What are /r/Hubitat's favorite Products & Services?

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This works perfectly. It has a built-in battery. You can detect when it switches from "mains" to "battery".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZB2VP4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works even easier, and is cheaper, too. It has a built-in battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZB2VP4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have looked at those too, their products as a whole have decent reviews. For the money, if your fans have remotes, take a look at Bond. I have had mine since early 2018 and it has worked great. It is connected to my Hubitat and it controls every fan in my house and I have it connected to Alexa so it is the best of both worlds (alexa & hubitat). It is 99 bucks and as a bonus, it controls my gas log fireplace which my wife loves.

Yes, you will definitely need to run wires to the module if you go the thermostat route. I have a zwave hub as well, but there is no direct connectivity option for integration with it. Maybe through an IFTTT routine, but I'm not familiar with that.

You'd think that Mitsubishi should just have connectivity built in, like other manufacturers. But they made it an optional add-on. It does work perfectly though, with the app. And apparently has the Alexa integration. see this link for more info on that. https://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Electric-US-kumo-cloud/dp/B07D4PZBX4 .

The "connected" remote option is possible, but it is only usable in a line of site scenario. So if there's something in the way, then you lose communication. You also tend to lose some of the features when using a third-party remote.

> I have a feeling of the Kumo cloud can make it connect to Alexa, that I can connect it through Hubitat or something I already have.

Not a good assumption - Mitsubishi have written the Alexa integration, as opposed to publishing an API that permitted Amazon to write that integration.

That being said, your heat-pump likely supports the Mitsubishi PAC-US444CN-1 thermostat interface.

This interface runs about $250, and will permit you to control the heat-pump with the conventional thermostat of your choice, such as a z-wave or zigbee thermostat that is Hubitat compatible, or even an ecobee, for which there is a Hubitat cloud integration.

Here's the relevant Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Electric-Thermostat-Interface-R2/dp/B01BNW6PZM

If you can't put in smart light switches. Third reality makes switch plate adapters that works well to keep the bulbs from losing power. I use one to automate the bathroom ventilation fan through the wall switch. If a light switch is left in wrong position. I have a nightly refresh that corrects physical light switch if they ever get left in the wrong position.

https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Zigbee-Switch-Compatible-Studio/dp/B08TVZK8D6?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I use these.

https://www.amazon.com/Zigbee-Sensors-XHS2-TY-XHS2-UE-Security/dp/B01N3CVD4L?pd_rd_w=zJvtT&pf_rd_p=e4582113-8a43-4d17-8091-72fc02360b82&pf_rd_r=6H0M7S9A9QNJA2G98M7D&pd_rd_r=f218e7d9-dd9f-4750-96da-1dce33947b5e&pd_rd_wg=wk3Q6&pd...

They have a temp sensor that seems pretty good, but any temp sensor on an outside door/window will not be accurate (unless I'm doing something wrong)

Hey,

I bought this one from Yale.

Yale Real Living Security YRD 110-ZW-619 Key Free Electronic Push Button Deadbolt, Fully Motorized with Z-Wave Technology, Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00PM6V1XW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DR6TVHYH5SSGQJ7SBV44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly, works great.

Easy to install and connected pretty quickly.

Rule Machine will do anything you want, but it's complicated and time-consuming to set up. I avoid it when I can do the job any other way. Simpler sensor/bulb interactions can be done with the "Simple Automations Rules" app, and you can add time of day or day of week or mode restrictions to them.

It's great that you have a Denon AVR. Denon has an open HTTP control protocol, and there's a nice Denon driver in the Hubitat system that allows input control, volume control, etc. I set the Button Controller app with a virtual switch to change inputs on certain scenes, like "Movie mode" or "TV mode" or "Game mode."

If you plan to add 100 more RGBW bulbs and you don't want to spend too much, I have a specific bulb to recommend. Sylvania Smart+ Zigbee bulbs. I went aon a quest to find the perfect bulb for my needs and this was the one I chose. my criteria were:

• Locally controlled.
• Accurate white balance from 2700k-6000k.
• Even brightness between RGBW to CT modes.
• Low price.

I tested several brands of WIFI and ZigBee lights before settling on Sylvania. On sale, the can be had for as little as $12.50 USD per bulb. But wait for the sales.

Ever think about a zigbee button? I have these put on my fridge because the switches are in an inconvenient place and just in case Alexa goes down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095TW4TT8/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this set. They're extremely nice. I collect the signals from them with an SDR connected to a Pi running rtl_433, which outputs over MQTT.

I pull that into HA because MQTT 'support' on Hubitat is beyond laughably bad, but with enough work you can pull them into Hubitat too.

>Micro PC's like the Raspberry Pi are scarce on the ground right now.

Unless you need GPIO, a Raspberry pi is a pretty shit solution. Once you get a case, power supply, SSD, etc, it's over $150. There's a million NUC clones on Amazon for $170+ that are much much better than some Pi in a hanky case with some crappy USB SSD hanging off it.

Heck, you can get mini PCs for less than you'd pay for a Pi that are still easily 2x faster than a Pi, with a eMMC and real Ethernet. I recommend spending a little more for a much faster system, bit stuff like this still beats a Pi. Raspberry Pi are a really stupid system for HA.

There's a million more NUC clones available right now, and they're all better than a Pi, for anywhere between less money to slightly more.

You probably have a switch loop/end of line setup like I do in a few spots in my house. Most of the smart switches need a neutral to work, so you'll typically see one line for load, line, a bundled up neutral, and the ground. This will work if neutral is required.

In my switch loop boxes I just see a white and black line going to the switch and a ground, which may or may not be attached to the switch. If that's the scenario you see, you'll need an Enbrighten 52252 or an Inovelli.

I went with the Enbrighten because it can go down to as low as 2W load. My bathroom light has a 7W led and there's no issues. With the Inovelli, you need at least a 25W load or put in a load resistor. I didn't want to mess with a load resistor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WJLCY3K/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>Door contact sensor probably won't work because the door might be closed enough to show that it's shut, but it might not seal up all the way

I put contact sensors on my fridge/freezer (swing doors). Just mount them in such a way that they're barely close enough when the door is fully closed.

As for temp sensors, I use these. I have them connected to Home Assistant, not Hubitat, since Home Assistant actually supports MQTT without needing to write a bunch of custom crap in Groovy. Z-wave has a hard time making it out of the fridge/freezer at 908MHz, and ZigBee has no chance at 2.4GHz.

I wouldn't tuck a sensor through the seal, that'll end up with more losses than you realize. Seals on modern fridge/freezer are air-tight for good reason. It's not just a small opening you'd be making, but a complete breakage of the air-tightness, allowing for a ton of loss due to air now being able to move in and out of the freezer.

If you can't get a door sensor mounted in such a way that it doesn't show closed unless the door is actually closed, then I'd look into those Acurite sensors and spinning up HA. There's an integration for HA that allows you to use the Hubitat as a glorified ZigBee/Z-wave hub, and it works really well, which is how I have my Hubitat running. ZigBee/Z-wave connected to Hubitat, which connects to HA, and everything else handled in HA since it's easier there.

I bought some window break sensors that detect the sound of smashing glass to deal with the possibility of someone just throwing a rock through my glass patio doors. They seem to work. At least, I played sounds of smashing glass at it and it triggered.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DSRGGXQ

I think we need more by way of details vis-a-vis your setup. If you are in the US, and all your timer controller does is provide power to the pump, you can replace the timer controller with a 220V z-wave switch like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/

Both of these can handle 110-277VAC. And up to 40Amps. Both of them work with Hubitat, and you can setup schedules in Hubitat for when the switch should be on and off.

You can't find anything lower than this right now:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YDF7967/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2KMKT3SN6C56SGTE1ZG4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

$9/unit is great for ZigBee door sensors.

with a PoE splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANVISION-Splitter-Adapter-Compliant-Raspberry/dp/B079D5452Z/ref=sxin_22_ac_m_pm?ac_md=2-1-QWJvdmUgJDE1-ac_m_pm_pm_pm&crid=3HZXYN33X3IA6&cv_ct_cx=poe+splitter+usb&keywords=poe+splitter+usb&pd_rd_i=B079D5452Z&a...

>Kasa tp-link have various options for these.

Is this the one, does it work with Hubitat ?
Amazon DE link

Thanks

This is a list of sounds you can use when the msg hits your phone

https://pushover.net/api#sounds

I set up a couple virtual push over devices, each using a different sound

I've recently gone through the learning process with hubitat, though my goal was more security oriented than yours (turn on all outside lights if any outside motion detected etc). Iris/utilitech siren. I use Pushover.net for practically instant smartphone notifications. I've been happy with the Hue outdoor motion sensors (choice seems to be limited in that function). Indoor motions have Samsung, Iris v2 and Ecolink, all seem good. Have set up 5 different plug in outlets (Inovelli, GE, iris, centralite, Samsung), they all seem to function ok, as well as GE and Inovelli switches/dimmers. Many of these devices (motion and even contact) also report temp and even lux. Also have a Ring range extender to detect mains power loss rather than extend range, and CT101 thermostat. If you are getting Z-wave devices, try to get Zwave plus, for Zigbee, get HA1.2 certified is possible. GE recently brought out zigbee versions of their switches/dimmers. I have wyze cameras set up independently for remote viewing (not done anything with IFTTT yet).

Thanks for the link. Didn't know that existed.
But would that work for a hub? It looks like you need to have the hub serve a page generated by Certbot https://certbot.eff.org/docs/using.html#manual to get a cert issued as you need to prove its your domain.

Centralite

Centralite Smart Plug Mini (Works with SmartThings, Wink, Hubitat, Vera Plus, Echo Plus, Home Assistant, and ZigBee platforms) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFPYV4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DBPYVB7GP28DDT74NGC3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

IDK if these are the cheapest, but I bought a bunch of these 6 months ago and they've been pretty flawless. 1 or 2 had to be power cycled during that time period, but they've been pretty solid.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K45W4LR/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same here. These seem to work great with Hubitat. Here is a link direct to them, but I second this guy, just stick one in your cart anytime you order. Less expensive to buy one at a time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PSKRSP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I have about 10 of these around the house. All purchased at different times, but some are 2+ years old and I haven’t had a single issue with any of them:

Securifi Peanut Smart Plug

This is for up lights for trees and my house ( don't worry, I have weatherproof encasements, although operating temp is a concern... we will see).

In this case there's about a 100 foot jump between two lights. This my main concern. I can probably pop a plug into a box like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B16G7T3/, but I'm not confident that I can jump off the existing line in the middle as I think it's actually a lower voltage for wall lights.

My question was more focused on the concept of zigbee failing at distance and zwave working for someone and a BR30 zwave rgb bulb recommendation.

You’ll need the Pro Bridge.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-L-BDGPRO2-WH-SmartBridge-Programmed/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3MRADRDPMLJ36&dchild=1&keywords=lutron+pro+bridge&qid=1628694166&sprefix=Lutron+pro%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-2

I’ve got an unused Inovelli Fan and Light controller I’ll sell you, and two used ones too. I’ll warn you though, they’re absolute fucking garbage.

I’m using these, they work ok https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV

2 meters is perfectly fine as a length. You just need a cable with a Micro-USB connector on one end, and a USB-A connector on the other. Make sure it's a USB 2.0 cable, those 3.0 cables have a different style of connector. Make sure to get a decent quality cable, it's what's delivering power to your hub after all. Anker makes good cables, and something like this one would fit your needs.

I wouldn't go over 3 meters with the stock adapter, as there is power loss as cables get longer and you don't want to stress the adapter.

If you're going to use smart bulbs don't use a traditional switch. Use something like this

Lutron Z3-1BRL-WH-L0 Aurora Smart Bulb Dimmer, 1 Pack, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RJ14FBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QDHADREC95HWH9F8GMW9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's likely that the dimmer and lighting aren't 100% happy together. I have bought so many bulbs and dimmers over the last couple years to find happy combinations. And even some combinations I'd call "happy" aren't completely happy especially at the low end. Yeah, a cap supposedly can help. I just bought a couple of the Lutron version but haven't installed yet. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E

So I bought a z wave outlet off amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LN2NPZ3

It paired fine but it paired as a dual outlet when in fact it is a single outlet. I read the reviews and a person in there said it works great with the EVA Logik driver. So I set it that way and it does work great. Question though is I still have the double plug as options under it. Should I just delete those and leave the EVA Logik alone? Or is that going to break everything?

Thanks

Smart switches from inovelli and zooz work well. I would use dimmable switches in certain rooms such as a bathroom.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hours-Dimmable-Lumens-Light/dp/B074M9CC77/

$5 or so a piece from Amazon if you don't have a home depot near you.

It’s not going to tell you what the temperature is set to, only the temperature of the water that you put the sensor in.

The 4 in 1 sensor I have does motion, temperature, illumination, battery, and humidity.

Something like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O

Is this the daylight bulb that works with a Hue Hub? Just want to confirm before buying some. Much cheaper than the Philips or Sengled tunable white bulbs.

<code>https://smile.amazon.com/Sengled-Daylight-Equivalent-Assistant-SmartThings/dp/B078HHWQWG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1D7S6CG72W4M9&amp;amp;dchild=1&amp;amp;keywords=sengled%2Bsmart%2Bled%2Bdaylight%2Bextra%2Bbright%2Ba19%2Blight%2Bbulb&amp;amp;qid=1605457961&amp;amp;sprefix=Sengled%2Bdaylight%2Bled%2Blight%2Bbulbs%2Caps%2C304&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;th=1</code>

Hey /u/Yurishimo,

I have an idea on when they'll release, but it seems like something inevitably happens!

What I can say is the On/Off's (shown in the video) are in Chicago right now, enroute to HQ. We will have a limited batch available early next week and then the ones headed to Amazon are shipping on the 7th, so I'd anticipate them being on Amazon around the 14th. The pages have been built so you can check the status in a week or so here:

Red Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T26MVYC/

Base Model https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T2416D8/

Hope this helps and thanks for the support!

Understood... I did a bit better though. $130 and about a week. Just got finished installing it and integrating it. Took me maybe an hour from opening the box to having 12 switches connected and the integration to HE complete. All of my HE rules were set up based on device groups rather than individual devices so I didn't have to mess with any rules... just the groups. Easy-peasy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I have this model with the wifi connect bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752V8D8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4ARpFbXFC47G8. So should I disconnect from the bridge then I should be able to paid with hubitat?

The SmartThings branded Zigbee bulbs are a great value if you don't need the color capability. They're something like $8 on Amazon right now, and they are EXCELLENT repeaters. They're one of the few repeaters that Xiaomi Aqara devices will tolerate. So if you have a bunch of these bulbs around and you end up getting cheap Xiaomi Aqara sensors, you won't have any issues.

FYI for when you pair the bulb. It will initially show as a Generic Zigbee plug. You just need to change it to a Generic Zigbee bulb.

I would avoid Sengleds for non color bulb needs because they don't help expand your Zigbee mesh at all. I have a handful of them and they work great, but that was before the ST branded bulbs existed. If I had to do it all over today, I'd replace all my Sengleds with the ST bulbs, except for the color ones I have.

Here's the amazon link to the Lutron Smart Bridge Pro 2. This is the latest version and will work with Hubitat.

Personally, I would second u/IcePick74's recommendation and purchase it from EnergyAvenue.

I use the Homeseer sensors that you mention. When I think about the various sensors that I use, they're up on the top of the "cool" list.

Mine might be a just slightly older version than the ones they're selling now. Mine have the same model number, but the instructions say incandescent only. I looked at the manual at your link, and that one indicates LED is fine, so there has probably been a minor update.

I absolutely love them. They take a bit of tinkering with lux and timing settings within Hubitat, but then you're pretty much good to go.

One thing that's nice: You get a motion detected signal in Hubitat. I have one spot where if there is motion, it probably means that either someone is working around the house at night, or breaking in, so I set that one motion detector to turn on ALL exterior floodlights.

Second thing that's REALLY nice: You can remotely turn motion sensing on/off. So on my back porch, I like to go out and look at stars at night -- so I don't like the motion lights to come on then. I also use Lutron Caseta in my house, so I put a two switch decora plate over the one switch that controls the porch light, and stuck a Pico remote in the second spot. If you hit the bottom button, Hubitat turns off the motion sensor and starts a 2 hour timer to turn the motion sensor back on by itself -- because I will forget to turn it back on. Top Pico button turns motion sensing back on -- in case I do remember. I put a clear plastic "safety switch" cover over the dumb on/off switch to prevent the light from being accidentally turned off. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGV8S88 )

They also deliver illuminance data to Hubitat, so if you want to use that for local weather impacted dawn/dusk settings (or whatever else you want Hubitat to control based on outside light), you can.

The zooz outdoor motion sensors can be hard wired.

I use those + z-wave switches on my outside lights. It's only 100deg though.

I use these zigbee plugs with Hubitat. They're relatively inexpensive and work very well as repeaters in a zigbee mesh.

• Securifi Peanut Smart Plug. $14.99 ea.
• Ikea Tradfi Outlet. $9.99 ea.

Both work really well with Hubitat.

Edit - I also jumped from Wink to Hubitat. You will like the switch! I had some iHome plugs as well, but I gave those away more than a year ago because iHome's cloud was never particularly reliable for me.

Interesting. I recently ordered some Sengled bulbs when they were on sale and was hoping to use them as repeaters (and using Zigbee buttons for on/off functions, the bulbs being constantly powered). If they cause such issues, is there a good way to detect them, other than powering the bulbs off?