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No problem man. The grease won't leave white smear marks on your gun or the internals if you clean it up. Just use a wipe and you're all good. For deep cleaning I use isopropyl alcohol on metal parts and a couple of dental picks to get metal shavings out.
Like u/Happy_mafia97 said, less is more with GBBR's. The same applies to real rifles. The more lubed it is, the more dirt it will attract. Just leave a very thin film across all the metal parts that rub against eachother and get a little dot spread down inside the Firing Control Group (FCG), on the autosear, and on anything else in the lower that makes contact with the Bolt Carrier. Small, fine-bristled brushes also work well for cleaning and getting lubricant spread in those harder to reach areas of the gun
Use a small amount and thin layer of thick-viscosity silicon oil for anything plastic or polymer that moves against any other material.
Edit: This is the AGS White Lithium I use. If you've got access to Amazon, you can most likely kiss that supply shortage goodbye. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GQ6N1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1DdgFbVV959HF
I'm in the UK, but whenever one of mine goes, I just find the best fitting one from a kit like this
That is from the States, but will no doubt have in stores and Ebay too. Ideally you want Buna-N o rings as they are resistant to any oils or greases you may encounter
https://www.amazon.com/ELECBEE-Airsoft-Propane-Filling-Silicone/dp/B09SKNM8ZX/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=119725977590&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx8Slhcmc-wIVDo3ICh1K4gGBEAAYASAAEgI-mPD_BwE&hvadid=489192390165&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9067609&hvnetw... this is the one I have but I plan on getting a plastic one because I’ve heard they are better but this one has worked really well for me.
Do you mean the T2/red dot mount? It is a Reptilia Mount https://www.amazon.com/Reptilia-Mount-Aimpoint-Micro-CompM5/dp/B07VWZ3J4F/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2833YXYVJAOI3&keywords=reptilia+dot&qid=1667546673&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=reptilia+dot%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc
This'll do it. You can nest the tubes/rods as needed to get a suitably narrow diameter, but I suspect if you just need to get to 1.5J that the largest size will do.
So I google , it can vary. The pull is affected by spring you use and how polished sears are.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/GDR-15-Dedicated-Light-Trigger-Spring/dp/B07T2XLNXN
8 lbs, but I dont know which generation this is
Buy this valve tool and a few new valves..also buy a harbor freight metric oring kit they come with 300 o rings for cheap and you can change the base square gasket on the mags and even hicapa/m4 adapter orings
a small little trick i do to remove the stock wobble without using tape is using self-adhesive Velcro like this. Just use the the soft side on the inside of the stock :)
I know Poseidon also does hopup units for 416 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/POSEIDON-PI-024-Striker-Hop-Chamber/dp/B08LC1BH29). Tbh I just yeeted the entire stock unit to replace it with a T-N.T chamber/bucking and a cheap 6.02 barrel.
>some reviews are saying that its teflon based, and some are saying its silicone based, and some are saying its both.
Super Lube makes both synthetic and silicone greases with PTFE as a boundary agent. Teflon is a trade name for PTFE. So the silicone grease with PTFE is a silicone-based lubricant that contains Teflon; the grease you linked is a synthetic-based lubricant that contains Teflon. Unless you specifically need silicone for chemical compatibility reasons, the synthetic you linked is the way to go.
It's excellent grease, but every application has an ideal grease weight, and GBBs tend to work better with a thinner/lighter grease than the default NLGI Grade 2. So, you can improve it further by cutting it 50/50 with the equivalent oil (this stuff), which thins it out from the consistency of peanut butter (grade 2) to more like the consistency of mayonnaise (grade 0). This reduces surface tension and makes the contact surfaces feel more slick, while still retaining the beneficial properties of grease, and improves performance in some areas where the out-of-the-bottle grease can have a tendency to gum up surfaces (eg your nozzle O-rings).
If you don't want to deal with that hassle, though, using it out of the bottle is fine, just keep to very thin layers. Apply with a finger and buff off; the surfaces should look dry.
Used these for wire routing on mine.
For pretty much all AR styled gbbrs, this is the 'special tool' you need. https://www.amazon.com/ZYPDGZFZ-Multi-function-Wrench-Removal-Repair/dp/B09TSJSWP1/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=armorers+wrench&qid=1646692397&sr=8-5
If you're rolling with the MK18 then the first thing you're going to source is this or similar. You're not getting the rail off without it, and you can't access the hopup chamber assembly without taking that off. There are 2 nested castle nuts because seeing gaijin suffer makes tokyomarui-kun giggle. You will need said too remove the first one and a regular castle nut wrench for the second. There will be glue or loctite in places that will make you question your life choices.
Once you open it up it's fine, GBBRs are simple as bricks inside compared to AEGs.
Searching for "MWS" on pretty much any site will set you right for finding parts, there are a lot of aftermarket parts by plenty of manufacturers.
For specifics you might want to seek out discord groups like Heavy Recoil and Tokyo Marui Owners' (at work so you'll need to google).
Everyone has their favorites so I'll let you come to your own decisions on brands but I would suggest a reinforced adjustable fps nozzle assembly and a reinforced buffer.
Depends on what you want to do with the GBBR. Are you going to skirmish with it or are you just going to be using it for training at a range/backyard/whatever? People will tell you to replace every single part of the gun to make it more "realistic." Which is honestly bullshit for the most part. The kick and recoil will always be anemic in comparison. Your accuracy and range will always be limited because you're chucking a smooth plastic pellet out of a smooth bore with only back-spin for stability.
With all that, if you want to train manual of arms, transitions, rapid short range shooting and so on, just grab the gun and mags. A spare nozzle with NPAS to fiddle with the fps and bucking to handle heavier BBs is a plus. Inner barrels, in my experience, provide the smallest marginal benefit to performance.
And even if you want to skirmish with it, I'd say get a spare nozzle and hopup chamber/bucking but hold off on the rest until you get to grips with it and form your own informed opinion as to what you need to replace.
If you want to take the rail off (to replace it with something else or to have access to the hopup chamber to change the bucking etc) make sure to grab something like this. The teeth might need to be shaved slightly to fit but you're not taking the barrel nut off without this or a similar tool. Taking that damn barrel nut is a nightmare, be prepared to torque the loctite/superglue off.
Take a look at the listing here
I know fully well it’s a more expensive option but my Tokyo Marui wasn’t cheap so I’m comfortable feeding her the good stuff
Also I have a 3d print design to get the ML bucking working. It's various tiny nubs that fit in various WE gbbrs.
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Heres the tinkerchad link:
Does this work as the top if I disassemble the rest?
I use one of their flashlights on my MP7, though I haven't actually been to the indoor place in almost 2 years now, so I mostly make jokes about signaling with the guys outdoors. Thing's definitely bright enough to dazzle and has a pretty good throw. I did buy a new endcap/momentary switch for it because I don't like the feel of the included one.
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This switch, though it's currently not on the site. Just have to look for something similar. Was $12.
Sorry for the late reply, its a series of 6 or 7 parts i just had laying around.
Next time i have it out i can give you exact lengths all i can remember at the moment is there are two 7 inch parts for the front. Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airsoft-Inches-177mm-Barrel-Extension/dp/B07MX262FV/
My TAR-21 KWA comes tomorrow so I`m not familiar yet with it, but as far as I know its held by this 2 pins : https://monosnap.com/file/8reLuTOZbDevtZrw9Xf556wyG2wROH
Try to find if those are removable.
You're not seeing weights listed because you're looking at airsoft-rebranded lubricants.
Since you've already gone ahead and bought thin oil, just get one or the other of the above for now. I'd recommend grease but it's your call.
>Really? I picked just the 60 degree bucking and the shop I was at just put them in without giving a alternative or a better option. He also said it was difficult to replace, it took him a 1,5 hour.
What? An hour and a half? That's absurd. If you have a barrel wrench it's five minutes, tops, to get at the hop-up. I really recommend doing that sort of work yourself; it's not hard and will help you to troubleshoot if the installation isn't perfect.
As for degree- in theory there's an optimal degree for each power level. In practice I find 70D is fine for anything up to 450FPS or so, and the stiffer material behaves more consistently across temperature ranges.
>Do you have a personal favorite?
Yup, I use Super Lube w/ PTFE. It's thick, like the consistency of solidified animal fat, but a very thin smear is all that's needed.
>The seals are okay! Almost blew out a long, lol.
Perfect. Like I said you're probably just experiencing the limitations of propane at lower temperatures. At that temperature, red gas or black gas would be the way to go, or just straight propylene if you can find it locally.
Cut it down and hammer one of those into the front. Ideally heat up the gas tube so it's more flexible. Worked great for me!
Edit: I had to file away some material on the inside since the gas tube is cut so short that the steel is doubled at this point (gas tube + handguard retainer).
For anyone looking for a budget red dot that holds up to recoil I can recommend the Feyachi v30. The dot bleeds a bit but it comes with a nice riser and screw on killflash that I inserted some acrylic into. Can't complain for under $100
Running this chest rig
OAREA Camouflage Quick Release... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LF8HHN9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
With this smg insert
Viper VX Quad SMG Mag Sleeve Dark Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q7N8HJP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DZVX7HE68XM89VVCQV02
Something like this ?
TACBRO .223/5.56 Free Float Rail Barrel Nut Washer 20 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNWT19V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_83DLFb96QEV7E
I’m 100% certain I installed the DD ring correctly
I have a WE 416D (what used to be /u/mdigibou's gun, actually :P). The base system is good and you'll save some length with the C version, but that stock will certainly not be as comfortable as a regular buffer tube.
Recommendations on the gun: RA trigger parts are a must (if not the whole box), get an Angry Gun nozzle and FG-Airsoft low flow discs, avoid Angel Custom like the plague, and you'll be good.
As for the gun in a bag thing: you can do that with an M4 or regular 416, you just need a slightly bigger bag and to split the receivers for travel. I use a Hazard 4 Plan B and it fits perfectly.
UTG on Amazon is got some good products for relatively cheap.
I'm picking this up for my carbine kit.
Check this out at Amazon.com UTG Prismatic 4X32 T4x Center Reticle Mil-Dot Scope https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTJU7EI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_GPWTEbVVEK86K
Yes, I think it is the o-ring inside the magazine. Reconditioning can fix it, and that has worked for me. Another method is to replace the original o-ring with a thicker diameter o-ring. You would still have to lube of the new o-ring, but that has also solved my problems.
The last method I talked about earlier is to use gasket sealer. This is a last resort method. I usually do this to the KA v1 mags, because those are just a pain in the ass to fix it any other way. This will definitely fix any leaking problems, but it is a mess to take the magazine apart once applied.
I would also recommend getting sets of gaskets in metric and standard from amazon. ~$30 for 800 gaskets. I personally think it is a must if you have a lot of GBBs. Because these things WILL eventually fail, just a matter of time. Metric Set Standard Set