Then try looking for Norco, Inter-Tech or Fantec cases. You can pick up a decent Fantec 8bay small server on the German Amazon for about 160 Euro's: https://www.amazon.de/FANTEC-SRC-2080X07-Storagegeh%C3%A4use-intern-schwarz/dp/B00HFGJRR4
Drop one of these NICs in your workstation if you're just planning on a direct connection. You'll need some configuration in your systems' hosts files but other than that it's pretty simple.
https://www.slideshare.net/PetteriTeikariPhD/deep-learning-workstation
Good data point - talks about a SM mobo for around 500 USD. But I was wondering if folks could try it with a LGA 1366 or a 1155
Do you think there is something else causing the beeping?
The note in the manual is 'No memory detected'. I have 4 sticks so I tried with just 1 stick and 2 but got the same beeps. I'm at a loss with this. Could my CPU be causing this issue?
I'm considering buying non-ecc and see if that makes a difference?
Mofangtech 4U New Folding 19 Inches Cold Rolled Steel Wall Mountable Simple Vertical Rack and Networking Euipment Rack Including Hardware for Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T7CV1WX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_66SEPuVw7v8gT
I use this
Here is a download link to the latest files:
S55xx_BIOS69_EFI_BIOS_Only.zip
S5520HC_S5520SC_EFI_BIOS64_BMC61_FRU33_ME112.zip
S5520HC_R0061Rec.zip
You should be able to use UNetbootin to create a FreeDOS bootable stick on a Mac, then just add the other files from the download to the stick. You just need to make sure the USB stick is formatted in FAT32.
Yeah. The card came with it. Rakuten has the card for $65 currently I will probably use it once i get my 2x other NVMe drives. (im not sure which ones to pick?) I do like the HP EX 920 or EX950 series, and i would prefer 1TB)
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>The best option i’ve found is a 32 foot active USB for about 10.00... but it’s USB 2. What is the USB to Ethernet option?
If you absolutely need USB 3.0 then you'd need to buy an active USB 3.0 extension cable like one of these ones. I can't speak to the quality of that particular one, so you should probably search around more. Is this for VR? Because a mouse, keyboard or game controller only needs USB 2.0. There's very few USB 3.0 over ethernet adaptors around, if any. For your case, you can just use an active cable since the run is quite short.
>Also - where have you found the best prices on this stuff... i’ve been looking at mono price.
Monoprice is good, as long as you're buying the right cable. I think from memory (someone correct me if I'm wrong), it's around 30ft when you should be looking at active cables. Things can be tougher when you're talking 4K 60Hz+ with 4:4:4 and higher bandwidth throughput on the same cable. I would tend to buy from somewhere with either a good return policy or some sort of guarantee that the cable can push the maximum rated high bandwidth signal it says on the packaging.
With that said, I'm probably not the best person to ask when it comes to pointing out where to buy stuff since I'm based in Australia, so importing from Amazon US tends to be my main source of niche stuff like this.
I have a similar kind of setup to switch between gaming at my TV or desk using the same PC and it works flawlessly.
I bought this 35ft fiber HDMI cable + USB over ethernet extender. I use these two in combination with display fusion to switch between the modes but if you’re just hooking up one display you wouldn’t need to mess with that!
The passmark of that cpu is about 2700. Enough to do 1 or 2 1080p transcodes. Takes something like 14k Passmark to transcode a 4k down to 720p. Its all mute, if you have a decent player, and only plan to play plex in your house. You start letting friends and family at it, and need to transcode down movies, it starts to get computationally expensive.
But throw in a video card, it can do something like 18 1080p transcodes (with hacked drivers). And yes proposed setup plus video card should last 5+ years easy.
1 catch, that board uses less common eec ram. Buffered vs unbuffered. Forget which, just, less common and more expensive.
Sorry, to clarify the mobo firmware was already running the latest. I meant the built in lsi controller that needed to be flashed using FreeDOS, I couldn't actually see anything on the screen when I was trying to boot and run the necessary commands. I ended up borrowing a VGA monitor, to get around the display issue. I am using a fan controller off Amazon. (Electop Chassis Fan Hub CPU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KNT7FW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) The dynamix system temps plug-in on unraid recognized my temps, but the built in fan control options in the UI weren't working for me. I ended up just running the fans at Max temporarily while I look for a workaround. The CPU fan speeds are being automatically controlled and the sysfan speed is set at a constant. Just gotta figure out how to adjust these either in the BIOS or whatever unRAID is running in the background.
This guy. It sold for around $60 when I bought it. Similar products pop up for around that price regularly, if you keep an eye out on Amazon. The prices seem to vary dramatically. You could also do something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0BIPYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_scKfDbAZ91ST8. Just search Amazon for 'hot swap cage' and you'll see plenty.
This subreddit may push you toward building something yourself but honestly it sounds like a Synology NAS would meet your needs very well. See here: https://www.amazon.com/Synology-DiskStation-DS920-Diskless-4-bay/dp/B087Z3N428/
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Desktop-i3-7100-Windows-TC-780-ACKi3/dp/B071DM6TWM
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getting this machine brand new for 100? will that meet all the requirements?
I couldn’t access your image.
Here’s a related link regarding your port question
Here’s a link for sata power splitting.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
There’s a few ways to go about it. One way is to use the 5.25” bay.
I use this drive cage.
You can get an additional 20tb of raw space with 4 x 15mm 5tb drives.
The one I linked is the closest to the Silverstone rl-fs204b. The highest quality one aside form icy dock.
$150ish on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Supermicro-CSE-M35TQB-SATA-Mobile-Black/dp/B00SDI32QA
$136ish on eBay - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=CSE-M35TQB
Enterprise stuff is pricey, but this is one of those things that you get what you pay for.
I had THIS gpu support bracket not being used. I zip-tied a 120mm fan to it to help cool my card and the chipset. It's worked well so far.
Cooler:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LQ39XV/
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Inland has been solid for over 8-9 months. Since October 2018!
Has run my cache and appdata for this build and last one.
Seems fine, just make sure the heatsinks fit in a 3U case. If you need a recommendation, I'm using Noctua NH-D9DX i4 in my build, which is a 3u server, nearly identical layout, but it's a Supermicro.
The heatsinks are almost too good, cause the case fans don't end up spinning fast enough to keep the hard drives cool. When plugged into the motherboard, they seem to spin down based on CPU speed, so I just hooked them to a separate controller.
Hi all. Love the NAS Killer guide, I think this build would be a great replacement for my aging Synology DS212J. Question, though: Would this build work well in the Thermaltake Core V21 case? I know that case costs more and doesn't come with a power supply, but it would fit better into the spot where I'd like to put my NAS. Thoughts?
I have that board and can confirm the option exists in the bios. I am considering this card to try for a few reasons... it's 8x form factor so it'll fit the motherboard. I'm using a 847 chassis so can only fit half height cards.
You can get expanders way cheaper.
Try something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IBM-46M0997-ServeRAID-Expansion-Adapter-16-Port-SAS-Expander-US-seller-/142748488909?txnId=1629044810004
Combined with: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085FT2JC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_rLFICbP3DFEGK
You use the LSI as the controller, and connect one of the two ports to the expander.
The Norco has a back plane that puts 4 drives on each SAS connector, needing 6 connections for all 24 bays.
1 connection to the LSI, 5 connections to the expander, 1 connection bridging the LSI and expander. 7 SFF-8087 cables total.
Cable management's a little rough, but I'm using these 1m/3ft cables. If it were an option, I'd go with slightly longer cables because everything's a bit snug, but that's more to do with my system as a whole. If you'd like I can show the inside tomorrow when it's idle.
SFF-8088 (external) cable to 4X SATA. Someone already posted images showing this looping into their computer.
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-SFF-8088-Female-Controller-Backplane/dp/B013G4EX9K/
I have a 16i card and converted 2 of the SFF-8087 internal ports into 8088 EXTERNAL ports with these brackets and a couple of 87<->87 cables.
https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-SFF-8088-SFF-8087-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B00PRXOQFA
From the external ports I then use an 88<->88 cable to connect to my SAS expander card in a case with more drives. The other external ports is used with the same 88 to 4X SATA cable when I occasionally need to rip CD/DVDs I connect it to 4 external drives sitting on the floor and an old power supply.
I was thinking of this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M2HKSN/
It only controls 3 fans but that's all I need, 2 intake an 1 exhaust. Planning on leaving the CPU fans and watercooler pumps on the motherboards CPU fan connector.
Edit: You could use more than 3 fans with this controller I suppose since the Arctic fans can daisychain.
Damn this is exactly what I am looking for!
Will likely take some finangling since I've got a slightly different setup than you (qBittorrent and NordVPN), but those other apps look amazing for not having to manually do everything.
Appreciate the help!
I get the same thing.
https://imgur.com/a/BnhGLda
Right now i have a EPS splitter because the power supply with 2 CPU rails is back it its normal server.
I am using a set of the bench test kits (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PSCW22/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=serverbuilds-20&linkId=23a1226a666cf90af3a9c91f1c0e0c7f&language=en_US) to start it and i get the same blinking green light.
I am only using the heat sink that came with it because i removed the cooler to make it easier to move around. I can re add it but my several days of troubleshooting was with it.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "CDN"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Do you know if this one would work? It's $21.75 on Amazon right now. Cooler Master Hyper RR-T4-18PK-R1
guys will the Rosewill Rack case fit these bays?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGZ42SM/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
that would be the best of both worlds, cheap and hot-swappable. Will probably have to find some used ones on eBay.
It can fit in a desktop case, but personally I'd just use a smaller rackmount case. You'll have a lot more options in the future with it.