite DDR4-2400MHz (2x8GB) CL16 SODIMM
First, you would buy a USB to NVMe adapter like this:
SSK Aluminum M.2 NVME SSD Enclosure Adapter, USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10 Gbps) to NVME PCI-E M-Key
Then, you can use the Lazesoft Recovery Suite to clone the old drive in the computer to the new one in the USB.
Lazesoft Recovery Suite Home Editio
Then once it's cloned, just swap them out. You can even put your old NVMe SSD in this new case and use it for external storage.
WD Green SSD 2TB is $149 on Amazon right now is probably the cheapest end. Worth it for gaming. Non-gaming storage will be fine with the drive you initially linked.
Unfortunately the monitors won't daisy chain.
Being an Intel processor, many of our clients opt for a docking station. That way you could simply run HDMI cables to your Q24h-10 monitors and be done with it.
Here's the model our clients purchase the most.
Looks like the link was deleted. We would have our clients simply upgrade. Let us know if you didn't get the link.
Technically, yes. Worth it? Not at all and here's why:
Your device is a mini-PCIE device, (used in ITX style motherboards, or in this case a laptop to save space), and most PC's carry a PCIE slot, obviously this is dependent on your Motherboard. I'd locate your Mobo or PC manual to see if you can track down specs on the slots offered. My guess is it doesn't natively support Mini-PCIE. With that said, you can buy an adapter like this but the adapter alone is $30. You're better off buying a USB BT adapter or a PCIE x1 compatible BT card that is roughly the same price.
You can get 12400F + MSI PRO B660M-G for £285 and it's going to outperform the 11600k. That extra £100 would allow you to get an RX6700 as the GPU. For wifi, just get £10 wifi dongle, it's as good as built in wifi.
I'm currently using a 1660 super and they can usually price under $250. You could go to a 2060 which is a little bit more but for both options you may need to upgrade the psu at some point if you notice reduced performance.
RTX 2060 - Claims it has 12 GB VRAM
GTX 1660 Super - Claims it has 6 GB VRAM
Then a 650W PSU would be a good replacement, just so you have some legroom for potential upgrades in the future. Issue is that it'll still cost you about a 100 bucks to get one that's not garbage-bin tier.
Yeah you won't have anything decent for that low, period (bar a few low power mini-ITX ones or models that are basically a fire hazard). A 750W Bronze-rated Corsair one is 100 bucks or so. Most good PSUs are in the 100-150 bucks bracket (with the exception of high power/highly rated ones who are much more expensive).
Can you find out what is the wattage of your current one is ? Knowing that would go a long way to know what you shpuld get and for how much.
Gonna need sone thing like this:
https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41?th=1
Never tried them so cannot comment of the functionality but reviews seem positive,
though im more curious why your GPU doesn't fit into the top PCI-E port
There is this... https://www.amazon.com/YEELIYA-PCI-7-Port-USB-C-USB/dp/B08PF8XR73/ref=zg_bs_229185_sccl_1/131-2245520-5655328?psc=1
PCI-e usb 3.0 seven port card, if you have a slot on your board.
This is my current stick. I guess the MSI Trident 3 uses laptop ram.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-PC4-21300-2666MHZ-SODIMM-laptop/dp/B07F6HBK1N/ref=asc\_df\_B07F6HBK1N/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7545320135430592159&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
>Hello, i have a Gigabyte h510m h mobo and deepcool rf120 m 5 Fans plugged into it. But they only are yellow all the time
I'm pretty sure you need an RGB fan controller to change the colors.
RIP hard drive is dead.
Those where warning signs...hope you have backups of any files you needed to save.
Replace with a SSD for a much faster system.
You'll need a copy of Windows on a bootable USB drive.
If you don't have one you'll need access to another pc and will have to make one. There are tons of tools to do it. Microsoft has the info
If your pc came with a windows sticker...Ya it won't work!!
They're for the factory image. With all the bloatware and shit. You'll need to either purchase a key for windows or go the pirated way.
Worse case scenario you install without a key and after your trial is expired you use the
"slmgr /rearm" code in powershell for an extra grace period. Can do it 3 times I think...
- replace drive
- Install Windows
- Install drivers and updates
- Head to Ninite for whatever else you need.
- Good to go.
or what about this product so I can just replace the one stick with two matching ones, does this work or not?
will this work? It almost has the same product name, but on the crucial website it said MSI24D4S7S8MB-8 , the difference is MSI is changed into HP and has MBP-8 at the end instead of MB-8. But I see both speeds have 2400 so I guess that's fine. Or do you have any better alternatives (preferably from Amazon please) ram product
Yes. You need something like a small amp that has optical in. The brand "Pyle" has a lot of little amps like this. Not recommending this specifically but something like https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amplifier-Multi-Channel-Amplifier-Remote-Pyle-PDA4BU/dp/B081QGYJ9C
SSD's nowadays are very cheap. A 500GB Samsung SSD costs 60 bucks or so.
So just keep this one in your new PC and get him a new one.
would this work in addition to the current ram stick?